Belgrade In Your Pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BELGRADE April - May 2010

Days of Belgrade The city's largest festival takes to the streets

Fashion Week N°9

www.inyourpocket.com

Football-inspired models and performances for World Cup 2010

Contents

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Belgrade

6

Land on your feet in the Serbian capital

The Basics

7

History

9

Culture & Events

11

Fashion week, film festivals and dinosaurs

Where to stay

21

Business suites to hostel bunks

Restaurants

32

Vegetarians beware!

Cafés

40

Coffee and cigarettes are mandatory in Belgrade The Serbian coat of arms

Nightlife

41

The city that truly never sleeps

What to see

45

Churches, parks museums and more

Mail & Phones

50

Getting around

51

Belgrade and beyond

Shopping

55

Souvenirs and Keepsakes

Business Directory

57

Invest in Belgrade

Lifestyle Directory

59

From Masseurs to Dentists

Sports

61

Maps&Index Index & Street register City centre map City map Country map

63 64 66 67

Springtime in Belgrade

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

4

Foreword While there's never a bad time of year to visit the Serbian capital, spring may very well be first among equals. As the weather warms and the long snowy winter becomes a memory, the non-stop carefree parties for which Belgrade is best known can move out of the subterranean clubs and sheltered VIP rooms where they tend to retreat during the colder months and into the streets, parks and armada splavovi (party boats) that line the banks of the River Sava. Ada Ciganlija (p 61) comes alive in the spring and is ground zero for much of the revelry. The one-time island is also the place to head for those wishing to partake in Belgrade's sports scene, as it not only hosts the annual Sport Fest (p 16), but is also home to a labyrinth of cycling paths, football pitches, basketball and tennis courts, rock climbing walls, a golf course, countless water sports, and just about any other sport activity that can be imagined. Those less active among us have no need to fret however, as April and May are also two of the liveliest months on Belgrade's cultural calendar (p 11). Notable events include the long-running Days of Belgrade (p 12), which is the city's largest festival, one of two annual Fashion Weeks (p 13), and Museum Night (p 15), when over 70 cultural institutions keep their doors open till 2am and offer admission with a single ticket. As always we welcome any and all feedback at [email protected].

Cover story With its numerous hills, rivers, neighbourhoods and suburbs, Belgrade is not the easiest city in the world to get a feel for geographically. One of the most exhilarating ways to solve this problem for first-time visitors is to take in a bird's eye view from the comfort of a hot air balloon. While it's a bit more expensive than the latest edition of Google Earth, it will likely be an unforgettable experience. See page 47 for more details.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Belgrade In Your Pocket Živojina Žujovića 24 11000 Belgrade, Serbia tel. (+38111)38 300 50 tel. (+38111)38 220 22 fax (+38111)38 228 88 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com ©Bg Info Box CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd ISSN 1820-7693 COBISS.SR-ID 147725324

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Europe In Your Pocket

We now publish a record 58 guides and miniguides across 22 European countries, with more than four million In Your Pocket-branded products printed and distributed annually. The latest to join the list was Niš: the capital of southern Serbia and birthplace of Constantine the Great. This year we will also be launching new guides in Den Bosch (the first In Your Pocket in the Netherlands), Venice, Glasgow, Vienna, Kranj, Celje and Bovec, as well as a few other cities we are keeping a secret for now. We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, starting up an IYP. Simply send us an email requesting more info: the address is [email protected].

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Editorial Contributors Biljana Nedeljković Design Boba Jovanović Layout Đorđe Đorđević Research Biljana Nedeljković Photos BG Info Box gallery, Srđan Kalinić Maps Intersistem kartografija, BG Info Box

Text and photos copyright Belgrade In Your Pocket. Maps copyright Bg Info Box. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Copyright notice

Sales & Circulation General Manager Saša Marjanović Sales & Circulation BG Info Box Cover photo Printed by Modriani, Color Pres Published 6 times per year 20,000 copies

The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Editor’s note

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

foreword In Your Pocket Online

Press Box “Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.” The Guardian “You do not even need to pack a guidebook: just pick up an In Your Pocket when you arrive.” Simon Calder The Independent & LBC Radio

In Your Pocket guides have been online, in full, since 1995, and our company has continually been at the cutting edge of internet development. The first travel publisher to offer free PDF guides (back in 2002) you can now download our entire range of travel guidebooks - for free and in full from our website, inyourpocket.com. More than 25,000 PDFs are downloaded each month, while the site as a whole regularly attracts more than 250,000 visitors per month. Facebook & Twitter Become a fan of In Your Pocket on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter, and you can get inside information on what’s happening around the Pocket world, as well as win exclusive prizes - such as the tickets we gave away to the opening of the New Acropolis Museum in Athens. You will also find out first about new guides, new bars, restaurants etc., and our team of Twitterers is also on hand to answer any travel questions. Find us at twitter. com/inyourpocket. Make In Your Pocket better Tell us about your experiences in Pocket cities. A year or so ago In Your Pocket took the interactive plunge and began allowing readers to post comments under our own reviews. The response has been incredible, nowhere more so than in Riga, where the famous rip-off joint Lord Pub has garnered so many comments from angry readers that at one stage earlier this year our system couldn’t cope: we had to reconfigure it to accommodate all the feedback. All of our venues - and most of our features - are now open blogs ready for your comments. If you have something to say on Warsaw’s raunchiest nightlife venues, say it at inyourpocket. com. If you want to flaunt your Cornish nationalist credentials, do it at inyourpocket.com. Our local editors are encouraged to reply to comments and make a point of taking on board what our readers are telling us. While we vet all comments before publication, if you provide a valid email address we usually publish them all. So let rip! The In Your Pocket iPhone app We are working on it. It will be in the iTunes app store by the beginning of summer. Watch this space! belgrade.inyourpocket.com

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times “Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.” The Independent “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.” The Irish Times “With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks.” The Times “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publisher’s website.” Sueddeutsche Zeitung “The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have become a European publishing phenomenon.” International Herald Tribune April - May 2010

5

6

ARRIVING IN BELGRADE By plane

Nikola Tesla Airport is about 18km west of downtown Belgrade, near a place called Surčin. The arrivals hall houses car rentals, an exchange office open 24hrs, several ATMs, and a currency exchange machine in Terminal 1. There is no difference in currency exchange rates between the airport and the city. Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, tel. 267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost & Found airport service, tel. 209 48 54, which will deliver the found luggage to any address in the city. You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. The Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat. 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. To get to the city, you can take a Jat Airways shuttle (200 dinars) whose departures coincide with arrivals of that airline. A public transport bus is also available (the fare price is 60 dinars) and so are taxis. Ignore the pushy taxi drivers accosting travellers at the arrivals hall, because they will rip you off. The best thing to do is call a taxi (ask someone to do it for you) and it will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few minutes. The ride to downtown Belgrade takes about 20 min and the price should not exceed €14 (except on weekends and public holidays, see p. 45 for info on tariffs). Some taxi companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. The number of passengers or amount of luggage should not affect the price of the ride. Some good taxi companies: Lux taxi, tel. (+38111) 303 31 23, Beotaxi, tel. (+38111) 970, Beogradski taxi, tel. (+38111) 9801.

By car

Belgrade lies at the intersection of E-70 and E-75 motorways. Foreign drivers in Serbia need an international driving license, vehicle registration certificate and insurance policy. The valid insurance policies are issued by the signatory countries of the Vehicle Insurance Convention and citizens of other countries are required to buy an insurance policy on entering Serbia. You cannot miss Belgrade, because the motorway runs through the city. The speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l.

By train

Back in the days of the Orient Express, a journey by train was the best way to get to Belgrade. The Central Railway Station dates back to 1884 and is situated in the downtown area. Besides the Central Bus Station, this is probably the only place in town where you should beware of pickpockets and rip off merchants. The station offers exchange offices, ATMs,

Exchange rates (on march 31, 2010.): US$1 = 74.9, €1 = 100.46, UK£1 = 112.2

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Information Centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade - TOB: Nikola Tesla Airport tel. 209 78 28. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00. Central Railway Station B-2, tel. 361 27 32. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Knez Mihailova 6 C-2, tel. 328 18 59. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.

Terazije passageway near the Albania build-

ing C-2, tel. 263 56 22. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. Information Centre of the Tourist Organisation of Serbia: Čika Ljubina 8/1 C-2, tel. 655 71 00. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00..

Street smarts Street - Ulica Square - Trg Boulevard - Bulevar Highway - Autoput

Road - Put Quay - Kej Bridge - Most

a left luggage office, and a tourist information centre. When you leave the station, you will have to fight your way through the line of importuning taxi sharks, waiting in ambush in front of the station building. Ignore them, and if you want a taxi, hail one a little down the street. There is a tram stop outside the station building and line N°2 circles around the very center of the city. This might be best solution if you're looking for a cheap ride. You can purchase your ticket at a kiosk before climbing aboardat a flat price of 42 dinars, or on one of the trams from the driver for 80 dinars. If the prospect of a steep, 300m climb does not seem too daunting, you can walk up Balkanska Street and reach the very centre of the city - Terazije.

By bus

Belgrade has an excellent network of long-distance buses which connects it to all parts of Europe. The Central Bus Station, one of the ugliest structures to be seen when entering the city, lies next to the Central Railway Station, so the same warnings about pickpockets and taxi crooks apply here too. The same goes for the information on how to get to the city centre. The station features exchange offices, ATMs and a left-luggage office. Located across the street, next to a small park, the arrivals area is separated from the station building. You can find a tourist information office at the nearby railway station.

By boat

Market values McDonald’s Big Mac 1kg of beef 10 eggs Loaf of white bread Snickers bar Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket

Tourist information

190din. 530din. 120din. 38din. 46din. 38din. 150din. 42din.

€1.9 €5.3 €1.2 €0.38 €0.46 €0.38 €1.50 €0.42

The Danube River flows through Serbia, providing 588 km of navigable waterway. You can arrive in Belgrade on a Danube cruise boat or your own yacht. Via the Danube River and the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, Belgrade is connected to the North Sea and the Black Sea. The passenger dock of the Belgrade Port, including the international border crossing, is located on the right bank of the Sava River, near Branko Bridge. The dock features an exchange office, ATM, a souvenir shop and a tourist information office. Belgrade Fortress is within walking distance and if you want to go elsewhere in Belgrade the easiest way is to take a taxi. You can either call one (for more info on Belgrade taxis see p. 49) or hail it in the street in front of the dock.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Basics Disabled travellers

The Delta City and Mercator shopping malls offer facilities for people with disabilities. Pedestrian crossings on the main city arteries have sloped kerbs and large intersections in the centre are equipped with sound signalling systems. And that, sadly, is that. Most restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons and hardly any offer toilet facilities to them.

Geography

Serbia takes up an area of 88,361km2. The country borders Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The Midžor peak at Stara planina (Old Mountain) is the highest in Serbia at 2,156m. The Danube flows 588km through the country, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian river is the Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence of the Western Morava (308km) and the Southern Morava (295km). Belgrade itself lies at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube Rivers.

Health

Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are professional and reliable and you won‘t need to worry about their skills if you should become ill. The worrying part of the experience is the poor maintenance of state-run hospitals, which is a consequence of underfunding, and the red tape involved in getting admitted to hospital. If you have any minor health issues, it would be better to visit a private clinic so that you avoid an agonising wait. 

Homosexuality

Public displays of homosexuality are largely unacceptable in Belgrade. If you are gay, you are advised not to be too affectionate in the street, because intolerant onlookers may respond with varying degrees of hostility. There are a few gay clubs in Belgrade, for more info visit www.gay-serbia.com or www.belgrade-gay.com. 

Local laws & Police

Prostitution and drug use are illegal so try and stay away from these potential sources of trouble. Besides, being a foreigner you may not be able to spot plain clothes police officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football matches but that should not cause you any alarm. 

Temperature (celsius) Rainfall (mm)

Climate 100 90 80 70 60 50

The Ušće Business Centre in New Belgrade

Local time

Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving time. When it is noon in Belgrade it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow. 

Money

The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a "Serbian dinar" dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000 and 5,000 dinars. You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange offices dotting the city (they are marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Belgrade will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. The first ATM in southern Europe was installed in Belgrade in the early 80s.You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and parking fees. Throughout the city, there is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable in Belgrade are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced to Belgrade market, and a rather limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it.

Important phone numbers

40 30 20 10 0 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May Jun rain

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Jul

Avg

temperature

Sep

Okt

Nov

Dec

Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 April - May 2010

7

8

Basics On the city’s roads

As a result of a surprisingly small number of bridges, a bypass is currently under construction in Belgrade. This will be most welcome when it has been completed because with a motorway running through the centre almost, there are no normal rush hours. Instead, there are traffic jams on the major interchanges pretty much all day long. Belgraders as a rule drive fast and change lanes abruptly without signalling and they do not suffer slower drivers gladly. A yellow line which marks the right-most lane actually means the lane is reserved for public transport and taxis. Do not come too close to the curb, because some mysterious bandits seem to be operating outside the city centre and targeting manhole lids, so you run the risk of your wheel hitting the hole. In short, if you have little penchant for the Dakar Rally experience, it would be best to abandon the idea of driving round Belgrade. After all, the best way to get to know a city is on foot.

Population

Serbia’s population in 2002, excluding Kosovo and Metohija, came to 7,498,001, Belgrade’s in the same year was 1,576,124. The country’s ethnic make up then, again without considering Kosovo and Metohija, was: Serbs 82,86%, Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniaks 1,82%, Roma 1,44% and others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic as the official script. However the Latin script is also used just as much

Religion

Orthodox Christianity is the major religion in Serbia. The Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religious communities are those of Islam, Catholicism and Judaism.

National holidays 1-2 January - New Year’s Days 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox) 15 February - Statehood Day in Serbia 2-5 April - Easter (Orthodox, from Good Friday to second day of Easter) 1 May - Labour Day 9 May - Victory Day (Commemorative Day)

Smoking

Most Belgraders consider coffee and cigarettes a perfect way to start the day, so it is small wonder that smoking is allowed in all restaurants and cafés. The problem here is how to find a place with a non-smoking area. Smoking is outlawed only in public premises (banks, post offices, hospitals, etc).

Toilets

Public toilets in downtown Belgrade are extremely hard to find. There are none at the Belgrade Fortress and the nearest one is in Kalemegdan Park. The existing ones are fairly decent, free and can be found in large parks. They are open from 07:00 - 23:00. If you need to use  the toilet whilst strolling around the city, you can go to one in a nearby café  or restaurant, or a public garage.

Visas

If you are a citizen of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel, Russia, Japan, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Macedonia, Tunisia, Singapore, Mexico, Bolivia, New Zealand or the Republic of Korea, you can enter Serbia without a visa and can stay in the country for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs C-3, Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. (+381) 11 306 82 68 or Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners) B-3, Savska 35, tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

Safety Belgrade is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part of the city where a girl cannot be out on her own in the middle of the night. There are other hazards that you should be aware of when you are in in the city, though. While you are strolling round the Old Town, beware of the bits and pieces that may fall off the old buildings waiting their turn for restoration. At the same time, you should tread carefully (particularly on Svetogorska, Vlajkovićeva, Palmotićeva and Hilandarska Streets) because irresponsible dog owners hardly ever clean up after their pets, leaving behind a veritable minefield of muck. There are stray dogs too, but they generally mind their own business and don’t cause anyone any bother. 

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

history 7000 BC Neolithic settlement established. 279 BC First mention of Singidunum, the original name of the city. Founded by the Scordisci, a Celtic tribe. 86 AD HQ of the 4th Roman Legion Flavia Felix. 395 The Roman Empire splits into two and Singidunum becomes a part of the Eastern Roman Empire. Strategically located on the northwestern border, it is exposed to diverse cultural influences and is a magnet for every aspiring conqueror. 441-827 Invaded and ravaged successively by Huns, Sarmatians, Goths, Gepidaes, Avars, Slavs, the Byzantine Empire, and Bulgaria. Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans in the 6th century. Slavs embrace Christianity in the 9th century. 878 First mention of the Slavic name of the city - Belgrade. Pope John VIII writes a letter to Bulgarian Prince Boris I Mihail, informing him about the dismissal of Bishop of Belgrade for debauchery. 896-1232 Belgrade is a battleground between rivals - Hungary and the Byzantine Empire, it changes hands eight times. Once seized by Bulgaria and twice ransacked by Crusaders on their way to Jerusalem. 1166 Creating an independent Serbian state, Stefan Nemanja asserts himself as the Grand Prince of Serbs. He's also a founder of the Nemanjić dynasty and crowned King of the Serbs by the Pope. 1219 Serbian Orthodox Church gains independence. 1284 King Stefan Dragutin receives Belgrade from Hungary as a gift - this is the first time that the city passes to Serbian rule. 1346 King Stefan Dušan of the Nemanjić house is crowned Emperor of Serbs and Greeks. Following his demise, the empire dissolves and Serbian noblemen create their own states. 1389 Battle of Kosovo. Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović rallies Serbian noblemen to stand up against Turkish expansion into Europe. Europe celebrates the victory of Christianity because of the death of the Turkish sultan and the Turkish retreat. On the other hand Serbia cannot recover from the defeat as most of its nobility, including Prince Lazar, perish in the battle. He is succeeded by his underage son Stefan Lazarević, who becomes a Turkish vassal. 1403 Despot Stefan Lazarević receives Belgrade from Hungary, rebuilds it and makes it the capital of Serbia. 1427 Following the death of Despot Stefan Lazarević, Hungary reclaims Belgrade. 1440 Sultan Murad II lays siege to Belgrade with 100,000 Turkish soldiers and 200 ships. The city survives the siege following a fierce struggle. 1456 Sultan Mehmed II besieges Belgrade with 150,000 soldiers. The Turks lift the siege when their Sultan is wounded. 1459 The Turks conquer the Serbian capital of Smederevo; which marks the beginning of a five- century long Turkish domination over Serbia. 1521 Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent captures Belgrade with 300,000 soldiers, and deports the entire population to Istanbul. 1688-1791 Belgrade is occupied by Austria and Turkey six times. 1804 Serbian uprising against the Turks started by Đorđe Petrović Karađorđe. 1807 Led by Karađorđe, Serbs liberate Belgrade and make it the capital of Serbia. Karađorđe is subsequently proclaimed a hereditary ruler. He founds the Karađorđević dynasty. 1813 The Turks occupy Belgrade; the uprising is crushed; Karađorđe flees Serbia. 1815 Miloš Obrenović leads the Second Serbian Uprising. Serbia is offered partial autonomy. 1817 Karađorđe is murdered on his return to Serbia, on the orders of Miloš Obrenović. 1830 Turkey grants autonomy to Serbia. Miloš Obrenović is acknowledged as hereditary Prince. He founds the Obrenović dynasty. 1862 The murder of a Serbian boy triggers a clash between Serbian and Turkish soldiers which ends in an international treaty

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

One of Belgrade's first public buses bringing the Turkish control over Belgrade to an end. 1867 The Turks withdraw from Belgrade. The Turkish commander hands over the keys to Belgrade Fortress to Prince Mihailo Obrenović. 1876 Serbian-Turkish war. Serbs liberate southeastern Serbia. 1878 Formal independence of Serbia recognized at the Congress of Berlin. 1882 Kingdom of Serbia proclaimed under King Milan Obrenović. 1903 The May Coup d’Etat. A group of army officers assassinate King Aleksandar Obrenović and Queen Draga Mašin, because their marriage is unacceptable to the public. The house of Obrenović becomes extinct and King Petar I Karađorđević (grandson to Karađorđe) claims the throne. 1912 First Balkan War pits the Balkan League (Serbia, Greece, Montenegro and Bulgaria) against the Ottoman Empire. The Turks are driven out of Kosovo and Metohija, the last occupied part of Serbia. 1913 Second Balkan War waged and won by Serbia against Bulgaria. 1914 Outbreak of World War I. Austro-Hungary shells and captures Belgrade. After the Battle of Cer and Kolubara, the first allied victories in WWI, the Serbian army liberates Belgrade and drives the Austro-Hungarian army out of Serbia. 1915 Germany and Bulgaria enter the war siding with AustroHungary. German and Austro-Hungarian troops occupy Belgrade. This is the beginning of a three-year-long occupation and plunder of the city. The Serbian army retreats under attack across Albania towards Greece and Corfu Island. 1916 Recovered Serbian soldiers join the allied army on the Salonica Front. 1918 With the breakthrough on the Salonica Front, the Serbian army returns to Serbia. In WWI, there were 1,247,000 Serbian casualties, or 28% of the country’s total population. The Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state and Belgrade becomes the capital of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians (later Yugoslavia). 1934 King Aleksandar visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany. During this visit he's assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. 1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis

April - May 2010

9

10

HISTORY (Germany-Italy-Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-year-old Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany bombs Belgrade on 6th April. The King and the Government go to exile. Two Serbian resistance movements - the Chetniks of Draža Mihailović and Tito’s Partisans are born. Yugoslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and the Independent State of Croatia. 1944 Belgrade is repeatedly bombed by the Allies. Tito’s Partisans and the Red Army liberate the city on 20th October. 1945 The human cost of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among Serbs. The monarchy is abolished, the Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed and Josip Broz Tito comes to power. In the post-war period, Belgrade grows rapidly and develops into an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II, is born in Claridges Hotel in London. 1961 The first Conference of Non-Aligned Countries is held in Belgrade. 1968 Student protests are held against social inequities and bureaucracy. Soon after, hundreds of thousands of Belgraders in Nikola Pašić Square protest against the Soviet occupation of Czechoslovakia. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by a ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics and 2 from the Serbian provinces).

Josip Broz Tito Tito (1892-1980) was an enigmatic man who ruled supreme over Yugoslavia for 35 years. His roles included being Secretary General of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia, leader of one of two resistance movements during WW2, life-long president of Yugoslavia and a founder of the Non-Aligned Movement. The German occupation of Serbia and the flight of the King and the government from the country played to his advantage, as he prepared the way for communist rule during the antifascist struggle. In the aftermath of the war, he banned the King from returning to the country but lived his own life regally. A charmer and womaniser, a hedonist of sophisticated tastes, he was a darling to the proletariat, Hollywood stars, communist dictators and the European aristocracy alike. Churchill, who detested communists, happily sipped breakfast bubbly with him.

1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, and, as a consequence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Belgrade for the first time in his life. 1992 The European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia. The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. The UN Security Council imposes an economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its support for the Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia, who want to unite with federal Yugoslavia. 1993 The highest hyperinflation in history - a 500,000,000,000 dinar note is printed in Belgrade. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced. 1995 In the aftermath of the Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia. 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over electoral fraud at local elections. 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. NATO forces bomb Serbia and Belgrade for three months, without the endorsement of the UN Security Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against humanity during the wars of Yugoslavian succession. In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia. 2000 Slobodan Milošević is ousted amid huge protests over electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the US improve. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan. 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on the remaining Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches and monasteries. 2006 The State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist. Serbia is again an independent state. Belgrade is named City of the Future of South Europe by the Financial Times. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians over the status of Kosovo are held. Serbia offers broad autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The international community is divided over this issue. 2008 With the support of the USA and some EU countries, Albanians from Kosovo and the Metohija province of Serbia declare their independence. The international community is still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against it. The Serbian leadership does not want an armed conflict and strives to prevent the secession of its province through diplomatic and political means. Massive protests are staged throughout Serbia. Around 500,000 people gather in Belgrade in peaceful demonstrations and prayer against Kosovan independence, while several hundred hooligans demolish and burn the empty US Embassy building.

Political framework

Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament has 250 seats. MPs are elected for a term of 4 years and the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007 and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current President is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime Minister is Mirko Cvetković. The Democratic Party, together with G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (the deceased Slobodan Milošević’s party) form a governing coalition. The major opposition parties are the Serbian Progressive Party (the single strongest party in Serbia), the Democratic Party of Serbia and Liberal Democratic Party.

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Event Listing Policy Our events listings are free and completely independent of paid-for advertising. If you know of an event that is of interest to an English-speaking audience, and which you would like to be published in our Culture & Events pages, please send details to [email protected] We will always do our best to list all events we recieve.

Walking with Dinosaurs: The Arena Spectacular 9- 11 April 2010 For three nights in early April, dinosaurs will roam the earth again when Walking with Dinosaurs comes to the Belgrade Arena. Based on an award-winning BBC television series of the same name, the nearly 100 minute production includes 15 life sized dinosaurs from ten different species. The show depicts the dinosaurs' evolution, complete with the climatic and tectonic changes that took place, which led to the demise of many species. With almost cinematic realism, walking with dinosaurs has scenes of the interactions between dinosaurs, and the audience sees how carnivorous dinosaurs evolved to walk on two legs, and how the herbivores fended off their more agile predators. A brilliant blend of special effects, escapism, excitement and information, the show is a mustsee for families.

contemporary dance companies, famous choreographers and current productions have all been met with positive critical responses and large audiences, and this year's festival will be larger than ever. More information and a full schedule of performances can be found at www. belgradedancefestival.com.

