Canadian Woodworking 017 (April-May 2002) PDF

 

PLANS

PROJECTS

Build a Classic

JIGS

TIPS

PA T T E R N S

APRIL/MAY 2002 Vol.5, No. 2

Garden Bench Make Your Own Countertop Jig  Intro to Hollow Turning  Saw Blade Review FREE Intarsia Pattern Book Review: 25 Essential Projects Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com

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THE

WOODWORKER’S

CHOICE

WWW.P O RT ER-C ABL E.C O M

 

V OLUME OLUME 5, NO. 2

C O N NTENTS AA

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EDITORS

P AUL FULCHER , LINDA  F  FULCHER  WRITERS

C ARL DUGUAY , M ARK  E  E AT  ATON ON,  ANK  ETHIER , R EA  EA  GIBSON, G ARNET H ALL,  JHIM K OUDYS OUDYS, G RAHAM  MCCULLOCH, LOU PEETERS, D ANNY  P  PROULX , P AUL R OSS OSS, STEVE SIDDALL , MICHEL THERIAULT, CHESTER  V   V   AN NESS, HENDRIK  V   V   ARJU

F E A T U R E S

 TIE  AW  W  T 6  S A B Y  G  G ARNET H ALL

ADVERTISING

P AUL FULCHER , LINDA  F  FULCHER 

 9 CLASSIC G ARD  ARDEN EN BENCH B Y  D  D ANNY  P  PROULX 

CIRCULATION

NEWS STANDS ACROSS C ANADA , SUBSCRIPTIONS VIA  C  C ANADIAN POST CORPORATION , P ARTICIPA  ARTICIPATING TING  W OODSHOWS OODSHOWS ACROSS C ANADA , C ANADIAN  W OODWORKING OODWORKING  A DVERTISERS DVERTISERS,  W OODSHOW  OODSHOW  E  E XHIBITORS & COMPETITIONS CANADIAN WOODWORKING IS PUBLISHED SIX TIMES PER YEAR :

FEBRUARY /M /M ARCH; A PRIL PRIL/M AY ;  JUNE/JULY ; A UGUST UGUST/SEPTEMBER ; OCTOBER /N /NOVEMBER ; DECEMBER /J /J ANUARY  SUBSCRIPTIONS 1 YEAR: 6 ISSUES PER YEAR  $15.99  $15.99 GST INCL.  A TLANTIC TLANTIC C ANADA  $17.99,  $17.99, USA $25.99, OVERSEAS $45.99 CDN 2 YEAR: 12 ISSUES $28.83 GST INCL.,  A TLANTIC TLANTIC C ANADA  $30.99,  $30.99, USA $48.83, OVERSEAS $88.83 CDN SINGLE COPY $3.99 + GST = $4.27 BACK ISSUES $5.75, USA ORDERS ADD $3.00,

17  INTRODUCTION TO

HOLLOW  T  TURNING B Y  P  P AUL R OSS OSS

 PUZZLE 19 M AGIC FOUR  P

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B Y  R   R EA  EA  G  GIBSON

 JIG  24  COUNTERTOP CONNECTOR  J B Y  L  LOU PEETERS

 BENCH  27  BUDDY  B B Y  S  STEVE SIDDALL

 29 BIRD FEEDER  B Y  R   R ICK  ICK  C  C AMPBELL

 33 DESIGN TIME B Y  H  H ANK  E  ETHIER 

OUTER  S  SPRING R EMOVAL EMOVAL  35 R OUTER 

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B Y  M  M ARK  E  E AT  ATON ON

VERSEAS ORDERS ADD

O INCLUD INC LUDES ES

$5.00 GST, POS POST TAGE AND HAN HANDLI DLING NG

G.S.T. R EG EG. #120447560 ISSN #1497-0023 M AIL PUBLICATION  A GREEMENT GREEMENT #40035186 COPYRIGHT 2001 BY  C  C ANADIAN W OODWORKING OODWORKING M AGAZINE DIV . OF V ISION ISION Q UEST UEST INCORPORATED

 F ANS  37  DUST COLLECTOR  F B Y  C  CHESTER  V   V   AN NESS

 R EVIEW  EVIEW : 25 ESSENTIAL 40 BOOK  R 

PROJECTS FOR  Y   Y OUR  OUR  W   W ORKSHOP ORKSHOP B Y  M  MICHEL THERIAULT

CANADIAN WOODWORKING MAGAZINE RR#3 BURFORD, ON N0E 1A0 TEL. (519)449-2444 (519)449-2444 FAX (519)449-2445 email:[email protected] website: www.canadianwoodwor www.canadianwoodworking.com king.com

R EPRINTING EPRINTING IN WHOLE OR PART IS FORBIDDEN EXCEPT BY WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHERS. Please exercise caution when working with any tools or machinery. Follow common safety rules and precautions as outlined in any manuals related to the equipment being used. This publication is sold with the understanding that (1) the authors and editors are not responsible for the results of any actions taken on the basis of information in this publication, nor for any errors or omissions; and (2) the publisher is not engaged in professional advice/ser advice/services. vices. publisher, the authors andrendering editors, expressly disclaim all and any The any liability to anyand person, whether a purchaser of this publication or not, in respect of anything and of the consequences of anything done or omitted to be done by any such person in reliance, whether whole or partial, upon the whole or any any part of the contents of this publication. If advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought.

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

D E P A R T M E N T S 3

EDITORS LETTERS

4

DEAR EDITORS

15

TOOL TEST

21

PRO TIPS

22 34

TOOL REVIEW QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

27

Cover photo by Michael Bowie from Lux Photography, Ottawa

CANADIAN WOODWORKING

1

 

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editorsletters INDA  FULCHER  L INDA 

igs are like belly-butt belly-buttons. ons. Every woodworker has one.”” That is one. is what our jig jig judge, judge, Lou Peeters, Peeters, told me about jigs. And I thought a jig was a dance! I was practicing with with Paul in the office, thinking to

“J

myself how much fun we are going to have at the Jig Contest.

Sorting out all these woodworking terms is a bit like a jigsaw puzzle to me. A jig. It is not a pattern. It is not a template. It is a dance, but this is not the jig jig we are talking about. I am beginning beginning to see the connection though . . . because you move a lot when you dance, and machines move move when they are running. I remember remember Garnet Hall giving some pretty good advice for bolting down the  jig saw. It is some something thing that makes a job easi easier er and safer. It is something that helps you make the project. The Canadian Dictionary Dictio nary defines defines jig as: “5) a device for holding holding a tool or for holding machine work in place. place.”” Apparently, woodworkers don’t have have a monopoly on  jigs. They They are prized by fishermen, miners and, in the case of “jiggers”, “jiggers”, by drinkers, drinkers, golfe golfers, rs, and sailors. sailors. I like finding finding ways of making making jobs easier and, if  you knew all the jobs I do, you might even even get the idea that I like to work. work. However, However, when you find a way of making a job easier – like making making a jig – then, really,, you are saving work! really Do you save your jigs? I am excited excited to learn that woodworkers everywhere have made their own jigs. jigs. I imagine that you were going along and, one day, day, you came up with with a jig so you could save yourself a bit of work and get a project done in time. Of course, there were a lot of important things going on at the time . . . maybe you didn’t stop to realize just how ingenious that little jig is. Go on. Check it out right now!

 AUL  UL  FULCHER  P A

s you’ll see from the Letters to the Editors, woodworkers everywhere are scouring the country looking for informa information tion on, and supplies supplies for, for, their favouritee past-time favourit pas t-time and hobby.

 A 

Woodworkers are looking for new and innovative ways to make the most of their passion. Whether it’s the raw material, a component that will be incorporated into their work or an end product that they can paint or finish. Woodworkers Woodworkers everywhere are reaching out! No longer are isolated woodworkers toiling away in their workshops, doing the best they can with what they’ve they’ve got. Now, Now, like never before, woodworkers are “getting “getting out there”. Sharing tipss and tricks, tip tricks, gi giving ving ideas ideas and suggest suggestion ions, s, of offer fering ing new new resources and showing each other their stuff. For instance, have you been to a wood show show lately? Well, from my experience, and from what I’m seeing on our web site’s site’s WOOD FORUM, FORUM, woodworkers are going to wood shows shows in record numbers to meet other woodworkers. Sure we all go to the shows for for the deals and seminars, seminars, but have you noticed the camaraderie that’s building among woodworkers? As one woodworker woodworker said: “When I want to know about a machine, I want talk to someone someone that has one and uses it.” it.” See for yourself on our web site – woodworkers are doing research on various tools and machinery,, talking to the experts and narrowing down machinery their decision – and then they’re turning to their peers and asking: “What do you think? What is your experience?” It’s a great development and one that is continuing to grow. (When we first started with the WOOD FORUM we rarely got more than 1000 postings in one month. Now we’re we’re getting close to a 1000 postings a week!) This issue we are introducing introducing a new feature feature called “ProTips” by Hendrik Varju, skills. Varju, to help you in your search for ways to improve your woodworking

Do you think another woodworker would be thrilled to try out your jig? Your Your jig may not have a name and it may even have seemed like a trivial trivial little device, at the time, but what if thousands of woodworkers across the country started using it? We’d have to name it after you!

Hendrik is a fine furniture designer/builder and woodworking instructor. Hendrik draws from extensive experience and has worked with all levels of woodworkers. He has practical tips to help you improve your skills.

So the jig is u p. We We know you’ve got those nifty little devices stowed away in your workshop. Send them to the Canadian Woodworking Jig Contest. In case you forget, forget, when you get to to the end of the magazine, magazin e, you will see the contest contest announcement. announcement. That ought to jiggle your memory.

Over the next six issues Hendrik will provide you with some very usable tips on the woodworking machinery that you are either currently using or working up to. The machines covered covered will include: the table saw, saw, the jointer jointer,, the thickness thickness planer, planer, the bandsaw bandsaw, the drill press and the router. He will cover each in order (because as Hendrik says “that’s the order in which the machines are generally used.”).

“In my last editorial I welcomed the new Moncton Wood Show, but mentioned the wrong date . . . it is Show, is actually coming up Novemb Nov ember er 8, 9, 10, 200 2002. 2. Note:

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

So read on. Whether Whether you’re a beginner or an old pro, there’s always room to improve. always improve. And remember remember,, “get out there” and pass on some of your own experience. Hopefully we’ll meet at one of  the wood shows. Until then, I’ll watch for for you on the web! CANADIAN WOODWORKING 3

 

L E T T E R S

deareditors Dear Paul and Linda I am both pleased and amazed with the interest in my book as a direct result of my ad in Canadian Woodworking Magazine. On one day day alone in Novembe Novemberr 2001, I received 22 orders for my Wooden Puzzle Book. Orders come from far and wide – many from the United States and many from small remote communities in Canada. My book is already into the second printing and I want you to know how very impressed I am with the results of advertising in your magazine. Keep up the good work! Many thanks, Rea Gibson P.S. I forgot to mention that your way y that that I hav havee magazine was the only onl y wa advertised advertis ed my book!

can be assembled at home for home emplo emp loyme yment? nt? Example Example:: glu gluing ing,, pe peggi gging, ng, nailing etc. Please let me know. Marilyn Jones [email protected]

Hi. I have started scrolling and would like to know if you can give me an address or some info on where in Canada I can send for clock fit-ups. Rob Burns

[email protected] Would you know of any woodworking companies that would have products that

DOWELMAX Precision Engineered Dowel Jig Create professionally made joints which are quick, easy, accurate and strong.

Love the FORUM FORUM,, hate the the CLASSICLASSIFIED. I enjoy browsing all the items for sale, but there must be a way way to limit the the time that the ads are posted. Dan

[email protected] I am a wood crafter looking for sources of various woods in BC and Alberta. I would appreciate any help you could give me in this area (ie mailing addresses, emaill addresses emai addresses,, phone numbers numbers of any any suppliers etc.). I am most interested in oak, maho ma hoga gany ny,, wa waln lnut ut,, ch cher erry ry wo wood od,, ma mapl plee and birch. Thanks in advance advance.. Bob Brown [email protected]

Dear Dan: You hit the nail on the head with your letter. We have noticed that some items are posted, post ed, sold and remove removed d within hours. hours. Others, Othe rs, how howeve ever, r, sit there there for for some some time time and take up space. We are currently looking for a new classified program that will delete ads after one month. Thanks for your feedback.

