Bridal Lingerie - Indian Wear for Indian Bride

BRIDAL LINGERIE Intimate wear for Indian Bride DISSERTATION REPORT Submitted By DHARA GADHVI In partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF DESIGN DEPARTMENT OF DESIGN SPACE BATCH 2013-15 At NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY MUMBAI

Faculty Guide Mr Dhanraj

Bridal Lingerie Intimate wear for Indian Bride By Dhara Gadhvi

Submitted to NIFT in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design Department of Design Space Faculty Guide:........................................ Advisors (if any):........................................

© 2013 National Institute of Fashion Technology I

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLGY MUMBAI Bridal Lingerie Intimate wear for Indian Bride by Dhara Gadhvi M. DES. Batch Submitted by Ms Dhara Gadhvi to NIFT in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design of the National Institute of Fashion Technology at Mumbai and hereby certify that in the judgment of the following members of jury it is worth of acceptance: Name

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Design Space Date:

Abstract The Indian woman of today is bolder when it comes to aspirations. She is now choosy and has started giving importance to lingerie. This has been fostered by the changing social structure. The Indian society is in the midst of a makeover. The western influence is shaping today’s modern women. More and more women are now working, which has increased their disposable income. Women are now not hesitant to spend on lingerie that is comfortable and appealing. This change has also been bolstered by the changing dress codes. The dress codes demand women to select lingerie that shapes their look, which essentially then boosts their confidence. There is special lingerie for every occasion and for different types of outfit. However, amidst this growth in Indian lingerie industry, there is one section or segment that has been neglected. It is the section of bridal intimate lingerie. In fact, the research shows that there is no segment called bridal lingerie available in Indian retail lingerie. Study about the history of lingerie through secondary research clearly directs that lingerie has molded female bodies into variety of shapes, sometimes drawing attention to bust, other periods to hips or waist and eroticism and lingerie has deep connections since centuries Bridal intimate lingerie is lingerie that is sensuous and is meant for special occasions like wedding nights or similarly seductive situation. Giving all together a new segment of lingerie to Indian women, who had no option to have sensuous as well as modest lingerie with Indian elements for their wedding night. Keywords: - Bridal Lingerie, sensuality, culture, Indian market

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Acknowledgement I wish to thank all those who helped me. I would like to thank my mentor Mr Dhanraj without whom, I could not have completed this project. I would also like to thank the people who participated in the interview and helped me gain a better insight into my research.

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Content Chapter No.

Title

Page No.

Chapter-1

Introduction 1.1 Objective 1.2 Significance 1.3 Limitations

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Chapter-2

Research Design and Methodology

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Chapter-3

Review of Literature 3.1 Meaning of Lingerie 3.2 Different Types of Lingerie 3.3 Factors shaping lingerie industry 3.4 Porter’s 5 forces 3.5 Market segment of Indian Lingerie Industry 3.6 The History of Lingerie 3.7 Indian History of Lingerie 3.8 Eroticism and Lingerie

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Chapter-4

Primary Research 4.1 Survey 4.2Interview

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Chapter-5

Result and Analysis 5.1 Design Process 5.2 Design Explorations 5.3 Final Desing 5.4 Conclusion

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Glossary Annexure Bibliography

Introduction

Chapter-1

The Indian lingerie industry, at the moment, is seeing a growth that is unparalleled. It has undergone a transformational change in the past few years due to availability of brands, changing technology, changing consumer behaviour and increased awareness. The Indian lingerie market is growing at a high rate of 24% and is sized at Rs. 56.28 bn. In fact, as will be seen later, a few segments within the industry are growing at staggering rates of over 50%. Lingerie is one of the most understated parts of a woman’s attire. If chosen and worn properly, lingerie can bring out a look in her that she deserves. The Indian woman of today is bolder when it comes to aspirations. She is now choosy and has started giving importance to lingerie. This has been fostered by the changing social structure. The Indian society is in the midst of a makeover. The western influence is shaping today’s modern women. More and more women are now working, which has increased their disposable income. Women are now not hesitant to spend on lingerie that is comfortable and appealing. This change has also been bolstered by the changing dress codes. The dress codes demand women to select lingerie that shapes their look, which essentially then boosts their confidence. However, amidst this growth, there is one section or segment that has been neglected. It is the section of bridal lingerie. In fact, the research shows that there is no segment called bridal lingerie available in Indian retail lingerie. Bridal lingerie is lingerie that is sensuous and is meant for special occasions like weddings, anniversaries, birthdays etc., but is not limited to these occasions and can be used in daily life. Whatever be the reason, women of today are increasingly aware of the concept of bridal lingerie, which is very prevalent in the west, but have not been given the required avenues in the Indian retail space. Most of the Indian women have aspirations to look their best for the mentioned occasions and if the market can’t provide them with the required products, then it is a failure of the lingerie industry. Also, among women, extreme ignorance prevails when they make their lingerie decisions. Being ignorant, most of the women don’t know their correct sizes and buy lingerie that is uncomfortable and unappealing. In fact the ignorance is widespread across the globe. As per a research, 80% of the women in USA wear the wrong bra size while for India, the numbers stand at a disappointing 90%. These are huge numbers and, as will be explained later, the repercussions of this ignorance could be detrimental. So, bearing this in mind, the report details out the proposition to address the needs mentioned.