Zvonko Bogdan: A music stor y throughout the Pannonia

9 April 2010 at 20:00 Opera and Theatre Madlenianum Widely considered the best singer of traditional tambourine music, Zvonko Bogdan, will per form with the Eight Tambourine Players from Petrovaradin (Osam tamburaĹĄa s Petrovaradina) at the Madlenianum Opera and Theatre. The performance will present a musical story of Pannonia, and continue the Madlenianum's cycle of concerts with artists and singers who communicate with the audience. Tickets cost 1,000, 1,500 and 2,000 RSD and more details can be found at www.madlenianum.rs.

7th Belgrade Dance Festival

9-23 April 2010 Now in its seventh year, the Belgrade Dance Festival has already proven itself a worthy addition to the Serbia's legendary festival schedule. Aiming to present the most important trends in the area of contemporary dance, the event has established and confirmed its artistic standard and helped to popularise dance both on a national and regional level. Guest appearances by prominent ballet and

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

BELDOCS 2010

13-20 April Various venues The third edition of the BELDOCS International Documentary Film Festival will present over 50 of th most recent world achievements in the field of feature length documentaries over one week at the Student’s City Cultural Centre, Cinema

April - May 2010

11

12

Culture & Events Balkan and the Yugoslav Film Archives Museum. The schedule includes 15 documentaries that were presented and awarded at prestigious international film festivals like IDFA in Amsterdam and the Berlinale in Berlin. Seven fulllength Serbian documentaries will also have their premieres within the regional competition, and all six films nominated for the 2009 Academy Awards in the category of featurelength documentary will be presented as well. The Festival program also includes presentations, panels, workshops, master classes and well-known lecturers. For more info and a complete schedule visit: www.beldocs.rs.

handing over of the keys to the city to Prince Obrenović (an enlightened monarch who ruled in the 1860s) respectively the festival includes countless different cultural, educational, sports and ceremonial programmes. It is also the occasion of the Belgrade Awards, which sees 15 of the city's residents awarded for their excellence in different fields. For more info see www.danibeograda.org.

O3one Programme for April 2010 Marijana Markoska Antigen 8 - 10 April 2010 The Gift of Love - A Humanitarian Project 12 April 2010

Marija Šerifović

15 April 2010, Belgrade Arena Marija Šrifović is a Serbian singer, and is perhaps best known as the winner of the Eurovision Song Contest in 2007, which she won with the song Molitva. She was also one of the judges on Eurosong, the contest which selected the Irish entry for Eurovision Song Contest in 2008, and a member of the International Jury at Melodifest, which chose the Swedish entry to Eurovision Song Contest 2009.

Heartware (Are we all cyborgs?) Marija Popivoda 13 - 15 April 2010 Exhibition of Photography: Manhattan from Brooklyn by Delch Milan Delčić 16 - 17 April 2010 HOME SWEET HOME Milan Janić & O3ONE 19 - 22 april 2010 Voyage Bleu / Plavo putovanje 26 April - 6 May 2010 Multimedia competition and workshops for students www.o3one.rs

Days of Belgrade

16 - 19 April 2010 Various Venues Days of Belgrade is the city's largest festival and has its roots in a tradition dating all the way back to the 1870s. Held every year between the 16th and 19th of April - two of the most important dates in the history of the city, marking the first mention of the Slavic name Beograd in a written text and the

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Yamato Show - Matsuri Fiesta 17 April 2010 at 20:30, Belgrade Arena The Japanese drumming group "Yamato" was born in Yamato-no-kuni, in 1993 in the Nara prefecture, which is known for many ancient monuments and named as the birthplace of Japanese culture. It just started as a one-off performance at a local festival, but soon thereafter invitations from many places started to pour in and the group now runs "round the world tours" with more than 200 performances a year. The numbers in the members has grown from four to seventeen, with both males and females. The centrepiece of Yamato's production is, of course, Wadaiko drumming. The sound of the drums, made of animal skin and ancient tree, some of which are more than 400 years old, are thought of as the pulse or the Heartbeat (Shin-on) the centre of life and the source of power, which pulsates within your own body. Yamato attempts to create the energy of life which envelops the audience at each show. And what you feel when surrounded by the sound of Wadaiko, brought out by these highly trained bodies, is what Japanese call "Tamashy", which can be translated as soul, spirit, psyche and so on, which is the basic element of life.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

23rd Belgrade Marathon

18 April 2010 The long-running marathon is Serbia's largest traditional sports event, which comprises a 5km fun run, half marathon and full marathon. It is given special coverage by all of the country's major media outlets, and has been declared an event of special importance by the Belgrade City Council. One week prior to the marathon, a shorter children's fun run is held at the Belgrade Zoo, with the highlight being a race around the elephant's cage.

27th Belgrade Fashion Week

19 - 25 April 2010 One of the premier events in the city, Belgrade Fashion Week is organized twice a year (in the middle of April and again at the end of October). With the most important domestic designers and fashion companies, prestigious foreign brands, talented young designers, students from the Faculty of Applied Arts, well-known international designers as well as numerous media in one place, Belgrade Fashion Week is a must attend event. The main organiser of the event is Fashion Studio Click, which has become a major contributor to many of Belgrade's cultural activities thanks to its creative, imaginative and often alternative approach to fashion. The City Assembly of Belgrade and the Ministry of Trade, Tourism and Services also plays a key role in the event. This year's event takes into consideration the 2010 World Cup in South Africa, and designers will present models inspired by football in the opening days of Fashion Week, and urban dance groups will perform football-inspired routines. As in previous years, many important Serbian fashion designers will be participating, including Dragana Ognjenović, Irena Grahovac, Bata Spasojević,Tamara Radivojević, Viktorija Džimrevska, Tijana i Mila Popović, Jovana Marković, Ksenija Marković, the creators of Dressing brand and many others. Darko Kostić will also celebrate 10 years of work by showing his new collection at the end of the Fashion Week. One of the main missions of the event is discovering and promoting young talent in the area of fashion, and many young designers will also have their collections shown. For more information, including a complete schedule, videos and other media see www.belgradefashionweek.com.

April - May 2010

13

14

Culture & Events Guarnerius Art Centre Founded as a non-profit organisation in 2001, the Guanerius Art Centre is the most spectacular chamber music hall in Belgrade. It takes its name from Guaneri, a famous violin maker from Cremona. The centre has already hosted over 600 performances and gives special attention to young and upcoming musicians. We've listed some of the more notable upcoming concerts below, and a full programme can be found on the web at www. guarnerius.rs Trio Andante Wednesday, 21 April 2010 at 20:00 Mari-Liis Pakk, violin (Estonia) Jason Calloway, violoncello (USA) Yoon Chung, piano (Korea) Young musicians with great solo careers, formed a trio in 2003. and performed in the USA, with an exquisite reviews. After a short break, they will reunite as a trio with the concert in Guarnerius, which is also their European debut. Program: Mozart, Schumann, Brahms Chamber Music Concert Of "Dr Vojislav Vučković" Music School Students Thursday, 22 April 2010 at 20:00 Chamber music concert of "Dr Vojislav Vučković" music school students, class of professor Nataša Jovanović Program: Nelk, Williams, Schneider, Hoffmeister, Haydn, Ramo, Tchaikovsky, Chopin, Levin, Beethoven, Perilous, Dvorak

Belgrade fashion week

David Guetta

8 May 2010, Belgrade Arena David Guetta is a French house producer and DJ, who originally began DJing at nightclubs during the 1980s and 1990s. He co-founded the label Gum Productions and released his first album, Just a Little More Love, in 2001. Later, he released Guetta Blaster (2004) and Pop Life (2007). His 2009 album One Love included the hits singles "When Love Takes Over" (featuring Kelly Rowland), and "Sexy Bitch" (featuring Akon), the latter becoming a top five hit in the US. He has worked with a variety of pop artists including Akon, Britney Spears, Chris Willis, Kelly Rowland, Lil' Wayne, Madonna, Kid Cudi, Estelle and will.i.am, and currently working with Shakira. See him live at the Belgrade Arena on May 8th!

Patrik Jablonski, piano (Sweden) Saturday, 24 April 2010 at 20:00 Well-known Swedish pianist is a graduate of the prestigious Royal College of Music in London, and artistic director of the Malar International Music Festival and record label Altara Music Ltd. This will be his debut performance in Guarnerius, but Belgrade audience will see him again in December, when he will accompany Maestro Jovan Kolundžija, who when he plays Brahms's sonatas at the Kolarac Concert Hall. Program: Chopin, Brahms, Liszt Vera Milanković – vocal lyrics Tuesday, 11 May 2010 at 20:00 Ileana Milić, soprano Vera Milanković, piano An Evening With Vera Milanković's Music Composer, pianist and pedagogue Vera Milanković, will present her work - religious and love songs, as well as songs in a traditional manner. Milena Đukić, violin and Uki Ovaskainen, piano (Finland) Thursday, 20 May 2010 at 20:00 Young violinist Milena Đukić, prize winner in many competitions, is a master student at the prestigious London school- Guildhall School of Music and Drama. This is her debut performance in our Centre, with Uki Ovaskainen, awarded contestant in competitions "Isidor Bajić" and ”Haen” (Spain). Program: Marić, Prokofiev, Shimanovsky

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Selling Gallery Belgrade

XIV Festival of Choreographed Miniatures

11 - 15 May 2010 The National Theatre, other venues The Festival of Choreographic Miniatures is an international competition of choreographers with their up to 10-minute choreographies performed for the first time. The Festival program also comprises a review program where national and international artists and performers perform. The mission of the Festival is to promote contemporary dance in the broadest sense and to introduce the current and up-coming choreographic trends to the wider audience. For more info and a complete programme visit www. koreografskeminijature.com.

Good, bad, ugly. Hard Soc 15 April - 3 May 2010

Srđan Đile Marković, Vladimir Markoski and Vladislav Šćepanović are members of the Hard Soc group founded in 1998. Since then they have promoted the idea of socially active art in a very specific way through a project called Aesthetic irrationalism - the paradigm of modern era. Through paintings of large and medium format they present the question of media and its role in making a spectacle out of reality. Starting from there, artists, with the use of conventional media, tend to imply the process Brankica Končarević 5 - 20 May 2010 Brankica Končarević (1974) will present a series of drawings done in the last few years. In them she presents her own sculptural thoughts and replicates the historic paintings of 20th century. The topic is the human body and its anthropological qualities regarding the surroundings of an industrial society. The body as a central motif appears in fragments, and is also recombined into imaginary unities with special meaning to the artist. The relationship between inside and outside, physiological and motorist, still nature and life creates various styles of the painted body. Vesna Perunović 24 May - 11 June 2010 The art of Vesna Perunović (1957) is an interdisciplinary approach that uses drawing, sculpture, video and performance. The artist will, as a part of the Border Stitching project, present space interventions. This project presents the phenomena of exile, borders and cultural nomads. The drawing-installation Frenscape is a 14m long paper with a continuous red line and the repetitive motif resembling knitting. A video animation titled Infinite Wall, connected with this graphic structure of architectural constructions, walls and barriers, will be screened on the central gallery wall.

www.inyourpocket.com belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

15

16

Culture & Events Museum Night 15 May 2010

Belgrade Sport Fest 2010

From 6pm to 2am, over 70 cultural institutions will open their doors to visitors, who can view permanent and temporary exhibitions, as well as numerous concerts, performances and workshops all with a single ticket. This year, the seventh in which Belgrade has participated, organisers have promised that more attention will be paid to quality rather than quantity, and many of the exhibitions and performances will be open to the public for the first time, including many that were popular in other cities during the previous Museum Night. To further increase the user-friendliness of the event, the entire city will be divided into zones, making it easier to plan your route and be able to take in everything you'd like to see. For more info visit www.nocmuzeja.rs.

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

22-23 May Ada Ciganlija lake, Belgrade Since 2005 this celebration of sport has taken place at the end of each May on the shores of Ada Ciganlija. Last year's festival attracted over 80,000 visitors and more than 8,000 participants, including recreational, amateur and professional athletes, families, as well as people who just love sports and the lake. The main goals of the event are the promotion of an active life for young people and the popularisation of a life philosophy where nature, competition and socialising play a key role. Entrance is free of charge, as are certain special attractions such as bungee jumping. Some of the other sports and events on offer - both for participants and spectators - include the Strong Man Cup, football, basketball, handball, American football, rugby, and martial arts and choreographed dance and fitness presentations. For more information see www. belgradesportfest.com

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra All concerts wiil be held at the Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Hall starting at 20:00h 09. 04. 2010. White cycle Conductor: Uros Lajovic Soloist: Andrei Gavrilov, piano Program: N. Rimsky-Korsakov: Sadko, orchestral fanatasy M. Ravel: Concerto for the left hand S. Prokofiev: Piano concerto no. 1 J. Sibelius: Symphony No. 1

5th Belgrade Design Week

29 May - 5 June 2010 Various venues The 5th edition of Belgrade Design Week will be held at the end of this spring, and again transform the city in the epicentre of creativity and the design capital of South-eastern Europe, attracting some design's biggest names. The event is comprised of two major parts: the Smart² conference and an exhibition programme. The Smart² conference will see over 30 of the most interesting individuals and brands in the fields of design, architecture, branding, communication and media participate, including Jaime Hayon, Bjarke Ingels, HiRes, Arik Levy, X Architekten, Martin Guixe, Werner Aisslinger, Koiviso Rune, Nendo, Autoban (with an exhibition) and many others. The conference satellite programme includes the Smart Lab (with various specialised workshops, roundtable discussions and specially arranged B2B meetings), Design Nights (an international clubbing music festival), Design Premiers (with screenings of movies), and the Design Park exhibition (with national and international design pavilions set in unconventional environments). The exhibition programme will include the 100% Serbia exhibition, presenting the first ever exhibition of Serbia's creative industry's finest, and Belgrade² - an unparalleled mix of design and hedonism that will be showcased amidst the unique scenery of Belgrade's streets, store fronts, furniture shops, restaurants, cafés and of course nightlife venues.

16. 04. 2010. Red cycle Conductor: Gudni A. Emilsson Soloist: Sergei Nakariakov, trumpet Program: J. Leifs: Geysir P. I. Tchaikovsky: Variations on a Rococo theme (arr. for trumpet and orchestra) E. Grieg: Symphony in C minor 23. 04. 2010. Blue cycle Conductor: Howard Griffiths Soloist: Melinda Felletar, harp Program: G. Bizet: Symphony No. 1 E. von Donhanyi: Concertino for harp and orchestra R. Shchedrin: Carmen Suite (excerpts) 30. 04. 2010. White cycle Conductor: Sir Neville Marriner Soloists:Hagai Shaham, Ittai Shapira, Stefan Milenkovic and Robert Bokor, violins Program: P. I. Tchaikovsky: Hamlet, overture-fantasy L. Maurer: Concertante for four violins and orchestra P. I. Tchaikovsky: Symphony No. 3 14. 05. 2010. Red cycle Conductor and soloist: Barry Douglas, piano Program: L. van Beethoven: Piano concerto No. 5 (Emperor) F. Mendelssohn: Symphony No. 3 (Scottish) 21. 05. 2010. Blue cycle Conductor: Peter Marchbank Soloist: Sol Gabetta, cello Program: C. Scott: Aubade E. Elgar: Violoncello concerto I. Stravinsky: Le baiser de la fee, ballet suite 28. 05. 2010. Red cycle Conductor: Thomas Rosner Soloist: Liana Issakadze, violin Program: A. Dvorak: Othello overture P. I. Tchaikovsky: Violin concerto

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

17

18

Culture & Events Belgrade Fair 36th International Building Trade Fair (ufi) - South East Europe Belgrade Building Expo 13 - 17 April 2010 www.seebbe.com

this event, attend the children’s theatre shows and fashion shows of youngsters and pregnant ladies, and many other things. As always, the entry is free of charge, as well as any programs including children's participation. 4th South-East European Gaming Expo Belgrade 27 - 29 April 2010, from 10:00 - 18:00 www.see-geb.com According to estimates, there is currently a total of 14,000 gaming machines in the market and most of them will have to be replaced in the near future by the latest electronic machines in accordance with new government requirements. The leading worldwide manufacturers of equipment, software and related gaming products have recognised the importance of the South-East European

The Building Trade Fair in Belgrade has become the most important specialised fair event in this its field in the entire region of South East Europe. From that 1996 until now, the Building Trade Fair has grown by more than three times in terms of its engaged exhibition space and the number of local exhibitors, while the number of international exhibitors has increased six-fold and the number of visitors is a full ten times higher. Specific fields covered include research and designing, construction and maintenance of buildings, building constructuion and civil engineering, hydroconstruction, construction materials, structures equipping, machines, devices and equipment, adaptation, reconstruction and restauratuion, building trade crafts informatics and project control, interior furnishing. 5th Imlek Children’s Fair 23 - 25 April 2010 www.decijisajam.rs The Children’s Fair will feature exhibitors presenting products and services related to the regular growing and development of children and babies: garments, shoewear, food, toys, children’s cosmetics, furniture; services related to children's education, money savings, insurance; as well as publishing activity, creative workshops in dance, acting and rhythm. An important part of the fair is an accompanying program of professional lectures, with topics including children's rights, children and social policy, healthy food, as well as the latest pediatric know-how. All visitors will be able to get free samples, buy products that are only available at

market (including Bosnia, Macedonia, Croatia, Bulgaria, Romania and Albania) and the Expo makes it possible to try, compare and buy the latest and greatest that the field has to offer. And of course, the event is open also to the general public. 54th International Fair of Technique and Technical Achievements (ufi) 11 - 15 May 2010 from 10:00 - 18:00 The International Fair of Technique and Technical Achievements is the most important economic and technological event in Serbia and the whole of South-East Europe, which has got a great influence upon the future industrial development in the country and region. This is a traditional (since 1937) meeting and business contact point, which enables numerous exhibitors and visitors to satisfy their business expectations. The fair is visited by tens of thousands of professionals, decision makers, investors and experts from numerous countries.

Fontain at Nikola Pašić Square

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Art galleries

25. maj Gallery Botićeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 367 14 85. 4Open 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Mon. Arte Galerija C-2, Svetogorska 29, tel. (+381) 11 324 39 96, www.arte.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00 Artget C-2, Trg Republike 5/I, tel. (+381) 11 328 14 07, www.kcb.co.yu. 4Open 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Beograd Gallery B-2, Kosančićev venac 19, tel. (+381) 11 303 39 23, www.galerijabeograd.org. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Cvijeta Zuzorić Art Pavilion C-1, Kalemegdan 1, tel. (+381) 11 262 15 85, www.ulus.org.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00 Diplomatic club Gallery Bulevar oslobođenja (+381) 11 317, tel. 309 50 00. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00 Euroart Gallery C-2, Makedonska 30 (Eurocentar), tel. (+381) 11 337 33 74. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun FLU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 53, tel. 263 06 35. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun Belgrade City Library Gallery C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 40 11. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Gallery 212 C-2, Vlajkovićeva 25, tel. (+381) 11 337 32 99, www.galerija212.co.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Grafički kolektiv Gallery C-2, Obilićev venac 27, tel. (+381) 11 262 77 85, www.grafkol.co.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Haos C-2, Dositejeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74 97, www. gallerychaos.com. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation Gallery C-2, Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 218 57 94, www.kolarac.rs 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun KCB Art Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 6, tel. (+381) 11 262 29 26, www.kcb.org.rs 4Open 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon Magacin C-2, Kraljevića Marka 4, www.domomladine. org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00 New Moment Gallery C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 92, www.newmoment.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00

O3one Gallery C-2, Andrićev venac 12, tel. (+381) 11 323 87 89, www.o3one.rs 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Progres Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 10, tel. (+381) 11 218 26 26. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Remont C-2, Makedonska 5/III, tel. (+381) 11 322 34 06, www.remont.net 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun RTS Gallery C-2, Takovska 10, (+381) 11 321 18 33. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun Salon of the Museum of Contemporary Art C-1, Pariska 14, tel. (+381) 11 263 09 40, www.msub.org. rs. 4Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue SANU Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 11 334 24 00, www.sanu.ac.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Thu 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Mon, Sun Singidunum Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 40, tel. (+381) 11 218 53 23, www.ulupuds.org.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun SKC Gallery C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. (+381) 11 268 84 68, www.skc.org.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Stara Kapetanija Gallery, Kej oslobođenja 8 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 261 20 23. 4Open 10:00 14:00/18:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon SULUJ Gallery C-2, Terazije 26/II, tel. (+381) 11 268 57 80, www.galerijasuluj.org.rs. 4Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Superspace Gallery B-2, Ulica Karađorđeva 2 (Beton hala, Sava Quay), tel. (+381) 11 328 37 49. ULUS Gallery C-2, Knez Mihailova 37, tel. (+381) 11 262 31 28, www.ulus.org.rs. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Zvono Gallery C-1, Višnjićeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 262 52 43, www.galerijazvono.org. 4Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun

Cinemas

Akademija 28 C-3, Nemanjina 28, tel. (+381) 11 361 60 20

DKC C-2, Kolarčeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 262 11 74 Dom sindikata C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 323 48 49

Jadran 2K DPL C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11

The Tuckwood cineplex

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

664 20 57 Kolosej B-2, Ušće shopping center, tel. (+381) 11 285 44 95 Museum Art cinema C-1, Uzun Mirkova 2, tel. (+381) 11 328 18 88 Museum of Yugoslav Film Archives C-2, Kosovska 11, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50 Palas Šumadija, Turgenjevljeva 5, tel. (+381) 11 355 54 65 Roda cineplex, Požeška 83a, tel. (+381) 11 254 52 60 Ster cineplex, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. (+381) 11 220 34 00 Tuckwood Cineplex C-2, Kneza Miloša 7, tel. (+381) 11 323 65 17 Zvezda C-2, Terazije 40, tel. (+381) 11 268 73 20

April - May 2010

19

20

Culture & Events Theatres

Atelje 212 (drama, comedy) C-2, Svetogorska 21, tel. (+381) 11 324 73 42, www.atelje212.rs BDP - Belgrade Drama Theatre (drama) D -3, Mileševska 64a, tel. (+381) 11 283 70 00, www. bdp.rs Bitef Theatre (modern dance) C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. (+381) 11 322 06 08, www.bitef.rs Boško Buha Theatre (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+381) 11 263 28 55, www.buha-theater.com Dadov (youth and alternative theatre) C-2, Desanke Maksimović 6, tel. (+381) 11 324 36 43, www.dadov. rs Duško Radović (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Aberdareva 1, tel. (+381) 11 323 20 72, www. malopozoriste.co.rs JDP - Yugoslav Drama Theatre (drama) C-3, Kralja Milana 50, tel. (+381) 11 306 19 57, www.jdp.co.rs Madlenianum Opera and Theatre (opera, ballet, drama), Glavna 32 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 316 25 33, www.madlenianum.rs National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet) C -2, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+381) 11 262 09 46, www. narodnopozoriste.co.rs Pinokio (children’s puppet theatre), Karađorđeva 9 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 269 17 15 Puž (children’s theatre) D-3, Radoslava Grujića 21, tel. (+381) 11 243 80 36, www.pozoristancepuz.com Slavija Theatre (comedy) C-3, Svetog Save 16, tel. (+381) 11 243 69 95, www.pozoriste-slavija.rs Terazije Theatre (musical, ballet) C-2, Terazije 29, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 43, www.pozoristeterazije.com Zvezdara Theatre (drama, comedy), Milana Rakića 38; Tel: (+381) 11 241 96 64, www.zvezdarateatar.rs

Venues Artget gallery C-2, Trg Republike 5 Belgrade Arena A-2, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića

58, tel. (+381) 11 220 22 22, www.arenabeograd. com Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, www.sajam.co.rs Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra C -2, Studentski trg 11, tel. (+381) 11 328 29 77, www.bgf.co.rs Belgrade Public Bath Cara Dušana 45 Dom omladine (Belgrade Youth Center) C-2, Makedonska 22, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 02, www. domomladine.org Dom sindikata C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 323 42 24 Expo XXI Centre A-2, Španskih boraca 74A, tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs Guarneriuss C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 12, tel. (+381) 11 334 52 37, www.guarnerius.rs KCB Art gallery Knez Mihailova 6 Kolarac (Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation) C -2, Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 05 50, www. kolarac.rs KPGT, Radnička 3, tel. (+381) 11 305 50 70 Legacy House C-2, Knez Mihailova 46 Magacin Kraljevića Marka 4 New Belgrade Sport Hall Pariske komune 20 Pionir Sports Centre D-2, Čarlija Čaplina 39 Rex Cultural Centr e C-1, Jevrejska 16, tel. (+381) 11 328 45 34, www.rex.b92.net Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. (+381) 11 220 60 60, www.savacentar.com SKC (Student Cultural Centre) C-3, Kralja Milana 48, tel. (+381) 11 360 20 11, www.skc.org.rs Tašmajdan Stadium C-2, Beogradska 71 The 25th Maj museum Botićeva 6

