Bucharest In Your Pocket

Maps Restaurants Cafés Pubs Clubs Sightseeing Shopping Directory Hotels

Bucharest April - May 2015

Old Town  A complete guide guide to Bucharest’s liveliest area

Essential Bucharest Everything you always wanted to know about the Romanian capital but were afraid to ask 

inyourpocket.com N°94 - 15.00 lei

Contents E S S E N T I A L   CITY

GUI DES

ONE OF THE BEST

Arriving & Getting Around

6

Children’s Bucharest

15

Restaurants

16

 The tastiest tastie st places in the city to eat

Nightlife

34

 The city ’s best pubs and clubs  The UK newspaper The Independent recently published a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: inyourpocket.com was yourpocket.com  was the third name on that list: “Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so), the In Your Pocket  city   city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities have been given the In Your Pocket   treatment, and all the key content from the print editions has been collated on this well-organised and userfriendly website. It also includes a series of YouTube vi  vignettes. gnettes.””

Sightseeing

Don’t leave Bucharest without seeing the essentials

Old Town

50

Where Bucharest Bucharest goes to party part y

Shopping

65

Souvenirs, local designers and local wine

Hotels

68

Directory

75

Maps Street register

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

41

78-81 82

 April - May 2015

3

Foreword Where on earth have all those years gone? It feels like only yesterday that In Your Pocket  turned   turned up in Romania, wet behind the ears with dreams of dropping a half-decent city guide on the country’s capital Bucharest. That we managed to do so, so, and that we we this issue celebrate no fewer than 16 years in the business is testament not to our staying power, but to the simple fact that Bucharest grabbed us with both arms, pulled us to her ample bosom and refused let us go. It’s that kind of city: you don’t visit, live or work in Bucharest, it visits, lives and works in you. And we doubt anyone would have it any other way. Bucharest has seen many changes over the many years we have been publishing our little guide. The city has grown, become wealthier, more sophisticated and far more visitor friendly. One thing remains consistent, however: this is still  the smokiest city in Europe, very much the continent’s smoking section, where it is still very difficult to go anywhere to eat or drink without your clothes reeking of tobacco by the end of the night. Surely, 16 years on, it’s time for this to finally change?

Bucharest In Your Pocket IYP Romania Srl Str. Jiului 93, Ap. 14 Bucuresti, Sector 1 Romania  Tel.  T el. (+4) 021 321 44 18 [email protected] ISSN 1454-5276 © IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In   is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of Your Pocket  is Circulation (BRAT).

Editorial Editor  Craig Turp All Photography © IYP Romania Srl unless otherwise stated Cover © Alberto Grosescu @ Dreamstime.

COVER STORY

Sales  To  T o contact a member of our sales team send an email to the address [email protected] , or call our office and ask for the sales department.

 This sculp sculpture ture at the south southern ern entrance to Herastrau Park (see page 49) stands in stark contrast with the modern office building on the other side of Piata Charles de Gualle. Part of the same photo (by Alberto Grosescu @ Dreamstime) also featured on the cover of a recent BIYP Mini-Guide .

Copyright notice  Text,  T ext, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2015 unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of its review, without written permission from the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket   is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket  (Bernadinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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4 

Bucharest In

Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket   is currently carrying out a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Milan in Italy and Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot.  And  there   there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to: we will be rolling out the new inyourpocket.com throughout April and May. In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket , like us on Facebook   (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter  (twitter.com/  (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Arriving & Getting Around Around  ARRIVING AT OTOPENI

 ARRIVING AT AT GARA DE DE NORD If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues, tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs, shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC . It even now has free Wifi. To get to town take an honest taxi from the official taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approaches you inside the station). Currently, only taxis from two reliable Bucharest companies, Meridian  and Pelican, are allowed to pick up fares here. If no taxi is waiting, use one of the two touch screens to order one. You can also hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata Victoriei, or take the bus: No. 123 goes to Piata Unirii, and trolleybus No. 85 to Piata Universitatii. Tram 44 goes to Cismigiu. Tickets (in the form of a Card Activ ) from the kiosk next to the bus stop (itself next to the taxi rank).

WARNING : None of Bucharest’s reputable hostels send people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains. Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got off the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and divert you from your intended destination (often by saying that the place you want to go to is closed) towards another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to you. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away.

6 

Bucharest In

Your Pocket

Bucharest’s only commercial airport is Otopeni (officialBucharest’s ly Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the DN1. Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious, efficient airport. After getting off the plane and easing your way through passport control, you’ll find yourself in the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services on offer here, especially the currency exchange desks. Instead, grab your luggage (if it fails to arrive head for the small office on the right hand of side of the exit), and head off through customs to the arrivals area. Here there are loads of ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To the right is a passage leading to the departures terminal, lined with car hire desks and a few shops, including a chemist.  To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the arrivals  To hall. They They are fully automated and very ver y easy to use (and offer multiple-language options), and you can choose a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed. Once the taxi company has informed you (via a ticket which comes out of the machine) how long the taxi will take to arrive, and what ID number the taxi has, you simply go outside to wait for it. Make sure you get into the correct taxi: check the company name and ID number is the same as on the ticket. Ignore the Rapid  taxis  taxis which wait on the lower level. For those who want to head into town in a bit more comfort than your average visitor, there are three good private car options: TransVision (airport-transfer-bucharest.com) and VMS City Shuttle  (cityshuttle.ro). Both companies offer a comfortable, reliable airport transfer service at decent prices. You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes during the day, and then every 40 minutes throughout the night. The full timetable of the 783 bus is online at ratb.ro. Another bus, the 780, runs from the airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly every 30 minutes. You need to purchase an  Activ Card  before boarding (get it from the little booth which you’ll find on your right-hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but there is no time limit l imit on using the return). ret urn). You You also need to pay 3.70 lei for the card itself, but it can be recharged as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, and used on all Bucharest buses, trolleybuses and trams. The cards cannot be bought on board. There is also a train which connects the airport to the main railway station, Gara de Nord. The train departs at irregular intervals, however, and to get to the airport’s station you need to take a minibus. Tiickets are available from a counter in the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign. bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Arriving & Getting Around Around PUBLIC TRANSPOR TRANSPORT T Bucharest is served by an extensive public transport network, made up of bus, trolleybus, tram and metro. All forms of public transport in Bucharest are very cheap.

BUCHAREST METRO First opened in 1979, Bucharest’s metro was built to ship workers from the vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni  and  and Militari  out  out to the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor . That’s all very ver y well if you are resident of Titan working at IMGB, but useless to everybody else. The city centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south M2 line, from Pipera to Berceni , which passes through Piatas Victoriei , Romana and Unirii , and the

BUCHAREST TAXIS By and large, Bucharest’s numerous cheap and trustworthy yellow taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone number of the company they are associated with. To counter this, however, dodgy taxis also plaster phone numbers over their cars, alongside copy-cat logos. Be extra careful when getting into a taxi around Gara de Nord , Piata Universitatii , Piata Unirii  and  and the Old Town / Lipscani area. When leaving a hotel or restaurant, always have the concierge or waiter order you a cab. Never pay more than 1.69 lei per kilometre in any  taxi.  taxi. As an alternative to the standard taxis, there are also now a couple of companies offering a more professional Cab and VMS service and smarter cars. These are Black Cab and CityShuttle.. Black Cab is a taxi service which offers cabs CityShuttle at much the same price as standard taxis, the only difference being that there is a minimum charge (14 lei). Regular users can pay monthly, and - best of all - Black Cabs will travel to the suburbs (Pipera and the like: many ordinary taxis will not). Black Cabs cannot be hailed on the street, but can be pre-ordered in a number of ways.  Take  T ake a look look at blackcab blackcab.ro .ro.. VMS CityShuttle is similar, with all fares being a fixed price. They also offer airport transfers and run tours of Bucharest and its surroundings, as well as the Prahova Valley Valley and southern Transylvania. Transylvania. See Uber is the website cityshuttle.ro for more details. Uber  is also now present in Bucharest, so if you have an Uber  account  account and the app your phone you can use it while in the city. Prices are much the same as standard taxis, except that there is a minimum fee of six lei.

TRUSTED TAXI COMPANIES: Apolodor 021 9499,  Autogeneral  021 9401, Cobalcescu  021 9451, Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Meridian 021 9444, Mondial  021 9423, Pelicanul  021 9665. Most of these companies have at least one operator who speaks English. Some of Bucharest’s taxi companies now have smartphone apps. The best is CleverTaxi : search for it on Google Play  or  or the  App Store. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

 April - May 2015

7

 Arriving & Getting Around Around

M1 branch to the Gara de Nord , are likely to be of any use to visitors. In our listings, all venues which are within walking distance of a metro station carry the M symbol.

METRO TICKETS  Tickets for the Bucharest metro are cheap: they cost either 5 lei (valid for two trips; doua calatorii ) or 20 lei (ten trips;  zece calatorii ) and can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi ),), costing 8 lei. The metro runs from around 05:00 to 23:00. TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES �RATB� Most main roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different transport routes. Many buses are overcrowded, however, however, and travelling on them can often be a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from very early in the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the extensive night bus network takes over.. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii . over

RATB TICKETS  To use a bus, trolleybus trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit (minimum 5 lei) and are reusable. The card is then debited each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located on buses, trams and trolleybuses. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On all forms of public transport in Bucharest children under the age of seven travel free. After After that they need a full-price ticket.

313 31 3 26 42, www.cfr.ro w ww.cfr.ro.. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

AVIS A delivery and collection service is available free

Given that Romania‘s roads are terrible, it‘s comforting to know that the country‘s railways are equally crap. Having said that, many long years of upgrade work on the

Bucharest In

AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFR’s advance booking offices. QA-4, Calea Grivitei 139, M Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021

CAR RENTAL IN BUCHAREST

TRAINS

8 

Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now complete, and journey times are back to something approaching 1989 levels: around two hours and 30 mins to Brasov, just under two hours to Constanta. Should you have to take a train, always try to get an InterCity (IC) or InterRegio  ( IR) as they are the fastest and usually have the most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains are slow and often use much older rolling stock. You will also see trains designated as ICN : these are InterCity trains which stop at more stations than usual. Prices on all types of train are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei. To buy train tickets visit either the station, a CFR agency or buy online at cfrcalatori.ro. (Note that if buying online you need to do so at least 24 hours in advance). Tickets cannot be purchased on board CFR trains, though you can try bribing the guard. Many locals do this habitually. On the privately run Hyperion train, however. which departs Bucharest for Brasov at 09:00 each morning, you can buy tickets on board. There is also free Wifi and a coffee machine: a refreshing change to CFR. Tickets cost just 25 lei. There is, alas, just the one private train per day at the moment, although more may follow soon. For more info, see the t he website softrans.ro. The full Romanian train timetable is online at cfrcalatori.ro.

Your Pocket

of charge within the city limits; the service is on request, and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office. QB-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Arriving & Getting Around Around TOURIST INFORMATION

50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.

INFO TOURIST CENTER Privately-run centre on Calea Victoriei which is phenomenally helpful and perhaps per haps even better than the city’s official tourist information office. Open Sundays.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021 211 33 66. Open 9:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

CARS4RENT

QStr.

Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter), tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4) 021 352 87 16, offi[email protected], offi[email protected], www.cars4rent.ro www.cars4rent.ro.. Open 24 hrs.

COMPACT RENT�A�CAR (One Star Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210 69 12, [email protected], [email protected], www.avis.ro www.avis.ro.. Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021 314 314 18 37, 37, Open 08:00 0 8:00 - 20:00; 20:0 0; Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 15:00, Closed Sun.

BAVARIA RENT QDrumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22 28, www.bavariaren w ww.bavariarent.ro t.ro.. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport, tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4)) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00- 02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00. (+4

BUDGET

Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28 67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, www.budgetro.ro. www.budgetro.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201

B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4) 021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, offi[email protected],, www.compact-rentacar.ro rentacar.ro www.compact-rentacar.ro..  Prices from €18/day.

EUROPCAR

QA-4,

Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, [email protected],, [email protected] www.europcar.ro.. www.europcar.ro Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi.

HERTZ

QD-6,

QPiata

Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, office 1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, www.hertz.ro www.hertz.ro.. Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00.

QB-4,

10  Bucharest In Your Pocket

SIXT NEW KOPEL

QCalea

Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4) 021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, [email protected], [email protected], www.sixt.ro.. Open 09:00 - 17:30. www.sixt.ro

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Bucharestt Basics Buchares WHEN THINGS GO WRONG In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city code. You will be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/ Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak English or French but in our experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you know the name of the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is a list on page 77. The city‘s main police station is at (B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to Dinamo Stadium. There is a list of Pharmacies  on page 77, and an English-speaking Dentist on page 75.

CRIME & SAFETY We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs in the city’s less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded buses), violent crime is unheard of, and even women can walk the city’s cit y’s streets alone at night in relative safety. The Romanian police force is also far better and less corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the city’s streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town Town at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and Piata Victoriei. If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to speak to your embassy. There is a list on page 77. In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharest’s many problems, crime really is one of the least of them.

LEFT LUGGAGE Gara de Nord  offers  offers left luggage facilities, but no lockers. You will find the left luggage counter opposite the Wasteels office. The charge is 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a bigger bag. You will need ID.

MONEY Romania’s currency is the leu  (plural lei ),), divided into 100 bani. Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. There are also 50, 10, 5 and 1bani  coins.  coins. €1 is currently worth 4.44 lei. The best place to get your hands on lei  is at an ATM. If you have to change cash, do it inside a bank. Credit and debit cards (MasterCard  and   and Visa) are accepted almost everywhere.  American Express cards are less widely accepted, but can usually be used in Bancpost  ATMs.  ATMs. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

 April - May 2015

11

Bucharest Basics STRAY DOGS

POLITICS In November 2014 the Mayor of Sibiu Klaus Iohannis - an ethnic German - caused a major surprise by defeating Victor Ponta in the second round run-off of Romania’s presidential election. The margin of victory - ten per cent - was enormous, despite Ponta being Romania’s serving prime minister. Iohannis will now serve a maximum of two five-year terms as Romania’s head of state. Ponta remains the country’s prime minister and head of government (which wields most executive power), although the scale of his defeat in the presidential election, as well as the fact that tha t his party, the PSD, has become a byword for corruption, make it highly unlikely that he will remain in office much longer. The next parliamentary elections in Romania are scheduled for 2016, but most independent political observers expect an early election to be held at some stage later this year.

TOILETS  There are decent public toilets at Piata Victoriei Victoriei metro station (free), and at Gara de Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu). You will find free  portaloos around the city, but these should be used only by the very desperate. Otherwise, find the nearest McDonald’s  and make use of their facilities. (Note, however, that entrance to some McDonald’s toilets in Bucharest is protected with a four-digit code, which you will get when you buy something). 12  Bucharest In Your Pocket

 They’ve gone. Yep Yep,, while you may still spot the odd stray here and there, the number of strays terrorising the Romanian capital’s streets has been decreasing fast. As such, it’s perhaps time to recognise that many areas of the capital are now dog free. The agency responsible for dealing with stray dogs, ASPA, published in January a report which would suggest the dog problem is indeed becoming a thing of the past: it estimates the number of strays in Bucharest to now be as low as 4,000: that’s a huge decrease since the last major dog census was carried out in 2013, when there were almost 65,000. This of course begs the question: Where have all the dogs gone? To be perfectly honest, we don’t really care, but according to ASPA around 20,000 have been adopted, 2,000 remain in shelters and 26,000 have been put down. What’s important of course is that the dogs are no longer on our streets, and that things stay that way: dog numbers have fallen in the past (although never as low as current levels) only to increase again very quickly. Keeping the streets safe is an ongoing task. It is also a shame that a small boy had to die before something got done. Should you be bitten during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei Bals , (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) ( +4) 021 318 60 90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be administered both an anti-tetanus and the first of three anti-rabies jabs (the others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You You will also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics.

SO WHERE AM I? Situated in that part of the world which will perhaps always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate to describe Bucharest’s geographical location as south-eastern Europe. Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is in a part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Transylvania). The official population of Bucharest is  just under two milli million, on, but as many migrants from the rest of the country do not register as citizens of the capital, the true number is probably closer to three million. Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69 kilometres to the south), the border between Romania and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side of the river. Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and the Black Sea coast: the journey can be done in just over two hours. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a two hour drive away from the capital. bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Bucharest Basics

 A BRIEF BRIEF HISTO HISTOR RY OF BUCH BUCHARES AREST T Bucharest is a relatively new city: mention of it is not made until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler), ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia from c. 12901300. It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian court. This was based in what is today known as the Old  Town,  T own, around the Curtea Veche. Veche. The city was sacke sacked d for the first time in 1476 by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554. During Mihai Bravu’s uprising against the Turks in 1594, Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians) Bucharest suffered plague and famine for much of the rest of the 1600s. It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharest’s fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay - while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home. The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trusting local Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople, Phanar ) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During this time the city grew in size and importance, impor tance, despite regular disasters: there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804 and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14, during which as many as 40,000 people died. While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left 14  Bucharest In Your Pocket

Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843) oversaw sweeping changes. In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada Smardan, Wallachia’s nascent parliament elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as the principality’s new ruler. Given that the Moldavian parliament had elected the same man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia in effect created the first state of Romania. Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914), Romania’s first king. Electricity Electr icity was introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World , in 1906. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to host the fair. During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Europe’s most dynamic, and architecturally avant-garde cities. Large numbers of art deco buildings were constructed around the city. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter part of World War II, but in comparison with much of Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist authorities installed by the Soviet Union at the end of the war therefore initially made their mark not by rebuilding the city but by greatly extending it. The population doubled from 900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million in 1980. In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the city’s history killed more than 1,500 people. Many buildings were destroyed or damaged beyond repair, and Romania’s leader Nicolae Ceausescu took the opportunity to remodel the city in his own vision. By 1989 almost a fifth of Bucharest had been destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic . Bucharest was the scene of the heaviest fighting during the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni Airport. Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to grow,, although much of that growth has been outside the grow city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million (2011 census). bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Bucharest Basics BUCHAREST WITH CHILDREN Visiting the Romanian capital with kids? The outdoor Village Museum (p. Museum (p. 42) is as good a place as any to start: its many houses, windmills and wooden churches will fascinate young minds, while there are usually activities at weekends for children. The excellent confectionery stall at the entrance, selling home-made sweets, cakes and such like, will also be a hit. Of the city’s other museums, History (p. 41) the Peasant (p. 42), Grigore Antipa Natural History (p. Technical (p. and Technical  (p. 48) are probably the most suited to children, particularly older kids. You can get to them all riding around on the top deck of a Bucharest City Tour sightseeing bus. See page 44. parks,, Bucharest is blessed with a number of good parks and all of them have lots to offer. There are playgrounds in all of them, pleasure boat rides on the lake in Herastrau, rowing boats in both Herastrau and Cismigiu. See page 49. Perhaps the park most suited to children Tineretului in however is Tineretului  in the south of the city (take the metro to Tineretului ).). It has loads of very good and big playgrounds, and you can hire bikes at the main entrance. On the far side of the park (take the metro to Constantin Brancovean Brancoveanuu) is Oraselul Copiilor (Child Copiilor (Children’ ren’ss City) - a large funfair whose attractions include a big wheel and some very scary rides strictly for the brave. bikes at one of three I’Velo rental centres You can hire bikes at located at the entrance to Herastrau and Tineretului parks. Bikes cost 4 lei per hour, or 15 lei for a full day.  The under 16s and over 65s can hire bikes for free (but for a maximum of two hours). You will need ID. There are also a couple of adventure parks within reach of Bucharest. The one we recommend is Edenland (edenland.ro) land  (edenland.ro) in Balotesti, north of the city. You will need your own transport to get there (a taxi will be happy to take you, but it might be tricky finding one to bring you back). Edenland offers a range of adventure trails for kids (and adults, for that matter) of all ages, as well as paintball, archery and other outdoor activities. Bucharest’s best water park    - open from the end of Divertiland (divertiland.ro) May - is Divertiland  (divertiland.ro) on the western edge of the city: bus No. 237 from Piata Operei stops right outswim there side the entrance. For kids who just want to swim  there are pools open to the public at most of the five-star hotels. See pages 68-69. Opera  (p. 35) puts on chil  The Romanian National Opera (p. dren’s matinees most weekend mornings at 11:00. Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly child-friendly,, even if the amount of smoke in some of them means that you will probably not want to enter with your kids.  Those deserving a special mention include the big hotels, all of which have kids’ entertainers during their brunches, and the Hard Rock Cafe (p. 16): always happy to see kids and packed with them at weekends. You can find our full Children’s Bucharest listings online at: beta.inyourpocket.com/bucharest/features facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Restaurants SYMBOL KEY P Air conditionin conditioning g

N Credit cards not accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking E Live music G No smoking

B Outside seating

 Take ake away S  T

W Wifi

ROMANIAN CASA DOINA Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an integral part of the city’s rich tapestry. This classy place pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb, and in a city where standards standa rds rise only to fall so often, Casa Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. The location is worthy of the food, on posh Soseaua Kiseleff in a quiet, leafy setting. The splendid terrace is a joy when the weather allows.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67 17/(+4) 0745 00 90 09, www.casadoina.ro. Open 11:00 01:00. €€€. PLEBSW

CORSO BRASSERIE & TERRACE We brought our mother-in-law here recently to try out the sarmale, and after careful consideration she admitted that they were even better than her own: now that’s high praise indeed. In a top location in the InterContinental , overlooking Bulevardul Magheru, if this place doesn’t occupy the very best people-watching spot in the whole of the city, then we don’t know where does. Open for breakfast, lunch (usually an excellent value buffet) and dinner, it is seriously good. Oh, and then there is the Sunday Brunch which we think is currently just about the best in the city.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 021 310 310 20 20. Open 06:30 0 6:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00, 23:0 0, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 195 lei/pers, children under six free, children between six and 12 half price. €€€. PTLEGBW

the property of Elena Lupescu, mistress of King Carol II. Huge, set over two levels, the house is surrounded by a large courtyard and garden, which is superb in the right weather.QD-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 51, tel. (+4) 0725 00 80 05, www.citygrill.ro/home-hanu-berarilor. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. €€€. PSW

HANU’ BERARILOR CASA SOARE Housed in the former Casa Bucur  (a  (a place you could write a book about) it is a very good Romanian restaurant serving the kind of food you only usually get in people’s homes. Seriously: only in two or three other places in Bucharest will you find carnati de oaie   (mutton sausages) or bors de peste. If you are feeling really hungry go for the  platou mioritic : a huge plate of meaty treats.QB-6, Str. Poenaru Bordea 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 80 09/(+4) 0729 40 08 00, www.hanuberarilor.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PEBSW

LA COCOSATU We put out an appeal on our Facebook fan page for the best mici   in the city. The response was immediate and overwhelming: Cocosatu’ uber alles. A bit of a trek from the city centre (it is just around the corner from the now closed Baneasa Airport) the mici here are indeed the best we have tasted: big, tangy, made with loads of mutton and a few spices for extra kick. The ultimate Bucharest mici experience, and all at peanuts prices. QStr. Neagoe Voda 52 A, tel. (+4) 021 232 87 96, www. lacocosatu.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €. PLSW

LOCANTA JARISTEA  This is that rarit rarityy in Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant.  The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining rooms, service and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the best vintage wines Romania has ever produced.QB-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52, tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38/ (+4) 0721 96 19 36, www.jaristea.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLESW

ROSSETYA Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder GOOD OLD TIMES �GOLDEN TULIP TIMES HO� TEL� A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring Featuring a very good range of Romanian and international dishes, the menu here changes regularly, usually in time with the seasons. The young chef is not afraid to try something new and different and note that if you fancy something which is not on the menu, don’t be afraid to ask. Good local wine list. Note the B -dul Decebal 19, M Pilast kitchen order is at 22:30.QE-6, B-dul ata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.restauranttimes. ro. Open 12:00 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. €€ €. PLGSW

than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As such, this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de vacuta aromat   cu cognac: tender beef sauteed in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the  iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food. QC-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20, www.rossetya. ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. €€. PSW

HANU’ BERARILOR CASA ELENA LUPESCU

VATRA RESTAURANT We have been eating here for

Offering much the same (such as great pork knuckle) as the Hanul Berarilor  closer   closer to the city centre this place (run by the same people) is located in a house that was once

years and we can’t recommend the place highly enough. You really will have go a long way to find better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced restaurant

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Restaurants

close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici  and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with. QB-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00, www.vatra.ro. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PLSW

 AMERICAN & BURGERS BUFFALO BAZ Seriously good burgers of a size just about unsurpassed anywhere else in the city. Not the biggest place in the world you might have to wait for a seat at busy times, but wait you should: the quality of the burgers is outstanding and while far from cheap, for what you get you are paying relatively little. Good choice of side dishes too (the fries are way above average) and the noodles are well worth trying. For dessert, the cheesecake awaits (if they have any left: it goes fast). Oh, and bring the kids: 47,, tel. (+4) they will love the place.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 47 0736 36 83 35. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. PLSW

some more refined, slow food options. Famously good cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than you could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott : up the stairs as you go in and to your right.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www.championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€. PTLSW

HARD ROCK CAFE One of the largest Hard Rocks in Europe, you can’t go wrong here, whatever time of day you visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well looked after, and have their own menu), dinner with the crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as they should be, and the service comes from smiley waitresses and expert exper t bar staff. We love it. Let’s rock.QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/ bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTLESW

CHAMPIONS Still serving one of the very best burgers in

NEW VIVO Burgers - big, tasty ones - and much more besides.

Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone we’ve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact, now we think of it, the portions of everything here are enormous: even the children’s servings are very healthy indeed. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection of American pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even

We tried the Game of Dijons burger, a right monster packed with all sorts of treats, from parmesan and cheddar to truffle oil and a seriously good mustard sauce. You will do well to finish it. There are also fine ribs, chunky soups and even salads. Desserts as immense as everything else, and the only disappointment were the fries: frie s: not the best in the city. Worth going though, for the burgers alone, if you can

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Restaurants Floreasc a 60, get a table: this place is popular.QC-3, Calea Floreasca tel. (+4) 021 233 96 88, www.vivofoodbar.com. Open 12:00 12 :00 - 23:00. 23:0 0. €€€. PSW

BRITISH THE TRAFALGAR PUB Popular with all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal for little money while enjoying usually decent company.  The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend both the beef and chicken pies - but best of all we like the ciorba de vacuta - one of the best in the city. There is both Guinness and Kilkenny on draught: both at a decent price. You really can’t go wrong. Get there now.QC-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51, www. trafalgarpub.eu. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. €€€. PLVESW

FOOD & DRINK What do we mean by Food & Drink ? Simple: places in which you could just as easily sit down and have a three course meal as you could spend a night on the beer or cocktails.

18 LOUNGE Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the place to come people. On the 18th floor of one of the tallest office buildings in the city, this place doesn’t need to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little trendy but never kitsch. We like it.QA-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. €€€. PLW

EMBASSY Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and original Embassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town) has been around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it is. Serving a good gourmet burger and much else besides (including some great cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until very late. We usually do.QC-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.ro. Open 11:00 - 03:00. €€€. PSW

THE HARBOUR A top location, in Piata Amzei, with food to match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average, though the real joy of this place is its view to the market. We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town.QB-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, M Piata Romana, tel. tel . (+4) 021 319 319 72 57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86, www.harbour.ro. Open 11:30 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. €€. PLVSW facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Restaurants vegans to choose from. Opens for breakfast - start your day with the Dementa omelette, made with mushrooms and mint - while the inventive pizzas (all a bit different and more creative than you find elsewhere) are amongst the best in the city. A tasty selection of soups, salads and seafood round off a highly impressive selection of well-priced St r. Paris 17, M Piata Victoriei, Vic toriei, tel. (+4) 0740 0740 treats.QB-3, Str. 12 34 55, www.musebistro.ro. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €€€.

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GERMAN BERARIA SIEGFRIED

FRENCH ICI ET LA As regular readers will know we are suckers for an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08, www.icietla.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€.

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L’ATELIER � L’ART CULINAIRE  This is a restaurant where art means putting together original dishes of the highest order, all prepared by the amazing head chef. American Black Angus beef cooked in a Cabernet sauce and served with potato p otato and black truffle puree: you will not find such things on too many menus in Bucharest. For those of you who like your desserts, the lemon cake with caremelized meringue and homemade ice cream is a dream come true. Find it in the  Hotel Epoque: it is as fine and elegant as the hotel itself.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C (Epoque Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.latelier-restaurant. ro. Open 12:00 – 23:00. €€€€. PLBSW

FUSION

Pork knuckles, plates of sausages and schnitzels the size of plates: that’s what you are getting at Siegfried . Impressively, they bring the ciolan (knuckle) to your table to weigh it so you know exactly how big a challenge you are setting yourself: trust us, they are huge and only the very hungriest of diners will finish one. The house beer is excellent and comes in a choice of pils, white or unfiltered varieties, and is even available by the metre.QB-6, Str. Lipscani 29, M Izvor, tel. (+4) 0756 01 40 41, www. berariasiegfried.ro. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. €€€. PSW

DIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE  This place has remained more or less unchanged in 18 years (it opened in 1996), and that’s just the way that we and all the other happy regulars like it. Serving giant portions of great German sausages sausage s (all made on the premises) as well as huge pork knuckles, seriously good kraut and a Hunter Schnitzel  the  the size of the Bismarck it also has a couple of cracking German beers on draught. Service comes with a smile from the family team who own and run the place, and you will usually need a reservation at weekends. Once the weather warms up, head for the beer garden, which comes complete with one of those German beer flagpole things. Brilliant.QC-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 62/(+4) 0722 28 45 60, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€.

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LOFT LOUNGE  The truth is the food here is amongst the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best chef in the country. It’s not just us who say so either. Ask anybody in the city who knows their food and you get the same reply: it’s brilliant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood dominates), cooked to perfection. The squid served with risotto, for example: it sounds so simple yet it’s a taste sensation. Not cheap of course, but worth the cost.QC-4, Bdul Iancu de Hunedoara 56-60, M Stefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0756 38 56 38, ww www.loftlou w.loftlounge.ro. nge.ro. Open 12:00 12:00 16:00, 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. PLESW

MUSE BISTRO While not a vegetarian restaurant per se (they serve seafood, fish and use eggs) there is no meat on the menu here, and there is plenty on the menu for both vegetarians and 20  Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Restaurants INDIAN KARISHMA A good Indian-in-Bucharest option where the menu boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat in these parts where the raw material is so hard to find. There is much more besides of course, including an extensive range of vegetarian veget arian food, and the chefs will happily tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice tolerance levels. The place itself is nice and the staff know their stuff.QD-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021 252 51 57, www.karishma.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00. €€€.

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INTERNATIONAL BISTRO MON CHER One of those places that merits praise simply for having been around for so long. We’ve been coming here for years, and have always loved the welcoming atmosphere and simple, tasty bistro food.  There is something for everyone, from f rom sandwiches for the lunchtime crowd to good coffee and even hot chocolate for the kids. Leafy terrace in summer.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 20-28, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46 98/(+4) 0731 27 38 20, www.bistromoncheri.ro. Open 08:00 - 06:00. €€€. PVSW

CHEZ MARIE Popular with the crowd from the UK embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez Marie serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are likely to find in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts, while we have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharest’s very best. best . Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice. QC-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 031 107 20 33/(+4) 0730 34 48 10, www.chezmarie.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW

GARGANTUA Bright and airy place that gloriously lets the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 0726 55 56 93/(+4) 0722 70 25 60, www.restaurantgargantua.ro www.restaurantga rgantua.ro.. Open 09:00 09: 00 - 24:00. €€€.

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LA BRASSERIE Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasserie is now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard  for that) and more about good quality, simple food for all the family. The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for families or groups on the run.  The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than ever.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Open 06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers, children between six and 12 years half price, children under six free. €€€. PEGSW facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Restaurants ROMANIAN FOOD Romanian food, rich in Turkish, Hungarian and German influences, isis rather good. An example of top Romanian Romanian fare is the classic sour soup, ciorba. Made of borş (a sour, honey-coloured liquid made of wheat and cornflour), the tradition of making sour soups is Ukrainian, but was perfected in Moldavia and later Muntenia. In theory anything can go into a ciorba, though the most popular are ciorba de legume (made with vegetables), ciorba de vacuta (made with beef), ciorba de burta (made with tripe) and ciorba de perişoare (made with pork meatballs). While you will often see ciorba de pui (ciorba made with chicken), chicken is more popular in clear soups, served with dumplings ( galuşte), carrots and parsnips. At more formal meals a number of cold appetizers – known as gustare reci  –   – will usually be served before the ciorba. These include cheese, olives, spring onions, salami, tomatoes and boiled eggs. Sometimes there may also be a platter of warm appetizers (gustare calde), such as carnaţi de  pleşco  ple şcoi i  (mutton   (mutton sausages), ficaţei de pui (chicken livers), ciu perci  per ci umpl umplute ute (stuffed mushrooms), or mici . These are spicy little sausage-shaped meatballs meatballs made of mutton, beef and pork. They are delicious. While main courses can sometimes be a disappointment, there are always some superb options in good restaurants, such as the celebrated sarmale  (cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with mince and rice), or tocaniţa (thick stew, usually pork). If you see ciolan afumat  on   on a menu, it is worth trying: smoked pork knuckle served ser ved with beans. Romanian pork in general is superb. Mamaliga is a Romanian version  polent entaa made of cornmeal, whose stodginess has long of pol been compared to the Romanian temperament.  Though  Thou gh Rom Roman ania ia boas boasts ts a no nott insi insign gnifi ifica cant nt coas coastli tline ne alo along ng the Black Sea, the standard of its seafood can be poor. There is, however, an increasingly large number of specialist seafood restaurants in Bucharest, although much of the fish they serve will be imported and priced accordingly. Look out too for hamsii : tasty, deep fried anchovies. Sweets in Romania are sweet indeed. Pancakes (clatite) served with chocolate or jam and covered in sugar are a popular dessert, as are papanaşi : deep fried doughnuts filled with jam, or sometimes cottage cheese. Look out too for Romanian cakes ( prăjituri ),), usually made with lashings of fresh cream. Finally, a note about some culinary habits you may come across in the country‘s restaurants. Fries, for example, often come covered with grated cheese. When ordering you can avoid this by stating ‘fara branza pe cartofi prajiţi .’ There There is also a local habit of throwing sour cream ( smântana) on everything, especially in ciorbe  and soups. A simple ‘fara smântana, vă rog’ will suffice. Most bizarre however is the local tendency to cover perfectly good pizza with ketchup. 22  Bucharest In Your Pocket

LA VERANDA  The feather in the Crowne Plaza ’s cap, this is now the hotel’s flagship restaurant, a work of great detail where everything is lovingly prepared by exec chef Ashlie Dias who has been here for years - and his highly experienced team. Based around Mediterranean cuisine you can always expect to find something exotic and a bit different on the daring menu. An indulgent treat, and the brunch is fabulous, while on Tuesday evenings at 6pm there’s a very good value Asian buffet for 115 lei.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www. laveranda.ro. Open 06:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:30, 12:30 - 16:30, 18:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:30, 185 lei per person, children 92.50 lei. €€€€. PLEW

SALON GOLESCU Gorgeous little place close to the Hilton which will have you cooing with delight the moment you walk in. Sit yourself at one of the tables, the bar, or a leather armchair and order from a rather eclectic menu of very good food.  There are good tapas, while we thought the best of the main dishes were the super Thai fishcakes. There is a good cocktail list, loads of excellent whisky and the wine list is exceptional if rather expensive.QC-4, Str. Nicolae Golescu 17, tel. (+4) 031 436 03 38, www.salongolescu.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 12:00 - 04:0 0, Sun 12:00 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PESW

UPTOWN BAR & GRILL Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city, the city’s wealthiest people come here to eat. The real draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even when it’s raining outside. The food is good, a mix of Italian-esque and modern European dishes, which share a menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value for money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace.QB-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, www.uptown.ro. Open 10:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PLBSW

ITALIAN ALT SHIFT When you walk in you immediately see why this place is the current choice of many designers and arty types: the interior is as contemporary as it gets, the high ceilings giving the place the feel of a New York loft. The food is much like the place itself: contemporary with a traditional twist, and with plenty for vegetarians to enjoy. Found above what is quite possibly our favourite Bucharest club, Control , the place stays open - with a slightly limited menu - into the early hours at weekends for those hungry clubbers looking for pre or post-party snacks.QC-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0372 98 02 25, www. altshift.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PW bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

CAFFE CITTA Styled as a Northern Nor thern Italian city centre cafe/

CUCINA Bright and breezy, Cucina at the  JW Marriott  is

bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 021 601 34 3 4 36/(+4) 021 021 311 311 90 00, www.caffe-cit w ww.caffe-citta. ta. ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PLGBW

a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the city. All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the premises No fewer than 26 good Italian reds grace the Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott wine menu.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www. cucinarestaurant.ro. Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PLESW

CAPRICCIOSA A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria

GRANO An Italian the likes of which many of the other

whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do truffles and, let’s face it, you don’t see those every day on a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates that top restaurants don’t have to be flash.QB-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4) 021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99 (+) 0723 26 90 30, www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW

so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream of becoming. Serving simple yet delicious food - such as the saffron risotto - that will have you telling all your friends to come here, you can also buy many of the special ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and did we mention the chocolate cake?QC-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir 40, tel. (+4) 0731 14 14 81 87/( 87/(+4) +4) 021 231 23 86, ww www. w. grano.ro.. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PSW grano.ro

CASA DI DAVID You can say what you like about this

MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE Amazingly good Ital-

legendar y, high-class place, but to us it remains a very nice place to spend the evening. The food is ristorante Italian with a twist (the duck breast with citrus fruits is our pick of the current menu) and outstandingly good, with enough fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food lovers. Staff  are good and the wine list a cracker.QB-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 47 15/(+4) 0722 26 93 60, www. casadidavid.ro.. Open 12:30 - 23:30. €€€€. casadidavid.ro € €€€. PLSW

ian restaurant which simply knocks our socks off every time we come. Boasting a new chef, Cristian Marino, in the kitchen this winter, there is a new menu too and the place is quite simply better than ever: the InterContinental  is one of very few hotels in Bucharest which really does go the extra mile to make sure that us diners are kept happy. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, the giant

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 April - May 2015

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Restaurants LUNCH & EARLY EVENING BE NAT Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, coffee and cakes. Look out for the daily specials, while - if they have it - the gazpacho is as good as any in the city. Sit upstairs for the best views of the street below. QA-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03/(+4) 031 437 96 01, www. benat.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€.

PVGSW prawns come from Indonesia and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer. There is usually a pianist too. We love the place.QC-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06, www. restaurantmodigliani.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PLBW

ROBERTO’S A fabulous place. Boasting an open ope n kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private dining room, Roberto’s also has a fantastic chef: Marco Magri. The food is classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. It’s not cheap, but prices reflect the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set menu is in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, it’s worth every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the land, and the new Sunday Brunch complete with lobster  Thermidor and New Zealand lamb is top notch.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00, 185 lei per person, children (over six) 92 lei. €€€€. PTGSW

TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTE  They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed signature Don Vito  pasta was memorable. There is pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW

BOUTIQUE DU PAIN Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the best in the city, with office workers going out of their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner. Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate, we (and our kids!) love this place.QC-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00, www.boutiquedu ww w.boutiquedupain.com. pain.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 8:30 - 20:00. €€. PSW

OMNIVORE’S DILEMMA  Tiny place serving perhaps the best cooked lunch in central Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose from each day: ask the staff what’s good, hand over a pittance and try and bag a seat at one of the tables (there are only three or o r four). You You can take away if there is no space. The kind of place Bucharest needs loads more of.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 214, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€. PVGSW

JAPANESE EDO SUSHI In the courtyard of a splendid 1930s Calea Victoriei building is this excellent sushi restaurant which is as good as any to open in Bucharest, ever. A full range of sushi (maki, gunkan, nigiri and tamaki) is on offer, as well as lots of sashimi, some very tasty (and spicy) soups and even salad. And all at prices which are far below a couple of other sushi places in town we could mention. Indeed, the set menus - including the 29 lei lunch - are bargains.  The also do home delivery and take-away.QB-5, Calea 24  Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

Victoriei 122, tel. (+4) 0735 11 10 01/(+4) 0767 51 61 61, [email protected], www.edo-sushi.ro. Open 13:00 13 :00 - 23:30. €€€. PVGSW

YOSHI Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the best Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the setmenu at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting for a meal of this quality.QC-3, Str. Banul Antonache 4044, tel. (+4) 0749 97 95 21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro. Open 12:00 - 00:00. €€€€. PVSW

ZEN SUSHI Sushi - and then some. Indeed, given our love of all things soup and spicy, we couldn’t resist trying the spicy chicken soup, which was the prefec t compliment to the excellent and relatively well-priced sushi. There is a full teppanyaki menu too, and unlike certain other Japanese restaurants in Bucharest we could mention the food at this elegant place does not cost a fortune.QC-3, Str. George Calinescu 15, tel. (+4) 0722 16 17 18/(+4) 0735 93 69 36, www.zensushibucuresti.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. Also at (B-4) Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 56, 5 6, tel. (+4) 0752 02 25 94, 9 4, (+4) 0721 75 54 55, (C-7) Str. Calea Serban Voda 86, tel. (+4) 0722 96 16 43, (+4) 0767 23 20 94. €€€. PAVSW

KOREAN RESTAURANT SEOUL It has been a long, long time since Bucharest had a Korean restaurant worth the name, so it was with a heightened sense of anticipation that we headed off to Seoul . We were not disappointed. Everything on the menu is the real deal, from the spicy kimchi  soups   soups - made with all the right ingredients, shipped in especially - to the chicken, pork, beef and sea food dishes of which, for us, the Ojing-uh pokum stood out as genuinely superb.  They even have a range of Korean drinks, including Hite beer. Worth a visit.QA-2, Str. Aviator Mircea Zorileanu 89, tel. (+4) 021 667 21 19/(+4) 0725 49 83 66, www. restaurantkorean.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:30 22.30. €€€€. PLXSW facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

LEBANESE CHEZ TONI  Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, awayfrom-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from  Antaki ,  Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef.QC-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLBSW

ZAITOONE What have lovers of Lebanese food done to deserve so much quality choice? Here is another winner, a spacious, elegant place and the food more than lives up to the surroundings. There are loads of goods mezze, and the grilled meats and kebabs are exemplary. For dessert, the katayef are delicious: they even do a small portion if you can’t handle the full one! Oh, and note that they accept Amex cards (not many places in Bucharest do). Lovely lakeside terrace which can be enclosed and is open in all weathers.QB-1, Str. Nicolae Caramfil 2, tel. (+4) 0737 29 99 00/(+4) 037 620 37 41, www.zaitoone.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLSW

MEDIEVAL CRAMA TEMPLIERILOR A medieval extravanganza of a restaurant where you can sit at wooden tables - including a round one, just like King Arthur - and tuck into massive portions of all your medieval favourites, from pork knuckles to sausages and juicy steaks. There is live music most nights from a top taraf   band, and it’s very difficult not to have a good time here. Groups especially will love it, and your kids will too.QB-5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu 3, tel. (+4) 021 311 63 60, www.cramatemplierilor.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PVESW

MEDITERRANEAN GOCCIA A contemporary restaurant, very much an eatery in two parts. The first is more formal (although never stuffy): smart dining tables, bookcases and the like, the other a rather come-as-you-are area of soft seating, scatter  April - May 2015

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Restaurants cushions and simple tables. It is the food you want to hear about though: inventive Mediterranean cuisine with the right mix of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Larger groups will love this place as everyone will find something they like on the menu. The biggest surprise is the cost of eating here: not as expensive as you might think.QC-4, Str. George Enescu 23, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0785 23 89 10, www.goccia.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€.