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1.1 Objective • To understand and study the Indian Lingerie market. • To identify the needs of today’s women. • To establish a dedicated bridal lingerie segment in the Indian lingerie space. 1.2 Significance There is no such segment in Indian Lingerie market which designs lingerie especially for Indian Bride. Indian brides have specific needs which are not available in market. Indian wedding is all about color and glitter and traditions, but these aspects are missing in bridal lingerie. 1.3 Limitation It is limited to particular segment, It will be occasional wear.

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Research Design and Methodology

Chapter-2

The present study documents the Indian lingerie market, products category available in the market, history of Lingerie in Indian and around the world major changes that took place in lingerie designs. Comparison between the western lingerie designs and Indian lingerie designs for special occasion like wedding. The survey is done to know the need of today’s Indian women in the mentioned segment and introduce a new market segment of intimate bridal lingerie in Indian market. The research is divided into three phases. 2.1 Phase-1 Secondary Research Secondary research was done through the review of literature from different sources like articles, books, blogs, videos, etc. This was done to understand the historical backgroung, significance and evolution of lingerie. 2.2 Phase-2 Primary Research Women from age group of 20 to 35 were interviewed. Questionnaire was prepared and online survey was done to know and understand the preferences and opinion regarding lingerie and intimate bridal lingerie.

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Chapter-3

Review of Literature 3.1 Meaning of Lingerie

Lingerie is women’s undergarment and may imply their being fashionable and alluring. Lingerie is made using flexible, stretchy, sheer, or decorative materials like Lycra, nylon, satin, silk, lace and sheer fabric. The word lingerie derives from the French word linge , meaning ‘linen’. So faire le linge comes to mean “do the laundry”. In French the word lingerie applies to all undergarments for either gender. In English it means women’s underwear or nightclothes usage which visually appealing or even erotic clothing. The concept of lingerie as a visually appealing undergarment was developed during the late nineteenth century. Lady Duff-Gordon of Lucile was a pioneer in developing lingerie that freed women from more restrictive corsets. Through the first half of the 20th century, women wore underwear for three primary reasons: to alter their outward shape (first with corset and later with girdles or bras), for hygienic reasons, or for modesty. Before the invention of crinoline, women’s underwear was often very large and bulky. During the late 19th century, corsets became smaller, less bulky and constricting, and were gradually supplanted by the brassiere, first patented in the 20th century by Mary Phelps Jacob. When the First World War broke out, women found themselves filling in men’s work roles, creating a demand for more practical undergarments. Manufacturers began to use lighter and more breathable fabrics. As the 20th century progressed, underwear became smaller and more form fitting. In the 1960s, lingerie manufacturers such as Frederick’s of Hollywood begin to glamorize lingerie. The lingerie industry expanded in the 21st century with designs that doubled as outerwear. The French refer to this as ‘dessous-dessus’ which basically means innerwear as outerwear. 3.2 Different Types of Lingerie Camisole This is a short, loose fitting top that has a length that goes to the waist. It can be worn like a slip underneath a wool sweater, beneath an open jacket, or just as it is with a pair of matching panties.

Figure-1

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Chemises These are short nightgowns that are usually made out of a fairly light material, something frilly and fun.

Figure-2 Baby Doll This is one of the hot lingerie that is actually a really short nightgown that flirts at the top of the hip. It begins with a clasp or a knot at the bust, and the rest of it floats away from the body. Usually, a baby doll is sold with a panty type bottom.

Figure-3

Teddy A teddy is similar to a one-piece bathing suit. It is a combination of underwear and a short top.

Figure-4

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Bustier These are well fitting tops that are fastened at the back and accentuate the bust.

Figure-5 Corsets This is similar to a bustier but is tighter and stronger. It has a boning that goes over the bodice and is laced or hooked in the back. Corsets usually give the wearer an hourglass figure, but they can also be laced loosely and worn as a regular top.

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Kimonos These are robes that are usually worn over revealing types of lingerie. A kimono is used to make the girl feel more comfortable, when she’s walking around with hardly anything on and would want something to cover herself up.

Figure-7

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Thongs Anyone who has watched a teen singer in her music video knows what a thong is. A thong is similar to a G-String but it has a little more fabric going up the back, unlike a GString, which has just that, a string.

