Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Wash

Diferent Types o Dry Process or Denim Wash Md. Mizanur Rahman.

Dafodil International University. Email mizante!"diu#$mail.com Mo%ile &!"'()*"(+,

Introduction  The distressed -eans -eans that e see around everyher everyhere e under$o a ide variety variety o et as ell as dry treatments treatments to $et the desired efects. Destroyin$ denims is as much an art as it is a techni/ue. The direction in ashion ashion is  is varied across all areas particularly in denim dry process0 hether orn or torn to rin1led or pressed2 these trends can appeal to a ide ran$e o consumers. These can %e achieved %y variety o denim dry processin$ techni/ues hich are mainly dependant on physical and on chemical a%rasion o the surace dye there %y producin$ diferent diferent ash3don loo1s to the denim a%rics. 4ot spots are heavy5intense area area on thi$h or 1nee0 hich is made purposely to create used3loo1 6 on 1nee area i any his1ers lines are there0 called 1nee star.7!8

Diferent types o Dry process or Denim Wash

Whis1erin$ his1ers his1ers are one o the most important desi$n o a used loo1 $arment. The idea o his1ers is ta1en rom the orn out lines and impression patterns $enerated %y natural earin$ on hips and ront thi$h area. 9n old -eans0 a num%er o patterns can %e :ndin$ conse/uential to a%ric0 %ody shape o user or sittin$ posture. It is also 1non as ;atuch as3 Mostly ru%%er %alloons are availa%le ith diferent pattern desi$ns. ?arments are mounted on %alloons and :lled ith air to $et impressions o his1ers. ?arment is scru%%ed over pattern careully ith sand paper on en$raved pattern lines. This operation re/uires hi$h s1illed la%or and ho can handle uniormity and se/uence in his1er line. @a%ric may dama$e durin$ ru%%in$ i care is not ta1en. This method is amous or hi$h /uality and cost efectiveness.

Picture: Producing Wiskering Effect on Denim

>ometimes separate patterns are made and :Aed on %alloons to ma1e mustaches. These patterns are made o thin ru%%er sheets and electric ires or ru%%er cords and pasted on %alloons or pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to or1 in that ay %ut it is not much successul or %road lines. En$raved patterns on thic1 %oard li1e hard ru%%er sheets are idely used or his1ers impression ma1in$. This idea is very simple to dra lines on ru%%er sheets and en$rave them ith %lade. ?arment is places on sheet and

scrapped on speci:c area to dra this impression on $arment. @or its lo cost patterns0 it is most re/uently used in small industries especially here the production is not consistent to style.

Fig: Machines to produce wiskering effect

In some or1shops it is done manually ith the help o sharp ed$e rolled on :ne ood stic1s o pasted on plastic material. Beore startin$ eAecution0 placement and pattern must %e mar1ed on $arment0 this ill help operator to eAecute the pattern ri$ht to match the aesthetics o $arment.7(8

>and Blastin$ >and %lastin$ is the process o scru%%in$ of the $arment %y %loin$ hi$h3 speed air miAed ith very :ne particles o sand. This is a very successul and most idely used process or ashion articles. When the surace area o the $arment is %lasted0 hite cotton appears %eneath the %lasted area and the efect appearin$ is very similar to the orn out -eans. >and %last provides a very uniorm result0 hich cannot %e achieved ith its alternates. Its specialty is the mer$in$ efect that is %lended ith such a %eauty that it has no diference ith natural efect. 4i$h pressure o air produces a poerul %ac1ard thrust to operator so it is alays recommended to :A the $un in appropriate stands rather than placin$ it on shoulders or usin$ it ith %are hands. 9n some a%rics sand %lastin$ is not successul or it covers the characteristics o a%ric. Especially in a%rics0 hich are amous or slo% patterns it Cattens the loo1. >peci:ed areas or sand %lastin$ are ront thi$h0 %ac1 seat0 %ac1 panel near %ottom or ront panel around 1nee. >ome time ull %ody %lastin$ is also done or $ivin$ a uni/ue loo1 to a%ric. 4ot spots may %e desi$ned or more real loo1 on ront 1nees or %ac1 seat %y intense %lastin$ in these areas.7,8

Picture: Sand Blasting effects on Jeans Procedure o >and Blastin$

Individual $arment to %e processed is ta1en on a ta%le. ir compressor is started and pressure to %e maintained %eteen (  , 1$5s/.cm. ir compressor then stores air in the machine cylinder. luminum sand or silicon sand0 l*F>i9,G(0 is then ta1en in the cham%er o the %lastin$ machine. >and and compressed air are then sprayed over the $arments at speci:c points at !&3*&& an$le %y hand spray pipe.