Ticket agents Bilet servis C-2, Trg Republike 5, tel. (+381) 11

The statue of Zoran Radmilović in front of Atelje 212

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

303 33 11, www.biletservis.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 21:00, Saturday 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Eventim A-2, 77 Zorana Đinđića L3-6, tel. (+381) 11 314 98 87 www.eventim-yu.com. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Saturday 10:30 - 18:00, Closed Sun. Ticketline C-2, Čika Ljubina 18-20 (Plato Music Store), tel. (+381) 11 203 05 70, www.ticketline. co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

PL

RG

Symbol key

Zlatnik Dobanovačka 95, tel. (+381) 11 316 75 11,

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Belgrade could easily do with more hotels, in all the categories. During big international events there's every chance that you won't be able to find any sort of accommodation, not for love nor money. If luxury is what you're looking for, there are a number of hotels that have been built over the past ten years and are well worth the prices they demand. If your budget is somewhat limited you can always get a nice, cheap cabin in a floating hostel moored off the Danube. Just imagine waking up with a magnificient view of the river island that is the natural habitat for 196 species of bird. It might be advisable to be wary of some of the older hotels, where time seems to have halted in the late 80s. But sometimes they too possess a charm all of their own...

fax (+381) 11 316 72 35, [email protected], www.hotelzlatnik.com. Small and oozing with comfort, this hotel is located 7km from the city centre, in a peaceful street in Zemun. The hotel was built as an extension to a well-known restaurant which has some of the best cuisine in town. It is renowned for its high-quality service and is ideal for business people seeking a peaceful rest far from the hustle and bustle of city life. 437 rooms and 4 suites (singles €115-146, doubles €156-170, junior suite €170-190). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHLGhhhhh

Upmarket

Balkan C-2, Prizrenska 2, tel. (+381) 11 363 60 00,

fax (+381) 11 268 75 81, rezervacije@balkanhotel. net, www.balkanhotel.net. Constructed in 1935 and recently renovated, it is located on Terazije Square, in the heart of the city. The rooms are clean, if a little cramped and basic, but they boast an exceptional view of the busy city centre. The pleasant ground floor level Orient Express restaurant features international specialities from Paris ti Istanbul, with unique interior design reflecting the Orient Express era. 479 rooms and 8 suites (singles €130-180, doubles €145-230, suites €210-230). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKAGhhhh

Cream of the crop

Hyatt Regency B-2, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381) 11 301 12 34, fax (+381) 11 311 22 34, belgrade. [email protected], www.belgrade.regency.hyatt. com. Situated between the Sava Congress Centre and Ušće Business Centre, this is the most luxurious hotel in Belgrade, with efficient and professional service, ideal for all types of meetings and events. The Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Center is the perfect environment for guests to relax, enjoy being pampered and finding a peaceful moment away from tension and stress. The Tea House is an exclusive and favorite Belgrade meeting spot, offering a cosy and relaxed atmosphere for both business and private meetings. 4302 rooms and suites (rooms €187-337, executive suite €327-477, diplomatic suite €1,187-1337, presidential suite €1,487-1637). Prices include breakfast (buffet). VAT and tourist tax not included. PTR FKDAHULGChhhhh President Zrenjaninski put 170, tel.(+381) 11 207 52 00, fax (+381) 11 207 52 60, [email protected], www.president-belgrade.com. A small, lavishly furnished hotel, located in the Kovilovo Sports Centre, 12km from the centre of the city. Far from any city noise, the compound stretches over 26 hectares of park land and is surrounded by a 100 hectare woodland area which is ideal for bird-watching. The compound includes one of the best shooting ranges for clay targets in Europe, tennis courts, a sporting and hunting equipment shop, a shooting school, as well as dog kennels too. 417 rooms and 10 suites (singles €120-150, doubles €150-180, junior suite €220, superior suite €240). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-lacarte. PTRFKD6AHLGChhhhh belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Balkan Hotel Garni

April - May 2010

21

22

Where to stay sports events in Belgrade. Most of the rooms have a view of the woodland area. 4151 rooms, 21 premier rooms and 8 suites (singles €100-152, doubles €125-172, suites €170-215).PTRKAHUGhhhh

Balkan Hotel Garni Požeška 67 A, tel. (+381) 11

360 02 00, fax: (+381) 11 355 31 33, reservations@ balkangarni.rs, www.balkangarni.rs. Part of the 'Balkan' chain of hotels, the Garni is a new addition to the capital's hospitality scene and is located just across the way from the Belgrade Fair. It's not the easiest hotel in the city to find as it is within the confines of a shopping centre and street signs helping you get there are few and far between. Despite being in a busy part of the city, the rooms are sound proofed from the noise of the traffic outside. The hotel has a total of 24 rooms of various types and 12 have spacious balconies. All are equipped with free Wi-Fi internet connections, LCD televisions, air conditioners, telephones, safes, hair dryers, bathrobes and other add-ons.The hotel also offers free 24 hour shuttle bus service to and from the airport.421 rooms and 3 suites (singles €60, doubles €75, suites €110). Prices include VAT and breakfast.AHPRKGhhhh

Best Western M Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. (+381) 11 309 04 01, fax (+381) 11 309 05 01, [email protected], www.hotel-m.com. The hotel is in a rather peaceful part of town, in a forest park area near the highway and the Red Star and Partizan football stadiums, 15 minutes by car from the city centre. It is renowned for its good service, which means that the customers are always willing to come back for more. As well as attracting business people, this hotel has also become a favourite place for athletes participating in

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Best Western Šumadija Šumadijski trg 8, tel. (+381) 11 305 41 00, fax: 355 43 68, office@ hotelsumadija.com, w w w.hotelsumadija.com. Located in the Banovo Brdo section of the city, 8km from the city centre and 2km from the Belgrade fairgrounds, it is in close proximity to both the Ada Ciganlija and Košutnjak recreational areas. The service is excellent, and the hotel has recently been renovated and adapted to suit the needs of business people. The rooms are comfortable and decorated in pastel colours. 4 97 rooms and 6 suites (singles €115-120, doubles €135, suites €160). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRFKADHGhhhh Continental B -2, Vladimira Popovića 10, tel.

(+381) 11 220 42 04, fax (+381) 11 311 14 02, www.continentalhotelbeograd.com. Situated in New Belgrade and attached to the Sava Congress Centre, this spacious hotel is only a five minute drive from the city centre. It belonged to the Intercontinental Hotel chain until recently. The hotel lobby is as big as a terminal in a small airport, with rooms that are large but decorated in a style that must have seemed the height of fashion in the 1980s. There is a banquet hall and a health club with a swimming pool, sauna, and fitness area. The staff are very responsive to customers’ needs.4 415 rooms and 30 suites (singles € 140-160, doubles €150-170, suites €230-600). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRFKD6AHULGChhhhh

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Evropa C-2, Sremska 1, tel. (+381) 11 362 6017, www.hotelevropa.rs. Situated in the very heart of the city centre, the unmistakable façade of the Hotel Evropa has been a Belgrade landmark for over a century, and tells the story of its charm and metropolitan spirit. Entering the grand building is akin to crossing a threshold to a different world, where comfort and beauty, tradition and modernity, design and functionality, excellent service and the newest technology are all paramount. Guests can use the spa centre, and most services are included in the basic price. An on-site conference room is also available for business meeting or other events. 49 suites (€220-330). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRKL6HDUGhhhh Excelsior C-2, Kneza Miloša 5, tel. (+381) 11 323 13

81, [email protected], www.hotelexcelsior. rs. Located in the city centre, near the Parliament, the Excelsior first opened in 1924. The rooms are also rented out for day use.Make sure you get a room with a view of the street and the Pionirski park. 464 rooms (singles €75, doubles €95, superior room €85-105). Prices include VAT and breakfast.PKARhhh

Holiday Inn A-2, Španskih boraca 74, tel. (+381) 11

310 00 00, fax (+381) 11 310 01 00, www.holidayinn. com. A new, modern hotel, opened in 2007 and positioned next to the railway tracks in a section of New Belgrade that is still under construction, it is ideal for people on business since it has a business centre, 14 meeting and conference rooms, and the Expo XXI International Centre is adjacent to the hotel. 4140 rooms (singles €180, doubles €205, 1 suite €250). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRFKD6AHULGhhhh

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

In A-2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 56, tel. (+381)

11 310 53 00, fax (+381) 11 310 53 51, frontoffice@ inhotel-belgrade.rs, www.inhotel-belgrade.com. A relatively new hotel opened in 2006 and located right off the main thoroughfare in close proximity to the Belgrade Arena. The rooms are spacious, decorated in light colours and with modern furniture. An interesting feature is the glass wall separating the bathroom from the rest of the room. The Rooftop Bar and Lounge is an attractive spot for enjoying cocktails in the sun. The hotel is perfect for business people because it includes conference rooms and a business centre, as well as a fitness centre with a relaxation massage option. 4187 rooms and 28 suites (90 singles €165, 66 doubles €185, suites €220-290). PRFKD6AULGhhhh

Le Petit Piaf C-2, Skadarska 34, tel. (+381) 11 303 52 52, fax (+381) 11 303 53 53, office@petitpiaf. com, www.petitpiaf.com. Founded in 2004, this is located in the heart of the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, near the city centre. The rooms are light and clean and furnished in a modern style. It also comes with a French restaurant. 413 rooms and 5 junior suites (6 twin bed rooms €100, doubles €120, suites €140). Prices include VAT and breakfast a-la-carte. PRKAGhhh Life Design Hotel C-2, Balkanska 18, tel. (+381) 11

362 60 90, www.lifedesignhotel.rs. This contemporarily devised design hotel is situated in the very heart of the city. Newly built and designed in a modern fashion, the hotel has an elegant architectural plan as well as numerous services all the services expected of a four-star hotel. Located in the commercial and cultural centre of the city, it is popular with both business travellers and tourists.

April - May 2010

23

24

Where to stay hotel outside Russia which bears the name 'Moscow'. For many Belgraders, the pastry shop on the ground level is a favourite venue for a meeting over coffee, and some of the famous cakes.4 120 rooms and 6 suites (singles €90, doubles €129, suites €297). Prices include VAT and English breakfast. PTRKALGhhhh The décor is subtle and sophisticated, with lots of warm colours and aesthetic diversity. Highly recommended. 446 rooms and 6 suites (singles €99-160, doubles €129160, suites €169-270). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRLDGhhhh

Majestic C-2, Obilićev venac 28, tel. (+381) 11 328 57 77, fax (+381) 11 328 49 95, office@majestic. rs, www.majestic.rs. Established in 1937, this small, comfortable hotel has a tradition of professional, highquality service. Situated in the city centre, directly off Knez Mihailova Street, it is surrounded by restaurants and cafés and is suitable for both tourists and business people. The rooms are clean, but old-fashioned. This hotel takes great pride in its King Suite, as it holds a Certificate of Approval for quality management and the HACCP system. 487 rooms and 6 suites (singles €70-105, doubles €130, suites €155-205). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHLGhhhh Moskva C-2, Balkanska 1, tel. (+381) 11 268 62 55, fax (+381) 11 268 83 89, [email protected], www. hotelmoskva.rs. This elegant hotel on Terazije Square is one of the symbols of Belgrade. The Art Nouveau building was constructed in 1907 and is now a protected building. The rooms are furnished with authentic period furniture and an impressive collection of paintings. It is also the only

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Mr. President C-2, Karađorđeva 75, tel. (+381)

11 360 22 22, www.hotelmrpresident.com. A new, recently-opened hotel, situated in a modern glass building across from the central railway and bus stations, it's already well-known for its portraits of famous world statesmen and dictators in each room. The interior design of the hotel is somewhat exaggerated and accented by colourful, neon lighting. The rooms are clean and furnished in a modern style, but are somewhat lacking in daylight.450 rooms and 11 suites (singles €139, doubles €169, suites €249-444). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRKALGhhhh

Palace C-2, Topličin venac 23, tel. (+381) 11 218 55 85, fax (+381) 11 218 44 58, office@palacehotel. co.rs, www.palacehotel.co.rs. Located in a side street in the city centre, this hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from Knez Mihailova street and Kalemegdan.Originally established In 1923, Palace has numerous loyal guests who would rather not stay in any other hotel. In past few years all the rooms and apartments have been completely renovated. Since it is an integral part of a catering school, a number of students conduct their work experience in the hotel.The restaurant on the very top floor has a pleasant view of the city. 471 rooms and 15 suites (singles €90, doubles €112-135, suites €178). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHGhhhh

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

PL

RG one large family apartment. Garage and car wash are available. 411 rooms and 9 suites (singles €133-190, doubles €163-220). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AHPRK6Ghhhh

Zira Ruzveltova 35 D-2, tel. (+381) 11 331 48 00, fax (+381) 11 331 48 01, www.zirahotels.com. The rooms in this hotel are designed in a contemporary style and equipped with the latest technology. The staff members are young and eager to prove themselves and the food in the restaurant is prepared by an experienced Italian chef. The hotel has a spacious underground garage with direct access to the Zira Shopping Mall and a large supermarket. Walks to the centre of the city are recommended only to the very enthusiastic - others will have to rely on taxis. 4116 rooms and 8 suites (doubles €165). Price includes breakfast (English). VAT not included. PRGFLKAUhhh

Mid-range

Prestige B -3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 24, tel.

(+381) 11 305 74 65, [email protected], www. hotelprestige.rs. An elegant hotel close to the city centre, not far from Belgrade Fair and Sava Lake, this hotel is ideal for business guests and sportsmen. The completely renovated 50 year old restaurant "Bask" offers national cuisine, vegeterian dishes and meals for diabetics. Parking is free of charge, and guests have access to the hotel's and weight room fitness centre adapted for many different sports (basketball, volleyball, handball or football). 430 rooms, 4 suites (singles €75-90, doubles €85-125, suites €111-239). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRFKHUGLhhhh

Slavija Lux C-3, Svetog Save 2, tel. (+381) 11 244 11 20, fax (+381) 11 243 15 17, rezervacija_lux@ slavijahotel.com, www.slavijahotel.com. Housed in a contemporary building on Slavija square, the biggest intersection in the city and only 1 km from the city centre and the Central Railway Station. The rooms are clean but rather tastelessly decorated in the style of the 1980’s (at the risk of repeating ourselves, let us say again that this is a very frequent occurrence when it comes to hotels awaiting privatisation). The Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor has a nice view of the city. 472 rooms and 12 suites (singles €70-88, doubles €90-100, suites €111-128). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). POTRFKALGhhhh

Elegance Zrenjaninski put 98a, tel. (+381) 11 207 50 00, fax (+381) 11 207 50 05, office@ hotelelegance.rs, www.hotelelegance.rs. A new hotel catering to business people, it provides a satisfactory alternative to the overbooked downtown hotels. Elegance is situated on the outskirts of Belgrade, 6km north of the city centre, across the Danube and about 15-20 minutes by taxi provided there are no bottlenecks on the bridge. The rooms are well-furnished and simply designed. 440 rooms and 6 suites (singles €36, doubles €72, suites €100). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRKLGHFhhh Kasina C-2, Terazije 25, tel. (+381) 11 323 55 74, fax (+381) 11 323 82 57. One of the oldest hotels in town, located in the very centre. The interior desperately needs restoration but is nevertheless clean. You can chose between rooms with a good view of the street and quieter rooms in the back section of the hotel. The rooms that have been renovated are decent. The elevator is not for those who fear confined spaces. There is a pub on the ground floor, where they serve home-brewed draught beer. 497 rooms and 5 suites (singles €42-80, doubles €81102, suites €118-127). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRKhhh

Townhouse 27 C-2 Maršala Birjuzova 56, tel. (+381)

11 202 29 00, www.townhouse27.com. A new and exclusive boutique hotel in the old town, a few steps away from Republic Square and Knez Mihailova Street. Characterised by modern architecture and minimalist interior design, each room has high-speed Internet, an espresso machine and a Bang&Olufsen flat screen TV. All the rooms are non-smoking. The suites will satisfy various indulgences and the Presidential Suite is furnished with a Jacuzzi. There is also an option to merge two units into

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

25

26

Where to stay next to the hotel, which is available to the hotel’s guests. Rooms for daytime use only are also available until 18:00 for €30. 424 rooms and 2 suites (singles €50-80, doubles €70-100, suites €119). PRFKALGhhh

Srbija Ustanička 137c, tel. (+381) 11 289 04 04, fax Lav Cara Dušana 240, tel. (+381) 11 316 32 89, fax

(+381) 11 316 26 48, www.hotellav.co.rs. A small hotel on the outskirts of Zemun, you will need to take public transport for 20 minutes to get to the city centre. The rooms are decent and clean and will appeal to those who like flowered patterns on chairs and armchairs. 24 hr room service. The rooms can also be rented out for daytime rest. 429 rooms and 2 suites (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €98, suites €98-110). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRKGHLhh

Orašac Luke Vojvodića 25n, tel. (+381) 11 256

10 90, www.hotelorasac.co.rs. A small hotel in the suburbs, some 12 km away from the centre of the city (a 20-30min. taxi ride from the centre, depending on the time of the day). The Košutnjak forest park is close by, with its many attractions, not least the great nature walks and sports facilities. The rooms are comfortable and wellfurnished. 47 rooms and 6 suites (singles/doubles €76, suites €112). Price includes VAT and breakfast. Simboli: APRKLG6Hhhh

Park C-3, Njegoševa 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 364 03 83, fax 364 03 93, www.hotelparkbeograd.rs. A hotel right smack in the centre of the city, this is a well-equipped place with all the amenities required for a pleasant stay. One key feature is the in-house gym which can be used free-of-charge and massages and relaxation in the Jacuzzi can be enjoyed at discounted rates. The restaurant serves local and international cuisine and also lays on business lunches, cocktail parties, banquets and wedding receptions. 4128 rooms (singles €40-65, doubles €7090, triples €105-125, suites €90-100). Prices include breakfast.APRKHLhhh

(+381) 11 289 24 62, [email protected], www. hotelsrbija.com. Set in an 18-storey concrete building close to the motorway and 6km from the city centre, most of the rooms in this hotel have recently been renovated and equipped with modern - yet not overly attractive furniture. Some single bedrooms have no air conditioning. The hotel is frequently visited by large groups of tourists and sports teams. 4233 rooms and 13 suites (singles €47-60, doubles €66, suites €89-115). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTKALGhhh

Budget

BG City Hotel C-2, Savski Trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 66 44 055, [email protected]. Freshly renovated at the end of 2009 and located on the same central square as the main train station, BG City is one of the best value options in the entire city. Housed in a beautiful neorenaissance building with high ceilings and large rooms, all of the furnishings are new and three-star amenities come standard in every room. Guarded parking is also available, but it's limited so make sure to reserve a space in advance. 447 rooms (singles €36-43, doubles €55-63, suites €6387). PHALROhhh Bristol C-2, Karađorđeva 50, tel. (+381) 11 268 84 00,

fax (+381) 11 303 71 61. Located right next to the arrivals platform of the central bus station, housed in a beautiful 1912 building. The hotel is run by an army agency which probably explains why, in spite of the fact that the hotel has not been

Rex C-3, Sarajevska 37, tel. 361 18 62, fax 361

29 65, www.hotelrex-belgrade.com. A small hotel in a noisy street near the train station. Most of the rooms have recently been renovated and offer an adequate level of comfort for the price you pay. The beds are comfortable, the rooms clean and the staff friendly. There is a supermarket nearby and one of the most popular night clubs in the city is just across the street from the hotel. 492 rooms (singles €70, doubles €90, triples €98, suites €98-110). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APKHLhhh

Skala Bežanijska 3, tel. 307 50 32, www.hotelskala.

rs. Located in a beautiful old house in the centre of Zemun, which is a 15 minute drive from the city centre. The rooms are nice and cosy, and the staff are friendly. The spacious hotel restaurant, known for its attractive ambiance, frequently hosts weddings and other festive events. 414 rooms and 2 suites (singles €65, doubles €86, suites €96). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTRKAhhh

Slodes Borska 92f, tel. (+381) 11 305 55 18, www. hotelslodes.com. A new hotel opened at the end of 2006 and housed in an unseemly building located 8km from the city centre. Though the rooms are not very large or tastefully decorated, they are nevertheless clean and some of them have a jacuzzi. This is the ideal hotel for the sporty, since there is a large sports hall situated right Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

PL

RG

renovated for at least 30 years, the rooms are clean and neat and period furniture is reasonably preserved. If you don’t mind the oversized antediluvian TV boxes and the noise generated during the day by the bus station and heavy traffic, you will get very decent accommodation for little outlay. The third floor houses the recently renovated 'Gold Suite’ which is not available for hire. Rockefeller stayed there in the twenties, and his son in the seventies, so it seems that this luxury suite is kept for the Rockefeller family in case they decide to revisit Belgrade.449 rooms and 5 suites (singles €28-39, doubles €43, triples €61, suites €61). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AKRhh

N Bilećka 57, tel. (+381) 11 397 21 83, office@

hotel-n.rs, www.hotel-n.rs. Opened in 1996, it is situated in a residential neighbourhood, 20 minutes by car from the centre of the city. Although the hotel is somewhat remote part of the city, the rooms are decent and furnished in a modern style. Holders of the Euro26 youth card are entitled to a 50 per cent discount. 4111 rooms (singles €31-62, doubles €68-85). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRKAHGhhh

Pošta C-2, Savska 3, tel. (+381) 11 361 42 60,

[email protected], www.hotelpostabg.com. Established in 1938 and recently renovated, Posta is close to the railway station. It is a small and pleasant hotel, known for its hospitality and friendly staff. 424h room service, internet-cafe. 432 rooms (singles €31, doubles €46). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKAhhh

Prag C-2, Kraljice Natalije 27, tel. (+381) 11 321 44

44, fax (+381) 11 361 26 91, hotelprag@sezampro. rs, www.hotelprag.co.rs. Housed in a protected building that dates from 1929, this hotel is excellently located given that it is only 5 minutes away from the central railway and bus stations and only two minutes away from the very heart of the city. Key facilities in the place - such as the reception area and restaurant - have been renovated recently and the rooms have also been given face-lifts. The staff are friendly and ready to respond to any queries and concerns and a rooms are equipped with all the modern amenities guests can expect from 21st century hotel. 482 rooms (singles €79-92, doubles €106, triples €117129, suites €157-192). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKAGHhhh

Royal C-1, Kralja Petra 56, tel. (+381) 11 263 42

22, fax (+381) 11 262 64 59, www.hotelroyal.co.rs. This is the oldest functioning hotel in the city, and dates back to 1886, with its most recent renovation being 1973. It is near to both the city centre and Kalemegdan. The rooms are clean but fairly basic, and some do not have air conditioning. The hotel is known for its inexpensive but quality restaurant which is open around the clock. Its small shop and Internet café are also open around the clock. 4105 rooms and 15 suites (singles €30-38, doubles €40-55, suites €72). Prices include VAT and continental breakfast. PKAGhhh

Slavija C-3, Svetog Save 1-9, tel. (+381) 11 244 11 20, fax (+381) 11 243 15 17, www.slavijahotel.com. Also known as Slavija 2 or Slavija B. Certainly not among belgrade.inyourpocket.com

the best hotels in town. The service is not as bad as the place itself, literally falling apart and waiting for a new owner to renovate it. Most hostels will offer much better accommodation. On the upside you will probably be able to find a room here when all the other hotels are full, given its excellent location close to the centre of the city. The Jat Airways shuttle bus service to the airport departs in front of the hotel, garage. 4161 rooms and 12 suites (singles €34, doubles €47, suites €69). Price includes VAT and breakfast. AHKhh

Taš C-2, Beogradska 71, tel. (+381) 11 324 35 07,

[email protected], www.hotel-tas.com. A smallish hotel, with all its walls painted blue and located in the Tašmajdan sports centre near the centre of the city. Rooms for daytime use only are available until 18:00 for the price of €11-17. 415 rooms and 2 suites (singles €32, doubles €45, suites €65). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PKAhh

Trim Kneza Višeslava 72, tel. (+381) 11 354 06 69,

[email protected], www.trim.org.rs. Situated in the Košutnjak forest park area, 9km from the centre and far from any city noise. Most of the small but clean and cosy rooms have a view of the park. 423 rooms and 1 suite (singles €35, doubles €57, suite €63). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTKAHLhh

Guest houses

Bed & breakfast Granžan Sinđelićeva 6, (+381)

11 261 34 23, [email protected], www.bedandbreakfastbelgrade.com. Very close to Gardoš, this serene retreat is a family house with a beautiful view over the Danube. The owners offer bed and breakfast in 3 luxurious rooms with art decor and a bathroom. A cafe gallery on the ground floor and the quiet surroundings are ideal for anyone looking for peace and quiet. 43 rooms ( doubles €60, single use €50). Price include VAT and breakfast. ARG

City Code C-2, Dobračina 26, tel. (+381) 11 328 85

00, www.hotelcitycode.com. Luxury apartments with a contemporary interior, in close proximity to the city centre. Also in the vicinity is Stahinjića Bana Street, famous for its numerous bars and restaurants. Discrete service and 24hr room service as well. The street these apartments are located on is not very busy or noisy, except for when trolleybuses pass by on their way to the garage. 46 rooms (singles €100, doubles €120). Price includes VAT and breakfast. APRG

Queen's Apartments C-2, Đure Daničića 13,

tel. (+381) 11 322 88 40, fax 334 77 94, office@ queensapartments.rs, www.queensapartments.rs. Located in a house dating back to the beginning of the 20th century, not far from the city centre. The apartments are quite spacious (120 m2) and well-equipped and include a kitchen and a jacuzzi. A pleasant restaurant, the Pogođena Patka, is located on the ground level. Concierge service. 42 suites (singles €150, doubles €200, four person €300). Prices include VAT and break fast. PTRKA

April - May 2010

27

28

Where to stay Rezime Crown B-2, Knez Mihailova 33, tel. (+381) 11 262 74 71, [email protected], www. rezimegroup.com. Situated in the very heart of Belgrade in a two storey 19th century building without any lift. The size of the apartments varies from 75 to 90m2, while the furniture reflects the 19th century atmosphere. Most of the apartments are named after famous painters and have views of Knez Mihailova Street. The entrance is not that impressive since it is a protected building and it is impossible to make any changes to the exterior.4 10 suites (€ 165-180), prices include VAT, city tax and breakfast a la carte for one, with a € 15 breakfast and €1,25/per day (city tax) surcharge for a second person.APR Rezime Residence C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. (+381) 11 262 91 81, fax (+381) 11 334 88 37, [email protected], www.rezimegroup.com. Perfect choice for anyone looking for accommodation in a quiet street in the downtown area. Housed in an authentic building which is protected as a cultural heritage site, RR offers elegantly furnished apartments (35-60m2). There is a public garage within walking distance from the hotel and Knez Mihajlova Street is also nearby. This place is suitable for anyone requiring peace and quiet, since the entrance to the building is only for the hotel’s guests. 410 suites (€115, 135, 150), prices include VAT, city tax and breakfast a la carte for one, with a €10 (breakfast) and €1,25/ per day (city tax) surcharge for the second person. APR Travelling Actor C-2, Gospodar Jevremova 65, tel.

