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EB1511

DISCOVERING

INSECT WORLD

THE

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION

About the Authors Richard S. Zack is curator and director of the James Entomological Collection, and Roger D. Akre a professor and entomologist, both in the Department of Entomology, Washington State University, Pullman.

Acknowledgment This publication revises and replaces “Getting Acquainted with the Insect World,” by Arthur Retan and James E. Havens, EM2887, Cooperative Extension, Washington State University. Most illustrations are from “Insects and Mites: Techniques for Collection and Preservation,” Misc. 1443, USDA.

CONTENTS Introduction ............................................................................................................. 4 Beneficial Insects ...................................................................................................... 4 Destructive Insects .................................................................................................... 5 Insect Relatives .......................................................................................................... 6 Insect Characteristics................................................................................................ 6 Insect Growth ............................................................................................................ 7

Making an Insect Collection ......................................................................... 8 Equipment ................................................................................................................. 8 Where to Find Insects ............................................................................................. 10 Preserving Insects ................................................................................................... 11 Insect Identification ................................................................................................ 15

References ............................................................................................................... 22

discovering • Make an insect collection • Make an insect net, a killing jar, and a display case • Prepare and display the insects you collect • Keep a record of your work

Beneficial Insects Most of the millions of insect species on earth are beneficial. Insects are a major food source for many animals, and also help break down and recycle dead plants and animals. In addition, most flowering plants require insects for pollination. Insect pollination activities provide us with billions of dollars of fruits, vegetables, and other foods.

Introduction Insects are a very important group of animals. Many of them have complex, fascinating life cycles, and influence our lives in many ways. This project will help you discover more about the amazing insect world, and why insects are so important. You will learn how to: • Observe insects in nature • Investigate the ways insects live and develop • Distinguish between insects and other insect-like animals • Classify insects into their major groups

Some beneficial insects help control other, destructive insects. Many wasps and some flies destroy harmful caterpillars by laying eggs in them. The eggs hatch, and the immature wasp or fly feeds on the caterpillar, eventually destroying it. Some insects simply eat other insects. Lacewings, lady beetles, and praying mantids are well known for their ability to eat great numbers of aphids and other destructive insects. The use of one insect to control another is called biological control. Insects also produce useful materials. Bees make the honey that we eat and the wax that we use for our best quality candles. Silk, used for fine clothing and accessories, is made

INSECT WORLD

the

from moth cocoons. Insects also provide us with dyes, shellacs, and food. Insects have been important throughout human history. The ancient Egyptians used a scarab, or dung beetle, to symbolize their god of creation. Some people conjecture that the manna provided by God to the Jews as they wandered through the desert was actually honeydew, a sweet secretion of some insects. In some cultures, dried insects are made into a powder and used as medicine. In other cultures, insects have been and are still used as a source of food. Of course, insects also make the world a more beautiful and interesting place. The soft, delicate butterfly, the colorful beetle, and the sounds of the cricket at night are all familiar to us. Insects have been used to inspire art and as objects of art.

Destructive Insects Insects are our greatest competitors. They eat much of the food that we grow for ourselves and our animals, they infest our homes, clothing, and foodstuffs, and they are an annoyance. In addition, many of the world’s major diseases are spread by insects. Insects can cause human health problems in many parts of the world. There are few

insect-related human illnesses in the United States. Mosquitos take our blood, but very rarely leave us with a disease, such as malaria. However, there are many people that are very allergic to the stings of yellowjackets and bees. For them, even a single sting could be fatal. Most of us recognize insects as pests of agriculture. We lose approximately onethird of the world’s agricultural products to insects. In the U.S., millions of dollars are spent each year to control insects. Grains, fruits, vegetables, wood products, and other commodities are susceptible to insect damage and must be protected.

