Cutting Room

Cutting Room

costs The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing costs than any other department concerned with the actual production of garments.  Internal costs  – those incurred in the cutting room itself.  External costs  – those incurred by other departments as a result of the malfunctions m alfunctions of the cutting room.

costs The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing costs than any other department concerned with the actual production of garments.  Internal costs  – those incurred in the cutting room itself.  External costs  – those incurred by other departments as a result of the malfunctions m alfunctions of the cutting room.

Internal costs 

Labour : ffective utilisation utilisation



!aterial : "#$ to %#$ of the cost price of most of the mass m ass produced clothing and largest cost component of a garment



fficiency

&attern accuracy

!ar'er waste

(preading waste

The factors influencing materials untilisation

xternal costs Coordination  )efects  !atching  *ccuracy  (ewing  (hading  +uality 

&roduction &rocess in the Cutting room &lanning  (preading  Cutting  &reparation for sewing 

&roduction process in the Cutting Room (preads &lanning

!ar'ers &roduction !anual

(preading

!achine !achine

Cutting

)ie &ress Computer  (hade mar'ing

&reparation  for sewing

Tic'eting ,undles

Cut order planning It translates customer orders into cutting orders.  It is the process that coordinates customer orders with all the variables of mar'er ma'ing- spreading- and cutting to minimie total production costs and meet customer demand for timely products.  It see's most effective use of labore/uipment- fabric and space. 

Responsibilities of Cut 0rder &lanning 











xamining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability )etermining volume- sie ratios- and sectioning procedures for mar'er ma'ing )etermining whether file mar'ers are available or new ones are needed )eveloping specifications for optimum mar'er ma'ing and fabric utiliation )etermine most effective use of spreading and cutting e/uipment and personnel Issuing orders for mar'er ma'ing- spreading and cutting

!ost common considerations            

1umber of sies in order  1umber of colors in order  !ax2min number of sies allowed in mar'er  !aximum spread length !aximum ply height &ercentage of overcut or undercut units 3abric cost per yard 4sable cloth width 5idth variation Common lines among pattern pieces Costs of mar'ing mar'ers- spreading- cutting- bundling 3abric roll change time

Results of Cut 0rder &lanning

Cutting 0rders  Leads to

!ar'er planning

Lay planning

!ar'er planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sies and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and e/uipment utiliation  Lay is a stac' of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting  Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space 

!ar'er !a'ing 



Marker  is a diagram of a precise arrangement of

pattern pieces for a specific style and the sies to be cut from a single spread. Marker Making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style- fabric- and distribution of sies 6re/uires time- s'ill and concentration7

!ar'er !a'ing

!anually produced

Computeried mar'er ma'ing

)imensions of mar'er   



!ar'ers are made to fit the cuttable widths of fabrics. Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style in one or two sies. Continuous markers contain all the pattern pieces for all sies included in a single cutting. Splice marks are points in mar'er where fabric can be cut and the next piece overlapped to maintain a continuous spread. They are planned in continuous mar'er.

Types of !ar'ers 0pen mar'er – !ar'er made with full pattern pieces Closed !ar'er – mar'er made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube 6tubular 'nit7

!ar'er !odes Is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric. 1ap either way 612257  1ap one way 6120257  1ap up and down 61242)7 

The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional. N/E/ –with symmetric- non directional fabrics- pattern pieces can be placed on a mar'er with only consideration for grainline N/!/ – all the pattern pieces be placed on a mar'er in only one direction N/"/# – all patterns pieces of one sie to be placed in one direction and another sie placed in opposite direction. eg. corduroy

Re/uirements of mar'er planning 8. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment



 

&attern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric (ymmetry and asymmetry The design characteristic of the finished garment

$% The re&uirements of &ualit' cutting (% The re&uirements of production planning

!ar'er fficiency  *rea of patterns in the mar'er plan 9 8##$ Total area of the mar'er plan 

It is determined by fabric utiliation



!inimum waste

3actors effecting mar'er efficiency 3abric characteristics  Characteristics of &attern pieces splitting pattern pieces and creating a seam reducing seam allowances- hemwidth- adusting and modifying grainline- etc  ;rain 0rientation  3abric utiliation standards – %$ achievement 

&lotting The process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or mar'ers on paper so they can be reviewed or cut.

)uplications of mar'er  

Carbon duplicating – small no. of copies only

are made 6@–>7 



Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon s'stem – uses alcohol and it is a messy process

many copies can be produced #ia)o photographic method – the master mar'er and light sensitive paper passes under high intensity ultra violet light and the light sensitive paper is developed using amonia

Spreading Spreading is the processes of

superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process  * spread or la'*up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single mar'er .