Figure-8 Boy Shorts These are tiny shorts that women wear as underwear. They are usually lacy and very cute. If you want to get turned on when your girlfriend wears her lingerie, this would definitely top the list, in a sweet and racy kinda way

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Body stocking The first body stocking recorded to be worn was in the late 1800’s. It is tightly fitted hosiery that covers the whole body. Designs and patterns can vary from simple large holes to intricate patterns.

Figure-10

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3.3 Factors shaping Lingerie Industry The Indian lingerie market, though growing at a tremendous pace, has its gaps. It is at the brink of being the next big thing. According to Mr Nischal Puri, a veteran in the lingerie industry and CEO of Brandis India, the key factors that are going to shape the Indian lingerie industry are: Consumers have shifted in 3 predominant ways: There has been reduced price sensitivity. The women of today emphasize more on comfort and quality. Price has taken a back seat in the minds of women. Women are more appreciative and responsive to branding. Earlier, women were ignorant to brands, but now due to the arrival of international brands and increased awareness, brand names are now gaining importance. Possibly, the concept of brand equity is now shaping the lingerie industry. Lingerie has now become brand and has slipped into the luxury bracket. Women are showing readiness to experiment with new innovative styles and designs. They are more open to the new products that are on offer. So, if new innovative products are made available, women would not hesitate to try it out. Also, according to Crisil research, working women form 15% of the total urban population, which is expected to rise to 20% by 2020. So, the retail spends are going to increase because there is a lot of difference in the way a working woman shops and a non-working woman shops. A working woman’s propensity to spend is 1.3 times greater than that of a non-working woman. Organized retail: Retail has become more organized and is covering up a major part of the unorganized space year on year. The graph below shows the retail consumption (organized and unorganized), which is expected to grow at a compounded rate of 15% the next 5 years from Rs 23 trillion in 2011-12 to Rs 47 trillion in 2016-17. Organized retail sector is expected to grow at an annual average rate of 23 per cent to Rs 4.7 trillion in 2016-17 from Rs 1.7 trillion in 2011-12. This has given consumers far better retail environment and brands can also showcase their products in a better way. In all, a very conducive environment is being created in the retail space for lingerie which is going to make the consumer experience more enriching and friendly. Rising disposable income: The disposable income is rising day by day and more and more women are now employed. Therefore, consumers have enough disposable money to dictate their choices. The graph below shows that the share of households with low income levels has fallen over the years, while the share of those falling in higher income brackets is on the rise. Households with income between Rs 1 lakh and Rs 5 lakh have grown at a CAGR of 9 per cent, while those with income in the range of Rs 5 lakh and Rs 10 lakh have grown at CAGR of 12 per cent between 2001-02 and 2010-11. Likewise households with income over Rs 10 lakh have grown at a CAGR of 15 per cent during the same period.

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Consumer demographic change: The consumer demographic has changed greatly. The consumer segment has become younger and this young segment is more aware and informed. According to Crisil research, the age bracket of 18 to 45 years accounts for a major part of retail spender.

3.4 Porter’s 5 Forces The Porter’s 5 forces model is useful to analyze an industry from all the important aspects. For any entrant to enter an industry it is necessary to analyze it using the Porter’s framework and the Indian lingerie industry is no exception. The five forces analysis is as follows: 1. Threat of new entrants: The India lingerie industry has been flooded with brands in the past few years. The evolution of brands in the Indian lingerie industry can be divided into two parts: International brands and Indian brands. Many international brands have established their footing in the Indian market. The international brands like Triumph and La Senza see India to be a market of huge potential. These brands have already established themselves very well in the market and have occupied a good share. So, the industry could see more international brands entering the Indian market. The Indian market is very lucrative and with the FDI regulations being relaxed, it is a lot easier for brands to make an entry.20% With the arrival of international brands, there are a lot Indian brands that have surfaced in the past few years. Be it the Bwitch brand of Satya Paul or Beyouty brand of Nischal Puri, many indigenous players are seeing it easy to enter the lingerie market. This has been possible due to go the growth that the lingerie market is seeing.. Also, it is easier to launch a brand in the market these days. The capital required to launch a brand can easily be obtained through banks or investors. Launching is just one part; manufacturing can easily be outsourced to plethora of manufacturers. Therefore, the cost of setting up a plant can be avoided. And, since most the market is unorganized, there is enough scope for new brands in the market. “I feel the market is so big that at least 2-3 more brands can be easily accommodated in the space.” Mr. Nischal Puri, CEO, Brandis . Therefore, bearing the above points in minds, it is relatively easier for new entrants to enter the market and launch brands. The barriers to entry are not that strong. However if the entrant wants to set up a manufacturing plant, the barriers to entry are higher. This is because setting up a plant would require a lot of initial capital and infrastructure which might not be readily available. 2. Bargaining power of customers: The Indian lingerie market is evolving and still hasn’t reached its maturity. The customers have not been provided a plethora of options when compared to the west. Earlier, customers did not give much importance to brands, but now customers are becoming brand conscious. With the coming international brands 19