JOSEPH BY JOSEPH HADAD Looking for gems such as a homemade ravioli with fillet of sea bass? Then get yourself here. This is an outstanding place in every way: not only is the food sensational sensatio nal - the menu is mainly Mediterranean but there is more than a hint of France too - but the villa in which it is served is also something of a Bucharest treasure. In brief, this is as good as moder n, contemporary dining gets in this city and a visit here is worth every penny (speaking of which, the set two-course lunch is a bargain).QB-2, Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan Cantacuzino 8, M Aviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33, ww www.josephrestau w.josephrestaurant. rant. ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLSW

SHARKIA Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining at the hotel’s latest restaurant. In place of Le Bistro what we have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern Mediterranean food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range of dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines and it’s all done with that magical Radisson swish.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PLG

TAPO Something different, and well worth the taxi ride from the city centre, this is a late-night, clubby restaurant for the city’s most happening people, where you come to eat and end up staying for something of a party well into the early hours (it is in the same complex as Barletto ). As such, the place could probably serve up a load of old tosh and still be popular: fortunately, with Florin Dumitrescu in the kitchen (one of Romania’s best-known chefs) you can rest assured the amazing food - and the rather special wine list - warrants a visit all on its own.QD-2, Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0747 08 30 83, www.tapo.ro. Open 11:00 - 04:00. €€€€. PLBW

MEXICAN/TEX MEX EL TORITO  Tex-Mex as it should be: spicy, tasty but free of frills. Expect the biggest and best burrittos burr ittos in the city, topped topped with lashings of tangy cheese; sizzlingly hot fajitas, no fewer than eight types of taco and - best of all - that splendid Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being dull: cream of corn soup. The super nachos are worth trying too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough to serve as a main course. In fact, beware: all the portions 26  Bucharest In Your Pocket

SUNDAY BRUNCH Sunday Brunch at one of the big five-star hotels in Bucharest is an institution not to be missed by any visitor. All trying to out do each other, all of the hotels go to great lengths to ensure that their brunch is the best. Besides an amazing selection of food the hotels also offer complimentary sparkling wine and lay on jazz bands and children’s entertainers. As such, you really can’t go wrong: just pick one of the big hotels ( Crowne Plaza - at La Brasserie, Hilton - at Robertos, InterContinental - at Corso, JW Marriott - at JW Steakhouse, Novotel - at Teatro or Radisson Blu - at Dacia Felix ) and reserve a table for next Sunday. All brunches start at around 12:00, and run until 16:00 or 16:30 and offer as much as you can eat for one price (around €40). here are supersized. Though Tho ugh you would be a fool to forego a nosh here, if you just fancy a drink at the bar nobody seems to mind. Let the margaritas and the mojitos flow. QC-4, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021 252 66 88/ (+4) 0728 17 17 60 59, www.eltorito.ro. ww w.eltorito.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. 24:0 0. €€. PVESW

MODERN EUROPEAN CAFE ATHENEE We love it. This is Bucharest’s village pub, where the city comes to meet and have a terrific breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu offers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger remains one of the best in the city.  There is also a bites menu of substantial finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger, wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at lunchtime.QC5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Open 08:0020:00. €€€. PESW

PRIME STEAKS & SEAFOOD Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here since Prime opened more than six years ago, ag o, what is perhaps Bucharest’s best restaurant recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford Prime which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amazing), ama zing), we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. And just about everything else. It’s genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last penny. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00/(+4) 021 601 34 02, www.prime-restaurant. ro. Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. PLG bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

MOLDOVAN LA PLACINTE Popular Moldovan chain of eateries (there are more than 10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes to the centre of Bucharest. Charmingly decorated in a brilliant mix of traditional and hip you will love it the moment you walk in. The food is good, and as the name suggests ( placinte means  pies)  there is a big range of pie on offer: potatoe pie, cheese pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie. They are all good, made fresh (so you might have to wait a bit) and come served piping hot. There is much else besides, including the entirely recommended  pelmeni, and the MolB- dul Dacia 20, M Piata Rodovan version of mici.QB-4, B-dul mana, tel. (+4) 031 410 80 21/(+4) 0755 05 56 22, www. laplacinte.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-4) Sos. Stefan Cel Mare 38, (C-4) B-dul Gheorghe Magheru 26, Str. Nicolae Caranfil 49. €€. PSW

PERUVIAN PERU BISTRO Fed up with hearing about new ne w dining concepts in Bucharest which turn out to be nothing of the sort? Well, here is something genuinely new and different: Peruvian cuisine. A fusion of South American and Asian you will find superb beef and pork steaks on the menu alongside some good fish. We were blown away by the beef served in a slightly spicy orange sauce (lomo salsa aji ) while the Leche assado is the perfect desert. The place itself is very nice: a large villa in the leafy north of the city. with a huge, gorgeous terrace at the rear in the right weather.QA-2, Str. Aviator Petre Creţu 63, tel. (+4) 0744 62 42 97, www.perubistro. ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLVBSW

SEAFOOD CHERHANAUA ANCORA Cherhana in Romanian means ‘fishery’, so you will already know what to expect here: fine fish and seafood. The interior is rather special: bright and contemporary, with more than a hint of local flavour. In a city now boasting more than a few seriously good interiors, this is up with the best of them. The food is very good too, from simple facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes ( hamsii , carp and pike) to more exotic fish shipped in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea bass, prawns, fresh tuna and much more. We should add that there are some fine meat choices for those who are not fish fans. Desserts as good as everything else. Prices high.QB-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 0721 33 55 55/(+4) 55/(+4) 0724 33 22 33, w ww.ancora ww.ancora-cherhana.ro.. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PLSW cherhana.ro

FISHBONE Another fish restaurant more than worth the name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good lunchtime deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make your time here memorable.QC-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu 2, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, ww w. fishbonegrill.ro. fishbonegri ll.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. PESW

MESOGIOS A businessman’s dream. While Mesogios certainly doesn’t get any cheaper, the high standards here have ensured that it remains packed with happy punters. Getting on for a decade since it opened its dedication to seafood has not waned for one moment, and we never leave disappointed (and we come here as often as our wallet allows). Join us and enjoy squid, lobster, prawns of all sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea bass and a host of other wet treats.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021 313 49 51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39/(+4) 021 317 13 55, www. mesogios.ro. Open 12:30 - 24:00. €€€€. PSW

RAIONUL DE PESTE Inside Piata Dorobanti (Dorobanti Market) you will find Raionul de Peste, which translates as Fish Counter . And that’s exactly what this place is: a fish counter serving fresh fish which someone will cook for you on the spot. You can then sit and eat it at the b ar. It’s a brilliant, simple concept widely found in other capital cities but a new one for Bucharest: we hope they do really well.  There’s wine by the glass if you fancy a drink and prices are good. Closes at 21:00 (with the market) so get there early. QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 3-6, tel. (+4) 031 436 70 42/(+4) 0756 05 80 12. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. €€. GSW  April - May 2015

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Restaurants PIATA OBOR

Bucharest’s biggest market has Bucharest’s changed beyond recognition since Bucharest In Your Pocket first visited in 1999, but if you look hard enough you can still find much of its old charm Bucharest In Your Pocket’s first visit to the huge Bucharest market at Obor would have been some time early in the spring of 1999, just as we were preparing our first guide. We were looking for one of those little metal devices you shoved into your television cable in order to get free HBO. In those days that’s the kind of place Obor was: a byword for dodgy deals. The old market hall where you bought your meat was accompanied by an open-sided building where costermongers sold fruit and vegetables, while the surrounding area was a kind of shanty-town where traders sold just about everything, and where you didn’t ask any questions about where the goods came from. Obor has been a market since at least the 18th century, when it was known as the Piata Targului de Afara , a place for traders from outside of Bucharest to do business; the name Obor came into use during the early part of the 19th century. During this period Obor was infamous as the location of Bucharest’s gallows: public executions would take place on market days to ensure a good crowd.  The practice was halted in 1823, but the gallows itself remained in place until 1870. In 1877, market traders raised a stone cross on the site of the gallows to commemorate those killed here. The cross, despite being declared a protected monument in 2004, was nevertheless moved in 2009 during the renovation of the market. It today stands in front of the Sector 2 Town Hall, a hundred metres or so to the right of the market itself. It has been re-dedicated as a monument to Romanian independence, and its original purpose played down. Indeed, when the Sector 2 council published published a history of the Obor area in its newspaper Foisorul de Foc  in  in 2012, no mention of the gallows was made. Obor’s main market hall – an elegant, linear and modernist building known as Halele Obor  –   – was built in the 1940s. Its architects, Horia Creanga and Haralamb Georgescu, also designed the Patria  Cinema block on Bulevardul Magheru, as well as the splendid art deco Aro Palace hotel in Brasov. Much as it has been since it opened, the interior of Halele Obor is today mainly given over to fresh produce, primarily meat. Prices are decent if not cheap, and judging from what we saw as we walked around, quality is high. We also found a few things we don’t usually see 28  Bucharest In Your Pocket

in our average butcher’s or supermarket (we saw lamb’s liver on sale, for example). There are also a number of stalls selling all sorts of crap cra p from Lenin caps and fur hats to cheap children’s toys. There are also – mainly upstairs upsta irs – a few wonderful reminders of the past, not least the shoemender’s shop. When it comes to eating at Obor, the only food permitted are mici : you will find them at the far left-hand entrance/exit to the main market hall ( just follow the smell).  Though more than a few locals will tell you to mind the mici   at Obor, we have been eating them for years, and – still served on a bit of card with mustard and bread (which costs extra) – they remain amongst Bucharest’s best. We have never had any problems with them. Mici  and   and the old market hall aside, today’s Obor is a hugely different place however to the shanty town we first visited in 1999. For starters, it looks different: in 2009 the old open-sided fruit and vegetable market was abandoned and the impromptu stalls removed: replaced by a new, shiny, purpose-built mall.

 If your idea of Romania is old women selling onions on street corners, Obor is where to come  The fruit and vegetable sellers are now inside this new building, on the ground floor, although a few who can’t afford the price of a pitch hang around outside selling their produce. You will also still come across at least a handful of rogues. On our visit in January we were offered two smartphones, saw a ton of clearly fake Lego on sale, counterfeit Violeta dolls and gallons of moonshine. No, Obor is not as chaotic as it once was, but scrape the surface just a tiny bit and you can still find the old roguish place we grew to love. So while we are happy to admit that Obor was almost certainly a lot more fun in the old days, before it got a facelift, and before the new hala was built, it nevertheless remains one of those quintessential Bucharest experiences which really ought to be part of any visit to the city. If your idea of Romania is old women selling onions on street corners, Obor is where to come. bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants TAVERNA PESCAREASCA LA ZAVAT  Top little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are local Romanian and international favourites too. An exemplary wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard fans: all of Romania’s top wineries are represented.QE-5, Str. Popa Nan 16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56/(+4) 0766 52 67 91, www. taverna-lazavat.ro. taverna-lazavat .ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. € €€. PSW

SPANISH ALIOLI TAPAS Order yourself a San Miguel  or   or a pitcher of Sangria and stick your feet up. Great tapas and cocktail bar, frequented by nice people who all come ready to chat.  Top food choices include the mussels, the paella, pae lla, the osso bucco and the gambas al ajillo. Of the desserts, the sabañón de almendras was the best. It’s all good though, and excellent value, not least the lunchtime set menu. Nice place too.QB-5, Str. Popa Tatu 4, tel. (+4) 021 311 80 27/ (+4) 0721 38 49 83, www.alioli.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. PLESW

PATA PA TA NEGRA NEGR A COPAS Y TAPAS The moment you walk in and see the huge Spanish hams hanging above the bar you will know that you have come to the right place. There have been a few attempts at creating a genuine Spanish tapas bar in Bucharest over the years: this is perhaps the first to truly get it right. Those in the know can order a range of tapas from the menu, while beginners can just ask the great staff select a few for you. Everything is authentic: it is all imported from Spain, and the icing on the cake is the paella, made exactly as it should be with all the right ingredients. Add in top Spanish wines and you have every reason to go there right now.QB-5, Str. Crisana 21, tel. (+4) (+4) 0734 34 90 76, 76, ww www.patanegra. w.patanegra.ro. ro. Open 12:00 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PBW

STEAK HOUSES JW STEAKHOUSE BUCHAREST  The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharest’s best chophouses: the  JW Steakhouse , only the second such signature venue to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse experience, right down to the Black Angus beef imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines, and they open early for breakfast: the American pancakes and eggs Benedict are a great option to start the day with. Note that  JW is closed Saturday lunchtime, and for dinner Sunday evening.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), M Izvor/Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 18:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 210 lei/pers, children between six and twelve half price, children under six free. €€€€. PLESW facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

OSHO Sometimes when writing a review, all you really want to write is ‘this place is brilliant.’ This is a butcher’s shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on the menu though, such as a top burger (which comes in three sizes), tangy lamb chops and an outstanding selection of fresh fish. Plus, there’s a kid’s menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than reasonable considering you get the best of the best. Packed at lunchtime.QB-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, M Aviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31/(+4) 021 568 30 32, www.oshorestaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PTVSW

ROYAL STEAK  For once, a place claiming to be something unique in Romania actually delivers: this is certainly a first as far as our experience goes. The meat and seafood here (and it is all of the finest quality, shipped in from Argentina and around the world) is cooked on hot stones, which are brought to your table (with three magnificent sauces) so that you can cook it as much (or as little) as you like. If you don’t fancy doing it yourself the staff are on hand to help out. The place itself is classy: smart without wi thout overdoing it, and is perfect for a treat. Note that you can also buy steaks here to cook at home.QC-4, Piata Romana 8, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0751 18 21 21 10, ww www.royalsteak.ro. w.royalsteak.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PALBSW  April - May 2015

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Restaurants PRICE GUIDE Each of the restaurants featured in this edition of Bucharest In Your Pocket  includes  includes a rough guide as to how much you should approximately  expect  expect to pay for a three-course meal, with a decent local wine (if applicable):

€ €€ €€€ €€€€

- Under €10 per person - €10-20 €10-20 per person perso n - €20-30 per person - Over €30 per person

VACAMUUU One of the most talked-about chophouse in the city. Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kid’s menu, and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home and cook yourself should you wish, and then there’s the wine list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when you come here.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35 11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€€€.

PTSW

 VEGAN BARCA Vegan and raw vegan food like you’ve never tasted. So good in fact that even the most fervent meat eaters will leave happy. There is a wide range of so ups (the coconut soup being our favourite) as well as pasta and sal ad. Of the main meals the lentil risotto with avocado was fabulous, and the desserts are an inventive treat. Barca will deliver - to home or office - and many of the ingredients can be bought should you wish to try cooking some of this stuff at home. Closes early. earl y.QB-3, Str. Emanoil Porumbaru 9, M Aviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0720 92 82 78/(+4) 0747 59 47 18, www.restaurantbarca.ro. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. €€. PVSW

THAI

LOVEGAN

KUNNAI

Vegan and raw-vegan food cooked (or prepared!) with  just a little extr extraa care c are than usual, at prices which are also a tad higher than usual. We think the extra is well worth it, however: the food here is as tasty and inventive as it gets, from the simple yet delicious risotto with asparagus to the more complex kokopelli: quinoa with sauteed vegetables and a surprisingly hot sauce. The menu of the day is always good value, and note that they deliver (although there is a small charge). Closes at 8pm, so get here well in time. But do get here: it’s as un- Bucharest as they come. A real treat. QB-4, B-dul Lascăr Catargiu 1, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0742 12 11 03/(+4) 021 367 23 66, www.lovegan. ro. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. €€.

At last, a place for those of us who have been craving something authentically Thai since Moods closed a while ago now. This place is terrific, found on the ground floor of a new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest. The food is the real deal, of which the food will convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waan fish stir-fry followed by the prawn  Phad Thai : both were sensational and well worth the money (it’s good value if not exactly cheap). Get there now.QStr. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4) 0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai. ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 23:00. €€€€.

PTLSW

URBAN CONTEMPORARY RESTAURANT MADAME POGANY Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off in Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This is a great restaurant.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.ro. Open 09:00 - 00:30, 00: 30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. €€€. PLSW 30  Bucharest In Your Pocket

PAVSW

 VEGETARIAN  VEGET ARIAN CASA SATYA Where do you start when reviewing a place like this? The concept is  Ayurveda, as in the pseudo-scientific system of natural healing. Food wise, that means everything here is meat free, and made with only organic ingredients. That does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys served with wit h the poppadoms will convince you of that right from the off. The toilets by the way are amazing, and as you might expect, it is totally non-smoking.QA-3, B-dul Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0736 39 25 87, www.satya.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PVGBSW bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SLOW FOOD BECA’S KITCHEN Following much the same path as that trodden by Violeta’s Vintage Kitchen, this restaurant is a magnificent place serving wonderful, home-cooked food. The place itself is gorgeously simple in its decor, at once homely and welcoming. The food is fantastic, with the menu changing more or less every day: check the blackboard for today’s specials. You can also buy homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific.QC-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0722 30 89 60, www.becaskitchen.ro. Open 18:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 12:00 - 22:00. 22:0 0. Closed Mon. €€. PGSW

METUKA Slow Food  in  in every sense of the phrase: the food is seasonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locally-sourced ingredients. It also comes at a fair price: both to you and to the suppliers. The menu changes every day, but there is always a good choice for either lunch or dinner (soups, finger food and more substantial dishes), as well as some terrific desserts.QB-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0734 16 57 46/(+4) 0740 05 55 49, www.metuka.ro. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€. PVSW

THE LONDON STREET BISTRO What you have here is outstanding homemade food served with a smile in a splendid setting. The wonderfully inventive menu (which changes often) is packed with tasty treats (Stilton pate is one, while at this time of year the shepherd’s pie is an absolute must) and nothing costs as much as it really ought to. This is fine food at half the price of elsewhere. The cook and owner is usually around to add a personal tip or two, or hand out something new she has just come up with in the kitchen.  There is an amazing wine list (and wine tasting evenings), there are a few English beers, a Romanian craft beer and you can enjoy it all on a lovely terrace.QC-3, Str. Putul Lui Zamfir 15, tel. (+4) 0736 93 35 31, www. thelondonstreetatelier.com. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€€. PVGBW

VIOLETA’S VIOLETA ’S BISTRO B ISTRO The concept is great: very good traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is always up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before setting off. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. The T he brunch from 11:00-1 1:00-16:00 6:00 on SaturS aturdays is excellent value at 80 lei per person: kids under seven are free. The place itself (now in a new location) is lovely, the staff wonderful and as a whole it is just so un-Bucharest that you will want to squeeze it and hug it.QD-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel. (+4) 0722 52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PGBSW facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Cafés

BLACK EYE COFFEE Bright little cafe packed with comfy armchairs close to Cismigiu Park, serving a decent range of well-priced coffee, including an outstanding Jamaica Blue Mountain. You can also try out various coffee brewing methods, from an aeropress to a syphon. Oh, and the place is wholly non-smoking, worthy of commendation.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 59, tel. (+4) 0768 93 66 40, www. blackeyecoffee.ro. blackeyecoff ee.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00. PGSW

NEW BOHEMIA TEA HOUSE We rarely use the word cool, but few others do justice just ice to this rather unqiue tea house. Colourful and not a little bizarre, the loft here - packed with cushions and soft furnishings just right for crashing on - is a great place to spend an afternoon. As the weather warms up, the shady courtyard is a welcome retreat from the heat. Serves a massive range of exotic tea, and it’s non-smoking.QB-5, Str. Poiana Narciselor 1, tel. (+4) 0727 33 36 31, www. bohemiatea.ro.. Open 12 bohemiatea.ro 12:00 :00 - 23:00. PGW

CAFE & GRADINA VERONA Sublime. At the brilliant Carturesti bookshop is this delightful place serving coffee, teas, cocktails, beer and a vast range of fabulous lemonade.  There is also good food, both from f rom an a la carte  menu as well as a terrific value set lunch. They have one of the best selection of vegan dishes in the city (including delicious vegetable noodles, a good korma and decent humus). Service is always great from the top staff, and there is often a cultural event happening (including occasional live music). 32  Bucharest In Your Pocket

Given how popular the place is (particularly the amazing garden/courtyard in warmer weather) we suggest making a reservation if you want a table.QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60. Open 09:00 - 24:00. PESW

CAFE TIMES Free speedy Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a cando attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and need their coffee double quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how busy you are.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, M Piata Muncii, tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Open 07:30 24:00. PLESW

CAMERA DIN FATA  The name means ‘Front room’, and being here is in many ways just like being somebody’s front room. Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso on its way to work. There’s wine, and cocktails, too, and many people will insist the place is even better in the evening, not least because it’s fully non-smoking. You will Mende leev 22, tel. (+4) 021 need a reservation.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

PGSW bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Cafés NEW THE COFFEE FACTORY Such a good place we considered leaving it out of the guide so that we could have it all to ourselves! Non-smoking, this place offers some very exotic coffee (how about a sweet and aromatic Guatemala Acatenango, or a Masala spiced brew?) as well as rather excellent (and growing) selection of some ver y good wine.  There are also a lso croissants, croissant s, brownies, biscuits and quiche if your a bit peckish. It’s great.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 54, tel. (+4) 0766 28 24 70, www.thecoffeefactory.ro. Open 09:00 - 23:00. PGSW

NEW FRUDISIAC Minimalist yet strikingly designed, this is a cafe,  juice bar and breakfast/brun  juice breakfast/brunch ch venue all in one. Exceedin Exceedingly gly laid back, it serves the best hot chocolate in town alongside a wide range of juices, smoothies and some excellent light meals, it has become an instant hit with those people lucky enough to get a seat. Fortunately, good weather heralds the opening of the courtyard, which will see the capacity treble. A little piece of Sweden in the middle of Dorobanti.QB-3, Str. Intrarea Bitolia 4, tel. (+4) 021 231 04 11/(+4) 0730 64 19 43. Open 08:00 - 19:00. PGW

LENTE & CAFEA While best-loved as a summer venue (the large garden/ courtyard is delightful) the interior of this place should not be overlooked either. eith er. The food is excellent, a cut above the Bucharest average. The salads are big and tasty and there is a surprisingly good range of beef dishes, although best of all we liked the gulas soup.QD-5, Str. Arcului 2, tel. (+4) 021 210 210 96 96, www.lente.ro. w ww.lente.ro. Open Op en 11:30 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. PVGSW

M60  Elegant, contemporary cafe in an enviable city centre location. Eclectically furnished, parts of it feel like an office, parts of it feel like your living room and other bits resemble an upmarket diner: there is something for everyone. Coffee (their own blend), a craft craf t beer and wine by the glass, alongside light meals and desserts. All very nice, all very chic and all very popular: at weekends the place is full. Worth your time.QC-5, Str. Mendeleev 2, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 00 10, m60cafe.tumblr.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PGW

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ORIGO This place isis all about great great coffee coffee from all all over over the world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to make at home, and the design d esign of the place is not too shabby either: the coffee cups cu ps hanging down over the bar are a nice touch. There’s relaxing music, cocktails and - here comes the big news - inside it is totally non-smoking.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGSW

READERS CAFE  This place is one of the great things about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers on the ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would expect. The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta light.QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, M Stefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www.readerscafe. ro. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

PLESW

SUBSOL BAR Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the 1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly - to Romania’s architectural association. The cafe (and bar) which occupies part of the building is more than worthy of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated with scenes from the revolution.QC-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5, M Universitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.ro. www.subsolbar .ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PSW

TUCANO COFFEE Currently Bucharest’s most talkedabout cafe, not least for the fact that it serves amazing cheesecake and its freshly roasted speciality Arabica coffee. This is much more than a simple cafe however: it puts on all sorts events, both for kids k ids at the weekends and for us grown ups in the evenings. It hosts yard sales, book clubs, workshops, music evenings and film nights. Bohemian and non-conformist it is Bucharest at its best. Oh, and we should add that it is non-smoking. Hurrah!QC-4, Calea Dorobantilor 18, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0761 37 66 26, www.tucanocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PEGBSW

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Nightlife BARS: COCKTAILS & QUIRKY BAR A1 A little bit of everything in a very nice package. Food (including breakfast), drink (the milkshakes are fab, there is a range of rather unusual beers, while the wine selection is better than your average wine bar) and cakes that would shame most bakeries. The place itself is delightfully chic in that slightly shabby way, and the crowd that meets here is equally relaxed. You will love the place. QB-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 12 48 47. Open 8:00 - 00:30. NS

LUDIC Quirky little bar close to the Old Town which while not being on the beaten track is a highly popular venue indeed. Serving beer, cocktails and coffee there is a nice sunny terrace out back, but the big draw here are the board games: tens of them, everything from Scrabble to Cluedo.QC-5, Str. Coltei 50, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 031 438 01 79. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PW

BARS: UPMARKET ENGLISH BAR One of our regular haunts. This little corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around for nearly a century, as long as the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint of Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also regularly hosts sophisticated parties, and on some Thursday nights this little bar becomes the most happening venue in town, a favourite of Bucharest’s fashionistas. Essential, get here now.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PLW

INTERMEZZO PIANO BAR Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter , which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now it’s merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in

Bucharest to spend time.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW

PAVILION PA VILION LOUNGE  The JW Marriott’s newest addition is a suitably stylish and contemporary venue boasting one of the most elegant bars in the city. There are various seating areas, from the stools at the bar to comfy sofas and armchairs. Throw in a top cocktail list and great staff and it all means that the city’s other business bars have some real competition at last. Top stuff.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 04, www.jwmarriottbucharest. com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW

WINE BAR THE WINE BISTRO BY VINEXPERT Vinexpert has been the leading Romanian wine dealer for years, it s shops stocking a range of both local and imported wine from around the world. Since the end of January its outlet s have been joined by this wine bar/bistro at the top end of historic Calea Victoriei, where you can sample a vast range of wine (by the glass if you wish). Super-knowledgeable staff will guide you around their vast selection - do not be afraid to ask for help.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 155, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0744 48 13 07/(+4) 031 405 19 19, www. vinexpert.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PW

PUBS ENERGIEA We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows make it a good choice day and night, the original (we think?) tiled floor looks great and there are a number of different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic look of the main bar, good for get togethers with larger groups. Best of all though we like the raised interior balcony, which is top cocktail-sipping territory. Most nights you will need a reservation.QB-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.

