Delawarr 9 Complete

Delawarr 9 Complete Posted on November 2, 2011 by josephmax

After much burning of midnight oil, my recreation/upgrading of the classic Delawarr 9 radionics box is complete. The device is based on the original Delawarr unit, a example of which can be found on the Bakken Museum website. Kudos to the Bakken for publishing the photos of the exterior and interior of the device. And my thanks to Peter at Intuitive Earth for information on operation of the unit, and to Tigrincs in Hungary who provided me with an operation manual for Delawarr equipment.

Interior of the Delawarr 9 Delawarr devices seem to be basic resistance-based systems, with an interesting feature – rotating magnets. The photo from the Bakken collection shows a short

rotating shaft extending a few inches down from the top panel, mounted directly behind the first tuning dial in the series. It puzzeld me at first as to what the shaft was for – I wondered if there was a missing part. But I learned that the shaft is magnetized, and it is an integral part of the design. It happens that I had a solid rod magnet I had purchased some time ago just out of curiosity, and with the feeling I would use it in some device someday. The rod is interesting as it is magnetized at right angles instead of lengthwise – in other words, the instead of the N and S poles being at the ends, one side of the rod is N and the other is S.

Original Delwarr device interior So I cut off a short piece of the longer magnet rod, and mounted it on the rotating shaft (I cannibalized a dual-ganged potentiometer to make the rotator). In that configuration it generates a magnetic field polarized in lines parallel to the earth, which can be rotated to any angle in relation to the planetary magnetic field. It’s quite powerful and will upset a compass held within a hand’s length to the box. You can see the rotating shaft in the upper right corner of the two photos here. On the top, the turning knob is mounted to a dial plate with a compass face. I adjusted the the knob so that when it points to the N, the magnet is oriented to the dial. Peter pointed out to me that the placement of the magnet behind the first dial is necessary for proper operation. The rotating magnet becomes a tuning device, as the instrument is powered with magnetism (I’m curious if rapidly spinning the dial will “neutralize” the machine after use. This will require some experimentation.) The manual describes setting the dials

to specific rate numbers for a given target (the manual comes with an atlas of rates) and turning the magnet dial to tune while rubbing the stick pad. I followed the wiring pattern exactly, although I added one new circuit path and feature – a ground plane. In the original, only the center tap and one side of the potentiometers were connected (making them functionally rheostats.) So I connected the other taps together as the “ground buss” (as common with most

resistance-type devices today.) On the bottom panel of my Delawarr 9 is a solid brass plate, and the grounds are all connected to that. I also added ground posts to the connectors (the original had only single-side instead of plus and minus connections), moved the connector that originally was in the front panel to the other side of the box (it just seemed more convenient and looked cleaner.) This allows me to interface the D-9 with my existing external stick pads, probes and tuners. I also put a single grounding connector on the back panel, which can connect the ground plane to the earth if desired.

Top panel with compass dial and witness holder The top panel of the original had the magnetic control dial and a single, solid metal plate, which was the witness “well”. I decided to try something to make it easier to work with photos, sigils, talismans and such – a solid brass container that is meant to hold business cards, but provides a place to hold flat objects securely inside. So a trend witness can be left in the container without fear of it being knocked or blown off the top of the box. Or a vial can be placed right on top of the closed lid, which is still electrically connected.

The box is plain wood with a Bakelite front panel. The pots are all 10k ohm (as in the original) except for the first dial, which is 100k, and it’s dial plate is calibrated from 0-100 instead of 0-10. Peter explained to me that the original

device was considered to be a kind of “axillary” to the full Delawarr diagnotic and treatment device. The practitioner would use the larger system to analyze the subject, and then use the smaller device (with no stick pad or fine tuning dial of it’s own) for treatment and manifestation, using the dial settings developed on the bigger analyzer. So, I tried connecting my external stick pad unit to it, along with the AX-1000 tuner, and with those additions it makes it into the full Delawarr analyzer system. The larger instruments (which were either 9 or 12 dial circuits) had a final tuning dial calibrated 0-100. This was also used to fine tune the Rates by using the stick pad. I ran the usual system check using my own witness sample and seeing if I could pick up a stick reaction. And I did quickly and easily! In my first trials I found that I got a reaction with no witness when I turned the magnet control dial until the knob pointed to magnetic north. This happened accurately even when I had my eyes closed, so this is a very powerful and sensitive device. (George and Marjorie Delawarr deserve their reputations!) It seems to me that aside from operating it according to the historical manner described in the operator’s manual (which includes four tutorial lessons), it might make one very powerful manifestation machine. I’m not aware of any other new radionic devices being made today that use magnets the way Delawarr did, except for perhaps the Gateway Research AR series of instruments. Here’s a description of the circuit from the Intuitive Earth website: It is essentially a magnetic circuit, beginning with the witness plate mounted on top, or an optional input socket. The subject’s vibrations are drawn into the North pole of a rod magnet which can be rotated, via a knob, 360 degrees upon its axis to mesh with the prevailing energy fields. The circuit then continues out of the CENTER of the magnet (Bloch wall), through nine potentiometers wired in parallel, and back to the plate, or the output socket. The latter also accepts an plug-in stick pad.