and evolution of Indian brands, the options to the customers have increased. However, when it comes to price, it has been seen that customers have become less price sensitive and give more importance to quality and fitting, and brands ensure this. Also, lingerie has become more of a commodity which is purchased by a customer in every 4 months on an average. And on a commoditized product, customers exercise less bargaining power. Therefore, bearing the above points in mind, the bargaining power of customers is not that high. If they’re given products of good quality, they would happily buy without much concern. 3. Bargaining power of suppliers: As stated earlier, the market is getting flooded with brands. Most of the brands do not have manufacturing plants and they have outsourced manufacturing. So, suppliers to these brands are manufacturers. To these manufacturers, suppliers are the suppliers of raw material. The supplier chain is shown below. Since the customers have become more quality conscious, there is some amount of pressure on brands to provide quality products. This is passed on to the manufacturers in the chain which then passes on to the raw material suppliers. Also, brands are plenty in the market, but the required number of quality manufacturers is not available in the industry. According to one of the manufacturers who were interviewed – “Indian lingerie industry lacks quality manufactures.” Therefore, the bargaining power of suppliers is somewhat low and they would not be able to survive if they lost they lost the business generated by the established brands. 4. Threat of substitutes: Lingerie encompasses a wide range of products. This is an innerwear and as such can’t be substituted by any other product. In fact, if any other product is introduced as an innerwear, it’ll fall under the category of lingerie. However, some people do think that bikini is a substitute to lingerie. But, bikini is very different from lingerie. Lingerie is something that is more personal and can’t be worn in public whereas bikini can be worn in public. Hence, it is not an outright substitute. Therefore, the threat of substitutes is very low. 5. Competitive Rivalry: The competition in the lingerie market is dependent on these four segments and varies. The Economy segment is dominated by the unorganized and local players. As such, brands don’t concentrate much on this segment. This is the largest segment with a market share of 62%. There are a lot of players and the competition is not intense as the customer base is huge and there is hardly any branding. A few brands that are a part of this segment are Daisy Dee, Juliet and Red Rose.

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3.5 Market segments of Indian Lingerie Industry The Middle and Premium segments are dominated by national and organized players. The market share of these two segments is 36%.These two segments are growing at a past pace and customers of this segment are responding to branding activities. Therefore, it is becoming important for companies to establish a name in the market. There are a lot of players in the two segments and competition is pretty intense, but the intensity off-shoots a little due to the huge customer base. A few brands that are a part of these two segments are Daisy Dee, Juliet, Enamor, Lovable, Amante, Beyouty and Marks & Spencer. The Super Premium segment has been dominated mostly by the international brands. The share of this segment is 2%. The international brands have captured this segment very strongly. The biggest competitor in this segment is Triumph. Other competitors in this segment are Bwitch, Marks & Spencer and La Senza.

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3.6 The History of Lingerie Although not much is known about ancient people and their undergarments, certainly it was like any other time in history in that the clothing worn depended largely on one’s social stature. Wealthy or affluent people had greater means to attend to fashion and comfort, where the average person was more likely to wear what was practical and readily available. In Ancient Egypt, women of means would wear linen tunic shaped garments that fitted below the breasts and were held on by a strap that went over the shoulders. Sometimes these tunics were cinched in at the waist in order to form a bit of a waistline. In Ancient Rome, there is evidence found in the artwork of this era that perhaps a wrapped form of a brief or bikini-like garment may have been worn by women, most likely for practical reasons. Garments known as mammillary and fascia, which were basically bands of tight fabric, were worn around the breasts for supportive reasons. These pieces of clothing were hardly sexy as we would consider it today, but they were sometimes worn as outer clothing as well, probably mostly for functional reasons. In these ancient days, the exposure of the female breasts was likely not considered as scandalous or risqué as it would be today. Bodices that pushed the breasts up and out were part of everyday fashion and full bosom exposure was commonplace. These styles can undoubtedly be considered to be some of the very earliest examples of rudimentary intimate apparel that would accentuate and enhance the female form, likely having a very obvious effect on the men at large during the time period. Using fashion and dress to tease and attract men is hardly a new idea; women have obviously been doing this for centuries.

Figure-11

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Middle Ages During the middle Ages, the fashion ideal of the female form changed somewhat and the desired look became far more constrained and sometimes included flattened breasts and very cinched in waistlines. Women would use corsets and other lingerie implements to achieve the look of a ridiculously flat stomach, very narrow waistline and a rigidly flat chest. A linen chemise-like garment was worn underneath clothes, largely for practical purposes and was likely the only garment that would be washed with any frequency. This undergarment would help keep the outer clothing clean and protect the more expensive outer clothing from dirty bodies and provide an extra layer of warmth. This light layer was worn as a layer underneath the tight corsets as well. Many torture devices were invented and used during this early time period, but none so commonly used as the corset. Although not technically designed in order to torture, it’s hard to imagine anything as uncomfortable for a woman to wear as this laced up garment, designed and used as it was in these early days. These early corsets were laced in the back and it usually took another person to lace them extremely tightly in order to cinch in the waistline to its desired tininess. As ridiculous as it may seem, women were known to swoon and faint frequently from having a corset that was laced extremely tight. At the time these fainting spells were often attributed to the females supposed frail and delicate nature, which was hardly actually the case. Having ribs, organs and body parts completely squished to the point of near bodily damage likely caused the fainting spells. In spite of its uncomfortable nature, the corset was a woman’s go-to primary lingerie piece for well over 350 years.

