crochet

This pattern uses front post double crochet (fpdc) as well as back post double crochet (bpdc) There are several good tutorials online of how to complete these stiches, as well as Youtube videos that will walk you through them. It is expected that you know these stitches and are comfortable with them before beginning the pattern.

Items Needed: 150 yards WW yarn (more yardage will be needed for a longer hat) J hook for body H hook for ribbing Gauge:3 dc with J hook=1" Height isn't important because you can just add on rounds To join each round: join with slip stitch around the first front post double crochet of previous round (or beginning ch 2 of the first round), ch 2, then fpdc down into the same front post double crochet you just did the slip stitch to (again, this will be a ch 2 for the beginning round). This pushes the ch 2 behind the fpdc you just made (ignore the ch 2, it doesn't exist). This isn't necessary, but it looks better than a standard ch2 and makes the join less obvious.

With J hook 1. 15 dc in Adjustable Ring

2. Fpdc in every dc (15) 3. Fpdc in every fpdc, dc in the space between fpdcs (15 fpdc, 15 dc) 4. Fpdc in every fpdc, dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 dc) 5. Fpdc in every fpdc, 2 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 2dc) 6. Fpdc in every fpdc, 2 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 2dc) 7. Fpdc in every fpdc, 3 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 3dc) 8. Fpdc in every fpdc, 3 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 3dc) 9. Fpdc in every fpdc, 3 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 3dc) 10. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 4dc) 11. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 4dc) 12. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 4dc) 13. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 4dc) 14. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 4dc) 15. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 4dc) 16. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (15 fpdc, 15 4dc)

Switch to H hook 17. Sc around (75) 18. Dc Around (75 sts) 19. Fpdc in one st, bpdc in the next, around (75 sts) 20. Fpdc in one st, bpdc in the next, around (75 sts) 21. Fpdc in one st, bpdc in the next, around (75 sts)

Preemie Version 4.5" tall and 5" across the base (note: that is the measurement while laying flat, not the circumfrence!)

This preemie version pattern was created by Donnetta Johnson (Ravelry id: smileynetta) I love this version, it's just like a miniature of the original! Thanks for the pattern Donnetta, and for letting me post it here! Small amount of Sport Weight yarn G hook for body F hook for ribbing

Note: To join each round: join with slip stitch around the first front post double crochet of previous round (or beginning ch 2 of the first round), ch 2, then fpdc down into the same front post double crochet you just did the slip stitch to (again, this will be a ch 2 for the beginning round). This pushes the ch 2 behind the fpdc you just made (ignore the ch 2, it doesn't exist). This isn't necessary, but it looks better than a standard ch2 and makes the join less obvious. With G Hook 1. 12 dc in Adjustable Ring 2. Fpdc in every dc, dc in the space between dc's (12 fpdc, 12 dc) 3. Fpdc in every fpdc, 2 dc in the space between fpdc and dc (12 fpdc, 24 dc) 4. Fpdc in every fpdc, 2 dc in the space between fpdc and dc (12 fpdc, 24 dc) 5-13. Fpdc in every fpdc, 3 dc in the space between fpdc and dc (12 fpdc, 36 dc) Switch to F Hook 14. sc around (48 sts) 15. dc around (48 dc) 16. (fpdc, bpdc) around (48 sts) Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

Infant Version (11.25 inches around inside circumference, unstreched) A big thanks to Kelly Gilman (Ravelry id: fairieknits) for these instructions, and for allowing me to post them here! Less than 3 oz. of Worsted Weight yarn I hook for body G hook for ribbing

Note: To join each round: join with slip stitch around the first front post double crochet of previous round (or beginning ch 2 of the first round), ch 2, then fpdc down into the same front post double crochet you just did the slip stitch to (again, this will be a ch 2 for the beginning round). This pushes the ch 2 behind the fpdc you just made (ignore the ch 2, it doesn't exist). This isn't necessary, but it looks better than a standard ch2 and makes the join less obvious. With I Hook 1. 10 dc in Adjustable Ring 2. Fpdc in every dc (10) 3. Fpdc in every fpdc, dc in the space between fpdcs (10 fpdc, 10 dc) 4. Fpdc in every fpdc, 2 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (10 fpdc, 10 2dc) 5. Fpdc in every fpdc, 2 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (10 fpdc, 10 2dc) 6. Fpdc in every fpdc, 3 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (10 fpdc, 10 3dc) 7. Fpdc in every fpdc, 3 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (10 fpdc, 10 3dc) 8. Fpdc in every fpdc, 3 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (10 fpdc, 10 3dc) 9. - 13. Fpdc in every fpdc, 4 dc in the first space between fpdc and dc (10 fpdc, 10 4dc) Switch to G Hook

14. Sc around (50) 15. - 17. Fpdc in one st, bpdc in the next, around (50 sts) Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

This is not a beginner's pattern. This pattern uses front post double and treble crochet (fpdc and fptr) as well as back post double crochet (bpdc) There are several high quality tutorials online of how to complete these stiches, as well as Youtube videos that will walk you through them. It is expected that you know these stitches and are comfortable with them before beginning the pattern.

Items Needed: 4 oz. of Worsted Weight yarn H and J Hooks or hooks needed to obtain gauge!

Gauge: (With J hook) 4 fpdc across for 3 rows should measure 1" wide and high Size: Two sizes: Smaller - Heads sized 18-22" (Larger - Heads sized 21-26" in parenthesis)

Cable next 2 fpdc (from row 4) explained below:

fpdc in second fpdc from hook (stitch "2"):

fpdc in skipped fpdc (stitch "1"):

The next row after a cable row is important too, if the stitches aren't crocheted in the right order they can become un-cabled. Below shows the order to crochet in the cabled stitches from round 4 (so this is how you should fpdc the next 2 fpdc in round 5): There will be two stitches in the cable, one going under and one going over, fpdc first in the stitch that passes under the other (the one going from left to right):

Next fpdc in the stitch that passes over the other (the one going from right to left):

Cable next 4 fpdc (from row 7 and onwards) explained below: fptr in third fpdc from hook (stitch "3"):

fptr in next fpdc (stitch "4"):

fptr in first skipped fpdc (stitch "1"):

fptr in next fpdc (stitch "2"):

The next row after a cable row is important too, if the stitches aren't crocheted in the right order they can become un-cabled. Below shows the order to crochet in the cabled stitches from round 7 and onward (so this is how you should fpdc the next 4 fpdc in round 8 and all other rounds after a cable round): There will be four stitches in the cable, two going under and two going over, fpdc in the first stitch that passes under the other two (stitch "1"):

Next fpdc in the second stitch that passes under the other two (stitch "2"):

Next fpdc in the first stitch that passes over the other two (stitch "3"):

Lastly fpdc in the second stitch that passes over the other two (stitch "4"):

Note: Every round in the pattern (with the exception of the brim) starts with 2 fpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip, ch 2, then fpdc down into the fpdc you slipped to (overtop of the ch 2, ignore the ch 2 from now on, like it doesn't exist). So for example each round would start with slip, ch 2, fpdc down into previous fpdc you slipped in, then fpdc in next fpdc. You'd then continue each row as it's written

With J Hook 1. 14 (16) dc in Adjustable Ring 2. 2 fpdc in every dc: 28(32) stitches 3. *fpdc in next 2 fpdcs, dc in space between the 2nd fpdc and the next* around: 42(48) stitches 4. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in dc, cable next 2 fpdc (fpdc in second fpdc from hook, fpdc in skipped fpdc), bpdc in dc* around : 42(48) stitches 5. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc* around: 42(48) stitches 6. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, 2 fpdc in each of next 2 fpdc (4 fpdc total), bpdc in bpdc* around: 56(64) stitches 7. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, cable next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc,

fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in bpdc* around: 56(64) stitches 8. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fptr, bpdc in bpdc*, around: 56(64) stitches 9. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, dc in space between bpdc and next fpdc, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, dc in space between bpdc and next fpdc* around: 70(80) stitches 10. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in bpdc, bpdc in dc, cable over next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc, fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in bpdc, bpdc in dc* around: 70(80) stitches 11. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fptr, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around: 70(80) stitches 12. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around: 70(80) stitches Repeat rounds 10-12 until 1" shorter than desired length Switch to H Hook

Note: Every round in the brim starts with a bpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip and ch 2, this ch 2 counts as the first bpdc, then fpdc in the next stitch. You'd then continue the row as it's written.

1-5. bpdc, fpdc around: 70(80) stitches Fasten off yarn and weave in ends. Baby Version A big thanks to diva27406 at diva27406.blogspot.com for these instructions, and for allowing me to post them here! 3 oz. of Worsted Weight yarn Use the same hooks needed to get the gauge above.

Note: Every round in the pattern (with the exception of the brim) starts with 2 fpdc, when joining this means you need to: slip, ch 2, then fpdc down into the fpdc you slipped to (overtop of the ch 2). So for example each round would start with slip, ch 2, fpdc down into previous fpdc you slipped in, then fpdc in next fpdc. You'd then continue each row as it's written

With H Hook 1. 12 dc in Adjustable Ring 2. 2 fpdc in every dc (24) 3. *fpdc in next 2 fpdcs, 2 dc in space between the 2nd fpdc and the next, fpdc in next 4 fpdcs, 2 dc in space between the 4th fpdc and the next* around (40) 4. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 dcs, cable next 4 fpdc (fptr in 3rd fpdc from hook, fptr in 4th fpdc from hook, fptr in 1st skipped fpdc, fptr in 2nd skipped fpdc), bpdc in in next two dc* around (40) 5. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs* around (40) 6. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs, fpdc in next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs* around (40) 7. *fpdc in next 2 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdcs, cable next 4 fpdc, bpdc in next 2 bpdc* around (40) Repeat rounds 5-7 until 1/2" shorter than desired length Switch to Smaller Hook 1-3. bpdc, fpdc around (40) Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.