Calm Your Aggressive Dog

Unauthorized distribution, resale, or copying of this material is unlawful. No portion of this book may be copied or resold without written permission.

Copyright © 2011 Dog Training Institute. All Rights Reserved.

Table of Contents

Chapter 1 - Recognizing Aggression .................................................................... 3 Aggression or Something Else? ........................................................................ 4 Aggression vs. Stress......................................................................................... 6 Dealing with Your Dog’s Stress...................................................................... 7 Aggression vs. Play ............................................................................................ 7 Aggression vs. Games (Chase)........................................................................ 10 Chapter 2 - Calming Signals ................................................................................ 11 Chapter 3 - Why Dogs are Aggressive ................................................................ 14 Aggressive Breeds............................................................................................ 14 Aggression as a Result of an Event................................................................. 16 Trained to be Aggressive ................................................................................. 17 Chapter 4 - Types of Aggression ......................................................................... 18 Two Things to Do to Avoid Aggression........................................................... 19 How to Become Pack Leader........................................................................ 19 How to Socialize Your Dog ........................................................................... 21 What Every Dog Needs to Know ...................................................................... 23 Five Things You Must Teach Your Dog Whether He Is Aggressive or Not ... 24 Aggression Toward Other Pets at Home ......................................................... 29 Aggressive Leash-pulling or Lunging on a Walk............................................ 32 Aggression Displayed in a Forceful Stance on a Walk................................... 35 Fear................................................................................................................. 35 Stress ............................................................................................................. 36 Curiosity......................................................................................................... 37 Guarding, Territorial, and Possessive Behavior.......................................... 37 Situations with the Leash ................................................................................. 40 Fear of the Leash or Aggression toward the Leash .................................... 40 Play with the Leash ....................................................................................... 41 Aggression to Family Members ....................................................................... 41 1

Aggression to Friends, Guests, and Their Dogs............................................. 45 Aggression to the Owner or Trainer ................................................................ 49 Chapter 5 - Adopting a Rescue Dog with an Unknown Past Concerning Aggression and Possessiveness ........................................................................ 53

2

Chapter 1 - Recognizing Aggression What do dogs own? Primarily dogs consider themselves owners of: •

Themselves and the space around them,

•

Possessions such as beds, toys, bones, chew toys, leash, and food,

•

Home (and yard if they have one) and business (if they go to work with you), and

•

Humans (their owner and their family or pack, sometimes including other pets in the household).

Not surprisingly, these are the things your dog will want to protect or guard. Whether she is guarding you while on a walk or guarding her food from another dog in the household or keeping the cat off of her bed (or your bed), these are natural and normal behaviors for any dog! Your dog will feel threatened if another dog, a cat, or a human oversteps her boundaries on these things. Do not be surprised to hear a growl or see a snap in these situations. Do not scold your dog for that behavior in these situations. Your dog has as much right to her space and her possessions as you do. Either you can guard her rights and possessions, or she will do it herself. Is guarding the same as aggression? Sometimes a dog that is guarding can be aggressive about it. Some breeds tend to guard very aggressively. However, if the dog does not feel there is a threat to his ownership, he should not be acting in an aggressive manner. It is usually when someone reaches for the toy or bone he is using that you hear a low, threatening growl. For this reason, family and friends should be warned about any possessions your dog guards aggressively and children should be chaperoned around the dog when the dog has those possessions. A bigger problem is the dog who aggressively guards you. This often happens when a dog is raised with a single person and then that person gains a new friend or a significant other. If there is physical closeness, touching, kissing, sitting next to one another on the couch, etc., the dog will very often go ballistic. There may be barking, growling, rushing, even snapping or nipping. In rare cases the dog will go into full attack mode. These dogs may even be fine with the other person walking them, playing with them, stroking them, and feeding them, but the minute that person sits next to or touches their owner, look out! This dog needs to learn “leave it.” (See page 24.) He needs to spend time in his crate in the same room (where he can see the two people being together). This needs to happen every time. If that is the case, starting giving the dog a Kong® with peanut butter to occupy him in the crate. After a couple of weeks, try leaving the crate door open but still give the Kong with peanut butter. If that works, you can 3

probably transition to just giving him the Kong when you want to spend time together. If that does not work, he must continue to be shut in the crate during “together time.” Any dog that guards toys and possessions aggressively should be taught “give” (see page 25) as well as “leave it.” (see page 24) When someone else is in the house (such as a visitor or grandchild), those possessions will have to be hidden from the dog to maintain a safe environment. To identify what kind of aggression is your dog showing and learn more about dog aggression, fill in the journal http://www.trainpetdog.com/Journals/DogAggression_Journal.pdf

Aggression or Something Else? Aggression in dogs is a very broad topic. Unfortunately, many people say “my dog is aggressive on a walk” or “my dog is aggressive to other pets in my household,” but often do not understand the difference between aggression and play, or even calming behaviors used by dogs. Therefore, the beginning point is to understand and recognize aggression so that you can differentiate aggressive signals and behavior from various other behaviors. That way you will know which behaviors are problematic. Then you can learn how to change the problematic behaviors. A dog can be assertive or possessive without being aggressive. Sometimes curiosity is misinterpreted as aggression. Often requests to play are mistaken as aggression. Aggression is a means of communication used by dogs to say to other dogs, humans, or other pets: “I am in control” or “give me more space.” Aggression can also be a defensive mechanism, a reaction to another dog’s communication, or the perceived communication of a human. Because communication is a social behavior, dogs can be taught a different behavior. The best ways to change a dog’s behavior are through positive training and positive reinforcement. To differentiate among the ways of training, look at the chart below: Training

Positive Something positive is used to entice the dog to do the right thing. Example: a treat is held in front of the dog’s nose to get him to walk nicely on the leash.

4

Negative Something is used as a threat to keep the dog from doing something wrong. Example: a rolled up newspaper is shaken at the dog or smacked on the owner’s hand when the dog is caught urinating in the house.

Reinforcement

The dog does something that makes something good happen for the dog. Example: the dog sits and then gets a treat.

The dog does something that makes something unpleasant disappear. Example: the dog quits pulling on his leash, or walks along nicely, and quits being choked.

Correction

Good consequences or rewards are used during or immediately after correct behavior. Example: food, belly rub, praise, or play with favorite toy after behaving in the crate while the owner was at work

Bad consequences that occur during or immediately after a bad behavior. Example: a sharp “no” or a shake of a can with coins to stop a behavior such as barking or getting into the trash can

Punishment

The dog’s behavior makes something unpleasant or undesirable happen. Example: the dog jumps up to greet a visitor and receives a collar correction.

The dog’s behavior makes something desirable disappear or quit happening. Example: when the dog barks while looking out the window, the curtains are closed.

Is aggression ever appropriate? Yes, if the dog’s life or your life is being threatened. Imagine that you are walking your dog and you are mugged (attacked). If your dog is aggressive to or attacks your attacker, everyone would commend you for having such a loyal, protective, and courageous dog. The same would be true if your home (or business) were invaded. Or if your dog were being beaten or being dragged away from its home. Then there are the dogs that are trained to attack on command, such as those used by the police. Therefore, aggression is usually a term we use to indicate an assertive or attacking behavior in an inappropriate context. On the other hand, you might see same-sex aggression in some breeds of dogs which is absolutely normal, but totally undesirable in a household. Or, a dog might chase the elderly cat around the house for sport until the cat turns on him, hissing and growling and threatening him. At that point, the dog would use aggression and possibly injure the cat who had lived in that house for years before the dog arrived. These are examples of aggression in a “normal” context, but they are considered inappropriate by most human standards. Inappropriate aggression occurs in circumstances that do not pose a true threat to the dog. In most cases, the dog should have developed a different method for handling the situation. But, these aggressive dogs have not learned, or been taught, 5

different and better behaviors for these situations. Sometimes the dog did learn a better behavior, but suddenly reverted to an inappropriate behavior. Thus, you are reading these words to try to understand what behavior to teach (or reteach) your dog and how to teach that behavior to circumvent and eliminate the aggression. You desire to learn to modify your dog’s behavior – from aggressive to agreeable, from an attack mode to a calm, accepting mode.

Aggression vs. Stress Aggression is closely related to stress in dogs. Stress comes from an inability to cope with the current situation. Aggressive or defensive behavior is a symptom or result. The source of the stress can be the owner, something in the environment (such as an approaching dog), or some aspect of the situation (like a child rambunctiously leaning over to hug the dog). The signs of stress are not aggression, but may be precursors to aggressive behavior. Signs of stress may include one or more of the following: •

Sweaty pads on the paws (especially front paws)

•

Whining, growling, or frantic barking

•

Dilated pupils of the eyes

•

White rim on the eyes

•

Flared whiskers

•

Tense body or frozen stance

•

Rigidity of muscles around the eyes and mouth

•

Excessive salivation

•

Increased activity level like running around frantically

•

Disinterest in food

•

Pacing

•

Either shallow breathing or rapid breathing

•

Panting with the mouth drawn back

•

Stopped breathing (a precursor to biting)

•

Sudden hair loss or “dropping” of coat 6

•

Increased heart rate

•

Any flight or fight reaction

Dealing with Your Dog’s Stress Any time your dog’s stress escalates and calming signals do not work, your dog needs to be removed from the situation immediately! This can be done by simply picking up a small dog and leaving, but is not advisable since the small dog may turn on you and bite you out of fear and stress. Therefore, no matter what size your dog is, take the leash firmly and give the “heel” command (see page 26) and start walking in a wide curve, turning your body and your dog’s body away from the stressful situation. Use a calming but firm voice to give a “leave it” command (see page 24).

Aggression vs. Play It is not uncommon for dog owners to feel their dog is aggressive because he lunges at people and other dogs when he’s on the leash. Or, he goes ballistic when people come to the door. Or, he chases another animal around the house or yard, barking and growling. To know if this is aggression or play, you must learn to know the body language of your dog.

Aggression Body Language Tail level or down (perhaps tucked)

Play Body Language Tail up Tail wagging or twitching or held naturally

Tail rigid or stiff Head down, muzzle (nose) extended, neck elongated Ears down or pinned back or down very tightly Hair on spine standing up (piloerection) Head ahead of front paws, weight on all four paws with front paws planted for a lunge (weight will shift to back as dog crouches to lunge)

7

Head up, very alert Ears up, maybe forward May have hair raised over shoulders Front feet out, with front of body in a bowing position, weight may be on elbows

Teeth may be barred, lips pulled back horizontally, may be frothing or growling deep in throat

Lips may be parted, jaw is slack, may be slobbering, may be whining or barking

Eyes larger than normal, whites probably showing, very intent gaze or casting glances out of the corner of his eye

Eyes may or may not be larger than usual, very intent gaze

Will make himself look larger, stand on tiptoes with more weight to front feet

May make himself look smaller or more submissive

Leash can have some slack or be tight, but there will be little or no straining until the dog lunges

Often straining at leash with a constant pull punctuated by jumping

This is a preliminary aggressive threat. The dog’s ears are back, she’s giving a direct stare (big, round eyes) and her lips are pullover her teeth. The threat becomes more serious as she narrows her eyes a bit, raises her nose to make her muzzle level, pulls her lips back, and begins a low growl.

Now she has wrinkled her muzzle to expose her front teeth. She is growling loudly. Her front feet are planted as she prepares to lunge forward using her powerful rear end to propel her body.

8

This is the same dog showing submissiveness with a slack-mouthed grin, pinned back ears, and a lowered body.

This dog is growling and has her ears pulled back. Her eyes are rounded and her lips are pulled back over her teeth.

This is the same dog with a relaxed mouth and ears. Her normal eye shape is almond.

This is a frightened dog. Notice that it is cowering, Its ears are flattened, its tail is tucked. She is showing teeth and staring directly and intently at the dog who is invading her Bowing; asking for play; ears up and forward, tail space. Notice that her weight has shifted to her up. Notice weight is on back legs. extended forearms. This can also be a calming Here she signal the dog is giving. completes her lunge at the threatening dog. Note the position of all four legs. Her mouth is open as she is snarling and barking loudly.