PLBSW 34  Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Nightlife OPERA & BALLET LISTINGS  All performanc performances es take take place place at the the Romanian Romanian National Opera. See foot of the page for details.

April Opera 15, 16

19:00

RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE VERDI RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE

18

19:00

TOSCA GIACOMO PUCCINI

19

11:00

PUSS IN BOOTS CHILDREN’S OPERA

19

19:00

DON GIOVANNI WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART

30

11:00

HANSEL & GRETEL CHILDREN’S OPERA

Ballet & Contemporary Dance 25, 26, 29

19:00

TRIPTIC DE BALET PROKOFIEV, MOZART, LISZT

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19:00

TANGO, RADIO & JULIET EDWARD CLUG

2, 16

11:00

HANSEL & GRETEL CHILDREN’S OPERA

2, 7, 17

19:00

L’ELISIR D’ D’AMORE AMORE GAETONO DONIZETTI

9

19:00

THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART

14, 15

19:00

FALSTAFF GIUSEPPE VERDI

23, 24, 30, 31

19:00

MANON LESCAUT GIACOMO PUCCINI

May Opera

Ballet & Contemporary Dance 3, 10, 11, 16

19:00

TRIPTIC DE BALET PROKOFIEV, MOZART, LISZT

6

19:00

FEMEI GHEORGHE IANCU FEMEI GHEORGHE

8, 28

19:00

TANGO, RADIO & JULIET EDWARD CLUG

ROMANIAN NATIONAL OPERA Bucharest’s elegant opera house was built in the early 1950s. You can book seats online, and print off your own tickets.QA-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.operanb.ro. Box office open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00.

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Nightlife PRIMUS Big pub that goes a long way towards convincing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to find a decent drinker in Bucharest. From the very good attempt at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness and Kilkenny  you  you can add their own ow n beer, Primus, a decenttasting bargain. The huge windows make it feel much like a street cafe. Service is good too, and we love the retrostyle black and white tiled floor.QB-5, Str. George Enescu 3, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www. primuspub.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PW

LIVE MUSIC LISTINGS

SHIFT It’s doubtful that you’ve seen anything like this

Floyd @ Hard Rock Cafe 24 April - Speak Floyd @

place in Bucharest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/ bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has been packed since opening day with the hippest and coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smartest chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about everybody else) love it.QC-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021 211 22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Open 12:00 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PW

Project @ Fabrica 25 April - Negative Core Project @

Mahala @ Club 52 16 April - White Mahala @ Sivu @ 16 April - Sivu  @ Colectiv Consul @ Hard Rock Cafe 16 April - Pro Consul @ 17 April - Romanian Rock Legends @ Sala Palatul Palatului ui 17 April - Vama @ Beraria H 21 April - Behemoth @ Colectiv Grimus @ 23 April - Grimus  @ Hard Rock Cafe

25 April - Trooper @ Arenele Romane Twins @ Hard Rock Cafe 25 April - Ovi & The Twins @ Wovenhand @ 26 April - Wovenhand  @ Silver Church Skeletonwitch @ 6 May - Skeletonwitch  @ Colectiv Lillies  @ Control 6 & 7 May - The Tiger Lillies @ 7 May - Compact @ Hard Rock Cafe

WHITE HORSE  The White Horse  has been around so long it should probably consider going out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in surprisingly good shape, and packed with both locals of the ‘ordinary people’ variety, as well as group of rowdy expats. There is still good food in the more formal part upstairs, with bar snacks served ser ved down. We have always loved the square bar. QB-3, Str. George Călinescu 4A, tel. (+4) 021 231 27 95, www.whitehorse.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PSW

10 May - Ane Brun @ Sala Palatului 11 May - Ray Wilson @ Sala Palatului 13 May - Yngwie Malmsteen @ Sala Palatului 17 May - Roxette @ Arenele Romane 20 May - Julio Iglesias @ Sala Palatului 21 May - Francesca Belmonte @ Control 27 May - Pablo Alboran @ Sala Palatului 28 May - Black @ Sala Palatului

IRISH PUBS DUBLINER Legendar y boozer in the sense that it was the first real pub Legendary to open in Bucharest (back in 1995). Unchanged in years the Dubliner remains a favourite of many old school expats, although the location makes it a bit of a trek for Old  Town or city cit y centre-based centre- based visitors. Ser ves a good chicken pie and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and offers a wide range of sports courtesy of Sky TV .QA-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 18, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 260 26 78. Open 09:00 - 01:00, 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00. PBSW

28 May - Directia 5 @ Hard Rock Cafe For full venue details visit inyourpocket.com. inyourpocket.com. Besides the gigs listed here look out too for regular live Mojo in music at Mojo  in the Old Town (p.60) which hosts top A (p.60) is local bands alongside its resident band. Club A (p.60) another decent bet for live music, while outside of the Cafe (p.18) and Control Control (p.37) Old Town Hard Rock Cafe (p.18)  (p.37) are Kulturhaus (p.39) known for their range of live music. Kulturhaus  (p.39) similarly has live bands on most evenings.

JAZZ CLUB GREEN HOURS JAZZ CAFÉ  There is live jazz here alongside other art artyy stuff - including theatre, comedy, book launches and the like - most evenings. Popular with a crowd that encompasses all ages, it’s definitely a place you should visit once before leaving Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85/(+4) 021 313 86 06, www.greenhours.ro. Check the venue’s website for concert details. PENBW 36  Bucharest In Your Pocket

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife THE HARP IRISH PUB & RESTA RES TAURANT URANT The Harp is back, and is better than ever before. In fact, if you haven’t been here for a while you might hardly recognise the place. Set over two levels, with t wo great bars, the Guinness is as exemplary as ever, e ver, and the food is fabulous, a cut above your usual pub grub and bordering on the outstanding. The enormous burger they have started serving here might be a contender for the city’s biggest. There is live music some nights, and be warned: as big as this place is it has become rather popular again. If you want a table (especially at the weekend) make a reservation.QC6, Str. Bibescu Voda 1, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 55 44 55, offi[email protected], offi[email protected], www.theharp.ro. www.theharp.ro. Open 08:30 - 02:00. PESW

BEERHALLS BERARIA H A former exhibition hall (one of many in Herastrau; this one was known as Pavilion H ) has been converted into what the owners claim is the largest beerhall in eastern Europe. Having seen the size of the place we are inclined to agree. There are various var ious areas in which you can enjoy your beer, but it’s all a little lit tle too big: even so, if there is a popular band on (there is lots of live music here at weekends) you may have to queue to get in. The selection of draught beer was a tad disappointing, although it does come at a decent price. There is a decent range of food though, surprisingly so.QA-1, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0725 34 53 45, www. berariah.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PESW

PANTELIMON ART TOWER PANTELIMON ART TOWER �MAKE A POINT� A climb to the top of the staircase which wraps itself around the 37-metre high Pantelimon Art Tower  offers a genuinely unique look at Bucharest. Built in the 1960s the water tower is still functional (it cools water for the Postavaria textile plant) while Make a Point  (the  (the organisation behind the Art Tower  project)  project) make use of the interior for exhibitions and installations. Windows have been added and as you make your way up the stairs you can look inside and see the work on display (which is often hung from the rafters). The real joy of the tower however is the perspective of Bucharest you get from the viewing platform at the top. For what you see from up here is far more representative of this city than what you will see from any of the tall buildings closer to the city centre. The blocks, the factories, the traffic: these are what an eastern European city like Bucharest is all about. Blocks in which people sleep, before travelling on the busy roads to their places of work in the factories. To get to the tower, take bus No. 104 from Piata Unirii. It’s a long ride, which takes in some of the less picturesque parts of Bucharest: if you have been paying attention, however, you will realise that’s kind of the point... QSos. Morarilor 1, tel. (+4) 0723 75 32 00, www.makeapoint.ro. The tower is open on request. Call (+4) 0723 753 200 to arrange a visit (English spoken). Admission free.

BERARIE GAMBRINUS One of the most celebrated and historic pubs in Bucharest - haunt, for decades, of Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser returns, this time as something of a Heineken -pub. There is Romanian beer on tap though, Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc , available by the metre if that’s what you fancy. There’s some good pub grub too, not least the sausages which were terrific. Prices more than reasonable and there’s even a non-smoking section.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, www. berariegambrinus.ro. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PSW

LIVE MUSIC CLUBS CONTROL CLUB Still tops our list of ‘clubs for people who do not like clubs.’ It is a brilliant place where there is always something going on, be it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharest’s better live acts. Note also that it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much as a club, and when the weather is good enough it has a smart terrace. Food upstairs at  Alt Shift . Fantastic.QC-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. Open 13:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW

OLDIES BAR & CLUB  This centrally-locate centrally-located d cafe, bar and live music club is the kind of place that grown ups who still have plenty of party left in them (like us) are going to love. Open from early for coffee, as it gets dark it turns into facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Nightlife a club, with karaoke on Wednesday and Thursday alongside stand-up comedy. Friday and Saturday there are usually good local acts performing live. We are also told that in the not too distant future there will be a mellow piano bar feel to the place on Sunday and Monday. There aren’t many clubs in this city we are happy to send people: this, however, is one. Recommended.QC-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 16, tel. (+4) 0728 21 96 01, www.oldiesclub.ro. Open 09:00 - 02:30. PJEW

TRIBUTE Besides a fantastic resident band, Tribute is also regularly host to a number of the best live acts in the business, who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd and wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement of live music is what you are looking look ing for, this is one first class venue. Bang in the city centre (it’s on Calea Victoriei) it’s a great choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking about V icwhere to move on to. Plan on staying late.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 0728 74 28 83, www.tribute.ro. Open 22:00 - 06:00, 0 6:00, Closed Mon Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW

STUDENT & UNDERGROUND DEJA�VU A place that goes from strength to strength. Still the best cocktail cock tail bar this side of the River Prut, it is now open during the day for food too: to o: you could spend your whole life in here. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails, some of which involve fire, and a few which involve wearing a World War II Russian army helmet. They also serve at least one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her teeth. At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is the sweatiest place in Bucharest. You will love it.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, M Universitate, tel. te l. (+4) 021 311 311 23 22/(+4) 22 /(+4) 0721 91 82 79, www. ww w. dejavu-club.ro. Open 17:00 17:00 - 04:00. PENW

EXPIRAT & OTHERSIDE CLUB A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucharest’s most eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide ( Expirat’s Expirat’s club within a club), chances are there is bound to be something going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco sometimes thrown in for good measure. (Check the venue’s Facebook page to

ROMANIAN BEER Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer, and while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania, which is far from being a sorry one. With With large amounts of investment from big foreign brewers the country’s best known beers have been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number of cases new brews launched: the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers is one such example. Fortunately for the visitor, improvements in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. We We have long suggested that the country’s marketing people use the fact in their international campaigns.  The best know  The known n local local brand brandss of beer beer are proba probabl blyy Ursus, Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the 1870s, and if you ask locals what the national beer is, most will respond Ursus. Both Ursus  and Timisoreana  (brewed since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller , which also proAzuga and Stejar Stejar.. Ciuc  duces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Silva)) is owned by Heineken Heineken,, while Carlsberg’s (along with Silva Tuborg is locally brewed Tuborg  is also ubiquitous and popular. OthBergenbier.. er notable beers include Interbrew’s Bergenbier Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular in Romania, the best probably being Ciuc’s, though you should also keep a look out for Paulaner’s white beer, found on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs. Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black , a very different beer to most local brews. Silva’s Strong Dark  is similar and equally good. A few venues in Bucharest have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere: Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest, Re:Public   and Biutiful   are four such places. There aren’t aren’t that many craft beers in Romania, but there are a few if you know where to look. If you Zaguna is get the chance, Zaguna  is excellent: the London Street Bistro (see page 34) always has it in stock. Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble finding the major international brands: Heineken, Carlsberg, Peroni , Leffe, Hoegaarden  and Stella Artois  are all popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff, no beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent) of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often Guinness.. Found all even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians) it is also relatively expensive. Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba (draught) and la sticla (bottled). In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.

38  Bucharest In Your Pocket

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

see what’s on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars meaning that you never have to wait too long to get served. Top notch.QB-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4, M Piata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28, www.expirat.org. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The OtherSide). PEW

KULTURHAUS Recently renovated and redesigned, this remains the student favourite. Attracts a nakedly noncommercial crowd on two levels by offering hard rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty

SMOKING If you’ve been in Romania for more than five minutes you would have already noticed that the good people of this country seriously like their fags, and will in general light up anywhere and everywhere with little thought given to the health of others. In some venues, notably pubs and clubs, you could indeed be forgiven for thinking that smoking is compulsory, or that prizes were being given out for the most tabs smoked in an evening. As such, be warned: if you go out in Bucharest - even just for a meal - you will almost certainly come home at the end of the evening reeking of tobacco from head to foot. There are some exceptions to this rule: a handful of cafes and restaurants do not allow smoking at all, and we have marked all of these with a non-smoking symbol: G. By and large though, expect smokers to rule the roost wherever you are in the city. Given that Bucharest’s stray dog problem now appears to have been put down (see page 12, and forgive the pun), it is the offensive levels of smoke in the vast ma jority of the city’s venues that is increasingly increasingly becoming becoming the Romanian capital’s biggest image problem. Now, in the interests of objectivity we should probably point out of course that if you happen to like a puff or two yourself, then you are in luck: Bucharest is basically a smoker’s Disneyland. Not only can you smoke  just about anywhere, but cigarettes remain incredibly cheap in Romania: around 15 lei for a pack of 20 (that’s less than £3). Fill your boots. Or lungs. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ). Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other events and refreshingly says ‘NO’ to table service: yes, you will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We are fans.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, M Piata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLEW

UPMARKET CLUBS BOA �BEAT OF ANGELS� From the outside a fairly nondescript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but once in, wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with great music courtesy of two top local The glorious art deco Union building, on Str. Ion Campineanu (C-5).

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Nightlife Which venue is closest? Go to: m.inyourpocket.com resident DJs. There is plenty of space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and even the toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week. Oh, and wear sunglasses, everybody else seems to!QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub. ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.

PLEBW

CLUB BAMBOO Super fitze club where only the best looking and the best dressed stand any chance of getting in. If you can blag your way past the staff you will enter a world where poverty is a dirty word: only the richest Romanians come here, and their dress sense is as good or bad as you can imagine depending on your taste. t aste. Music is clubby, friendly house, loud enough to dance to but mellow enough to permit conversation. Always has loads of PAs from decent acts as well of plenty of live entertainment from a touch of cabaret to seriously underdressed ladies dancing on the stage. Dom Perignon Blanc  3200  3200 lei a bottle.QD-2, Str. Tuzla 50, tel. (+4) 0726 22 62 66/(+4) 0723 22 62 66, www. bambooclub.ro. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLW

FRATELLI  Top notch. One of Bucharest Bucharest’s ’s uber -clubs, -clubs, where the richest and best looking people in the city come to see and be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people who run this place consider the music to be as important as anything else: something not every club in this town can boast. Not cheap (kind of the point) if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a table (which requires you buy a bottle of spirits) then you can still have a reasonably priced night

out here. Brilliant.QD-2, Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.fratel ww w.fratelli.ro. li.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PL

PLAYER CLUB  The concept at super-club Player  this   this year is subtly different to last year, and the place has been given a thorough makeover to keep it sparkling and at the cutting edge of the Bucharest nightlife scene: honestly, if it’s top people and top sounds you want in an exclusive setting then this should be your first stop in the city. Boasts the sexiest dancers, the best DJs - often as many as four top names in one night - and is guaranteed to leave you bleary-eyed the next nex t morning and wanting more. We should also point out that the attitude is a bit more relaxed here than that at some of the other uber-clubs: just how we like it. Get in.QA-2, Str. Primo Nebiolo 1, Piata Montreal, tel. (+4) 0720 73 47 34/(+4) 0737 73 73 34, www.theplayer. ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun.

PLBCW

 VICE ADVICE For visitors to Bucharest looking for a little debauchery, there are three options, of which only one is legal. The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is erotic massage at massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will not be offered sex at these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from happy ending massages to full body massage from one, two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around €35 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious establishments. The second option is option is to simply head for a brothel. These establishments advertise themselves as legitimate strip or nightclubs, but act mainly as fronts for brothels. After sitting yourself down at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before being joined by some young ladies who will try to convince you to buy them ‘cocktails’ (usually orange juice with an umbrella, costing a fortune). After half an hour of bored conversation you may be asked if you would like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually a room above, or even in, the nightclub itself. Expect to pay a minimum of €100 for the privilege, as well buy an obligatory bottle of sparkling spark ling wine, which usually costs at least another €50. All this on top of your already huge tab. t ab. We We suggest avoiding anywhere calling itself a ‘nightclub’ and promising ‘girls.’ Be particularly circumspect in and around the Old Town. The third option is option is to call one of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality city guides found around town. This is completely illegal and you really ought to think twice before picking up the phone.

40  Bucharest In Your Pocket

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

ESSENTIAL BUCHAREST  The first first port of call for for any visitor visitor to to Bucharest Bucharest these these days is is usually the Historic Centre, or Old Town. The Peasant and Village Museums should not be missed, and while still the most famous building in the city, Casa Poporului/Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for many people. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at the National Art Museum, while last but not least half a day at the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary, artistic, political and architectural history.

CASA POPORULUI �PARLIAMENT PALACE; PAL� ATUL PARLAME PARLAMENTULUI� NTULUI� Palatul Parlamentului (known universally as Casa Poporului ) was built during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed (by a young architect, Anca Petrescu, who was  just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament, as well as Romania’s Museum of Contemporary Art .  The public public tour of the the building building is thoroughly recommend recommended ed (it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the commentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling off superlative statistics. You’ll see plenty of grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on the roof, which offers perhaps the defining view of central Bucharest. You can now even take a trip into the bowels of the building down below, though again this costs extra. To  join one of the tours you will need to bring your passport. Use the entrance on the left-hand side of the palace (if you’re looking at it front-on). Izvor  is   is the nearest metro station. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, M Izvor, tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00 (last tour 15:30). Admission 25-45 lei adults, 13-23 lei students. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cameras, either still or video.

GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM �MUZEUL NATION� AL GEORGE ENESCU� Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescu’s former home, this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescu’s death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romafacebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

nia’s most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the story of Romanian music in general. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 141, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www. georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of each month.

GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HIS� TORY �MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURALĂ GRIGORE ANTIPA� One of Romania’s finest museums, and one of the best natural history museums in Europe. Packed with terrific exhibits which will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania.  The building building which which houses houses itit all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum for almost five decades until his death in 1944. QB-3, Şos. Kiseleff 1, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www. antipa.ro. Open 10:00 10:00-2 -20:00. 0:00. Closed Mon. Admiss Admission ion 20 lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.

NATIONAL ART MUSEUM �MNAR; MUZEUL NA� TIONAL DE ARTA�  The country country’s ’s largest, and most impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It became a royal residence in 1859, when it was chosen as the site of the court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. There are two permanent galleries, split over

THEODOR AMAN MUSEUM Recently reopened after a long period of restoration, this lovely, centrally-located house is one of the finest old residences in Bucharest, although blink and you will miss it, hemmed in as it is by tall blocks. Built in 1868 as a home and studio by painter Theodor Aman it includes a vast number of Aman’s work: the many murals and frescoes are not the least leas t of these. Look out too for the exterior decorations, the work of sculptor Karl Storck. A charming treat, and really something of a must.QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 8, tel. (+4) 021 314 58 12, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro/muzeul-theodoraman.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Adults 5 lei, children, students, pensioners 2 lei. Photography fee 15 lei.  April - May 2015

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Sightseeing three floors of the main building. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art   - featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art , with all of Romania’s greatest 20th century artists well represented, including  Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancuşi, Gheorghe Patraşcu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu) and European Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old European Masters from all of the major schools. QB/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30/(+4) 021 314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. From May 1st Open 10.00-19.00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art , 10 lei for The National Gallery  (Treasure included) and 15 lei for combined tickets (both galleries). Free on the first Wednesday of each month.