Figure-12

Figure-13

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By the 1500’s, corset use was a mainstay in the female’s lingerie wardrobe and would be in various levels of tightness and structure for many years to come. Catherine de Medici is rumoured to have had strict standards for her ladies in waiting as she herself frowned upon anyone with a thick waist. A corset made of metal known as the “iron corset” has been worn by women during this time period, although it is likely that a corset of this heavy structured nature would have been extremely uncomfortable and would have made any activity of substance very unlikely. This garment is indicative of some of the extremes that women throughout the ages have gone to in order to attain the level of fashion, appearance or sexiness that they considered to be desirable. The French Revolution During the French Revolutionary period around 1789, a brief, but welcome, respite was brought to women when it came to their underwear. Women shunned the stiff corset and rebelled against all symbols of the aristocracy, including their all too conforming underwear. Empire waist dresses that became in vogue during this time period didn't require the cinched in tight waistlines anymore, and for a brief time period in history women could breathe again. Breasts became the focus, however and whatever light ‘un-corset’ was worn underneath gowns and dresses was designed once again, to push the breasts up and out. As time rolled on, it wasn’t long before styles changed and waistlines moved back down to a more natural level, thus requiring resurgence in that most annoying female lingerie device, the corset. By 1825, waistlines were being cinched in again and the traditional hourglass figure was the desired shape coveted by women everywhere. Advances made in the design and production of corsets, including the use of metal eyelets, ensured that women could be tightly laced into them without tearing or ripping the corset itself. The suffering caused by the use of the corset had returned in all its glory and this undergarment’s use would be considered the norm under women’s fashion throughout the 19th century. This century also first introduced the use of stocking, which were likely the predecessors to thigh high hosiery. Garters were attached to corsets and were used to hold up these stockings. The Victorian Age, although considered to be one of the most prim and proper in history, is ironically the age where some of the most classically sexy lingerie pieces have their roots. Corsets, garter belts, stockings, all designed to create and enhance an hourglass figure were commonly used during this somewhat sexually repressed time period. Embroidery, laces and bows were added to the undergarments to make them more decorative as well as beautiful. Some of the first strip tease shows began late during this time period. French dancers created a ruckus when they would show glimpses of their petticoats, garters and stockings during their high-kicking dance numbers. By the beginning of the 20th century, women were becoming more active and participated in many more outdoor activities. This activity and lifestyle required much less

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restrictive underwear. Mary Phelps Jacob invented the first bra in 1913, supposedly made by tying 2 handkerchiefs together. Mary began making her bras for family and friends and by 1914 had patented her design and was marketing her bras throughout the United States. During this time period the corset was ditched, and bloomers were being worn, getting shorter and shorter as well because women were getting more involved in athletics and other active pursuits. The Flapper Era and Beyond By the 1920’s the desired silhouette of a woman’s body dictated by fashion became dramatically different than it had ever been before. Women were striving for a freer, more streamlined, very straight, almost boyish figure. Cami-knickers became a very popular lingerie item during this time period, which are essentially a camisole with longer knickers all sewn into one piece. These cami-knickers were the perfect wardrobe essential to go under the straight, tubular dresses of the 20’s that were designed to de-emphasize the bust line while at the same time having a shockingly shorter hemline compared to the floor length dresses that were the norm twenty years prior. The fifties brought the female hourglass figure back with a big bang. The bra had solidified itself in every woman’s wardrobe and its shape had become quite extreme and quite pointed. The sweater girls of this era, such as Lana Turner and Jane Mansfield made the look of nearly conical breasts, small waists and full hips the desired and coveted look of the day. Panty girdles with garters helped women to cinch in their waistlines and to keep their hosiery in place. Thigh high stockings were very popular and definitely were designed to be both functional as well as sexy look. These garter belts are the definite forerunners to the contemporary as well as very sexy lingerie styles that stem from this look today. The 1960’s brought in with it an era devoted to freedom and non-conformity. Talk of bra-burning and women’s liberation became the war cry of the day. Women’s lingerie followed suit and bras became less structured, softer and often were wireless. Decorative tights took the place of thigh high stockings and garter belts as this type of hosiery was the perfect accompaniment to the miniskirts that were popularized during this decade. The woman’s body was finally fully celebrated for its (mostly) natural shape. 1980’s and 1990’s--Technology hits Lingerie Cleavage became popular again in the 1980’s and women who weren’t lucky enough to be self-endowed, realized quickly that what nature didn’t do, bra technology could. The advent of the Wonderbra and other push up bras would comfortably give women what they wanted, deliciously full cleavage. Plunging necklines that were popular during these decades became very alluring with the ample cleavage and pumped up bosom line created by these fabulous bras. Padded and underwire bras became extremely popular, a trend which continues to this day.

