Best Ever Woodworking Project

January 21, 2018 | Author: Marian Niculae | Category: Decorative Arts, Industrial Processes, Crafts, Woodworking, Wood
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To simplify constru ction, the wine rack on page 4 features two tips and four patterns.

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Best-Ever ProJects &Shoo nos Wooth llil9t!$~Jn ld•l•~t lt(VIN BOYll l'lodui,lj.\follll\. to ut\llll' '>lllll" ill }our \hop, o ur \t,lll hulld\ l'\l'l) how-to prult't l i ll tht• \\'00/) \hop, lut.llt•d jll\1 .1 ltw \tt'j)\ lrorn our ullin~. 111 thl\ puhllt.llrort, \.. t 'w ·'''" hi)othllghtt"tl 'IH>Il tip' Ill tolw t' \ It 1- \u Y•Hr pit 1\ up on till' ' ho p ·lt·.u1wd trltk' \\\' rrrtwvuul whlk hulld l11g tlw prtljl'\ 1'. ollld jlr\'jlolflllg lilt' 111\t flit tiOil\, Wht•m ·H·r "''-' torlt.; tolny.tlrto,ldt• r,, tht•) tt•llrl\ o \!t l ,rlld oH·r h o w mudt tlll'y oiJlJllt'd ,rtt• tht• tip' th,rl ll\UIIIJ)olll> o ur projt'd\ With IIW .rdVtlll OJ till' illlt'IIH'I Wl' \ l ,lddt•d mo t~.• woodwurt-tnx lwlp h~ pmtlng lnlorm,rtlw how In pho tm IIHI v ltkm oil I (St•t lmhvidlloll .rrtldt•\ lnr lllorl' dll ollh ) I or "'· It \ ,111 ,rhout J.\lhll olllll' t0 lriM your \IIlli'\\ with lholl IW\1 woodwort.;. IIIJ.: prujnt .


Morlrn Ktmmet Monagmg ldttor Left. An end table Is part of a three table Jet, beglnlng on poge 66. A helpful video showing how to cut the tapered legs with a tablesaw Is noted In the project Instructions.

Nl Ollt'(lur KARl £11UIU P1ojC'< 1 All D•rt•t lo• RAY NlUIIAU(R A\iOottt lur GIUG S£lllRS

AOVlltTISING AND MAitKrTING C II ( A(,Q J) ll N Midli J.U A •Ill II I ~00. Cluc..lgo, II bO~O I Aclvt 111\•1"1 M 11 Jot • JACK CIIAIHIANSLN OllrciiiP'Jlonu Act r 111 111J IIrptr 1'1\t.lllvt' li~A GIHlNWOOO A1\ ' ' ·'"' K( VIN BARRY AtlANTA N•vtol•tf! M£'d1ln-c:l ..l' TODD 811 Rl(

lie IMI lr~n•f Mnn loJct wcen wat'l. While the flnl~h drk", ralw ,, ~1 ,1 '1'1 of wine to tua\t yuur \tKn'\'1 .•


4 5


Add the bases


tut the baw (D) blanks to sl1c. l.ty out t he curved t•dge !Drawing 11wllh a fairing \tick by d rawing ,, llnl' tlhll conne\cmbl}' (1\/H/C) up,lde down, center t he h uf the k•g' by ~.· (Dr•wlng 11. \1ark '>crl'W luc.ttlnm n•ntl•red un the kg">, then drlllwunter· '>unk ,h,lnl\ hole\ in the bJ\l\ (Dl and pilot hnh:' in t h" leg\ IPhoto Bl. {I·or IIR


Wntttn by Lerry Jo h ntton w11h Jeff Mertz Projt' 1 dt~•gn Je ff Mertz Illustration Roxenne LeMoine; Lome Johnso n









r•• & ••

Materials List IINI\It(() \Ill



W IW Yl" I h. f


A legs


B ralls

c· 0

rests bdses

Yl" 1VI." Yl" 21S"

M•tl Qty. w 514" w 4 l

8V." 12"




• •2

,..' I

8'1•" Y,. X 1"

Materials key: M·rmple, W-walnut. Supplies: Spray ad~•~ 18K 1~· Oathe~d wood SCrew\.~· Sl'lf·ldhesN f t 41 Blade: dado ~et.


mortises ~ ... deep, centered

Cuffing Diagram --.... -,,.

0 ~X 3Vi X

.. •






36" Walnut (l bd ft.)



_ _... •.