To see more facial expressions and learn more about your dog’s posture, see http://www.pawsacrossamerica.com/interpret.html

9

Aggression vs. Games (Chase) Since dog-dog play is very similar to serious things like fighting, hunting, and reproducing, dogs have good ritualistic ways of demonstrating that their intentions are peaceful and fun-loving. Dog play is often initiated by a play invitation like a play bow or pawing the air (especially with puppies), and it seems to say, "None of the biting, stalking, or humping I'm about to do is serious.This is just fun, OK?" Even when dogs play very roughly, they are usually fairly relaxed; their lips usually cover their teeth (not drawn back in a snarl). Dogs often bark in play; this will usually be higher-pitched than that same dog's fear-bark or warning-bark. Sometimes dogs will mount each other in play. They are often excited, but not in a sexual way, and it seems to be a way to bond. It is occasionally a show of dominance, but not always. Some dogs appear to mount high-ranking dogs in an attempt to find their place in a group that is much more complicated than a straightline hierarchy. The classic play bow is the dog's invitation to play. The dog's tail and butt are in the air, and the shoulders and front legs are lowered. The dog's ears are up and forward, his mouth is open in a "grin," and his eyes are relaxed. In the photo to the left, one puppy is down on his back, and the other is still charging up on him. But note how relaxed the "down" puppy's legs are, and how neither of them is really showing his teeth (the corners of their mouths are relaxed, not pulled back). They will probably start bite-wrestling in a moment, accompanied by furious-sounding but innocent growling, and stop after a few minutes to companionably drink some water!

10

Chapter 2 - Calming Signals Dogs were meant to live in packs. Packs have very rigid social structures and each member of the pack communicates to all the other members through various behaviors and behavior patterns. Dogs use a variety of behavior patterns such as aggressive, calming, and submissive. A behavior pattern is a chain of behaviors recognized by other dogs as having a specific meaning. Turid Rugaas, a dog behaviorist from Norway, points out that dogs, as pack animals, have highly-developed ways of avoiding and diffusing conflict and aggression. Dogs, therefore, use "Calming Signals" to reduce stress for themselves and others they interact with (including humans). Calming signals include: Yawning, looking away, lip-licking, moving slowly, circling, sniffing the ground, becoming "distracted", sitting or lying down. Some of them are also the "appeasement display" behaviors that are developed to turn away aggression and threats of aggression - these are often confused with "the guilty look" that dogs may appear to be giving when scolded for doing something. Note that most of these are the opposite language from the directed attention that would be found in an aggressive interaction. There are at least 30 different signals that dogs give for calming a situation. Not all will be covered here. Sometimes a signal is so quick that you may miss it if you are not aware your dog uses it. Careful observation and experience will help you realize what your dog is signaling. Understanding your dog’s signals will allow you to work with him, praising him when he diffuses a situation and enforcing his calming behavior. When his stress escalates, you will know to remove him from the situation to avoid aggression. Nose Lick: A dog licks his nose as a sign to assure others of his peaceful intentions. Head down and sniffing: If a dog shows a sudden interest in smells on the ground, she is indicating that she is not in any way a threat to other dogs or people. Body shake: A full-body shake is often used by dogs to "shake off" tension and stress. It can usually be translated as "Whew, glad that's over!". Sometimes if you stroke a dog backwards they will shake themselves and so help themselves relax. Stretching or bowing: These are great ways to relax the dog and those around her. Yawning: Yawning is a calming signal your dog may use to try to calm you. If she is stressed, try yawning (at least opening and closing your mouth without speaking several times) to calm her. She will love it and relax. Looking away: Turning away or looking sideways, with or without licking, is a polite and friendly gesture. If a dog looks away, you too should look away. If approaching a timid dog or a caged dog, always approach sideways and look away to indicate friendliness. 11

Lip-licking: Lip-licking is very frequently used, often combined with looking away and blinking. It helps your dog diffuse a stressful situation and indicates that he is friendly but uncomfortable. Blinking: Frequently blinking (and winking) indicates that your dog is feeling stress. Slowed movement: As two dogs approach one another, you may see them slow down. You may think they are sizing each other up, but really they are sending calming signals. Very slow motion is calming to all involved. Watch their tails – they are probably up or at least higher than level which indicates a question mark or the message “I am friendly, are you?” Raising a front paw or pawing the air (or appearing to ask to “shake”): While this is a common demeanor for Retrievers, especially Goldens, you will see it with a variety of breeds as a way of signaling. A dog approaching two stressed dogs will often raise a paw as if to say, “Just a minute. Let’s relax and get to know one another.” Circling or curving: Mature, polite dogs do not approach another dog straight on, but curve as they approach. This may cause your dog to try to cross in front of you even though he is supposed to be heeling to you. Do not reprimand him, but pay attention to his signals. Becoming “distracted” or appearing to ignore a dog in the vicinity: This is a definite calming signal being sent to the ignored dog. The distracted dog purposely gazes off into the distance, probably turning his body sideways to the ignored dog. Freezing: A dog who is overwhelmed, especially if a larger or more aggressive dog comes up and starts sniffing the dog, will often freeze. It does not matter if he is standing, sitting, or lying down. Once the larger or more aggressive dog moves on, the other dog will relax. Sitting: A dog that either turns its back to you while sitting down, or simply sits down when another dog is approaching, is signaling. Your dog may use it when another dog is making him feel uncertain or when you yell to make him come. You can use this signal by sitting when your dog is stressed and cannot relax. Having your guests sit down before your dog meets them will help your dog relax. Lying down: Lying down is a stronger signal than sitting. It may appear your dog is ignorant of a potential situation, but he is diffusing it. Remember, not all "stress" is distress; some stresses are merely challenges that might even be enjoyed (think of learning something new or playing a challenging game). But if you see multiple stress signs, or if your dog gets "shut down," then the challenges might be too much and these may be warning signs. Make use of every situation where your dog is meeting other dogs. Go to the park or somewhere that dogs are off-leash. Watch what your dog is doing. Everytime your 12

dog meets another dog, look at him the second he sees the other dog at a distance, and notice which signals he is using. See http://www.canis.no/rugaas/gallery.php to see pictures of these calming signals.

13

Chapter 3 - Why Dogs are Aggressive Dogs can be aggressive for a number of reasons. They can come from a breed that has is prone to issues with fear, guarding, possessiveness, or aggression. They might have been abused. They may never have been taught any manners or socialized properly. Or someone may have “trained” them to be aggressive.

Aggressive Breeds There are dog breeds that tend to be aggressive more often than other breeds. However, just because a dog is from an “aggressive breed,” that does not mean a particular dog will be aggressive. It is more important to see the dog’s parents and to see the dog with its littermates than to judge its “aggressiveness” based on its breed. A puppy whose parent will not let you near its puppies will transfer that aggressive behavior to its babies. The bully of the litter will most likely try to bully everyone in your household. If you adopt a dog from your local rescue group or pound and it has some of one of the following breeds in it, simply be aware that it could have characteristics of distrust or aggressiveness. The best thing to do is to contact the rescue group for that breed and ask questions about how best to handle the dog. Rescue groups work hard to help dogs overcome their fears and aggressions and to help people learn to help dogs so that all dogs get a good home and all those who adopt a dog help that dog to be its best. Listed along with the breeds most likely to be aggressive is the web address of the rescue group. Ø Large Dogs •

Chow Chows are one-man dogs that are given to biting without warning. They’re also a bit ferocious around unknowns, and can be quite tenacious fighters.

•

Old English Sheepdogs are very protective of their owners so they might be aggressive if anybody comes too close to their masters. Other herding dogs like Collies and Heelers can be very protective of their masters too.

•

Rottweilers are extremely protective of their masters and home so they also make great guard dogs.

14

•

Doberman Pinschers are excellent watch and guard dogs with no additional training, so they need calm, firm, and consistent human family owners.

•

Alaskan Malamutes do not tend to be aggressive to people, but they have a very strong prey instinct, so small animals are not safe around the Alaskan Malamute.

•

German Shepherd Dogs are valuable in police work and as guard dogs because of their extreme loyalty to their families and homes. Aggression and attacks on people are usually a result of poor handling or training or allowing them to think they are the pack leader.

Ø Terriers •

Terriers, as a rule, have a very high prey instinct. Therefore, a terrier (any terrier) will chase and attempt to kill anything that moves. That is what they have been bred for over a couple hundred years! Watch your cats and ferrets and pet rabbits around a terrier.

•

Jack Russell Terriers are feisty creatures who require early training to prevent long-term biting and digging problems.

•

Giant Schnauzers are very dominant. They often challenge adults, particularly strangers.

•

The Pit Bull Terrier accounts for the most mauling’s, injuries and even deaths to other animals and people. They are the breed that is covered the most in the news when it comes to dog attacks. Of course it is not usually the dog’s fault when they do attack because it’s purely their own animal instincts, so attacks can usually be a result of their irresponsible owners. However, Pit Bulls are ‘generally’ quite gentle and can make a well loved pet.

Ø Medium dogs •

Cocker Spaniels often suffer from a dangerous genetic disease known as “rage syndrome.” This syndrome causes spontaneous violent action not only against strangers, but also family members. 15

•

Boxers tend to be very protective of their homes and families. They should be taught to “leave it” around rodents, cats, and ducks and chickens.

•

Hounds, as a rule, will chase prey (anything that moves). They are not aggressive, but they are chasers!

Ø Toy Dogs •

The Papillon is fiercely loyal of their owners – to a fault. They can be quite possessive and standoffish to strangers.

•

A Lhasa Apso often gets quite cranky around kids.

•

Chihuahuas aren’t too fond of kids so they also make it into our list of most aggressive dog breeds. They’d rather be with adults than play around with tots.

•

Toy Poodles bite people and other animals out of self-defense. Unfortunately, ‘playing’ according to you may be perceived as a form of ‘attack’ to them.

•

Dachshunds aren’t known for their patience and are quite quick to ‘snap.’

•

The Pekingese isn’t all that tolerant of strangers and can be aggressive little ‘ankle biters.’

Aggression as a Result of an Event The following events can lead to acts of aggression: •

Anxiety, fear, or a phobia

•

Lack of structure/leadership

•

Lack of proper exposure to other dogs during socialization

•

Early imprinting by an aggressive parent, especially mother

•

A traumatic experience

•

Abuse from owners

•

Witnessing abusive behavior to a parent or littermate 16

Trained to be Aggressive Some people get a dog and decide he should be a guard dog, so they attempt to train him themselves to be aggressive. Most true guard dogs do behave aggressively unless the given a command or put into a very specific situation. However, people who do not understand how to train or work with a guard dog will attempt to elicit aggression in a wide variety of situations, most of which should not require aggression. Then, when the dog attacks someone he should not (perhaps the owner or the owner’s child), the dog is placed in a shelter. Anyone who attempts to adopt that dog is going to have his hands full in trying to retrain that dog. This is a dog that will take a very special owner with lots of experience with dog training and lots of patience.

17

Chapter 4 - Types of Aggression

All aggressive behavior has an underlying cause or motivation. You need to figure out the motivation in order to eliminate the aggression. If you cannot figure it out or create a plan you can carry out to successfully eliminate the aggression, you must call an animal behaviorist to help you before someone gets seriously hurt. Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it’s your dog’s perception of the situation, not the actual situation, which determines your dog’s response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog may bite you because he believes he’s protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs. Most aggression seen in dogs is based on fear. Protective, Territorial, and Possessive Aggression (Guarding Resources): Protective, territorial, and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources – home, toys, food, owner and family. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property, and that “territory” may extend well past the boundaries of your yard. For example, if you regularly walk your dog around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, he may think his territory includes the entire block. Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals who are perceived by the dog as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys, or other valued objects, including items as peculiar as tissues stolen from the trash or owner’s purse. Redirected Aggression: This is a relatively common type of aggression but one that is often misunderstood by pet owners. If a dog is somehow provoked by a person or animal he is unable to attack, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. For example, two family dogs may become excited, and bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard; or two dogs confined behind a fence may turn and attack each other because they can’t attack an intruder. Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog’s social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and may view their human families as their social group or “pack.” Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or “pecking order” is established.