Here are some more photos of the finished device, along with the front panel of the original for comparison.

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My Three-Dial Radionics Machine Posted on January 4, 2011by josephmax

I’ve just completed work on a new device: a three-dial, two-plate “Cosimano”-style resistance-tuned machine. I’ve wanted a small, portable “black box” device like this, but was reluctant because three-dial boxes usually have very small stick pads and witness plates. I prefer a stick pad at least 3×3 inches and a witness plate big enough to place a small photograph on it without it sticking over the edges. But a sudden flash of inspiration while looking at a small bass guitar amp-head led me to come up with a way to do it, by thinking in “three-dimensions.”

The components for the box Instead of putting everything on the top panel of the box, I realized I could mount the three tuning dials on the front-facing surface of the box (like a guitar amp), leaving the entire top surface available for the plates. The top is about 61/2 by 4-1/2 inches, plenty of space for plates. The box is made of bakelite (phenolic resin) which was a rare find – most electronic “project boxes” are made of ABS plastic, and I’ve always been wary of plastics for radionics work – I try to stay away from plastic cases for my machines. I prefer wooden cases, but if Dr. Hieronymus is to be believed, bakelite has much the same properties as wood when it comes to working with eloptic energy.

Dials, plugs and crystals mounted in the case, ready for wiring It’s a pretty simple device, however I’ve added a few extra modifications. The basic design is a passive circuit, but I wanted it to have a “amplifier”, so I used a block of orgonite and a crystal I had lying around the shop and devised an

“orgone power amp” to use instead of an electronic gain stage circuit. Conceptually, it should work, and I could sense it generating live orgone as strongly as any of my orgone wands. Any eloptic energy passing through the coil should get a boost from the scalar field radiating from the orgonite/crystal core.

Crystal/organite amplifier I took the block of orgonite, and wrapped 24-turns (my machines all have coils wound in multiples of eight) of insulated magnet wire around the block, leaving lots of extra wire “tails”, then mounted it to a small, crystal mirror with beveled edges (makes the mirror a circular prism). I wrapped the base of a small quartz crystal with a strip of brass (conductive metal) to make a collar, and held it in place with cyanoacrylate glue, making sure the metal was in contact with the quartz. Then I carefully glued the inside of the collar to the top of the orgonite, making sure the metal edge was in contact with it. So, the “circuit” is: mirror– >orgonite–>metal bezel–>quartz crystal, which makes for a good orgone “Holy Hand Grenade” type device. The coil wires are used to connect it into the output of the tuning circuit, between the last tuning dial and the stick-pad/output.

Final assembly Each tuning dial is a precision, sealed 10k ohm potentiometer. I found some metal dial plates with 0-100 increments to give the dials a very professional look, which is a much more accurate scale than knobs with numbers on them. (And I didn’t have to deal with decals for the numbering.) The stick pad is an eight-turn bifilar coil of magnet wire sandwiched between a layer of vinyl (vinyl plastic is a known insulator of eloptic energy) and a touch-pad of bakelite. The witness plate is a solid brass plate, a layer of bakelite, and another layer of brass, which is connected to the wires, which then pass through small holes in the top. The leads are long enough to open the box and rest the top on the bench, so I wrapped the wires with heat-shrink tubing and put a dab of silicon goop over the holes to reinforce the wires – magnet wire can break easily if it’s flexed too much. A double-terminated quartz crystal with eight turns of wire is in the circuit between each pot to increase the tuning sensitivity (a total of three). The witness and stick plates are paralleled to the input and output connections, so I can plug in hand contact grips, conductive wrist bands, or an external witness well. I can also inject audio or RF signals into the device. To the outputs I can attach probes, antennas, or feed into an external amplifier for improved broadcasting power. I decided run all the wiring to a terminal block, in order to keep it neat and make the wiring more solid than is possible when soldering everything directly point-to-point. I also added a grounding post to the back panel. The screw-on wire connections on the terminal block also allow me to make easy

modifications later. I might add an active electronic VHF amplifier in the future – there’s still lots of room left inside the case.