(+381) 11 323 41 56, www.travellingactor.rs. If you take a right turn after entering through the old wooden door, you will be led to another nondescript door at the very end of the hallway, where you will find rooms for

rent. Though not very large, each of these wonderfully comfortable rooms includes cable TV, a mini-bar and a modern bathroom. Some of the rooms have a view of Skadarlija - the vintage street packed with restaurants and galleries. The friendly staff will adapt check-in/ check-out times to suit customers’ needs. The building’s ground level harbours a tiny restaurant with checked tablecloths, and featuring Serbian and Italian specialties. 45 rooms (singles €60-70, doubles €88-98, suites €188). PRA

Villa Belvedere Dr. Nedeljka Ercegovca 39, tel. (+381) 11 316 04 33, www.villabelvedere.rs. Ideal for businessman and the anyone wanting to escape from the bustle outside. This hotel, with its accompanying luxurious apartments is well away from the city noise and close to the Danube and the airport. Villa has a large yard, parking space and garages, video surveillance, restaurant. Every apartment is equipped with a LCD TV, mini bar, air conditioning, telephone line, Wi-Fi, balcony and a breathtaking view over Belgrade.4 5 apartments (singles €100, doubles € 130, triples € 160). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APKGL6 Villa Forest Majevička 2m, (+381) 11 319 63 24,

www.gh-forest.com. A new guest house, 7 km away from both the city centre and airport, very close to the motorway, this is ideal for business travellers because it offers a conference room for meetings with all the appropriate technical equipment (seating up to 20 people). Being awakened by birds from the surrounding park is a fine experience here. The rooms are nicely decorated with modern furniture, all with a direct telephone line and bathrooms that meet high standards. 418 rooms and 6 suites (singles €57, doubles € 69 – 73, suite € 89) APKHL

Villa Manjež B-2, Svetozara Markovića 49, tel.

(+381) 11 362 11 11, fax. (+381) 11 362 11 11, [email protected], www.manjez.rs. A recently built villa, related to a famous and one of Belgrade’s oldest national restaurants, Manjež offers tranquility in the city centre, though you will not be impressed by the view. The rooms offer traditional decor and modern equipment. If you suddenly feel hungry, room service offers real restaurant food. 44 rooms and 2 suites (singles €65, doubles €75, suites €85). Prices include VAT, breakfast and resident tax are not included. APGR

Villa Kalemegdan C-1, Strahinjića Bana 7, tel. (+381)

11 263 78 56, fax (+381) 11 218 55 86, reservation@ villakalemegdan.com, www.villakalemegdan.com. Offers wonderfully decorated luxury suites, situated in the immediate vicinity of Kalemegdan park, in a peaceful section of a street famous for its numerous cafés and restaurants. Apart from the standard bathroom, the Royal Suite also has a jacuzzi. 46 suites (singles €100, doubles €125). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRAL

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

PL

RG

Villa Marija Debarska 12, tel. (+381) 11 244 84 84, [email protected]. Located in a peaceful, residential neighbourhood just a few kilometres from the city centre, this hotel has comfortable and wellequipped rooms. The guests may use the common living room, the well-equipped kitchen, as well as the spacious terrace providing an excellent setting for a BBQ. 410 rooms (singles €80, doubles €80). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet). PTRALG Villa Nevenka Luke Vojvodića 24, tel. (+381) 11

305 65 17, [email protected], www.villanevenka.com. A recently-built villa located on top of Košutnjak hill, offering tastefully decorated rooms. The villa is in the forest, not far away from the outdoor swimming pools of the Košutnjak Sports Centre, sports facilities and a trim trail. A few kilometres’ distance from the city centre should not present a problem to those who crave a restful sleep after a long day exploring the city. 420 rooms (singles €50, doubles €80, triples €100). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRGL

Villa Zemun Fruškogorska 1, tel. (+381) 62 66 14

14, [email protected], www.vilazemun.com. Boasts comfortable new rooms only minutes from a popular promenade on the Danube river bank in Zemun. All of them are entered from the yard, of which they also

have excellent views of. They are equipped with a TV, mini bar, telephone, internet and air conditioning and the villa has video surveillance, so you don’t have to worry about your safety. Morning drinks (tea or coffee,) are free of charge.410 rooms (1 single €45, 9 doubles €70, extra bed €25). Prices include VAT but not the residential tax. APGR

Apartments

Apollo 011 Subotička 23, tel. (+381) 63 11 6

19 82, [email protected], www.apollo011. in.rs. An affordable high-class apartment with 41m² floor area, located in a newly constructed building on the 3rd floor. The apartment consists of one bedroom, bathroom, completely equipped kitchen and balcony. It is furnished with cable TV, radio, high speed internet connection, telephone, and security door. The building has an elevator, interphone and disabled access. Close to the apartment, there are bus and trolley-bus stops, so you can reach the downtown proper in no time. 441 suites (singles €40, doubles €40, triples €60). No charge for children under 8. Cash deposit (€100 - refundable) and resident tax (131 dinars per person, per night) are not included. PUG

Hostels

ArkaBarka floating Belgrade hostel A-1 ,

Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, tel. (+381) 64 925 35 07, www.arkabarka.net. A floating hostel on the Danube, made of wood and surrounded by trees, perfect for nature-lovers who like waking up to bird song and don’t mind taking a short walk to the nearest bus stop. The rooms are nice and clean. They also have a lovely bar on the water where parties are occasionally held. 42 doubles €35 per room, 4 triples €47 per room, 2 suites €50-60 per suite. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRKA6LG

Beli Grad C-3, Nemanjina 42 / II, tel. (+381) 11 36

12 126, (+381) 64 27 99 009, www.hostelbeligrad. com Located on Slavija Square, this cosy three room hostel is about as central as you can get and the staff have a reputation of being some of the friendliest and most helpful around. When they're not offering to prepare free coffee or tea (or rakija) or do your laundry, they're making sure that the place is kept per fectly clean. 4Highly recommended.3 rooms (8-bed dorm €10-13, 6-bed dorm €13-16, private room €20-30). P6GR

Hostel Beli Grad 42 NEMANJINA STREET, SLAVIJA SQUARE +381 11 36 12 126 www.hostelbeligrad.com [email protected] belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

29

30

Where to stay

Centar C-2, Gavrila Principa 46a, tel. (+381) 11 761 96 86, www.hostelcentar.com. AA large hostel in a three-floor building, with well-furnished rooms (cable TV, PC, air ionizer, telephone) and kitchen and bathroom on every floor. It is located close to the Central Railway Station and Bus Station, near the centre of the city. The hostel has made a good name for its cleanliness and towels and sheets are changed daily. Each guest will receive a welcoming gift containing various trifles, from slippers to chocolate. 49 rooms (2 doubles €22, 3 triples €21, 3 4-bed dorms €20, 5-bed dorm €20). PRK A G

Cricket C-3, Makenzijeva 46, tel. (+381) 11 244 19 66, www.crickethostel.com. This charming new hostel is located only a 10 minute walk from Republic square and 5 minutes from Slavija square. It includes bright and cheerful colours in the interior and polite staff who will provide you with important info on city events. There are also 3 balconies, bike rental, a common room equipped with TV and DVD, a small library, a film collection and various games. 44 rooms (1 double €19, 2 4-bed dorm €16, 1 8-beed dorm €13). Prices do not include residential tax 121 dinars (around €1.5). VAT included. A R

Central Station C-2, Karađorđeva 87, tel.(+381)

Crossroad C -1, Gospodar Jevremova 41, tel.

11 66 85 067, www.hostelcentralstation.com. Situated on the first floor of an old house across from the Train Station. Although the building’s façade and ground floor hallway appear run-down, the hostel itself is quite decent. The rooms are large and clean, decorated with bright colours, and there’s a sufficient number of toilets and shower compartments. There’s also a common mini-kitchen where guests can prepare their own food. 48 doubles €20, 2 triples €20, 4-bed dorm €15, 3, 5-bed dorm €15,3 8-bed dorm €12(prices per bed). PG

Chilton C-3, Katanićeva 7, tel. (+381) 11 344 18 26. Even though it’s about 2 km from the centre, this is still one of the most popular hostels. The rooms are filled with beds, there are only two toilets and two shower compartments, but there’s also a very comfortable living room and a large kitchen with a woodburning stove, which is a favourite congregation point for guests. The friendly staff keep the guests informed about upcoming club events and concerts. 44-bed dorm €15-19, 6-bed dorm €8-15, 10-bed dorm €10-13 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. PRG City Center C-2, Savski trg 7, tel. (+381) 11 264

40 55, www.hostelcitycenterbelgrade.com. A huge hostel opposite the train station. The furniture and rugs are quite old but the rooms are sunny and clean and offer nice views. Shared bathrooms, but separate for men and women. Each room has a washbasin and some even have their own shower. 441 doubles €2237, 6 triples €26-33, 3 suites €45, 5 4-bed dorms €9.75, 3 8-bed dorms €8.75. Prices include VAT. PKO6 A

(+381) 11 263 75 70, www.crossroad-hostel.com. This is a nicely decorated, cosy apartment, situated near the city centre, with a living room, dining room, kitchen, bathroom, and two bedrooms. Clean and comfy. 42 rooms (doubles €45, triples €55). Prices include VAT. PR A G

Happy hostel C-3, Kralja Milutina 28, tel. tel.

(+381) 11 361 94 14, www.happy-hostel.com. Hostel on Slavija Square in the immediate vicinity of the main bus / railway station. The hostel looks happy in every way: carpets and bed linen are in lively colours and the staff are young and pleasant. It is situated on the 2nd floor of a freshly renovated building. A common sitting room, kitchen, two bathrooms and a baggage room make a total of four bedrooms 4(1 double € 25, 1 four-bedded €16, 1 eight-bedded €12) Prices include VAT. PRG

Hostel Captain C-1, Kapetan Mišina 16, tel. (+381) 1 1 21 8 1 819, of f ice@hostelcaptain. com, www.hostelcaptain.com. Hostel Captain is one of Belgrade’s leading hostels and is located very conveniently in the city centre. The spacious common room with TV and Internet access, as well as the kitchen, is on the ground floor, with the bedrooms on the first and the second floor. Whether you’re a backpacker, businessman or woman or in group of friends and looking for great value accommodation that is clean and guarantees a comfortable night’s sleep then Hostel Captain is a very good bet when visiting Belgrade. 45 rooms (singles €30, doubles €40, triple €55, 4-bed dorm €68, 6-bed dorm €90. Pices per room). Prices include VAT. P6R Hostel Fair B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 37-39,

(+381) 11 369 2506, (+381) 65 88 99 238, [email protected] As the name implies, this place is situated directly opposite the Belgrade Fair, meaning that beds can be hard to come by during events. Despite being located in a rather rough looking commercial building, the hostel has a lot going for it. Still relatively new, the spotless premises have been completely renovated, with lots of bright colours and stylish modern touches. A huge lounge area in the front runs the entire width of the building, which is great for guests who'd like to socialise, since the majority of rooms have only two to four beds. 417 rooms (doubles €25, 4-bed dorm €20, 6-bed dorms €15) PH A R

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

PL

RG

In Old Shoes C-2, Brankova 18/II, (+381) 11 218

3650, (+381) 64 136 65 05, [email protected], www.inoldshoes.com Compact and quirky, staying at that Old Shoes feels like something in between the hostelling and couchsur fing experience. Located just down the hill from Republic Square and within easy walking distance of the entire city centre, this place is a great option for budget travellers looking for a quiet homey experience. 43 rooms (8-bed dorm €10, doubles €15). PRG

J a s m i n B/C - 2 , 6 9 K a r a d j o r d j e v a , (+ 3 8 1 ) 6 3 2 3 1 70 0, (+ 3 8 1) 1 1 2 1 8 4 4 1 1 , o f f i c e@ hostelbelgradejasmin.com, www. hostelb elgradeja smin.com O n e o f th e n ewest hostels in Belgrade, Jasmin is also one of the best, and it's location opposite the central bus train stations makes it the most convenient choice for new arrivals. The old town is easily reached on foot, but if you prefer public transport several tram lines stop right outside as well. Everything in the recently renovated flat is new, and the laid back staff are more than happy to recommend the best parties and let guests sleep in late if no one else is checking in the next day. 420 beds (8-bed dorm €12, 5-bed dorm €15, double €20, single €25 per person). PRL Manga C -2 , Resavska 7, tel. (+381) 1 1 324 38 77, www.mangahostel.com. Manga Hostel is owned and run by a young and chatty couple who will only be too happy to help you explore the city. This is a genuine backpackers’ hostel, very comfortable and pleasantly furnished. It is located in the centre of the town, surrounded by shops, restaurants and city transport stops offering a ride to almost any part of the city. The hostel features a bedside lamp and locker for each bed, hygienic mattress, TV/common room and fully equipped kitchen. 44 rooms (1 single €23-28, 2 4-bed dorms €15-18, 1 10-bed dorm €10-13). Prices include VAT, coffee and tea during the day and internet access. PRG Star C-1, Cara Uroša 37, tel. (+381) 11 218 41 04, www.star-hostel.com One of the oldest hostels in Belgrade, located in the city centre, overlooking Kalemegdan park – which is a rarity for hostels or hotels in this city. The rooms are nice and clean and you can chill out in cosy lazy bags. The pleasant hostel staff will supply you with all the necessary information on a city that never sleeps and may even join you in

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

clubbing. 46 rooms (doubles € 36 twin private room € 35, triples €16, 4-bed dorm €14, 6-bed dorm €12, 10-bed dorm € 12). PR

The New Inn C-2, Prizrenska 1, tel. (+381) 11 36 12 341, [email protected], www. thenewinnbelgrade.com. This hostel is hidden away, just off Terazije Square, in the centre of the city, on the second floor of a historic building, so don’t be surprised by the exterior. It is 350 metres from the train and bus stations and within walking distance from anything you may need in the centre. PlayStation, a well equipped kitchen and a large balcony with a beautiful view over the square and Hotel Moskva means the place can very much be recommended. The hostel has one private double bedroom with a separate bathroom and TV. 45 rooms (1 double € 35, 1 triple € 26, 1 4-bed dorm € 22, 1 6-bed dorm € 17, 1 8- bed dorm € 15). Prices include VAT. P A RG Three Black Cats C-2, Čika Ljubina 7/49, tel.

(+381) 11 262 98 26, www.hostel.rs. Very close to Knez Mihailova Street, but somewhat difficult to find. The small and cramped hostel with colourful walls covered in posters is frequented by outgoing young people, as this is the ideal place for them to recuperate from all-night partying, after which they can find neither their socks nor their beds. 45 rooms (4-bed dorms €11.5, 6-bed dorm €12.5). Prices per bed and include VAT. A RG

Tis Koste Abraševića 17, tel. (+381) 11 380 60 50, www.tishostel.co.rs. A large house with a yard far from the city centre, in a quiet residential area. The common room is comprised of a few separate sections. There is also a large kitchen and an attractive backyard where barbecues are often organised in good weather. It is possible to rent the entire hostel for larger groups. 443 doubles €14.7, 8 6-bed dorms 12.7 (prices per bed). Prices include VAT. P A RGL Yachting Club Kej B-1, Ušće bb, tel. 316 54 32,

www.klubkej.com. A floating hostel on the Danube. Guests are accommodated in twin-bed cabins with large windows. A su f ficient number of toilets and showers. Very clean. There’s a restaurant on the boat, as well as a catamaran which takes guests cruising down the Danube every night and offers home-brewed draught beer along with music. 49 doubles €14 per bed. RK6 A HG

April - May 2010

31

32

Restaurants Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstances the country has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely organic, with no genetically modified products or artificial flavourings and the portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a substantial quantity of meat and served with a variety of vegetables. ‘Home-cooked’ meals tend to be spicier.

Asian

Ginger A-1, Boulevard Nikola Tesla 3, tel. (+381) 11 220 28 22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. Part of Grand Casino Belgrade, the dishes at this pan-Asian restaurant are inspired by a combination of flavours of the Far East - Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine among them - and prepared in an open kitchen. The 999 dinars buffet gives you the possibility to taste a bit of everything, with the exception of sushi. An entrance pass is required, so don’t forget your ID or passport. 4Open 12:00 – 01:00, Sat,Sun 12:00 – 03:00. €€. PALG

Chinese

Peking C-2, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. (+381) 11 218

19 31, www.peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant, established nearly thirty years ago, with a long-standing tradition of quality. Tucked into one of the side streets in the city centre, this restaurant always has a table available. They have various specialties from different regions in China, as well as Chinese wines, brandy and teas. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. €€. PTBASG

French

Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel. (+381) 11 364

06 25. The only French bistro in town. The food is generally decent but can sometimes be a real let-down, especially if the place is crowded. The interior features a long bar, tables that are pushed too close together and large mirrors on the walls. The service could be better, to be frank. During the day the atmosphere here is quite enjoyable but in the evenings the bar area tends to be noisy and swarming with people, so it’s not exactly the best option for an intimate dinner date4Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. PRA

Le Moliere C-2, Zmaj Jovina 11, tel. (+381) 11 218 81

61. Authentic French bistro located right next to the French Cultural Centre. The menu, although not extensive, features the classical marvels of French cuisine: French onion soup, foie gras, escalopes with red wine and onion sauce, crème brûlée and chocolate soufflé. Their daily menu (valid until 18:00) includes a different French dish each day. You may order French wines and champagne by the glass. Tread carefully when you go down the stairs on the way to the toilet because the stairway isn’t high enough for most people. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. PASR

Fusion

Diva A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. (+381) 11 220 28 22, www.grandcasinobeograd.com. One of the most luxurious restaurants in Belgrade is housed in Grand Casino, Hotel Yugoslavia at the Zemun Quay. Only registered guests may enter the casino and this applies to all casino facilities, including the Diva restaurant. Registration is free and takes place at the entrance. It entails having your photo taken, filling out a form and presenting your ID or passport. It is well worth spending the time to do this to gain access to what is an elegant restaurant. It features first class fusion specialties prepared by internationally acclaimed chefs and a large selection of wines. The prices are suited to the ambiance but there is a special offer, Eat&Play package offering full dinner (from the daily menu) and 1,000 RSD credit for gambling in the casino, all for the price of 2,490 dinars. Reservations required. 4Open 19:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEL. Majik C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. (+381)

11 334 86 90, www.majikcafe.com. An attractive restaurant designed by the famed Karim Rashid. Modern art enthusiasts will find it fascinating regardless of the food, which unfortunately tends to be rather bland. The Funky Fusion Food Menu is designed to reflect the restaurant’s unusual interior design (with colour-changing walls) but it still falls short of satisfying the taste buds of a true hedonist. The glass wall dividing the kitchen from the restaurant will reveal that not all the cooks are wearing their caps. Local DJs perform in the evenings. The general impression is enhanced by the amiable hostess and the fantastic chocolate soufflé. 4Open 09:00 01:00. €€€. PBRAS

Zaplet D-3, Kajmakčalanska 2, (+381) 11 240 41 42. Always fresh and innovative, this Vračar-based restaurant is one of Belgraders’ favorite places. The establishment offers mainly fusion cuisine, so don’t let the unusual mixtures of flavors confuse you. It might look contradictory at first glance but once you taste the food you’ll lose any preconceptions you might have had before. There are also a wide range of traditional Serbian dishes and surprisingly some of the best “ćevapčići” in town, as well as sumptuous lamb with potatoes. Everything fits perfectly together here – from the minimalist interior, staff livery, to the manner in which the food is served. 4Open 09:00 – 23:00, Closed Mon. €€. PBRAS Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Franš C-3, Bulevar oslobođenja 18a, tel. (+381) 11

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

O Casino

B Terrace

R Internet

6 Animal friendly

Greek

Zorba D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. (+381) 11 337 65 47, www.zorba.co.rs. A restaurant with a number of authentic specialties from the various regions of Greece. All the dishes are prepared with olive oil and Greek wines are also available. One of only five restaurants in the world guarding the secret recipe for the topping of the famous Rota pie. The unimpressive interior shouldn’t be an issue, as this place is well worth visiting for one compelling reason - the truly good food.4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:30 - 24:00. €€. PTBASG

Indian

Maharaja Ljubićka 1b, tel. (+381) 11 344 62 35, www. maharaja.rs. One of Belgrade's only Indian restaurants, Maharaja passes the authenticity test with a menu full of superb dishes from the sub-continent prepared in a traditional tandoori oven. As should be expected, some of the dishes are extremely hot so be sure to to tell your waiter if you prefer a milder version of the meal. Since the restaurant is a bit removed from the city centre the best way to get there is by taxi.4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Closed Mon. €€. PBASG

International

Balzac C-1, Strahinjića Bana 13, tel. (+381) 11 328

59 06, A small restaurant with an enjoyable atmosphere, famous for its meat specialties and uniquely decorated desserts. Its ambiance, food and service make it a favourite for foreigners in Belgrade. Rakija is served in measures which are smaller than is normally the custom. 4Open 10:00 24:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBRASE

Dišina Koliba Andre Nikolića 2V, tel. (+381) 11 369 17 00. Restaurant on the edge of the Topčider forest. Discover interesting international meals prepared by the new chef. National meals (old recipes for kebabs and cakes and cookies) and barbecues are reliable standards here, but we recommend beefsteak with five different sauces. A variety of wines and spirits is also offered. 4Open 11:00 – 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €€. APBSG

264 19 44, www.frans.rs. An elegant restaurant named after the French general, Franchet d’Esperey. It has an incredibly extensive menu with Serbian and international dishes, an excellent selection of wines (over 400 types from all parts of the world) and specialties made of black or white truffles. This restaurant also owns an impressive collection of paintings that decorate the walls.4Open 10:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBASL

Hungry Duck B-3, Ruska 3, (+381) 11 369 49 77, The cool name might be the biggest draw for first time visitors, but this small bistro-style restaurant-cum-wine bar near the Belgrade Fair is a favourite among locals and finding an open seat can pose a problem at any time of day. The menu is full of pastas, grilled dishes and salads - their cylindrical take on Wiener Schnitzel (with cream cheese and red peppers) is especially recommended - and the wine list is even longer, with everything from €6 carafes of table wine to €200 bottle of Moët. This place would undoubtedly be a huge hit with the hipster set were located in Brooklyn.4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €. PAL6 Iguana B-2, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 3283 749. Formerly known as Superspace, one of the Belgrade’s finest jazz clubs, the Iguana restaurant kept the interior of the former club and spiced it up with a unique gastronomic experience. Located at the currently very popular Beton hala complex, the restaurant has a magnificent view of the Sava River and Branko Bridge. The central part of the restaurant is a small stage that hosts jazz gigs each night at around 1900. The music is discreet and perfectly fits the whole ambience. The range of meals on offer on the menu is not that extensive but the mixtures of different flavours make it very special. There is a decent selection of wines available and the friendly staff will make sure that your choice complements your food. For those with a sweet tooth we recommend the restaurant’s famous warm date cake. 4Open 10.00 – 2.00, Sun 10.00 – 12.00. €€. PBRASE Kalemegdanska Terasa B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel.