18

Two Things to Do to Avoid Aggression When you have an aggressive dog, you need to do two things: Ø Become the pack leader Ø Socialize your dog

How to Become Pack Leader Every human in your household has to become higher in the pack than the dog. This is not mean, nor does it mean being dominating. It is simply using body language to help the dog understand that the humans are higher in the pack order than he is. He can still be friends with everyone and may even sleep with you or one of your children, but only on the humans’ terms. This is especially important with breeds or individual dogs who are prone to aggression. Here are some things to remember: 1. Do not tolerate growling or barking or talking back. (Teach your dog “Quiet.” See below.) Talking back must be dealt with swiftly by placing him in a room away from you and gating the room so he cannot get to you. This is a time out just as you would do with a child. If he barks, growls, or talks back, use a shake can (coffee can with coins in it) and say “NO” sharply and pick him up and take him to the bathroom or whatever is his time out room (not his crate since it is a “safe” place) and shut him there for 15 minutes. When he comes back out, repeat the procedure when he does it again. If growling and barking are done when the dog is on a piece of furniture, he must not be allowed on the furniture. 2. Never allow any biting or nipping or mouthing. Use a shake can (coffee can or bottle with coins in it), then say sharply or gruffly, “No bite.” If you have to repeat it, take him to a time out place as above. 3. Never let your dog(s) go through a door ahead of you. You may have to put your dog on a leash and keep him right with you as you go about the house. If he runs ahead of you into a room, pull him back and make him “sit” and “wait” and then make him “heel” to go through the door. 4. All attention that is given to the dog is on the human’s schedule and not the dog’s schedule. Do not let the dog tell you when to play by pushing a toy at you. Always say “not now” and make the dog lie down. Then, if you are willing to play, release the dog (say “free”) and send him to get the toy to play, using a command like “get your toy.” Games of fetch or any play should be started and ended by the human. 19

5. Beware of playing “tug-of-war” with your dog. This allows him to become dominant. It also loosens his teeth. It allows him to “win” and teaches him to growl and to pull objects away from you and run away with them, refusing to drop them on command. These are all bad behaviors. It also reinforces biting and barking behaviors. 6. Teach your dog “Give” or “Drop It.” Practice by giving the dog a toy or ball (or throwing it for them). Make the dog “sit” and then say “Give” and take the object out of the dog’s mouth. If he jumps up and runs away with the object or growls or holds on very tightly, you must enforce the “give” by getting the dog and bringing him and the object back to you and putting him on a sit (with his leash on). Pinch his nostrils closed so he has to breathe through his mouth and say “give” and take the object. He must learn to “bring” and to “give” on command. 7. Do not let your dog sleep in your bed. This signals to him that he is Alpha. You can give him a bed in your bedroom, but make him sleep in his bed. Otherwise, he is shut out of your bedroom, preferably in his crate. If the puppy is under 6 months, he should be sleeping in a crate at night anyway. Once he reaches six months, you could substitute a dog bed for the crate for sleeping. 8. Do not let your dog jump at you or anyone else. Jumping up on you is a dominance issue with a dog. Do not let a 65-pound Retriever jump on you, and do not let your 5-pound Chin jump on you. Teach him the “floor” command and enforce it. (See page 42) 9. And if he is a small dog, don’t let him jump into your lap when you are sitting down (watching TV, working at the computer, visiting, eating) until you have given him permission. That means that if he jumps in your lap, you must set him down off your lap and say very firmly “NO” and hold him on the floor for a full minute. Then say “come up” (you could pat your lap and say “ok”) to give him permission and let him come up on your lap. He must always look at you and ask permission and be granted permission before coming up. If you allow him to sit on the couch next to you, use the same “permission granting” procedure. He must know that you own your lap, your chair, and your couch and you sometimes permit him to share them. At no time should he be allowed to growl or to snap at a person or dog while he is on your lap. Again, you may need to use a time out if a “NO” does not work. 10. Dogs are not allowed to eat when people eat. Feed the dog at one or two specific times (the same every day). Make him wait until you put the bowl down and say “Eat your food” before he eats. He needs your permission. Do not ever give him food from your table while you are sitting at the table. If, after you have eaten and cleared the table, you want to put a bite in his bowl, that is okay, but again he must be given permission to touch it. In many cases, it is advisable to not let the dog into the room where the people are eating. Feed him before you start to prepare your food or after you have finished eating. 20

11. Do not greet the dog immediately when you enter the house. Ignore the dog at first. After laying down anything you’ve brought in, then greet the dog in a low-key manner. If he tends to jump up to greet you, you may kneel to greet him. 12. If the dog is lying in your walking path through the house, make him get up and move. If he is standing in your lap in a proud manner, make him sit or lie down or put him on the floor. Never have a staring contest with your dog. If your eyes do meet, he must look away or blink first. Being the pack leader is not being mean to your dog. It does not necessitate yelling at your dog or smacking your dog. Do not hold his head, pinch his ears, or shake any part of his body at any time. Your body language will tell your dog that you are the leader. Each person in the household must project pack leader body language – even fairly young children can be taught to work with the dog in this way. All humans are above dogs in our packs.

How to Socialize Your Dog If you get your puppy from a breeder, the breeder should have started socialization with him. Whether he has had a good foundation laid or not, you need to really work with your dog on socialization. This is the basis for all good behavior. It is a fun way to spend time with your dog, yet make a big difference in his knowing your expectations. It will also give you several ways to observe how your dog reacts to various situations. When you take your puppy out of your home and yard, people will want to pet it and make over it. Unfortunately, all puppies seem to be cute. You do want people to approach your dog and you want your dog to get used to a variety of people. However, you need to be the judge of who does what to your dog, so do not be afraid to say “I’m sorry but he has already had a lot of handling today, so he does not need another hug.” Or you can say “You may say hello to the puppy, but we are doing some work right now.” When you allow someone to approach your dog, ask them not to bend over but to kneel or squat to the dog’s level. Have them put a hand out with either the palm up or with the palm down but with the fingers pointed down. That way your dog can smell their fingers and palm or the back of their hand. Usually he will not be afraid in either of those positions as they cannot pat his head directly without his meeting them first. Do not allow your dog to jump on or lunge at people. This is usually accomplished by keeping him on a leash and making him “sit” while the greeting takes place. Children should be taught to ask an owner if it is okay to pet his or her dog before approaching the dog. If a child asks, always thank the child for asking and then tell them “yes” or “no.” Teach children to approach the dog correctly. 21

Whether your dog is a puppy or a six-year-old rescue, you need to get your dog used to a variety of noises and you need to see his reaction so you will know how much work you will have in order to overcome any noise fear he has: • Make sure your puppy (dog) hears household noises like the vacuum, doorbell, dishwasher, washing machine, dryer, TV, and radio. • Expose your dog to other noises such as various lawnmowers, airplanes and helicopters, sirens, fireworks, and thunderstorms. • Take lots of short rides – 2-3 times a week take your dog with you to run errands, go through a drive-through window, stop at the vet, go to a park, etc. • Take a longer car trip each month. Take your dog on a trip that takes an hour or more of riding some time each month - to a park or outdoor festival or other event where dogs are allowed. Introduce your dog to as many different animals and people as you safely can: • With your dog safely on a leash, let him meet other dogs, cats, horses, llamas, etc. Remember that animals meet nose-to-nose. Many dogs then sniff the new animal’s rear end, so give him a chance to do that unless the other animal objects (growls), but after a few seconds, pull him away and say “be nice.” • Take your dog (on a leash with a slip collar) to a strip or outdoor mall, to a nursing home, into a business building that allows dogs, in an elevator, on various types of stairs, etc. • Allow your dog to see and meet people of different ethnicities. The dog will be exposed to a variety of voices, gestures, smells, and clothing as well as the peoples’ reactions to dogs. • Men, women, children of various ages, and older people should be included in your dog’s early experience. Some dogs are very fearful of tall people or people with deep or gravely voices. • People wearing hats, glasses, flip flops, or skirts sometimes scare dogs who have not seen them before. Your dog should also be exposed to people who smoke, who tap their fingers, etc. Make sure his experience includes people in wheelchairs and using walkers, canes, or crutches so he learns to be calm and careful in those situations. Puppy kindergarten or puppy classes are another great socialization tools. They allow your puppy to be with other dogs and people in a controlled environment. Many community centers and pet stores offer a 4-week, 6-week, or 8-week puppy class. You may even learn some beginning commands like “heel” and “sit.” Always watch your dog carefully in new situations. If he shows fear, do not pet him or say “good boy.” Instead, cheerfully say “don’t be silly. That’s just a cat.” Let your dog 22

approach new experiences on his own terms and don’t force him. You want these to be positive experiences. Socializing a rescued dog who is afraid in some of the above-mentioned situations will take much patience and repeated exposures. You may have to break the socialization into “baby steps.” For instance, a dog that is afraid of men will have to have many positive experiences meeting many men in many situations. You may want to invite one male at a time to your house. Each time put the dog on his leash. Provide treats outside the door for the male to pick up and bring in with him. Then have him kneel to hold a treat out to the dog. If the dog shows signs of aggression, make him sit while you take the treat from the outstretched, open hand and give the treat to the dog. Repeat several times. He may never trust that person on the first meeting enough to take a treat. However, if he meets the same person with treats again, he may be more willing to get close to the outstretched hand. (Note: If he is still very hesitant or fearful or aggressive, try really smelly treats (like cooked chicken or beef or bacon.) If he still will not accept a male who is kneeling, keep him on a leash and have the male sit in a chair or on the couch. Keep the dog on a leash and let him see that the male is not going to hurt him. Praise him for not growling or hiding. Use a treat to get him to sit where he can watch the person. It could take 2-3 meetings before he becomes brave enough to work his way closer to the person. Just talk to each other and pretend to ignore the dog (do not look directly at the dog). Once the dog gets closer to the person, he can extend a treat and drop it on the floor. He may have to do this several different times. If you feel your dog is trustworthy, you can drop the leash but leave it on the dog so you can grab it again if necessary. Only after the dog becomes somewhat friendly to the person sitting or kneeling should you introduce the dog to the person when he is upright (standing). Be sure to let the dog sniff the person’s shoes and pant legs to know that it is the same person he has known. You may have to repeat this tedious process many times with a dog who has been abused or frightened by a previous owner. However, your patience will pay off!

What Every Dog Needs to Know Every dog should be taught to pay attention to you when you ask him to do so. There are several ways to get your dog’s attention if he is growling or barking too much to realize you are asking for his attention. However, the ideal is to have him focused on you and aware of you and your desire for his attention at all times.

23

Pay Attention to Me There are several ways to try to get your dog’s attention. •

Put some beans or coins in a pop can and shake it.

•

Use a squirt gun.

•

Use a whistle or train whistle.

•

Bang on a pan with a spoon.

•

Ring a bell or cowbell.

The main thing to remember is that getting your dog’s attention is only the first step. Then you must immediately give a command. And that command has to be one your dog is trained to know and obey. So you must do your duty training your dog.

Five Things You Must Teach Your Dog Whether He Is Aggressive or Not These five things are critical for good manners and necessary to make sure you and your dog can co-exist. None of them is hard to teach. Each should be taught within the first six weeks you have your dog – whether he is a six-week-old puppy or a fouryear-old rescue. Even if he has previously been obedience trained, he may not have or remember the training on these commands. 1. “Leave it” 2. “See me” 3. “Give”’ or “drop” 4. “Heel” with “sit” 5. “Sit-stay”

“Leave It” Teach the dog “leave it” by putting your dog on a leash – a choker collar and lead. Hold onto the leash and throw 3-4 treats on the floor. When your dog goes to get or eat a treat, say firmly “leave it” and jerk the dog back. Give him a treat he really likes such as a tiny piece of chicken. Then relax the leash and let him start after the treats again. Jerk him back and say firmly, “leave it.” Praise him (“good leave it”) and give him the really good stuff. After doing this 3-4 times, pick up the treats and tell your dog “free.” Then give him the really good treat from your hand. 24

This is a great command to use at home for a dog that barks at everything he sees out the window. It is also good for the dog that chases cats or harasses an older dog. “Leave it” is a great command to use if you drop a pill or drop food you are fixing or eating. The best part of this command is that it becomes both a mental and a physical command. Once the dog really learns it, he must not only leave the object (or animal or person) alone, he must also quit thinking about it! Once he leaves treats on command (without jerking), use toys and people food as practice objects. If you do this 2-3 times a day, the dog will reliably leave things alone on command in a week. It is also very good to use on walks to keep your dog from picking up fast food wrappers, gum, candy, dead animals, etc. Another use of it on the walk is to keep your dog from lunging to visit with other dogs or people. You will have to anticipate its use – like when you see a dog up ahead, give a quick jerk and command “leave it” and keep walking. A few seconds later, as the dog gets closer, repeat the jerk and command. As you pass the dog, you may have to repeat the jerk and command 2-5 more times.

“See Me” “See me” is a game that keeps your dog watching you and teaches your dog to come to you whenever you ask. This is a type of “come” command but is a lot less formal. Take tiny treats in your pocket. Throughout the day or evening, call “BUSTER, SEE ME” and when he comes to you, give him a treat. Do not go to him. He only gets a treat and praise if he comes and gets it. Then give him your release command – “free.” Go different places in the yard or house and call “Buster, See me.” All he has to do is come to you. He gets a treat and praise. This is different from “come” where he has to come and sit straight in front of you and then “by heel” to get ready to “heel.” The “see me” command can be used any time—as a distraction, as a way to get him into the house, as a way to get him to go to his crate, etc.