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Lingerie for the Modern Woman It took a long time to get here and in the process, women have been moulded, squished, conformed, flattened, pumped up and pushed out--but today’s woman at last has what she really wants. EVERYTHING! Today’s lingerie is made to be comfortable, sexy, figure enhancing as well as flattering. No matter what your lingerie goals or needs may be, there is a vast array of products in today’s lingerie marketplace that are designed to meet intimate apparel wardrobe needs. Bras come in every imaginable fabrication as well as style and include gel filled, air filled, padded, strapless, backless, as well as convertible and many more. Panties cover a wide range from shapers and granny panties to G-strings and thongs. Other lingerie items are readily available including baby dolls, teddies, chemises and gown. Today’s woman is lucky because she has more lingerie choices available to her than at any other time in history.

3.7 History of Indian Lingerie Although majority of female figures in ancient Indian sculptures are devoid of a blouse, there are several instances of ancient Indian women wearing brassieres. The first historical reference to brassieres in India is found during the rule of king Harshavardhan (1st century) in Kashmir. The half-sleeved tight bodice or kanchuka figures prominently in the literature of the period. From Basavapurana (1237 A.D.), it is learned that kanchukas were worn by young girls as well. The Somanathacharita speaks of an aged harlot who used a special blouse to hold up her drooping breasts. Poet Harihara refers to wearing of tight white clothes (bigidudisi) before throwing of a shawl embroidered with gold over the shoulders. Sewn brassieres and blouses were very much in vogue during the Vijaynagar empire and the cities brimmed with tailors (chippiga) who specialized in tight fitting of garments. Tailored brassieres were popular during the Vijayanagar period, 14th century The Leelavati Prabhanda mentions a kind of brassier prevalent in 10th century. While no pictures or detailed descriptions of it are found, a sculpture of the time has just narrow strip to cover the nipples. Medieval padded brassier In a medieval sculpture from Karnataka, a brassier is sculpted around a deity (shown below) that appears to have been made up of thick cotton. Regularly sewn brassieres of

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cup-like shape are also found, some others appear to be propped up by ornaments. Ornamental Brassier Line drawing based on a temple sculpture. The necklace is disguised as the support to hold up the cups

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Figure-15

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3.8 Eroticism and Lingerie Why does eroticism seem to represent the underlying value of underwear? Eroticism is “… a marked taste for sexual things …sensuality.”Catching a glimpse of a woman’s underwear greatly effects the one who sees it, as if what is invisible is less important than what is visible. What is left to the imagination inspires the senses, because when everything is displayed with no (false) prudery, there is no journey down the tortuous road from the imagination to reality. In fact, according to Magnus Hirschfeld (18681935), only 350 men out of 1000 were attracted by the entirely naked body of the female, whereas 400 preferred the body semi-clothed and 250 preferred it to remain fully clothed. Therefore, for many men, the semi-clothed body is erotic and an object of fantasy. More than ever, in this game of peek-a-boo, women’s underwear has a major role. When seen back to the ladies of the Ancient Regime in France who revealed their petticoats when riding side-saddle or going up stairs, it is clear that certain women’s undergarments were already being displayed. Petticoats had always been the exception in the world of underwear. They were designed to be seen and heard. While other undergarments were simple and modest, petticoats were often decorated and colourful, as they were meant to be seen. The seductive function of the petticoat was to last throughout the 19th century and all efforts were made to attract attention to it. One noticed the rustling first, as it was noticeable to someone listening for it, which could then see frills peeking out from under the skirt. Great interest was taken in this. The discovery of this sound enveloping the object of desire was a part of the eroticism of underwear, as this “man to man” conversation shows: “Take your time to listen to the music of fabrics. This music is at the heart of man’s desire, that desire of which one speaks so little or so badly. ” In fact, man’s desire “of which one speaks so badly” (like woman’s desire, of which one speaks just as badly) is called upon by all the senses and the first of these is hearing, well before sight or touch. Women’s underwear is erotic because it disturbs a man’s senses and assumes a secret allure. It is hidden, can be heard and then seen and felt. After a man has heard petticoats, he imagines what they look like and, with a little luck, he is allowed to look at them; when it is finally revealed, underwear is the last barrier between two bodies. Ultimately, appearing in underwear is an ambiguous way of hiding and showing the body as it simultaneously displays and covers it up. This is why strip-tease is so popular, as the show begins with the object of desire being covered up and then progressively revealed. The striptease started in Paris, France, in the 19th century with “Yvette’s bedtime” but found its name and success in the United States before crossing back over the Atlantic. The striptease owed its success to the way layers were removed and then gradually revealed what was hidden underneath, so maintaining certain suspense for the audience. A young lady removing her clothes went further by making visible something which usually is not. This play of visible and invisible is not only seen in cabaret but also in everyday life. A bra can