(+381) 11 328 30 11, www.kalemegdanskaterasa. com. The only restaurant situated within the Belgrade Fortress, famous for its terrace and breathtaking view of the Danube. It has a very pleasing ambiance, excellent cuisine and a wide selection of wines. Reservations are recommended, as the place is often rented out for banquets and cocktail parties.4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBAEL

Klub književnika C-2, Francuska 7, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 31. One of the oldest restaurants in the city centre, the building being old about 150 years. Guests like Alberto Moravia, Jean-Paul Sartre, Richard Burton, Ivo Andrić once made it a meeting point of writers and artists(you needed a membership card to enter!). Restaurant had been redecorated, but has retained the spirit of the old days. It also has a large summer garden.4Open 12:00 – 01:00, Closed Sun. €€€. PBASR Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. (+381) 11 328

89 95, www.little-bay.co.uk. An unusual interior this, reminiscent of an opera setting with the waiters dressed in 18th century costumes. Although the menu is sparse, each carefully-designed dish is exquisitely prepared. The restaurant has both traditional tables and isolated booths named after the world’s greatest composers. During the day you can enjoy famous opera tunes and in the evenings live performances of other popular classics. And the icing on the

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

33

34

Restaurants cake? The food in this restaurant is among the cheapest in town! 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €. PRAEGSB

Loža C-2, Obilićev venac 27, tel. (+381) 11 262 86

85. A well-hidden restaurant on the first storey of an old building on Obilićev venac Street. Upon entering the building, you will find a wine store and a miniature lift that will take you up to the next level. The elegant interior with crystal chandeliers is divided into a restaurant section and a charming café section. This restaurant is located some way from the main street, so there is invariably a table always available, meaning there’s no need to reserve in advance. The food here is first-rate and recommendations from the waiters should be taken seriously since they have inside information about the freshest options available. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PA

Price Guide (Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €15 per person) Mid-range €€ (€8-15 per person) Cheap € (Less than €8 per person)

Madera C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, tel. (+381)

11 323 13 32, www.maderarestoran.com. A renowned Belgrade restaurant with an elegant interior and beautiful terrace located on the periphery of Tašmajdan Park. The food is excellent and apart from the national dishes on the menu the Italian chef has also made sure to include some Italian meals and desserts.4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBAEL

Metropolitan Grill B-2, Milentija Popovića 5 (Hotel

Hyatt), tel. (+381) 11 301 11 40. Although it's a hotel restaurant, it is worth a visit as it offers a new a la carte menu introducing light and seasonal dishes created by the Hyatt culinary team and is a perfect venue for lunch in a relaxed atmosphere. The kitchen serves a wide selection of Serbian and international cuisine, and there's a popular Sunday brunch between noon and 17:00. It also often features guest chef programs, presenting cuisines and dishes from around the world, including Asia, the Mediterranean, the Middle East and Europe. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30. €€€. PAELUSRG

Mythologia C-3, Birčaninova 42, tel. (+381) 11

265 89 11, www.restoranmithologia.com. An elegant restaurant with a spacious, open terrace, this place is favourite with people working for nearby embassies and offices. The menu is an eclectic mixture of international dishes(from cappuccino shrimps to venison fillet in berry-shaped forest fruit) and some traditional Serbian specialities. The restaurant boasts a large wine cellar with over 400 wines from all over the world and if you find it difficult to make your choice, there is a sommelier on hand to help out.4Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PBAS

Opera C-2, Nušićeva 8, tel. (+381) 11 323 87 67.

A charming little restaurant, ideal both for short business lunches and romantic occasions. The classic style furniture with its intricate designs borders on kitsch, but it is nevertheless comfortable to sit on. The food and wine menu is so diverse that everyone can find something to their liking. The waiters are hospitable, but at times overly insistent with their food recommendations. 4Open 11:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. €€. PTUBAS

Pogođena patka (The Shot Duck) C-2, Đure Daničića

13, (+381) 11 334 04 60, www.pogodjenapatka.com. A very nice restaurant in the basement of an old house where Queen Draga Mašin lived before she got married. It is close enough to the city centre for an enjoyable stroll. The clientele varies - from business people to couples. Apart from the duck specialties, they offer a number of meat and fish dishes as well as excellent desserts. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€. PAGBGSR

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Principal - Diners Club B-2, Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11

214 04 67. A floating restaurant with an unforgettable view of old town Belgrade, regardless of whether you are seated inside or on the terrace just above the Sava River, the kind waiters will make sure you spend a perfect afternoon by the water. The menu is extensive with a variety of superblyprepared fish and meat dishes but sometimes they can go a little overboard with the olive oil. The interior is a bit shabby and the toilet tiny but the restaurant is still considered one of the most beautiful in the city. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. APBGE

Ruski car C-2; Obilićev venac 29, tel. (+381) 11 263

58 37. Established in 1830 in the very heart of the city at the corner of Knez Mihailova Street and Obilićev Venac, this is one of Belgrade's most popular meeting places. Recently redecorated, with a large but always crowded summer terrace, Ruski Car has continued to be one of the symbols of the city. Cakes and sweets match the traditionally good coffee, but dont forget the Russian and international cuisine it has on offer.4Open 07:00 – 24:00. €€€. APBS

Whatever @ The Corner C-3, Beogradska 37, tel. (+381) 11 323 64 70, www.nacosku.com. An exquisite restaurant, known not only for its excellent food, but also for its first-rate service and enjoyable ambiance. A place where great attention is paid to details, and where customer satisfaction is the number one priority. Though the menu is somewhat sparse, it features carefully selected belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Mediterranean specialties. This restaurant is ideal both for large groups and romantic couples, and the best tables are those by the window. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12.00 17.00. €€. PATSRG

dining. It has become a favourite all occasion destination in Belgrade and a place where one can eat arguably the best carpaccio in town. 4Open 09:00-01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-01:00. €€. PAS

Žabar A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381) 11 319

Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. (+381) 11

12 26, www.zabar.co.rs. This is one of the most famous restaurants in Belgrade and is situated on a raft on the Danube river quay. It is ideal both for couples and large crowds and guests have the option of isolating themselves in booths. The quality of the food and high prices attract numerous Serbian celebrities. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PALG

Italian

Casa Nova C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 42 A, tel. (+381) 11 303 68 67. A cosy little duplex restaurant, particularly popular among foreigners. The tall windows allow you to observe passers-by even when seated in the upper section. The service is excellent and there is a good selection of Italian wines on offer. The specialty of the house is the Sicilian Wheel - a spicy meat dish that might seem a bit intimidating at first, but is actually just the right size for one reasonably hungry customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PBRAS Košava Trattoria C-1, Kralja Petra 36, tel. (+381)

11 262 73 44, www.trattoriakosava.com. Established in 1982, the Košava Trattoria retains a friendly traditional feel of an original Italian trattoria in the very heart of the city. With its menu of more than 100 mostly Italian and Serbian recipes and attentive waitng staff, Košava combines the 'mamas kitchen' concept with world class

328 30 69. Light Mediterranean cuisine abundant in basil and olive oil is what this establishment offers. The menu includes pastas, meat dishes, a variety of salads and fresh vegetables and they are also famous for their excellent cakes and good music which completes the experience. The waiters are friendly but can be a little slow with the orders when the garden area is full. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat,Sun 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PBASGR

Ottimo C-2, Studentski trg 10, tel. (+381) 11 328 64 54. Situated next to Studenstki Park. A cosy and romantic little restaurant with a multitude of interesting decorations on the walls and one of the most inventive open terrace solutions in town. The menu features a large selection of Italian specialties, including excellent tiramisu that is freshly prepared on the premises. The waiters are efficient and friendly and you can safely rely on their recommendations 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBASG

Panta rei C-1, Tadeuša Košćuška 63, tel. (+381) 11

303 66 98, www.pantarei.co.rs. A recently-renovated restaurant with a contemporary interior. The large windows provide stunning views of the Danube and Zemun. However, you’re in for an unpleasant surprise if you try and sit at one of the tables by the window, because the waiter will most certainly explain to you that it is reserved for Godot and his crowd (i.e., the ones that never turn up). Nevertheless, the tables are arranged in such a way that you will enjoy a beautiful view regardless of where you sit. There are some interesting items on the menu, though while some of the dishes are truly excellent, others are average. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. ABPGS6

Pietro dell Oro D-3, Trnska 2, tel. (+381) 11 344 77 00, www.pietrodelloro.com. This restaurant is staffed with probably the best waiters in town. A truly enjoyable setting, regardless of whether you’re sitting in the upper level or in the attractive, vapour-cooled garden. The food is superbly prepared by an Italian chef but the menu could use a little rejuvenation every once in a while. Be sure to try the panacotta. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTUBAESGR

Japanese

Ikki Sushi Bar C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 46, tel.

(+381) 11 218 41 83, www.ikkibar.com. Here you can try traditional Japanese dishes, green tea and sake. The sushi arrangement is an art form and the chef in this restaurant is a true master of the art. Do not be discouraged by the small, empty area and bar visible from the street - the restaurant is on the upper level. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PUBASG

Lebanese

Beirut Café C-1/2 , Simina 5, (+381) 11 263 0135. Opened last September by a Swedish Lebanese expat, like the owner this Arabic eatery is a peculiar mix of East and West. The single large dining area is open and airy with several nice touches of authentic décor, such as Lebanese-style chandeliers and couches, as well as some cool abstract art, and in the warmer months a large interior courtyard is opened. However, much of the food is belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

35

36

Restaurants unfortunately Lebanese in name only, or at least we've never come across fattoush with yellow peppers or soujuk with mushrooms before - not to mention tortillas masquerading as Arabic flat bread.4Open 09:00 – 24:00. €€ APB

Byblos C-3, Nebojšina 6, (+381) 11 24 41 938. An elegant restaurant with bright colours, good lighting and pictures of Beirut on the walls. The influences of eastern and Mediterranean cuisine are noticeable, but it’s the mezze that makes Lebanese cuisine special. Hot or cold, it is served in small dishes and choosing what to eat is not so easy, but you can always go for humus, falafel, Lebanese bread or baklava with pistachios and mahalabi (cream with pistachios and ouzo). 4Open 12:00 – 24:00. €€€. APBS

Mexican

Burito bar D-2, Kraljice Marije 3, tel. (+381) 11 337

65 46. A snug, dimly-lit restaurant with an interior made entirely out of wood. The waiters will patiently explain the specifics of all the Mexican specialties on offer. As opposed to the original dishes in Mexico, the food here is tolerably spicy and won’t set your lips on fire. The portions are large, and the waiters will let you combine various dishes. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00 €€. PTA

Nachos C-1 Strahinjica Bana 66a, (+381) 11 262 34

33, www.nachos.rs. Located in Belgrade’s celebrated ‘Silicone Valley’ district, where all the beautiful people come to play at night during the weekend, Nachos has a modest interior evoking its cuisine’s Central American origin and also has cow hide adorning one of the walls, just to remind you what you might be eating. You have to go upstairs to eat, downstairs to drink and dance. The Mexican food is superb and can be ordered ultra spicy or not, just as you like it. The grilled pork ribs are one of the menu’s best features and are served with homemade barbeque sauce (which has whiskey in it) and is served with fried potatoes. They only cost 750 dinars to boot. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. €. PBAETRS

Pizzerias

Guli C-2, Skadarska 13, tel. (+381) 11 3237 204,

www.guli.rs. Situated in the middle of bohemian Skadarlija area with its characteristic brick-wood-dim light ambience. Though the interior of this restaurant/pizzeria appears to be modern, the pizzas are still served in a traditional way from the wood-fired brick oven. Besides pizza you can enjoy different types of pastas, meat and fish. The restaurant has a beautiful terrace which is extremely pleasant in summertime. 4Open 12.00 – 00.00 €€. PBRAS

Pomodoro C-2, Hilandarska 32, tel. (+381) 11 334 28 97. Here you can treat yourself to probably the best pizzas in town prepared in a wood-burning stove, of course. There is also an unassuming and airy interior, a short wine list containing just a few exquisite wines and a large selection of non-conventional pizza combinations. The menu also features photographs of each dish.4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 €€. PTUBRASG Pizza Hut C-2, Makedonska 44, tel. (+381) 11 322

13 12. American-style pizzas for those who prefer that sort of experience. The menu also includes salads, pasta and various appetisers, as well as daily specials at reduced prices. The waiters are quick and friendly. 4Open 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBA

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Seafood

Bevanda D-3, Požarevačka 51, tel. (+381) 11 244 74

46. Fresh, non-frozen salt-water fish and seafood prepared in the Dalmatian style. A cosy atmosphere and excellent service. If you are having a romantic dinner with enough money to spend, be sure to try their combined specialty dish, which they will serve on two different plates: salty anchovies in combination with lozova rakija (grape brandy), cold cuttlefish and octopus salad, black and white risotto, mixed shellfish buzara (shellfish in a special sauce). For the main course you should opt for a fresh fish, such as the grouper or St. Pierre. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PBA

Gušti mora A-3, Radnička 27, tel. (+381) 11 355 12 68. Though Belgrade is far from the seaside, Belgraders love sea food and have very high standards when it comes to preparing it. Here you can try fresh saltwater fish, lobster and shellfish prepared in the same style as in the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. The waiters are kind and obliging. Even though the restaurant is located in a rather unattractive part of the city - just next door to a tire repair shop, the good food it offers makes it a very popular place especially among celebrities. Avoid the garden - it’s much nicer inside. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. APBGRS Mag Club A-1, Kej oslobođenja 2c, tel. (+381) 11

269 83 98. If you’re struck by a craving for seafood while strolling along the bank of the Danube in Zemun, this nicelooking white boat is just the place for you. They have an extensive menu and are particularly famous for their cart which displays an assortment of salads and sea food. The best seats are on one of the two open deck areas. The two large rooms in the boat’s interior are perfect for large groups but not for a romantic dinner for two. The service is below the standard expected for this type of restaurant. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. APBGS

Paša A-1, Kej oslobođenja 7, tel. (+381) 11 261 21 19. A floating, river restaurant specialising in freshwater fish caught in the Danube. It has both an enclosed section and an open terrace above the water – which also happens to be a popular resting place for river gulls. The interior is modest, the food served in a straightforward manner and the recipes simple but perfectly wholesome. This is one of the few restaurants in Belgrade where you will get paper napkins instead of the usual cloth ones. Be sure to try the fish chowder and the grilled perch. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTBA Stara koliba B-1, Ušće bb, tel. (+381) 11 311 74 44. Popular with diplomats and politicians, this floating restaurant made of wood and reeds is situated in the most beautiful spot in town, almost on the river mouth itself. If you don't have a reservation, the chances of getting a table on the terrace with the stunning view are next to none. Nevertheless, there is also charm in sitting at the

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants bar surrounding the cooking area, as you can watch the cooks prepare meat and fish dishes. This restaurant’s biggest downside is the poor service. Be prepared to wait for a long time for the waiter even to approach you if you’re not a regular customer. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. APBE

Taverna Kraljice Katarine 26, tel. (+381) 11 354 22 37. This Banovo Brdo restaurant has an inviting atmosphere and is reminiscent of a family house with a garden. The summer ambiance features candle-lit dinners in the garden under grape-vines, while a crackling fire is sure to warm your spirits during the winter. All the dishes are excellent. You should try the salmon in white sauce or the sea perch prepared king-style and make sure you don’t skip the fantastic tiramisu. The best transport solution is to take a taxi, as the restaurant is rather difficult to find. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PBASLR

Serbian

Čubura C-3, Mačvanska 1, tel. (+381) 11 244 07 56. Located in a small group of shops near the Čuburski park, also known as Peyton Place, this restaurant makes the best grilled meats and unquestionably the best ćevapčići (grilled minced-meat fingers) in town. It is just the place for those who prefer their meat without flavour enhancers or sauces spoiling its taste. The interior is rather modest and it is advised that the toilet be used only in emergency situations. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00. €. PTBA Dačo Patrisa Lumumbe 49, tel. (+381) 11 278 24 22. A restaurant that reliably depicts the atmosphere of a real Serbian village, with checked tablecloths, mismatched cutlery and cats and hens roaming around the tables in the garden. You should try the village appetiser, the svadbarski kupus (Wedding Cabbage) and the house wine. Since the restaurant - situated in a remote part of town - is extremely popular, reservations are recommended. 4Open 12:00 24:00, Closed Mon. €€. PTBAS

Kafana A kafana (bistro) is an authentic Belgrade restaurant. The first ever kafana in Belgrade (and Europe) was opened by the Turks at the end of the 16th century, in the Dorćol area of the city. The kafana differs from a standard restaurant in the following ways: ordering food is not obligatory - you can come for only a drink, no scornful looks will be thrown your way if you dip your bread in the grilled meat juice or rest your elbows on the table, loud laughter and emotional outbursts are normal occurrences, the guests address the waiters by their first names, the food is good but never exceptional and the tables are often pushed together for the purposes of socialising... The old rule says that inns are places where business is done, domestic and world politics discussed, (false) information exchanged and sadness cured. So, although the portions are large, much more than meal consumption time is spent in the inns. Traditional kafanas are losing ground to industrial catering facilities and gradually declining in number.

Jevrem C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 36, tel. (+381) 11 328 47 46, www.restoran-jevrem.com. Situated in the city centre, in a house built at the beginning of the last century this restaurant is known for its beautiful terrace and is located well away from city’s noise. Here you will find various Serbian dishes and although they may not be prepared in the most faithful way, you will have the opportunity to try certain meals that are almost impossible to find elsewhere, such as pihtije (jellied pork or duck) or cicvara (a dish made of corn flour, eggs, butter and cheese). The waiters occasionally slip-up by bringing the main course before the guests have finished with their appetisers. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. PBAE

Dva Bela Goluba C-2, Bulevar Despota Stefana

3, (+381) 11 323 9079. One of several traditional Serbian restaurants on the sloping cobbled pedestrian area Skandarlija, Two White Pigeons is arguably the most popular with locals. With only large six-person tables in the main dining area, be prepared to share if you're by yourself or just a couple, and when ordering keep in mind that the portions tend to be absurdly large. Also be aware that if you're asked your nationality it's so the server can go fetch the corresponding miniature flag and plant it in the wooden block at the end of the table - so if you're ashamed of your country, or just don't like the flag, consider lying. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00 €€. PAB

Dva Jelena C-2, Skadarska 32, (+381) 11 232 4885, [email protected], www.dvajelena.rs One of the best known and longest running restaurants in the city, the Two Deer kafana is one of the symbols of Belgrade and more or less a must-see destination for visitors. Originally opened as a bakery in 1832, it was sold by the original owners some 35 years later and changed into a restaurant, which immediately began attracting a mixed bohemian crowd. Besides various expansions, little has changed in the time since, and a full array of hearty traditional Serbian dishes are served in what could easily be mistaken for a hunter's lodge, often accompanied by live music. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00 €€. PABE belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

37

38

Restaurants Price Guide (Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €15 per person) Mid-range €€ (€8-15 per person) Cheap € (Less than €8 per person)

Manjež C-3, Svetozara Markovića 49, tel. (+381) 11 362 11 11. One of the few restaurants in Belgrade that has retained the character of an authentic city bistro and it offers skillfully-prepared Serbian specialties which are difficult to find elsewhere. It has a highly enjoyable atmosphere and a wide diversity of guests - from lawyers rummaging through their files while sipping a cognac to bubbly housewives meeting over coffee to discuss burning global issues. The atmosphere is further enhanced by traditional romantic tunes softly playing in the background. The waiters will gladly put a few tables together for larger groups. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTBASER Opušteno (Laid Back) A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel.

(+381) 11 357 22 58, www.adasafari.co.rs. In the midst of Ada Ciganlija Island is a small lake surrounded by centennial trees and stocked with very fine specimens of carp. Fishermen are only allowed to take a photo with their trophy before they return it to the water. The wooden posts above the lake support the foundation of a restaurant, which is ideal for relaxing over a bowl of fish chowder or plate of roast meat, accompanied by cold house wine from the Rajac Mountain. The only sound you will hear is bird song. There are benches set up on the shore for those who like to play cards over fried picarel fish and beer and children can find entertainment in a small enclosure with goats and ducks. The toilet, located in a separate house on the shore and one of the cleanest in the city, bears the name ‘Even More Laid Back’. 4Open 12:00 - 21:00. €. UBGPAL

Proleće C-2, Vuka Karadžića 12, tel. (+381) 11

263 54 36. A restaurant known for its variety of ‘homecooked’ meals and grilled meats. In spite of the unseemly interior (which the regulars have become quite fond of), discoloured cutlery and the occasional patched tablecloth, Belgraders feel very much at home here. This spot attracts a wide variety of customers - young couples in love, old folks reading the paper, businessmen in suits, penniless students sharing a portion - all united by their mutual craving for a warm, ‘home-cooked’ meal. No music.4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. PBA

Rubin Kneza Višeslava 29, tel. (+381) 11 351 21 23. A sign on the street indicates where to turn for this restaurant, which is well-hidden in the Košutnjak Forest. A view of the city and the Avala Mountain extends from the gorgeous terrace. They have excellent grilled meat and Czech beer. It is most crowded at the weekends during lunchtime, so if you wish to sit on the terrace it is best to make a reservation. It’s a real treat to take a walk after the meal in the surrounding area, where the silence is broken only by singing birds. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. APBGLR Salaš Sinđelićeva 34, tel. (+381) 11 219 03 24.