“Give” or “Drop” Using a dowel rod with a Nerf® ball on each end, put your hands over the balls and offer him the dowel rod, making him take it in the center. If he refuses to take it, go back to a toy or a chew toy he likes. Once he takes it, praise him. Then use the command “give” – the difference between “give” and “drop” is that “give” puts the object into your hand and “drop” puts the object on the ground. Repeat this several times a day. Once your dog does a “give” or a “drop,” then you can start practicing it with his possessions – toys, Nylabone®, chew toys, ball, and rope toys. This will help him to quit being so possessive of these things.

25

“Heel” and “sit” This is the common command used when walking with the dog's shoulder next to the owner’s leg. This is a command demanding action from your dog, so use the dog’s name at the beginning of the command each time you say it. Give the command loudly and clearly in a bright but firm tone of voice. Begin teaching "heel" by placing your dog on your left side using a training collar and 6-foot leash (lead). Make sure the training collar is on the dog correctly. It should come straight across the top of the dog’s neck and through the dead ring so that when you jerk and release using the lead it will pull over the top instead of around the bottom of his neck. Hold the lead tightly with your right hand and loosely with your left. (Bunch or fold the lead in your right hand; never wrap it around your hand.) Begin walking, left foot first, and give the command "Tippy, heel.”Pull and release the lead with your left hand as you move your left foot forward. If your dog begins to pull ahead or lag behind, pull and release and say “Tippy, heel.” Use the command "Tippy, heel" every time you jerk the lead to move him back into the proper position. Take 10-15 steps and stop. Stop on your right foot and bring your left foot up to your right foot. Your dog will learn to follow your left foot. Your dog should sit (see “sit” below). If he does not, pull up on the training collar using the leash and push down on his hindquarters while saying “sit”. Insist that he sit straight (parallel to you). Start again with a “Tippy, heel” and step off on your left foot. Take 15-20 steps and stop. Vary how far you go so your dog does not come to expect a certain distance and a stop. Sometimes you will go 12-15 steps, sometimes 15-20, sometimes 20-30, etc. Always insist on an immediate straight sit when you stop. Make frequent stops and turns to keep your dog paying attention. Once your dog begins understanding this exercise, he will watch your leg to make sure he is heeling. Once he understands straight lines, it is time to start turning corners. Turn left, gently pushing him as you turn if need be. Give the command "Tippy, heel" every time you turn to make sure you have his attention. When you turn right, you will have to do several short jerk and release movements along with the command “Tippy, heel” each time to get him to keep up with you. If your dog is not paying attention, do an about turn (U-turn), keeping your dog to the outside. You will turn to your right (basically on your left foot). Using short jerk and release movements and repeated commands, keep your dog next to your leg. Each time your dog walks next to you nicely or sits, give him lots of praise. Sometimes include a small treat with the praise. Sessions should be no more than 20 minutes the first day and 15 minutes two times a day thereafter. Don’t forget to give your dog a drink and an opportunity to potty both before and after your training session. Your dog should be able to learn this command in about a week's time. 26

Using a lead, have your dog at your left side. Use the command "sit" as you pull up on the lead with your right hand, and gently "push" his rear end down with your left hand. With most dogs, the "push" needed will only be a gentle guiding. As soon as he is in the sitting position, praise him and stroke his side or under his chin. If your dog is large enough that you can easily reach under his chin, that is best as it forces him to look at you. Do this each time you stop while heeling and he will soon not only understand what sit means, he will learn to do it each time you stop without being told. If you have a very large dog that cannot be manipulated into a sitting position when you try to push his rear end down, you may need a second person to assist you the first few times. Pull the lead up and back to help "push" him into a sit position. “Sit-Stay” When you first teach the sit-stay, you need to practice inside the house or garage or in a fenced area. You want control and you do not want distractions when you start teaching a command. Start teaching ‘sit stay’ by teaching ‘sit.’ When you say ‘sit,’ your dog should sit with its right shoulder next to your left leg. If she does not, pull up on her choke collar sharply. At the same time, reinforce this by pressing down on her rear end. On larger dogs, you may have to pull up and slightly back to pull their front feet slightly off the ground and throw their weight to the back. Once your dog is sitting, you can give the ‘stay’ command. It is usually given both as a command and a hand signal. The hand signal for ‘stay’ – no matter what position the dog is in – is the open hand, fingers together, palm facing the dog, in front of the dog’s face. The first few times you give the stay command, you will only step in front of the dog, holding onto the leash. If your dog starts to get up, you will have the leash up fairly close to the dog’s neck and can pull sharply up and back to throw the dog back into a sitting position. At the same time, say, “No, Annie. Sit.” Then give the ‘stay’ command and hand signal again. “Stay.” After 10-15 seconds, still holding the leash close to the dog’s neck so that you have complete control, step to your right and walk around your dog until you get back to the heel position. Wait a couple of seconds and then free your dog and give lots of praise. You can even give a treat at that time. After doing this a couple of times a day for 3-4 days, try stepping back from the dog’s nose a step or two while the dog stays. Once the dog stays in the sitting position for you to be a couple of steps away, start going to the end of the 6-foot leash. Continue this for several days. Start lengthening the amount of time your dog stays until it is 3 minutes. Don’t forget lots of praise. Do not praise your dog while she is in a ‘stay’ because that often encourages them to be excited and get up and come to you or run around. 27

If your dog does get up during her ‘stay,’ walk over to her, take the leash and say “No.” Use the leash and your hand if necessary to put her back into a ‘sit’ in the very same place. Once she is sitting, repeat ‘stay’ and walk to the end of the leash again. Once your dog stays reliably for 3 or more minutes, vary the amount of time your dog is on a ‘sit stay’ so that the dog does not anticipate that it is about time to be free. Sometimes do it for 2 minutes, then one day do it for only 20 seconds but do it three different times during the day. Another time do it for 5 minutes. You will now drop the leash and take two more steps backwards for the three minutes of the ‘stay.’ Eventually you should be able to take the leash off and walk 30 feet away and your dog will stay until you return and ‘free’ him. You can continue to practice this until your dog will stay when you are out of sight. An adult dog should be able to ‘stay’ on a ‘sit’ or ‘down’ for 30 minutes with you out of sight. I know that sounds like a lot and most of us have no need for our dogs to do that, so that is not necessarily our goal, but it is not an unreasonable expectation.

28

Aggression Toward Other Pets at Home This article will help you: •

Discover the 5 essential techniques you must use to stop your dog from pinning down your other dogs or chasing your cats, and

•

Learn 3 proven methods to teach your dog to happily play with your other pets and not to dominate them by barking, jumping, or growling.

True aggression to other animals in the household is one of the toughest aggression problems to solve. The issues involve the fact that the animals are in the same household all the time so get endless practice antagonizing each other and that there is little relief from the problem. Even more important for you, the human owner, is the issue of having to train or retrain all the animals involved while constantly managing the environment to prevent further aggression. G-r-r-r-r . . . very difficult and challenging. Every addition or subtraction of a dog or another animal (such as a cat) from the household will cause problems with the dogs (and cats and other animals) in the household. Suddenly everyone’s position in the hierarchy changes and everyone is vying for the spot they want – top dog. Aggression quickly becomes much more than growling, snapping, excessive salivation, or piloeretion reflex (hair standing up on the back of the neck and back). Aggression is a fight that is designed to kill the other animal very quickly – going for the throat and/or eyes and hanging on and shaking the other animal until death occurs. When you have animals that are this aggressive toward each other, you must recognize the signs and nip the aggression in the bud very quickly. Otherwise, you must try to break the dogs off each other by inserting a thick piece of wood in each dog’s jaws and prying them from each other. Then they have to be closed in separate rooms. A breaking stick has a thick end and a thin end. The thin end is forced into the dog’s mouth and then the stick is twisted so that the thick end pries the dog’s mouth open. If you do not have a breaking stick, other objects can be used. However, be aware that something such as a screwdriver could do a great deal of damage to the dog’s mouth and teeth. Also note that your hands and fingers should NEVER be used! A dog that chases another dog may be playing; a dog that chases a cat in the house may also be playing. However, a dog chasing another dog or cat in the household may also be aggressive. What you have to remember is that all dogs have a prey drive and in some breeds that prey drive is much higher than in other breeds. Terriers, for example, have very high prey drive and may never learn to leave the cat alone if it moves. Herding dogs, on the other hand, may not care at all about a cat, but may become very aggressive toward a dog entering their territory. If this is true 29

aggression, here are five essential techniques you must use to stop your dog from pinning down your other dog or your cat(s). 1. It is natural for puppies to play with other pups, you, cats, toddlers, kids, etc. in a chase, pounce, wrestle, bite manner. The pup needs to learn, early on, that it is not appropriate to chase and bite the baby or the cat. He must learn self-control. Teach him “leave it.”(See page 24) Other obedience training such as “heel” and “sit” and “stay” will also help with self-control. See pages 26 and 27. 2. The chase itself is extremely reinforcing. The dog enjoys an adrenalin high from the pursuit and the success of capture is a jackpot which makes curbing the desire to chase difficult if not impossible in some dogs. Behaviors that are rewarding are more apt to be repeated. Re-training a dog with a long reinforcement history will take dedication and time and monumental amounts of management. Find ways to make the chase less exciting and the catch undesirable. See below for ideas. 3. Leadership is essential. Why follow the direction of someone you don't respect or trust? If your dog won't keep his face out of your dinner plate and ignores your pleas for compliance to commands, what hope do you have of telling him to leave the cat alone? Learn to be the pack leader.(See page 15) 4. Is the cat the instigator? If your cat saunters by with that sly face, tail up and making figure eights, makes sure the pup sees her and then makes a mad dash up and over the furniture, you must ask yourself who's getting the rush out of the situation? Who really needs the interruption? A long range squirt bottle can work wonders to end the "let's get the puppy in trouble" game. Maybe the cat likes the dog! Some cats enjoy being covered in dog slobber. If the cat is throwing itself on the floor in front of the puppy and wrapping it's arms around the pup's head while it wrestles it until the cat is sopping wet and no one is getting hurt and nothing escalates, this may be a friendship not a conflict at all. Watch carefully who is the instigator and, as with children, disrupt the instigator if there truly is a problem. Otherwise, allow the game to continue as long as nobody is being hurt. 5. Cats in the house are safe, but the neighborhood cats or your cats outside may not be safe. Many dogs will learn to ignore their own cats in the house, but chase them in the yard. Some will totally ignore their "own cats" but still be death on any strange cat that hops the back fence. Dogs don't generalize well - it's a challenge to move the training from "specific cats" to "all cats anywhere, anytime." The other problem is in the house, it is your domain. The yard may be seen by the dog as his turf. The reaction of the cat has much to do with the dog's response. Your own cats are calm and no big deal about the dog. Strange cats startle, jump, run, climb and trigger a far more intense chase instinct in the dog. Disrupt the behavior. See below for ideas. 30

How do you make the chase less exciting or the catch undesirable? Perhaps the same way that you disrupt the chasing behavior. That will depend on your dog. Distraction can work for some dogs. If that is the case for your dog, use a shake can (a soda can with beans or coins), a whistle, a spoon banging against a pan, or even calling your dog. If you have taught your dog “See Me,” use that to get your dog to come to you for the treat. (See page 25) If your dog loves to fetch a ball or Frisbee™ you can use that to divert your dog’s attention. Teaching your dog not to chase or attack other dogs in the household or cats in the household is a great goal. Some people want to take the training a step further and teach the dog to play nicely with the other pets in the household. The critical socialization period for puppies is 3 weeks to 12 weeks. Breeds with high prey drive (terriers, pitbulls, huskies, etc.) will very likely never be trustworthy with cats or small animals. For breeds with a lower level of prey drive, the probability of successful co-existence will be increased the younger the dog is at first meeting. There are three proven steps to teaching your dog to happily play with your other pets and not to dominate them by barking, jumping or growling. (Remember that barking, jumping, and growling can be due to excitement or part of play posturing rather than aggression.) 1. It's a de-sensitization, habituation and counter-conditioning issue. Your plan is to keep the pup's and the cat's adrenalin levels low and their comfort levels high while just hanging out in the same room for hours at a time until the novelty of seeing the cat is desensitized. You want the pup to think of the cat as "just another piece of furniture." Pick a mellow time of day and put the cat in a carrier or on a lap and the pup on leash at a distance they can feel comfortable and watch movies. As they start to ignore each other, you may move closer but don't be in a hurry. 2. Allow quiet, curious investigation by the pup and praise/food treats for all appropriate behavior. Use phrases like "easy" or "gentle" and show him how. Pet the kitty and then pet him. Spread kitty scent on him and doggy scent on the kitty. The goal is simply to help the cat feel safe and the dog feel calm. Calm curiosity is fine, intensity is not. Redirect or time-out for inappropriate behavior. The one and only goal is to teach the animals to relax in each other's presence. 3. As their relationship reaches a point where they have more freedom in each other's presence, put a trailing line on the puppy, long enough that you can step on it easily, as a safety net in case of chasing. The pup should wear this line until you are 99.9% sure there will be no chasing. Should the pup start to think about chasing, plan to say a specific phrase "AAAHH AAAHHH!!" or "Leave it!" and step on the line. You want the pup to make the connection that you warned him that the chase was not an option. Be careful that the pup is never in a position to gain much speed - we don't want to whiplash the pup, just interrupt the thought of chasing. If you find have to use the line, take a 31

step or two backward in your desensitizing process. It probably means you are giving too much freedom too soon.