:C:ftlii~'JIJ..:rJI ... __....,..._.......__.-.,.-




LEG HALF-SIZE PATTERN (4 need ed ) 1;. x S11J X 36" Maple

(l .5 bd ft.) Plane or resaw to the thickness listed In the Materials List.


l eat·Ever Project a and Shop Tfpt


Big News From Forrest

s For Discerning Woodworkers For 64 years, Forrest Manufacturing has been setting the standard for quality and mnovatJon. Our blades deliver smooth, quiet cuts without splmtering, scratching, or tearouts. This is the result of our proprietary manufacturing process, hand straightening, and unique grade of C·4 micrograln carbide. Independent tests rate Forrest blades as 1#1 for providing clean, reliable rip cuts and crosscuts Now Forrest Is once agam outpacing the compet1tlon w1th these four new blades

''Signature Line'' Chop Mm;ter. The blade features redesigned angles, 90 teeth, and a -5° hook to control the feed rate. It comes 1n 10" or 12 ~ diameters and 5/8Nor 1" center holes.

Woodworker I I 48 Tooth Design. This blade has a 20° face hook, a 25° bevel for an easier feed, and a 10" diameter with 1/8" kerf and standard 5/8" bore. Sharp points deliver clean cross gra1n sllcmg with reduced VIbration.

2-Piccc & 4-Piccc Finger Joint Sets have reversible, interlocking ~ ~- - ~

6" blades. Also 1deal for rabbets and grooves. The blades have 24 teeth, a standard 5/8" bore, and make 3/16" and 5/16" cuts or 1/4" and 3/8" cuts.

Thin Kerf Dado'\ for clean-cuttmg of J..

3/16" to 1/4" grooves in thin plywood, as well as In man made materials. Available as a two-piece set with two 24 tooth out• s1de saw blades or as a three-piece set that Includes a 1/16" chipper

• VIsit our website: "Thanks for a great product and courteous service... "

Peter McDonald, Salem WV

We have blades for practically every application, even for dedicated rip and two-sided plywood veneer. We also provide ultra-reliable factory sharpening. Please contact us for more Information. You'll find our friendly, knowledgeable staff ready to assist you.

"Any future blades bought m my cabinet shop will be FORREST blades I only wish I had tried your blades years ago. Thanks lor a great productt•

It's E:L'\V. to Order

Ben 0. Wtlson, CrawfordsVIlle, IN

Chuck Gomendi, Pavillion,WY ·1 really like my Forrest blades, have run others, but nothing performs like a Forrest "

All Forrest blades are made m the U.S.A and come With a 30-day, money-back guarantee. So order in any of these convenient ways: • Vlsft one of our fine-quality dealers or retailers.

Woodworker II

Woodwortt ,, wupk of eveninl-\' and u'iing J flw n.trru\' \I rip\ of maple, dn•rr>• and \\'.1 lmn from your \crap hin. }OU , dwrr>~ .tnd \\,tlnut -.tcx:k hl'l\Wt'n :W .tnd I' thkl.:, lUI -.trip'> tO tlw \\loth'> .llld ~~v.:· h..•ngth '>hown on Drawing 1.


SHOP nP 3 Use up scrap. You con ust scrap stock for this proj«t with dlfftrtnt thlckntssts btcoust you'll plant tM blank too uniform thlckntss ofttrglut·up.


To ensure tight joint'>, prt'(>.lre the \trip'> by Jointmg one f,Ke Jnd till edge and then ripping thlm to the necded width\. l.dgc-glul' the \trip\ with tlw Jointl'd races down In thl• arr.mgt•nwnt \hown on Drawing 1 .tnt! In Photo A. ro 1-.cep the glue-up tltlt, t:cnlu the damping prc~Hare on the blanJ... by IX>\itlonlng ri\l'r block'> under the hlanl.., "' \hown With the glue dry, \Crapl' off \qucczc-out from the\ ol the blank. I hcn pl.ll1l thc top l,tu.• until the hi.111J... I\ flat ,tnd thl' hl.111 1.. h,l\ a unilorm'>'>. 'low turn the hlanl.. mw and plane it to 'ril" thkk. lrlrn the bl.tnkuuh \t(UMl.' .llld tu a flnalll'llgth or _\c;",




Now craft the cutting board C ro\'llllt twenty-four l lf•"-wlt.ll' \tripU(>l'r-\trll); hoard.) To \lmplif)' thl' glue-up, '>' the trips into three ~roup-; of ei~ht pil'Cc\.llluc and damp the pil'Cl\ lncac.h group togct hl•r, •lnd the f ll'>tl'd !Materials List, fillStile'> (.\) on 1he lmiclt• fac..e to receive 1he 'ilde \tile\ (B) !Drawings 1 and 21. ~rom edKe-joined '>lock, wt the I runt/hack panel ((I) to the \i/e\ li'ited (I he parwl\ .~rc..• ~ ' \hortt•r in width and h.'ngth th,lll the openings to allow for liCii\Onal rnovcmc..•nt.) 'I hen cut tttkt.•r cord ("-wide tri m \trip lrnm l'iKh edge. 'land the \ t rip\. ~litl•r-cut thl' long and !.hort trim ptl'.ttl. II nang (\l lor 1hc C\att wldt h o l tht• \i dct:p ac.:nw; the end\ ul th(' front / b,1cl. (lJ) on the i/1\ich l.ltl'\ !Drawing 71 I ht•n cut ,, v.,• grH' v, dt•t•p v~· from the bottom td~t''> of tht• lront/ hat·l. ami \Ide-. IV) to lit the pi)'\\Oe>tl hot tom (\V) \nnd 'mouth Glut• .md clamp till' tr.l) together. \.le.l\un.• lor t•qu.ll d 1.1~un.1 1\ to


verily \quMt'