[email protected] [email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

Would you happen to know where I could find a wholesale supplier for unfinished wooden train whistles? Mary Rivers River Craft 1-867-873-4874 Dear Rob, Maril Marilyn, yn, Bob and Mary: Thanks for your email(s) looking for Canadian suppliers. Be sure to see this and future issues of Canadian Woodworking Magazine. Canadian suppliers are discovering that Canadian Woodworking is being read by woodworkers and crafters from coastt to coast, and that Canadia coas Canadian n woodworkers love to buy Canadian products! If  you don’t see what what you’re you’re looking for in the magazine, magazine, then try posting posting your query on our web site’s WOOD FORUM. Woodworkers from across Canada read the postings everyday and are eager to help out fellow woodworkers. Good luck  in your searches and hobbies. And remember, if you’re you’re looking for anything anything related

to woodworki woodworking, ng, start your searc search h at: at: http://www.canadianwoodworking.com

Your WOOD FORUM is a great place for a beginner woodworker. Regards, Charles Porter, Porter, Nova Scotia Scotia Dear Charles: Thanks for your letter. We have had similar letters from more advanced woodworkers saying it is a great place for them too! No matter how good you get at your craft, craft, you can always always improve and benefit from the advise of others. We hope that you continue to frequent the WOOD FORUM as you advance in your skills.

[email protected] I just purchased the Porter Cable cordless brad nailer at the Hamilton Wood Show and I think it is the greatest thing to use. It was so easy when building a project that I made on the weekend. It’s so convenient to use without any hoses. I would recommend this product to anyone that uses a brad nailer. Blair Rody

Dear Linda/Paul: [email protected] I am interested in learning wood carving, large and small birds in particular. Ben Honeyman Abbotsford BC

Dowelmax is a versatile, adjustable jig that can be disassembled and re-arranged to accommodate virtually any joint oint configuration. Accessories are available to further expand the capabilities of the jig.

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4  CANADIAN WOODWORKING

Dear Ben: Your letter is very timely. We are in the midst of putting together an on-going carving column for the magazine. If you (or any Canadian Woodworking reader) know of an accomplished carver/instructor interest inte rested ed in contribut contributing, ing, plea please se let us know. Editor’s Note: We are expanding and looking for contributors in several areas. If  you are interested in submitting something for publication, publication, please contact us.

First, let me say say that I enjoy enjoy your magazine a lot. It has something for every woodworker’s taste. I have only been a subscriber for 1 1/2 years, years, but did buy all available back issues. I only wish I had seen it sooner on the store magazine racks and I would have all the issues. Secondly Seco ndly,, I am writin writing g to see if if you would (or have) considered doing a yearly index? I’m sure it would be of great benefit to many of us trying to find a certain project or bit of information. Have you ever considered setting up an 800 phone line for all your long distance readers and subscribers to call with questions or address changes etc.? Thank you, Dale McLin Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 

Dear Dale Thanks for your letter – great suggestions! We are hoping to get to the annual index, but at this time it’s it’s all we can do to just get the magazine out and keep up with it’s growth. As for an 800 #, we are deliberately avoiding avoiding that at this time and encouraging email and web site interactions. It’s just a matter of  man-hours and at this end the phone is the least efficient method for those types of transactions. We realize that everyone doesn’t have a computer, computer, but if we had an 800 # we’d we’d never get onto our computers!

Tax Free Event! A discount equivalent to the tax will be deducted from your tuition.

Dear Paul and Linda:

In the Dec/Jan 02 issue of your magazine, John Cryderman wrote an article under WOODTIPS entitled “Inlay in Minutes”. Thank  you John! This article came at just the right time as I was building two jewellery boxes and I wanted to dress them up a little. As As you can see by the enclosed photos, the boxes are made of aromatic cedar with inlay of paduk, red heart and purple heart into bird’s bird’s eye maple (as was suggested in the article). It gave me just the effect that I wanted. I have been a sort of wood worker for a long time but have not had any formal training, so I fall short of having any of these tricks at hand. Thanks again. I enjoy your publication. John Wilson Aylmer ON

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CANADIAN WOODWORKING 5

 

 wood  woo dcraft 

BY

GARNET HALL

The Saw Tie very well-dressed woodworker should have a wooden tie. This project is fun to make and even

#7 precision skip or double tooth/reverse blade.

more fun to wear. This tie has some history. Two Two of my wooden ties were hanging on the set of “Home Improvement” Improv ement” for a few years. This is one of them. I sent two ties to the show after meeting Al at a wood show in the U.S. He really liked them and thought Tim would too. I had high hopes they would actually wear them them on the show, show, at least least once anyway. They did display them on the set, with each one hanging on either side of the window at the back of the set. Look for them next time you see a re-run. Wooden ties are fairly easy to make. This one is the saw tie.

Assemble and check for fit. Use a “light box” to see where the places places are that are holding the pieces apart. Mark  them and sand or cut these places down. You can also use a piece of carbon paper between the pieces. The high spots will be marked by the carbon paper and you will know where to sand or cut. Work away until you have all the pieces fitting within a saw kerf.

Transfer the pattern to the wood. Start by transferring the project to the wood. I like to make a template, but gluing the pattern pieces to the wood will also work.

bend.

E

Cut the pieces out. Cut carefully and the pieces will fit better. A good blade is important. I like a

MATERIAL LIST 1p c. 2” x 2 1/2 1/2”” (1/2 (1/2”” thick thick)) - Red Red Woo Woodd 1p c. 2” x 4” 4” (1/4 (1/4”” thick thick)) - Red Red Woo Woodd 1p c. 4” x 13” 13” (1/4 (1/4”” thic thick) k) - Whit Whitee Woo Woodd 1p c. 4” x 5” 5” (3/8 (3/8”” thick thick)) - Dar Darkk Woo Woodd 1p c. 4” x 18 18”” - Ba Backi cking ng Ma Mate teria riall 6  CANADIAN WOODWORKING

Choose your backing. Backing for the tie can be leather, leather, vinyl or even canvas. You want to use a material that bends easy and will last. Leather is the best and, and, of course, course, the most most expensi expensive. ve. Heavy vinyl will wear out over time at the

Glue up. The next biggest problem is finding a good glue to attach the wood to the leather. I find a two-part epoxy for gluing leather to wood works the best. The next best is contactt cement and finally, contac finally, Barge cement (white carpenter’s glue will just peel off). It is easier to apply the wood finish before befor e gluing the leather. It is also easier to glue the tie to a larger rectangle piece of leather and, after the glue glue dries, trim off the the excess excess leather with a sharp knife. I think you will have fun with this project. It will get a lot of comments I can guarantee it!

The wood shades and species are only my suggestions. Feel free to use other woods.

GARNET HALL is an intarsia artist living in Stoughton, SK. 1-800-729-2473 1-800-729-2473 www www.sawbird.com .sawbird.com

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 

Pattern reduced to 55%. Can be sized to preference. Attaching the Tie

• Make an attachment attachment so that you can can hang the tie around your neck by drilling a 1/4” hole through throug h the knot, as shown in the diagram. • Use a piece of 1/4” elastic elastic about 16” long. long. Glue Velcro pieces on each end with Velcro glue.

Measurements • The blade part part of the tie is 1/4” thick. thick. • The knot is 1/2” 1/2” thick. thick. • The saw handle handle part is 3/8” thick thick

Wood Types R - Red: Paduak, Bloodwood or or Aromatic Cedar W - White Aspen Aspen DK - Dark: Western Red Cedar O - Open (no wood)

Visit our website at http:/www.canadianwoodworking.com  http:/www.canadianwoodworking.com 

CANADIAN WOODWORKING

7

 

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8 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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featureproject 

B Y  D ANNY   PROULX 

Classic Garden Bench    o     i    r    a     t    n     O  ,    a    w    a     t     t     O  ,    y     h    p    a    r    g    o     t    o     h     P    x    u     L  ,    e     i    w    o     B     l    e    a     h    c     i     M    :     t     i     d    e    r     C    o     t    o     h     P

      

 ften ,  ften, one of  the most desired   pieces of outdoor   furnituree is a garde  furnitur garden n bench.  Many of us have just the ideal spot spot for this project project,, be it on the front porch so we can watch the world rush by, on the bac backk yard yard dec deck, k, or  even tucked away in a

O

forthe the ideal bench, I During lookedmy at research some of commercial offerings at my local furniture store. Many were light duty models made out of pine or cedar. Others were high-end commercial models, made from from teak and mahogany mahogany and would certainly put my budget in a tailspin. How do we get the quality of those high-end commercial models without considering a second mortgage on our homes? Well, Well, as a woodworker woodworker we have the option to build the project ourselves with substantial savings savings and, most likely, likely, at a higher quality quality.. First, decide on the basic design and then choose the construction material.

thin legs, curve legs, curved d arms, and delicate del lines. lines. The American style tended to icate be heavier in appearance with thick legs and flat wide arms. It makes a very strong visual statement. This garden bench is truly a North American classic with heavy 3” square legs and and thick, thick, 1 1/2” arms. Stringers Stringers and and seat slats also continue the theme as they are cons construc tructed ted out of 1 1/2” thic thick  k  material. There are many woods to choose from and, because I wanted a bench that would last for years, I decided to use a hardwood. hardwood. Ash is a hardwood used in the cabinet making industry because it resembles oak  but has a tighter grain structure. It’s a

secluded spot as part of the garden setting.

After looking at many styles I decided to design and build a garden bench that is considered more North American in design. The English style seemed to have

heavy, durable wood that, when properly heavy, properly protected, will stand up to a lot lot of abuse and provide many years of useful service.

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 9

 

BUIL BU ILDI DING NG TH THE E BE BENC NCH H STEP 1 Glue up 1 1/2” thick boards boards to form the front and rear legs. Four pieces are needed for the two front legs. Each leg requires two boards boards at 1 1/2” 1/2” x 3” x 24”. Each Each of the two rear leg blanks are formed by gluing two 1 1/2” x 5 1/4” 1/4” x 34” boards as shown. shown. Use moisture cured polyurethane glue for each of the blanks.

TIP

2

with the ash that I was using,

 then fill the voids with polyurethane glue  and a little little sawdust. sawdust. You’ll be able able to sand  sand   the area when the glue glue sets and eliminate eliminate  a place where water water can penetrate.  Mortise and tenon joiner joineryy is used   throughout this project as it’ it’ss an ideal   joint

MATERIAL MA TERIAL LIST

 If the wood is crack cracked ed from  poor air-drying, air-drying, as was the the case

to

connect

many

of

the

3” x 3” x 23 1/4”

 right angle inters intersections ections.. Waterproof   polyuret hane glue proved to be an

Front Legs

excellent choice for all these joints.  I opted to create thick material for the

2

3” x 3” x 32 1/2”

Rear Legs 1

1

wide by by 3” thic thick k wood wood blanks blanks for the

Upper Back Rail

 curved rear legs. All the other pieces for

1 1/2” x 3” x 68”

1 1/2” x 3” x 68”

Front Seat Rail 2

1 1/2” x 3” x 18”

Lower Leg Rails 2

1 1/2” x 3” x 18”

Seat Supports 1

1 1/2” x 2 1/4” x 16 1/4”

Centre Support 14

3/4” x 2 1/4” x 14”

Back Slats 26

1/2 “ x 3/4” x 2 1/4”

Slat Spacers 4

1/2” x 3/4” x 2 1/8”

End Slat Spacers 5

1 1/2” x 2 3/4” x 65”

Front Seat Board 2

1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 21”

Armrests Lumber Stock

9

 this bench are no more than than 1 1/2” thick.

STEP 2 Dress the front legs to a finished size of  3” x 3” x 23 1/4 1/4”. ”. STEP 3 Form a tenon on one end of each front leg assembly assemb ly that’s that’s 3/4” high and 1 1/2” square on the centre of the leg. STEP 4 Next, mark and cut the the mortises on the the front legs as shown. STEP 5 Sand the front legs and soften the edges with a 1/4” round over bit in in a router. router. STEP 6 Layout the curved back leg assemblies on the 3” x 5 1/4” 1/4” x 34” wood blanks as shown shown in the illustration.

1 1/2” x 2 3/4” x 71”

Seat Boards 1

This method is is ideal, as I needed 5 1/2” 

1 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 68”

Lower Back Rail 1

legs by gluing 1 1/2” boards together together..