Aggressive Leash-pulling or Lunging on a Walk Dog owners often complain about their dog’s aggression toward other dogs on a walk or toward people when the dog is on a walk. This is an area where you must know the difference between desire to play and aggression. Review page 6to know the difference. If what you are seeing is really a desire to play, then the most important things you can do are steps 1 and 4 below along with a “heel” command that is well-practiced (see page 26). For many breeds, and for most puppies under the age of three years, walks are simply not enough exercise, so you will have to find other types of exercise to tire your dog. Many breeds (like the herding dogs) need mental stimulation as well as physical exercise. Obedience training and agility training in classes are great for giving dogs both mental and physical stimulation. Various indoor games can help. **If you dog is dangerously aggressive, then you should muzzle your dog (not a head collar like a Gentle Leader™, but a true basket muzzle) and do steps 1 and 4 below when on a walk. ** In all other cases, you will want to follow the four essential steps below to solve your dog’s aggressive leash-pulling or lunging on a walk. 1. Keep your dog on a leash. Any time your dog is outside of your yard or a fenced dog play area, he should always be on a leash. It does not matter how good he is. There is always the chance that someone else’s dog is off-leash and is not that good and will run up and attack your dog or that children or bicycles will scare him or a truck or bus going by will frighten him. When he is on a leash, you are in control and you can keep him from jumping into the street in front of a vehicle or pull him away from another dog or catch him when he darts after a squirrel. Often dog owners will stop and let their dog “meet” another dog they see when on a walk. If the other owner quickly pulls his dog away, puts his dog on his side away from you, or starts walking faster when you do this, pull your dog into a “heel” and move on. However, if the other owner allows his dog to meet and greet yours, it is time to keep a careful eye on both dogs and read the body language carefully. 2. Watch your dog closely, reading the body language of both dogs, or of your dog and the person. When watching your dog interact with other dogs, the general rule is to let the dogs decide what is and what isn't appropriate. Butt-sniffing, rough playing, 32

barking in each other's ears, mounting, and other actions that dogs do would not be acceptable in human company, but are perfectly normal dog behavior. Dogs normally meet each other by sniffing nose-to-nose, then nose-to-butt. They may also sniff the other dog’s stomach or personal parts. One dog may not like to have those body parts sniffed and will snap or growl. If your dog is doing the sniffing and getting growled at, pull him away and the next time, pull him away just before he does that type of sniffing to teach him that dogs consider that impolite. But, if you see that your dog's actions are annoying, scaring, or angering another dog, it is your responsibility to do something about it. Often distracting your dog by calling him away, pulling him away, or making him “heel,” or squirting him lightly with water (this acts as a shoulder-tap, not a punishment!) is enough. If your dog is too excited or intense, take him a few feet away from the action for a light-hearted but calming time out. This is NOT punishment; it's a cool-down period. If you find that your dog is running into a number of "aggressive" dogs who snap at him, stop to consider your dog's actions. Is your dog "getting in the other's face"? Is he not responding to calming signals or indications that the other dog does not want to interact? If you find that your dog is "protecting" you, consider that your dog thinks of you as a valuable resource that he must guard, like a prized bone. Yes, he's possessing you. 3. Teach the “look” command. As with teaching any new command start in an environment that is familiar to your dog and free from any distractions like inside your home or fenced yard (don't start teaching this attention exercise when you are out and about on your walk). This exercise is all about getting and holding the attention of your dog, so grab a handful of your dog’s favorite treats and let’s get started! With your dog on leash say "Harry" (your dog’s name) "look", as soon as your dog looks up at you (gaining eye contact) praise him/her and then produce the treat from your pocket and give it. Remember to keep this sequence the same every time "Harry look!, as soon as you gain eye contact immediately praise your dog "good boy!", then provide the treat. This step is the foundation of the exercise, so get it right and then you just need to build on it and strengthen it. Add some variables to this basic exercise such as saying "Harry look!" then take a couple of steps to one side. When your dog follows you and looks up to make eye contact you praise and produce the yummy treat. Now you can lengthen the 33

amount of time you have your dog's attention by repeating this exercise back to back. It goes like this, say "Harry look!" take a couple of steps to your right, your dog follows you and looks up into your eyes, you praise and then treat. Immediately repeat this process (step to the left this time) and continue to do it 5 or 6 times in a row. Keep practicing this exercise over and over and take it to different locations and gradually add some distractions such as the presence of other dogs by doing very short walks around your neighborhood. This may take a while, so take it slow! When you've built a reliable "look" command in any environment, you can confidently call on it in many situations, including when other dogs are around. Eventually you will be able to fade out the treats and just rely on praise and maybe an occasional treat. In the end you'll find your dog will look to you whenever other dogs are around. Your dog will soon learn that there is no need to be anxious or to fear other dogs. You'll find that eventually your dog will actually learn to associate the presence of other dogs with something positive happening. 4. Teach and use the “leave it” command and keep walking. The original teaching of “leave it” can be found on page 24. However, here is another method for teaching or testing “leave it.” Until the dog does this command reliably in an area free from distractions (such as your kitchen or family room), do not attempt it when there are distractions. Get two types of treats. One could be his regular kibbles and the other could be a favorite treat or you could use treats and some type of cooked meat like chicken or bacon (or a very special type of treat). Put the ‘ordinary’ treat in one hand and the ‘special’ treat in the other. Open the hand with the ‘ordinary treat. When he starts to get it, say firmly “Leave it.” Quickly close your hand. If he acts disinterested, praise him with “good leave it” and give him the ‘special’ treat. If he keeps persisting in trying to get to the ‘ordinary’ treat, keep your hand closed and hold it just out of his reach and ignore him. (If this is the case, you may need to have him on a leash that you hold in the other hand while keeping the ‘special’ treats in a pocket. Again, hold the ‘ordinary’ treat out and tell him “leave it.” If he does not and you are not fast enough to pull it away or close your hand, the leash will be a big help. Every time he does not go for the treat, praise him and give him a ‘special’ treat. Repeat this 3-4 times and quit. Repeat the whole exercise 2-3 times a day. Do not tease your dog. Once he leaves the treat on command, start giving him the ‘special’ treat intermittently so that he does not know if he will get it every time, every other time, or every third time. 34

Then try the exercise outdoors several times. When that works well, put several treats (or crackers or popcorn) on the ground and put him on the leash and tell him to “leave it” as you walk him around the treats. As he obeys you, praise him and give him ‘special’ treats. It is now time to try it on a short walk. You may need to use it as you approach a person, dog, or bicycle (or when he sees a squirrel or rabbit). You will probably need to repeat it several times as you pass the tempting object. Don’t forget the ‘special’ treat and the praise (“good leave it”) once you are past the temptation – even if his “leave it” was not perfect! When walking, use “heel” and “sit” (see page 26)

Aggression Displayed in a Forceful Stance on a Walk A forceful stance can indicate a number of things. It can indicate your dog is afraid, stressed, curious, or guarding. Each of these will take slightly different tactics. Therefore, it is important to understand what you are seeing, so that you know how best to deal with your dog.

Fear Do not pull on the leash; you will only make the dog more obstinate. Do not force the dog to go on walks where she will encounter a number of other dogs and people. Instead opt for early morning or late evening walks and keep them very routine – the same route at the same time every day – to build the dog’s confidence. Find a friend with a dog who will walk with you once a week to start building more confidence. Then on time a week, take a longer walk or take a walk at a different time. Most puppies are not fearful on walks if you socialize them well and keep working with them. However, a rescue dog can be very fearful on walks. This displays as standing still, acting obstinate, hiding behind you, running (either forward or away), or attacking the object causing his fear (a person or dog). There are two keys to dealing with a dog with fear. One is to reestablish (or establish) yourself as your dog’s leader. The other is to take tiny steps toward facing the fear object. Establish yourself as leader. Show him that you are the one in charge and that you make ALL the decisions and he is to follow. You decide when to walk, when to stop, who goes out the door first, when to be quiet and settled, etc. The more you are perceived as an alpha leader, the more secure your dog will be. A word here about being an alpha leader – as such, you are NOT rough, loud or overly physical. It does, however, convey that you mean what you say and do. If the dog is to walk beside your left leg and not out front, it means that you convince your 35

dog that that is how it is going to be, no exceptions. Use your physical presence to convey this message the way dogs do to each other. Use a leash and even a treat in front of your dog’s nose to keep him right where you want him and to focus his attention on you. See the information on teaching “heel” and “sit” on page 26 and how to teach “look” on page 33. The ideal place to establish the leader position is on a daily walk. Rein the dog in such a way that he is walking beside your knee and not wandering off on a long leash. His “job” is to be by your side. You decide the speed, direction and duration of the walk. Walk with your head up as if your dog isn’t even there. This will encourage the dog to follow and begin seeing you as the alpha leader. Ask a friend or neighbor to stand with another dog at a distance where your dog IS NOT fearful distance where your dog does not feel threatened (if it is the person the dog fears, he need not have a dog). Now walk toward the friend’s dog (or friend) until you get a fearful reaction. At this point invoke your role as the alpha leader. Ask your dog to settle down by using your hand in his face or on his hind quarters or tugging the leash until his focus is back on you. Use the “look” command if you have taught it. Stay there until you get him settled. If, after a few minutes of trying, he just won’t settle, then move back to the safe distance and slowly start moving in again. Each time your dog settles down, the next attempt can be closer and closer until the dogs are together. It is not up to your dog whether he ultimately meets another dog. It is up to you as the alpha leader. What you are doing is giving him a chance to adjust to your demand. If you are a strong alpha leader, your dog will ultimately trust your judgment and realize there is nothing to fear. Dogs live “in the moment.” If the new reality is that you and he routinely walk up to other dogs in a calm, confident manner, then he will accept that new reality. It becomes the new recording in his head.

Stress How do you know your dog is displaying stress? Look for the signals on page 3 and 6. Your dog may have given you signals like turning away from a stranger or dog that was approaching head on, bowing or even backing up, walking slowly (almost gingerly), or even suddenly sniffing the ground or acting like he needs to go into the grass to potty but then not pottying. Things to avoid: •

Having someone approach your dog head on.

•

Having someone staring at your dog.

•

Having someone bending over your dog (that is menacing).

•

Having children running or yelling. 36

•

Having runners passing from behind.

What you can do: •

Walk at times that are not so busy and in places where others would be walking on the other side of the street.

•

Avoid a trail or walking path where there are runners, bicycles, and rollerbladers.

•

Avoid areas where there are yelling children.

•

Walk in a curving way so that your dog is not facing oncoming dogs or people.

•

Take short walks close to home. Be routine.

•

Talk to your dog throughout the walk. Practice “look” (page 33) Use the commands he knows like “heel” and “sit” and stay calm and routine.

•

Give your dog stimulation at home where he is less stressed – lots of chew toys, games he enjoys, and even food puzzles.

Curiosity Some dogs will stop and just stand and stare at another dog out of curiosity. That is especially true if the other dog is a breed that is unfamiliar to your dog. It is also true if the other dog is acting crazy or coming straight toward your dog. If your dog is the really curious type, he will always be smelling things and looking at things and trying to play with or chew things. The best thing to do is to keep control of your dog. Get his attention and keep him moving. Anticipate his reaction to everything you approach and do what necessary to keep him focused on you. Carry treats and use them as needed.