Time for the lid r dgc jol n ~r.· 'ItO{ k


to form a 17)(4()" b lanl. for the lid ('X). I hen tr\'>lllt and rtp till' lid to thl• llnl.,hcd \lit' ul 1 6~x \9 ~·. U\1ng a v,,• vc-an, drill pilot hniL'' In the lid. Now drl'c the \Ul:\\\

Let's wrap things up \.1nd .1ny .trca-, med it tu 220 grit, nml rL'IllOVl' tlw du\t. With till' wa\l'd l>.llll'r \tillsrl pl.ttt• on thL· p.uu•J, Jnd dnll till' mounting holes [Photo Gj. Rt•mm t• thl• hillgl' ,lfld tape. 'Jow scrl'w-mount thl' hingl' to tht• lid and back cap trim

Wnurn by Owen Duvall ProJ~Cl de~tgn Jeff Mertlt lllu\lr,\liOni. RoiCanne LeMoine; lorna John son

" - - - - - - , - - 3h" d1am.

3" diam.

Cutting Diagram 2~"diam.

I© [@ . ~I 1 ~ x S\l 1C 96" Pint 14 bd ft.J 12 n~tdl 'Plant or rt~w to the thickneu llsttd 1n the Mattrlats list.

3W' dlam.




cl .. O..tht·,ICI wood scr.:ws 18). •sxl • f~·thead wood -.crews (231. •4x1' brass flathead wood screws (24), 1W continuous hinge 36'1ong, ltd stays (1 pr.). 3 ·.3 • bun feet (4) Blade •nd bits: Dado bt.Kie sec~· and h' cove. ~.- round·oom, 14" str from

I" \lOC I-. I h cn for I h e OU IH \e(( iom ( UI four i"'ud ';~t" hoard\ I rom the -.,um.• \toci..I Drawlng 11. Hlp lht• ~W'-wid c l c~ (i\) cent e r \CC I Iom Ill hJ If, U\lll~ .1 W -l..t:rf "'"' biJdc In )OUr t, I htn \Witch to ,, ·,· d,tdo hl.tdL .u td cut a m l'C tlom tn t hc n•ntL'r \l'l l iom IPhoto Dl. llw protruding pot 11om nl the center \elllom form tennm to fit Into the bcnchtup (Jo} ttturthl''l !DrawIng 21. I rim thL' emh to thc lcngt h of 16", rernovl n~ nl.IIL'ria I on I> rmm till' h (D). Photocopy the Key Patterns on 19, ''-lont-: wedgehape. Pair together the front/back and side leg\ (A, B). Noti ng the orlentc.~llon ol the angk•d endo; for each pair !Drawing 21, ld,.>ntlfy the loc.llion (left front, right rear, etc.) and the imide face on each leg to ensure wrrect machining and c.,l

llom (PhotoC j. ( I h is com ctly pm ttlu n \ tlw t'l'lltt.•r o f thl' hisc u1t \lot\ 1'/ "frum

Pl.tce a ~·· thick spacer under your biscuit joiner on the lnJidt face of a side leg (8). Plunge tht slot Into the front or back leg (A}.


the botto m o f the '~P•Ill'r.) \ H,li n U!>i ng the ~pacer, cut the mating \lot-. In the fan• o f the top/ buttolll front oUH.I back r.tll ((', D). Glue, hlscull, .uu l cl.11np the back legs (A/ 1\) to tht.• top rail/cleat



After attaching the back legs (A/ 8) to the rail assemblies, turn the unit over. Glue, biscuit, and clamp the front legs In place.

a\wmhly (C/D/ E/U) and botto m r.11l/ \ he ll ,J\Willbly (C/D/ 1·/11 ) !Drawings 2 .u u l 31 , making \ ttrc that lhe k g\ and top ,,,11/lleat .~tl.. trlmU> to the \lte'> lhted. ( lu emlm' a '>llll~ tIt, we mea !lured bet ween the ll·~~ lor tht• c~.K t l en~th~ of tht• trim. I hen Wt' idulll fled the locilt Iom ot the pkte\ tu t•mure rrecl il'>'>embly.l Cut the \ide \lat\ (1\) ,1nd had, '>\ (K, 1.). l'n a\wmble the top and hut tom hat'!.. trim (J) nnd ha(t.. \lats (I.), layout tht• pMt\ with t ht• f.ICt''> up on,, wmk\ur· f under the''"'' to pml· linn t IH.'Ill 1/~' from the ill\ult• IJn• of t lw trim !Drawing 4, Photo El I . A~.1in min).\ the '>f>•lt er'l, mou1H the \lt.ll' trim (I), n•rltered end to end, tot he 'lldl' ~lat'> (I\).