PEASANT MUSEUM �MUZEUL TARANULUI RO� MAN� The Peasant Museum Mus eum is one of the most enjoyable in Bucharest, and one of the best in the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeşti and dating from 1912, the museum offers a range of exhibitions showing you just about all you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history history of life around the Romanian countryside over the past four centuries. There are exhibitions covering covering all aspects of RoRo manian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge range of traditional tr aditional clothing. Replicas of some of what is on display can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89 was home to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary Workers Movement , there is a rather good although somewhat monolingual collectivisation exhibition in the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month and has a lovely (covered) terrace cafe. QB-3, Şos. Kiseleff 3, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00. Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 4 lei. Audio guides are available in English, French, German and Romanian, from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held every month or so) usually costs around 6 lei.

BELLU CEMETER CEMETERY Y Founded in the 1850s, this is the final resting place of  just about every great Romani Romanian an academic, scienti scientist, st, artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot, usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu, killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). Next to the cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor , where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QCalea Serban Voda 249, M Eroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636 35 71, www.bellu.ro. Chapel open 08:00 - 16:00. 42  Bucharest In Your Pocket

VILLAGE MUSEUM �MUZEUL NAŢIONAL AL SATULUI DIMITRIE GUSTI� Founded in 1936 and covering 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herăstrău, Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romania’s historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded commentary in four languages (if the stickers are missing, press the second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19thcentury, but there are some, such as those from Berbeşti, in the heart of Romania - celebrated for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramureş church, complete with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped with thatched roofs. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and stalls selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in a 19th-century inn. Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect family outing. QA-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, M Aviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei, guided tours in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian 300 lei: call in advance. Note that while the museum is open on Mondays, the houses are not. bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing BUILDINGS WITH A HISTOR HISTORY Y Bucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings, which fit none of our other categories all that well.

ARCUL DE TRIUMF Bucharest’s  Arc de triumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romania’s World War I dead. The original  Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935. Standing 25 metres high, the  Arc  has  has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monument, though the whole building is currently being renovated, and a pedestrian underpass built which will allow people to get to it without risking their lives. QA-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf, M Aviatorilor.

ATHENEUM �ATENEUL ROMÂN� Possibly the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the city’s busiest public square, competing with the  Athenee Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national library for attention. The work of French architect Albert Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called ‘Give a penny for the Atheneum’ (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds. Today the seat of the George Enescu Philarmonic , the auditorium is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics. QC-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 315 25 67, 67, www.fge.org.ro. ww w.fge.org.ro. Box Office O ffice Open Ope n 14:00 - 16:00.

CASA PRESEI LIBERE �CASA SCÂNTEII� An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii  (as   (as it is still universally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar (though much taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Built to serve as the home of the capital’s publishing houses, the facade has in recent years been defaced by the addition of advertising hoardings. QA-1, Piata Presei Libere 1.

CEC  The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de Economii si Consemnaţiuni; CEC ) is one of the most fabulous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian columns, is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is 13. no less impressive on the inside.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 13.

PALATUL DIN PIATA VICTORIEI �PALATUL VICTO� RIEI�  To  Today day the home of the Roman Romanian ian government, government, this linear construction was built in 1937 to the design of Duiliu Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now elsewhere). Entrance is only granted to those on government business. QB-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, M Piata Victoriei. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Sightseeing BUCHAREST CITY TOUR Now in its fourth year of operation the Bucharest City Tour sightseeing bus - much maligned when it first appeared - is more popular than ever and is without question one of the best ways to explore the city. In all there are 14 stops along the route (all are well signposted) and every one is directly outside or very close to a major sight. Leaving Casa Scanteii  (officially  (officially now called Casa Presei Libere ) the bus follows Soseaua Kiseleff, passing Herastrau Park and the Village Museum on the left, and Romania’s national rugby stadium on the right, before arriving at the Arc de Triumf. From here the bus continues along Soseaua Kiseleff, passing some of the most expensive real estate in Bucharest. Many of the splendid houses on this street are now embassies. Pavel Pavel Kiseleff by the way, for whom the street is named, was a modernising Russian general who was the de facto governor of Bucharest and Wallachia in the 1830s. A trio of good museums await at the next stop, at the bottom of Soseaua Kiseleff. The best is the Peasant Museum while the Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History and Geology Museum are also worth your time. Calea Victoriei is Bucharest’ Bucharest’ss most famous street, and you get a very ver y different perspective from atop a bus than you do at street level. The vast number of architectural styles on show is immediately obvious, from the Brancovenesque houses at the northern end to the art-deco, 1930s apartment blocks further south. The biggest attraction on Calea Victoriei is probably Piata Revolutiei, where the bus conveniently stops. On this huge square you will find the Atheneum, the Athenee Palace Hilton, the Former Royal Palace (now the National Museum of Art), the Former Central Committee Building and the Revolution Memorial, which locals call ‘an olive on a stick.’ The next stop is the rather amazing CEC   building, home of Romania’s national savings bank, CEC. Opposite is the Post Office Palace, a neoclassical gem built as the home of the Romanian post office, but since 1970 the site of the National History Museum. Behind the museum is the Old Town area of the capital. At the bottom of Calea Victoriei is the river Dambovita, now more a canal than anything, its embankments little more than ugly concrete slabs. Until the 1970s the river was a more natural-looking affair, its embankments covered in trees and foliage. Concrete-fan Concrete-fan Nicolae Ceausescu deemed it untidy, however, and its fate was sealed. In a similar way the whole area that the bus now enters was also ‘tidied up’: hundreds of houses, churches, schools and even hospitals were razed in order to make way for the Civic Centre, of which the most important building is of course the Casa Poporului , where the bus stops. It is almost impossible to imagine how this area looked before the demolitions began (in 1984), but you can get an idea by peering behind the blocks on Bulevardul Unirii at some of the few surviving houses and at the 44  Bucharest In Your Pocket

church of the Antim Monastery, built in 1715 and which survived demolition only by being moved 25 metres from its original location. Piata Unirii itself is one of the largest public squares in Europe. That does not, however, make it one of the nicest. In fact, the square is an awful place, all concrete and traffic. Respite can be found up the hill leading southwest from the square, home of the Romanian Patriarchal Cathedral, known Mitropoliei . From Unirii the bus makes its way along Bulevardul Ion Bratianu, named for a former Romanian prime minister. Look out for the Baratiei Church on your right, which sticks out quite literally, almost into the street. First built in 1590 it is one of the oldest churches in Bucharest. Next stop is Piata Universitatii (the bus stop is in fact outside the Coltea hospital and church - well worth a short visit). Opposite is the much-overlooked Museum of the History H istory Bucharest in the Sutu Palace, while on the other side of the square is the university building itself. the InterContinental  hotel  hotel and the National Theatre. Theatre. The wierd statue in front of the National Theatre is the Caruta cu paiate. As you travel north along Bulevardul Magheru towards the next stop, Piata Romana, look out for two art deco hotels, the Lido on the left (currently closed) and the  Ambassador  on  on the right. Both built in the 1930s they are crying out for five-star refits. Piata Romana is another of Bucharest’ss large public squares that is little more than a Bucharest’ mess of cars and concrete. On the right hand side is the  ASE  building,  building, home of Bucharest’s economics university. From Piata Romana the bus makes its way along Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu towards Piata Victoriei. Smart villas and apartment blocks line the avenue, named for another former Romanian prime minister, Lascar Cartagiu. A large statue of Cartagiu can be spotted about half way along the street, on on the right hand side. At Piata Victoriei, yet another Bucharest square that is little more than concrete and traffic the only point of any real interest (other than the museums) is the 1930s Italianate building on your right, once the foreign ministry but now home to the Romanian government. Look out too for the kitsch mansion on your right, the home of George Becali, the owner of Steaua Bucharest  who  who is currently serving a long prison sentence for corruption. A little further fur ther along, on your left is the  Aviators Monument , dedicated to the many aviation pioneers who hailed from these parts. Arriving at Piata Aviatorilor Aviatorilor,, the bus rejoins Soseaua Kiseleff, stopping once more (at the Village Museum) before ending its circuit back at Casa Scanteii. Tickets for the buses are valid for 24 hours, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off as many times as you like throughout the day. You do, however, need to validate the tickets each time you board a bus. Tickets are priced at 25 lei for adults, 10 lei for children, c hildren, and can be bought either on board, at RATB ticket kiosks or at selected hotels. Headphones offer basic recorded commentary in a number of languages.

bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing HISTORIC CHURCHES ANTIM MONASTERY �MANASTIREA ANTIM�  The splendid Antim Monastery, Monastery, with its elegant dome and gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower through which we today enter the monastery was added in 1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring for its icons featuring the Nativity and Revelations, painted in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.QB-6, Str. Antim 29.

APOSTLES’ CHURCH �BISERICA SFINTII APOSTO� LI� One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church Târnovului novului Monastery ) the Apostles’ Church is notable of the Târ for its sublime steeple, built in 1715 and restored in 1936. Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the portraits are those of the church’s founder, Voivod Matei. QB-6, Str. Sfintii Sfintii Apostoli 33A, M Piata Unirii.

ARMENIAN CHURCH �BISERICA ARMENEASCĂ� Now overlooked by a hideous skyscraper, this is nevertheless one of the largest and best preserved Orthodox churches in central Bucharest. The church (built between 1911-15) is an exact replica of a cathedral in the Armenian city of Ecmiazin, and serves the city’s once large but now miniscule Armenian population. Next to the church is an interesting library with a large number of documents relating to the Armenian population (phone ahead for access). QD-5, B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) 021 313 90 70, www.armenianchurch.ro.

BARATIEI CHURCH �BISERICA BAR ATIEI� Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there has been a church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei , derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat . QC-6, Str. Baratiei 27, M Piata Unirii/Universitate.

BUCUR CHURCH First built as early as 1416, this could well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody is exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but we do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite, which was first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above the street. street . The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church - and the hill on which it stand were recently consolidated in order to prevent them falling further towards the Dambovita river, just a few metres behind. The church is named for Bucur the Shepherd , the legendary founder of Bucharest. QC-7 -7,, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.biseri w ww.biserica-bu ca-bucur.ro. cur.ro. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Sightseeing COLŢEA CHURCH �BISERICA COLŢEA�  To the left (face on) of the Colţea hospital, the church of the same name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden construction. Recent renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. The church (like the recently renovated hospital which surrounds it) was founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino. Look out for the Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque portal. A statue of Cantacuzino stands just inside the entrance to the hospital courtyard.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 1, M Universitate.

CREŢULESCU CHURCH �BISERICA CREŢULESCU� Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest. Biserica Creţulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache Creţulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian ruler Constantin Brâncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist, while the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December 1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory, and is a must. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 47, M Universitate.

DOMNIŢA BALAŞA CHURCH  To say  To say thi thiss chur church ch has been the vict victim im of bad luc luckk isis an an unde underrstatement. Built in 1885, the church is named after Constantin Brâncoveanu’s sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second church was built; but that was wa s also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately started starte d on a third church, but that too proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by the current, orange-coloured, Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977.QB-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii.

MIHAI VODĂ MONASTERY �MĂNĂSTIREA MIHAI VODĂ� One of the churches that was moved to make way for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vodă was originally built in 1601. After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved 285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location beB-6,, Str. Sapienţei 2, M Izvor. hind the apartment blocks. QB-6

NEW ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH �BISERICA SF. GHEO� RGHE NOU� The largest largest of the the churche churchess built built in Buchar Bucharest est during the reign of Constantin Brâncoveanu, New St. George’s Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. New and outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp. Brâncoveanu is himself buried at the church, part of which is currently undergoing renovation.QC-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii. 46  Bucharest In Your Pocket

TEATRUL NATIONAL A building in three parts. The original Romanian National Theatre Bucharest   was built between 1967 and 1970, 19 70, to the design of three Romanian architects, architect s, Horia Maicu, Romeo Belea and Nicolae Cucu. It was designed to honour (in a somewhat modernist way) the architecture of the famous Maramures wooden churches, but was unfortunately ruined in 1984-5 when a grey, concrete, vaguely neo-classical neo- classical casing was placed over the earlier struc structure. ture. That ugly casing, however however,, was removed in 2011 when the theatre’s current programme of renovation began. Now approaching completion, the colourful red and white building once again looks much like the construction the original architects envisaged. Although renovation is not yet fully complete, most of the theatre is back in business, and there are performances of all sorts in the smaller auditoriums most evenings. The main stage is set to reopen in May. The odd metallic statue in front of the theatre is called the Caruta cu paiate, a tribute to Romania’s best loved playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale. It features characters from Caragiale’s plays, and was unveiled in December 2010.QC-5, Piata 21 Decembrie 1989 (Universitatii), M Universitate, www.tnb.ro/en.

PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL �PATRIARHIA�  The Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith fait h since the seventeenth century. century. Built to a design based on the Curtea de Arges near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming ma jority  jori ty of the cat cathedra hedral’s l’s struct structure ure is the orig origina inal,l, bui built lt betwee between n 1654 and 1658, although the outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698. Next to the church is the Patriarchal Palace, residence of the patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Mitrop oliei, MPiata Unirii. Church.QC-6/7, Str. Dealul Mitropoliei,

RADU VODĂ MONASTERY �MĂNĂSTIREA RADU VODĂ�  There was original originally ly a wooden church on this site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508. The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to the Holy  Trinity.  T rinity. The present present church church - which resembles the Curtea de  Argeş, outside Piteşti - dates from 1613-4, though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century, when the frescoes (the work of peerless painter Gheorghe Tattarescu) were added. QC-6, Str. Radu Vodă 24A, M Piata Unirii.

SCHITUL DARVARI �DARVARI HERMITAGE�  The walled Schitul Darvari  is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bucharest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife Elena it was originally a private church for their family. Renovated extensively from 1933-4, a community of monks lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959, when they were forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romania’s communist authorities.QC-5, Str. Schitul Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. Open 07:30 - 19:30. bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MUSEUMS ART COLLECTION MUSEUM �MUZEUL COLECTI� ILOR DE ARTĂ� Firstly, a few words about the building.  The Casa Romanit was constructe constructed d in 1822 as a private residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to serve as the country’s supreme court. There are presently some fantastic works on show here, including paintings by all of Romania’s greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the collections here are second only to those at the National Museum of Art . QB-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 21 2 96 41 41/( /(+4) +4) 021 212 96 42. Open Op en 10:00 -1 -18:00. 8:00. Closed Thu, Fri. From May Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.

COTROCENI MUSEUM Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romania’s first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. It served as the Bucharest residence of the Romanian royal family until 1939. Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be visited on a tour.QB-dul Geniului 1, M Politehnica, tel. te l. (+4) 021 317 31 07, 07, www. w ww. muzeulcotroceni.ro. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27 lei, students and children 21 lei. Admission includes entrance and the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.

GEOLOGY MUSEUM First off, there is the museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The museum’s permanent collections are impressive in size and - being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number of English captions. QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission Admission 8 lei, students and children 4 lei. Ex tra charge for camera use: 30 lei. Guided tours in Romanian 20 lei, English, French 30 lei.

MORE BUCHAREST IYP Due to space restrictions, we’re only able to publish a fraction of our great Bucharest content. One example is our feature on Lesser Visited Bucharest. We have always had a soft spot for those parts of the city that other guides never reach, and we have now begun to write about them: read about two t wo of these lesser visited parts of Bucharest - Bucurestii Noi   and Titan  - as well as find a whole host of other great features online at: beta.inyourpocket.com/bucharest/features facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Sightseeing SIGHTSEEING TOURS BOOKTOURSROMANIA Offers a variety of tours of both Bucharest and Romania. All tours are private and fully customisable, particularly suitable for couples and small groups. The tours on offer vary from a one day walking tour of Bucharest to multiple days spent throughout Romania.Qtel. (+4) 0727 03 29 45, www.booktoursromania.com.

ROARING ROMANIA Roaring Romania offer a walking tour of Bucharest which lasts around two and a half hours, taking in all of the city’s major sights. A knowledgeable local guide will be on hand to tell you all you want to know about everything you see. The tour departs at 10:00 and 14:30 from in front of the Atheneum, opposite the Hilton and costs cost s €15.QTel. (+4) 0730 31 50 96, www.roaringroman www.roaringromania.com. ia.com.

TRANSVISION T  Tran ransV sVis ision ion run runss a nu numbe mberr of tou tours, rs, in inclu cluddCULTURAL TRAVEL & TOURS CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of Bucharest (from €29), a number of themed tours around Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide tours of varying lengths. Other flexible services and guides in a variety of languages are available on request. QTel./fax (+4) 021 336 31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48, www.cttours.ro.

ing a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle, Rasnov Citadel and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. The price is €59/ person. Another option is a two-day two- day tour of Transylvania, Transylvania, also including Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov. The price is €159/person and includes a night at a three-star hotel with breakfast. All tours include free pick-up and return from any Bucharest hotel, as well as an English-speaking guide (other languages (+4) 0755 05 26 21, ww www.transvision. w.transvision.ro. ro. available).Qtel. (+4)

MR. TRIPP

TRAVELMAKER Escorted group tours from and around

Mr. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours, not the least of which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and Snagov for €49, which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes (Dracula). There is also a full-day trip of Sighisoara, Brasov and Sinaia (€79), and they will even pick you up from, and drop you off back at, your hotel, for free. All entrance fees also included.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 0745 75 27 53, www. traveltobucharest.com.

Bucharest, an airport shuttle service and private transfers.  Theirr half-da  Thei half-dayy tour tour of the the city (€29 (€29)) is an an excell excellent ent intr introdu oducction to Bucharest. They also provide hotel accommodation all over Romania, city break packages and short trips. Offers the only daily group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles and Bran Castles for €69 per person.QStr. Elena Vacarescu 9, bl. XXI-2, tel. (+4) 021 232 03 31, www.bucharestcitytour. com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

VMS CITYSHUTTLE Offers a number of tours of BuchaRAPSODIA TOURS Offers a full range of tours of Bucharest (including a Bucharest evening tour with dinner) as well as Mogosoaia and Snagov, and a full day trip to Peles and Bran castles.  There is also a twotwo-day day tour of Transylvania.QB-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 1, tel. (+4) 0744 63 82 92/(+4) 0744 58 67 24.

NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM �MUZEUL TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA� Often unfairly derided as an outdated museum of technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge ed ge when they first appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century.  The museum is housed in something of a cherish cherished ed relic itself: the last remaining pavilion (one of many) built (like the Carol Park in which it stands) to host the 1906 Romania in the World Fair . QC-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 93 90. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6 lei, students, children 3 lei.

rest and the surrounding area, as well as the Prahova Valley and southern Transylvania (including Bran Castle). Prices start at €25 for a half day tour of Bucharest, and €49 for the Bran Tour. Trips to the Buzau wineries, Sibiu and Sighisoara via the Transfagarasan, the Black Sea and Danube Delta on request.QStr. Nicolae Caramfil 87, et. 6, EKA Building, tel. (+4) 021 204 77 77, www.cityshuttle.ro. Open 24 hours. bolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the small museum that today bears bear s his name has only six of his paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted other art.

THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM �CASA MELIK, MUZEUL THEODOR PALLADY�  Theodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romania’s most influential 20th century painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Sym48  Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

 The museum’s saving grace is the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa Melik , it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork 211 49 Nazaretoglu.QD-5, Str. Spătarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 79. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5 lei, students and children 2.50 lei.

mous for its many exterior icons. On the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906), once a water C-7 7, Calea Cal ea Serban Se rban Vodă, tower but now used as offices. QCM Eroii Revolutiei.

CISMIGIU GARDENS �GRĂDINA CISMIGIU�

PARKS & GARDENS BOTANICAL GARDENS �GRĂDINA BOTANICĂ� Bucharest ’s rather fabulous Botanical Gardens were foundBucharest’s ed in 1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in the grounds of the Cotroceni Monaster y, moving to their present location in 1884. The gardens today extend over an area of more than 17 hectares, and host more than 10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses, recently renovated and fabulous: kids love the wide variety of strange plants inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps.QSos. Cotroceni 32, M Politehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, www.gradina-botanica.ro. www.gradina-botani ca.ro. Gardens Open 08:00 08:00-2 -20:00. 0:00. Botanical Museum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00, Sat, Sun, Closed Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.

CAROL PARK �PARCUL CAROL I� Designed in 1906 by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, Carol Park is today dominated by the massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today the site of the tomb of the unknown Romanian soldier). The park offers some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, playgrounds, and a good view of central Bucharest from fr om the monument.  The  Arenele Romane   in the west of the park, next to the observatory of the Astronomic Institute of the Romanian Academy is a popular venue for concerts. Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church , built in 1796 and fafacebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

 The most central of the city’s public gardens, Cismigiu Cismigiu is a haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Cismigiu was first designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until 1860. More than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights Highlight s of the 17 17 hectare hectar e garden include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of Romania’s most famous writers, and the lake, which during the winter can be skated on.QB-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vodă and B-dul Schitu Măgureanu, MUniversitate.

HERĂSTRĂU PARK  This glorious park, park , spread over 18 1877 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharest’s crown, which might explain why half of the city chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons afterno ons here. The first thing you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle himself. Unveiled Unveiled in 2006 the statue st atue is the work of local artar tist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharest’s hosting that year of the Francophonie  conference. Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the park with a statue or bust, however. In fact, the alleyways and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literature’s most important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Tagore. Look out also for local lo cal artists artist s Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romania’s national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured with statues include William Shakespeare, Shakespeare, Ady Endre, SanSan dor Petofi and Victor Hugo. You can hire bikes at the main entrance: they are free for two hours but you will need to leave ID.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, M Aviatorilor.  April - May 2015

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Old Town Continental

 ic  e s t i  c  M a j e

 s a  C a p  C a s a

Capitol Cismigiu

Museum of  Bucharest K&K

Z Boutique

Elisabeta Coltea Church & Hospital

Central Doamnei Russian Church

Rembrandt

Mihai Voda

Stavropoleos Church

History Museum

Tania

Baratiei

Sf. Dumitru Old Court Palace & Church

Cocor 

Europa Royale

Domnita Balasa

Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre) - is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest which survived both the bombing of World War II and the bulldozers of Romania’s communist planners. It is described by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one kilometre square, the area boasts more restaurants, pubs and clubs than any other district in the city.