Guarding, Territorial, and Possessive Behavior If your dog is in this forceful stance and is possessive of you, you need to act quickly before he shows signs of aggression like growling, biting, or attacking. Remember that dogs, even those that have a genetic, inborn guarding instinct, will not attack immediately. Instead, they will give signs, traveling up the hierarchy. They will not bite without warning, so do not ignore or punish lower level signals like the forceful stance. Instead, deal with them quickly and appropriately every time. First, be aware if your dog is guarding possessions other than you. 37

•

How do you get your dog to be less possessive of his toys? Remove items he would normally guard so he does not have the opportunity.

•

Change his toys around every few days, allowing him only to have 2-3 toys at a time.

•

If he always gets possessive and growls or snarls when he has a bone or a certain rawhide, quit giving him bones or that type of rawhide.

•

If he has a favorite toy that he guards, only give it to him when he is really good and you are going to be gone for a while so that nobody bothers him when he has it.

•

If he plays fetch with a certain ball for a while and then refuses to give it up when he brings it back and starts growling when you try to take it, assume the game is over and don’t force the issue. Notice how many times he will go after the ball and start throwing it one less time than that so that he does not get to the possessive stage.

Next, use these 5 vital strategies if he is guarding food. •

Start hand-feeding him his kibbles for all meals. This will help him realize that all food comes from you. Feed it one or two kibbles at a time.

•

Make him sit for some of them and do not give them to him until he does.

•

Make him take them gently. You may have to turn your hand upside down and hold the kibbles until they are in his mouth. Use the command “gently” or “easy.”

•

Pick his bowl up periodically throughout the day or evening and put a treat in it and make him “sit-stay” until you put the bowl down and release him to eat the treat. If he gets up before you release him (by saying “okay”), he does not get the treat.

•

Give him plenty of space for his bowl in a low-traffic or non-traffic area. A dog that is fed in a corner or in a busy area of the house often feels threatened, so he is more likely to guard the bowl. If two or more dogs are fed too closely together, one or all may be threatened simply by the close proximity. Separate them. Perhaps feed them at separate times and put those not being fed in another room with a gate or outdoors.

Then, if he is guarding furniture such as a chair or couch, use the command “off” and make him get off every time he gets on “his” piece of furniture. You may have to attach a leash to him to get him off if he is a large dog. If he has a blanket or a bed that he guards forcefully, move it to a low-traffic area and only allow him access to it when you are gone or at bedtime. Some dogs like a blanket to call their own when their owners are at work. If that is the case, get the blanket out and put it where he likes it just before you leave for work and pick it up once you come home and greet him. Keep his bed in the room where you want him 38

to sleep. Realize that if he is in his bed of his own accord, he probably is tired or does not feel good, so should be approached carefully. Finally, when you are walking and he goes into his forceful stance, you need to learn to feel it coming on. You should be aware of his body language at all times. Know and watch for his calming signals. Watch approaching people and dogs. Watch all dogs for signs of threat – like coming straight at your dog or walking with their head held especially high. When your dog’s body starts to tense, you can feel it in the leash. Immediate turn and go another way or curve on the path away from the dog or person. Turn your dog away from the approaching person or dog and have him “sit.” If necessary, turn around and take 5-6 steps, then turn around again and walk rapidly past the person or dog. The first few times you may not be able to turn back around and pass the person or dog and may have to walk rapidly back home or back to a cross street you can go down. Whatever you do, do not give him an opportunity to get into a full “guarding my person possession” stance! Keep your dog under complete control at all times. If he is large and strong, use a leash that gives you good control (not a Flexi-Lead) and a collar like a slip collar. Do not use a harness, a head collar like a Gentle Leader, or a prong collar. Take Regular Walks with Ease and Without Aggressive Behavior How can you take your dog for regular walks and provide it with routine exercise, which is essential to keep it happy, mentally and physically? Ø Obedience training is the key. §

You must teach your dog to “heel” (see page 26). Use the command and keep your dog’s attention. Use “look” (see page 33) and a treat in front of your dog’s nose as needed.

§

Teach your dog “leave it” (see page 24). Review it often. Use it on your walks.

§

At the first sign of any anxious or aggressive behavior from your dog you can immediately call on an obedience command such as “sit” or “sit-stay” to divert his/her attention (see page 27). You are asking your dog to perform an alternate behavior which takes his focus and attention away from the other dog (or person). It also changes your dog’s body language to a passive, non-threatening posture because you are the leader.

Ø Anticipation is crucial. You must know your dog’s body language and what it means. Anticipate any problems and use a command or change direction or get your dog focused on you. Also watch for body language from approaching dogs. Ø There is no substitute for using the right equipment. Use a chain-link slip collar and a six-foot leather leash. When you are in the process of 39

eradicating on-leash aggression, be sure to use a suitable basket muzzle and do your best to avoid possible confrontations. This won't fix the problem, but it's a necessary and worthwhile temporary measure. Do not use a harness, a prong collar, a Flexi-Lead, or a head collar like a Gentle Leader. None will give you control or help your dog learn self-control. Harnesses and Flexi-Leads can cause you to get seriously hurt. Ø Know yourself and give the right message. Always be mindful that your dog is very sensitive to your energy, emotions, breathing and feelings. Therefore if you tense up and grab hold of the leash tightly at the first sign of an approaching dog, your dog will pick up on this and become anxious and stressed. This is a huge factor in most cases of on-leash aggression. You want your dog to believe that other dogs are no big deal rather than something to get worked up about. Another reason to not tighten up the leash is because this changes your dog's body language (makes your dog stand upright and tall). This can be seen by the other dogs as a show of dominance or, at the very least, threatening. Ø Always reward your dog for polite, calm greetings (or passings) with unfamiliar dogs. Demonstrate to your dog that you are happy with him/her.

Situations with the Leash Fear of the Leash or Aggression toward the Leash A dog may be fearful of the leash because he has not been on a leash before or because he has been injured by a leash. Sometimes a dog has been beaten by a leash and has a real reason for being afraid of the leash. Other times, a dog is over six months old before a leash is put on him and he does not know what is happening. Here is a way to break down the desensitization process into stages. Repeat each stage until the dog is comfortable with it (and give treats and praise): (1) Put a treat on the leash snap and let the dog eat the treat off of it. (2) Attach a short leash to her collar, and then immediately detach it. (3) Attach the short leash to her collar and leave it on her for 30 seconds, later for 1 minute, then for 1.5 minutes, and gradually increase the time up to five minutes. (4) Walk her around inside the house on the short leash. (5) Attach a long leash to her collar and leave it on her. Repeat the steps at (3). (6)Walk her around inside the house on the long leash. 40

(7) Walk her around in your fenced-in backyard on the long leash. (8) Take her out of the backyard on a short walk in front of the house. Go back and forth. Gradually increase the amount of time on the leash, around the yard and back and forth in front of the house. (9) Gradually extend the length of the walks. It may help to start working with “heel” and “sit” (see page 26) at step (4) to help the dog focus on you and get some treats and praise instead of focusing on the leash

Play with the Leash Playing with the leash by trying to take it in her mouth is a big game with your dog. Perhaps when it first started it was cute and encouraged. But now, it's frustrating, especially when she grabs the leash close to your hand and gets some flesh. First, don't snap on the lead. To you, you feel you are trying to stop her from taking the lead. To her, it could easily be that she thinks you are playing with her. Each time she grabs at the leash to take it in her mouth, let her have it. Now, while the leash is in her mouth, place your hand around her entire mouth closing it shut. Do not overdue the pressure it takes to do this. You only want to use enough pressure to keep the mouth closed. While you are doing this, tell her no. No need to shout it, just tell her in a firm medium voice, no! while holding her mouth shut. You are trying to get her mind off the leash. Very shortly she will not like you doing this and begin to pull away from you. When she begins to pull away, hold on for a short period longer--about ten seconds, then quickly release your hand. She will automatically open her mouth and, at, that point, be ready to pull the leash--quickly but gently from her mouth, NOT with your hand, but with a tug just strong enough to remove the leash from her mouth. Then, praise her. If she wants to take the leash back into her mouth, by all means, let her. Repeat what you did the first time all the way through to the release. After she does this about fifteen to twenty times (unless you’re really lucky) and you continue with the correction, she should stop. It is important to praise her each time she releases the lead, and under no circumstances do not pull the lead too sharply from her mouth.

Aggression to Family Members 41

3 ways to teach your dog not to bark or nip at family members whenever they move. •

Never tolerate growling. This is a threat and it means your dog sees you as a subordinate meant to be dominated by him. Tell him No! Let him know it is not acceptable to EVER growl at you or your children. Make it clear that your children are the offspring of his Alpha leader (you) and that they are to be treated as Alpha "pups."

•

Spend time with your dog. Train him by teaching him such commands as leave it, heel, sit, down, and stay. Walk him daily.

•

Be calm, assertive and provide rules and boundaries your dog must follow.

If this dog is a herding breed (some type of shepherd, sheepdog, cattle dog, or Corgi, Collie, etc.), this is very normal, instinctive herding behavior. Herding dogs herd by nipping. That is how a little dog gets a great big cow to move in the direction he needs it to move. Now you, your husband, and your friends are her herd. She is trying to corral everyone and keep them in a group so she can protect them. Every time someone moves, she has to go “get” them and “herd” them back to the group. Put some coins in a coffee can or other metal can. You may need several of these throughout your house. You can even carry a version of it with you by putting beans or coins in an empty pill bottle like a vitamin bottle. Every time (EVERY TIME) she starts to nip, shake the can or bottle. As soon as she startles and looks at you say firmly, even gruffly, “no bite.” If she starts again, repeat the shaking and the command, “NO. no bite!” The third time you have to do it, put your hand in front of her nose with the hand open and palm toward her. If she goes for the hand, use your index finger and thumb to pinch her nostrils closed for just a couple of seconds. You can also use “leave it.” (See page 24)

How to desensitize your dog from feeling jealous of the kids in the family when you show affection towards them and how to wean your dog from bonding singularly to you A puppy raised in your home with your children will not have jealousy issues because it will have grown up knowing the family pack hierarchy. However, a dog raised in a home with no children and then suddenly adopted into a family with children or becoming a dog in a blended family with a partner and children usually has huge issues with loss and grief over its loss as sole companion and #2 in the hierarchy. Realize that this is difficult and try to be understanding and spend extra time with the dog. •

Socialize, socialize, socialize. It cannot be stressed enough: it is important to introduce your dog to different places and people. Take daily walks in parks or on a trail. Go to a dog park regularly. Find something to do with your dog. Join an agility or obedience class. If you have a laid back dog or puppy, share 42

your time with the local nursing home. Volunteer with disability groups so children and adults with special needs can enjoy the non-judgmental love a dog or puppy can provide. •

Make sure the dog has time with and around your children and their friends, but that he does not feel threatened by them. Teach them to approach him correctly – not straight ahead or top down, but on his level and quietly. Teach them to play with him in ways that he enjoys. Share his play time by having him take his toys to different family members (by name).

•

Do not disrupt his sleeping habits. If he is used to sleeping with you and now cannot sleep in the bed with you, give him a doggie bed right next to your side of the bed and give him treats when he lies in it.

•

Invite him to sit with you (but not between you and your partner or your child). Stroke him and talk to him occasionally as he sits there.

•

Do not baby your dog. He needs to learn to be a dog. When he acts afraid of something that he should not be afraid of, do not pick him up and ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ over him. Simply tell him it is okay, and show him the object, person, etc. Your confidence will make him a confident and dependable dog.

•

If you feed his imaginary fears, he will become a snappy and untrustworthy dog. He may develop fear aggression. An example of fear aggression could be a dog that sits in its owner's lap and growls at people or other animals. If you pet him, and tell him "It's okay." You are really telling him this is the type of behavior you expect of him, and he will continue to do it because there is a reward attached to it. Tell him no and put him down off your lap. While some owners think it is sweet that their little lap dog is "protecting them," it is not. When a child reaches to pet the dog or hug Grandma it could bite them if it is allowed to get away with this antisocial behavior. This is a dog that has taken on Alpha position and you are a subordinate. I have seen so many children chastised when they get bitten, when it's the owner that is responsible. You will often hear people say "Now, you know Granny's dog doesn't like you to go near her. She is jealous, and protective. We have told you over and over not to do that." What a shame. And it could all be avoided if we would just take the time to learn canine behavior. As much as we would like to believe that they think like us, they do not.

•

The person who feeds the dog will seldom get bitten by the dog. Have the person who is growled at the most feed the dog by having the dog sit and stay until the food is in the bowl and the person releases the dog to eat. Or, the person could hand feed the dog his kibbles, a couple at a time. Just make sure the dog is trained to take them gently (use the command “gentle” or “easy”) and hold the kibbles in index finger and thumb pointing down to make the dog be gentle.