1 mount tht• h.Kk trlrn/\lat J\\l'lllbly (J/1 ), ,tpply ).\IUe to the i/1\ldc• (notKh.unfered) edge'> of the trim. ( lamp 1he tt'>'>l'mbly In po'>ltion on thl' \helvl n ~ unit, keepln~ tht• lmttom fJle of the top trim and hottum ed~e ul the top lMd. rail ( I>) flmh !Drawing 4, Photo fl. l\ute 1h.ll the I of' face of the bottom trim Ul 1\ '•' proud ol the bottom \ht•lf (II). Mount the \ldl' trlrn{\1.11 iWit•mhllt'' (1/1\) to the unit, pmitioning them on tht• unit in tht• -;ami.' wav J'> to till' bottom \hl'lf (II ), flush with the top f I hen trO'>\tut the lront/b,K t.. and ~Ide trim p1ete\lU length I rom the 'It rip~ to fit \nugl) bl'tween the leg'>. tner hit, radii at the top l'lld'i ol tilh.tpe, ,tnd -,,and ot h. U\lng till' tempiJte, mnr"- the profllt• Refer to Drawing 1 for tlw location of on hoth •·nd'i of the \trc..•tcht.•r ({,) the profill' on the 'iupport\ (JI.). Then ,tlnng hot h cdJ cs, where \hown on Draw· mJrl.. the profile at the bot tom ol ,, '>UP· lng 1. DrJw l one~ to join thl' prolllc-., port on il'> Imide'l', a\ \hown In Photo c. Repo\it ion the template .lt the top of thl' ~oupport on it'i Imide face wath the roundtd top end of the templ.ltl' flush with the ~up­ port'"> end. Mark the




l·rom a '•"·dlr\t nc..•a bit, drill c..ountc..•rhurt•\



.11 t hc..• nM rl-.t•d lot .11 Iom on t ht• t•ndpacer (D) un the removed support. the dowel\ us ncce\sary \O they rot.Hc With the lri.'e end ol the \lretcher 'lupportL-d by J ~··t h•ck sp, rout W round·O\'l'r' t~long the top l'dge' of the assembllt.•\ t~nd on thl' l'utout arl:a at the bottom of thi.' fi.'i.'t, whi.'rt• 'lhown I hl'n using ,, hi" For~tner hit, drill V.." di.'cp counti.'rbort''l on the out\ldl? fatl.' of thl' 'luppurt\, ''hcrt '>hm' n. Du not drill the courHt:r\unk 'lhant.. hult'l in thl' countl?rhorc\ untillndi.ller\ (I)) with the 'luppom (1·.) during glul.' up, cut two I "'" long ph.•n·'> I rom a "• dowel. lmert ,, dowl?l (no j.~lue) Into tht• hole In the tup of i.'ilCh 'iliJliXHt ( llw l'Xtra I" ,IIIOW'I you to pull till' tlm,i.'h out of the huh.• ,liter t hl' j.!llll' I polyurtthane.) lo llnl'>h the pine doll cr.1dle, apply two t(>.lt\ of primer, sanding hetwcen cnt~t s to 220 grit I hen apply two coat'l of ,1 pJint of your (.holce (We U\l'd . AdJust the blatle ht•lght, If ncce~sary, to .~ehieve a good fit. Now trim tltc tenon\ on the rail\. 1,.. Makc four cupic'l ol the I combined wat r,all (B) and c;cat-support (I·> lull-'>ill' half pattern'> on P"S'' .JO. ~et two of the cople'> ,1\tdl lor,, scat support. Dut out ,lfld c,pray-adhere the rl'maanlng copil\ to,, '>t'tkk to th~\l' point (\),

w in thl' mort i w'>.) Hl:Jll'e2 ~"~talnlcu steel flathead sc:rews1121. r8>.