GETTING THERE You can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city centre. Two Two metro stations serve the t he area: Piata Universitatii to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. Note that most

50  Bucharest In Your Pocket

of the Old Town’s streets are pedestrianised, with access for vehicles strictly limited (well, strictly by Romanian standards). There There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii, accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will usually drop you off at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada Selari) or at the National Bank. When leaving the Old Town always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page seven for more on taxis in Bucharest.

OLD TOWN WALK Begin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in Piata Universitatii, before heading to the Russian Church (officially called the St. Nicholas Students’ Church). From here, it’s worth popping along to the National Bank, on the other side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse, Macca-Villacrosse, and Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used to describe the whole Old Town area. Then make sure you head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru’ cu Bere pub and restaurant. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to take a look at the Zlatari Church, National History Museum and CEC   building before coming back into the Old Town via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Dumitru Church. At the far end, in Piata Sf Anton, is the Old Court Palace and Church: the very raison d’etre of the entire Old Town area. The Hanul Manuc is opposite. For more details on all of the sights you will spot along the way, see the Old Town Sights listings, which begin on page 63. bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Old Town

OLD TOWN CAFES NEW CREMERIA EMILIA Got kids? Want to win some serious parenting points? Bring them here. Ice creams, sundaes, cakes and biscuits, all freshly made on the premises. The place itself is great, with a long, Italian-style counter and seating both up and downstairs. Not cheap, the ice cream is nevertheless sensational and worth every ever y penny: it’s the best Bucharest has ever produced. Make sure you visit and convince yourself of the fact.QC-6, Str. Franceza 38-42, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 67 12 27, www.cremeriaemilia.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. PGSW

GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest ‘meet you there’ venue. Its genius is that it’s ideal at every time of day: morning coffee or breakfast breakf ast sat in front of one of the long windows, a casual lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than once. They do a great brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00 (way cheaper than the big hotels) and we should also mention that van Gogh stays open late at the weekend, offering a very decent after-party food menu.QC-6, Str. Smardan 9, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh. ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. PSW facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

KLEIN CAFE Good cafe situated on the mezzanine floor of the Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking cafe in the Old Town we believe. They serve a great continental breakfast until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants, muffins, Dutch cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and freshly squeezed orange juice, while throughout the rest of the day fresh, warm waffles are served with a choice of toppings. Good hot chocolate, and a wide range of exotic teas. Nice.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15/(+4) 021 313 93 16, www. rembrandt.ro. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 24:00. PGSW

LES BOURGEOIS A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure there is always good reason to come and eat, drink or just have one of over 30 (we counted) coffees here. Foodwise, there is plenty to choose from: so much in fact that making individual recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find something they like. Top desserts, too. Get in.QC-6, Str. Smardan 20, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, www.lesbourgeois. ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:0 0. PSW

STARBUCKS HANUL LUI MANUC Starbucks has been a feature of Bucharest’s malls for some time now, but this is the first city centre location, and already its the franchise’s most popular. Doesn’t look much like your average Starbucks - possibly part of the attraction - it is situated in  April - May 2015

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Old Town the historic  Hanul lui Manuc , an inn dating from the 19th century. Rest assured you can still get your hands on a superb Starbucks coffee, however, and all in the company of the city’s trendiest people, who throng here. It’s also nonsmoking, unlike just about every other cafe in the city.QC-6, Str. Franceza 62, M Piata Unirii, www.starbucksromania. w ww.starbucksromania. ro. Open 08:00 - 23:30. PGSW

OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS: CABARET

EMBASSY HANUL CU TEI Making very good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei , always one of our favourite parts of Lipscani, Embassy is lovely lounge on the first floor of the old han (inn) which serves food and drink to an older, wiser and simply nicer crowd than many other places we could mention in Old Town. Good (if a little pricey) bistro food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices. For those in the know, this is the sister establishment of the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www. embassy-hanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C4) P-ta Lahovari 8, Open 11:30-03:00. €€€. PSW

MULANRUJ DINING THEATRE & CLUB Upstairs at Bordello’s  is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a dinner and events venue where there is regular cabaret - including burlesque, magicians and such like - stand-up comedy, live music and theme parties. Tickets usually include both the show and an excellent dinner, and there is usually a wide range of dining options. The food - as you would expect from the people who run Bordello’s - is always excellent. You can get all the details about coming events direct from Bordello’s or the venue’s Facebook page.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open 19:00 - 24:00. €€€. PEW

FINE DINING

FRENCH CHOCOLAT Hard to pin this place down. Is it a cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee? In fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant restaurant ser ving delicious, well priced light meals (soups, pasta, salad) of a French and Italian bent. There is chocolate of course - loads of it - as well as more kinds of gourmet bread than we could possibly list. Find it next to Caru cu Bere.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 12A, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0728 03 41 75/(+4) 021 314 92 45, www.chocolat.com.ro. Open 08:30 - 23:30. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83, Afi Palace Cotroceni, tel. (+4) 0727 84 68 02 and Baneasa Shoping City, tel. (+4) 0730 60 88 88. €€€. PSW

THE ARTIST RESTAURANT Consistently brilliant, this is food as art. The work of a young Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is something special. The menu changes with the seasons, and the homemade truffle turkey sausage is probably our pick of the current menu, alongside the confit duck leg. For dessert, the chef’s take on the local favourite salam de biscuiti  is   is tremendous. There is a spoon tasting menu for those thos e who want to try all the main courses currently being served. In keeping with the food the restaurant itself is contemporary and upmarket, a mix of the bright and the simple, chic without ever going over the top. Prices reflect the high quality.QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71/(+4) 031 106 17 22, www.theartist.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€€€. PBW

FOOD & DRINK BURGERBAR Not just another Bucharest burger bar, this place could well be the Bucharest burger bar. Served with fantastic, chunky, Belgian-style fries, crispy onion rings, four homemade sauces and Heinz ketchup they have gone the extra mile here. The burgers are made on the spot from fresh ground beef, and there are loads lo ads of toppings to choose from. Your kids will love the mini-burgers. The desserts are OK too: you haven’t eaten a fudge in Bucharest until you’ve tried the one they’re serving here. Add in funky contemporary decor and you have a place we are more than happy to recommend.QC-6, Str. Lipscani (Pasajul Selari), M Piata Universitatii, tel. (+4) 021 313 03 76. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobantilor 182, tel. (+40) 21 233 90 96. €€. PVSW facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

LA BONNE BOUCHE Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chef’s specials too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly simple place. Note that they accept  Amex cards: not everyFrancez a 30, M Piata where does in Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Franceza Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PESW

CARTURESTI CARUSEL Bucharest‘s most impressive bookshop is this wonderful building on Strada Lipscani. Dating from the latter part of the 19th century the building was home to a department store during the communist era, before standing neglected for almost a quarter of century until reopening earlier this year after a long renovation. And what a renovation: the building has been bought back to life by Carturesti‘s team of architects architect s and is that impressive that even if you are not in the market for any books, you must pop in to have a look. It is also perhaps the only shop in Bucharest where the staff do not tell you off for taking photos: indeed, it‘s positively encouraged. Besides the tens of thousands of books and gifts on sale there is gallery and exhibition space, and a rather good bistro on the top floorQC-6, Str. Lipscani 55, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0728 82 89 22, www.carturesticarusel.ro.. Open 10:00 - 24:00. www.carturesticarusel.ro  April - May 2015

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Old Town NOUVELLE VAGUE Small yet perfectly formed French eatery offering new flavours created by one of Romania’s best chefs. On our visit the highlight of the menu was the amazing duo of rabbit and foie gras, which was at once rich yet light. Great desserts, a top wine list - with wine tastings at least one evening per week - and any number of reasons to pay a visit. Not cheap but you get full value for your money.QC-6, Str. Franceza 13, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4).0735 48 94 83, www.nouvellevague.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:30. €€€€. PSW

go by. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole city is going by).QC-6, Str. Franceza 52, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, officebuongiorno.centrulistoric@ citygrill.ro, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 08: 00 - 02:00. 02:0 0. Also at (B-2) Str. Str. Herăstrău 2; (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa Shopping Center, 1st floor. €€€. PBSW

LEBANESE SINDBAD

GREEK MEZE TAVERNA Another excellent Greek restaurant. It even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously, seriously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and cheese are musts), alongside what is some of the best lamb we’ve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice treat too. The chef, Georgios, is always coming up with tasty daily specials, so ask your waiter what’s cooking.  The house red is a drinkable bargain.QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www. mezetaverna.ro.. Open 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PESW mezetaverna.ro

INDIAN LITTLE INDIA It was about time Old Town got itself a decent curry house, and Little India  is it. From the same people who have been cooking up first class Indian food at Karishma for more than a decade dec ade now, this superb place has quickly become the talk of Lipscani. Expect a similar menu to the one at Karishma, including a couple of searing vindaloos, and a lamb rogan roga n josh to rival that of any Indian anywhere. Plenty for vegetarians, and the mango shake is a treat.QC-6, Str. Franceza 7, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0720 78 67 86. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€€. PVSW

ITALIAN

Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mutton dishes as main courses. There’s both an exterior (at the right time of year) and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely Middle Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy chairs. QC-6, Str. Lipscani 19, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 317 77 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PVSW

ROMANIAN CARU’ CU BERE Should probably be the first stop on the food and drink list of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The service is usually good (now: it never used to be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes place most evenings. Note that the building’s facade is currently being renovated. The restaurant remains open as usual.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28 23 73, www. carucubere.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. €€€. PESW

BEL MONDO A good Italian restaurant, one of the better bet ter

CITY GRILL

ones in the Old Town, which offers decent food - we recommend the fresh tomato soup with mozarella - at prices that are more than reasonable. The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and the space itself is big, open, light and blessed with sensationally high ceilings. Easily the best occupant of the old  Amsterdam Cafe location since  Amsterdam itself. QC-6, Str. Covaci 6, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 96 66 36/(+4) 0721 22 02 73, www.restaurantbelmondo.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PSW

 They call these places ‘your dining room in the city,’ and an d given the homely food and cheap prices (the lunchtime deals are just about unbeatable) they might just be right. You can expect big portions of delicious, often rather adventurous Romanian food, cooked and presented wonderfully and always served with a smile. We like the carnati de plescoi , tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and pork, while there are also no fewer than five types of mici on the menu. There’s a good selection of local beers to choose from too. Recently renovated, the place itself looks better than ever and as a reliable, good value diner it’s hard to beat.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 12, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0729 62 62 62/(+4) 021 314 24 89, www.citygrill.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) 0727 62 62 62; (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and Calea Floreasca 175, 17 5, tel. (+4) 0727 54 33 33. €€. PVEBSW

TRATTORIA TRATTORI A BUONGIORNO We have always loved Trattoria Buongiorno, and have quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the Old Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for, and the pasta is made on the premises). The location makes it a seriously good place to eat and watch the world 54  Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Old Town Which Old Town venue is closest? Go to: m.inyourpocket.com

stairs on the balcony you annoyingly need to sit at certain tables - it is not always clear which - if you want to order food.QC-6, Str. Franceza, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TEBSW

CRAMA DOMNEASCA

LACRIMI SI SFINTI

Right in the heart of Bucharest’s historic centre, this is Romanian food of indeed historic proportions. You can expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton to tender pork steaks.  The home baked bread is always ser ved warm war m (if it is not, send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get longer and longer. It’s the kind of place where you will be discretely but contentedly loosening your belt before the night is done.QC-6, Str. Selari 13-15, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0758 33 30 00, www.cramadomneasca.net. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PESW

Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescu’s latest culinary adventure is this classy place in the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very good) wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything else, the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are decent enough and the place is charmingly decorated (look out for the signs for the loos, made from Lego). You will want to stay way after you have finished your meal.QC-6, Str. Sepcari 16, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99/(+4) 0725 55 82 86, www.lacrimisisfinti.com. Open 12:30 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00. €€€. PESW

HANUL LUI MANUC �HANUL MANUC, MANUC’S INN� Built in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui Manuc  (Manuc’s  (Manuc’s Inn) is one of Europe’s last remaining caravanserai . The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. A hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked better, and is currently home to two restaurants: Manuc’s Bistro (which serves Romanian food: good mici ) and Levantin, a Lebanese eatery. There is also a Starbucks cafe, and in summer the courtyard is packed. Note that if you sit up-

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RUSSIAN RUSSIAN HOUSE  There have been a few attempts at opening Russian restaurants in Bucharest over the years. Having paid a visit to this place we can tell you without a doubt that this is the best yet. Authentic Russian food (from simple yet delicious  pelimeni to more sophisticated dishes such as baked rabbit), plenty of live music and a fully non-smoking room for those of us who like to eat without getting a faceful of other people’s cigarette

 April - May 2015

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Old Town smoke. For that reason alone it has to be worth your time. QC-6, Str. Doamnei 21, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0730 22 80 90, www.russianhouse.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PLEBSW

SEAFOOD MARIN SEAFOOD GRILL Brilliant: this place looks as though it belongs in Croatia. Why go for a kebab when for much the same price you can get fresh, tasty sardines with grilled veggies? Or a magnificently hot fish soup? Pay a bit more (but still a pit tance) and you can feast on mussels, squid and octopus: the kind that melts in the mouth. Tiny, it has a covered terrace at this time of year and a couple of tables inside. If you like seafood you will love it.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 4, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 84 75. Open 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. €€. SW

STEAK ORO TORO From the people who brought you Osho comes this place, a colourful addition to Strada Franceza. You can expect much the same kind of food as at the original Osho: top burgers, steaks, chicken and pork, as well as sensational finger food and club sandwiches. There is usually a bargain set-priced menu at lunchtime. Not to be missed is the oxtail soup: probably the only place in the city you will get it cooked exactly as it should be. Gets clubby as the evening wears on.QC-6, Str. Franceza 3842, M Unirii, tel. (+4) 021438 05 24/(+4) 0744 633 724, www.orotoro.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PESW

TURKISH DIVAN From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The well-priced well-price d food is good value Turkish/Middle Turkish/Middle Eastern, and it’s very good indee d. They will even cook cook you a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe: there’s a huge range of flavours to choose from.QC-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 30 34, www.thedivan.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-2) Calea Floreasca 111-113. €€€. PSW

OLD TOWN BARS: COCKTAILS & QUIRKY BICICLETA  The name means Bicycle, and it will not take you long to work out why: the place p lace is by and large furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who want something a 56  Bucharest In Your Pocket

bit more comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails cockt ails by night is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force. QC-6, Str. Lipscani 38, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61 62 98, [email protected]. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW

LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI A cocktail bar (there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where everything has been thought out to the minutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory , so you get your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask, while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually, they have even invested in decent bar stools. Trendy without overdoing it. Commendable.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 8, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW

PAPIOTA Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars. Packed with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and bobs, it could easily have a hipster attitude: Thankfully it doesn’t. Add in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many Old Town bars and that late on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door and you have a top place. It also has lots of big windows, the drinks are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the music is clubby withou t over- (or under-) doing it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 43, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 367 27 77, www.papiota.ro. Open 14:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. PBW bucharest.inyourpocket.com

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REHAB BAR An Old Town bar has to be a bit different these days to grab our attention: Rehab is just that. It’s the kind of place you see anywhere and everywhere, except in Bucharest. Until now. With cushions on wooden steps making impromptu seats and a sofa at the window, it’s  just very different and highly welcome. The drinks menu is is done in the style of a medical journal, and offers the usual mix of coffee, tea, cocktails and smoothies. For added quirkiness you get the bill in a sample bottle.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 19, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 12 25 52. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PW

OLD TOWN BARS: UPMARKET ENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHI You will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refreshingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these days.QC-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0722 93 79 72. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PSW

KLEIN BAR & BISTRO Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. It’s a great place to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge of Bucharest’s newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a favourite for those looking for something just a little more restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an ad hoc Tourist Info Centre.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PGW

NOMAD SKYBAR  Those of you expecting expec ting to find this ‘skybar ‘skybar’’ up in the Gods will no doubt be disappointed to find it no higher than the second floor of an Old Town building. That will be the only disappointment, however, for this place is ace: a design sensation making fantastic use of an amazing loft which does indeed look upon the sky via its mainly glass facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

roof. There is a range of events, be it live music of various sorts or DJs spinning tunes, and besides drinks there is a decent selection of good food. It has been a hit since it first opened in December and we expect it to stay popular for some time to come.QC-6, Str. Smardan 30, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 44 80 80. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PEBW

THE BAZAAR Club Tropicana. It’s not every day you see a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there too many places in Old Town as big as this: there’s upstairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street outside. On one of Old Town’s less-crowded streets this is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is loungesque , supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun and sunshine.QC-6, Str. Covaci 10, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Open 10:00 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW

THE DRUNKEN LORDS It’s alright this place: worth looking out for. In a side street between Lipscani and Blanari, you will find a good, lively pub playing decent music and offering a vibe a little more upmarket than most other places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports and regular cultural events. Very cool.QC-6, Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15, 15, www.thedrunkenlords. www.thedru nkenlords. ro. Open 17:00 - 5:00. PEBSW

OLD TOWN WINE BARS ABEL’S WINE BAR Genuinely gorgeous little wine bar one of the most character-filled streets stre ets in the Old Town. This place oozes charm from every corner, corne r, its simple yet striking decor a refreshing change from some of the more gaudy places in the area. Stocks a wide selection of terrific wine from all over the world, and most are available availabl e by the glass. There’s also tea, very good coffee and long drinks. You will love it.QC-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 10, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0371 03 36 43, www.abelswinebar.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PSW  April - May 2015

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BRUNO WINE BAR & BISTRO So much more than wine and coffee on offer here you will be forgiven for thinking you have the wrong place! This is a bistro really, a genuine French style place, where good wine by the glass is available next to a decent spread of simple food, with a regularly changing menu. Top selection of cognac.QC-6, Str. Covaci 3, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 91, www.brunowine. ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00. PBSW

from across the world. Almost all of them are available by the glass. The idea behind this place was to create a wine bar where anyone - no matter how little they know about wine - would feel welcome, comfortable and not be intimidated. In that regard, it’s a total success.QStr. Bacani 1, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 24:00. PSW

THOMAS ANTIQUES BAR CORKS COZY BAR Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side street which quickly won itself a handy following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine list will be enough to tell you why, offering as it does a vast range of wines

Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the goods you’ve been admiring. There’s nothing quite like taking tea on an antique chair you might end up taking home. Regular events too, from string quartets to book launches and the like.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.

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OLD TOWN PUBS BARBERO A Lipscani bar that we liked the moment mo ment we first walked in.  The whole place is brightly tiled and done d one in the style of an old barber ’s shop (as the name might suggest). We love the red lamps hanging down over the (long) ( long) bar, designed to look like old hair dryers. Good music, usually provided by a DJ, and well priced drinks.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 38, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0767 50 80 80. Open 12:00 05:00. PW

BEER O’CLOCK   This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly named. With brews from all over the world you could drink a different beer every night for a month and not try the same one twice. What’s more, besides the beer they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great at tention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, it’s worth reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note: there is now a much bigger Beer O’Clock  on   on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny original.QC-6, 58  Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Old Town Pasajul Vilacrosse, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.beeroclock.ro. Open 16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVSW

BIUTIFUL When you walk in, you will see where the name comes from: it is indeed biutiful , an enormous industrial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out the lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmosphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary central London bar and grill. The food is more than decent - salads, tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish sandwich a confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasn’t bad either. A must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both. Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after that it’s first come first served.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PSW

BORDELLO  There is always something going on here, every night of the week. From quiz nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop for great nights out. There’s Heineken, Murphy’s and Paulaner on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great, with some rather special tapas, including the ribs which are just about the best we’ve ever had in Bucharest. At the weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir , and note that upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. You can’t miss this place by the way: just look for the ‘tarts’ in their underwear beckoning you in.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PESW

telling us we can’t sit at the bar). Hosting regular events, from theme parties to karaoke, you will find this place at the northern edge of the Old Town, at the end of the little alley that runs from Lipscani to Blanari, opposite the church.QC-6, Str. Blanari 21, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0729 72 87 82, www.expatpub.ro. Open 19:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon.

EXPAT PUB Looking to become one of the city’s default after-work and expat venues, this place has plenty going for it, not least the hands-on owners and the great staff: they clearly know what an actual pub should look and feel like, which is nothing less than revolutionary for fo r this city. For instance, it’s got a great wooden bar and proper stools so you can sit at the bar itself. (We are fed up with Bucharest pubs

EXPLORER’S PUB A likeable Irish pub on Strada Franceza whose biggest attraction - besides a more than decent pint of Guinness - is the vast collection of maps on the walls. We also like the fact that you can sit at the bar on a proper bar stool, while the selection of food is better - and more varied - than you would expect to find at your average pub. Very nicely done indeed.QC-6, Str. Franceza 9, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 19 01 31, www.explorerspub.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00. PW

LA 100 DE BERI  The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers, and that’s exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu it would appear that they stock considerably more than 100 beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for those who don’t fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar at which you can sit all night and sample as many beers as you can.QC-6, Str. Covaci 8, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60 46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.

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OKTOBERFEST What makes this place so special is

OLD CITY Very good, always lively pub and club with

how very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary ‘out for a drink and a good time’ locals at that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something happen every night, whether it’s football on the th e television or impromptu drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2, which has a small terrace with heaters at this time of year.QC-6, Str. Selari 9 -11, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-6) Str. Franceza 3. Open 10:00 - 07:00. PNBW

regular live music and other events on Lipscani with a huge beer garden (in the right weather) out the back. Serves a decent range of very good cocktails (a sweet-as-you-like mojito went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket on our last visit) and some pub grub that is far better than you would assume. A big screen shows football and the like, and it hosts loads of theme nights, from Insane Wednesdays to Champagne Saturdays.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 45, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcitylipscani.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW

TRUE SOCIAL CLUB In that wonderful location once

of the Curtea Sticlarilor  was   was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a few survive and no less than four bars have opened here.  This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor  (Brewers’   (Brewers’ Courtyard), though there is no brewing done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, M Piata Unirii, tel. tel . (+4) 021 313 313 75 32, www. w ww. curteaberarilor.com. Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW

known as Temple (on the corner of Strada Selari and Splaiul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively live music venue well worthy of your time (it’s owned and run by two legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a track record of delivering the goods). When the resident covers band or top local act isn’t performing per forming you will find karaoke, and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually means that there is always something here for everyone. Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to choose from.QC-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with Str. Selari), M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87, www. trueclub.ro. Open , Thu, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Fri 20:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW

LIVE MUSIC CLUBS

STUDENT & UNDERGROUND

MOJO

BASTARDS Is that really  what   what it is called? Yes: that is re-

 Three level extrav e xtravaganza aganza of a venue. On the ground floor is the pub, upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice to his customers. When ace local bands are not playing, the resident band usually is. Also now puts on regular quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy too, and serves the largest selection of cider in Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96/(+4) 0746 04 65 60, [email protected], www. mojomusic.ro. Open 13:00 - 05:00. PEW

ally what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls stripped back to the red brick, br ick, this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it could be a DJ spinning old school electro tunes. Regardless of what is going on you will probably enjoy it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 28, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Open 20:00 - 06:0 0. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB

OLD TOWN BEERHALL CURTEA BERARILOR Once upon a time the whole

60  Bucharest In Your Pocket

CLUB A Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town, this place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, upfor-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs that you won’t have heard for ages, this is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every night of bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Old Town

the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights to theatre.QC-6, Str. Blănari 14, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Open 10:30 - 05:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00.