STEP 7 Using a bandsaw is the easiest way to cut the back legs. However However,, it’ it’ss possible to use a jigsaw that has a fairly long travel distance if you haven’t got access to a bandsaw.. After bandsaw After cutting, cutting, clamp the legs legs together and sand so they will be the same size.

STEP 8 Form the mortises in the rear legs. Prior to cutting them, verify that their position is the same on both back and front legs for the seat supports and leg rails. STEP 9 The back assembly must be inserted into the rear legs prior to attaching the front and rearr sections rea sections of the the bench. bench. First, First, we need an upper back rail that has overall dim dimens ension ions of 1 1/2” 1/2a” x 5 1/2”template x 68”, cutby as shown. I screated curved marking lines parallel to each other, spaced one inch apart, apart, over an 8” run. Beginni Beginning ng at 3” from the the bottom, bottom, I marked marked a point on each line 3/8” 3/8” higher than than the last. This slight upward curved template allowed me to mark the the rail slope, slope, start starting ing at 10” from each rail end.

STEP 10 Cut the curve using a jigsaw and sand. STEP 11 Next, cut a lower lower back rail rail measuring measuring 1 1/2” 1/2” x 3” x 68”. 68”. STEP 12 Using a router with with a 1/2” straight cutting bit or a table saw equipped with a dado blade,, plo blade plow w a 3/4” wide by 1/2” 1/2” deep dado in the center of the uppe r back rail lower side and top side of the bottom back rail. These dadoes dadoes will accept accept the 3/4” thick  back slats.  Mortises can be cut in many

ways. If you have a dedicated  TIP  square chisel mortiser mortiser,, it’ it’ss an easy process. If you haven’t got access to  one of the machines, a drill press will   allow you you to make make excellent round round corner  mortise s. The tenon corner cornerss can be  rounded over with a wood file for for a tighter  fit.

STEP 13 Form the two two 1/2” thick by 1 1/2” wide by 2” long tenons on each end of the upper and lower back rails.

2” x 4” x 8’

Front Legs, Legs, Lowe Lowerr Back Rail, Front Seat Seat Rail, Lowe Lowerr Leg Rail, Seat Suppo Support, rt, Seat Slat Slatss 3

2” x 6” x 8’

Rear Legs, Legs, Upper Back Back Rails, Armrest 2

1” x 3” x 10’

Back Slats 10 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

STEP 6

STEP 7

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 

1 square = 1" 10" 5 1/2"

3"

2"

UPPER BACKREST RAIL 1 1/2" upper  backrest rail

rear leg armrest

backrest slats

2 angled pocket screws fastened under  arm rest

filler  strips seat slats

front leg

seat support lower backrest rail 3/4" wide x 1/2" deep dado

front seat rail

2"

36" radius

2 1/2"

*all mortises are 1/2" wide x 2" long x 1 9/16" deep centered

lower side rail

2" 17"

3/4"

14" 23 1/4" FRONT SEAT RAIL 3"

2"

2"

1 1/2" 1/2"

21" 7"

2"

2"

6 1/2"

6 1/2"

15 1/2"

10" 2"

2" 5 1/2" 3"

3" radius ARMREST 

3 1/2"

3 1/2" FRONT LEG front view 

front view

BACK LEG

side view  

Illustration by Len Churchill Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 11

 

STEP 14 Prepare 14 back back slats at 3/4” thick by 2 1/4” wide by 14” long. You will also also need to cut 26 slat slat spacers spacers at 1/2” x 3/4” x 2 1/4” long. As well, well, four spacer spacerss at 1/2” 1/2” x 3/4” x 2 1/8” long are are needed. needed. These These shorter shorter pieces are the first and last spacers on the upper and lower rails.

However,, we will scribe However scribe and cut a curve for the seat slats in the next step. These supportss are initiall support initially y cut at 1 1/2” x 3” x 18” with two two tenons at at 1/2” thick by by 1 1/2” deep by 2” long. After forming the tenons, reduce the the depth of each by by 1/4” to clear the intersecting joint of the front seat rail and lower back support rail.

STEP 15 Insert the spacers and slats into the upper

STEP 20 Mark a point at the center of the seat support,, 2 1/4” up from support from the bottom. bottom. Using a stick compass compass with with a 36” radiu radius, s, draw a curve. Cut both supports using a bandsaw or jigsaw. Clamp the two pieces together and sand smooth.

and lower backspacer rails. Beginning at one end, insert a 2 1/8” with glue and a small brad nail from behind to hold the spacer until the glue sets. Remember to use galvanized brads. Next, Next, install a slat, then a 2 1/4” spacer and so on. Work Work on the upper and lower lower rail, securing each each spacer and slat as they are installed until all the parts are attached. The last piece on each rail is the 2 1/8” spacer. Assemble the back to the rear legs.

STEP 16 A front seat rail to join the two front legs is required. required. This This rail measures measures 1 1/2” x 3” x 68” and has has a tenon tenon on on each each end as illustrated. Round over the bottom edge. STEP 17 Attach the two front legs to the front seat rail. If If available, available, use an 8’ pipe clamp clamp to secure the assembly until the glue dries. STEP 18 Cut two two lower lower leg rails at at 1 1/2” x 3” x 18”. Each end of these rails has a tenon at 1/2” 1/ 2” th thic ick k by 1 1/2” 1/2” dee deep p and and 2” 2” lo long. ng. After cutting cutting the the tenons, round over over all edges with a 1/4” round over bit in a router. router. Test fit fit the joints and reference each with a witness mark for later assembly. STEP 19 We now need two seat supports, supports, which are exact copies of the lower rails.

STEP 21 Round over the bottom edges of the seat supports.

TIP

Cut the mortise first. Then, using a file, file, form the the slightl slightlyy  oversized  oversiz ed tenons until they fit

 snugly into their their respective respective mortises. This This  procedure insures strong strong joints.

STEP 25 Space the the seat boards at at 1/4” starti starting ng from the rear. This spacing will force the front seat board to overhang the front seat rail. Attach the seat boards using one 2” screw per seat seat support rail, rail, for a total of  three screws per board. The front board has fivee 2” screws with fiv with the two extra extra being between the center and outside seat supports. Fill the counterbored holes with a wood plug and sand flush.

STEP 22 Attach the front and rear assemblies with the lower leg rails and the seat supports. Glue and clamp in position. STEP 23 Because the seat boards span almost six feet, a center support rail will be installed. This rail rail is first first cut at 1 1/2” x 2 1/4” x 16 1/4” long. We We want to duplicate the seat support curve so we’ll begin the radius line 3/4” in from the front front to a point that is 1/2” short of the back edge. The back is also angled to meet the lower back rail. Lay a straight edge from seat support to seat support to determine the correct position of  the center support board. Attach the center support with glue and screws. Counterbore the screw holes and insert wood plugs.

STEP 9

STEP 12

STEP 24 Cut six seat boards. boards. Five Five are 1 1/2” thick  by 2 3/4” 3/4” wide by by 71” long and and the sixth, sixth, which is the front board, board, is trimmed to 65” long to fit between the front legs. Sand and round over the top edges.

STEP 14

STEP 20

STEP 22

12 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 

STEP 26 The armrest is formed from a board 1 1/2” 1/2” thi thick ck by 5 1/2” 1/2” wid widee and 21” 21” lon long. g. Layout the pattern on the board as shown and cut the arm. STEP 27 The armrest is slightly angled where it meets the back leg. I found our angle to be eight degrees, however I suggest that you determine the best angle for your bench. Lay a level boardthe across the Mark front leg on the shoulder beside tenon. a line on the board where the back leg intersects. Measure the angle and cut each armrest. Make sure you place the arm correctly when cutting the angle as you are creating a right and left side.

STEP 28 Next, place each arm in its final position on top of the leg tenon and mark the mortise outline. There will be a slight error in the mortise position because the arm is not in its final position (it’s higher by the height of the tenon). Take this error into account when cutting the mortise. The arm will move slightly forward in the final home position after the mortise is completed.

STEP 29 After completing the mortise and verifying verif ying the fit is correct, correct, sand and round over the upper and lower surfaces of both arms. Round over the front curve but do not round over the angled end. STEP 30 Drill two countersunk pocket holes on the underside of each arm in the end where the arm meets the rear leg. Pilot drill these holes so they exitglue in the of theasarm’ arm’s back end. Apply tomiddle the mortise wells as the back surface of the arm and attach with two 2 1/2” screws through the pocket holes. Clamp the front joint. Use a stop block. Clamp a

t he line where the top TIP  board on the

 surface of the arm meets the

 back leg. This will wi ll prevent the arm from  creeping  cree ping upwar d as you tigh ten the  pocket screws.

STEP 31 Your classic garden bench is now ready

STEP 27

Nova 3000 Lathe

F R  R E  E E  E 

$

139900

with 1 HP Leeson Motor 

$

   

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1899

I tested various methods of attaching the arm to the rear legs. Using a mortise and tenon would be fine but the rear leg angle could cause fitting problems. Dowels are a good alternativ alternative, e, but I found the the pocket screw method to be the easiest and most accurate. There are areas where two mortise and tenon joints intersect. It depends where you place the back assembly mortises. You You can move the joints slightly towards the rear of the leg to avoid this situation, however,, I prefer to trim one of the tenons however during dry fitting. Ash is a nice hardwood to work with for a project of this type. The boards for this chair had been air dried for a couple of  years and did have some checks and cracks. Howev However, er, because I was was gluing stock for the legs, I could choose the the best outside surfaces. Use exterior rated fasteners and glues. I found the polyurethane glue to be an excellent choice for this project. It set up in a reasonably short time and the joints were solid. woodworking king author author and and teacher teacher..  DANNY PROULX is a woodwor www.cabinetmaking.com or  email [email protected]

for final sanding and finishing.

STEP 23

CONSTRUCTION NOTES

Super Nova

Chuck

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Supe r  r Nov a C huc k  k 

•16” swing over the 24” cast iron   bed (20” bed extensions available) with 1 HP Baldor DC Motor, Swivel cast iron headstock for easy speedss variable speed controller    outboard running •8 speed   (212-3600 R RPM) PM) •Cast iron with reverse switch and    tailstock  wiring harness

STEP 30

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CANADIAN WOODWORKING 13

 

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tooltest 

B Y  GRAHAM MCCULLOCH

Freud There

are

literally

hundreds

of 

commercially built router tables to choose from and most of them are very good. Somee woodw Som woodwork orkers ers,, ho howe wever ver,, pre prefer fer to make their own because they want to customize the under-frame or cabinet. Freud has solved the problem and come up with an interesting compromise. The new Freud Router Table Top is a large 32” x 24” melam melamine ine laminated laminated top top that is a full 1” thick and melamine melamine backed for stability. The new table top includes a recess rec essed ed alum aluminu inum m 3/4” 3/4” x 3/8” 3/8” ‘T’ mit miter er slot and a universal mounting plate. What a perfect way to top off your own custombuilt router cabinet. For ev even en more more accu accurac racy y, add the optional Freud SH-5 Micro-Adjustable Router Table Fence system to it (a  rating in Canadian Woodworking Woodworking June/July 2001) and you have got yourself  one heck of a good router table. As a bonus,, Freud include bonus includess plans for for a basic plywood base. The instructions that come with the RTT-01 say to clear coat the MDF edges if  you plan to use the Router table in damp areas. We We think that this should have been done in the manufacture of the table top. All in all, we think that the RTT RTT-01 -01 is a  router table and a good beginning for a custom-built Router Station.

Ryobi The new Ryobi is keeping its engineers pretty busy. It seems that at least once a month there is a new power tool being made available. Ryobi is filling a nice niche in the tool business. They are making excellent quality tools at “weekend woodworker” prices. This latest issue is an excellent example. The Ry Ryobi obi TR-31 is a 3/4 HP Laminate Trimmer Tri mmer/Rout /Router er with with a 1/4” colle collett and turns at 23,000 RPMs. Aside from its Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

obvious use being that of edge-trimming laminates lamin ates such such as melamine, melamine, it is also also a

We like the idea of a crepe sandpaper cleaner pad being incorporated into the

mini-router. There have been many times that I have found a large plunge router just too wieldy to use in tight spaces. In such cases the TR-31 would really fit the bill. Its compact size makes it real easy to handle. I chucked an ogee router bit into it and easily put a fancy fanc y edge on some 3/4” 3/4” oak.