(.,Jlll' .111tl d.unp the -.upporh (I·) bct\\l'l'll thl lront/bttlk r.tlb {I)J, dll'l J.. lo t -;qu.~re. lhl'll drill wun h.'r\unJ.. \trl'W hole-. through tlw r.tllo,, centered In t hdr dadol '· .tnd in thl' 'llfl· port\, '"herl' \hm' n l>riH• thl' \Cfl\\' \, (V\e buu~ht the \tJillll'\\·\llel 'ICrl'W'> tor our pmjl'tl trom to.tdel'iy\. ( ,o to mdl'l'I}\. "' 'htm n In Photo D. I hen drill wuntl'r,unJ.. '>crt w hull\ through t hl' '''''' .111d an to the Irunt/ h), whl.'rl' '>hown on Orawlng2, and drin• lhl' ..crew\



------ - ~-----------.:__ ®

Center of [email protected]~





(shown w it hout tenon)


Position tlw center wat 'llat"> (II ) on the benc h frame. inserting

!t~"-t hkk


(not hardboard) between the m and the front/bad. ~t'.ll'> (G). Cente r the cat ~lal'> 'lo tht•y overhang the scat rallc; (B) W at c.1ch e nd. Make any .tdlustmcnts nel'dl!d fo r uniform spacing. 'Jhen d1lll wunter'lunl.. screw ho lem outdoor


SHOPTIPS 29, 30, 31 & 32 Softwood savvy times 4


e Avoid sapwood . It's generally not decay resistant. Almost alwcly~ It appear~ as t he lighter matenal in a g1vcn piece of lumber, as shown at nght e Use quarter sawn lumber. Quartersawn wood resists warp1ng better than flawsawn lumber. Also, quartersawn wood expands and contracts across Its width only about half as much as flatsawn lumber (See the examples at right.) Although such wood can somet1mes be diff1cult to fmd, you can usually create It by buy1ng w1de boards (more than twice .1s w1de as you need) and cutting out the unstable pith wood center (the innermost rings). e loo k for tight-grain lumber. Such dense pieces are more stable, making them less prone to cracking, cupping, warping, and shelling (see next tip) than wide-grain stock. See photo~ at right. • Place h o r izon tal boards crown up. If you can't avoid flatsawn (also called plainsawn) lumber, placing the crown up will help shed water c1nd reduce the effects of shelling. Shelling occurs when the bands of earlywood (lighter wood grain) and latewood {darker wood grain) separate. It occurs on the pith s1de of a board rather than the bark (crown) side. See the photo at nght for reference


Sapwood, seen here as the lighter portions of this board, offers the least resis tance to d ecay. It bo rders the d arker heart wood.


A flat sawn board (top) expands t wice as much across Its width as a quartersawn one, leading to less stability.


Crown (bark side)

Choose tlghter·g raln wood (bottom) over wider-grain material fo r maximum stability.

lest-Ever Projects and Sho p Tips 2011

Fully·indexed, searchable and printable. Weekend Woodworkmg Projects (former sister magazine of WOOD) focused on beautiful projects that could be built with a minimal investment in time, tools, and materials. All projects were built and proven in the WOOD workshop, so you know you can rely on the plans. Back issues of Weekend Woodworking Projects are nearly impossible to find anywhere, but this disc _.r-l\\~ ~ makes all of these projects available to you once again at a SUr-: utloft\ ~ price of only 15 cents per plan!



See more of the projects on this disc and order our own copy at w m zine.c m/W k ndC Or order by phone: 888·636-4478 ADmPST1210


Solid wood and simple moldings make a fitting home for books and collectibles.


lest·IY•r Projects and Shop Tips 2011

ou'llluw I Ill' I rJthtaonJI \I vllng clllll rto-nurl'll.'nw comtruc:tlon of thl\ proj~t. t. lb lwlp 'IJH:cu the hookt.a'>e through your '>hop, wt.•'\'e \mm:eu nMII· urdt.·r feet. But, ..twulu }'Uu \hllll to turn vour own l~l:t, \\e\·e ant.luul:d a Iull·'>a/e JMllcrrl un fiiiSt' -17. You c:.lll gaw the huok!>hell ,, touch ot >·our own p~r'loaMI '>lyle by \Imply choosing .a dlttcrcnt loot and routing .a dltlcrl:nt prolllt.• on the IJn•·fraam \till:\. (Sec Jlcl,o,:,· 47 fur J lew opt ron\.)


'lllpport hull• t.enll:r~ whert.• dlml:miullt.'(.l, .aml u\lng .a '•' brad-poant hit with a depth 'ltop, drill '· "·dl'ep hole\. llnl'lh·.,anu tht.• \Ide!> \mouth .111d c:ut tlwm to tht.• '>iLl:\ ll'ltt.•d on lht.• Materials List. With ,, d.tdo hl.ade Ill your t.tblc\,tW, I..Ul ' •" r.ahht.•l\ • • tllep in till' enth ot tht.• \Ide\ ( \), whl:rl ~huwn on Drawing 1 'I hen cut .a • rJhhct • dt.•t.·p .along taL h i mlde k t.·dge Now l.t't out Ih{' 'illl'll


Drill angled screw holes lt11" from the ends of the top and bottom (8) Into the sides (A). Then drive the screws.