A wonderful duplex restaurant in an old family house in Gardoš. The interior is decorated in bright colours and floral patterns typifying houses in the province of Vojvodina. The upper level has a breathtaking view of the Danube, stretching over the roofs of Gardoš and for an even more rewarding experience try getting a table on the miniature

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Local Specialties In Serbia, the salad is eaten with the main course. Thanks to greenhouses and imports, one can have tomato or lettuce throughout the year. However, old customs still linger and the most popular winter salads include: roast paprika (pečena paprika), ajvar, sauerkraut and pickles (turšija). Roast paprika is made of large peppers, grilled over coals or on a cooker, peeled and seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt and finely chopped garlic. Ajvar is a savoury local relish made of red peppers and aubergines, roasted, peeled and chopped or minced and sautéed with oil seasonings and garlic. The sauerkraut is prepared by tightly packing cabbage heads, their roots removed, into a plastic barrel and filling the barrel with salted water. The fermented cabbage from the barrel is used to prepare local specialties such as sarma (cabbage rolls), podvarak (cabbage baked in the oven with pork), or is eaten as a salad, chopped and seasoned with dried and ground hot peppers. The sour cabbage juice, brimming with vitamin C, is called rasol and is the local cure for hangovers. Pickles - pickled cucumbers, cauliflower, carrots, peppers and green tomato make great appetizers, as does sauerkraut, particularly when served with straight rakija (brandy) or kuvana rakija (mulled brandy). terrace. The food is decent and the portions large. The waiters are friendly but few in number, so if the restaurant is jam-packed, consistent efforts to get their attention might end in a real mood-spoiler. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PBAE

Srpska kafana C-2, Svetogorska 25, tel. (+381) 11

324 71 97. A legendary Belgrade restaurant where back in the old days, live Gypsy music used to entertain the crowd deep into the night. There is no longer live music, and nowadays the ambiance is more reminiscent of a village setting than of a town. The cuisine features national specialties (both home-cooked and grilled) at fairly low prices. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. APG

Stara carinarnica Kej oslobođenja 31, tel. (+381) 11 261 69 30. It is situated in a 1723 building which used to be an Austro-Hungarian customs house. The interior is dominated by brick domes and photographs of old-town Zemun. The restaurant is renowned for its variety of grilled meat and home-cooked dishes. On Tuesdays and Fridays, Skala - one of the best orchestras in town - performs here, and such particular nights tend to be very loud and jovial, with musicians roaming from table to table, so you can order a song if you wish.4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. APBEG Stara Hercegovina D-2, Carigradska 36, tel. (+381) 11 324 58 56. An authentic Belgrade ale-house, where you can enjoy draught beer, smoked ribs off the grill, and knuckle-of-pork covered in sour cabbage leaves and served with horseradish. It’s difficult to find a table during lunchtime and since the poor ventilation will leave you smelling like your dinner even after you have left, this restaurant is not exactly the best choice for a meal before the theatre.4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. €. PBARS Tabor Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 348, tel. (+381)

11 241 24 64, www.restorantabor.com. A famous restaurant with Serbian specialties, and a true favourite

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

them. The place is already very popular, so check ahead. 4Open: 12:00 - 02:30. €€. PBARLR

Milagro Kej Oslobodjenja 55, tel. (+381) 11 316

with Belgraders. Be sure to try the spicy potatoes, the čačanski uštipci (Čačak-style minced meat) and quince rakija. Guests also have the option of preparing their own meat on a volcanic rock. You should probably avoid dishes that don’t fit the ambiance, such as gnocchi or spaghetti. Their musicians are among the best in town and are also surprisingly unobtrusive.4Open 10:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. PTBAEL

Zlatnik Slavonska 26, tel. (+381) 11 316 62 56. This

is both a Serbian cuisine restaurant and a fish restaurant, located in the Zlatnik Hotel in Zemun. Its peaceful setting far from the racket of the city - makes it ideal for important business lunches. The service is exceptional, the noodles in the soup are homemade, and their turkey with mlinci (type of pasta) is by far the best in town. 4Open 06:30 24:00. €€. PTBALRS

Zornića kuća (The Zornić family house , Živorada

Jankovića 13 (Baćevac village, Barajevo), tel. (+381) 11 254 02 54, www.zornicakuca.rs. When you feel you have had enough of the hubbub and the smog of the city, when you wish to indulge in traditional dishes made of organically grown produce and then succumb freely to postprandial somnolence, a trip to Zornića Kuća will set things right. Half an hour ride from the centre of the city, located some 5km after the exit from the Ibarska motorway in the direction of Baćevac village, the farm spreads out over three hectares and features a restaurant, souvenir shop, children’s playground, as well as stables with horses, cows, sheep and goats. You can enjoy delicious food, over 30 kinds of rakija and wine, the chirrup of the birds, and stories about the old tools and items used in the village once upon a time. Reservations required on weekends. 4Open 11:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00, Closed Mon. €€. P TARBSL 6.

Spanish

Cantina de Frida B-2 Karađorđeva 2-4, Beton hala, tel. (+381) 11 218 11 20,[email protected], www.cantinadefride.com. New bar-restaurant located on the Sava pier. The interior decoration unifies lively colours and details associated with Mexico and the life of the famous artist, Frida Kahlo. The lively colours repeat themselves on the plates, too. The core offering on the menu is tapas: hot or cold and based on meat or sea food. If you decide to share your meal with your companion, the restaurant also offers large tapas. The experienced waiters are there to help you make the right choice of meal and sauce, allowing you to decide exactly how spicy you want your dish to be. Don’t miss Diego’s pancakes, made just like Frida used to cook belgrade.inyourpocket.com

01 60, www.milagrosq.rs. Located in Zemun, on the bank of the Danube, in a pleasing ambience of a new, airy two-storied house with lots of windows. Dark wood, stone, leather and wrought iron create an elegant décor. The restaurant is divided in several sections and everyone will find a spot to their liking. There is also a terrace on the first floor with a great view of the Danube. You can try paella and tortilla made to original recipes as the restaurant is owned by a former FC Barcelona football player. The menu also features chuletón - T-bone steak served on a hot plate with a burner so you can cook it to your preference. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. TARBES

Fast food Čobanov odmor D-3, Vojvode Šupljikca 34, tel.

(+381) 11 245 09 47, www.cobanovodmor.com. Traditional Serbian fast food in folklore-style kiosks. They deliver all over town. 4Open 24 hrs. Also at Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 141, tel. 213 45 77. €. S

Ipanema C-1, Strahinjića Bana 68, tel. 328 30 69.

Superbly prepared Italian take-out: sandwiches, pasta, profiteroles, tiramisu. 4Open 08:00 - 17:00. €. S

Loki C-1, Corner of Kralja Petra and Gospodar Jovanova St. An extremely popular fast-food joint for grilled-meat lovers. People often end up eating here after a night in the town. 4Open 24 hrs. €. S McDonald’s A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 85a, tel.

(+381) 11 310 73 78. Drive-in. 4 Open 08:00 24:00. Also at Deligradska 2, tel. 265 64 91. Terazije 27, tel. 323 52 97. €. PTUBASL

Pekara Toma C-2, Kolarčeva 6-8, tel. 263 63 43,

www.tomacentar.co.rs. This bakery offers sandwiches, salads, pizzas, cakes, burek (pie made with phyllo dough) and all kinds of traditional Serbian pastry. 4Open 24 hrs. €. PAS

Peking C-2, Vuka Karadžića 2, tel. 218 19 31, www. peking.co.rs. Belgrade’s first ever Chinese restaurant has adapted some simple yet delicious Chinese recipes for those who prefer to eat on the go or order takeaway food. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00-23:00. €€. AS Sandwich King C-2, Savska Trg 1, +381 66 20 20 20, [email protected] Founded in Eastern Canada in 1996, this fast growing chain has already managed to bring its fresh-made sandwich franchise to Serbia. Located opposite the central train station and open around the clock, it's definitely a more appealing option than most of the other eateries in the area. We also give them high marks for sense of humour, with South Park characters Terrance and Phillip representing the lone Canadian sandwich on the internationally themed (and English language) menu. 4Open 00:00-24:00 € PALS April - May 2010

39

40

CAFÉS Grand pleasure C-2, Vasina 3, tel. (+381) 11 262 74

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

24. A new chain of cafés with a wide variety of take-away coffees. Those wishing to have their coffee on the premises of the café can enjoy its delightful ambiance, providing there’s a table available. It’s a good place to start the day, as they also offer sandwiches, salads, fruit smoothies and freshlysqueezed orange juice. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PBRASG

R Internet

B Terrace

Greenet C-2, Nušićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 323 84

6 Animal friendly

Amsterdam A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb, tel. (+381) 11

319 49 71, The most exquisite terrace on the river, famous for attracting the city’s most beautiful women. The restaurant offers light meals and cakes, though you should avoid eating here unless you are extremely hungry, as the prices are known to exceed the quality of the food. The best tables can usually be found vacant because they are reserved for friends of the establishment that hardly ever stop by. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00. PBAEL

Amphora A-1, B ul eva r M iha jla Pup i n a b b, te l.

(+381) 11 269 97 89. A spacious and stylish floating café/restaurant with a strained atmosphere due to the number of people who go there just to be seen. The section overlooking the river is actually the dining area and the food is pretty decent. You can also sit around the fireplace one of the comfortable sofas with a cup of coffee or cocktail in hand and watch the boats go by. It’s definitely one of the nicest floating restaurants in Belgrade. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. PB A L

Bistro Pastis C-1, Strahinjića Bana 52b, tel. (+381) 11

328 81 88, www.elixir.rs. One of the most popular cafes in ‘Silicone Valley’. Many celebrities who live nearby like to come here, and the small barrels used for tables in the outdoor section are favourite places for posing next to for the young, besuited executives who flock to the cafe as well. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10.00 – 01.00. BGRTA

Ex M C-2, Palmotićeva 27, tel. (+381) 11 323 33 82. The deep shade of the linden tree in a tiny park hides one of the most popular cafes in the city centre. It is a favourite spot for those who work in advertising agencies, cultural facilities, and all others who have the freedom to extend their lunch break and can afford to wait for the waiter to bring their order. If you have enough time on your hands, you can admire the ability of Belgraders to prolong the act of drinking an espresso into a half-hour event. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00. PB Favela C-1, Miročka 3, tel. (+381) 11 324 93 56. A

74, www.greenet.co.rs. A snug little café with the most extensive choice of coffee in town. The specialty of the house is the mocha. Take-away coffee is also served in heatconserving cups and you can also purchase various blends of ground coffee to prepare at home. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 00:30. PBASR

Kandahar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 48, tel. (+381) 11

291 03 11. A café named after the city in Afghanistan. The interior is decorated in the Oriental style and filled with colourful pillows and the exterior features an unusual open terrace with low tables and canopies. With a large selection of tea blends and alcoholic beverages, this is one of the few spots in town where you can try real Turkish coffee and Yeni Raki. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. PBA

Lime Café C-2, Obilićev Venac 1 , Located on a side street

just off of Republic Square, this trendy new coffeehouse offers a pleasant enough atmosphere to go with your daily caffeine fix. The interior is modern and stretches across three different levels, with additional seating in the garden outside. There are also free laptops to go along with the free Wi-Fi, and several large LCD screens are usually tuned into some sporting event or other. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBASR

Mama’s Biscuit House C-1, Strahinjića Bana 72a, tel. (+381) 11 328 38 05, www.mammashouse.co.rs. Offers a wide variety of cakes and other sweet treats. Their terrace is a favourite spot for gazing at girls strolling down the street commonly known (for obvious reasons) as 'Silicone Valley'. As with most of the cafés in this part of town, Mamma's doubles as a trendy bar once the sun goes down.4Open 09:00 - 01:00. PTBA Sweet cafe C-2, Zadarska 2, tel. (+381) 11 303 64 61.

A great place for a chat with your friends and an excellent spot to take a break after a tour round Kosančićev venac. Coffee enthusiasts will be pleased with the café menu - offering 40 different kinds of caffeine fix. The café is on three levels, the lowest overlookng a busy crossroads, and the highest being the smallest and cosiest. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. A BGR6

very popular café, very close to the so called Silicon Valley (Strahinjića bana Street), which is famous for the homemade wine that is available exclusively in the establishment. Carefully chosen music, a quiet location, a green gardenterrace in Belgrade city centre with a touch of Brazilian class are a real treat.4Open: 09:00 - 23:00. RB

Galerija Čunarska 1, tel. (+381) 11 261 20 96. The most romantic café in town, situated in Gardoš - Zemun’s popular promenade - near the Danube quay. If a particular woman has not yet fallen under your charms, this place is sure to sweep her off her feet. The music played in the background is jazz and the walls are bedecked with up-for-sale paintings by various up-and-coming artists. They also serve food, which you can enjoy on the beautiful open terrace or, on rainy days, in the wine cellar. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00. B A Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Cafe-restaurant Snežana in Knez Mihjajlova Street

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

R Internet

B Terrace

6 Animal friendly Belgrade is famous for its exciting nightlife. Wherever you go, you’ll be greeted by a positive vibe that will make you feel at home, as if among friends. People go out on all nights of the week and they do so spontaneously - at any given time and regardless of how much work they have the following day. The most exciting and busiest nights out on the town are not dictated by the day of the week but by circumstances and events. Floating river clubs are a special feature of the city’s nightlife. They vary in size, customer capacity and type of music played. As they are far from residential zones, the party can last till dawn, especially if the guests are in good spirits.

Bars & Pubs

Amarone Wine Bar C-2, Gospodar Jovanova 56, tel.+381 60 504 04 55. An immensely popular wine bar located in old town, there's a decent - if not overwhelming - selection of wines from around the world, from European mainstays Italy, France and Spain, to up-and-coming new world countries like the US, Chile and Australia. The low wood tables and chairs aren't the most comfortable in the world but do add nicely to the overall air of rustic ambiance. It's a good idea to make reservations at the weekends, when DJs spin increasingly up-tempo beats from atop a couple of old wine barrels. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. PAER AUR - Klub svetskih putnika C-2, Bulevar Despota

Cruise Sava Quay (block 70), tel. (+381) 11 215 75 10, www.cruise.rs. A floating cocktail bar on the Sava. During the day, it’s a casual spot beside the river for drinks and decent food prepared on the premises, and with soft music in the background. In the evenings, it turns into a loud place bursting with life, with cocktails prepared by one of the best barmen in town. It’s pretty much impossible to order a cocktail here which the waiters haven’t heard of. The staff are friendly and greet costumers with broad smiles on their faces. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. PTBR A SG Cvijećara D-1 Vojvode Dobrnjca 34, (+381) 63 57 71 29. A very interesting spot. Ideal for those who like to socialize, but a bad choice for city posers. The wood and brick interior is abundantly decorated with cheerful flower arrangements which you can not escape even in the toilets. The guests have a wide variety of beer to chose from, a jukebox, pin-ball machine, table football and darts. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00. P6B Marshall Pub D-1 Ćirila i Metodija 2, (+381) 11 386 24 48. The perfect place for those who like English pubs. The primarily wooden interior features a display of around fifty beer mugs from all over the globe. Apart from the good choice of draught and bottled beer, they offer snacks pizzas, salads, sandwiches... During the day most of the visitors are students from near-by university... 4Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00-01:00 . P A BE Mercedes bar C-2, Dalmatinska 3, tel. (+381) 11 324 34 03. Everything in this café, which used to be a Mercedes

Stefana 7/1, tel. (+381) 11 324 23 03, www.aur-usp. rs. An unusual venue, well hidden in the cellar of a residential building. The diversely decorated rooms and a cat lounging around on the heater make the atmosphere here very cosy. You can also skim through their collection of books on exotic, far-away lands, or have a sandwich during the day. This venue also hosts private parties in the evenings. 4Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PEAR6

Bizzare C-2 Gospodar Jevremova. A small café which is favourite for those who live close by, Bizzare is an ideal place to go for chatting over a cup of coffee during the daytime, or for cocktails to the beat of house music in the evenings. It takes a 4-5 minute stroll to get there from the city centre. Together with the outdoor space of the adjoining café, this is a safe haven for those who don’t fancy the ostentatious atmosphere of the near-by street, Strahinjića Bana. If circumstances allow, the fun-loving waiters will dance on their own in the empty café, and if there’s a crowd, the guests will dance on the street with their drinks in hand. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00. B Bordel C-1 Gospodar Jevremova 6, tel +381 63 351 388 A dark and moody lounge-type affair in old town, Bordel is one of our favourite places to grab a couple of post-dinner drinks before moving on to a proper club. DJs spin a wide mix of music ranging from acid jazz and soul during the day to house and NuDisco as the night wears on. If possible try to get a table upstairs where the seats are more comfortable, and atmosphere a little more intimate.4Open 10:00 - 02:00. RP belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Photo by: Srđan Kalinić

April - May 2010

41

42

Nightlife Belgrade, the Three Carrots boasts uber friendly bar staff, the odd complimentary drink for the regulars perched up on the stools next to the beer taps and is arguably the one place you can go to on your own in the city without feeling like a social leper. Though it is a magnet for Belgrade’s ex-pat community, the locals still very much form the majority of the clientele, which is not always the case in other capitals. 4Open 10:00 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. AGPL

Clubs

Photo by: Srđan Kalinić parts shop, is reminiscent of the world famous automobile manufacturer. The fully stocked bar serves a variety of alcoholic drinks as well as impressively fancy cocktails and aromatized coffee. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00. BPER6

Plato C-2, Vasina 19, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 10. Here you

can find a bookstore, restaurant, and club with live music (mostly jazz and Latino) - all in one. The outdoor terrace is well-known for its lounge chairs and laid-back atmosphere, but it also includes a section with standard chairs too. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PBAREG

Rakia bar C-2, Dobračina 5, tel. (+381) 11 328 61 19, www.rakiabar.com. A tiny bar that serves 130 different types of Serbian rakija (brandy), all different in aroma, strength and therapeutic qualities and is served with a variety of snacks. Though this is ideally the place to stop by on your way to dinner for a shot or two to boost your appetite, the cheerful laughter of the guests will tell you that stopping after the first round is no easy task, and that you are likely to forget all about your original plans for the evening. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PBA The Three Carrots Irish pub C-2, Kneza Miloša 16,

tel. (+381) 11 268 37 48. Perhaps the only real ‘pub’ in

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Akademija C-2, Rajićeva 10, tel. (+381) 64 647 88 70, www.akademija.net. The legendary Belgrade underground club - considered among the top ten in Europe during the 1980s. It is situated in the dark basement of the Fine Arts College. The space is divided into two different clubs - one large and one small - playing different kinds of music. The DJs perform in a metal cage, there are pin-ball machines in the corners, and the most popular drink is beer. Local alternative bands and foreign rock bands perform here. Admission €2.5-5.5.4Open 22:00 - 04:00. PE Bitef Art café C-2, Skver Mire Trailović 1, tel. (+381) 63

59 42 94, www.bitefartcafe.co.rs. With live performances from some great club bands, this club is the all-time favourite of funk, soul and jazz enthusiasts in the city. Even though the space is somewhat confined, there’s enough room to sit or stand. The karaoke evenings are especially popular, and they include both competitions and performances. 4Open 22:00 - 04:00. PAE

Blaywatch A-1, Kej oslobođenja bb. A popular, floating

night club on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all the beautiful people in attendance. There is a small pool in the very centre of the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there outfits dancing above it. A variety of music is played, from international dance hits to local turbo-folk tunes which may strain the unaccustomed ear. The bouncers sometimes seem to take great pleasure in refusing to let people into the club, especially those wearing trainers. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00, Closed Sun. BEL

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Brodić B-3 Belgrade Fair, A popular, floating night club

on the river. Foreigners like to come here for all the beautiful people in attendance. There is a small pool in the very centre of the club, with girls in skimpy, barely-there outfits dancing above it. A variety of music is played, from international dance hits to local turbo-folk tunes which may strain the unaccustomed ear. The bouncers sometimes seem to take great pleasure in refusing to let people into the club, especially those wearing trainers. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. BS Gajba C-3, Kneginje Zorke 71, tel. (+381) 11 344 99 10. A spot for socializing for those who like to share a smile and their good mood with others. The upper level looks like a large living room and makes you feel as if you are at a private party. They play funk, reggae and other music you can talk over. The lower level looks like a bar - it has a pin-ball machine in the corner, and there are frequent performances by DJs. Many who stop by to "warm up" for their night on the town end up staying here because of the good atmosphere. Can get a bit claustrophobic because of the limited space. 4Open 12:00 - 03:00. BPR6

Havana C-2, Nikole Spasića 1, tel. (+381) 11 328 31 08. This was once one of Belgrade’s most beautiful cafés. In the course of the past few years it’s become a little shabby. However, it still manages to attract attention with its massive bar area and huge selection of beverages from all parts of the world. The dance evenings are particularly popular: the Salsa evening is on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and the Argentine Tango evening on Thursday. A snug dance podium and dim lighting make it the perfect place for dance enthusiasts. During summer, the dancing takes place out in the open - on the attractive and spacious patio.4Open 10:00 - 04:00. PBA Hua Hua A-3, Ada Ciganlija bb, tel. (+381) 63 239 373,

(+381) 63 380 205 One of Belgrade's more unpretentious and raucous floating riverboat clubs, it may not look like much from the outside, but most nights of the week you're likely find it packed wall-to-swaying-wall with a cross-section of attractive Serbian party-goers dancing to a live band. Located on Ada Ciganlija, it's best reached by taxi, especially since the drinks tend to come served by the bottle rather than the glass.

Idiot C-2, Dalmatinska 13. This miniature club is a frequent meeting place for artists and other wacky individuals. It is often so packed that people have to stand in the street holding their drinks. During the day, its small open terrace looking out to the Botanical Gardens is frequently visited by students having their first “morning coffee” at around 14:00. 4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PB Magacin 3 B-2, Karađorđeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 06271

58 48. This is arguably the most exclusive night club in town and a real magnet for city slickers and women who like to be seen in up market places. The arrogant security staff will make it as difficult as possible for you to get in, especially if you don’t have a reservation. But if you do manage to get passed them, you will be greeted by an unusual interior, combining the coarseness of concrete walls with the delicacy of satin curtains and silver candle holders. The unisex restroom provides additional opportunities for meeting people in an unusual way. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. PA

Mr Stefan Brown C-2, Nemanjina 4, tel. (+381) 65 556 64 56, www.mrstefanbaun.rs Located on the ninth storey of a commercial building. Here you will find a lovely view of the city, different types of cocktails, and a large bar in the centre of the club, sturdy enough to endure the weight of the barmen and dancing guests. The club features various theme nights depending on the day of the week, but it’s definitely not an appropriate spot for those below the age of twenty. The club is often packed, so try to get there before 01:00, or they might not let you in. 4Open 23:00 - 07:00. PB belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

43

44

Nightlife Casinos Grand Casino A-1, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3, tel. 220 28 00, www.casino-beograd.com. The largest area offering games of chance in South-Eastern Europe is located in Hotel Jugoslavija, on the Danube Quay. Besides tables (Black Jack, Roulette, Poker, Three Cards Poker, Punto Banco, Texas Hold’em) and slot machines, the complex provides three excuisite restaurants, Roulette Bar, Piano Bar, a VIP area and luxury jewelry Gift Shop. 4Open 24hrs. PUKAEL Ona a ne neka druga Grobljanska 9, tel. (+381) 63 745 40 00. A small bistro in the Gardoš area of Zemun, where good times are guaranteed. It is dedicated to women and men are only allowed to come in if they have female companion. The waiters are all men. Women (only) are allowed to break glasses and give waiters an appreciative pinch. The interior is quite charming, and the fact that the bistro is often jam-packed and stuffy doesn’t stop the guests from getting up on the benches and dancing with joy to the sounds of live music that is frequently performed here.4Open 21:00 - 04:00, Closed Mon, Tue. PUBEAL Plastic C-2, Corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska St, tel.

(+381) 11 3245 437, www.clubplastic.rs. Famous for its futuristic setting and pulsating sounds of of electronic music often played by foreign DJs, Plastic is one of the most popular places among Belgrade*s youth. Live gigs are also performed here occasionally. The club is divided into two levels. The lower, bigger level Plastic is mostly frequented by a younger crowd who enjoy listening to the sounds of mainstream house, pop and R&B. The upper level, Mint, is kind of a lounge bar where you will find fans of all ages who are into electronic music. The club is so popular that there is often a swarm of people in front waiting to try and get in. Entrance fees depend on the event. 4Open 22:30 – 06.00. PAE

actually know one another personaly. A 3€ music charge is added to the bill.4Open 12:00 - 02:00. PBAE

ŠKD C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 7, tel. (+381) 69 699 096.

An underground club - both figuratively and literally - other than a small plaque with the Cyrillic letters ШКД just outside the basement-level door, there's little to clue you on the party going on inside. Dark and smokey with low-ceilings and a small dance floor, things don't get going here till well after midnight. 4Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBAE

Tramvaj D-3, Ruzveltova 2, tel. (+381) 11 380 82 69. Live band performances each and every night of the week - jazz, blues, funk and Latino music. The beer is cheap, and the people who come here are mainly students looking for a fun night out. A laid-back atmosphere but non-smokers may find this place stuffy bit. 4Open 08:00 - 04:00. PBAE

The Tube C-2, Simina 21, tel. (+381) 64 508 22 72, www. thetube.rs. Located in the basement/former nuclear shelter of a postwar building in downtown Belgrade. The Architect, Đorđe Gec has created areas which interconnect with one another fluidly throughot the whole of the 350m² of space. The music is eclectic but mostly based on funk, house, nu jazz and techno played by famous foreign and Serbian DJs. The admission charge depends on the event, but it is free most of the time. 4Open 22.00 – 05.00. PAE

Povetarac B-2, Brodarska bb, tel. (+381) 63 57 71 32.

An old cargo ship permanently docked on the bank of the Sava river. The deck is perfect place to loaf around while enjoying a beer and listening to terrific music. The people are upbeat and the atmosphere is cosy. The evenings are reserved for DJ performances and occasionaly live music. On rainy days, the fun continues in the ship hull. Since it is situated in a rather remote part of the river bank-away from public transport, the punters have to rely on taxis to get there. 4Open 12:00 - 04:00 (20:00 - 04:00 at winter). PBGE

Reka Kej oslobođenja 73b, tel. (+381) 11 261 16 25, www. reka.co.rs. A fish restaurant in Zemun on the bank of the Danube and more famous for the good time it offers than for its cuisine. The restaurant is very popular, so it is advisible to make a reservation. There is live music every night, which consist mainly of Serbian and international pop hits which get plenty of the customers onto their feet. The friendly atmosphere makes it seem as if the guests

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

What to see

200 dinars. The market is lined with bakeries, pastry houses, restaurants and small shops. Try and visit this wonderful place before the end of the year as proposed renovations aim to make it look like a supermarket with a glass facade. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00

Kosančićev Venac Street B-2. A stroll down this cobbled

street will conjure up the spirit of Old Belgrade. It is located on a hill above the Sava River Port, where a Serbian settlement developed outside the fortress walls in the Middle Ages. Today, it features art studios, galleries, cafés, the main building of the College of Arts and the remains of the National Library, which was destroyed in 1941 by Luftwaffe bombing and an entire collection of books and priceless medieval manuscripts in the Cyrillic alphabet along with it. The street is named after a Serbian hero from the Kosovo Battle of 1389.