Sander Sitter and it did clean the sanding discs quite well. We give the $24.95 Canadian-made Sander Sitter s.

The TR-31 comes with a 10’ power cord and two transparent plastic bases. The smaller one is designed for trimming and the larger larger base, base, wit with h its two two control control handles, is used for for conventional conventional routing. The TR-31 does not have a shaft lock on it, the theref refore ore,, it requ require iress two two (incl (include uded) d) wrenches for bit changing. For $139 at Home Depot, Depot, (Ryobi Tools Tools are sold exclusively by HD) the  TR-31 delivers a big bang for your buck.

Sander We haveSitter been wanting to try one of these Sander Sitters for some time now. They have been featured at most of the wood shows during the last year and we finally got our hands on one. Firstt and foremost, Firs foremost, the Sander Sitter is a time saver. Waiting for a random orbital sander to stop spinning before you can set it down is a real pain. The Sander Sitter has come to the rescue. We tried four brands bra nds of of 5” sand sanders ers (Po (Porte rterr-Cabl Cable, e, DeWalt, DeW alt, Ryobi and Black & Decker) in the the Sitter and although it does keep the sanderss relativ sander relatively ely still, still, there is is some movement at first. first. However, However, after time (a couple of weeks of use) we found that the sawdust filters into the bearings of the carousel and the movement becomes minimal. Noise was a factor at first but the sawdust cures that too.

Correction:

In our Feb/Mar 02 issue the rating of the Craftex Spindle Sander was incorrectly shown as a three star tool. It should have read s. Editor’s Note:

The HiPURformer polyurethane glue in the tubes (reviewed Feb/Mar/02) may harden at the nozzle after periods of non-use. The people at Franklin International tell us that this is normal due to moisture absorption. It is easily corrected by drilling into the end to allow the hot glue to blend with the hardened portion.

GRAHAM McCULLOCH is a woodworker and writer  living in Halifax, Halifax, NS. (902) 479-0221 [email protected] TOOL TEST RATING SYSTEM



..............below average quality 

  ...........average quality     ........very good quality/value 

.....excellent quality/value ..top of the line



CANADIAN WOODWORKING 15

 

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16 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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 wood  woo dturning B P

 Y   AUL

R OSS OSS

Introduction to Hollow  Hollow Turning  T

here are many forms and techniques for  hollow turning and  this introduction will only take a quick look at one of  them. Once you try hollow turn tu rnin ing, g, yo you u may may wa want nt to look into it a little further.

Start with a sphere shaped between centres (photo #1). Turn a spigot to grab with the chuck so that you can go in through a hole on the tailstock end. Next mount the sphere securely in the chuck. Use the tailstock to line it up. Then drill out the middle, middle, with a drill chuck chuck in the tailstock (photo #2). As I’ve I’ve explained in past issues, this does a couple of things things for us: it gives the the tool a place to fall into and it helps to set the depth of the piece. While drilling out the centre, get rid of as much bulk as possible. possible. This will cut down on your tool work on

emphasize that there are many ways of  hollowing out out the inside. This is one, one, very simple explanation of this process. It is simply a bar with an outrigger wing on the side of the bar. The cutting end rides on your tool rest and the outrigger end sits trapped between two stabilizing bars. These stabilizing bars eliminate any vertical twisting. This is a very effective effective system, syst em, espe especiall cially y for thin-walle thin-walled d and larger pieces. This setup can be seen in photo phot o #3. Basically Basically,, the inside inside is just scraped out with this hollowing bar to the desired thickness.

the inside. The tool I am using here is often referred to as a “captive “captive bar” hollowing rig. I must

The piece that I’ve done here is a sphere body of spalted maple. I used a contrasting piece of wood on the top to slightly close

1

2

3

4

5

6

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CANADIAN WOODWORKING 17

 

the hole. Cut the outside of the insert for the top (photo #4). Then cut across the face of the inside of the top (photo #5). Shape the inside surface to the outside surface of  the sphere, sphere, so that the top top sits flush, 1/8” around the hole in the sphere. Part the top off the waste block (photo #6). Glue the top on to the sphere, using the tailstock as a clamp (photo #7). For this article I used “cynoacrylite” “cynoacrylite” glue because it sets fast. You could also use wood/  carpenter’s glue and leave it clamped

Remove the tailstock and cut the top thinner and shape it (photo # 9). Turn off the bottom (photo #10). I usually suggest holding the piece in a vacuum chuck to turn the bottom. This time, let’ let’ss look at another another method method of  of  sanding the bottom (photo #11). Work  through the grits with a velcro sanding pad held in a drill press, or sand the entire piece off the lathe using this method. By trying different methods you will develop your versatility.

overnight. Use a 9-in-1 tool to form a bead where the top meets the sphere (photo #8). A “9-in-1” tool is a very very versatile tool. tool. It can be used like a tiny skew, skew, or like a tiny sheer scraper to form sharp and crisp beads and “V” cuts. What you are doing here is a little detailing to take your eye away from the joint.

9

4 Jaw Scroll Chucks

The overall thickness of the piece can be taken down down to as thin as 1/16” 1/16” using this captive bar type of setup. I used a laser pointer to measure wall thickness and turned the piece very thin so that I could pierce parts of the vessel with a dental hand drill. Express your creative side at this point and explore different texturing and carving techniques. PAUL PA UL ROSS owns and operates Chalet Woodcraft and  teaches woodturning woodturning in Boston, Ontario. (519) 443-5369 www.c www.chaletwoodcraft. haletwoodcraft.com com

7

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18 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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 wooden  woo denpuzzle B R 

 Y  EA  EA  GIBSON

Magic Four Puzzle

T

he object of this puzzle is to make up five shapes with the four pieces. Cut out the four shapes from 3/8”” or 1/2” 3/8 1/2” mat materi erial al and and apply a good finish.

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When you have have solved the puzzle, see how may more interesting shapes you can make from the four magic pieces!  REA GIBSON owns and operates Forest Forest Hill Studios and lives in Mount Forest, Ontario. email:[email protected] 

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 19

 

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20 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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protips

B Y  HENDRIK  V   V   ARJU

The Table Saw  S AFETY TIP:

The best advice I can give about safety is to use your blade guard. This is a safety feature ignored by ma many ny pe peop ople le,, es espe peci cial ally ly professionals. You might might notice, notice, how howev ever, er, that some some professionals have only 8 or 9 fingers. And if professionals lose a finger from time to time, think about the odds odds for an amateur. It isn’t the blade guard cover that is of  such importance – if you are wearing

safety The aree ver ar vgoggles. ery y hel helpf pful ulanti-kickback and, an d, in fingers some so me circumstances, do prevent prevent kickback. kickback. But the splitter at the back of the blade guard is absolutely vital for ripping operations. To understand why, why, you need to understand understand why kickback occurs. Kickback occurs when the leading edge of the board that is being ripped ri pped drifts away from the fence. The rising teeth at the back  of the blade catch the bottom of the board and send it flying upwards. Then the bottom of the board skates across the top teeth of the spinning blade. The board is violently thrown upwards and to the left. If  you’re you’ re lucky, lucky, it will fly over your your left shoulder. If you’re you’re not, it can hit you in the face, ches face, chest, t, stoma stomach, ch, etc. The speed speed of the flying object is so fast that you will not know it is coming. It happens in a split second. The splitter keeps the leading edge of the board from drifting away from the fence. The worst thing you can do is to rip rough-sawn boards without a splitter. Such boards are so rough and often bowed or twisted, that they will dance all all over the table while cutting. Without Without a splitter, splitter, it is a dangerous operation. Even as a full-time professional, I use my blade guard all of  the time for all rip cuts, cuts, even with smooth dimensioned lumber.

more important to line up the actual teeth of the blade blade to the cut line. Do not, for example, count on your rip fence distance settings for an accurate rip cut. Measure from the teeth of the blade to the fence with an accurate tape measure. And measure both at the front of the blade and the back  to ensure that your fence is parallel to the blade.

“

Kickback occurs when the leading edge of the board  that is being ripped drifts away from the fence.

”

Some blades have teeth that just point straight stra ight ahead, ahead, in which which case you you can measure to any of the teeth. However, many blades have teeth that alternate in direction dire ction,, some sometimes times interspe interspersed rsed with straight-pointing teeth (called “rakers”). If  your blade’s blade’s teeth alternate, choose a tooth that points farthest the teeth rip fence and measure to thattowards tooth. The that point the other way or point straight ahead will not provide an accurate measurement.

 S !  T S  R O D U C T  P R  W P  E W  N E

it, it is important to ensure ensure correct set-up set-up of  your rip fence and mitre gauge. It is even Visit our website at:www.c at:www.canadianwoodworking.com  anadianwoodworking.com 

One of the things most people have difficulty with is getting perfect 90-degree crosscuts. You definitely need to set your mitre gauge exactly 90 degrees to the blade or mitre slot. Using a crosscut sled is even better, because it is always always 90 degrees – if  you build build it right. right. However, However, what most people don’t realize is that their hands are not strong enough to hold the workpiece tight to the mitre gauge as the saw cuts. Between the vibration of the machine and the cutting the blade, the while work  piece will forces often of slide laterally cutting. Some people like to apply sandpaper to their mitre gauge. I prefer to clamp the work piece to the mitre gauge or crosscut sled with a one-handed quick clamp. It may seem like wasted wasted time, but it takes about five seconds and ensures a perfect cut every time – assuming that your set-up is correct. Perfect cuts aren’t as important if you’re just cutting deck boards, boards, but this technique is essential for accurate joinery. joine ry.

 Next issue Hend Hendrik rik gives tips on using  your jointer jointer..

 HENDRIK VAR VARJU JU is a Fine Fine Furniture Furniture Designer & Builder  Builder  in Acton, Ontario. (519) 853-2027  853-2027  www.passionforwood.com www.passionforwood. com email: [email protected]

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tool review 

B Y  C ARL DUGUAY 

Table Saw Blades Table Saw Blades: Combination and Crosscut

a chip limiter precedes each toot to oth, h, r est estrric icti ting ng

materials such as MDF or melamine, running a dull blade, feeding stock too slow, slow, removing too much material at one time,

daunting experience. There are dozens of  manufacturers offering a wide selection of  blades. blade s. On top of this, this, there are are a host of  factors that affect the performance of  a blade: blade: qual quality ity of of the stee steell used used in manufactur manuf acturing ing the plate, plate, the hardness hardness and flatness flat ness of the plate, plate, plate tensi tension on and balance bal ance,, arbo arbour ur hole hole concentr concentrici icity ty and accur acc urac acy y, too tooth th geo geomet metry ry,, an and d car carbi bide de quality. I recently looked at some of the more popular combination and crosscut blades from several of the leading manufacturers. What I found was that competition among manufacturers has generally resulted in overall ove rall high high standar standards: ds: all the the blades blades I looked at delivered very good performance and value. The differences were less betw be twee een n “poor “poor”” an and d “high “high”” qu qual alit ity y than than between varying levels of high quality quality.. The majority of blades are laser cut rather than hydraulically stamped (or die cut). Laser cutting puts less stress on the plate, particularly at the edge, and allows allows greater cutting accuracy. All plates are heat treated and tempered to toughen the steel, usually in an oil oil bat bath, h, alt althou hough gh SystiMatic uses a saline solution. The plates are also run through a grinder for flattening and then tensioned to prevent them from vibrating at high speeds. Tenryu and SystiMatic tension plates by hand (Exchange-A-Blade hand tensions its re-conditioned blades). Even with flattening and tensioning there will likely be some runout (wobble) in

tooth bite to a pre-determined safe amount. The business end Exchange-A-Blade of a saw blade is its Razor Back teeth. Tooth Tooth geometry, geometry, quality of the carbide used, thickness of the carbide and the quality of the brazing that attaches the teeth to the plate are all critical components. Teeth for ripping (also called “raker teeth”) are generally genera lly cut “flat “flat top grind” grind” (FTG) (FTG),, and rip through stock like tiny chisels. Crosscutting teeth are cut “alternate top bevel” bevel” (A (ATB), TB), and slice across the grain like knives. Two important tooth angles are the angle at which teeth cut into stock (hook angle), and the angle the top of the tooth makes from side to side (top bevel). SystiMatic 37102 Greater hook  angles cut faster and more aggressively but can result in splintering splintering the underside of  stock, parti particular cularly ly in sheet goods. goods. Raising the blade about 1/4” above the stock helps to reduce splintering. Increasing Incr easingly ly,, compan companies ies are using “super micrograin micro grain”” carbi carbide de in the manufacture manufacture of  teeth,, which means teeth means they use smaller smaller grains of carbide powder with titanium added to the binder. This makes for a tooth that can hold an edge longer between sharpening. The blades that I tested use C4 carbide, which whi ch looked looked well machi machined, ned, wit with h the