PROJ~_GHTS Overall dimensions: 35W' wide)( 12¥.." deep)( high For the bot~rd feet of lumber and other •tems needed lo build thts proJect, see page 46.


...- -ax 2" FH. wood screw ~'u"


shank hole, drilled at o angle and countersunk


D siDE (In side face shown)

'•" rabbet ' it deep



'•" rabbet ~·deep

'""deep 10~·

r F

1·.- stopped choJmfers


'j ,..,. from tmd~ s "deep



'•" rabbet I" deep


• • •

118 Oat wcl~her .tl8 x 1-N" panhead ~rew woodmogotln•.com

- •a x 1


FH wood screw



'4" Roman







li&~ HLHc trieve the cap (( ). < hud. a •,4 ltomJn ogl'l' hit into }OUr tablemounted muter. I hen rout tht• profllt• 'thown o n Drawing lb along the enth •ultl front t•dge. lln l'lh-'l.llld the cJp and glut• and clamp it to tlw top (ll), flu'>h with the IMck t' ( I ) to \Ill'. ro rout the \topped t h.un fer~. whl'rl' 'lhown on Drawing 2, \l'l' Sho p Tip 33 />elaw. (,1ue and tlamp the 'itlll''l (r) to tht• \tdes (A), kw ping thl' mmide cdRc~ flmh . Check tht• dhtJIKl' hl'twecn tht• \ llll''>, Jnd lU I the rail ((;) to \lte. l'ht•n glut• .tnd c lamp tht• r.111 to tlw top ( 1\) Flnl'ih-'iand th1.• \tile., and rail l·or the cove (H), c ut a r~x2\.: )( i6' blank ami plant it w -r" thkk. ( hut k •' ~· covl' hit Into your 1.1hll• mountl'd

6 7


router and rout o ne ed~ow I tht• hiJnk. Do not dt flmh, where o,hown on Drawing 2d. Cut tht• h.1d.. ( I ) to \Itt', finlo;h- from it. Miter-c ut one \trip to lt•ngth for the fro nt (."()Vl' ( k. ) and glue and clamp it to the front of the haw panel Ul, wtu~rl' 'lhown on Drawing 3 . ry-flt and trim them to length In the rs

dlam screw buml)t'r (bottom btn only)

(,Juc, hl\t.ult, and ciJrnp tngl'thl•r thc..• dt\ idl'r\ ( \) and top/hottorn (( ) for t.'.lhortl'r than the bottom\ ( \ hown In Step 2. '\). l>rlll pilot hole' for l.t 'ltcnin~ the t umhuttom, wlwrl' '>llOwn on DrawIng 1, ,t nd -.crl'W lhl'lll Ill plan•. l'or a hanglll~ fralll l', f,l\ll'll ,,.,,,wtooth hanger tu thl' tup rail ,, pi~:u• of \i nglt• 'itrt•ngth gl. For the best appeclrance, select boards with closely spaced .mnutll growth nngs The photos at fight show an ordinary fl.ttsawn Douglas fir l x4


Materials key: F-Dovgl,u f1r, W walnut. H tt."'mperfd hardboard. Supplies: Black pennantnt felt lop mar~Pr, SPfilY adhesive, double faced tape. •lxJl• braSi Oathead wood ~r~. •6llc:mountcd router ami a pu'lhblotlo.. for .,,,fety and chip-out avoidance to rout the crHh and then the I ront edgt• of the p.trh, whe tl' '>hown on Drawing 2. \)t~nd tIll' top .111d bottom \ttH>ot h. llwn glul' and damp them to the caw, flu\h t'. \lfart... ,, c-entt'IJJint tor a I" linger hole In the b.ICI-.., \\here dlmcmloncd on Drawing 2. l'>lllH a t• For\tncr bit In you r drill pre"


7 8

,11\d t1 to prcn•nttcar-uut, drill till' hull'. Now ~and thl' hat 1-.., it.e) I'>



II!JoOORKNOB LOCATION (Outside f ace shown) ---:=:::;:::::::~


ralb (II), n•ntcr (I) to I ted. ~hiVC you r tutoff) lor

the mal...tng tc)t tenon).


hown 111 Photo B. lh!'I.IW ·' ~ 4x i2" pil'll' of hcd 'iiZC of 7x71 Y••·'.) Fdgc-glue t ht• pie, plam• the panel to 1A" thick to flt the: groove'\ in the \lllco; ((,) and railo; (I I, 1). Cut the J"Mfltnc>oth to 220 grit.