Open all day too, it has a terrace (or will, when the weather allows), it shows loads of live football and the comfy sofas for crashing on a bonus.QC-6, Str. Smardan 41, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0729 05 62 54, www.clubcliche.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW

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FINNISH COCKTAIL & CLUB A little more chic and upFIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past year or so has shed its shabby-chic look lo ok and which has become a bigger, brighter and less smokey venue than ever before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and not-so-young, and to be honest it is as good as ever. We have always liked the place and if you want to ‘go local’ it is one of your better options in the Old Town. There is also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 12, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04, www.fire.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.

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UPMARKET CLUBS CLICHE CLUB & LOUNGE Eternally popular club on Strada Smardan which has become something of an Old  Town institution over the past couple of years. A modern and elegant place serving coffee and cocktails the music caters pretty much to all tastes and there is always soem kind of party going on, not the least of which is Friday night, when the place is rammed full of party people. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

market than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more varieties than you ever thought possible, but there is more to this place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and beer. They even have Guinness on draught. The music - usually provided by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good as the design, the crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to enjoy yourself here.QC-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.finnish.ro. Open 13:30 - 05:00. PBW

LA MUSE Last time we popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in Bucharest. That’s the kind of place this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-ofyour-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a downto-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love it.QC-6, Str Lipscani 53, M Piata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36, www.lamuse.ro. Open 09:00 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW  April - May 2015

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LATE NIGHT FOOD CALIF Besides serving decent standard kebabs, Calif prides itself on also offering more than a few ‘healthy‘ options, as well as a number of vegetarian kebabs and dishes They also do what we will happily admit is a very good lentil soup.QC-6, Str. Selari 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+40) 21 310 15 62, www.calif.ro. Open 24hrs.

THE VAUL VAULTT Smooth. Smooth people, smooth vibes and smooth cocktails. We love the (long) nights we spend in this place, not least because you never know what to expect on the music front: it could be a night of pop, a night of disco classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-tothe-minute clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance and delve inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself.QC6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0723 19 99 77. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.

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CHICKEN STAFF S TAFF KFC  on   on the ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00, so instead get yourself here for your late night/early morning chicken fix. They do superb  pui la rotiserie : tasty chicken roasted slowly over a spit. QC-6, Str. Smardan 31, M Piata Unirii. Open 11:00 - 05:00.

DRISTOR KEBAP Legendary chain of kebab shops, which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide, even in to Old Town.QC-6, Str. Franceza 17, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 315 55 40, www.dristorkebap. ro. Open 24 hrs. Also at (C-7) B-dul Marasesti 42, Calea Vacaresti 391, B-dul Camil Ressu 1 and B-dul Timisoara 26.

OLD TOWN SIGHTS BANCA NATIONALA A ROMANIEI  The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the   Hanul Serban Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various things, from a pub, to an inn, to a dormitory for a nearby girl’s school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns, and an ornate, enormous central banking hall.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 25, M Universitate.

GYROS THESSALONIKI In our opinion, this place serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. It’s a regular late-night haunt of ours and the queues speak for themselves. Alongside the kebabs there are also salads, lamb dishes and sweets. Cheap too: it’s a winner. QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 2, M Piata Unirii. Open 24hrs.

MCDONALD’S  The good news is McDonald’s  has finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that much sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin  can now be yours at most central Bucharest McDonald’s outlets. But only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would ser ve them all day.QC-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre), M Piata Unirii, www.mcdonalds.ro. Open 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. McDrive at (A-4) Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu 307, Sos. Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu Vacarescu 146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs. 62  Bucharest In Your Pocket

NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM �MUZEUL NA� TIONAL DE ISTORIE�  The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romania’s National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru Săvulescu. It originally served (until 1970) as the headquarters of Poşta Romană, the Romanian postal service. The museum’s exhibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, although the vast majority are currently closed for renovation. The museum’s two most important collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda and a full-scale replica of Trajan’s Column.  The Romanian Romanian Treasury Treasury includes jewellery jewellery from the time of the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown Jewels. The bizarre statue on the museum’s steps allegedly represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf.QC-5, Calea bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Old Town Latest Bucharest events:

facebook.com/ bucharestinyourpocket Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 315 82 07, www. ww w. mnir.ro. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25 lei, pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei.

OLD COURT PALACE & CHURCH �PALATUL ŞI BI� SERICA CURTEA VECHE�  The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the 15th-century by Vlad Ţepeş, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu. The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the site are exhibited. The whole complex is set to be restored this year. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715, during the reign of Ştefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Mişu Papa, were added in 1847.QC-6, Str. Franceza, M Piata Unirii. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

STAG NIGHTS As much as the city has tried to ignore the fact, Bucharest is quickly becoming a popular destination for that scourge of Europe’s capitals: the stag night. Drawn by cheap flights and the giveaway prices of drink and cigarettes, the Romanian capital - which managed to stay off the stag radar for quite some time - finally appears to have succumbed. While this is in general no bad thing (stag parties spend as much money as any other visitors to Bucharest, in many cases much more) not all locals are happy about the influx, and that includes a surprising number of bar, pub and club managers: it might be worth phoning ahead to see if 25 blokes in matching t-shirts will actually be welcome at your venue of choice. What’s more, a number of seedy strip and nightclubs (often little more than poorly disguised brothels) have popped up in the Old Town like mushrooms after the rain, all hankering after the drunken pound of the leery stag night reveller. reveller. Beware them all: these places are rarely legitimate businesses and will often part you of as much cash as you are carrying. If you do have to indulge in what might be described as ‘clothes off activities’ head for a massage parlour (and read the Vice Advice we publish on page 40). facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

PASAJUL MACCA�VILACROSSE  Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah pipes and exotic tobaccos -   Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei then the busiest street in the city - and the National Bank. It is named for a Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest, and Mihalache Macca, son-in-law of the building’s architect, Felix Xenopol. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass roof to allow natural light, also intended to encourage commerce at street level. In other words, this was Bucharest’s first shopping mall.QC-6, Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse; Calea Victoriei, M Universitate.

STAVROPOLEOS CHURCH �BISERICA STAV� ROPOLEOS�  The church was built in 172 17244 at the insistence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard out side has a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 4, M Universitate, tel. (+40) 21 313 47 47, www.stavropoleos.ro.

ST. DUMITRU CHURCH �BISERICA SF. DUMITRU DE JURAMANT� Currently being fully renovated (and as such covered in scaffolding) the St. Dumitru Church (Biserica Sf. Dumitru) dates back to the 15th century. It was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1847 and the current building dates from 1852  April - May 2015

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Old Town THE 1977 EARTHQUAKE At 21:22, on the evening of March 4, 1977, Bucharest was hit by an earthquake measuring a whopping 7.3 on the Richter scale. It lasted for almost a minute, during which time almost every building in the Romanian capital shook wildly. More than 1,500 people were killed by the quake, including comedian Toma Caragiu, at the time the most popular actor in the country. Located close to a major fault line, Bucharest has been shaken by a number of major earthquakes over the years. In 1940, more than 300 people died in the first major quake of the modern era. Though few other buildings were fully destroyed, many were damaged, and it was the failure to consolidate these buildings effectively that led to the even worse carnage of 1977. Romania’s then president, Nicolae Ceausescu, was in Lagos when told of the earthquake. He was initially informed that the entire city of Bucharest had been destroyed: the fact that the city’s electricity supply had been completely cut off made communication difficult. It was only towards midnight that partial electricity was restored. Ceausescu declared a state of emergency and a plane was sent to bring him home. His general conduct during the days that followed – he ordered the search for survivors to continue after the usual cut-off point and appeared to be a genuinely calming influence on the shaken population – is widely considered to be one of the few commendable moments of his entire dictatorship. There was certainly great political capital to be made out of the earthquake. The state-run media reported at great length how the country’s emergency systems had functioned perfectly (they hadn’t: there was a shortage of hospital beds for victims) and that though much international help had been offered, little was needed and little had been taken. In fact, almost all the aid that poured in, from specially-trained search dogs to food and drinking water, was gratefully accepted by the desperate Romanian authorities. The earthqua earthquake ke changed the face of Bucharest forever. More than 40 apartment blocks were totally destroyed, as well as hundreds of houses. Yet the regime used the very real need to rebuild and consolidate the city as a means to stamp Ceausescu’s vision of what a socialist city should look like on the Romanian capital. In many regards, the Centru Civic , and Casa Poporului , had their genesis in the plans drawn up after the 1977 earthquake. If there was a silver lining to the cloud that was the 1977 earthquake, it was in the introduction of strict new construction guidelines: all buildings that have been raised since are thus said to be earthquake-proof. However, consolidation of buildings damaged in 1940 and 1977 has still not been fully carried out. As such, a number of buildings in the city centre display a red disc, declaring them to be at great risk of falling in Bucharest’s next big earthquake. 64  Bucharest In Your Pocket

but it has undergone numerous renovations due to damage from earthquakes. St. Dumitru is the patron saint of Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Postei 2, M Piata Unirii.

ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH �BISERICA SFANTUL NICOLAE � BLANARI�  The church was built in the 1880s as a private chapel for Romania’s first royal couple: Note that the king and queen still have special seats on the left and right of the church’s 18th century icon kept for them should they ever return.QC-6, Str. Blanari 16, M Universitate.

ST. NICHOLAS STUDENTS’ CHURCH �SFÂNTUL NICOLAE BISERICA STUDENŢILOR� Built in 190509 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II, this very Russian-looking church is topped with seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasmă) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscow’s Kremlin.QC-5, Str. I. Ghica 9, M Universitate.

STRADA LIPSCANI & HANUL CU TEI Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading posts post s in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole area. Ironically, its name and history aside, modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. About two thirds of the way along Str. Lipscani is the Hanul cu Tei, a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a lively pub/restaurant, and an excellent souvenir shop.QC-6, Str. Lipscani, M Universitate.

UNIVERSITATE  The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata Universitatii which are in many ways the entrance to the Old Town were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Romania’s largest insurance company. In front of them are four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the first Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu (a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai Voievod Viteazul  (the first person to unite the three Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician, astronomer and politician who as education minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of the modern Romanian education system). Opposite is the university building   itself, constructed over from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. The central corp of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures sculptures and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever. QC-5, Piata Universitatii, M Universitate. bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Shopping NEW LOCATION

book launches, readings and children’s activities.QB-4, Piata Romana 5, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 315 43 14, www.librariabastilia.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

SALA DALLES Bookshop with a large exhibition space out back that often hosts book and gift fairs.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, M Universitate Universitate.. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

SHOPPING CENTRES AFI PALACE COTROCENI One of Bucharest’s biggest malls, and probably its best, with wit h loads of top brand names and the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller coaster and children’s funfair.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, M Politehnica, www.aficotroceni.ro. www.aficotroceni.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.

BANEASA SHOPPING CITY The largest mall in Bucha30, Pictor Barbu Iscovescu Street 1st  District, 011938 Bucharest  +4021 212 51 71,  +4021 212 51 54 [email protected] www.labibliotheque.ro

Bucharest’s main shopping areas are the shopping centres Bucharest’s and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru and increasingly - Calea Victoriei.

rest. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else look quite small. Just past the old Baneasa airport you can get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana.QŞos. Bucureşti-Ploieşti 42D, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro. www.baneasashoppingcity.ro . Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.

BUCURESTI MALL Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place - when opened opene d in 1999 - was the first mall in the city. Loads of shops, including Marks & Spencer and H&M.QE-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, www.bucurestimall. com.ro.. Open 10:00 - 22:00. com.ro

PROMENADA MALL Opened in October 2013, this is cur-

BOOKSHOPS ANTHONY FROST ENGLISH BOOKSHOP Stocks a good range of fiction and non-fiction, plenty of children’s books, and a decent selection of books about Romania and Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro. www.anthonyfrost.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

CĂRTURESTI Marvellous bookshop, gallery and small cafe, all inside a gorgeous old Bucharest house in the very centre of the city. During the summer, the superb Verona Garden out the back is a good choice for lunch, dinner or Pic tor Arthur Ar thur Verona 1313-15, 15, M Pia just drinks. drinks .QC-5, Str. Pictor ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

rently Bucharest’s most talked-about mall. Featuring the usual mix of top stores, restaurants there is also a rooftop recreation area (pictured below), be low), but no cinema.QCalea Floreasca 246B, MAurel Vlaicu, www.promenada.ro. www.promenada.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

UNIREA SHOPPING CENTRE A good shopping centre in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the first and second floors with electronics and kids’ shops on floors three and four. An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1, M Piata Unirii, www.unireashop.ro www.unireashop.ro.. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

HUMANITAS KRETZULESCU Large bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language books.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, M Universitate, www. libhumanitas.ro.. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, libhumanitas.ro Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

LIBRARIA BASTILIA On Piata Romana, in a huge villa dating from 1913 this is a fine bookshop with a cafe in the attic. Regularly hosts facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Shopping LA BIBLIOTEQUE

BURBERRY

A beauty salon and library, housed in one of the most glorious villas in the city. It sounds as though it shouldn’t really work, but it does, thanks in the main to terrific design and a great community of people and friends that has quickly grown up around the place. It’s popular for book launches and the like. QB-3, Str. Duiliu Zamfirescu 10, tel. (+4) 021 212 51 71/(+4) 0749 77 77 77, www.labibliotheque.ro.. Open 09:00 - 21:00, www.labibliotheque.ro 21:00, Mon 10:00 - 21:00, 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. PW

Burberry has  The legendary British label Burberry  has landed in Bucharest, having opened a flagship store at the Radisson Blu. Blu. QB-4, Str. Luterana 4, tel. (+4) 021 314 14 14, ro.burberry.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.

WINE DIONYSIS Super little place on the edge of the Old Town.

MARKETS Bucharest is home to a number of good markets, most of which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. There There are very good produce markets at Piata Norilor (a short walk from Tineretului  metro   metro station) and Obor  (E-4; see the the feature feature box on page 28). Beyond the produce markets there are a couple of bazaar-type places worth visiting, not least Complex Comercial Rahova, a place that stocks cheap everything. Take tram No. 32 from Piata Unirii to (almost) the end of the line to find it. Then there is Targul VitanBarzesti, which every Sunday morning becomes Bucharest’s biggest and busiest flea market. It’s mayhem. More or less everything you can imagine can be found here, all prices negotiable. Bus No. 123 from Piata Unirii will get you there. Be brave.

SOUVENIRS MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN �PEASANT MUSE� UM� The shop at the Peasant Peasant Museum has an outstanding selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular note are the traditional peasant clothes, as well as the icons and naive art.QB-3, Şos. Kiseleff 3, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

PAIDEIA Wonderful local gifts, including books, posters, greetings cards, objets d’art and even Romanian delicacies, from refined  palinca to gourmet salts and honey.QB-dul Nicolae Balcescu 2-4 (Hotel InterContinental), M Universitate, www.cadouriculturale.ro. www.cadouriculturale.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Centre (Ground Floor).

It’s a wine bar and shop where you can find a fine selection of self-imported wines, tasting them all at one of the big wooden tables before you buy. You can also just pop in for a glass or two, although in our experience once we’ve sat down at this charming place we tend not to get up again until closing time.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, M Piata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 31 00 580. 580. Open 14:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:30.

ETHIC WINE Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife, both of whom really know their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of Moldova.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722 63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro www.ethicwine.ro.. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Mon 15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

THE WINERY OUTLET Bucharest outlet of the excellent Halewood Winery . You will find some of the best wines produced in Romania sold here.QSos. Mihai Bravu 132, tel. (+4) 021 252 10 32, www.halewood.com.ro. www.halewood.com.ro. Open 09:30 - 21:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:30.

VINEXPERT  There is always alway s something wor th spending your money on here, whether its the latest vintage from Cricova, or more prosaic delights such as Unicum (Vinexpert being one of the few places in Romania where we have found said liqueur). Will deliver.QD-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021 327 49 74, 74, www.evinoteca. ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Center (P-ţa Unirii 1).

SECOND CHANCE A wide range of good Romanian

LOCAL DESIGNERS

souvenirs handmade by people from disadvantaged backgrounds.QSos.Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City), tel. (+4) 0726 17 36 43, www.romaniahandmade.ro. handmade .ro. Open 10:00 - 22.00.

For clothes by local designers, check out the huge Ro-

manian Designers Gallery on the second floor of the Cocor Department Store, at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu

SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T T-Shi Shirts rts we’v we’vee seen so far her here, e, com complet pletee with the slogan: ‘Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great.’QC-5, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40, www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

29-33. You will find a wide range of designs by many of Romania’s best designers. Another option is Band of

Creators at (C-5) (C-5) Str. Benjamin Franklin 14 14 (www.bandofcreators.com).  April - May 2015

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Hotels

With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the Cream of the Crop  category, the price bands used refer to the rack rate for a double room.

CREAM OF THE CROP ATHENEE PALACE HILTON Simply put, this has been one of Bucharest’s finest hotels for 100 years. It is a living piece of the city’s history - it dates from 1914 and celebrates its centenary this year - and yet behind its historic facade you will find a most modern place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei . Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and of course this is the home of the English Bar : probably Bucharest’s most famous bar.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. 272 rooms.

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CROWNE PLAZA BUCHAREST Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect of the brand, from first class accommodation to world class facilities. With a renowned reputation for individual and friendly service, the hotel can also offer the greenest setting in the capital, surrounded as it is by beautifully maintained grounds. Can also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining

BUCHAREST MONOPOLY We have long said that this should be the first thing on any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The classic board game has been given a local twist, the streets of London (or whichever other city you are familiar with) replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest property on the board is Rahova, while the most expensive is Bulevardul Primaverii . Found in most good toy shops and hypermarkets, it sells for around 90 lei. 68  Bucharest In Your Pocket

options.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164 rooms.

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EPOQUE Now here’s a hotel we have no problem in recommending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you get, the prices are a steal.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro. 44 rooms.

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GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL Making the very best be st of a wonderful wonderfu l building (which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, today’s Grand Hotel Continental  is   is the result of more than two years of loving renovation and restoration. There’s marble at every turn, though do not think that modern touches are missing, for they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art. For the great location and for a change from the big chains, it’s well worth trying out. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 56, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59 rooms.

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HOWARD JOHNSON GRAND PLAZA BUCHA� REST HOTEL  This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of topname designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the city, coming as it does with complimentary champagne, and the dining opportunities in general here are excellent: there is a wonderful (if expensive) Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. Great views of the city from the upper floors. Note that the Howard Johnson is set to become a Sheraton later this year.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www. hojoplaza.ro. 285 rooms. POTHR6UFL

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Hotels INTERCONTINENTAL Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete with a swimming pool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental  was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning of the 19 1970s. 70s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of whom have been loyal guests for decades.. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great decades views of the city, there is first class dining in the building, and the management is commendably hands-on. The new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, cit y, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms, internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for €35 per day.QC5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 2-4, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest. 257 rooms. POTHR6FLGKDCW

JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTEL  To the south of Casa Poporului the  JW Marriott  occupies   occupies something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharest’s big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the city (we think).QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 401 rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW

NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTRE Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week during the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of staying here.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258 rooms.

LOCAL ART Look out for craft fairs being held at the city’s better museums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. The Peasant Museum hosts regular such fairs, usually once a month. Suvenir de Bucuresti, Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in classic scenes of Bucharest always has a great selection of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei. Galateca on Galateca  on (C-5) Strada C. A. Rosetti is a gallery of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Its shop sells fashion and accessories from a number of top local designers.

PREMIER PALACE South-west of the city centre in the suburb of Ghencea (opposite Steaua Bucharest’s stadium) is the Premier Palace, a luxurious place which offers what is without doubt the best spa in the city (and entrance to which is free for hotel guests). The rest of the hotel is fabulous too, with the big rooms all packed with added extras, right down to the Salvatore Ferragamo cosmetics in the bathroom. Staff are superb and happy to arrange taxis tax is to and from town.QB-dul Ghencea 134, tel. (+4) 031 407 60 00, www.premierpalace.ro. 82 rooms. PTHFLGKDCW

PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER  The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attra attraction ction at this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed, and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre with sauna and massage available.QA-1, P-ta Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. 203 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW

RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass

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amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are

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Hotels equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Seafood .QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. 718 rooms.

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OVER €150 CISMIGIU One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by Vama Veche). In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city, cit y, millions millions have been spent making the hotel look better than at any time in its century-old history. The contemporary rooms - all of which are in fact suites - are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. There’s a fitness centre, wifi throughout, a great breakfast is included and there is even onsite parking. Worth every penny.QC-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. 60 rooms.

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NH BUCHAREST Not located in the most attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with children and babies: the staff make a point of mak-

70  Bucharest In Your Pocket

D-6,, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. ing them feel welcome.QD-6 (+4) 021 300 05 45, ww www.nh-hotels.com. w.nh-hotels.com. 76 rooms.

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MERCURE Romania’ Romania’ss first firs t Mercure hotel opened in early November 2014 in a great location just behind the  Atheneum. The rooms are well-sized, superbly decorated and come with loads of extras, from espresso machines to fluffy bathrobes. And all at a very reasonable price. Free Wifi throughout, and the building itself is an elegant, modern construction with a striking, sublime mural on one side. QB-5, Str. George Enescu 17A, tel. (+4) 0758 58 30 00, www.mercure.com. 114 rooms. PTHFLKW

RAMADA BUCHAREST BUCHARES T PARC  The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park - hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not huge - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured décor and gorgeous, soft cotton cot ton sheets on the beds. Great buffet A-1,, B-dul B-du l Poligrafiei 3-5, breakfastt included in the price.QA-1 breakfas tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. 267 rooms. PHRGKW

RAMADA MAJESTIC Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of Bucharest’s best hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - a real bonus - a

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Hotels

swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestic’s makes it well worth that little bit extra cash.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. ww w.ramadamajestic.ro. 111 111 rooms. ro oms. PTHRU

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RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro.QB-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 30 00, 0 0, www.ramada ww w.ramadaplazabucharest.ro plazabucharest.ro.. 298 rooms.