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Insect Characteristics Insect Relatives Insects are the most common animals in the world. However, not all small creatures are insects. The following is a list of insect-like animals and some of their characteristics. • Spiders • Mites • Ticks Four pairs of legs No antennae No wings Two body regions • Centipedes One pair of legs for each body segment One pair of antennae No wings Two body regions • Millipedes Two pairs of legs for each body segment One pair of antennae No wings Two body regions

Insects are a very distinct group, easily distinguished from insect-like animals when you know what to look for. Although the differences between the major groups of insects may seem great, each adult insect has the following in common: • A body divided into three regions: Head Thorax Abdomen • Six legs; three pairs, located on the thorax • One pair of antennae • Usually two pairs of wings, located on the thorax (flies have only one pair and some insects have none) Immature insects are more difficult to identify. They are known by different names, such as grubs, maggots, caterpillars, etc. The term “bugs” should never be used, except when referring to insects in the order Hemiptera. These are the true bugs, and have the first pair of wings divided into a front, leather-like section and a back membranous section.

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Insect Growth

2. Gradual Metamorphosis

One of the most amazing things about insects is the way they grow and change shape. Insects do not grow as we do, by just becoming larger. Since their skin is hard it will not stretch like ours does. The skeleton of an insect is the outer covering that you see, they have no internal bones. Thus, in order to grow, an insect must shed its old skin and grow a new one that is larger. This is called molting. In some insects, great changes in form take place during molting. This change in form is called metamorphosis. Insects are divided into three categories depending on whether they change form or not, and their type of metamorphosis. Some insects change very little, while in others the changes can be astonishing.

In species with gradual metamorphosis, the egg hatches into a small insect that looks something like the adult, but does not have wings. The insect will molt several times, becoming larger, but still wingless. This immature form is called a nymph. Some nymphs, such as grasshoppers, have small wing buds, but the insect cannot use them to fly. Eventually the nymph will molt into an adult that has wings and is capable of flight. Adult insects do not molt and cannot become larger. Thus, a small grasshopper with wings will never grow into a larger grasshopper. The grasshopper is the best example of an insect with simple metamorphosis, but many other insects grow this way too, including crickets, cockroaches, earwigs, termites, lice, thrips, bugs, aphids, and cicadas.

l. No Metamorphosis No metamorphosis indicates that the insects do not change shape when they molt. However, they must still molt in order to grow. In insects without metamorphosis, the young look very much like the adults, only smaller. The insect begins as an egg which hatches into a miniature adult. After several molts, the insect becomes a true adult, capable of reproduction. This type of development is found in springtails, bristletails, and silverfish. None of these insects have wings.

Some insects, such as mayflies, stoneflies, and dragonflies, have nymphs called naiads, which are found only in water. The pattern of growth is the same, but naiads do not look as much like adults as grasshoppers and bugs do.

Gradual Metamorphosis

A small grasshopper with wings will never grow into a larger grasshopper.

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3. Complete Metamorphosis

Making an Insect Collection

Most insects have complete metamorphosis. The insect that hatches from the egg looks nothing like an adult. Instead, a tiny, wormlike animal called a larva emerges. Some larvae have special names, such as caterpillars (for butterflies and moths), grubs (for some beetles), and maggots (for flies). Larvae also grow by molting, eventually changing into pupae, a nonmoving stage in which great changes take place. The cocoon of a moth or butterfly is an example of a pupa. After a period lasting from a few days to several months, the shell of the pupa breaks open and the adult insect emerges.

There are many good reasons to make an insect collection. It will allow you to:

Flies, beetles, moths, butterflies, fleas, bees, wasps, and many other insects have a pupal stage. Once an insect changes from pupa to adult, it will no longer grow or change shape. Thus, a small beetle never grows into a larger beetle.

• Spend time outdoors • Study the insects while they are alive in their natural habitat • Study them at home • Create a display of specimens you can use to explain to others the insect’s physical characteristics and environmental adaptations Before collecting and killing an insect you should learn as much about it as possible by observing it. Where did you find it? What does it eat? Does it blend in with its surroundings? Does it fly, walk, or hop? There are hundreds of questions you can answer by just watching the insects. Record your observations in a small notebook for future reference. You can even draw pictures in your notebook to help explain what you saw. Keeping a field notebook is important. Carry it with you into the field.