using the wrong blade for the type of  material mater ial being cut, cut, saw fence not properly properly aligned or inadequate horsepower on your table saw. Paying attention to these factors will help you get better performance from your blade. There are hundreds of different saw blade styles and sizes available. The SystiMatic catalogue, catal ogue, for insta instance, nce, lists 147 table saw blades. Blades are advertised in three grades:: econom grades economy y, contr contractor actor and indust industrial rial (which use the best material milled to the highest tolerances). They come in various vari ous styles, styles, the most most common common being: being: combin com binati ation, on, cro crosscu sscut, t, rip and and dado. You will find blades in either a standard plate thickness thick ness (.080” (.080” - .090”) and and as thin kerf  kerf  blades (around .060”). Thinner blades may be desirable if you have a low horsepower table saw (1 1/2 hp or less) or if you are concerned about wasting as little stock as possible. possibl e. Under Under sustain sustained ed use, thin kerf  blades may heat more easily than standard blades,, which could blades could lead to plate warping. warping. As well, the carbide carbide teeth are smaller smaller than on a standard standard blade, and hence they they cannot be re-sh re-sharp arpene ened d as often often,, whi which, ch, to some some extent, offsets their lower lower cost. Crosscut blades are designed to produce clean, crisp crossc crosscuts uts in solid solid wood wood and plywood. They come in a variety of  configurations, though the norm seems to be 60 to 80 teeth in an ATB tooth grind with a hook angle in the +10 degree range. Combination blades allow you to perform

blades; up to to .004” is considered acceptable. acceptable. Vibration and heat build-up are the bane of saw blade manufacturers. Most cut antivibration and expansion slots in their plates; a few fill these slots with a resin. The slots reduce vibration and noise, and help dissipate heat. Forrest recommends the use of blade stiffeners, which help Tenryu to reduce blade vibration and PR25580 nois no ise, e, an and d cont contri ribu bute te to to CBN producing a smoother cut. A few fe w com compa pani nies es,, no nota tabl bly y CMT and SystiMatic, put a non-stick non-stick coating coating (such as Teflon) on the plate to help reduce heat build-up. Fortunately resin build up only occurs on the teeth and is pretty easy to clean with pitch remover or oven cleaner. You’ll see that most combination blades use an anti-kickback design. Typically

honing on the CMT,  Forrest and Tenryu blades almost mirror like. Teeth are brazed onto the plate with a low melt alloy, generally silver alloy. Some companies use Tri-Metal Brazing, which sandwiches layers of copper between a layer of silver alloy all oy,, red reducin ucing g stress stress and and giving better impact resistance. The brazing on all the blades in my test looked smooth and even without any pinholes. In Forrest genera gen eral, l, thi thicke ckerr teeth teeth will Woodworker II allow you to sharpen the blade more often – I expect to get at least 10 sharpenings per blade. A general principle is that the more teeth on a blade the smoother the cut. Excessive heat build up is one of the leading causes of tooth deterioration. Heat build up can result from cutting abrasive

both ripping and crosscut functions with the same blade. They typically have 40 or 50 teeth in an ATB grind plus an FTG (raker) tooth with a 15-degree hook. Usually you’ll see four teeth with small gullets followed by a tooth with a deep gullet, gullet, which serves serves to remove sawdust rapidly. Some combo blades use a triple chip grind (TCG), (TCG), which is a FTG tooth with the sides of the teeth bevelled at the top. This helps to eliminate chipping in brittle material and sheet stock. Combination blades are designed to do a good job for general sawing. When ripping with a combo blade it is a good idea to use relatively slow feed rates and limit your cuts to 2” and under. You can use a combo blade for occasional ripping of sheet stock. However How ever,, if you will will be cutting cutting a lot of  melamine you might want to invest in a melam me lamin inee blade, blade, wh which ich uses uses a hig high h alternate top bevel (H-ATB) grind with a 0-degree hook angle.

Buying a new table saw blade can be a

22  CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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Testing I tested 11 blades (6 combo and 5 crosscut) on an Inca saw saw.. Prior to beginning the tests I checked the alignment on my miter gauge, rip fence fence and arbor shaft. shaft. I used a blade stiffe stiffener ner on all blades, blades, makin making g the same number and type of cut with each blade. For the combo blades I made rip and crosscuts crosscuts in plywood, plywood, melam melamine, ine, fir and ash. For the crosscut blades I restricted my test cuts to fir and ash. For cuts in softwood and sheet stock I raised the blade blade 1/4” 1/4” abov abovee the stock. stock. For For hardwood hardw ood I raised the blade blade 1” and fed at a faster rate. I took a fresh cut with each blade, teste tested d them all, and then took a final final cut. All the combo blades produced very good cross cross and rip rip cuts, cuts, with the the CMT, Forrest WW2 and Tenryu blades coming out the smoothest. The rip cuts made by

the Forrest WW2 and Tenryu were so smooth that I felt that I could go directly to glue up. In ripping sheet stock there was minimal tear tear out with with all the blades, with the least from the CMT,   Forrest and Tenryu. The cuts made by the crosscut blades were very impressive. In particular I found that the Tenryu and Forrest blades left virtually no teeth marks. You can see what I mean from from Photo 5, which shows shows final final samples from the five crosscut blades.

The CMT,  SystiMatic and Exchange-ABlade finishes were virtually indistinguishable from one another.

Combination Blades Exch Ex chan ange ge-A -A-B -Bla lade de SYST SYSTIM IMA ATI TIC C CMT CM T 1016832 (Razor Back)   37102 215.050.10 # of Teeth 50 50 50 Style ATB 4ATB+1FTG 4ATB+1TCG Rake 25˚ 15˚ 12˚ Top Bevel 20˚ 20˚ 20˚ P Kleartfe Thickness Tooth Length Price

..017205 .218 $69.99

..018351 .250 $90

..018276 .218 $118

Exchange-A-Blade 604-526-4595 www www.exchangeablade.com .exchangeablade.com

Forres Forr estt WW1 60 ATB 5˚ 30˚

Forres Forr estt Ten enry ryuu WW2   GM25540 40 40 ATB ATB 20˚ 20˚ 15˚ 15˚

..016120 .312 $158

..018275 .312 $129

Cross Cut Blades (photos at right) Exchange-A-Blade SYSTIMATIC CMT Forrest 1013872 (Pro Cabinet)   37 3742 4266 219.08 219. 080. 0.10 10 Dura Durali line ne HI HI-A -AT T # of Teeth 80 80 80 80 Style ATB ATB+AFB 4ATB+1TCG ATB Rake 10˚ 15˚ -5˚ 20˚ Top Bevel 20˚ 30˚ 30˚ 40˚ Plate Thickness .080 .080 .098 .087 Kerf .125 .104 .118 .125 Tooth Length .250 .218 .218 .312 Price $81.99 $156 $152 $201

o u r  o r  o  e  f o    e e  r  o g  F  l  F  a l o  t a  o l l  a    T T    l l  l  C C    C a  0 2  1

 0  2 0  - 9 8  1 / 2  2 0 0  8 8 - 6 8 2

For the weekend woodworker or for someone doin someone doing g rough rough carpen carpentry try,, the Exchange-A-Blade makes good sense for a combo blade. They are very competitively competitivel y priced and you can get ge t them re-sharpened at just about any hardware store. For the serious woodworker or in a professional shop the   CMT ,   Forrest WW2 or Tenryu combo blades are a good bet, and priced within a few dollars of each other. For finish cross cutting the Forrest Duraline or Tenryu blades are unsurpassed. I like the much larger teeth on the Forrest blade blade,, and the fact fact that you will get more sharpenings from it helps offset its premium price.

..018276 .187 $130

Tenryu   GM25540

80 ATB 20˚ 15˚ .087 .118 .187 $116

SystiMatic 800-387-7681 www.iksinc.com

CMT

www.cmtusa.com - Order online www.carbide.com

Forrest

800-229-4814 www. www.forrestblade forrestblades.com s.com

Tenryu 859-282-8158

www.tenryu.com - Order online www.carbide.com CARL DUGUAY DUGUAY is a writer and woodworker from Sidney,, British Columbia. 250-888-5067  Sidney 250-888-5067  [email protected] www.finewoodworking.ca

Chipping Away 

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 wood  woo djigs

B Y  L  LOU PEETERS

Countertop Connector Jig  recently had the challenge of  making cabinets for a ninety-foot yacht. The cabinets were larger

attachments for making this, or other jigs, jigs, with the router. The template guide attaches to the auxiliary sub-base of your

because the router bit requires dedicated bits, whereas the template template guide allows the use of different bits. Note that the cost of 

than the actual door into the room. This meant that everything had to be knocked down and assembled on site and I needed to find something to hold the joints together tightly, tightly, once the cabinetss were assembled. cabinet assembled. For this, I used a countertop connector jig. Before I get to the connector jig itself, I want to take a look at the template guide, which is one of the most useful

router, usually with a nut (photo #1). router, One important aspect of the template guide and the auxiliary sub-base is the sizes they will take. If you plan on using your router with many different jigs then, when you are looking looking for a router, look for one that accepts universal hole sizing. Of  course, cour se, if your your router router does does not hav havee universal unive rsal sizing, you can still use the jig, jig, but it will mean that you have to get the template guide custom machined at a local machine shop. You can avoid this expense in the long run by buying a router with universal hole sizing and universal templates. Universal hole sizing will give you the greatest versatility in using jigs from a

standard straight router bits (used with the template guide) is less than the cost of  bearing guided router bits. This is an important factor if you are doing a lot of  cuts and replacing bits frequently. What I enjoy most about template guides is using them with my own jigs. There are many operations you can make jigs for, including includin g siding dovetails, mortising butt hinges and inlay work jigs.

I

1

Template guide.

2

Router and jig are positioned to make the cut. 24   CANADIAN WOODWORKING

variety of sources. The template guide rides against your jig. It is worth noting that the same operation can be performed using a bearing on a router bit. Although the bearing router bit works well, I prefer using a template guide guide

 

Countertop connector jig.

3

4

Tighten the countertop connector bolt with wrench.

5

A stained piece with and unstained peice to show how tight the joint is. The joint is now hidden on the other side. Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 

MAKING THE COUNTERTOP CONNECTOR JIG Now lets take a look at the countertop connector jig (photo #3). Check on a mitre under your kitchen countertop and you will probably see this cut. It helps to hold the joint together. It is not an attractive joint but it can be very useful when parts have to be assembled on site. make with your  jigTosaw, so the thatjig, thecut slotthe is slot the same size as your template guide (see diagram on right & photo #2). Use a 1/2” 1/2” router bit to to a 7/16” 7/16” depth. Do both mating parts. Countertop connectors are available at your local hardware store (photo #4). You will be most impres sed with the tight joints you can achieve with this jig (photo #5).

 LOU PEETERS is a professiona professionall cabinetmaker and  seminar presenter, presenter, living in Woodstock, Woo dstock, Ontario. (519) 539-1437 

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 25

 

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SCULPTING TABLE  Tél: (613) 488-3111 Fax: (613) 488-3196 email: wood.select @sympatico.ca

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By fine furniture designer and builder  Beginners welcome ~ women encouraged  Week-long courses available Private woodworking seminars

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project B  S S easy project 

 Y  TEVE  S IDDALL

Buddy  Bench his “catchy” “catchy” child child’s ’s bench is the perfect place for that favouritee teddy bear buddy to favourit rest.

screw size you like best. I happened to have lots lots of #6 x 1 1/4” so I drilled drilled and countersunk the screws to allow the use of  3/8” flat head head plugs.