Picture: Produce Sand Blasting effect on Jeans

>ands pass into the machine %y re$ulatin$ system.  The machine comprises a %lastin$ re$ulator and a hand re$ulator to control the amount o sand and compressed air respectively.  The an$le o sand %loin$ is very important. 4i$her the %loin$ an$le0 hi$her the adin$ efect and hi$her the ris1 o a%ric dama$e. @adin$ is done on pre3mar1ed areas. >and%lastin$ is a hazardous techni/ue and thereore0 the area should %e isolated rom other or1in$ areas. 4andlin$ o sand%lastin$ $un is ris1y thereore0 operators should use saety e/uipments li1e hand $loves0 mas1 and $on. Production5hour5$un varies rom *H  ,H $arments dependin$ upon the de$ree o adin$ or eAtent o adin$ to %e attained.

Picture: Sand-Blasting !ir "ompressor with #o$$le

 The aded $arments are cleaned %y sha1in$ manually. ter sand%lastin$0 $arments are ashed and the techni/ue is %ein$ olloed may %e normal0 %leach or %io3stone.7H8

Potassium perman$anate spray FP.P >prayG Potassium perman$anate spray is done on -eans to ta1e a %ri$ht efect on sand %last area. 9ne important thin$ a%out potassium perman$anate spray is0 this is usually a sportin$ process to increase the efect o sand %last. Potassium perman$anate solution is sprayed on %lasted area o -eans $arment ith the help o normal spray $un. This potassium perman$anate spray appears pin1 on $arment hen resh and turns to muddy %ron on dryin$. The $arment is han$ed in open to dry ater potassium perman$anate spray and hen the potassium perman$anate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready or neAt process. It is alays olloed %y

neutralization process. >odium Meta %isulphate is most commonly used neutralizer.  num%er o products are availa%le in mar1et or neutralization process li1e sodium Meta %isulate selected on the %ases o efect re/uired on %lasted area. Potassium perman$anate sprays concentrations ran$es rom .*H $m per liter to !H.&& $rams per liter dependin$ to re/uired results and a%ric types. Usually indi$o died a%rics are treated ith lo concentrations hereas Blac1 >ulur @a%ric re/uires hi$h concentrations to treat ith.

Picture: P%P effect on Jeans

Process o P.P >pray !. Potassium perman$anate spray in %est is done in speci:c spray %ooths0 here ru%%er dummies are installed or holdin$ $arments. ?arments are mounted on the dummies and air is :lled so the $arment is ull :t eAposed. >peci:c dummies are used or diferent sizes and styles0 li1e or 1ids0 mens0 trousers0 -ac1ets0 shirts etc. The %ooths are :tted ith proper air eAhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room here the chemical miAed air is usually passed throu$h the ater shoers. Potassium perman$anate is dissolved in ater and the clean air is %lon to open. >hoer ater is urther treated ith mild /uantities o neutralizer %eore addin$ to main drain. But here the potassium perman$anate spray is used in lo concentrations then there is no need to treat shoer ater. This mild potassium perman$anate miAed ater is rather useul or ater reservoirs to 1eep the ater clean and $erms ree.

Fig: Before pp spra& and after pp spra& denim

*. ?arments are mounted on air3:lled ru%%er dummies and chemical is sprayed on %lasted areas. The varia%les in spray process are as ollos Distance o spray $un to $arment Jess distance ill $ive more de:ned and sharp efect hereas distant spray ill result in more mild and mer$ed efect. Distance ran$es rom one oot to to and a hal eet.

ir to ater ratio o $un This is to %e set very careully. Jo air pressure possi%ly ill throu$h KMn9, drops on $arment resultin$ in %ri$ht hite spots hereas hi$h pressure ill produce very lo %ri$ht efect spray efect to areas here it is not re/uired. Potassium Perman$anate >olution ;oncentration This ill control the eAtent o %ri$htness.7"8 Potassium Perman$anate >pon$in$5 Brushin$