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€100-150

CAPITAL PLAZA Smart place at the northern edge of the city centre, about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style, with unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good, and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite restaurant too, the 1880.QB-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95 rooms.

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DUKE Now this place is central. A proverbial stone’s throw from Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past. Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers, and there’s free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks for their excellent mattresses.QC-4, B-dul Dacia 33, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 41 86, www. hotelduke.ro. 37 rooms. PRGKW

ANGELO AIRPORTHOTEL BUCHAREST  The hotel

RESIDENCE ARC DE TRIOMPHE Fantastic hotel in

closest to Bucharest’s Otopeni airport. The  Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts , and its bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas. There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete with sauna.  Transport to and from the airpor airportt is complimentary. complimentar y. Great buffet breakfast. QCalea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.com. 177 rooms.

a good area of the capital, offering large, excellent value rooms and super services. There are little touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really care. The wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as is the newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good international cuisine.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/ (+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro. 35 rooms. PTHRLGKDW

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Hotels  The surroundings are leafy leaf y and yet the city’s cit y’s business district is just across the street. There is free wifi at the Caro Golf .QC-1, B-dul Barbu Văcărescu 164A, M Aurel Vlaicu, tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. 188 rooms.

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CHARTER For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about €1 per square metre. Close to the airport this place is perfect if you have an early flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at very low prices, we doubt anyone will be complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19, 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. ww w.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms. PTRLGW

DAN Serving a terrific buffet breakfast (until 11:00) this hotel has long been one of our favourites. Its location a short distance from the city centre is good, and the rooms are well sized, as are the bathrooms: all of which have tubs, not just showers. Good, friendly staff and the kind of homely atmosphere you would expect of a small well-run hotel.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58, www.hoteldan.ro. 15 rooms. PHRULGW

DOUBLETREE BY HILTON Located just off Bulevardul Unirii, the DoubleTree is something of a beacon of glass g lass and steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place offer-

RESIDENCE DOMENII PLAZA A wonderful villa, this place offers real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. It’s a classy place for classy people, basically. All the rooms, studios and apartments are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi, perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation. The food in the restaurant is outstanding.QA-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44, www.residencehotels. com.ro. 33 rooms. PTHRLGKDW

UNDER €100 BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACO A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the decoration that suggests they’ve taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good go od value for money.QC5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, www. hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW

CARO  The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf , a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms, the Caro Parc : one of the best three-stars in the city, and the outstanding value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. 72  Bucharest In Your Pocket

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Hotels

OLD TOWN HOTELS EUROPA ROYALE BUCHAREST  The Europa Europa Royale Royale is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. Literally a stone’s throw from where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside the rooms are big, classy and we found the staff exemplary. QC-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.com. 92 rooms.

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REMBRANDT The Rembrandt Rembrandt is what happens happens when people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs – unsurprisingly – to the same people). Luxurious without overdoing it, expect expec t to find original 1920s 1920s wooden floors and period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute technology.QC-5, Str. Smardan 11, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, www. rembrandt.ro. 16 rooms. PTRUGKW

TANIA�FRANKFURT Thi  Thiss is a crac crackin king g littl littlee pla place ce in the very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the city’s best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy, and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised sleeping area. There’s free internet for guests.QC-6, Str. Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 27 58, www. taniahotel.ro. 13 rooms. PRGKW

ing big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharest’s hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from: one has a covered terrace.QD-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. 87 rooms. PTHRUFLGKDW

GOLDEN TULIP TIMES  This  This,, people, people, is a very good hohotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively small amount of money. All come furnished well with terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries in the city.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16,, www.goldentuliptimes.com. 70 rooms.

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GOLDEN TULIP VICTORIA BUCHAREST Half-way along Calea Victoriei, Victor iei, a pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright and modern in design we think it’s suited best to business travellers looking to get great value for their company’s dollar.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 166, M Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 021 212 212 55 58, ww w.goldentulipbuchar w.goldentulipbucharest.com. est.com. 81 rooms.  PTHRUFLGKW

Z EXECUTIVE BOUTIQUE HOTEL In a building on a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and good bathrooms. The breakfast room is great, and there’s an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets outside.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, M Universitate, tel. (+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.ro. 21 rooms.

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Hotels HELLO HOTELS  Two stars star s never looked so good. For your paltr paltryy amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the place a short walk from the station.QB-4, Calea Grivitei 143, M Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www. hellohotels.ro. 150 rooms. PR6ULGKW

IBIS GARA DE NORD A hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the whole area) was given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago now. Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) ex tra) and all in all a good value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite the station.QA-4, Calea Grivitei Grivi tei 143, M Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 250 rooms. PHR6ULG

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IBIS PALATUL PARLAMEN PARLAMENTULUI TULUI If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking rooms and very good staff.QB-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel. (+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 161 rooms.

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MINERVA It is really hard to knock the Minerva so we will not even try. Having been around so long it is entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice for business people who pay their own bills: you get great ser vice, a good room (a choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central loca tion yet are only asked for a fraction of what the five-star s charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and a goo d spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and massage.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, www.minerva.ro. PHRF

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JEWISH BUCHAREST CHORAL TEMPLE First built in 1857, then rebuilt in 1866 following its destruction in a pogrom, the red-brick Choral Temple has a memorial in front of it that commemorates the Romanian Jews sent to their deaths during the Holocaust. It is a copy of Vienna’s Leopoldstadt-Tempelgasse Great Synagogue. It was rededicated in December 2014 following an eight-year renovation of the fabulous, colourful interior.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 21 96.

HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL Unveiled in 2009, Romania’s rather strange yet moving Holocaust Memorial both remebers those killed by fascism, as well a recognising the country’s role in the genocide of Europe’s Jews.QB-6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str. Ilfov, M Eroilor.

JEWISH HISTORY MUSEUM �HOLY UNION TEMPLE; MUZEUL DE ISTORIE A EVREILOR DIN ROMANIA� Housed in the amazing Holy Union Temple synagogue, constructed in 1836, this building has served as a museum of Jewish history since 1978. A number of separate exhibitions display how the once vibrant Jewish community of Bucharest used to live, while there is also an impressive Jewish liturgical collection, most of which was assembled by Moses Rosen, Romania’s Chief Rabbi from 1964-94. QC-6, Str. Mămulari 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 08 70. Open 09:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.

THE GREAT POLISH SYNAGOGUE & HOLO� CAUST MUSEUM Bucharest’s Great Synagogue, often called the Great Polish Synagogue, was built from 1845 -1846 by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. Rather plain on the outside the interior is an impressive mixture of baroque and rococo styles, and the Great Synagogue is perhaps today the most important Jewish building in the country. The synagogue hosts an exhibition dedicated to Jewish martyrs, and to Moses Rosen, Romania’s Chief Rabbi for 30 years until his death in 1994. Guided tours are available (phone ahead). QC-6, Str. Vasile Adamache 11, MPiata Unirii. Open 08:30 - 15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Morning Prayer: Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat 09:30, Evening Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00.

RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES BUCHAREST NORTH Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous: all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool (in summer). Good lobby bar and fine-dining in the restaurant too.QC-6, Str. Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www.ramadanorth.ro. 232 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDCW 74  Bucharest In Your Pocket

YESHOAH TOVA SYNAGOGUE �SINAGOGA EŞUA TOVA� Located on a busy side street off Bulevardul Magheru, this is in fact Bucharest’s oldest working synagogue, dating from 1827. It is one of just three in Bucharest which still holds regular religious services. QC-4, Str. Tache Ionescu 9, M Piata Romana. Services take place when Sabbath commences on Friday evenings, as well as on Saturdays at 09:00. You can read more about Jewish Bucharest online at: beta.inyourpocket.com/bucharest/features bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Hotels

 VILLAS

Directory

CLEANERS

BUCHAREST BOUTIQUE BOU TIQUE ACCOMMODATION ACCOMMODATION

EGNATE Professional cleaning service: apartments, hous-

An elegant, stylish sty lish villa a short walk from Piata Unirii. There are two rooms, and one enormous apartment. All of the accommodation is immaculately furnished to the highest standards of good taste. It is a real find this place, and one we can’t recommend enough. Impressively all children are free if they share their parents’ room: we wish all Bucharest hotels had this policy. Pets are welcome too, and break fast is included in the price.QC-7, Str. Vitejescu 37, M Tineretului, tel. (+4) 0760 29 66 30, www.bucharest-boutiqueaccommodation.ro. 3 rooms. PT6LW

es, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things such as marble and furniture.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 10, tel. (+4) 0734 11 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, office@ egnate.ro,, www.egnate.ro egnate.ro www.egnate.ro..

VILA 11 Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities and family suites available for backpackers and families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of inside info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Prices from €20-54.QA-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, M Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00, [email protected]. [email protected]. 6 rooms. T6GW

SHORT SHO RT-TER -TERM M RENTAL APART HOMES A range of city-centre apartments, from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa in Baneasa. They have someone on call 24 hours, maid service twice a week and offer a variety of other services. Prices from €50-150.QC-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu 33, bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www. aparthomes.ro. 20 rooms. PTR6GW

GRAND ACC ACCOMMODATION OMMODATION Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for both short and long term rentals. Prices from €30-80/ night.QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 29, tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.for-rent.ro. facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

DENTISTS B.B. CLINIC � GERMAN DENTIST Unquestionably the best dentist in the city. What’s more, you can bring the kids too, as they now have a special room at the Dorobanti locaStr.. Ionescu tion equipped especially for young’uns.QD-6, Str Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, 51, www.germandentist. ro.. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies ro (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.

DRY CLEANERS 5ASECQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236 00 98, www.5asec.ro. www.5asec.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13, tel. (+4) 021 320 99 95; B-dul Alex. Serbanescu 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 891 98 44; Cora Alexandrei, Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel. (+4) 021 776 91 21.

COUNTRY COUNTR Y CLUB CL UB STEJARII COUNTRY CLUB What is unquestionably Romania’s leading country club is just slightly north of Bucharest, in a quiet location just past Ikea and the Baneasa mall. Boasting a superb spa and offering an amazing range of sports (including squash, tennis, a climbing wall, a huge indoor swimming pool and a range of aerobic and martial arts options) they also even have a golf driving range. There are various membership options, from a year to simple weekly or day tickets.QStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0744 33 21 55/(+4) 031 424 70 51, www.stejariicountryclub. ro. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.  April - May 2015

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Directory FOREIGN REPRESENT REPRESENTA ATIONS AUSTRIA

QC-4,

Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021

201 56 124. 124.

BELGIUM QDD-4, 4, B-dul B-d ul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 210 29 69. 69. 50. BULGARIA QB-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 50 00 0 0. CANADA QA-3, Str. Tuberozelor 55. CROATIA QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 36 55. CZECH REPUBLIC QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021 303 92 30. 30.

DENMARK QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 021 300 08 00 00. FINLAND QB-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45. 45. FRANCE QB-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021 303 10 00. 6- 8, tel. (+4) GERMANY QB-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, 021 202 98 30. 30. GREECE QE-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 209 41 70. 70. HUNGARY QC-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel. (+4) 031 620 43 00. 00. IRELAND QB-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310 21 31. 31. 00. ITALY QB-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00. MOLDOVA QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 04 74. 74. NETHERLANDS QB-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4) 021 208 60 30. 30. 00. NORWAY QB-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00. Alexandru andru 23, tel. (+4) (+4) 021 021 308 22 00. 00. POLAND QB-3, Aleea Alex 36. PORTUGAL QB-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36. 70. RUSSIA QB-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70. 71. SERBIA QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211 98 71. 318 10 80. 80. SPAIN QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 SWEDEN QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00. 00. SWITZERLAND QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 1620, tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00. 00. 00. UK QC-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00. 00. USA QB-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.

PHARMACIES HELP NET QC-6, B-dul Unirii 27, 27, tel. (+4) 031 405 04 0 4 59, www.helpnet.ro. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, tel. www.helpnet.ro. (+4) 031 405 04 79 and many other locations. SENSIBLU QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 233 89 61, www.sensiblu.com.. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-5) B-dul N. Balwww.sensiblu.com cescu 7, tel. (+4) 021 305 73 14 and many other locations. l ocations.

MARKET VALUES €1 is currently worth around 4.44 lei. A pint of local beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around 8 lei (€1.82). A McDonald’s Big Mac  costs   costs 9.90 lei (€2.25), while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is 1.20 lei (€0.27). A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14.50 lei (€3.29), and one litre of standard unleaded petrol 6.17 lei (€1.40). A one-trip ticket for public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (€0.29). facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket

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Village Museum

Romanian National Rugby Stadium

 Arc de Triumf 

Romanian Television evision (TVR)

 C                        a                  s                  a                 V                         i c                                 ot                             r                 

 u m f   T r  i u   l d e  c u  l  c  r  A  c e  d e n   i d   i  o   R e s  o n d  o  M    l  l o  c o  l   P  i c

Nonna Mia

Peasant Museum

Geology Museum

Grigore  Antipa Museum

Starlight

Children’s Emergency Hospital

Marshal Garden

Minerva

George Enescu Museum

Duke

Ibis Gara de Nord

Hello

Moxa

Howard Johnson Grand Plaza

Golden Tulip

Yeshoah Tova

Northern Bucharest

Circus Globus

Emergency Hospital tei Bals Institutull Ma Institutu Matei

Piata Obor 

Dan

Central & Southern Bucharest

InterContinental

Rembrandt

Tania

uropa Royale

Unirea

Street register 13 Septembrie, Calea B6 21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5 Academiei, Str. C5 Alecsandri Vasile, Str. B4 Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4 Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4 Aman Theodor, Str. B5 Amman, Str. C3 Amzei, Intr. B4 Apolodor, Str. B6 Argentina, Str. B3 Arghezi Tudor, Str. C5 Atelierului, Str. A4 Atena, Str. B3 Balaban Emil, Str. C4 Balcescu Nicolae, Bd. C5 Baniei, Str. C6 Banului, Str. B5 Baratiei, Str. C6 Batistei, Str. C5 Berna, Str. B3 Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5 Berzei, Str. A4 Biserica Amzei, Str. B4 Biserica Enei, Str. C5 Bitolia, Intr. B3 Blanari, Str. C6 Blanc Louis, Arh., Str. B3 Blanduziei, Str. C5 Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str. C4 Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3 Bratianu I.c., Bd. C6 Brazilia, Str. B3 Brebu, Str. E3 Brezoianu Ion, Str. B5 Brutus M.i., Str. B6 Bruxelles, Str. B3 Budisteanu Constantin, G-ral, Str. B5 Buiestrului, Str. C3 Buzesti, Intr. B4 Buzesti, Piata A4 Buzesti, Str. B4 Buzoiani Iani, Str. C2 Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6 Caderea Bastiliei, Intr. B4 Caderea Bastiliei, Str. B4 Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5 Calin Ion, Erou, Str. C4 Cameliei, Str. A4 Carada Eugeniu, Str. C6 Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4 Caragiale I.l., Str. C5 Caragiale I.l.,intr. C5 Carol I, Bd. D5 Catargiu Lascar, Bd. B4 Cavafii Vechi, Str. C6 Cazzavillan Luigi, Str. B5 Cernat Alexandru, G-ral, Str. A4 Cioranu Mihai, Str. A6 Clucerului, Str. A3 Clunet, Dr., Str. A6 Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str. B4 Coanda Henri, Str. B4 Cobalcescu Grigore, Prof., Str. B5 Coltei, Str. C5 Constantin Daniel, Str. B4 Constitutiei, Piata B6 Conta Vasile, Str. C5 Coposu Corneliu, Bd. C6 Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6

82  Bucharest In Your Pocket

Cornescu, Str. C3 Cotiturii, Str. A5 Covaci, Str. C6 Crisana, Str. A5 Crisului, Str. C6 Cronicarilor, Str. C3 Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4 Dacia, Bd. D4 Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4 David Emmanuel, Str. C4 Davila Carol, Dr., Str A6 Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6 Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt. av., Str B3 Dianei, Str. C5 Doamna Oltea, Str. C3 Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5 Dorobanti, Calea B3 Dorobanti, Piata B3 Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6 Drobeta, Str. C4 Duca Gheorghe, Bd. A4 Dumbrava Rosie, Str. C4 Eforie, Str. C5 Eftimiu Victor, Intr. B5 Elie Radu, Str. B5 Eminescu Mihai, Intr. C4 Eminescu Mihai, Str. D4 Enescu George, Piata B5 Enescu George, Str. B5 Episcopiei, Str. C5 Eroii Sanitari, Bd. A5 Eroilor, Bd. A5 Eroilor, Piata A6 Felix Iacob, Dr., Str. A4 Filipescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Finlanda, Str. B3 Floreasca, Cale C3 Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str. C5 Franceza, Str. C6 Frumoasa, Intr. B4 Frumoasa, Str. B4 Furtuna Stefan, Intr. A5 Gabroveni, Str. C6 Gara De Nord, Piata A4 Gara De Nord, Str. A4 Georgescu George, Str. B6 Ghica Ion, Str. C5 Golescu Dinicu, Bd. A4 Golescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Greceanu Paul, Str. C4 Grigorescu Eremia, Str. C4 Grivitei, Cale B4 Gusti Dimitrie, Str. A5 Gutenberg, Str. B5 Haga, Str. B3 Hagi Moscu Maria, Str. A3 Halelor, Str. C6 Haret Spiru, Str. B5 Hasdeu Iulia, Intr. B4 Hasdeu Iulia, Str. B4 Horatiu, Str. B4 Hristo Botev, Bd. C5 Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4 Icoanei, Str. C4 Ilfov, Str. B6 Iorga Nicolae, Intr. B4 Iorga Nicolae, Str. B4 Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str. A6 Iulian Stefan, Str. A3 Izvor, Str. A6 Justitiei, Str. B6 Kiseleff P.d., Bd. B3 Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5

Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5 Lacatusului, Str. C2 Lacul Tei, Bd. D3 Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4 Lantului, Str. A6 Lascar Vasile, Str. C5 Lazar Gheorghe, Str. B5 Lebedei, Str. A3 Libertatii, Bd. B6 Libertatii, Piata B7 Lipova, Str. A5 Lipscani, Str. C6 Lisabona, Str. B3 Lister, Dr., Str. A6 Londra, Str. B3 Lupu Dionisie, Str. C5 Luterana, Str. B5 Macedoniei, Str. A5 Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5 Magiresti, Str. A4 Maltopol, Str. A4 Mamulari, Str. C6 Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3 Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4 Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5 Masaryk Thomas, Str. C5 Mendeleev D.i., Str. C4 Mexic, Str. B3 Michelet Julles, Str. C4 Micle Veronica, Str. A4 Mihai Voda, Str. B6 Mihalache Ion, Bd. A3 Mihnea Voda, Str. C6 Mille Constantin, Str. B5 Millo Matei, Str. B5 Mincu Ion, Arh., Str. B3 Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6 Miron Costin, Str. A4 Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str. B6 Monetariei, Str. B3 Mosilor, Cale D4 Moxa Mihail, Str. B4 Muresanu Andrei, Str. B3 Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5 Natiunile Unite, Bd. B6 Natiunile Unite, Piata B6 Neculce Ion, Str. A3 Negri Costache, Str. A6 Negruzzi Iacob, Str. A4 Negulescu Stefan, Str. C3 Occidentului, Str. B4 Oslo, Str. B3 Ostasilor, Str. B5 Otetari,str. C5 Paris, Str. B3 Parvan Vasile, Str. B5 Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str. A6 Patriarhiei, Str. C6 Petrescu Camil, Intr. C4 Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4 Piata Amzei, Str. B4 Pitar Mos, Str. C5 Poenaru Bordea, Str. B6 Poiana Narciselor, Str. B5 Politie, Str. B6 Polizu Gheorghe, Str. A4 Polona, Str. C4 Poni Petru, Str. A4 Popa Tatu, Str. B5 Popescu-gopo Ion, Str. A6 Povernei, Str. B4 Praga, Str. B3 Praporgescu David,

G-ral., Str. Pretorienilor, Str. Putul Cu Plopi, Str. Putul Lui Zamfir, Str. Quinet Edgar, Str. Quito, Piata Rabat, Str. Radu Voda, Str. Ramniceanu Naum, Str. Regina Elisabeta, Bd. Regina Maria, Bd. Revolutiei, Piata Rigas, Intr. Roma, Intr. Roma, Str. Romana, Piata Rosetti C.a., Piata Rosetti C.a., Str. Rosetti Maria, Str. Rossini Gioachino, Str. Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. Sapientei, Str. Sarandy Frosa, Str. Scarlatescu, Str. Schitul Magureanu, Bd. Scoala Floreasca, Str. Scoalei, Str. Selari, Intr. Selari, Str. Sepcari, Str. Sevastopol, Intr. Sevastopol, Str. Sfanta Vineri, Str. Sfantul Constantin, Str. Sfantul Elefterie, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, Str. Sfintii Voievozi, Piata Sfintii Voievozi, Str. Slanic, Str. Slatineanu Ion, Str. Slavesti, Str. Smardan, Str. Sofia, Str. Stahi Constantin, Str. Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. Stavropoleos, Str. Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea Stirbei Voda, Intr. Stirbei Voda, Str.  Tirana, Str.  Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea  Tokio, Str.  Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr.  Transilvaniei, Str.  Tudor Stefan, Intr.  Tunari, Str. Unirii, Bd. Unirii, Piata Universitatii, Piata Vacarescu Barbu, Str. Venezuela, Str. Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. Victoriei, Calea Victoriei, Piata Visarion I.c., Str. Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. Vlaicu Aurel, Str. Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. Washington, Str. Witting, Str. Xenopol Alexandru, Str. Zalomit Z. Ion. Str. Zola Emile, Str.

C5 A6 B5 B3 C5 B3 B3 C6 C3 C5 C6 B5 B5 B3 B3 B4 C5 C5 C5 C3 B5 B6 A3 A3 B5 C3 C5 C6 C6 C6 B4 B4 C6 B5 A6 B6 B4 B4 C5 C4 C4 C6 B3 B5 A6 C6 D4 B5 B5 B3 A4 B3 B4 B5 C3 C4 C6 C6 C5 C3 B3 C5 B4 B4 B4 A3 C4 B4 B3 A4 C4 B5 B3

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