MATERIAL MA TERIAL LIST 2

11 1/8” x 20” x 3/4”

Bench End Pineofhas the we’ve material of  choice for many thebeen projects been doing. It’s It’s readily available, available, easy to cut, sand and finish and it’s economical when compared to other woods. For this reason, head off to your favorit favoritee lumber yard and find yourself the nicest nicest 1” 1” x 12” you can find for the back and sides of this project. By positioning the two legs legs properly, properly, you only need a 5’ piece. You’ll also need a 4’ piece of 1” x 4” for the the seat bottom. bottom.

Prior to any assemb assembly ly,, sand all surfaces surfaces to remove milling marks from the planing operation. I also removed the sharp edges all around. I just don’t like sharp edges because the finish never lasts long on them.

2

12

Cut the two two 20” 1 x 4s for the bottom and the 20” 1 x 12 for the back. After After having having visited your local photocopy shop to expand the leg/back support to full size, trace it twice twice on to the remaining 1” x 12” and cut.

Assemble your bench as shown with the screws you chose and glue the plugs into place. After After a final hand sanding and dust removal, remov al, you are ready to finish any way you wish. I stained and clear coated this one in preparation for our baseball theme wallpaper border. A good sealing coat is required for the paste to adhere properly. The beauty of wallpaper is that you can find almost any theme you wish at the local wallpaper shop.

Since you never know who is going to do something foolish (like stand on it) I prefer to screw this project together. Choose the

Another short and simple project that makes a great gift for children, new parents or teddy bear collectors.

T

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

3 1/2” x 20” x 3/4”

Bench Seat 1

11 1/8” x 20” x 3/4”

Bench Back  #6 x 1 1/4”

Wood Screws 12

3/8”

Wood Plugs Optional 20” wallpaper or border for bench back.

STEVE SIDDALL is president of Workshop Supply Inc. 1-800-387-5716 www.workshopsupply.com

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 27

 

28 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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kidsproject 

  B Y  R   R ICK  ICK  C  C AMPBELL

Bird Feeder The Challenge My woodworking skills have been put to the test many times by clients with wi th unusual requests for custom custom projects, projects, but my latest challenge came from a very unexpected source, my 10-year-old 10-year-old daughter’ daughter’ss Girl Guide troop. My assignment was to design a simple project that could be completed in in an evening by 9 to 12 year old kids with absolutely no woodworking skills – not an easy task to say the least. After considering my options I decided it was best to keep it simple and go with a traditional style bird feeder. I got down to work designing a version that would be both easy and economical for the kids to build. I made sure that all the parts were no more than 5” wide so I could use standard standard cedar fence boards for the material. Cedar is a good lumber choice for outdoor projects and the fence boards are both easy to find and inexpensive. To avoid waste be selective when buying your lumber – pass on any boards that are split or have loose knots. After completing the prototype I realized that there would not be enough time at the meeting for the kids to both cut out the parts and assemble the projects. My solution solutio n was to precut all the pieces, then bundle them together into kits that the kids could easily put together in an hour.

from one edge – trim a little off  each side to remove the curved p r o f i l e milled on the edges at the factory. With this done you can begin be gin cutt cutting ing the side sides, s, bac back, k, top and and bottom parts to length. To avoid measuring for each piece clamp a stop block to the fence, then position position the stop block block and fence the appropriate distance from the blade to establish the length of cut (photo 1). Be sure the stop block is located far enough to the front of the saw so that the piece is free when it hits the blade. This will prevent the material from getting  jammed between the blade and the fence, avoiding a potentially dangerous situation.

2

Mass Production Making the required number of kits one at a time was not an an option, so I used some common mass-production methods to save time. These techniques are useful to know know when faced with any job that calls for a large number of identical pieces.

Next cut the angle on the top of the side pieces to form the roof slope. I did this at

Now it’s it’s time to cut a 1/4” deep slot on the inside face of each side piece to receive the Plexiglas insert. A standard saw kerf is plenty wide enough to accommodate the thin 1/16” 1/16” thic thick k plastic plastic used used for this this project. Notice that the plans show that the slot is cut at an angle to provide an area in front of the Plexiglas window for the

Begin at ds theinto table by ripping enough fence boar boards 5”saw widths to complete comple te all the feeder kits you will require. When you do this don’t rip all the excess material

the table saw myImiter 10 degrees. To using be sure had fence good tilted support close to the blade I bolted an extension board to my mitre fence (photo 2).

seed to accumulate. the required 10˚ angle by runningAchieve the material over the blade with the sloped edge of the side pieces flush against the mitre fence.

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1

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 29

 

3

Remember that there are lefts and rights so it will be necessary to make half the cuts to the left side of the blade and half to the right so the slots match. The extension board you added to your fence earlier is even more critical for safety now that you are cutting along the length of the very narrow side pieces (photo 3). With the saw saw blade tilted 10˚, bevel the back edge of the roof panels to match the angle cut on the top of the side pieces. Next, apply a decorative decorative round-over round-over to the front edges of the roof parts at the router table using a 1/4” radius round-ove round-overr bit. The back panels panels receive receive a 1/2” diameter hole used for mounting the feeder and a 1 1/2” diameter hole to provide provide access to fill the unit with birdseed. The plans show the correct position for each. Save time by making up a full size template to help you quickly locate and mark the centre point of  the holes. To avoid tear out when drilling it’s a good idea to stop short of the bottom, then finish the hole by boring through from the other side. Complete the backs by slightly rounding the top corners at the bandsaw for a more finished look. Next rip the bottom panels to the required width but don’t discard the narrow scrap you cut off. This piece will be the right size to serve as the perch on the front of the feeder – there’s no waste with this project.

I’ve learned from experience that young kids often have difficulty pounding nails. They often miss,, whic miss which h can be painfu painfull for the fingers holding the nail – particularly when those fingers are my own. They also have a problem preventing the nails from bending or going in crooked. To solve these problems I decided to drill pilot holes for the nails. The holes are drilled slightly smaller than the diameter of the nails and are only necessary on the outside face of the project parts. To speed up the drilling process I made a full-size hardboard template for each part to use as a pattern.

at the top and the required number of  galvanized nails bound with an elastic band.

Time for Assembly On the night of the meeting we made sure we had plenty of hammers, exterior grade wood glue, rags and willing helpers helpers to lend a hand. The parents and grandparents that turned out did a great job holding parts together to keep them aligned while the kids pounded pounded in the nails, but more importantly they made sure the kids had fun and worked safely. When the kids weren’t working on their bird feeders they had the opportunity to visit a supervised area where they could try their hand at using some other common hand tools such such as a square, tape measure and hand handsaw saw.. Surpris Surprisingly ingly,, the kids seemed to get a great deal of satisfaction from cutting all the way through a board with a handsaw – most saved the scrap piece they cut off as a souvenir. s ouvenir. With all the wood parts complete we can now turn our attention to table the Plexiglas inserts. I cut mine using the saw with a standard 80-tooth combination blade installed. Proper eye protection is always essential in the workshop but is particularly important when working with Plexiglas because the material splinters easily.. Begin by ripping the Plexiglas into easily 4 1/4” widths then cut the inserts inserts to length using the stop block method described earlier. With With this done mark the opening on the bottom, then cut it out using using the scroll saw.. The plans show the location and size saw of the opening. Once you have completed one you can use it as a pattern for the others. To save save time at the meeting m eeting we sorted the t he parts, then bundle parts, bundled d them together together into individual kits using shrink-wrap. In each project kit we included a brief instruction sheet complete with the Girl Guide logo

30 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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By the end of the evening the room was filled with smiling young faces reflecting well-deserved pride in their accomplishments. Most had never used a hammer or a saw before but, but, judging from the reaction, I’m certain many many will be out in the workshop again.

1 1 1 1 1

5” x 7” x 5/8”

raftime Clockery  “ONE STOP CLOCK SHOP” 8 Mill St. Elmira Ontario N3B 2J9 Phone (519) (519) 669-4170 669-4170 Fax (519) (519) 669-8448 669-8448

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2 Sides

 For All Your Clock  Building Supplies 

Cedar

Back 5” x 9” x 5/8” Cedar Roof 5” x 6 1/2” x 5/8” Cedar Bottom 3 3/4” x 5” x 5/ 5/8” Cedar Perch 5” x 1”  (approx.) x 5/8” Cedar Clea Cl earr In Inse sert rt 4 1/4” 1/4” x 5 1/2” 1/2” x 1/16 1/16”” Pl Plex exig igla lass

 RICK CAMPBE CAMPBELL LL is is a writer and woodworke woodworkerr living living in in  London, Ontari Ontario. o. (519) (519) 668-1775 668-1775

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CANADIAN WOODWORKING 31

 

COMI CO MING NG EV EVEN ENTS TS

Free Guide Explains How to Specify North American Hardwoods and Finishes The Hardwood Council has published a new brochure, broch ure, calle called d The Finishing Touch, to he help lp professional building and design professionals more effectively specify hardwoods. The highlight of the 32-page booklet is a “Stain Guide” that depicts 21 North American American hardwoo hard woods ds in clear clear,, lig light, ht, medi medium um and dark  dark  stains. The brochure also covers hardwood finishing finish ing basics, basics, guidelin guidelines es for specifying specifying a factory finish and an A-to-Z finishes glossary. A handy chart also contains a complete list of  strength and mechanical properties for each of  the 21 hardwood species. brochure is Finishing Touch and can be ordered by visiting www.hardwoodcouncil.com. Or Or,, call or or write write The free

the Har the Hardw dwoo ood d Co Coun unci cil, l, P.O .O.. Box Box 52 525, 5, Oa Oakm kmon ont, t, Pa Pa.. 151 15139 39.. Phone (412) 281-4980 Fax (412) 323-9334. The brochure is part of the Hardwood Council’s popular Tips and Techniques series.

CARVIN’ KAMLOOPS POLE CARVING COMPETITION 2002 June 28,29,30, July 1 Canada Day Riverside Park, Kamloops BC, Canada

TECHNIBOIS  WOODWORKING  WOODWORKING SHOW  May 2,3,4, 2002 Quebec City City,, PQ (819) 845-8247

RICHMOND BC  WOOD CARVING CARVING SHOW  May 25,26, 2002 (604) 279-8441 www.canadianhomeworkshop.com

If you know of a  woodworking-related event, please let us know at  [email protected] 

BLADES ARE EXPENSIVE. Who would you trust yours wıth?  Who loo looks ks afte afterr your saw blade really does make a difference. With our unique exchange program, you are guaranteed a superior product every time!

any product displaying the Exchange-A-Blade logo. Take it home, use it and when it becomes dull or unusable for any reason, simply return it to your local lumberyard, Home Centre or hardware dealer and walk out with a brand new replacement under your arm. No hassle, no down-time, you’re in and out the door. Convenient, fast and fully guaranteed.

 With oth other er blad blades, es, you mus mustt first find a reputable sharpening shop, leave your blade and trust it will be resharpened to the original manufacturer’s specs. If you are lucky, you can return in a few days to So as we said to start with, pick up your old blade, with all would d you trust with it’s accumulated imperfections  who woul

T  h  e i r  rs      s

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blade e busines business? s?  With the Exch Exchange ange-A-Bl -A-Blade ade  your blad system, you simply purchase

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designtime

B Y  H ANK  E  E THIER 

rior to the construction of  anything, anyth ing, from china cabinets cabinets to shelves, shel ves, a blueprint blueprint or plan plan is very helpful. Blueprints help

assumes. The point is, don’t be afraid afraid to modify the plans plans to suit your your needs, tastes or equipment.

techniques used in mass-produced furniture are not reproducible in the home workshop. Indeed some of the practices used by manufactures are done so for ease

you to know what materials and equipment you will need, help you to avoid making makin g mistakes mistakes,, and can can be used used to estimate the cost of your project.

Furniture brochures and catalogues give you only one view of a unit and basic dimensions. You can still use this as a reference. If the description gives yo u th thee wi wid th th, h eig eigh ht, a nd nd de de pth pth,, a scale can be established from which other measurements can be closely approximated. approx imated. For example, example, if the width of  the unit is 1200mm and you measure the actual width in the picture at 40mm, 40mm, you know the scale is about 1/30th. Armed with this scale, you can now measure measure the drawer in the picture and multiply it by 30 to give you the real measurement. Be careful though when you measure lines that are at steep angles to the line you chose when establishing the scale. They may give a false reading. This is called “foreshortening”. The measurement will, in reality reality,, be longer longer than you have have calculated.

and speed of construction and are not necessarily the best way to construct furniture.