•

Even young children (as young as two years old) can help you feed the dog and can give a treat to a dog if you work with and supervise the child. By age 43

three or four, a child can help you with combing or brushing the dog using a soft-bristled brush or a brush with wide-set teeth or plastic bristles. Teach the child to be gentle and to talk quietly when around the dog. Most dogs will follow children around when they discover children drop morsels of food when they eat meals and snacks. •

If the dog snaps or growls or tries to get between you and the child when you give a child a hug, tell him firmly “NO, Wait” and then after a few minutes, use the “see me” command and give him a treat and some attention. (See pages 25 for “see me.”)

Establish Your and Your Partner’s Leadership over the Dog If your spouse, boyfriend, or girlfriend, is having a problem with your dog, you must determine why. Often with dogs, pack order is a problem here too. If a dog is living with one person when the other comes along, a dog might not want to give up the second in command position in his "pack." This is often interpreted as jealousy, when it's really a dominance problem, and your spouse/boyfriend/girlfriend will have to establish dominance. Or, the two of you may have been inconsistent, each treating the dog differently. You will have to start establishing a new relationship among you, your significant other, and your dog by following these five steps. 1. Every person in the household must be a leader to the dog. If everyone is a strong pack leader, the dog will follow. Teach other family members – even those who are in and out of your house – how to be a consistent leader. (See the information on being your dog’s leader on page 19) 2. Learn to recognize the earliest signs of unwanted behavior and correct it immediately. Correction can be a quick tug on the leash or a shake of a soda can with coins or beans. Various behaviors and corrections are found throughout the book. Each person needs to be calm and assertive. Don’t allow yelling or screaming or any roughness. Simply be calm and firm and expectant of immediate obedience. 3. Figure out if you have been neglecting your dog since your partner came into the picture. Maybe he has a legitimate gripe because you no longer play with him or take him on his regular walks at the time he thinks is proper. Try to reestablish the routine he likes or work on establishing a new routine that works for all involved. It can include the new person, giving that person a role with the dog (maybe as leash-holder on an evening walk or playmate to throw the ball while you prepare supper or clean the kitchen). Invite the dog back onto the couch to sit by you – but not between you. 4. Learn your dog’s calming signals. Then learn what calming signals you can use to help your dog relax. Teach those signals to your partner, so both of you can use them with your dog. (See pages 6 and 11) 44

5. Practice controlled exercises every day for those situations in which your dog would show aggression. Practice at least once a day. For example, if you dog growls at your partner(or child) when he enters the room where you are, put your dog on a leash and have your partner (or child) enter the room 6-8 times a day. Every time the dog starts to growl, use the “leave it” command (see page 24) and, if he does not relax, give a quick jerk on the leash. If that does not work, give your dog a “time out” in his room or his crate for 10 minutes.

Aggression to Friends, Guests, and Their Dogs How to condition your dog’s emotional reactions so that it never gets aggressive to a point of biting your guests or attacking their dogs: •

Teach your dog the “floor” command. See below for instructions.

•

Put a leash on your dog BEFORE you open the door.

•

Teach your dog “sit-stay” and use it while your guests are leaving as well as entering.

•

Keep both dogs on leashes until they are completely trustworthy with one another.

•

Supervise your dog with a guest dog at all times.

•

Use crates for both dogs. Crate them one at a time and crate both of them if all the adults will be gone from the house or unable to watch the dogs.

•

Give the dogs times away from each other during the visit. Include one-on-one time for each dog with its owner.

•

Do not feed the dogs next to each other unless they are completely comfortable with each other. Even then, separate them with the water bowl(s) and another 8-12 inches on each side of the water bowl.

•

Keep the dogs’ routines as ‘normal’ as possible – normal eating times, walk times, cuddle times, etc.

Teach the “Floor” Command The command “FLOOR” means “keep all four feet on the floor.” When your dog jumps on people, give the command “FLOOR” and take the dog by the shoulders, pulling it down to a position of having all four feet on the floor. Do not release his shoulders until he relaxes. If he jumps again, pull him down again. 45

If it is difficult for you to pull him down by the shoulders, put a training (choker style) collar and leash on him and pull him sharply away from the person and down so that his feet are all on the floor and he cannot pull his front feet up. If he is really excited, put one foot firmly on the leash so that he cannot get up to jump. Once he has calmed down, release him and make him SIT – STAY. When he does it, praise him. Do not let him jump up, go crazy, or jump on the people in response to the praise. You may need to keep the praise low-key and bend over or squat to his level to praise him. When your dog has a habit of greeting visitors at the door, controlling this type of behavior may be impossible without a training collar and leash. To teach your dog to sit and greet people, practice “SIT - STAY” at the door where visitors usually enter. Once the Dog is able to perform this with some reliability, introduce a guest at the front door. Using the sit and stay command, allow the visitor to enter and greet the Dog, not the other way around. Have the visitor stay about five minutes, then exit through another door, only to come back to the front door again. If you practice this exercise several times a day, your dog will eventually learn to sit and greet people at the door instead of knocking them over. Practice this with him by having a variety of people come to the door over the next two weeks. Always be inside with his leash and choke chain on him. When the doorbell rings, make him “sit” and then tell him to “stay.” Hold onto the leash while you open the door. If he gets up, use the leash (pull up while pushing down on his rear) to make him sit again. When he gets excited, use the command “floor” and hold the leash down on the floor, keeping it short so that his feet cannot come off the floor. Everyone in the household has to practice giving and enforcing this command. You can also use a hand signal with it which will work for your family as you come in the door. It is the hand outstretched with the palm to the dog (like a policeman saying “stop”). Learn 3 simple calming signals you can use to keep your dog in control in a crowd, so you can trust it and feel less anxious. Dog trainer and dog language expert Turid Rugaas from Norway (author of On Talking Terms with Dogs) tells of many calming signals dogs use to calm themselves, calm other dogs, and calm their owners. (See page 11 for a more complete list.) Some of these can be used effectively by the owners to help calm their dogs. •

Yawning is something dogs do to calm themselves and other dogs and people. If your dog is stressed in a social situation, try yawning (or faking a yawn) several times. Simply opening and closing your mouth may help. 46

•

Sitting is a calming signal done by dogs to calm themselves. That is why it is important to teach your dog to “sit” and “sit-stay.” (See page 27)

•

Curving or walking in a curve or at a little distance from another dog or a person is a signal. Mature dogs do not usually go straight toward each other. Your dog will often curve when you meet someone coming towards you on the path. It is frequently used when something is approaching or is in the dog's way but where he still needs to go in that direction. When you walk with your dog by your side or in heel position and a person and/or a dog comes towards him on that side, he might try to walk on the other side of you. If a dog looks fearful or angry, your dog will often use a wide curve around the dog in order to calm him down. You can use this signal when approaching a fearful or aggressive dog or when you meet a dog that gives you a calming signal like sniffing, licking, head turning or something else.

Understand why your dog is biting anyone who approaches your home, without any pattern of men, women or kids, or even, frequent visitors it should have known by now. In the case of a dog bite or near-miss, it is time to get expert help in person without delay. Have your veterinarian medically check the dog for blindness and deafness as well as any physical problem. He can then recommend a veterinary behavior specialist to evaluate the dog’s temperament, take a complete history, and advise you of the risks and your options. The sooner you get the right help, the better the chances of an outcome that will be successful for humans and for the dog. If your dog is showing only the mildest signs of becoming aggressive to visitors— such as anxiety or overexcitement—there’s no time to lose in working with the dog to prevent a problem. Start your puppy or new dog on good training and management for safety with guests before any problem surfaces, for the best chance that it never will. Once a dog has had a bad experience with a visitor to your home, he will transfer that experience to every visitor to the home. For everyone’s safety you will need to contain him in an area away from the door when visitors arrive. He can be put in a pen in another room, in a room like a utility room with a gate across the doorway, or in his crate. Once the visitors are seated and calm, he may be put on a leash and brought to see the visitors. The first several times only allow him to see the visitors from the safety of the doorway with you holding tightly to the leash. Make his sit next to you while you keep your hand on his shoulders. After a couple of minutes, return him to his safe containment area. Do not tolerate barking or whining when he is there. Instead, give him a Kong® with peanut butter or a chew toy or a stick to chew on while he is confined.

47

If he is aggressive to or biting anyone who comes near your home, consider that this is guarding rather than aggression. You must determine what he is guarding – the house, you or other family members, or his possessions in the house. Each will take a different set of steps to break. See page 37. Ø Many problems can result from pack order issues - the dog does not want to relinquish his status in your "pack." Read about being your dog’s leader on page 19 and then help all humans with whom he has contact to be above the dog in the hierarchy with their body language. Ø Most all problems and bites between kids and a household pet are entirely preventable. Parents must closely supervise their kids when they are around any dog; NEVER leave young child unattended with a pet. The age at which they can spend any time without supervision depends on the maturity of the child and the temperament of the pet. It only takes a split second for a bad move from a child to turn into a bad move from the pet, and injury occurs. Ø Teach children not to move suddenly or descend on a dog. Also teach them not to squeeze the dog. A hug that covers the dog’s eyes or traps his nose will almost always elicit a snap and/or growl from even the calmest dog. Ø Dogs sometimes see children as subordinate members of the pack who need to be put in their place, and a trainer or behaviorist might be able to help you immensely. But, if your pet is showing signs of aggression, and you truly believe your children are in any danger, it would probably be best to find a home with a person prepared to deal with this problem. Children also need to be taught to respect their pet's needs and feelings. Ø This said, NO child should be expected to fully care for a pet, until they are mature enough to care for themselves. No matter what a child promises, they ARE only children, and will need help from their parents.Some time between ages 10 and 12 a child can learn to care for a dog and should be given that responsibility. However, that care should be limited to feeding, watering, cleaning up, and training under supervision. Programs such as 4-H and pet stores like Petco and PetSmart offer dog training classes designed for children aged 10 and above and usually invite the parent to attend with the child. That way the family members all learn the same thing at the same time and send the same signals to the dog. Ø Teaching children the safe ways to approach all animals, to respect them and treat them kindly, and to make sure pets are well socialized, trained, and protected from unruly children is the safest way to give a pet and a child that potentially incredible relationship they can have with each other. Each time a child is good to an animal, he or she is teaching that animal that kids are nothing to be afraid of, and 48

lessening the chances that the animal will ever threaten a child. It's a training process that lasts a lifetime, for both the child and the pet.

What should you do if a doggy school has rejected your dog, because of its aggression towards the other pets? •

Muzzle your dog. Use a basket-style muzzle whenever the dog is outside the house. You may also have to use it in the house if the dog is aggressive to family members.

•

Hire a dog behaviorist and/or a dog trainer to come to your home and help you with your dog. This is well worth the cost. You may only need professional help a couple of times or you may need several sessions before you can take the dog to a class.

•

Then take it to doggy school with a muzzle on and with you doing what the dog behaviorist has helped you learn. Plan to go to a school with a reputable trainer who can really help you. Figure you will be going at least once a week for at least eight months, but twelve months or more would be better.

•

Don’t give up; keep working with the dog. Watch training videos. Practice what you learn. Work with your dog in practice sessions at least twice a day every day – morning and evening for 15-30 minutes each. Use rewards including lots of praise for the right behavior. You will see an entirely different dog in 3-6 months. If you don’t see improvement, you may have to consult with the dog behaviorist as to whether the dog is in the right household or if the dog has problems too severe to solve.