(preading mode (preading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting  )irection of the fabric: it may be positioned in two ways face?to?face 63237 or with all plies facing?one?way 6320257  )irection of the 3abric 1ap: it may be positioned nap?one?way 6120257 or nap? up?down 

(preading modes 32025 12025 323 12025

323 1242) 32025 1242)

Re/uirements of (preading process (hade sorting of cloth pieces  Correct ply direction and ade/uate lay stability   *llignment of plies  Correct ply tension  limination of fabric faults  limination of static electricity   *voidance of distortion in the spread   *voidance of fusion of plies during cutting 

(etup for spreading Aerifying cutting orders  &ositioning materials  &reparing cutting tables  &reparing machines  Loading machine Reloading and delay time may use upto =#$ of the time re/uired for the entire spreading operation. 

!ethods of spreading (preading by hand  (preading using a travelling machine 68## to 8%# yards per minute7 

3abric control devices 







Tensioning involves synchroniing the rate of spreading with the rate fabric is unrolled &ositioning devices and sensors monitor position and control fabric placement during spreading. 6to improve /uality in spreading7 5idth indicators may sound an alarm to alert the operator when fabric becomes narrower wthan the established width nd treatment device are used with spreaders but are separate and placed at the end of the spread 6end catcher and folding blade7

The nature of fabric pac'ages 0pen fabric – rolled  Tubular 'nitted fabric – rolled  3olded fabric – rolled  3olded fabric – cuttled  Aelvet ? hanging 

(preading costs  

Labour cost 3abric 5aste (plicing loss occurs with excessive overlap at splice mar's  nd loss occurs when the spreader reaches the end of the mar'er and fabric must be cut from the roll or folded bac' for the return lap  5idth loss occurs when the fabric is wider than the mar'er and the extra fabric is not used 



/uipment purchase

Cut order plan 

Cutting room manager issues lays to satisfy two re/uirements: The targets given in the cutting schedule  The most economic batch sie 6economic cut /uantity7 

0verview of economic cut /uantity factors. 5idth of fabric

1umber of sies

!ar'er Type Contract details

!*RBR 4TILI(*TI01

ssential laying losses

3abric &roperties C010!IC C4T +4*1TITI(

+uality constraints /uipment constraints

Labour costs !aterial availability

(ewing room needs

&roduction rates

)elivery deadlines

)isruptions C4(T0!R R+4IR!1T(

Cutting plan example 8 

The contract details are as follows (ie 8# 8 8" 8@ 8>  +uantity "# # % % The constraints on lay dimensions are: !aximum lay height D %# plies !aximum lay length D " garments mar'ed The limit of four garments mar'ed may seem rather contrived but it allows the concepts to be explained more easily 



It is useful to determine the theoretical minimum number of lays re/uired to cut the contract:

!ax no of gmts per lay is "9%#D##gmts  The no. of gmts re/uired D "#E#E%E% D@# gmts There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays D @#2## D 8.F This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the contract – the best that is possible 

Lay 8 Lay  The contract details (ie +uantity

8# "#

8 %

Cutting plan example  

The contract details are follows (ie 8 8" 8@ 8>  +uantity 8## 8@# 8# @# the constraints on lay dimensions are: !aximum lay height D @# plies !aximum lay length D " garments mar'ed 



Theoretical minimum no. of lays re/uired are:

!ax no of garments per lay is "9@#D"# gmts The no. of garments re/uired D 8##E8@#E8#E@# D ""# garments There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays D ""#2"# D 8.>F This gives a practical minimum of two lays to cut the contract. Lay 8

8@

8@

8"

8>

Lay 8? @# plies

Lay 

8

8

8"

8"

Lay  – %# plies

Cutting plan example F The contract details are follows (ie ( ! +uantity F## @## "##

L

the constraints on lay dimensions are: !aximum lay height D =% plies !aximum lay length D % garments mar'ed

Theoretical minimum no. of lays re/uired are: !ax no of garments per lay is %9=% D F=% gmts The no. of garments re/uired D F##E@##E"## D 8F## garments There fore the theoretical minimum no. of lays D 8F##2F=% D F."= This gives a practical minimum of four lays to cut the contract. (

(

(

(

(

Lay 8? @# plies

!

!

!

L

L

Lay  ? =% plies

!

!

!

L

L

Lay F ? =% plies

!

!

!

L

L

Lay " ? %# plies

C0(TI1; 03 C4T 0R)R &L*1  – !*TRI*L C0(T( 6 xample "7 

Gou have received the following contract: +uantity 8## (ie  +uantity 8 (ingle gmt mar'er lengths 6m7 : .@

*

,

C

)

 .#

" .

 ."

8 .%

0ther relevent information nd allowance F cm per ply !aximum number of plies 8## !aximum lay length 8# meters Cost of the fabric is FH Cloth saving on multi?sie or multi?garment mar'er is %$

8. )etermine targets: Theoretical minimum no. 0f lays is a little more complicated as the maximum no. of garments must be inferred. (ince the average length is about .F m per garment- the maximum number mar'ed will be " Theoretical minimum no. of lays D 8##2"98## DF (ince /uantities are not in multiples of 8## three lays is an impossibility conse/uently- the target must be four lays . Consider options F. !a'e decision

 *

 *





Lay 8? @# plies

,

C

C

)

Lay ? ># plies

,

C

,

C

C C

) )

Lay F ? ># plies Lay " ? ># plies