Equipment To make an insect collection, you will need to make or purchase: • A collecting net

Complete Metamorphosis

Most insects have complete metamorphosis.

• A killing jar • Several small bottles or vials filled with alcohol

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Collecting Net

grooves and holes in one end of the wooden handle, so the rim can be attached.

You can collect many insects by simply picking them up or by knocking them into a jar, but capture of most insects will require a net. You can buy nets from a biological supply house or construct one using the following:

Cut the net material according to the pattern shown. The length of your material should be equal to or slightly longer than the circumference of the rim. The pattern in the illustration would make a bag 25 inches long with a 15-inch diameter. When the cloth is cut, sew up the edges and make a hem 1–2 inches wide at the top. Sew a strip of muslin around the top of the net for added strength. Slip the bag into the wire hoop and fasten the hoop to the handle, as shown, with fine wire or a sliding clamp.

• A wooden handle about 3 feet long (a broom or mop handle) • About 5 feet of stiff wire (no. 12 steel wire) • Fine-textured net material (nylon organdy or other leno weave fabric), about 3 x 5 feet, and a strip of muslin for the rim

A second net made solely of muslin is also a good idea to collect in thick vegetation and other situations that would destroy the finer net. If you keep the net dry and do not use 24” it in thorn bushes it will last for many years.

Bend the wire as shown to make a net rim about 12–15 inches in diameter. Cut small

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15 inches

48”

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30”

31/2”

4”

fold

Killing Jar

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Collecting Net and Net Ring

60” fold

How to make a collecting net.

24”

24”

To make an insect collection you will have to kill the insects, using a killing jar. To make one you will need: • A glass jar with a tight fitting lid (you may want several jars of different sizes) • Plaster of paris • A killing fluid, such as ethyl acetate (or fingernail polish remover)

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Place 1–2 inches of moist plaster of paris into the bottom of the jar and allow it to dry overnight. Pour approximately 1/4 inch of ethyl acetate in and close the lid. The plaster will absorb the ethyl acetate. After 10–15 minutes pour out any unabsorbed ethyl acetate. Wipe out the killing jar with tissue and close the lid. Before you use the jar to collect insects, put some small pieces of tissue into it to absorb moisture and to keep delicate insects from being destroyed by larger ones. Your killing jar will become weak after 2–3 days and must be recharged with killing fluid. A second method of killing insects is to capture them in a jar with several pieces of tissue paper in it and place the jar into a freezer. The insects will die within one hour. This method is very safe and works well if you are collecting insects near your home. A third method is to put insects into a jar with rubbing alcohol. This works well for beetles and is the best way to preserve many soft or delicate insects (such as termites, lice, aphids, stoneflies, etc.) and all non-insects. However, it should never be used for butterflies and moths. Safety precautions must be taken when you use a killing jar. Always label it as poison and write the name of the chemical that you are using on the jar. Never leave a killing jar open, and avoid smelling the fumes. Never leave killing jars where younger members of the family can reach them. And always wash your hands thoroughly after using the killing jar.

Where to Find Insects Insects are everywhere. The more places you search, the more variety of insects you will find. Some of the best places are: • On flowers and plants • Under stones, logs, leaves and debris in contact with the soil • Under bark, within rotting logs and around woodpiles • Near streetlights and porch lights • In the soil, especially around the roots of plants • Along the edges of rivers, streams, lakes and ponds, especially near aquatic plants • In or around fruit • On domestic animals or in animal sleeping areas Keep a record of the dates, the places you searched for insects, and the types of insects you found in your field notebook.

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Mounting Insects Preserving Insects Before preparing your insects please read this entire section. It will help you avoid mistakes. Insects are most easily prepared when they are fresh and still soft. If left in your killing jar, even for as little as several hours, the insects will become hard and brittle, making them difficult to prepare. If you are unable to prepare your insects within several hours after you collect them, you can keep them fresh by placing them in a small jar (baby food jars or plastic 35mm film containers work well) with some tissue and keeping them in your freezer until you are ready to mount them. When you want to work with them, remove them from the freezer and allow the jar to sit at room temperature for 10 to 20 minutes until the insects become soft and pliable.

A point-mounted beetle

Insects should be mounted on special insect pins. These pins are available from biological supply houses, local hobby shops, or county agents. Common sewing needles and pins are too short and thick, so do not use them to mount insects. Most insects are pinned through the thorax (middle body section) with the exception of beetles and cockroaches, which are pinned through the Where to pin various insects right wing. Larger insects, such as grasshoppers and crickets, should have the body supported until the insect dries. Pin these insects onto styrofoam and arrange them into position. Very small insects may be glued onto small paper points cut from stiff paper with small scissors or a single-edge razor blade. Push an insect pin through the large end of the paper point, and glue the insect to the pointed end with clear fingernail polish.

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Mounting Moths and Butterflies Moths and butterflies should be handled very carefully because of their large and delicate wings. Always pick them up by the body, from underneath. If you handle the wings, the scales, which provide the wing color and pattern, will rub off. Mount moths and butterflies with their wings spread to the sides of their bodies, using a spreading board or a spreading block. To make a spreading board you will need: • Two blocks of wood, 1-inch square and 6 inches long • Two pieces of soft wood for the top, each 2 3/4 inches wide, 12–15 inches long, and 3/8 inch thick • A flat strip of soft balsa wood, 10 inches long, 11/2 to 2 inches wide, and 1/4 inch thick

Nail the 2 top pieces to the end blocks as shown, leaving a gap of 1/4 to 1/2 inch between them. Glue the strip of balsa wood to the bottom of the board, covering the gap. Spreading boards can hold several insects at one time, and may also be purchased from biological supply houses. The spreading block is like the board, but holds only one butterfly or moth. The block can be constructed of any size wood. Cut a groove down the center of the board, and drill a small hole in the center of the groove. Fill the groove loosely with cotton to support the specimen. Cut 3 or 4 small notches on each side of the block. You will wrap thread around the block in each set of notches to hold the insect while it dries.

A spreading board. The balsa strip is glued under the gap between the top pieces.

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To mount a butterfly or moth: 1. Hold it by the sides of the thorax, and pin it through the center of the thorax. 2. Push the pin into the groove of your spreading board or block until the bases of the wings are even with the wood. 3. With a small piece of lightweight paper (for the board) or string (for the block), bring the wings on one side of the insect’s body down until they touch the wood. Hold the wing in place by pinning the paper down or by keeping tension on the string. 4. Use an insect pin to bring the front wing forward until it is straight out from the insect’s body. Keep the front wing in place by pinning the paper or applying tension to the string. 5. Repeat this with the hind wing, bringing it forward until there is just a small notch between the wings. Pin the paper down tightly on the spreading boards, or for a block, completely wrap the strands of string around that half of the block. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other set of wings. 7. Arrange the antennae and hold them in place with insect pins.

Let the moth or butterfly dry for 4 or 5 days. Remove your insect carefully, as it will be very brittle.

Preserving Small, Soft-Bodied, and Immature Insects Very small or soft-bodied insects such as termites, stoneflies, mayflies, springtails, and non-insects, such as spiders, can be collected and preserved in rubbing alcohol. Immature insects can also be placed into alcohol for long-term preservation. However, large ones, such as caterpillars, beetle grubs, or large fly maggots, must be killed in boiling water first, and then placed into the alcohol. Heat a small pan of water to boiling and put the insects in it. Immediately remove it from the stove and allow the water and insects to sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the insects and put them into alcohol. Insects may be preserved in alcohol permanently. Check them periodically to make sure that the alcohol has not evaporated away.

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Labeling Insects To be of scientific value your insects must have labels. The information for your labels should come from your collecting notebook. You may have one or more labels, including the date and location the insect was collected, and the name of the collector. Information on other labels could include the habitat in which the insect was found, such as under bark, in the soil, etc., and the name of the insect. Labels should be uniform in size and placed at the same height on each pin, using a pinning block. To make one, drill holes into a piece of wood to 3 different depths. The deepest hole is the height at which the insect is placed, and 1 /4” the succeeding holes 1 / 4 ” are for the labels. The 3/4” insect name label is 3 /4” 1 /2” always the last label and is placed flat on the floor of the display box.

Write labels for specimens preserved in alcohol in waterproof ink or pencil, and put them inside the jar with the insect.

Maintaining Your Collection Your collection of insects will last for as long as you are willing to care for it. Pinned insects can be stored in any small, sturdy, lidded box, such as a cigar box, pencil box or school box. You could even build a glass-topped display case. Glue a piece of corrugated cardboard, fiberboard, or foam into the bottom of the box to stick the insect pins in. Put a moth ball or small amount of crystals in the box to keep destructive insect pests away. Sew some moth crystals into a small cloth 1” bag and pin it into your box. 1”

Construction of a pinning block.

You can now arrange the insects in the box. They are very brittle and fragile. So, avoid knocking the display box around, and keep your collection away from moisture.

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Insect Identification There are millions of types of insects in the world. They are classified into the following categories, going from largest to smallest: phylum, class, order, family, genus, species. All insects belong to the phylum Arthropoda, and the class Insecta. It is important that you have adult insects because immature insects are difficult to identify. Adult insects usually have eyes, wings and 6 legs, although a few do not have wings. If you do not have an adult insect, look at the sections on Insect Relatives and Insect Growth to see if you have an immature insect or an insect-like creature. For more information on identifying insects, use the references on pages 22–23 or visit your local library.

Insect Orders All of the insects you have collected belong to one of the following orders. Identify your insects using these illustrations and descriptions and arrange the insects in your collection box so that those in the same order are together.

1. Collembola—Springtails These are very small, wingless insects, usually less than 1/8 inch long. They can flip themselves into the air using a spring-like appendage under the abdomen. They are usually found in damp places, under boards, in rotting logs, and in decaying vegetation. Preserve them in alcohol.

2. Thysanura —Bristletails and Silverfish These are elongate, wingless insects with long antennae and three tail-like appendages. They are approximately 3/8 to 3/4 inch long. They are usually white or silvery, and the body is often covered with scales. Preserve them in alcohol.

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3. Ephemeroptera—Mayflies Mayflies are delicate insects which range from small (1/4 inch) to large (3 inches). They have large, triangle-shaped wings with many veins. When the insect is at rest, the wings are held straight up over the back. Most mayflies have 2 or 3 long, tail-like appendages. They are usually found near water and are often attracted to lights. Preserve them in alcohol.

4. Odonata—Dragonflies and Damselflies These insects can be as large as 4 or 5 inches, and are often brilliantly colored. They have 4 large, delicate wings with many veins. They are most often found near water and should be pinned on a spreading board like butterflies and moths.

5. Orthoptera—Grasshoppers, Crickets, Cockroaches, and Mantids This is a large group of diverse insects which are often very distinctive and colorful. Most have 4 wings, but some have very short wings or are wingless. They are found in a variety of environments. They should be pinned, and large specimens should have added support while they are drying.

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6. Dermaptera—Earwigs These insects have large, pincer-like appendages at the end of the abdomen. Adults have 4 short wings. They live under rocks, wood, bark, in cracks and crevices, in fruit, and often in homes. Pin them through the right wing.

7. Isoptera —Termites Termites are soft-bodied insects, generally less than one inch long and may be winged or wingless. Termite nests contain workers, soldiers and queens, which have somewhat different appearances. They are usually found in wood lying on the ground. Preserve them in alcohol.

8. Plecoptera—Stoneflies Stoneflies may be 1/2 to over 2 inches long. They have 4 large wings folded flat over their backs. They are usually close to water, which is where the immatures live. Preserve them in alcohol.

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9. Mallophaga and Anoplura—Lice These are small, flat insects found only on other animals, such as mammals and birds. They feed on blood, feathers, skin, bits of hair, or other animal parts. Collect them by brushing the hair or feathers of an animal. They are very small and only the careful observer will find them. Lice should be preserved in alcohol.