PP >pray is %ein$ done on denim $arments to achieve local a%raded area to appear hiter than %ac1 $round indi$o color shade. This can %e applied %y spon$es dipped in to PP >olution 6 ru%%ed on desired area olloed %y neutralization in et process. This process can %e done in ri$id ater doin$ hand scrape or in the middle o the ash. Doin$ ater enzyme or %leach cycle ill $ive more natural 6 hite efect that doin$ in ri$id. There are many additives can %e added in order to achieve desired intensity and loo1.7'8 In usual0 it is done ith re$ular paint %rushes or the %rushes are modi:ed %y cuttin$ hairs in diferent shapes to produce ne styles. Rather toels0 spon$es0 stra %unches or other o%-ects are also used to create efects. What it is seen0 is that most mer$in$ and %eautiul efects are created ith toel. Toel dipped in solution are dran over the $arment very li$htly. This produces random efect and loo1s $reat ith dar1 ashes in contrast.7+8  This process is very complicated 6 needs hi$hly s1illed operators to eAecute it olloed %y immediate neutralization.

Picture: P%P effects on Jeans Procedure o P.P >pon$in$5 Brushin$

Prepare Potassium Perman$anate solution.FP.P *&L0ater +&LG.  Ta1e the solution in a tray or %ol.  Ta1e a ru%%er %oard.  Then ta1e a -eans trouser 6 place the ru%%er %oard inside the le$ panel o the trouser. o place the trouser ith ru%%er %oard on a Cat ta%le 6 spon$ed or ru%%ed P.P on apparel surace.  Then color ill aded. ter this process et process essential Fdeter$ent5%leach5enzyme ashG. Destroyed Denim

9ne o the most popular distressin$ efects currently 0 NDestruction is an art hich ma1e denim loo1 uni/ue 6 used. To ma1e destruction pen type o stone tools %ein$ used in mid o  ash process to apply on desired area. It can also %e achieved %y cuttin$ it thru 1nie the arp yarns 6 1eep the et yarn as is to sho hite thread. 4oles also can %e made %y cuttin$ et 6 arp yarns. These are all manual processes 6 every $arment ill loo1 uni/ue 6 diferent than others.7)8

Diferent types o machine used or destroy the $arments. >uch as

?rindin$ Machine. Emery ;loth. 4ac1sa Blade. eedle. Knie etc.

Picture: Destro&ed Jeans

Process o Destroyed Denim We can ma1e holes in -eans %y overdoin$ diferent methods. The tric1 is to ma1e the holes loo1 natural. ?rind aay at the a%ric sloly. Try not to localize the orn area0 spread it ith diminishin$ ear the urther e $et rom the intended hole.

Picture: Process of Destro&ed Jeans

 The area around the hole should %e orn out as ell as %leached to urther %lend the hole ith the surroundin$ a%ric. O@inishO the ed$es ith a pumice stone or sandpaper dampened in %leach. lso dampenin$ a spon$e ith %leach and applyin$ it to the outer ed$es o the hole ill add to the natural orn loo1. Ripped -eans are a %it diferent. The rip is not necessarily rom ear0 and should not loo1 the same as a orn out hole. It is important that hat types o loo1 e ant to see on our denim. It is recommend to use a sharp poc1et 1nie. Be careul0 they are very sharp. Ru% the %lade o the 1nie perpendicular to the line o the rip that e ant. ;ontinue until e create a slit0 and then ray the ed$es0 eAposin$ the threads that are perpendicular to the rip. Do this until the hole is the size that e ant and the ed$es are uzzy.  ash and a dry ill urther mess up the ed$e. To some eAtent this ill control urther rayin$.  To reinorce this nely created hole0 turn your pants inside out and place an ade/uately cut piece o a%ric around it and se it. n iron on ill or1 as ell0 %ut the stitchin$0 done either %y hand or ith a sein$ machine0 ill ma1e it loo1 much %etter. It is preerred that not too many holes0 ( to H should %e enou$h. The current trend0 hoever0 seems to %e or smaller holes.7!&8  The scope o denim dry process is very %road. 9nly innovative products ill %e a%le to open up ne mar1ets and ne horizons or denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in urther research and development. ?lo%alization has opened the door to competition at the hi$hest level. Every

industry should no produce products that are %est in terms o /uality and price. ;ustomers today have a ide ran$e o choices and the one ho produces the %est /uality at a hi$h competitive price ill survive and prosper. Reerences

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