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be visible under a blouse, on purpose or otherwise, and briefs or a G-string can be seen under trousers or spotted at the waistline. Some say there is nothing more erotic than this type of furtive look! Furthermore, a woman can choose to wear a muslin or delicate voile top to a party under which she wears a lace bustier, knowing the effect this will have on men’s imagination. Transparency plays a great role in the strategy of hiding and displaying the body, as it can cover physical imperfections and reveal without the shock of complete nudity. In this way, the eroticism of underwear comes from both its appearance and its link with the imagination and fantasy. Sight, of course, is a sense which plays a part in the game of sensuality; the observer notes the female form whose lines are enhanced by underwear. The erotic charge of women’s underwear is also due to the way it accentuates the femininity of the body. The corsetry of the 19th century, for example, meant not only that the sex sirens of the day could be observed but also that the female body’s characteristics were accentuated. The corset really was the garment which remodelled the body the most by lifting the bust, pulling in the waist and rounding the hips. These are the most sensual parts of the female body and the most symbolic of maternity (breast and hips), and they were systematically accentuated. The erotic charge of underwear is also based on the way it underlines the natural differences between men and women. Very often in the history of western societies, undergarments which accentuated certain parts of the body were not acceptable as they shocked the sensibilities of the time. Sometime is needed before new things become acceptable, but as soon as “Mrs Average” realises that something is flattering, a new accessory is here to stay! This was the case with bloomers. Legend has it that they were introduced by Catherine de Medicis who had very slim legs and who used this new garment as a way of showing off her assets. In fact, although they were worn under trousers, the bloomers were often visible and so flattered the shape of the wearer following the well-known principle that if one tries to hide something it is more effective when hinted at than when revealed Eroticism and seduction through which the blue sky could be seen. Sometimes a stronger gust of wind blew against the white washing line and the bloomers shuddered with their legs in the air as if they were trying to get back to their arrangement on the washing line…The bloomers were truly animated and provocative, independent and suggestive. At the end of the 19th century, bloomers were displayed intentionally during dances such as the can-can and the “chahut” and also on the saucy postcards of the 1890s and the beginning of the 20th century. These showed women displaying elaborate bloomers which enlarged their hips and buttocks. The erotic element of women’s underwear was based on the fact that it was secret and, in this way, it enhanced the female form.

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Primary Research

Chapter-4

4.1 Intimate Bridal Lingerie According to mycamila.com’s dictionary, the definition of bridal lingerie is: “Type of bras, bustier, corsets etc. characterized by sensual attributes (sheer fabric, decorative, lacy silhouette) that are worn on wedding nights or for similarly seductive situations.” Women of today are increasingly aware of the concept of bridal lingerie, which is very prevalent in the west, but have not been given the required avenues in the Indian retail space.There is no brand in the Indian retail space that focuses exclusively on bridal lingerie. 4.2 Indian Lingerie Market segment The Indian lingerie market is divided into 4 segments: a) ECONOMY (Rs35.06bn growing at 17%) b) MIDDLE (Rs12bn growing at 22%) c) PREMIUM (Rs8.32bn growing at 32%) d) SUPER PREMIUM (Rs900mn growing at 56%)

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4.3 Brands under these segments • Economy segment This is the largest segment with a market share of 62%. The competition is not intense as the customer base is huge and there is hardly any branding. A few brands that are a part of this segment are Daisy Dee, Juliet and Red Rose. • Middle and Premium segments The market share of these two segments is 36%. The competition is pretty intense. Brands that are a part of these two segments are Daisy Dee, Juliet, Enamor, Lovable, Amante, Marks & Spencer, etc. • Super Premium segment It has been dominated mostly by the international brands. The share of this segment is 2%. The biggest competitor in this segment is Triumph. Other competitors in this segment are Bewitch, Marks & Spencer and La Senza, La Perla, Triumph etc. 4.4 Current Scenario in bridal lingerie in India • Any brands in India does not promote lingerie as bridal lingerie, but online stores sales them under bridal lingerie. Like Amante’s Lacy lingerie is sold under bridal segment on Zivame, an online lingerie store. But it is not promoted as bridal lingerie by Amante. ShopImagine.in is the online store in India which sales bridal lingerie, but the collection does not have any element of Indian Bride, which could differentiate it from regular wear.