The finished 3-Dial Black Box The whole project took me two days, once I had all the parts gathered. I’d imagine this is basically the same device as the 3-dial black boxes sold on various websites and on eBay, (like here) but with the unique crystal-orgonite amplifier. I figure I spent less than $100US on it in parts, but all of the parts are the finest available. In both magick and technology (and in magickal technology) I believe that good materials and craftsmanship make for better results. The bakelite enclosure and stick pad, brass witness plate, high quality pots, clear crystals, terminal mount wiring, not to mention the orgone amplifier, make this 3-Dial Black Box as good or better a quality device than ones I’ve seen for sale on the internet for much more money –like this, and this, and this. (Don’t get me started…) So now, I’ll do some experiments with the new machine and see what happens! Update: I got good stick and pendulum reactions from the device using my own hair as the witness. So far so good! Update 2: In response to a request in the comments, here’s the schematic diagram:

http://josephmax.wordpress.com/2011/01/04/my-three-dial-radionicsmachine/

Radionics Schematic: Super Simple Three Dial July 11th, 2012 |

Author: Sorynzar

Presented here for your delectation is a super simple three dial radionics schematic. There is no techno jargon, or standard schematic imagery. The circuit is simple as shown. The black lines represent wires, and their connections. The bottom row of wiring simply shows that the last post on each potentiometer is connected to the last post on the next. This type of circuit is also known within radionics as a passive resistance circuit. There are no coils, crystals, or amplifiers within this circuit, but that does not detract from its raw power. Generally, this circuit can be used to copy homeopathic remedies, or for imbuing a witnesses sample with a particular trend. For the latter, the witness sample would be placed on the output, and the trend would be placed on the input. The trend could take the form of a remedy, written or pictorial intention, etc. For use in agricultural radionics for instance; fertilizer, or pesticides could be placed on the input plate, and their rates dowsed for with a pendulum. What you will need: 

Two copper discs, or copper sheets. Copper is not necessary, but it by far the best candidate for our purpose. If you are struggling to find copper, you can use brass, aluminium, or stainless steel as a last resort. If you are extremely lucky, you can even use gold, or silver sheet!

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Three potentiometers. These are “10K linear potentiometers” run an internet search, or look on places like ebay for these components. Failing that try your local electronics supplier such as Maplins, or Radio Shack.

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You will need a length of wire to wire up the potentiometer. Some researchers use solid clear enameled copper wire, but I find regular bell wire or equipment wire works just as well. Again, you can get some regular stranded single core wire from hardware stores or online. You will probably need less than a meter for this, but just to be on the safe side, and to have some surplus for a future project, get hold of a meter, or several feet worth.

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You will also need something for stripping the wire; a pair of wire cutters can be used once you get the hang of it, or a craft knife.

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In order to connect the wires to the potentiometers, you will need to Solder. For a beginner with no electronics experience, this is often a stumbling block. You can get hold of cheap soldering irons on the internet. You will only need something rated at 25-30W. Get yourself a book on soldering for beginners, and a reel of silver based solder. It really is quite easy to do, and once you learn this new skill you can use it for future projects.If this still puts you off, there is a product called “Wire glue” which will literally allow you to glue the wires to the potentiometers and plates. Failing that you could use some electrical tape. I wouldn’t advocate this, but it is possible as a last resort.

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You will also need some type of box to mount everything in. Charles Cossimano suggests a shoe box. This can work well if you are on a budget. Personally, I use wooden boxes where possible. However, if you really have to, an ABS plastic box will work o.k.

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In order to mount the potentiometers. You will require a drill, and selection of drill bits.

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Finally; x4 bolts x8 washers, and at least four nuts. To top this off three potentiometer dials. Again, these are available from places such as Ebay, and Radio Shack, etc.

Once you have all your components you can begin to build to the above diagram. You should have chosen an enclosure/box which will allow you enough room to mount everything on one surface, usually the top. If it doesn’t, not to worry; some people will mount the plates on the top surface, and the dials on one of the sides to make more room. It’s quite simple from here on in. Use your intuition, and build an instrument which you find visually and aesthetically appealing, as this will increase its potential. You are imbuing the device with your own power, use it wisely. This information is free to copy and distribute. All I ask as my copyright condition is that you attribute the work back to BerkanaPath.com. These posts and diagrams take a great amount of work, and it is saddening when people abuse the work of others. This is why I am being forced to watermark all of my intellectual properties. Thank you for understanding. http://www.berkanapath.com/radionics/category/radionics/radionicsschematics/