Essential Belgrade

Belgrade fortress B-1. Located on a hill overlooking the

confluence of the Sava River and the Danube. The Romans were the first to build a fort (castrum) on this site and in the late 1st century AD, it became the HQ of the IV Flavian Legion. Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests, the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, rebuilt and restructured. It took on its present shape round the end of the 18th century, but again, the wars that followed destroyed nearly all the buildings. The Belgrade Fortress consists of Upper Town, Lower Town and Kalemegdan Park. Kalemegdan Park was created as late as the 19th century on a plateau in front of the fortress, which was cleared for centuries to allow for an unobstructed view of the advancing enemy. The park is popular because of its many shaded benches, random sculptures, an art pavilion, zoo, amusement park and souvenir vendors. It is a favourite haunt for chess players, squirrels and couples in love. Most of the preserved fortress ramparts and gates are located in the Upper Town, as well as the Military Museum, St. Petka and Ružica churches, Roman Well (an intriguing building whose eerie waters have claimed many lives) and the symbol of Belgrade - Pobednik (The Victor). The plateau with the statue of Pobednik offers stunning views over the rivers and incredible sunsets. The Lower Town on the banks of the Danube was the main city centre in the Middle Ages. It was surrounded by walls and had a port. Only a few buildings remain today: Kula Nebojša (Daredevil Tower) from 1460, the Turkish Bath from the 18th century (which today houses a planetarium) and the Gate of Carl VI from 1736. No admission fee. 4Open 24 hrs.

Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb. The biggest open-air market in Belgrade is a vibrant place which valiantly fights off the competition from the supermarkets. Besides the obvious fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, eggs, fish and seafood, honey, pickles and craftwork, you will find national delicacies such as ‘sir’ (cottage cheese) and ‘kajmak’ (clotted cream). Take a walk through the colourful stands, chat with the vendors and you will be given fruit, cheese or prosciutto to taste for free. You will also learn that fruit and vegetables of perfect shape and colour, that have come straight from greenhouses and ‘have not seen the light of day’ are haughtily disdained. Those with a beautifully fresh scent, sold by elderly women in headscarves, are vastly preferred. If you get hungry, you can buy grilled lobster and a bread roll for belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Knez Mihailova Street C-2. The main promenade and shopping zone. A pedestrian area, it stretches between Terazije and Kalemegdan Park. It is named after Prince Mihailo Obrenović, the most enlightened ruler of modern Serbia and the younger son of Prince Miloš. He came to the throne after his father’s death in 1860 and was assassinated during a stroll through Košutnjak Park in 1868. Buildings and mansions erected in the late 19th century adorn the street.

Republic Square C-2. The main city square which features

the National Theatre (completed in 1869), the National Museumand a monument to Prince Mihailo, which was erected in 1882. The area is popular with Belgraders as a meeting point. It was once the location of the infamous Stambol Gate, which was the main entrance to the Belgrade Fortress. Today this square hosts concerts, demonstrations and various other events. The National Museum is closed to visitors because it does not have the right conditions for displaying the artefacts and the current reconstruction process will take several years. So, unfortunately you will not be able to see the large collection of international paintings (particularly of the impressionists) stored at the museum, or its most valued treasure - Miroslavljevo jevanđelje (the Miroslav Gospel), the oldest preserved manuscript in the Serbian Cyrillic alphabet (from 1190) with its very rich adornments.

April - May 2010

45

46

What to see some time now but is well worth a visit because Gardoš, an old part of Zemun, is such a quaint and romantic place. Only the twittering of swallows interrupts the calm of the narrow, cobbled streets and rows of low-slung houses. Gardoš features a broad range of small cafés and fish restaurants and the plateau in front of the tower offers magnificent views of the city.

Princess Ljubica’s Residence B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića 8, tel. (+381) 11 263 82 64. A representative building dating from the first half of the 19th century. Built on the orders of Prince Miloš Obrenović for his family, Princess Ljubica and sons Milan and Mihailo, and completed in 1831. The permanent exhibition includes original furniture made in various styles of the 19th century: Biedermaier, Neo-Baroque, Neo-Rococo and Oriental. It hosts themed exhibitions in the basement, in the Vaults Hall. Admission 100 dinars, students, pupils, unemployed and pensioners 50 dinars, children under 7 admission free. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon. Royal compound Located on top of Dedinje hill, the compound covers an area of 135 hectares. It includes a Royal Palace, which was completed in 1929, and a White Palace that was finished in 1936 and was intended for the King’s sons, along with service buildings. A tour of the royal compound includes a visit to the representative sections of both palaces (and a display of artwork by Poussin, Breughel, Canaletto, Veronese, Rembrandt), a chapel, royal park and the grave of Davorjanka Paunović (the secretary to and greatest love of Josip Broz Tito, who abolished the monarchy and moved into the royal compound when he came to power). Nowadays, this is again one of the Karađorđević family’s homes. They are: HRH Crown

Jewish Belgrade Skadarlija C-2, Skadarska Street. A vintage street that

dates from the late 19th century. This steep cobbled area is dotted with famous Belgrade taverns: Dva jelena (The Two Deers), Tri šešira (The Three Hats), Dva bela goluba (The Two White Pigeons), Zlatni bokal (The Golden Jug), Ima dana (There’s Time), Šešir moj (This Hat of Mine), galleries, antiques and souvenir shops. In the early 20th century, it became a hub for the arts and artists in Belgrade, a bohemian quarter drawing poets, journalists, painters, and actors. Today, its guests are mostly tourists whose presence accounts for the higher prices and removal of many authentic Serbian dishes from the menus. The evening is the best time for a visit, when live traditional Serbian music spills from all tavern doors. The great atmosphere will take your attention away from run of the mill food and indifferent waiters.

Historic buildings

Kafana ‘?’ B-2, Kralja Petra 6. This authentic Serbian tavern of an unusual name is located in one of the oldest houses in the city. Erected in 1823, it opened as a tavern in 1826, and was the first to install a billiard table in Belgrade, in 1834. There is still a wood stove for cooking beans and roasting potatoes in one of the corners. Great for national cuisine and draught beer. The tavern has a summer terrace, and you can always hear the lively buzz of conversation. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. PBA

Millennium Tower Located on Gardoš, approached by a path leading from Grobljanska Street, Millennium Tower was built by the Hungarians in 1896 to celebrate a thousand years of their presence in the Pannonian Plain. Four such towers were erected on the border and this one marks the southernmost corner of the Austro-Hungarian empire. It was built on the ruins of a 15th century fortress and has been closed to the public for Belgrade In Your Pocket 

The Book of Esther is recited in Belgrade on the 15th day of Adar (Shushan Purim). Ashkenazi Jews, who migrated from central Europe, settled over the centuries along the Sava River. Following the 1492 expulsion from Spain, the Sephardic Jews settled in the Belgrade area of Dorćol. Just before WW2, the Belgrade Jews, like Serbs, were divided over their loyalties to the King and to Communism. There were divisions even among Jewish masons, some of whom belonged to the Serbian Lodge and others to Jewish Bene Berith Lodge in Belgrade. During WW2, under German occupation, Belgrade Jews suffered a terrible fate and the city underwent the infamy of being the first in Europe to be proclaimed as Judenfrei. The Baruh Brothers Choir, founded in 1879 as a Serbo-Jewish Singing Society, is still active. Before WW2, the Jewish community in Belgrade was about 12,000 strong, and today about 2,200 Jews live in Belgrade Jewish Cemetery D-2, Mije Kovačevića 1, tel. 276 82 50. A Sephardic Cemetery dating from 1888, it was later expanded and became Jewish Cemetery. The Ashkenazi Cemetery, located across the road in the New Cemetery, is no longer in function. Jewish Community of Belgrade C-1 (founded in 1866), Kralja Petra 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 42 89 Jewish Community of Zemun (founded in 1739), Dubrovačka 21, tel. (+381) 11 19 56 26 Jewish Historical Museum C-1, Kralja Petra 71a, tel. (+381) 11 262 26 34. 4Open 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Synagogue C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 19. Built in 1926 by the Ashkenazi Jews.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

What to see Prince Aleksandar II, Princess Katherine, Hereditary Prince Petar and Princes Filip and Aleksandar. The guided tour takes 2 hours. Information and registration at: Tourist Information Centre, Makedonska 5, tel. (+381) 11 334 34 60.

Historic Churches

St. Mark’s Church C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 17.

Constructed between 1931 and 1940 in the Serbo-Byzantine style, next to an old church from 1835 which was destroyed during bombing in 1941. The decoration of the church interior was abandoned due to the war and it is still unfinished. The church houses some of the most valuable Serbian icons and a sarcophagus with the remains of Serbian Emperor Stefan Dušan inside.

St. Petka’s Chapel B-1, Belgrade Fortress. This

contemporary church was built in 1937, above a miraculous spring. In the Middle Ages, this was the site of a church where the holy remains of St. Petka’s (Paraskevi) were placed until 1521. The chapel still guards the saint’s hand, and the ill come to wash their faces during spring. St Petka is much venerated among Belgraders.

St. Sava Temple C-3, Svetosavski trg. St. Sava

(1169-1236) was the first Archbishop of Serbia. The temple is built on the site where his remains were burned by the Ottoman Turks in 1594. The design to build the temple was created in 1894 and the construction began in 1936, only to be interrupted with Germany’s attack on Yugoslavia in 1941. It recommenced in 1985, on securing consent from the state. The interior of the church is currently being decorated. St. Sava Temple is the largest place of worship for the Serbian people and can receive 10,000 people at any one time. Its base is 91 x 81m, and its central dome, weighing 4,000 tons, is 70m high, with the main gold-plated

Balon Servis Salvadora Aljendea br. 5, tel. (+381) 64 822 0408, [email protected], www.balonservis.rs Take in the views of Belgrade from 1,000m above with a 60-90 minute ride in a hot air balloon. Pricing depends on the number of passengers (with a capacity of up to four), and trips are available every day of the year, weather permitting. Call for more information. cross extending for another 12m, making it the highest peak in Belgrade.

Cathedral Church B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića bb. The main church in the city, dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel. The present church (from 1845) was built on the site of a former cathedral, dating from the 16th century, which was repeatedly demolished and desecrated by the Ottoman Turks. The church contains the holy remains of the Serbian saint Emperor Uroš (the last of Nemanjić Royal house) and it is the burial site of some of the most important figures in Serbian history: Vuk Karadžić, Dositej Obradović, and the Serbian rulers of the Obrenović dynasty - Miloš, Mihailo and Milan. The interior is richly decorated with a gold-plated carved iconostasis. Across from the church is the seat of the Patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church, a building completed in 1935.

Mosque

Baryakli Mosque C-1 Gospodar Jevremova 11, tel. 262 24 28. Built during Ottoman rule, around 1575. It was named Baryakli after a baryak (flag) which was raised to signal the simultaneous beginning of prayers in all the mosques of Belgrade. The only mosque still functioning in Belgrade.

Cemeteries

New Cemetery D-2, Ruzveltova 50, tel. (+381) 11 207

Behaviour in the church When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

13 00. Founded in 1886, this is the oldest existing cemetery in Belgrade. Its origins are linked to the relocation of the Old Cemetery, which once occupied the site of the present-day Tašmajdan Park. Many important figures in Serbian history scientists, artists, military leaders, statesmen - were buried here. Quite a number of gravestones are fine works of art in their own right and were created by well-known sculptors. Part of the site is occupied by French, Italian, Russian, Bulgarian and Austro-Hungarian military cemeteries from WW1 and the English Military Cemetery from WW2. 4Open 07:00 - 19:00

Parks & Gardens

Jevremovac Botanic Garden C-2, entrance at the

corner of Takovska and Dalmatinska Streets. A perfect spot to take a break from the bustle of the city. Founded in 1874, covering an area of 5 hectares, it is home to diverse plants from all over the world, a conservatory constructed in 1892 and a Japanese garden. Admission 120 dinars. Children under 7, pregnant women and students - admission free. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00.

April - May 2010

47

48

What to see Sava and Danube Rivers Experience the Belgrade rivers from up close - the Sava (female gender, temperamental) and the Danube (mighty and powerful). You can take a walk or bicycle ride along the shore, stop by for a drink or have lunch at one of the many floating restaurants, or experience the city at all angles by taking a cruise on one of the tour boats.

Park of Pioneers C-2. Opened to the public in 1944, this

park was once a palace garden. It is laid out between the Old Palace and the New Palace, the Old Palace being the residence of Obrenović royal line and the present city hall, which was completed in 1884. The park was demolished during both world wars and post-war renovations changed its appearance considerably. The New Palace, a residence of the Karađorđević dynasty, was completed in 1921 and today houses the official seat of the President of Serbia. The park features an observation post of the HQ of the Serbian Army from WW1, relocated from the Salonika Front.

Tašmajdan Park C-2. A favourite place for parents and nannies to take their children for a walk. The park is laid out between St. Mark’s Church, the Russian Church, the Central Post Office (built in 1934), the Children’s Cultural Centre, Duško Radović children’s theatre, the children’s amusement park, a sports centre featuring indoor and outdoor swimming pools and the main building of the state-run TV company (hit during NATO’s 1999 bombing). In 1830, the Ottoman Sultan’s charter on the internal independence of Serbia was read out at Tašmajdan. Since Roman times it served as a quarry deep bellow the ground and doubled as a cemetery above (Tašmajdan means quarry in Turkish). The cemetery was relocated to the present New Cemetery in the late 19th century. The cave and caverns below the park (an area of about 3,000m², up to 10m in height) were once used as food depots, for military arsenals and as shelters. Regrettably, tours of these fascinating underground chambers are not available at present. River cruising:

Hydro Speedboat "Maslacak" tel.(+381) 11 311 9241, (+381) 11 311 9653 , Belgrade, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 10a, YUBC, dtlbg@eunet. rs, www.dtltransport.net Sail on the Danube, Sava and Tisa Rivers to the destination of your choice with an amazing cruising speed of 55-60 km/h. Organised trips, charters and boat rentals can be arranged. Some standard trips include: Danube: Belgrade - Djerdap Gorge (3 hours), Danube: Belgrade - Silver Lake (2 hours), Danube: Belgrade - Viminacium (1 hour), Sava: Belgrade - Sremska Mitrovica (2 hours), Tisa: Belgrade - Novi Becej (2 hours) Yachting Club Kej tel. (+381) 64 825 11 03, www. klubkej.com. Day and night cruising with or without lunch/dinner and music. Departure is from Yachting Club Kej floating hostel and restaurant near the end of the Ušće Street. Duration: 2 hours. Catamaran capacity: 70 places. Admission 350 dinars. It is possible to rent the catamaran. Sirona (luxury ship) Reservations: (+381) 11 303 90 90, (+381) 63 26 26 90, www.sirona.rs, office@ sirona.rs. Day and night crusing on Sava and Danube rivers with live entertainment and buffet lunch/dinner included . Departure from Sava Passenger Dock at Karađorđeva Street. Košutnjak Spread out over a hill that is 250m high, this

330 hectare forest park used to be the royal hunting grounds until 1903, when it was opened to the public. The forest, a mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees, is crisscrossed with numerous trim trails and nature walks and there are picnic tables in the clearings for the overwhelming majority who prefer to just sit and enjoy a barbeque. The Košutnjak Sports Centre features an indoor and five outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, a football pitch and volleyball and basketball facilities. There are a number of restaurants beneath shady trees and a spring at the foot of the hill, whose water is safe to drink.

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Topčider Park A great place to spend a sunny afternoon.

Prince Miloš Obrenović set about developing the park in 1831, by furnishing it with royal necessities: a residence, a church, barracks and a tavern. The residence was completed in 1834, and that is where the Prince lived his last years and where he died. When the residence was finished, the area was planted with plane-trees, the biggest of which is protected by the state and is 44m high, with a crown diameter of 50m. It casts shade of 1,400 sqm. You can ride round the park in a carriage and have scrumptious roasted lamb on the terrace of Milošev Konak Restaurant. The park hosts a monument to the Swiss professor, publicist and criminologist Archibald Reiss (1876-1930), who arrived in Serbia as a member of a team inquiring into the atrocities committed by the Austro-Hungarian and Bulgarian army in Serbia during WW1, and stayed to live in Belgrade, where he founded the Belgrade police crime lab.

Museums

The 25th of May Museum Botićeva 6, tel. tel. (+381)

11 367 14 85. The museum is home to the House of Flowers, which is Josip Broz Tito‘s mausoleum. The items on show include Tito’s Rolls-Royce Phantom V dating from 1960, the precious gifts he received from people from all over the world, his 106 international and local decorations, an astonishing collection of 20,000 different relay batons presented ceremonially to Tito by Communist Party of Yugoslavia pioneers on his birthday, (celebrated on May 25th) following weeks of relay running around the whole country. Although this museum attracts more visitors than any other in Belgrade, due to widespread fascination with Tito, its collections are inadequately displayed and sometimes inaccessible to visitors. No guided tours. Admission: 200 dinars 4Open 10:00 - 16:00.

Ethnographic Museum C-1, Studentski trg 13, tel. (+381) 11 328 18 88. The permanent display here features a rich collection of folk costumes, kilims, craftwork, tools, furniture, old photos depicting folk rites and jewellery. Themed exhibitions are mounted from time to time. There is a souvenir and handiwork shop. Levels one and three are wheelchair friendly. Admission belgrade.inyourpocket.com

What to see 150 dinars, students and children 60 dinars. Sun: admission free. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon.

Military Museum B-1, Belgrade Fortress, tel.(+381) 11 334 34 41. Founded in 1878. The larger part of the old collection was carried off by the Germans in WW2. The remaining items span ancient to modern times (weapons, armour, wartime flags, paintings, photographs, equipment, uniforms and decorations). There is a permanent display within the museum building, while on the outside, artillery weapons from the 18th-20th century and armoured vehicles line the ramparts and trenches of the fortress. The most recent acquisitions include a Humvee captured from the US Army in 1999. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Museum of Aviation Nikola Tesla Airport, tel. (+381) 11 267 09 92. Founded in 1957, this museum owns various types of aircraft, engines, equipment, aircraft models and photographs. The exhibits are displayed within what is an architecturally striking building, and in the surrounding patio. This place is valued worldwide for its collection of WW2 fighter aircraft, which include a Messerchmitt Me-109, Hurricane Mk IV, Spitfire Mk Vc, Yak-3, Illushin IL-2, Thunderbolt P-47 and the only surviving Fiat G-50 in the world. It houses the remains of the only downed F-117 Nighthawk stealth fighter in the world, a wreckage of a US F-16 and cruise missiles and unmanned aircraft shot down in 1999. Admission 200 dinars, children 170 dinars, foreigners 450 dinars. 4Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 09:00 - 15:30.

Museum of Automobiles C-2, Majke Jevrosime 30, tel.

(+381) 11 303 46 25. There are around 40 old-timers on permanent display, part of a collection owned by Bratislav Petković. The museum is appropriately housed in the first public garage in the city, which was built in 1929. The oldest automobile is a MarotGardon from 1897. In addition to the old-timers (all in working order),

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

the museum features a large collection of racing motorcycles, photographs, equipment and a souvenir shop. You are not allowed to take pictures. Admission 100 dinars, students 80 dinars, children under 7 admission free. 4Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon.

Nikola Tesla Museum C-3, Krunska 51, tel: (+381) 11 243 38 86. Nikola Tesla (1856–1943), a Serbian inventor, scientist and electrical engineer, who made revolutionary contributions to the discipline of electricity and magnetism. He is the inventor of the AC current, the three-phase system of power transmission, induction motor, high-frequency power generators and transformers, a pioneer of MRI, robotics, wireless communications and remote control technologies. In 1943, the Supreme Court of the United States credited him as being the inventor of the radio. The unit for measuring magnetic field was named tesla in his honour. The museum houses his personal legacy, scientific papers and urn with his ashes. Demonstrations of his experiments are available for pre-registered group visits. Admission 150 dinars, foreigners 300 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Mon. Yugoslav Film Archive C-2, Kosovska 11 (cinema),

tel. (+381) 11 324 82 50. Founded in 1949, the archive is considered to be one of the five most important in the world. Its collections include over 95,000 copies of national and international films, posters, photographs, scripts and artefacts, such as the Lumiere brother’s camera No. 335 from 1896. Film buffs will enjoy daily shows of art films from the archives.

April - May 2010

49

50

Mail & Phones Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 Phone numbers information: 988

Posting a letter

The postal code for Belgrade is 11000. If you have stamps, you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box (post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are all marked with the logo Pošta) or leave them at the post office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is 20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless of the destination). International mail (other than standard letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for customs inspection if necessary.

Post

Post Office 1 C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 324 34 81. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 3 C-2, Zmaj Jovina 17, tel. (+381) 63 34 92. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. Post Office 6 C-2, Savska 2, tel. (+381) 11 3643 117. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. Post Office 8 Glavna 8, tel. (+381) 11 371 40 18. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Post Of f ice 123 A -1 , Bulevar umetnosti 4 - 6 (Mercator Shopping Centre), tel. (+381) 11 311 68 47. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

Express Mail

DHL Jurija gagarina 36v, tel. (+381) 11 310 55 00. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. FedEx Autoput 22, tel. (+381) 11 314 90 75. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Post Express C-2, Takovska 2, tel. (+381) 11 360 76 07. Operating in the territory of Serbia. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. UPS Nikola Tesla airport, tel. (+381) 11 228 64 22. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.

City Express Mail

Beo Messenger C-3, Birčaninova 8, tel. (+381) 11 264 49 14. 4Open 08:30 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. BG info Box D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 38 300 50. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. City runner Trebevićka 47, tel. (+381) 11 354 04 99. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

Making a phonecall

To call a local number within Belgrade, dial the number directly and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access code (00), followed by the country code, the area code and the phone number. When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need to dial the area code before the phone number (the area code for Belgrade is 011).

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for international calls only) available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows longer calls: 40 minutes with the UK or 30 minutes with the USA. When buying a Halo Plus card you must choose between three types of card: for overseas calls, for calls to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the former Yugoslavia.

Mobile phones

There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets and in the case of the MTS network in post offices as well. MTS C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 7, tel. 064 789. www. mts.telekom.rs Telenor C-2, Kosovska 49, tel. 063 98 63. www. telenor.co.rs Vip mobile C-2, Knez Mihailova 21, tel. 060 12 34. www.vipmobile.rs

WiFi Hotspots

Absinthe C-3, Kralja Milutina 33, tel: (+381) 11 364 06 25. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00 Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel (+381) 11 262 58 39. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. Cantina de Frida B-2, Karadjordjeva 2-4, tel. (+381) 11 218 11 20. 4Open 12:00 - 03:00 Casa Nova C-1, Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel. (+381) 11 303 68 67. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00 Cruise Sava Quay (Block 70), tel. (+381) 11 215 75 10. 4Open 10:00 - 24:00 Hot Spot Café C-1, Studentski trg 21, tel. (+381) 11 263 92 05. 4Open 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Klub književnika C-2, Francuska 7, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 31. 4Open 12:00 - 01:00 Lava Bar C-3, Kneza Miloša 77, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 25. 4Open 10:00 - 04:00 Little Bay C-2, Dositejeva 9a, tel. (+381) 11 328 89 95. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00 Living C-1, Strahinjića Bana 52, tel. (+381) 11 291 01 35. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00 Majik C-2, Džordža Vašingtona 38a, tel. (+381) 11 334 86 90. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00 Metropolitan Grill B-2 Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381) 11 301 11 40. 4Open 06:30 - 23:30 Municipality of New Belgrade A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 167. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Salvadore Dali C-2, Hilandarska 20, tel. (+381) 11 334 37 78. 4Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Plato C-2, Akademski plato 1, tel. (+381) 11 263 50 10. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00 Sport Café C-2, Makedonska 4, tel. (+381) 11 324 31 77. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00 Student Park C-2. 4Open 24hrs. belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Getting around Public transport

Belgrade does not have an underground railway system and it does not look as if it is going to get one soon (although it has one of the deepest tube stations in Europe, at 42m below ground level). City transport comprises buses, trams and trolleybuses. Buses are operated by a public utility company controlled by the city council and a number of private companies, which accounts for the differences in shape, colour and age of the buses out on the streets. There are only single-ride tickets, available at most kiosks at a flat rate of 42 dinars (regardless of the form of transport). You can also buy a ticket on board, from the driver, for 80 dinars. You have to validate your ticket once you get on board, by punching it with a ticket validator, installed near each door. A ride without a valid ticket is fined 3 000 dinars. Public transport runs (roughly) from 04:00 to 00:00. During night time, buses run at 1-hour intervals from 00:10 to 02:10. Night buses depart from special stops at the Republic Square towards other parts of the city. The night fare is 74 dinars, available on board. You are advised to avoid trams if you are in a hurry, because one broken tram blocks an entire line (or two), and this invariably happens right in the middle of two stops, in pouring rain. Belgrade public transport is generally efficient. In the Old Town, a bus may prove to be faster than a car, because most streets have bus-only lanes.