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4.5 Survey For Women 1.Are Indian women aware of bridal lingerie? Women of today are more aware and are willing to experiment with new products in the market. One of the questions that were asked in the questionnaire revolved around assessing the awareness level of the respondents. The result is shown in the pie chart. The above pie-chart shows that of the 30 respondents, 73% of the women are aware of bridal lingerie and 27% are not at all aware. So, looking at the numbers, it is suggestive that customers are aware of the concept of bridal lingerie.

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2. Awareness about bridal lingerie available in the market After having assessed the awareness level of the customers, it needed to be assessed if bridal lingerie is available in the market. There is no bridal lingerie segment existing in the Indian lingerie industry. The only thing close to bridal lingerie being sold is lacy lingerie which is essentially lacy work done on lingerie. The pie-chart shows that only 30% of the women think that bridal lingerie is available in the market. The rest, 70%, say that either it is not at all available or they don’t have any idea if it is available.

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3. Do you wear sensuous lingerie? • • • •

Yes I do Sometimes Very rare Not comfortable

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4. Would you prefer having Indian elements in lingerie for your wedding? • Yes • No

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Survey for Men 1.How important is lingerie when you are intimate with your partner? • 1 to 4 • 4 to 7 • 7 to 10

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2. What kind of lingerie would you like your partner to wear? • sexy • Intimate • Comfort wear • Sports wear

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3. Would you like to gift lingerie to your partner or you like surprises? • Gift • Surprise • Both

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Results and Analysis

Chapter-5

5.1 Design Process

The design process starts with the mood board which dipicts the mood of Indian women and her emotions on the wedding day. The next stage is ispiration board, inspirations from old movies has been taken which shows the beauty of Indian women in clothes and jewellry then the exploration of designs and reaching to final design.

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41 5.2 Mood Board

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Design Explorations

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Ideation Elements of wedding dress are used. lacy white Sheer fabric Ribbon

Figure-17

Figure-18

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In India, any auspicious moment is incomplete without the color red. Red has been constant companion of Indian Brides. It is color of life, reminder of the beginning of a new phase in life.

Significance The color red is associated with love and passion. In Indian culture, according to astrology, the planet in charge of marriage, Mars, is red in color. So Brides are asked to wear red during the wedding proceedings since it stands for prosperity and fertility. Gold is the color of prosperity, luxury and purity

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Final Design

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Conclusion From this study it can be concluded that although there is tremendeous growth in Indian lingerie market, specially the super premium segment. The most important segment was not given sufficient importance. There are many options available in market which are specifically for honeymoons but it does not fulfull the need of Indian women. In India new bride would prefer more modest lingerie, if if it is for honeymoon. The survey revealed that modern Indian women are willing to buy intimate lingerie for their wedding night, which have some Indian elements in it as from the day of first shopping everythning is colorful and glittery so why should lingerie not be a part of celebrating wedding. In India the girl is suppose to buy everythning new traditionally she should not take any old clothes alng with her to her new house, so given a choice of lingerie for such special occassion is welcomed by Indian modern women.

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APPENDIX Figure-1: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-2: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-3: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-4: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-5: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-6: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-7: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-8: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-9: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-10: http://www.lovepanky.com/men/how-to-tips-and-guide-formen/the-lingerie-guide-for-men-types-of-lingerie Figure-11: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2653370/Exposinghistory-lingerie-From-waist-whittling-corsets-barely-bras-new-exhibittraces-foundations-womens-underwear.html Figure-12: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2653370/Exposinghistory-lingerie-From-waist-whittling-corsets-barely-bras-new-exhibittraces-foundations-womens-underwear.html Figure-13: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2653370/Exposinghistory-lingerie-From-waist-whittling-corsets-barely-bras-new-exhibittraces-foundations-womens-underwear.html Figure-14: http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/wonderbra.htm Figure-15: http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/wonderbra.htm Figure-16: http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/wonderbra.htm Figure-17: http://www.yandy.com/bridal_lingerie.asp?P=all Figure-18: http://www.yandy.com/bridal_lingerie.asp?P=all

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References Webliography http://womenwewin.blogspot.in/2012/03/ancient-brassieres.html http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/relationships/man-woman/Indian-brideswant-sexy-lingerie/articleshow/45394564.cms http://www.desiblitz.com/content/bridal-lingerie-for-the-asian-woman http://www.kamat.com/kalranga/ancient/wonderbra.htm http://braologie.com/affiliate/ http://www.indianweddingsite.com/ http://www.onlineweddingboutique.com.au/articles_tips-article-wedding_lingerie_what_ to_wear_under_your_wedding_dress http://www.severalfashion.com/2012/invisible-plus-size-thongs-for-women/#.VVJqFPmqqkp http://fashion-bust.com/2014/03/06/bridal-lingerie-collections/ Bibliography Gillian Karoline Newman-A century of Lingerie Chenoune Farid- Hidden Femininity Muriel Barbier and Shazia Boucher- The Story of Lingerie

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