Copy the Armscye

Copy the

 Arm  Armscye Salvage a crucial curve after altering the pattern BY LINDA LEE

Learn to copy pattern curves and reapply them

after pattern adjustments. It’s an easy way to simplify  pattern alterations. alterations.

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ltering one part of a pattern often has repercussions else where, especially when working around armscye curves.  With one small pattern adjustment, the sleeve may no longer fit into its armscye. An easy way around this is to preserve the shapes by tracing the armscye curves before making adjustments. Once the alteration is made, reapply the traced armscye and true the seams to compensate for the change. Since the curves’ dimensions are the same, the sleeve and armscye still match. Get started with an 11-inch by 17-inch pad of tracing paper or

 white vellum, an erasable colored pencil (I suggest the Prismacolor Col-Erase 20045 Carmine Red pencil), a ruler, and a fashion curve, a hip curve, or a French curve. I’ll demonstrate four methods for transferring curves to recently altered pattern  pieces. Te following examples are only shown on armscye curves, but feel free to experiment with other curved areas.  Linda Lee is an author, teacher, and owner of Te Sewing Workshop Pattern Collection. Visit SewingWorkshop.com.

Trace the curve Place a sheet of tracing paper over the affected curve before making alterations. Use a colored pencil to trace the curve from top to bottom along the cutting line. Then, compare this measurement with the pattern to make sure they match.

TRACING PAPER

Trace the curve along the cutting line.

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Reapply the tracing Trace the original front and back pattern armscye curves, as explained on page 45. If only the broad back adjustment applies, trace the back armscye curve only. NARROW SHOULDERS

If the pattern’s shoulder seams extend beyond the tip of your shoulders, your shoulders are too narrow for the pattern. Determine the new shoulder-point location before tracing the original armscye curve to the front and back bodice pattern pieces.

Align the tracing. Lay the

1 original curve tracing under the pattern, matching the top end point with the new shoulder point.

New shoulder point

Underarmscye point

Trace the armscye curve,

2 and extend the side seam. Pivot the tracing until the underarmscye point aligns with the side seam. Tape the tracing in place, and trace the original armscye shape to the pattern. Then, extend the side seam to meet the underarmscye point. Repeat this entire process for the bodice back pattern piece.

BODICE FRONT

Rotate the tracing and trace the original armscye shape.

BODICE FRONT

SQUARE SHOULDERS

If wrinkles in garments often occur between the shoulders and the bust area, you most likely have square shoulders. Determine the new shoulder-point location before tracing the original armscye curve to the front and back bodice pattern pieces.

Align the tracing. Lay the original armscye curve tracing under the pattern, matching the top end point with the new shoulder point.

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Trace the armscye curve, and connect the lines. Pivot the tracing until the underarmscye point aligns with the side seam. Tape the tracing in place, and trace the original armscye shape to the pattern. Draw a new shoulder slope from the new shoulder point to the neck point. Then, extend the side seam to meet the underarmscye point. Repeat this entire process for the bodice back pattern piece.

New shoulder slope

New shoulder point

Underarmscye point

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BODICE FRONT

Rotate the tracing and trace the original armscye shape.

BODICE FRONT

BROAD SHOULDERS

If sleeves bind and sleeve caps ride up on your shoulders, you most likely have broad shoulders. Determine the new shoulder-point location before tracing the original armscye curve to the front and back bodice pattern pieces.

Align the tracing. Lay the

1 original curve tracing under

the pattern, matching the top end point with the new shoulder point.

New shoulder point

Trace the curve, and extend the shoulder seam. Pivot the tracing until the underarmscye point meets the side seam. Tape the tracing in place, and trace the original armscye shape to the pattern. Extend the shoulder seam to meet the new shoulder point. Repeat this entire process for the bodice back pattern piece.

Underarmscye point

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Rotate the tracing and trace the original armscye shape.

BODICE FRONT

BODICE FRONT

BROAD BACK

If garments feel too tight across the back and you have difficulty moving your arms, you most likely have a broad back. Determine the new underarmscye-point location before extending the width on the back bodice pattern piece only. Align the tracing. Lay the

1 original armscye curve

tracing under the pattern, matching the top end point with the shoulder point. Pivot the tracing away from the pattern until the distance between the two underarmscye points equals half the discrepancy between  your back-width measurement and the pattern’s backwidth measurement. Add approximately 1 inch of ease to this dimension. Connect the lines. Tape the tracing in place. Use a fashion curve, hip curve, or French curve to restore the side seam by drawing a line from the underarmscye point to the waist.

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Shoulder point

Underarmscye point BODICE BACK

Underarmscye point BODICE BACK

Draw a curve connecting the underarmscye point to the waist.

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