Taxis Quite a few taxi operators in Belgrade are reckless drivers who hate to take passengers on short rides (e.g. from Slavija to Terazije). A taxi must display the name of its taxi company and its ID number. Inside the taxi, the price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Your fare is shown on the meter. Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company (their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a company name), who usually hang around the airport and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Taxi fare in Belgrade is quite easy on the pocket: there is a start-up fee of 119 dinars and the rate per kilometre is 46 dinars at the low tariff (Mon to Sat 06:00 - 22:00) or 52 dinars at the high tariff (Mon to Sat 22:00 - 06:00, Sunday and public holidays). Some taxi companies give a 20% discount if you order a taxi by phone. Beogradski taksi’ taxi company (Tel. 9801) uses normal daily rates for services rendered at night, on weekends and public holidays. They also offer fixed, attractive rates to the airport. There is usually no extra charge for the luggage but if the taxi driver feels entitled to make that charge, he would have to state so at the outset, or you are not obliged to pay it. A tip is not required but is appreciated, so you may round off the fare. Pets are transported with the driver’s consent. Many Belgraders like to sit next to the driver and have a nice chat. You can ask the taxi driver about hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything you would like to know about the city or local politics. Most taxi drivers are smokers but you can request a non-smoking vehicle, or simply ask the driver to extinguish the cigarette.

Trusted taxi companies Beotaxi tel.(+381) 11 970 Beogradski taxi tel. (+381) 11 9801 Lux taxi tel. (+381) 11303 31 23 NBA taxi tel. (+381) 11318 57 77 Pink taxi tel. (+381) 119803 belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Trains

Central Railway Station B-2, Savski trg 2, tel. (+381)

11 360-28-99 (00:00-24:00). www.serbianrailways. com. Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes in the world), or Romantika Train (steam locomotive and authentic 1st, 2nd and 3rd class carriages from the early 20th century that take you for journeys outside Belgrade) see the Serbian Railways website for more information.

Train tickets Tickets for regular local and international lines are available at Central Railway Station and at: Putnik, C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 1, tel. 323 19 05. Rekreaturs, C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 3, tel. 323 05 58 Wasteels, B-2, Central Railway Station, tel. 265 88 68

Airlines

Aeroflot B-5, Knez Mihailova 30/3, tel. (+381) 11 328 60 71, [email protected], www.aeroflot.ru. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Aerosvit B-5, Nikole Spasića 3, tel. (+381) 11 328 82 37, [email protected], www.aerosvit.com. 4Open 09:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Air France B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 263 82 22. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Alitalia B-5, Terazije 43, tel. (+381) 11 324 50 00, www.alitalia.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Austrian B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 (+381) 11 324 80 77, [email protected], www.austrian. com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. British Airways B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381) 11 328 13 03, www.britishairways.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines B-5, Kralja Milana 6, tel. (+381) 11 361 45 92, [email protected], www. czechairlines.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Jat Airways C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 17, tel. (+381) 11 32 32 372, [email protected], www.jat.com. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Lufthansa B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303 49 44, www.lufthansa.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Montenegro Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 23, tel. (+381) 11 262 11 22, www.montenegroairlines.com. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Olympic Airlines B-5, Vase Čarapića 14, tel. (+381) 11 303 67 50, [email protected], www.olympicairlines. com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun. Srilankan Airlines C-2, Francuska 17/1, tel. (+381) 11 334 82 64, www.srilankan.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Swiss Air Lines B-5, Terazije 3, tel. (+381) 11 303 01 40, www.swiss.com. 4Open 08:30 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun.

www.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010

51

52

Getting around Turkish Airlines B-5, Knez Mihailova 30, tel. (+381)

11 303 61 95, [email protected], www.thy.com. 4Open 09:00 - 16:30, Closed Sat, Sun.

Airport

Nikola Tesla airport tel. (+381) 11 209 44 44,

www.beg.aero Located 18km to the west of the city centre, near a place called Surčin, likely to claim the title of the foggiest site in Belgrade. Though the sun may be shining brightly above the rest of Belgrade, your flight could still be late due to the fog that often does not venture farther than the airport perimeter. The airport building has been renovated recently but there are still some nooks and crannies where renovation work began only to be left unfinished. Serbia’s national airline is JAT Airways, which operates a fairly old fleet but is nevertheless one of the safest air carriers in the world. At time of writing, Germanwings and Norwegian Air are the only low-cost airlines which fly to Belgrade.

Avio taxi

Air Pink Jove Ilića 13, tel. (+381) 11 391 01 00, www. airpink.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00 Prince Aviation A-1, Goce Delčeva 40-42, tel. (+381) 11 303 23 03, www.princeaviation.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00

Buses

Central Bus Station C-2, Železnička 4, tel. (+381)

11 262 71 46 (local routes), 263 62 99 (international routes), www.zeleznicesrbije.com. Busservices account for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There are buses for big towns (such as Novi Sad, Niš) running at frequent intervals throughout the day. The bus station is a ramshackle affair, quite unlikely to inspire the urge to linger awhile. Ticket windows are open 24 hrs a day and so are public toilet facilities and a restaurant, whose clientele during the night time is likely to include pickpockets, conmen, prostitutes, drowsy farmers and students waiting for the earliest morning buses, because they have nowhere to stay. The food on offer is overpriced and unsavoury. Arrivals are across the nearby park. Lasta Bus Station B-2, Železnička 2, tel. (+381) 11 334 85 55, www.lasta.co.rs. Lasta is the largest bus operator in Serbia, a partner of the Eurolines system and runs a large number of local and international lines. Its station is smaller and offers fewer facilities than the Central Bus Station.

Car rental

Avis B-2, Milentija Popovića 5, tel. (+381) 11 313 96 16, www.avis.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 70 62, open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Budget A-2, Proleterske solidarnosti 38, tel. (+381) 11 311 30 50, www.budget.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 63 61, open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. City rent a car Omladinskih brigada 90, tel. (+381) 11 225 87 84, www.cityrentacar.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, closed Sun Europcar A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 59, tel. (+381) 11 301 50 04, www.europcar.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 90 28, open 08:00 - 22:00. Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Hertz C-2, Dragoslava Jovanovića 1, tel. (+381) 11 320 87 36, www.hertz.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 064 848 54 02, open 08:00 - 20:00. UniRent A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 45g, tel. (+381) 11 313 30 09, www.unirent.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. Also at the Airport, tel. 209 41 40, open 08:00 - 20:00. Yu team A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 71, tel. (+381) 11 269 23 39, www.yuteam.co.rs. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun Closed. Also at the Airport, tel. 228 61 61, open 08:00 - 20:00. Zim C-2 Čubrina 6-8, tel. (+381) 11 218 58 51, www. zim-rentacar.com. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00

Car parks

Parking presents a problem. There are very few parking garages, and only a few companies can boast the luxury of private parking. To compound the mess, the Old Town is divided into three parking zones: red zone (one-hour parking limit), yellow (two-hour) and green (three-hour). You can pay for parking by filling out a parking coupon for the relevant zone, available at kiosks with instructions in English overleaf. Another way to pay for parking is to send an SMS message with the number of licence plates to 9111 for Zone 1, 9112 for Zone 2 and 9113 for Zone 3. You will receive a confirmation message in Serbian, so it might be safer to use the parking coupon, in case you were rejected. If you opt for parking in a parking garage, no parking limit applies. You may notice that some local drivers have a habit of parking their cars with blithe insouciance in the middle of the street, even in the yellow lane, reserved for public transport, without suffering any consequences. This occurs with annoying regularity on Nušićeva, Kraljice Marije, 27. Marta, Svetogorska and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra among others. We do not advise you to follow their example because it is an ugly habit, posing a problem for other drivers.

Limo rental

Limo Service Cara Dušana 173 (Zemun), tel. (063) 123 55 55. Lincoln TownCar (White, Black), Mercedes S 320 CDI.

Train Schedule From Belgrade Dep. Arr. 10:10 20:09 22:10 07:53 15:55 05:39 07:50 08:25 05:50 17:50 21:40 07:27 07:50 17:00 21:50 07:06 07:50 17:40 21:15 07:15 07:50 21:50 22:00 12:31 21:20 09:00 05:50 12:56 10:35 17:50 21:50 04:50 10:45 08:20

City BAR BAR BUCHAREST ISTANBUL LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA SKOPJE SKOPJE SOFIA SOFIA THESSALONIKI THESSALONIKI VIENNA ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZURICH

To Belgrade Dep. Arr. 21:00 06:26 12:20 21:43 21:45 08:54 22:00 19:20 14:40 23:27 08:15 17:20 09:00 18:06 20:45 06:00 11:55 19:20 20:20 04:50 06:00 18:06 17:05 05:45 18:50 06:15 06:06 12:25 09:00 15:38 23:50 06:20 21:40 17:20

Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Getting around Flight Schedule From Belgrade Days Dep. 1-3----7 08:10 ----5-14:35 ---4--12:40 1-3---07:00 ----5--17:25 12-4-620:00 -2345-7 19:50 --3-5-7 21:00 1-----08:10 ---4--12:35 -2-4--7 13:20 -2-4--7 15:50 -2-4-608:05 ------7 06:30 1--4--20:15 --345-7 07:05 ---4--06:40 ------7 17:00 1-3---14:15 ---4-608:00 -2----7 14:20 1-3-5-7 14:40 --2---16:20 1----622:05 1234567 10:30 1-3-567 13:00 1234--08:20 ----5--15:30 ------7 15:50 1234567 13:05 1234567 16:45 12345-13:05 -2----1345 1234567 09:20 1234567 12:40 --3--67 07:55 1234-67 18:40 1234567 20:55 123---08:30 ---4567 08:40 1234567 07:05 1234567 08:50 1234567 11:40 1-345-7 17:20 1234567 20:50 12345621:20 ------7 21:35 --2---08:20 ----5-7 08:00 -2----13:30 ---4--12:20 ---4--7 18:05 1234567 07:40 --34567 13:25 -234567 10:00 1-----09:10 -2---608:00 ---4--10:15 1234567 08:15 1234567 15:20 1234567 08:15 1234567 16:50 -23-5-15:20 ----5-7 18:00 1234567 14:40

Arr. 10:40 17:05 16:30 09:05 20:05 23:15 23:05 21:50 12:05 15:00 15:30 18:05 10:25 16:45 05:55 09:05 08:55 19:15 17:45 10:35 15:55 17:15 19:20 01:35 12:40 14:55 09:40 16:50 17:10 14:35 18:25 14:35 16:40 12:00 15:10 08:55 19:10 21:35 09:15 09:25 07:50 09:35 13:40 19:05 21:40 22:30 22:30 11:05 10:45 15:25 14:15 21:55 08:45 14:20 10:50 10:00 09:40 11:50 09:50 16:40 09:50 18:25 17:10 19:50 16:35

Destination AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) AMSTERDAM (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (JU) ATHENS (OA) ATHENS (OA) BANJA LUKA (JU) BRUXELLES (JU) BRUXELLES (JU) COLOGNE (4U) COLOGNE (4U) COPENHAGEN (JU) COPENHAGEN (JU) DUBAI (JU) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (JU) ISTANBUL (TK) KIEV (VV)LARNAKA (JU) LONDON (JU) LONDON (BA) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) LJUBLJANA (JU) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (lh) OSLO (DY) PARIS (JU) PARIS (AF) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (JU) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PRAGUE (OK) ROME (AZ) SARAJEVO (JU) SKOPJE (JU) SKOPJE (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STOCKHOLM (JU) STUTTGART (4U) STUTTGART (4U) TEL AVIV (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (JU) TIVAT (YM) TIVAT (YM) TRIESTE (JU) TRIESTE (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (JU) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) ZURICH (JU) ZURICH (JU) ZURICH (LX)

To Belgrade Days 1-345-7 ----5----4--1-3-------5-12-4-6--2345-7 -2-4-6-1--------4---2-4--7 -2-4-6------7 -2--5-12---67 -2----123-567 1-3------4-6-2----7 --3-5-7 --2---1----61234567 1-3-567 1234------5-------7 1234567 1234567 12345--2----1234567 1234567 --34--7 1234-67 1234567 123------45-1234567 1234567 1234567 1-345-7 1234567 123456------7 --2-------5-7 -2-------4-----4--7 1234567 --34567 -234567 1------2---6---4--1234567 1234561234567 1234567 1--4--7 ----61234567

Dep. 11:20 17:20 11:25 10:30 20:55 18:00 17:50 06:00 12:55 15:50 10:50 18:30 11:25 17:35 07:35 21:45 22:20 22:15 13:05 19:45 20:00 13:05 12:35 11:30 13:30 08:15 10:30 17:40 18:00 11:05 19:25 11:05 10:05 13:00 09:50 09:30 19:25 06:35 17:40 06:45 08:20 17:40 14:15 14:50 06:20 06:00 06:00 11:55 11:35 11:15 10:05 22:50 09:20 14:55 11:30 07:40 16:05 18:20 13:25 10:55 13:25 19:20 18:00 09:30 12:20

Arr. 13:35 19:35 15:05 11:05 21:30 19:20 19:10 06:50 15:05 19:35 12:50 20:30 13:25 19:45 11:55 23:35 00:10 00:05 14:40 21:20 21:35 14:45 15:30 14:05 17:15 12:00 11:50 19:00 19:20 12:30 20:50 12:30 13:05 15:20 12:20 10:30 20:10 07:20 18:25 07:30 09:05 18:25 16:15 16:30 07:05 07:05 06:50 14:30 14:10 13:00 11:50 00:55 10:25 16:00 12:20 08:30 17:45 19:55 14:35 12:20 14:35 20:45 19:40 11:10 14:00

SU Aeroflot, VV Aerosvit, AF Air France, AZ Alitalia, OS Austrian, BA British Airways, OK Czech Airlines, 4U Germanwings, JU JAT Airways, LH Lufthansa, YM Montenegro Airlines, DY Norwegian Air Shuttle, OA Olympic Airlines, LX Swiss, TK Turkish Airlines. Schedule is subject to change. Belgrade In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. Note: Summer flight schedule is valid until the end of October. You can learn more at the Belgrade Airport web site: www. beg.aero For more information on JAT flights, please call 0-800-111-528 (toll-free calls from Serbian fixed telephone network), for calls abroad 311 21 23

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

53

54

Getting around

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Shopping You may be labouring under the impression that Belgrade is a shopper’s paradise, having seen the trendy and chic Belgrade girls, but alas, Belgrade is not as strong in the shopping department as Milan or Paris. Belgrade’s main shopping areas are Knez Mihailova, Terazije, Kralja Milana, and Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra streets. Most shops are open between 10:00 and 20:00. The main supermarkets in the Old Town are Maxi and Alonso, both located at the corner of Višnjićeva and Gospodar Jevremova streets (C-1). Larger supermarkets can be found in New Belgrade, on Omladinskih Brigada Street, near Airport City (Idea and Rodić) and on Treći Bulevar Street near Holiday Inn (Super Vero), open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. If you are seized by a sudden urge to go shopping for oregano, underwear or a TV set at 2 o’clock in the morning, go crazy at Tempo, a huge supermarket in New Belgrade, near motorway exits for Novi Sad and Zagreb, open 24 hours. There are small shops selling newspapers, cigarettes, chocolate, spirits and fruit juice throughout the city, open 24hrs.

Shopping centres

Delta City Jurija Gagarina 16. Delta City offers a wide array of shops, a supermarket, multiplex cinema, bowling alley, a variety of fast-food outlets and cafés. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Mercator A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4. Ver y popular shopping centre housing a self service restaurant, children’s playroom, supermarket, cafés, a post office and a bank open on Sundays. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. New Millennium C-2 Knez Mihajlova 19-21. Small and cosy, featuring a charming range of boutiques and shoe shops, this shopping centre provides hours of entertainment to anyone who thinks of shopping as a favourite pastime. 4Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Piramida Jurija Gagarina 151. Local shopping centre packed with small boutiques selling clothes, shoes and home accessories. Popular with locals, it offers a casual atmosphere, moderate prices, and proximity to a green market. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Sava Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9. Spacious foyers and passageways between conference halls feature a range of chic boutiques specialising in clothes and shoes. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Ušće shopping center B-2, blok 16, w w w. usceshoppingcenter.com. The biggest shopping centre in the heart of Belgrade. 160 shops, cinema, casino, bowling, wellness centre, 6 cafes and 10 restaurants on 130.000 m2. 4Open 10:00 – 22:00.

Antiques

Ambijenta C-2, Nikole Spasića 2, tel. (+381) 11 262 45 61. 4Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00 Nosorog C-2, Cara Uroša 12, tel. (+381) 11 262 79 94. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00

Bookshops

Apropo C-2, Cara Lazara 10, tel. (+381) 11 262 58

39. Wonderful little bookshop-cum-tea room filled with books in Serbian and English. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. IPS-Akademija C-2, Knez Mihailova 35, tel. (+381) 11 263 65 14. A large selection of books, monographs, dictionaries and comic books in Serbian and English. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Mamut C-2, corner of Sremska and Knez Mihailova, tel. (+381) 11 263 90 60. Books, monographs and magazines in Serbian and English, a great range of CDs, a gift-shop. 4Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

Concept shop Supermarket C-1, Corner of Strahinjića Bana and Višnjića Streets, tel. (+381) 65380 50 44. An out-ofthe-ordinary place combining a restaurant, spa centre and ‘beauty & fashion’ lounge, where you can purchase hard-tofind and curious home accessories, unique pieces of clothing designed by up-and-coming young fashion designers, skin care and other beauty produce, wines, Apple computers... The inside, covering a floor area of 1400m² is reminiscent of an unfinished hangar, as the walls have an unfinished concrete look/texture and there is insulation hanging from the ceiling. The restaurant serves up light Asian, Italian and French dishes and the Chef is Sem Veldheer from the Netherlands. Be sure to try pumpkin risotto with salmon and beurre blanc sauce. Those who like to overindulge in rich desserts will appreciate 'Chocolate Fountain' - candied fruit and 700 gram chocolate dip. The Spa zone offers traditional, aromatherapy and high-tech treatments. The Supermarket prices seem to aim for those who don't think twice about splashing out.4Open 10:00 - 24:00.

Flowers

Teleflora C-2, Svetogorska 11, tel. (+381) 11 303 00

48. Flower delivery to 185 countries worldwide. 4Open: 10:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Adoré C-2, New Millennium Shopping Centre, entrance

from Knez Mihailova 21, tel. (+381) 11 262 50 56. The finest chocolate treats in the Balkans. An absolute must for chocoholics! Also at Delta City. 100g - 350 dinars. 4Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Beoizlog C-2, Knez Mihajlova 6, tel. (+381) 11 263 17 21. Beograde souvenirs: books, T-shirts, calendars, old photos, stationary with Belgrade themes. 4Open 09:00 21:00, Closed Sun. Singidunum C-2, Terazije 42, tel. (+381) 11 264 31 58. The largest selection of rakija (traditional Serbian brandy), wines, and local delicacies. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. Zdravo-Živo C-2, Nušićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 324 73 74. A widearray of items belonging to Serbian folk culture (traditional caps and footwear, embroidered blouses, woollen socks), pipes, traditional kitchen accessories, kilims etc. 4Open 12:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun.

April - May 2010

55

56

Shopping Markets Teeming with people and colours, green markets offer fresh fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, scrumptious meat and dairy products, pickles, honey, herbs and more. Officially open 06:00 - 19:00, but you will be wise to observe the times below, as farmers selling their own goods are eager to go home earlier. Bajlonijeva Pijaca C-2, Džordža Vašingtona bb, tel. (+381) 11 322 34 72. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Blok 44 Jurija Gagarina bb, tel. (+381) 11 215 82 32. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Kalenić Pijaca D-3, Maksima Gorkog bb, tel. (+381) 11 245 03 50. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00 Zeleni venac C-2, Jug Bogdanova bb, tel. 262 93 28. 4Open 07:00 - 16:00

Www.serbiasouvenirs.com. The biggest online

souvenir shop with a wide range of original, handmade folkart products and souvenirs from all over Serbia. They offer a wide range of products including books, travel guides, games, clothing, classical souvenirs and more. The website is currently only available in Serbian.

Tobacco & Drinks

Julieta C-2, Đure Jakšića 11, tel. (+381) 11 263 76 90. Cuban cigars, whiskey, dark chocolate, fine wines and champagne. 4Open 09:30 - 23:00, Closed Sun. La Casa del Habano C-3, Kneginje Zorke 2, tel. (+381) 11 383 05 33, www.julieta.biz. The place to enjoy Cuban cigars. Classy decor and one of 10 largest walk in humidors in Europe with a comprehensive range of the finest cigars and whiskey. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Royal enoteca B-2, Karađorđeva 3, (+381) 11 262 39 69. Excellent selection of wines. 4Open 16:00 – 24:00, Sun closed. Tvrđava C-2, corner of Cetinjska and Hilandarska. Cigarettes, sweets, juices and spirits. 4Open 00:00 - 24:00. Wine Bar C-2, Dositejeva 13, tel. (+381) 11 262 62 67. Excellent selection of wines. Taste wines on offer at retail prices. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun closed. Wonderland C-3, Svetog Save 25, tel. (+381) 64 640 22 20. Wines, spirits and a fine assortment of sweets. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun closed.

www.inyourpocket.com Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Business directory Business essentials (data for Serbia in 2009) GDP per capita: $10,540 Average wage: €425 (Belgrade), €340 (Serbia) Annual inflation rate: 10.1% The standard VAT rate: 18% The lower VAT rate: 8% Corporate Profit Tax Rate: 10% (lowest in Europe) Personal income tax rate on wages: 12% Other personal income tax rate: 20% Annual Income Tax: 10% (for income exceeding the amount of 3 and 5 times the national average wage for Serbian and non-Serbian citizens respectively) and 15% (for income 8 times above the national average wage for non-Serbian citizens) Rates for mandatory social security contributions: 17.9% Unemployment rate: 13% Serbia has free trade agreements with Russia and the countries of South East Europe (CEFTA).

Accounting & Auditing

BDO BC Excell C-2, Knez Mihailova 10, tel. (+381)

11 328 12 99

ConsulTeam C-3, Prote Mateje 52, tel. (+381) 11 308 61 80

Deloitte C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. (+381) 11 361

25 24

Ernst & Young A-1, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115d, tel. (+381) 11 209 57 00

KPMG C-2, Studentski trg 4, tel. (+381) 11 328 28 92

Pricewater house Coopers Omladinskih brigada 88a, tel. (+381) 11 330 21 00

SEECAP C-2, Maršala Birjuzova 22, tel. (+381) 11

328 31 00

Advertising agencies

BGinfo Box D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 383 00 50 Communis Ljutice Bogdana 1a, tel. (+381) 11 363 67 00 Digital Creation D-3, Živojina Žujovića 24, tel. (+381) 11 382 20 22 New Moment C-2, Hilandarska 14, tel. (+381) 11 322 99 92 Synergy Leo Burnett Miloja Đaka 22, tel. (+381) 11 367 41 06

Banks

Alpha Bank C-2, Kralja Milana 11, tel. (+381) 11 323 49 31

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Banca Intesa B-2, Milentija Popovića 7b, tel. (+381)

11 310 88 88

BNP Paribas C-2, (Representative Office), Obilićev

venac 22, tel. (+381) 11 328 48 60 Citibank N.A. A-2, (Representative Office), Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 64a/IV, tel. (+381) 11 220 93 00 Commerzbank AG B-2, (Representative Office), Vladimira Popovića 6 (Genex Apartments), tel. (+381) 11 301 85 20 Deutsche Bank C -2, (Representative Of fice), Balkanska 2, tel. (+381) 11 205 50 50 Eurobank EFG C-2, Kolarčeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 333 23 11 Erste Bank C-2, Kralja Petra 45, tel. (+381) 11 262 33 32 Findomestic banka C-2, Kosovska 10, tel. (+381) 11 333 17 17 Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. (+381) 11 222 60 00 Komercijalna banka C-3, