como armar un chasis de karting

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MATERIALS REQUIRED:

(42 FT) Round Tubing, 1.00” O.D. X .058” wall (2 ½” X 6”) Mild steel sheet, 11 GA  (4” X 8”) Mild steel plate, ¼”  (4” X 12”) Mild steel sheet, 14 GA  (23” X 22”) Mild steel sheet, 16 GA  SUGGESTED TOOLS:

Tube bender with a bending die for ¾” tubing, 4” bend radius. Hole saw cutting tool (such as a Joint Jigger™ or similar brand) Hole saw, ¾” diameter diameter Bend grinder with ¾” wide grinding wheel. Flat work surface IMPORTANT NOTES:

This project is intended to be completed using either MIG, TIG, or Oxy-Acetylene weld processes. However, if either TIG or the Oxy processes are used, the weld joints need to be particularly tight. Whenever you make more than one bend in a tube form that must remain flat, pay particular attention to the plane of  the tube prior to each bend. Otherwise, the tube form may become unusable. This can be accomplished by adjusting the height of a take-up table or surface to correspond to the

bottom of the tube. This is best done before any bends are made, while the tube is resting in the bending die. The actual plans for the frame follow the steps which are necessary to building the frame. The images where take out of  our PDF version of the plans and some measurements are hard to read, so what we did was put a URL after each image with measurements that may be hard to read. I think you’ll find it helpful J

INSTRUCTIONS: Step 1

Referring to the cut list on page one of the drawing, cut a length of ¾” X .058 tubing for part number WP-908-2. Step 2

Using a tube bender with a ¾” X 4” bending die, make the bends in the tube to create part number WP-908-2 as shown on the drawing. This will be the bottom of the go-kart frame  After all bends are made, this part will be a rectangle. Make sure the tube ends are within a 1/16” from each other and facing each other in the middle of one of the shorter legs of the rectangle, as noted on the drawing. Step 3

Weld the ends of the tube rectangle together. This should be a flat weld bead all the way around the tube. Make sure the frame bottom” lays flat on the work surface before and after it is welded. Step 4

Cut the length of tubing for part number WP-908-3 Step 5

Similar to the above steps, make the necessary bends to create part number WP-098-3. Step 6

Most hole saw tools will not make long, shallow cuts like the ones at the ends of part number WP-908-3. This is due to the limited travel distance of the hole saw. An effective method of  preparing these tube ends for the joint is by forming them on a bench grinder. This is a common method of creating a “Fishmouth” in the ends of tubing used in aircraft construction. It is done by using a dressing wheel to create a radius to the face of a grinding wheel. The width of the grinding wheel must equal the diameter of the tubing to which the part will mate- in this case, ¾”.  After the grinding wheel face has been shaped (radiused), the tube end can be formed by holding the end of a tube at the correct angle while grinding a concave or “fish-mouth necessary to create the joint geometry. It is advisable to practice first on a piece of scrap tubing. Be sure to work slowly and check the fit often. It won’t take long to get a feel for how much to grind. The results can be surprisingly good. Step 7

Cut tubing and make the necessary end cuts for part numbers WP-908-5, WP-908-6, WP-908-7, WP-908-8, WP-908-

9, and WP-908-10. Always check the fit of the tube where there is contact with another tube, in other words, at the joints. Step 9

Place the frame bottom, WP-908-2, on the flat work surface. Clamp it in place, or place weights on top so it will not move easily. Position a WP-908-10 on one side of the frame bottom as indicated on the drawing. Make sure this tube is vertical and perpendicular to the long side of the bottom frame. Tack weld in place. Step 10

Repeat on the other side of the frame bottom.

Step 11

Place part numbers WP-908-6, and WP-908-7 between the frame bottom and in the locations indicated on the drawing.

Tack weld in place.

Step 12

Place part numbers WP-908-3, WP-908-5, WP-908-8, and WP-908-9 on the frame bottom as indicated on the drawing. Hold these parts in place with clamps, magnets, or wire. Recheck placement and fit after they have been secured in place. There should not be more than a 1/16” gap between parts at the joints.

Step 13

Tack weld each tube at the joints. Make sure the frame bottom is still flat on the work surface. Complete the welds at

each joint, alternating from one side of the frame to the other. Step 14

Cut a length of tubing and bend according to the drawing to make part number WP-908-4. This is the roll-over bar/seat back. Step 15

Position the roll-over bar on the frame according to the drawing. Check the fit at the tube ends. Tack weld in place at both ends of the tube. Recheck placement and fit and complete the welds. Step 16

Make part number WP-908-13. Position each part (one at a time) on the frame and check the fit. Tack weld each tube at the correct angle, making sure both parts are in-line with part number WP-908-6 (front crossmember). The position, placement, and angle of these parts directly effect the tracking and steering of the go-kart. Once this has been assured, complete the welds. Step 17

Cut part number WP-908-16 (qty 2) from the 11 GA sheet. Bend the plates as indicated on the drawing. Note: use the flat pattern dimensions when cutting the parts out of the sheet.

Step 18

Weld WP-908-16 in place one at a time as indicated on the drawing. The position, placement, and angle of these parts also affect the tracking and steering of the go-kart. Special care should be taken to assure they are correct on the frame before and after welding. Step 19

Cut and prepare the ends of part number WP-908-12 (qty 2). Cut a length of tube for part number WP-908-11. Step 20

Position these tubes on the frame as indicated on the drawing. Check the joint fit and tack weld in place. Then complete the welds. Step 21

From the 16 GA material, cut part number WP-908-17. Place this part on the frame and weld in place. To eliminate or avoid warping the plate, or causing misalignment, begin by tack  welding the plate at each corner and in the middle of each edge. Step 22

Cut part number WP-908-14 from the ¼” plate material.

Tack weld in place. Check placement referencing the drawing. Complete the welds. These plates are the rear axle bearing mounting plates. The details of the bearing mounting holes have been omitted due to the various bearings that are available and may be preferred by the builder. Step 23

Cut part number WP-908-15 from the 14 GA material, using the flat pattern dimensions. Make the indicated bends in the part This part is the engine mount bracket. The engine mount bolt pattern has been omitted due to the various engines available and preferred by the builder. The particular mounting holes can easily be drilled in the bracket after welding. Step 24

Place the engine mount bracket on the frame and position as indicated on the drawing. Check the fit and tack weld in place. Complete the welds.  At this point the basic go-kart frame is complete. Items not included in this plan set are the spindles, gas and brake pedals, steering shaft and bellcrank, seat and seat mounting. All these items are readily available, off-the-shelf items that do not need to be fabricated.

Go Kart Frame Plans:

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/goframe1.jpg

Side View:

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/frame-side-view.jpg

Rear View and Front View:

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/frame-rear-front-view.jpg

Top View

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/frame-top-view.jpg

Bottom View:

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/frame-bottom-view.jpg

WP908-2:

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-2a.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-2b.jpg

WP-908-3:

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP908-3a.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-3b.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-3C.jpg

WP-908-4:

To See A Larger Version Of This Frame Image go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-4a.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-4b.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-4c.jpg

WP-908-5, WP-908-6, WP-908-10:

To See A Larger Version Of These Images go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-5a.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-5b.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-10.jpg

WP908-6, WP-908-7, WP-908-11:

To See A Larger Version Of These Images go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-6.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-7.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-11.jpg

WP908-8, WP-908-9:

To See A Larger Version Of These Images go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-8.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-8b.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-9.jpg

WP908-12:

To See A Larger Version Of These Images go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-12.jpg

WP-908-13, WP-908-14

WP-908-16:

Engine Mount Bracket:

To See A Larger Version Of These Images go to: Copy and Paste this URL Into Your Browser. http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-15.jpg And

http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-15b.jpg And http://www.wcwelding.com/images/WP-908-15c.jpg