P

Where does one find such a thing? Ideas and plans can come from many places. There are countless woodworking books and magazines with many of them having scale drawings. Furniture brochures and catalogues can also be a source for plans. You can even go down to a furniture store and have a look for something that is close to what you want to build. The blueprints you find in magazines and books are good for a start. They give you an idea of how the unit is constructed. However,, you should still make an effort to However draw or sketch it again. This gives you the advantage of having built it once in your mind. As you are drawing, you have have to visualize how it is assembled. If you can draw it, you can build it. it. Also, Also, some of the the plans in magazines are made with the assumption that specific equipment will be used to construct the unit. You You may or may m ay not have this equipment. equipment. Or, perhaps you have better equipment than the blueprint

For those of us who have trouble visualizing how a piece of furniture goes together, togethe r, a trip to the local furniture store store is in order. Actually seeing how the individual pieces are put together will help you to plan your own unit. Be aware, awa re, how howev ever er,, that some some constru construction ction

THE ORIGINAL ONE PERSON ONE TRIP STAND

Once you know how the unit goes together and and you have a blueprint, blueprint, it is advisable to make a layout diagram and a material list. The layout diagram is a scale drawing of exactly how you will cut the pieces out of your sheet material. This is a crucial step in determining the quantity of  material required. You can try different ways of laying out the individual pieces you require to give you the least waste and easiest cutting pattern. Perhaps you can alter one dimension and save buying an extra sheet for that one small piece that t hat just won’t fit on one sheet. Once you know how much sheet material you need, a material list can be made. This This will include all items required to build the unit includi including ng glue, nails, sandpap sandpaper, er, sheet materi mat erials als,, sol solid id woods, woods, sta stain, in, fi finis nish h etc. From this list you can arrive at a cost for your unit.  HANK ETHIER is a furniture maker and refurbisher in Prince Albert, SK. Tel. Tel. (306) 922-3323 Fax (306) 763-3739 763-3739 email: [email protected]. [email protected] ca

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SS2875 Mitre saw stand CANADIAN WOODWORKING 33

 

questionsanswers

  B Y  J  J IM  K OUDYS OUDYS

I had someone purchase my bush lot. They measured the trees and quoted me a price on the trees.After they had taken down the trees they cut them into 8’ length lengths. s. It seemed seemed to me that there there was more there than they had had quoted. When I asked asked

Q

that come from the same tree you will see that, that, in log form, form, there is is more board board feet. How However ever,, the buyer buyer is is always always taking a chance buying standing timber, since the tree may may not yield the quality or quantity estimated. Buying standing

I have been looking for 2”quarter-sawn 2” quarter-sawn oak but find that it’s difficult to get. I have called several mills and few have had any. The few that did have it were expensive. Any suggestions or help in this area?

them about it, they said that they had quoted me on standing timber and not on the logs. What is the difference?

timber also involves the work of taking it down and removing and bucking the logs. When the timber is in log form, much of the work has been done and the buyer can tell the grade of the logs, which means they are taking less of a chance. It is easier to buy in log form. The buyer is not obliged to buy all the logs and doesn’t have to take the bad with the good. Sometimes buyers will offer more per board foot in log form than for standing timber since the chances of recouping their inves investment tment is better. Anytime you have a potential buyer walk your bush, have at least least two

First you must understand that getti get ting ng “t “true rue”” qua quart rter er-sa -sawn wn lumber (that is rings 90˚ to the face) is difficult at the best of times. As sawing sawi ng practice practicess go, it results results in in the greatest waste and it requires more attention and labour to produce – hence the higher cost. cost. Another Another factor, factor, whic which h affects the the cost of quarter sawn, sawn, is that the demand is not as great for it as it is for regular flat sawn. This means that the mill must sit on the investment longer. All of these factors contribute to making cutting, selling and buying buying quarter sawn sawn lumber less attractive attractive than other other cuts, for

A

others and compare toare make that thewalk prices being offered fairsure and reasonable. Be careful. The highest price isn’t always the best price. Always check the conditions of sale. Contact your local woodlot association and the last person the buyer did work for. When it comes to having someone buy your timber your best protection is education. The more you know about woodlot management, the better chance chance you have have of receiving a fair price and quality work.

exam example, ple, whic h, is highout demand demand. 2” can be 4/4 be quarwhich quartered tered, butinnine of ten. of people just want to rip it down to 2x2s to make table legs. Since only two faces of  the legs can show quarter the other two faces are flat sawn. Instead, Instead, purchase 8/4 flat sawn stock sto ck and rip it i t to 2”. You’ll You’ll get the same result for less than half the cost.

A

When a buyer estimates the value of standing timber, (that’s another name for trees) he measures around the tree at about breast height and then estimates the height of the tree to where the last saw log is. The last saw log is usually where the tree tree has majo majorr branche branches, s, maj major or crooks or lightning damage. The height will vary vary,, but from from that that he uses a standing timber scale to get an estimate of the amount of board feet in Using the estimated board feettheintree. the tree and the the quality of the tree, he will determine the price of the tree. When buying logs, the buyer will will measure the small end of the log and the length of the log to determine the board feet in each log. Each log is then graded and a price is determin determined. ed. In the case case of logs, logs, the buyer has a choice of different scales to use. The most commonly used scale is called the Doyle scale. Whenever you compare the amount estimated in standing timber and then measure the logs

5

Q

 JIM KOUDYS is the owner/operator owner/operator of of Kootur Kootur Lumber  in Smithville, Ontario. (905) 957-4217 [email protected] [email protected]

Reasons you should be using Circa 1850 Fast 1850  Fast Dry Polyurethane  1. It dries so fast fast you can re-coat re-coat in as little little as 2 hours 2. It ha has a non-yellowing formula that allows the beauty of your wood to shine shine through through 3. It has has an an extr extreme emely ly low odour  4. It cures cures to an an excep exception tionally ally hard hard,, durab durable le fin finish ish 5. You ge gett cash back on the the purchas purchase e of eith either er a 1 litre or 3.78 litre can

See all of our innovative products at www.swingpaints.com  www.swingpaints.com and and discover why Circa 1850 is 1850  is so much more than just a furniture stripper  34 CANADIAN WOODWORKING

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routertips B M  Y 

 ARK  E AT  ATON ON

Spring Removal  A  s I mentioned in our last issue, I am always asked at at wood shows how I adjust my router so easily easily.. Many woodworkers have plunge routers mounted in their router tables and can’t adjust the height of the routers as easily as they see me do it. The reason: reason: they have have not removed removed the the springs from the plunge mechanism. I will, therefore, therefo re, take you step-by-step step-by-step through removing the springs from most of the common routers on the market.

Step 3

Step 8

Lay the router on it’s back with the lock  mechanism down to the table surface.

Thread the large nut and the knurled slip nut over the threaded rod and turn them until they are about 3/4” from the top of the rod. Tighten with an adjustable wrench. Your Router is now ready to mount into your table and will be much easier e asier to adjust without the springs installed.

will look therouter Dewalt 625. IfThis you issue havewe another typeatof watch for it to be covered in future articles.

springs will be hanging from the router. (photo #3)

Step 4

With your body against the base plate, and your hands on the router, router, release the lock mechanism. The base will press against you and will start to slide off. (photo #2)

Step 5 When there is no pressure against you, grab the base and pull the base off. The

Step 6 Make sure that your router is always unplugged before attempting any procedures such a those listed in this article. SAFETY FIRST!

Step 1 Lay the router on it’s back with the threaded rod face up and lock it into position.

Step 2 Remove the large nut and the knurled slip nut that are at the top of the rod. (photo #1)

Begin pulling the springs out of the body and as you pull, bend them down a bit. bit. This will grab the two brass colored tubes inside the springs. They are inside the springs to keep the springs from coiling up on themselves. (photo #4)

Safety Note: These instructions are strictly the opinion of the author and do not reflect those of the manufacturer. Always refer to your owner’s manual for exploded views of your router and, if you don’t feel comfortable with these directions, do not remove your springs.  MARK EATON is founder of The National Router Academy www.nationalrouteracademy.com [email protected]

Last issue: Removing the springs from

the Hitachi M12V Next issue:

Removing the springs from the Porter-Cable 693

Step 7 Slide the base back into the router body. Make sure that the threaded rod slides over the horseshoe shaped body housing. With your router on it’s back and the lock down to the table, the two columns columns should slide easily back into the body.

1

2

3

4

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CANADIAN WOODWORKING 35

 

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dustcollection

B Y  C HESTER  V   V  AN  N ESS

Dust Collector Fans ust collector fans are material handling fans and, ideal id eally ly,, the they y shou should ld be designed to withstand the passage of not only saw dust but also chunks of wood and, perhap perhaps, s, the odd screw screw or nail. This This is the heart of your dust collector. Take a good look at it before buying your collector. Dust collector fans can be made of  various vario us material materialss including including steel, cast aluminum and plastic. If you look at how a unit is constructed you may see that there are plastic or steel grids over the inlet and possibly the outlet openings. These grids are there to stop you from putting your fingers into the impeller when the fan is running. However, However, they also cut down on the fan’s efficiency. In some instances, such as a plastic fan impeller impeller,, the grid is

available in steel, available steel, aluminu aluminum m or plastic. plastic. Avoid the plastic impeller if there is risk of  any large pieces passing through it. The aluminum impeller won’t create sparks if struck struck by metal debris, but it it does make the motor work harder. It lacks the flywheel effect created by the heavier steel impellers. The fan impeller used primarily in the air cleaner units is is a “forward-curved” “forward-curved” design. There are usually 24 to 64 blades. They operate at lower speeds than the material handling fans as they are just meant to move air. Because of their lower speed there is far less noise.

there keep largeand pieces of wood hittingtothe blades damaging thefrom fan impeller. If the fan has these grids o n the suction or discharge side you won’t have too much luck sucking shavings away from your thickness planer. In the case of one fan we tested the grids were plastic and resulted in the loss of about 40 cfm (cubic feet per minute) in flow for each grid.

obstructions? the escape? fan casing sealed so that fine dust Is can’t Most of the dust collector fan casings are of scroll type and have squared corners. The discharge end of the scroll is usually square graduating to a round opening. Look and see how it is built. The more gradual the transition the better. As with any pipe fitti fi tting ng for for dust dust colle collectio ction: n: the less less gradual gra dual the tran transiti sition, on, the more more the the resistance to flow and the poorer the performance (photo #3 & #4). Photo #5 shows not only the impeller (modified backward-inclined) but also the discharge transition piece. When purchasing a dust collector have a close look at the fan and ask what material it’s made of. Also ask what the “cfm” (cubic feet per minute) rating is for the unit. Find out if the rating is for the fan only or for the entire set-up as displayed. Some manufacturers quote “free air” ratings, rating s, which is is the rating rating of the fan without filters or ducting of any kind hooked up. Free air ratings are of no use to you, especial especially ly when you’re you’re trying to determine the size of air cleaner you need for your shop.

D

Fan Impeller Design In the photos you will see the two basic designs and their differences. Notice that one is a cast ca st aluminum impeller. impeller. Photo #1 shows a “backward-inclined” fan impeller. This design is very efficient and quiet quiet.. Howe However ver,, the blade bladess are numerous (usually 9 to 16) and because they are close close together, together, large pieces pieces of  wood will damage the fan impeller and housing (you may be able to see some evidence of this type of damage to this impeller). This design of impeller is capable of moving large volumes of air. Originally,, some of the manufacturers used Originally this type without the grids in front of them. After many many were damaged, they changed designs. Now the most popular design of impeller is the “radial “radial”” fan impeller impeller.. The one pictured is cast aluminum (photo #2). This design features blades that radiate straight out from the hub of the impeller. impeller. There are generally 6 to 10 blades spaced quite far apart.

Manufacturers switched type of  design because large piecestoofthis wood pass through thr ough easier easier,, caus causing ing less less damage. damage. Although this results in less air volume, they are generally stronger. They are Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

Fan Housing Construction You also need to consider the construction of the fan housing. Can the air flow smoothly through the fan housing and out the discharge without hitting any major

FAN FACTS FACTS:: • The smaller the blade blade area (regardless (regardless of  the diameter of the fan) the less the volume, • The noise generated generated by the fan is directly related to the speed of the fan and the number of impellers, • The noise is a function function of the air moving moving through the fan. If you have any questions about dust collection send them to Chester at: [email protected]

1

2

3

4

5

CHESTER VAN NESS is a Dust Removal Consultant  in Scotland, Ontario. (519) 484-2284 [email protected]

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 37

 

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Make your portable saws, routers etc work like professional shop equipment with ROUSSEAU stands & accessories! See full line of products and local dealers at: www. www.rousseauco.com rousseauco.com Trencon Distributors Ltd. (250) 338-4693 or (604) 590-5379

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Send Cheque or Money Order for $16.00 to (tax & shipping included)

FOREST FORE ST HI HILL LL STUDIO Box 578 Mount Forest, N0G 2L0 ON [email protected] Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 

Canadian Woodworking Home-made Jig Contest To enter, send in a picture or diagram (with an explanation) of your home-made woodworking jig. If Lou Peeters chooses your jig as “Canadian Woodworking’s favourit fav ourite”, e”, your jig will will be published in Canadian Woodworking Magazine. You will also al so receive a prize from one of our sponsors.

1 OF MANY  PRIZES DEWALT’S NEW XRP Heavy-Dut Heav y-Dutyy, 12v 12v,, Cordless Drill Model DW980K-2

Send a picture/diagram of your home-made jig and explanation to: Canadian Woodworking Jig Contest c/o Lou Peeters RR #7, Woods oodstock tock,, ON N4S 7W2

Enter now! Contest Conte st closes closes July 31, 2002. (Prizes have a retail value of approx. $250) Contest prizes will be awarded bi-monthly.

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INFORMATION IS THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL IN YOUR WORKSHOP! Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 5 ”  m  R a n do  n d e r  O r b i t  t a  a  l   S  l  2 95 D ) 1 a #S de l l   #  M (  o

CANADIAN WOODWORKING 39

 

bookreview 

B Y  MICHEL THERIAULT

25 Essential Projects For Your Workshop

T

his book is a compilation of  projects from a number of authors who have contributed to the magazine Popular Woodworking, and includes contributions from the editors

includes a table-mounted router. If  your space space is limited, you may want to consider these projects – either exactly as presented, or adapted to your your own needs. needs. Later in the book, another project focuses on how to make a more traditional

themselves.

woodw woodworking orkingsystem. bench, for those who don’t bench, need a mobile

Review:

This book book presents presents projects projects,, tips and techniques to improve how you use your tools and your shop. Since they come from a varie variety ty of authors authors,, the format format isn’t consistent between the projects, (which range from detailed step-by-step constr con struct uction ion wit with h photo photos, s, to basi basicc instruction accompanied by illustrations to aid you in making the project). In all cases, howev how ever, er, there is enough enough inform information ation needed to do the job. The projects themselves range from universally useful to those with very specific applications. Even if you don’t build them as-is, as-is, they should give give you lots of ideas and a good starting point for your own workshop. The book begins with solutions for a common problem among woodworkers – lack of space. The first two projects are for mobile, self-contained work benches benches with lots of storage storage and work work surface: surface: both incorporate a bench-top table saw and one

BOOK TYPE

Technique/Reference

LEVEL 

 All Levels

AUTHOR PUBLISHER

Compilation Popular Woodworking Books

SOFTCOVER, 8.5" x 11", 128 PAGES, $35.99 CDN

40  CANADIAN WOODWORKING

Several different tool holders are included, geared to general included, general storage as well as tool specific storage. storage. Again, Again, eve even n if you don’t need the ones illustrated in the book, the ideas and the construction techniques are widely adaptable to your own specific needs The router is one of the most versatile tools in your shop and this book has included incl uded not not one, but two standstand-alon alonee router rout er tables, tables, alon along g with two different different types of router fences. The second one is built with a tilt-up tilt-up table top, a useful feature for some routers which need good access to the underside of the table for adjustment or bit changes.

CONTENTS: Projects *The Little Shop That Could *Little Shop Mark II *Benjamin Seaton’s Tool Chest *Bullet-proof Bench *Practical Router Table *Shop Stool *Adjustable Saw Horse *Drill Press Table *Five Shop Helpers *Stanley Tool Cabinet *Lathe Tool Cabinet *Wall-Mounted Clamp

There are also jigs for both the table saw and the bandsaw. bandsaw. For the table saw, saw, there are twoeasier jigsaccura will help This you make eatable-top sier,, more acthat curate te cuts. Th is includes a mitre sled and a tenoning jig. The bandsaw jig is featured as a “master  jig” which allow allowss you to use use your your bandsaw bandsaw in more ways than you do now, now, includin including g parallel para llel curves curves,, saw pattern patterns, s, circ circles, les, etc. While it doesn’t include a fence, it can be easily added. In addition to the projects, there are a number of useful tips throughout the book. There are many very creative, creative, useful ideas which will help you organize your workshop and increase increas e your efficiency.

 MICHEL THERIAULT THERIAULT is a Canadian writer and  woodworker living in Guelph, Ontario www. woodstoneproductions.com [email protected]

Rack *Rolling Clamp Rack *Bullet-proof Bench *Stacking Storage Boxes *Hand Screws *Sharpening Kit *Tilting Router Stand *Table Saw Tenon Jig *Table Saw Mitre Sled *Sandpaper Press *Band Saw Master Jig *Dovetail Jig *Workmate Helpers *Circle-cutting Jig

Tips and Charts Storage Tips Quiet Tips Glue & Clamp Tips Peg-Board Tips Sanding Tips Shop Tips Troubleshooting Your Tools

Visit our website at: www.canadianwoodworking.com 

 

A m e  r i   r  B e s  i  c a  a ’   s t  ’s      t S i   i  n c  ce   e 1  9 4 6  6!    

Forrest Saw Blades

“You Can Count On Us For Quality, Performance, and Dependability!”  "When we established Forrest Manufacturing over 55 years ago, we committed our company to providing the very best products and services possible. "Since then, demanding craftsmen have come to rely on us for the finest quality blades and dados. They also count on us for the best in-factory sharpening available anywhere. Jim Forrest, President

"Forrest saw blades eliminate or reduce splintering, scratching, and tearouts.

Woo oodw dwork orker er II ALL PURPOSE – table table saws Sale 10% Off and portable circular saws. Price First Blade 12" x 40T x 1" $129 $116 10" x 40T (1/8" or 3/32" K) $119 $107 10" x 30T (1/8" or 3/32" K) $ 99 $ 89 $ 89 8 1/4" x 40T (3/32" K)* $ 99 8" x 40T (3/32" K) $ 99 $ 89 7 1/4" x 30T (3/32" K) $ 89 $ 62 5 3/8"x40Tx10mm (5 ( 5/64" K)** $ 89 $ 80

15% Off Second Blade $110 $101 $ 84 $ 84 $ 84 $ 59 $ 76

Also available: 14”x40Tx1” • 14”x30Tx1” • 12”x30Tx1” • 9”x40T • 9”x30T • 8”x30T(3/32”K) • 6”x40T(3/32”K). Call for prices. The 10”x40T earned the Editor’s Choice for the best performance regardless of price. American Woodworker April 1998, pp 68-69.

We make them of high corrosion-resistant C-4 carbide to provide the longest possible life between sharpenings. We also hand-straighten them for perfect flatness and an astonishing +/- .001" runout that gives you peak performance. And Forrest blades feature exceptional perimeter concentricity and super fine tooth grind to ensure the highest quality edges. "Our exclusive guarantee is another reason to have complete confidence in the products we offer! Purchase any Forrest blade or dado and use it for up to 30 days. If you are not completely satisfied for any reason, return it for a full refund. There's never

any risk to you. You have my word on it!"

Woodw odworke orkerr II  N e w ! Customized Wo For the advanced table saw operator. Ideal for joinery and special uses! 

Sale Price

10% Off 15% Off First Blade Second Blade

10" x 40T (1/8" K)

#1 grind for square cut box  joints.

$130

$117

$111

10" x 40T (1/8" K)

#6 grind for near flat bottom, easy feed.

$130

$117

$111

10" x 40T (1/8" K)

Dovetail joint grind. Specify angle & left or right points. points. See Fine WW12/01.

$130

$117

$111

thin kerf for precision 10" x 40T (5/64" K) Ultra work. Use stiffener plate. $139 10" x 20T (1/8" K) Fast feed rip for thick hardwood 

$125

$118

$ 85

$ 80

without burning, but finish is not smooth like WWII.

*For Sears & Makita **For DeWalt Cordless Portables

$ 94

Chop Master

Dado-King You get flat-bottomed grooves and no splintering–even when  crosscutting oak plys and melamine. This award-winning set  comes with six 4-tooth chippers (including 3/32” chipper), two 24-  tooth outside blades plus shims. Cuts 1/8” to 29/32” grooves. Sale 10% Off 15% Off  F R E E 10” Blade Runner Price First Set Second Set  $ 2 1 carrying case.  u e ! Protects and holds 6" set $269 $242 $229  v a l u up to 10 blades. Ships 8" set $289 $260 $245 with 6”, 8”, or 10” Dado sets. 10" set $349 $314 $297 Included free with your order! 12" set $449 $404 $382

Duraline HI A/T

Specially designed for sliding compound  miter, miter-chop, and radial saws. 7 1/2" x 60T x 5/8" Makita Cordless Slide  8 1/2" x 60T x 5/8" Hitachi, DeWalt, Ryobi.

10" x 80T x 5/8" 12" x 80T x 1"

Freud TR125  Delta, Bosch, Hitachi, Makita, Ryobi, AEG & all  Delta, Hitachi, Makita, B&D, Sears & all  Makita, Ryobi 

Sale Price

10% Off 15% Off First Blade Second Blade

$105

$ 95

$ 89  N E W!

$119

$107

$101

$139

$125

$118

$149 $134 $127 15" x 100T x 1" $199 $179 $169 Also available: 8 1/4" x 60T • 6 1/2" x 40T • 9" x 80T • 14" x 100T. 100T. Call for prices.

Woodworker I

Cuts melamine perfectly. available. Our best plywood blade. 220mm &S300mm ale 10% Off Price First Blade

15% Off Second Blade 10" x 80T (1/8" or 3/32" K) $159 $143 $135 12" x 80T x 1" (1/8” K) $181 $163 $154 14"x100Tx1" • 14"x80Tx1" • 16”x100Tx1” • 8" • 7 1/4" and othe others. rs. Call for prices.

Designed for radial arm.or  S ale 10%Blade Off tablesaws–fine crosscut. crosscut Price First 7 1/4", 8", 8 1/4" x 60T $109 $ 98 10" x 60T $129 $116 12" x 60T $139 $125 Also available: 9” x 60T • 14” x 60T. 60T. Call for prices.

15% Blade Off Second $ 93 $110 $118

All prices in U.S. funds

Two Easy Ways to Order Call toll-free 

Visit our internet store 

1-800-229-4814 OR stores.yahoo.com / forrestman forrestman CMR – Ron Collier Fax 989-684-0402

Western Canada: Call Sharp Tech, Inc. 877-228-0908 • Fax 403-225-3767 US: Call 1-800-733-7111 (On NJ, 973-473-5236) • Fax 973-471-3333

 N G –  I N  v  e  r   r   $2 7  75    O O  s I P  F  R E  E   E   S S H  P P  r d : ad5  d e O r  l  O  l l  e a se  a  le  l

A  p  s, p –  r  o rde r s D ado  –  he r  •  D O t h  $ $ 7  •    – –   e d    a a  l  3  b b  $ $     –  r   –  S a w  fe ne r  f fe  i f S t i  $ 9  ••  S

DON’T   SEE W HAT   Y OU   NEE D?

Call us f or  other  bla des and dampener  discs! *3 coupons at $5 each, use 1 coupon per blade.

$15 OFF* OFF* OUR EXP EXPER ERTT BLA BLADE DE SHA SHARPE RPENIN NING! G! Don’t take a chance with micro-chipped edges on your expensive wood! Our infactory sharpening preserves the life and performance of all types of carbide blades. In fact, Forrest Manufacturing represents the industry standard for fine quality sharpening. We process most orders in 3 to 5 days, and we’ll give you $15 IN DISCOUNT COUPONS* with your next order order for any blade or dado you own! (Please include return UPS of $7 + $1 for each additional blade.) Forrest Manufacturing Company 457 River Road Clifton, NJ 07014 © 2002 Forrest Manufacturing Company, Inc.