10. Thysanoptera—Thrips Thrips are small insects, usually less than 1 /10 of an inch long. They are particularly common on flowers. Gently tap a flower over a white paper sheet to dislodge them. They have four wings fringed with hairs. Preserve them in alcohol.

11. Hemiptera—Bugs The bugs are a large group of both wingless and winged insects. Most have 4 wings and sometimes look beetle-like. However, the wings are divided into a front, harder section, and a back, softer section. They often have a prominent triangular area between the wings. Bugs are found on land and in water. Insects in this order are the only ones referred to as bugs by entomologists. They should be pinned, or if small placed on paper points.

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12. Homoptera—Aphids, Cicadas, Hoppers, and Scale Insects This is a large and diverse group of insects. Most are small (1/4 to 1/2 inch), while some cicadas may be 2 or more inches in length. All feed on plants and that is usually the best place to find them. Soft Homoptera such as aphids and scale insects should be preserved in alcohol. All others can be pinned.

13. Neuroptera—Snakeflies, Lacewings, Alderflies, and Relatives These are usually large (1/2 to 11/2 inches), somewhat soft insects with 4 large, membranous wings with many veins. They are found in a great variety of habitats and many are attracted to lights. They should be pinned.

14. Coleoptera—Beetles Beetles are easily recognized by the hard front wings (elytra) which meet to form a straight line down the back of the insect. They range in size from 1/16 inch up to 3 or 4 inches long. Some beetles have short front wings, making them look like small earwigs without pincers. Beetles should be pinned through the right wing, or, if very small, placed on paper points.

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15. Mecoptera—Scorpionflies Scorpionflies are medium-sized insects with a long face and 4, large, membranous wings. Some have a tail resembling a scorpion’s, but they do not sting. They are usually found in dense vegetation and are very rare. They should be pinned.

16. Trichoptera—Caddisflies Caddisflies are small to medium-sized insects which often look like small moths. They have 4 large wings, which are usually hairy, folded tent-like over their backs. They are found near water, where the immatures live, and are attracted to lights. Preserve them in alcohol.

17. Lepidoptera—Butterflies and Moths These insects have scales on their relatively large wings, which often form beautiful patterns. They are very delicate and should be handled carefully. They arefound in a variety of environments; many can be found on plants. Prepare butterflies and moths by spreading them on a board or block.

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18. Diptera—Flies Flies are one of a few groups of insects that have only one pair of wings on the thorax. They are very common. Most flies are small, although some may be one inch or larger. They should be pinned or mounted on paper points.

19. Siphonaptera—Fleas These are small wingless insects that feed on the blood of living animals. They are vertically flat so they can move through the hair of their host animal easily. Fleas are very active and difficult to capture. Preserve them in alcohol.

20. Hymenoptera—Bees, Wasps, and Ants These insects may be winged, such as bees and wasps or wingless such as most ants. The winged ones have 4 wings. Wasps and bees are found almost everywhere, but are especially abundant near flowers. Be careful when collecting them, as many can give you a painful sting. Large specimens should be pinned through the thorax, and some small ones should be mounted on paper points.

22 REFERENCES The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Insects and Spiders, by L. Milne and M. Milne. New York: A. Knopf, 1980. 989 pages.

How to Know the Immature Insects, by H. F. Chu. (Pictured Key Nature Series). Dubuque, Iowa: Wm. C. Brown, 1949. 234 pages.

Butterflies Afield of the Pacific Northwest, by W. A. Neill and D. J. Hepburn. Seattle, Wash.: Pacific Search Books, 1976. 94 pages.

How to Know the Insects, by R. G. Bland and H. E. Jacques. (Pictured Key Nature Series). Dubuque, Iowa: Wm. C. Brown, 1978. 400 pages.

Butterflies and Moths, by R. T. Mitchell and H. S. Zim. (Golden Guide Series). New York: Golden Press, 1977. 160 pages. The Butterflies of North America, by W. H. Howe. New York: Doubleday, 1975. 633 pages. Butterflies of Oregon, by E. Dornfield. Forest Grove, Ore.: Timber Press, 1980. 275 pages. Field Guide to the Butterflies of the Pacific Northwest, by J. R. Christensen. Moscow, Idaho: University of Idaho Press, 1981. 116 pages. A Field Guide to the Insects, by D. J. Borror and R. E. White. Boston, Mass.: Houghton Mifflin, 1970. 404 pages. Fieldbook of Nature Photography, by P. Maye. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1974. 109 pages. How Insects Live, by W. M. Blaney. Oxford: Elsevier, 1976. 160 pages. How to Know the Aquatic Insects, by D. M. Lehmkuhl. (Pictured Key Nature Series). Dubuque, Iowa: Wm. C. Brown, 1979. 164 pages. How to Know the Beetles, by R. H. Arnett, R. H. Downie, and N. M. Jacques. (Pictured Key Nature Series). Dubuque, Iowa: Wm. C. Brown, 1980. 416 pages.

How to Know the Spiders, by B. J. Kaston. (Pictured Key Nature Series). Dubuque, Iowa: Wm. C. Brown, 1978. Third edition. 272 pages. How to Know the True Bugs (HemipteraHeteroptera), by J. A. Slater and R. M. Baranowski. (Pictured Key Nature Series). Dubuque, Iowa: Wm. C. Brown, 1978. 256 pages. How to Make an Insect Collection, Santa Monica Calif.: Bioquip Products, n.d. 24 pages. Insect Pests, by G. S. Fichter. (Golden Guide Series). New York: Golden Press, 1966. 160 pages. Insect Photography, by R. D. Akre and A. Antonelli. EB0659, Cooperative Extension, Washington State University, Pullman. 1983. 12 pages. Insects, by H. S. Zim and C. Cottam. (Golden Guide Series). New York: Golden Press, 1956. 160 pages. The Insects and Arachnids of Canada, Part 1: Collecting, Preparing, and Preserving Insects, Mites, and Spiders, by J. E. H. Martin. Publ. 1643. Supply and Services Canada. Hull, Quebec, Canada K1A 0S9. 1977. 182 pages.

23 BIOLOGICAL SUPPLY HOUSES An Introduction to the Study of Insects, by D. J. Borror, D. M. DeLong, and C. A. Triplehorn. New York: Saunders, 1981. 827 pages. Life on a Little Known Planet, by H. E. Evans. New York: Dell, 1968. 318 pages. Moth Book: A Popular Guide to a Knowledge of the Moths of North America, by W. J. Holland. Revised edition by A. Brower, ed. New York: Dover, 1968. 479 pages. Simon and Schuster’s Guide to Insects, by R. Arnett and R. L. Jacques. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1981. 511 pages. Six-Legged Science, by B. Hocking. Cambridge, Mass.: Schenkman, 1968. 199 pages. Spiders and Their Kin, by H. W. Levi and L. R. Levi. (Golden Guide Series). New York: Golden Press, 1968. 160 pages.

American Biological Supply Co., 1330 Dillon Heights Ave., Baltimore, Maryland 21228 BioQuip Products, P.O. Box 61, Santa Monica, California 90406 Carolina Biological Supply Company, Powell Laboratories Division, Gladstone, Oregon 97027 Wards Natural Science Establishment, P.O. Box 2567, Santa Fe Springs, California 90670-0567

Issued by Washington State University Cooperative Extension and the U.S. Department of Agriculture in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Cooperative Extension programs and policies are consistent with federal and state laws and regulations on nondiscrimination regarding race, sex, religion, age, color, creed, national or ethnic origin; physical, mental or sensory disability; marital status, sexual orientation, and status as a Vietnam-era or disabled veteran. Evidence of noncompliance may be reported through your local Cooperative Extension office. Trade names have been used to simplify information; no endorsement is intended. Subject codes 352, 670. Reprinted May 2001. C

EB1511