1o pmition thl' center rail (I) in thry"'"'''mhk thl' \tile\, r.tll\ (II, 1), and Jl.lnd UJ, .11l~nlng lhL' m.trl..\ on the CL'Il• IL'r rail .1ml \till·'· Verify till' part\ fit tog~th~r correl tly. 'I hl' n glm• .tnd cl.unp t h~ door, a\ 'lhown in Photo C. \lt~r l hl' giuL' dric\, \and thl' door Hout a ' r.tbhct ~ • dt-cp .~round till' top opl'ning or th~ dour un the unult• lor the gla'' Jnd gl,t\'1 \top\ < "->. wh~r~ \hown on Drawing3. ( I h i\ remo\e\ th~ lmld~ lip'> olthc 1~ ~ "g r ome~ In tlw dour.) lo avoid from thi' hlanlo. ,,, l'\plainl'd in til\' flr101" tu lc:n~th to lrl thl' door opCrlllnoth. \and round·O\'Crs on the top corner-; nf thL• ma\l '>tlll'!> (B) and uppt>r lll.l\t 'IJMCer (( }. (.huck a cham fer bll In your t.thiL·-mountL•d routu, .md rout v..· ch.un fl'r.. .tlon~ the cd~t''> nlllll.' I" hole\ amlthl' out\idc edgcs of t hL• m,l\1,1.'\JMLI.'r (l > for t he hoom opL·r.ttlng ''ring, ,, \ ,• hole fot t hL' boom pi\ ot, ,md ,1110t ht•r v ,• hole ,at t ht• I runt tnd of tht• hnnm (Drawing4 j Wht•n drilling thl' front hole, 111\t'rt a ~~··th ack ptL'(l' ot \trap b1.•twc~:n t ht bcxlm \tdl'' (I) tu pn.•\'1.'1\l Lhtp-out. 'I hl.'n m.~rk the..• 1\\0 t.lf>L' rt•d .~ml\,tw .ami ,,, nd tlwm to \lhlpe. '>Crl..'\\ hole~ In four 114"-diamhhort piece~ of W dowel into lour of the hole!), and pre~~ a knob on the end of each onc. Wrap m.a~klng

Center the lazy Susan on the chassis (A), rotate the mast/ holst assembly to uncover the mounting holes, and mark the locations.

16'.t\e J) ,md then to the cha'ic,lc, (A). Cut one 2h"-lonl( .md one 11 ·-tong pll'Cl' of thrc,llk'd rod . ~lldc lht• boom ( D/1/l II I) 1>1..'1 \H·en tIll' Ill 1\t \ldl'\ (B). Slade tin• ton~ rod through the p!\Ot holt.:\ [Drawing 1I \ppl} tiHeJd locker and '•'P nul\. ~lidl' tIll' \hurt rod 1hrough the hull.'\ .11 the I runt l'nd ol 1ht• boom, ,111d .1pplv thread lockl•r and lilt\ you r lll'l'(l\. You'll find the going CJ\) hccauc;c for mmt of the part., In thew proJCt t '1, only the len~th changes from table to table, hut the o;tcp-hy-m•p pron•.,.. rcmalm the .,,unc. Wh.11e' cr grouping you piJn to hulkl, \liVl' time hy millin~ .111 part\ whitt• you hove a machlnr tcd In the M aterials List on pa:.;t 70, 71, or 72 for the t.thkN you're building. If you can't find \olkl '> loci.. I w thicl.., glue up two layer~ of h" 'ltl't to eut thi~ pmcc'>'> for the other end ww (l ); tlll'n mill'r thl.' hac!. row (k.) to fit hl•twcen the two l.'lld t:OVl''>. Once all th~o• CO\C'i arl' cut to k•ngth, glul' them In•[PhotoJ[. I inisiHand thl t.thlc to 220 grit, and .tpply ,, flnbh. (WI.' li'>Cd Old Ma')ll'r\ Dark Mahog.tny, .tnd then hru'>lil'd on t \\O uht Ml'il'>llfl' hl'lw«.:cn till' out'itdl' l'dgco; of the leg' at the front and \Ide of the ltbk l'rep.~rc two 1 :O itC4" hl.tni-'> I" longl·r liMn l'ide\, bot tum, ,and top to \ill (Drawing 3 ). MMI.. thl' nhatching C.l'll' .and door '>ide'l, lOp, ,and bottom to nMint,aln t-~raln continuit > \L'I up your t;ahll',,aw with a lh" d.ado hladL•, and cut d.adul''> .md mhhet\ wiH.'Il' 'lhnwn In thl 'lkil'' (\)..and dour \ldl'\ C() !Drawings 2, 31. < hJngc to ,1 d.ado \ll .Jnd 1.u1 thl' groove' in thl'l,l\l' \ldl''> (I\), caw top ,utd hottom (H), door o,lde'l (( ), .utd dour top .ami hottum (ll) !Drawlngs 2, 31. On thl' ll'ft 'lidl' 1\) .uut ll'ft dour \ith.• (C), Ill) out nMtching murli\l\ to fit the hlnJ.:l'\ !Drawings 1, 2, 31 Ihnat the murli c'l, or lllt t hull '\-\it h .a ll.lnd· \,aw .and ,a ch iwl. Rout a \topp th.m twice as thick as the glued-up pt~nel, to .JIIow for the sJw kerf and plilning of th~ completed panel. !oint the edge that will be the jo1nt hne; then resaw the blank down the center, near r1ght Clue the two hillves together w1th the sawn faces up, tlligning the gr.lln patterns at the JOint hne, for right . After the glue dnes, plane the panel to thickness, and trim 1t to f1n1shed s1ze 1f n cded, keeping the joint hn centered on the panel's width.

Mark a line down the center of one edge. Cut carefully to minimize cle~nup of the sawn faces th1t could change the pattern m1tch.


W rab~t




7' •"x

Open the resawn blank like a book. Align the grain pattern 1cross the joint line, and glue the two halves together.



,... lltlllet, centered

' · notch " deep


Bh1\ (I) to ~hapc (Drawing 4) Dry-Cit the rlng·hnldcr \ldt.•\, tup (I I), Jnd tront (J) tugetht.•r, .uul CUI I ht.• \Upport ( K) to wid I h to fit h\'lwecn the top and front Appl}' \\OOdwurkcr'\ glue to thc top cdHl'\ of t hl' rl ng-huld t.•r \ldl'\ ( I ) and cre w-. )Dra wing 1). 1:or the #8 su cw'l, d rill Yn" \han!.. h o les and Vr.t" pilo t h o le'>. Drill countcrbo rc'i ~" d eep. (!>ce Shop Tip s 54 and ss o n 1h e /1('>.1 pa:.wfor a pair o f tlmc-s.wing tool'!.) Drill and d rive both bac k \C rew~ fir'lt , the n rcpo~lli on thc clamp to add the front 'i fence for the cut you 1ntend to make. Attach a piece of 14 • hardboard to your tablesilw top w1th clamps or double-faced t.,pe Next, raise the blade through the hardboard to the culling height. Then rip your stock to width

Not~:• ~1/llfrl\ llrll'e b,r, ,, 1/IUI\rl ill

111, !' pllelto~ fm tfmill. i \11\,1)" 11\t' lllt• IIJIJ'rtlf'lirl/1! ~afd}' .~llrllrl\ 1dt11 }~II/I /r1hell to clean up overhanging edg ) on solid-wood or vrnt c:r h.lnclmq, then rt"ly on your table\,lW .md rip fence- Make •"' •IUXIII.try fl.' nce 4- 6' 1.111 and cut a rJ>tlCN, .tcf'r\ out '>ide edue 1\ flu,h w1th the outsid of the blade, and make a test cut. Tr1m ofl the end of th bJndmg.


• Loc•te the "wide" teeth f•st . W1th ,m .tdju\table cf11do blc.1dc (sonwtlfll('\ c.tllcd a "wobblrr"), It'\ hard to te-ll which tooth cut\ f.uthtst to the lclt and wh ch cut\ farthest to the right. Find the w1de\t·cuttmg tooth -or teeth, tn the case of the dual-blade adjustable d do shown bc/ow-u~ng a square. Then lab I tiMt tooth's post w1th a pcrmr. Now you c.1n mt>asure frorn that tooth when setting up your cut.

e •

perfect footprint

C.tst 1ron ts softer you might I hink, .md .m uneven floor c c.1n .tctu.11fy tr.unkr 1U wtHp to your tnble~nw top. So, after you'v • found the perfect level ~pot for your saw, rn.tsk off the legs, then spray p.1int around each loot to mark the•r loc.ttloru, ·nchtop Lower and tighten the stop rod agamst the turret stop. You're now ready to rout.




Tape your way to tighter dadoes

Gauge blocks simplify bit setups

AdJuSting a jig or straightedge to widen a dado Jun a hair can create more probl m~ thJn •t solves. Instead, leave your guide In place and add ~tur» of tape •long the router-ba~e edge, as \hown below. That nudges the bit away from the guide when you recut. Four layers of blue p.linter'~ tape adds up to about Yo.t".

(' I


H.we you ever p.tlnstakingly set a btl height, only to ftnd that you needed to return to it later? M king lndrvidual gauge blocks for rall-and·std , raised·pancl, finger-joint, and proflhng btts save~ setup ume. You can rout them from medtum-denstty fiberboard or hardwood, but ultr., htgh molecular.weight (UHMW) polyethylene, shown below, makes ,, more stable block . (Assortment Hl-43291, Sl2, from Woodcraft, 800·22S·11S3 or From stock planed to the same thlckne\) as your pro1 ct paru, cut blanks at leau o on using this template to drtll shelf-support holes, visit woodm g z n com sh llho s.

For precision mounting, photocopy router base Mounting jtgs or subbases onto a router, like the o11e shown 1n Shop Tip 87, requires prccl\e mounting holes. Make that job easter by photocopymg the router b
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