Aggression to the Owner or Trainer Treating aggressive behavior is best handled by a professional animal behaviorist or a very experienced, reputable animal trainer. There are a number of individuals who call themselves animal behaviorists or trainers who are poorly qualified. They often resort to brutal and sadistic methods such as "hanging" and shock collars to correct aggressive dogs. Excessive force and punishment are their main tools. When seeking a professional trainer, always seek advice from your veterinarian and carefully interview trainers to find the one who uses the least amount of force necessary. There are seven things that you should know and do when your dog bites you or bares its teeth and rants and raves unnecessarily: 1. Treatment consists of listing all the things that trigger aggressive behavior and preventing these situations from developing. For example, if the dog 49

growls or snaps (even one time) when you try to remove it from the couch, don't allow it to get on the couch at all. 2. The first impulse is to minimize contact between an aggressive dog and the person or people he is most aggressive to. However, this only encourages the dog to become dominant to more and more people and tightens his control of the household. Therefore, the individual who is having the most difficulty with the dog should become the main provider for everything the dog needs – food, water, exercise, praise, affection, and all play activity. 3. This person must be the person training the dog to obey basic obedience commands of sit, stay, come, and down. He will probably need a lot of help with the down command (which puts the animal in a submissive position) so he doesn't get bitten. 4. All other family members must totally ignore the dog – no play, food, or affection. The dog must look on that one person as its sole provider of everything. 5. The dog must be rewarded for any signs of submissive behavior such as ears back, looking away (avoiding eye contact), rolling over, licking, crouching, or lowering the head when being reached for. Any dominant gestures that the dog will tolerate should be used frequently and the dog must be praised and given occasional food rewards for submitting. The dog must earn everything. 6. Once a dog starts to respond, then counter-conditioning can be started, but this should only be done with a qualified behaviorist-trainer. Counterconditioning includes working with a dog that doesn't like its feet or

hindquarters handled; it is also referred to as desensitizing the dog to certain stimuli or conditions. 7. Repeat praise and reward for each positive response. Gradually increase the duration and frequency of handling and praise the dog for each act of submission, no matter how small. Aggressive dogs can be retrained under the right circumstances. Keep in mind, however, before anyone starts a program to correct an aggressive dog, he must realize that the dog may never be trustworthy around other people or children and may bite if provoked. Owners should always be given the cold, hard facts: they should never feel guilty for having an aggressive dog euthanized, but they should also realize that, if they are likely to make the same mistakes with another dog, they should not get another dog. Once a dog has reached dominant status, punishment cannot be used to correct a dominant aggressive dog! 50

The trainer may make the dog revert to a submissive-aggressive or defensiveaggressive animal, and the dog may respond to that person out of fear, but it will never be trustworthy around others, even family members. The most that may be accomplished is to reduce the frequency and severity of the aggressive acts. With biting dogs, humane euthanasia is often the kindest form of treatment. Biting animals often go from home to home and lead a life of fear and severe, inhumane punishment.

Understand why your dog’s mood changes and it shows sudden, shocking outbursts when you least expect it, making you afraid to take it off its lead even for a second. Sudden, shocking outbursts from your dog may be characteristic of your dog’s breed. They may also be due to some stimulus you are not thinking about. Or they may be due to pain or illness your dog is suffering. Every time your dog’s mood changes from good to bad or your dog has an “outburst” you need to write down everything going on in the environment, everything you did or said, how your dog was approached, what the noise level was, etc. It is very likely you will begin to see some type of pattern even though you thought there was not a pattern. It is very important to be aware of stress signals and calming signs your dog displays leading up to the mood change. These will tell you exactly when your dog begins to feel the stress that will lead to a mood change. If you can change the circumstances or calm your dog, you can avoid the mood change. If an injury, disease or genetic congenital defect, is deemed the cause of the dog's mood swings or aggression, then no training will be effective until the problem has been resolved or controlled. Get a complete veterinary exam, explaining to your vet exactly what you are seeing in your dog. There are many conditions that can cause unusual or aggressive behavior in dogs. Anything from problems with teeth and eyesight to joint pain. If the temperament problem is genetic in nature, then the likelihood that the animal can be completely cured of the aggression is minimal. The treatment would then concentrate on the "management" of the behavior rather than an absolute cure. Other conditions (like hypothyroidism) can be effectively treated with medication prescribed by your veterinarian. Any condition which causes inflammation of the brain, can also cause neurological problems, including aggression. A chemical imbalance can make their behavior unstable and medication may be required to rectify the problem. A dog in pain can react in a defensive or aggressive manner.

51

Dogs can have an imbalance of chemicals in their brains similar to a chemical depression in people. Your vet will have to try one or more medications in various amounts until he/she finds the right balance for your particular dog at that time. Illnesses that lead to aggressive behavior include encephalitis (both bacterial and viral), hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), hydrocephalus (water on the brain), epilepsy, and brain tumors.

52

Chapter 5 - Adopting a Rescue Dog with an Unknown Past Concerning Aggression and Possessiveness Introducing Your Dog to Other Dogs in the Family When getting a second (or third or fourth) dog, do not let them introduce themselves at home. The original tenant will be threatened and protective of his turf. Even a normally calm and peaceful dog may attack the dog he sees as an intruder. It is best for them to meet on neutral ground like a park. Even a neighbor’s or friend’s yard will be better than your yard, especially if it is fenced. Both dogs will need to be on a leash and slip collar and each will need a person who is capable of handling that dog on the other end of the leash. 1. Be sure to maintain a loose leash. A tight leash may threaten the dog and cause him to become aggressive. 2. Allow the two dogs to approach each other and sniff noses and sniff rear ends. 3. Use happy talk “Isn’t Tippy going to be a nice playmate for you, Rover?” 4. Praise both dogs by name when they behave well. 5. If the dogs play bow and wag their tails, give them some freedom together but keep the leashes on so that you can grab them if you need to. If they don’t seem too friendly toward each other, proceed to #6. 6. After 15 minutes, take the dogs for a walk together (one person on each leash). A nice long walk will help them get acquainted and somewhat tired so they will be less likely to compete when they go home. 7. Repeat the play in the fenced yard. (you may need to leave the leashes on for safety) 8. Before taking them into the house, pick up all toys they can both get to. Once they are inside, give each of them a new toy – and do not insist they play with the toy you gave them because they are likely to want the other one’s toy. As long as each has a toy, it does not matter who owns which toy. 9. Do not allow them to be together without supervision until you are sure of their friendship. 10. You will probably want to put the new dog in a crate or in ‘his room’ when you cannot directly supervise. 11. Feed the dogs separately but at the same time. If the new dog shows possessiveness of his food, see page 38. 12. As your dogs establish their hierarchy, the newly adopted dog may wait for the original dog to finish eating before he starts. Do not worry about it. He 53

may also get snapped at or snarled at if he tries to “share” the original dog’s food. That, too, is to be expected. If it is impossible to introduce them on neutral ground, bring the new dog home in a crate. Set the crate in the middle of a room that the original dog does not think of as ‘his room’ and let him sniff the crate for 15-20 minutes. If he is acting like he wants to play with the new dog, put his leash and slip collar on him and take him into the yard. Then take the new dog out of the crate and put his slip collar and leash on him and take him into the yard to meet. Again, each will need a person who is capable of handling that dog on the other end of the leash. Then follow the steps above. Warning: If your dogs fight, DO NOT separate them with your bare hands. If they are wearing leashes, grab one and pull the dog away. Defuse the situation by throwing water or squirting water on the dogs or throw a blanket or coat over them. Using a shake can will scare them into looking up long enough to give you a chance to grab a collar. If the new dog shows aggression or possessiveness in any way, review the information on pages 14 and 38. If he is aggressive to other dogs in the household without guarding behavior, you will need to keep him separated from the other dogs by putting him in ‘his room’ when you cannot watch him carefully. This is a situation where Calming Signals will be very important. See page 11. You can use them with the dog when he is by himself and when he is with another dog. Watch for both dogs to use calming signals and learn to anticipate the stress signals. Remove the new dog from the situation if he does not calm in a few minutes. Introducing Your New Dog to Other Pets in the Family Dogs and cats often coexist, and even become good friends, in the same household. However, there are many breeds, especially terriers, that will chase that same cat (until the cat drops of exhaustion or the dog catches and kills it in some instances) if the two of them are loose outside. The first few times the cat and dog meet will create the tone of their relationship. Start by shutting the cat away from the room(s) the dog will be allowed in when you bring the new dog home. Let the dog explore without meeting the cat. He will still be able to smell the cat’s presence. After the dog has been there several hours and the excitement has died down, put your newly adopted dog on his leash and sit at one end of the room. Have someone else let the cat into a room adjacent to the room you and the dog are in and shut the doors so that the cat only has access to the room he is in and the room you are in if possible. Keep the new dog lying down (or at least sitting) and encourage the cat to come into the room by calling and using treats as needed. Once the cat sees that the dog is constrained, he will feel safer and become braver.

54

If the cat is especially shy or the dog is barking, you will have to repeat this several times over a period of days before they get close enough to sniff each other. Some really shy cats will go behind the furniture and around the edges of the room to avoid the dog for weeks. You will need to make the dog stop barking and keep the dog from chasing the cat during the first few weeks. You will also need to monitor each of their encounters until you are sure of how they react to each other. During the first few weeks you may not want to let your cat out of the house as cats often run away and refuse to come back when a new animal or baby arrives at their home. Once he gets to know the dog, you can begin to let the cat outdoors again. If the dog chases the cat, teach the dog “leave it” and apply it to the cat. See page 24. Dogs are predators and many breeds have great instincts for digging out and killing vermin – rabbits, ferrets, gerbils, rats, mice, etc. Most dogs instinctively kill snakes, reptiles and amphibians. Therefore, if you have any of these pets, you will want to keep the pet in its cage at all times when the dog is in the house. If you will be taking the pet out of its cage, put your dog outside until your pet is safely back in its cage. Make sure the cage is in a place your dog cannot reach. Dogs will jump up to see a baby chicken or duck as you hold it. They are expecting to mouth it to see what it is, but their teeth will kill it instantly. Do not take a chance on your dog accidentally killing a baby animal. Shut the dog out of the room while you handle the baby animal. Some dogs (not terriers) will become friends with a large rabbit or a ferret. Introduce them in the same way you would a cat to the dog. If the dog lunges at the rabbit or ferret, beware that the “kill” instinct is present. Do not trust them together.

Train your Rescue Dog to Come Out of Its Insecurities, Caused by Mental or Physical Punishment from Its Previous Owners While you may be tempted to keep your new dog close to you and stay at home more to give him confidence and calm his insecurities, this is the worst thing you can do. The dog will become so closely bonded to you, that he will become even more insecure in situations outside the home or demanding your attention. Start with this easy exercise twice a day (at first in the house, without distractions): 1. With only the new dog free in the house, crouch down and hold out a treat and call, happily, “Rover, see me!” 2. Praise your dog if he stands and wags his tail, if he simply stands or sits and looks at you, or if he comes to you. If he comes to you, give him the treat. If he comes, pet him by rubbing his chest or stomach, never put your hands over the top of him as he will interpret that as a precursor to further abuse. 55

Even if he urinates on the way, ignore the urination and praise him. Housetrain your dog very consistently. Use a leash. Take him out to potty every couple of hours for the first couple of days. Use one area and command for pee and a different command and area for poop. After the first couple of days, make sure you take him out on a leash for pottying any time he wakes up or is released from his crate, before bed, and about a half hour after eating. The most important thing to do to give your dog confidence is to be consistent and to never shout at your dog or threaten him with your arm motion or body language. 1. Start your own obedience training immediately – just you and your dog – and stick with it for the first six weeks you have the dog. Teach “heel” and “sit” (see page 26), “see me” (see page 25), “sit stay” (see page 27), and “leave it” (see page 24). 2. Establish and maintain a routine – every day. 3. Sign up for an obedience class and take your dog every week. Practice twice a day. Use lots of praise. All these steps will give your dog confidence because he will learn your expectations and he will know when he has done something to please you since you will praise him. Each time he does the right thing and gets praise will raise his confidence level a bit higher. Beware: Abused dogs can be unpredictable. Therefore, a dog that seems very submissive may quickly turn Jekyll and Hyde and bite you for what appears to be “no reason at all.” You may see a variety of personality problems that will take months to overcome. Don’t be hesitant to consult with a trainer or animal behaviorist once or several times!

Bring a Rescue Dog, with a Known History of Jealousy and Aggression, Into More Social Situations Feed him by hand, making him sit at first, progressing to “down” and then to doing tricks. After a couple of weeks put his bowl on the floor between you and the dog and drop one piece of food in at a time, then a few, then more and eventually progress to the whole meal. Then drop in a bit of freeze dried treats or hot dogs. Then fill his dish, walk away, and walk back and put your hand in his dish, drop in a treat, then walk away again. Soon you should be able to put my fingers in his dish and pet him. The most important thing is to never take anything away from him. Alot of people cause 56

resource guarding by taking away, then giving back bones, food dishes and the like... This is NOT the right way to go about it! If he guards items, trade him for items he's guarding by giving him something he likes even better. Get something he'll want more than what he's guarding, hold it close, and when he comes over to get it, scoop up the item he was guarding. Learn how to be his pack leader and be a consistent pack leader. See page 19. You want him to be in social situations you control. Start by working on some trips to the vet’s office just to visit. Choose a trainer who comes to your home and teaches classes. Have several in-home visits and follow the trainer’s advice before taking your dog to classes.

57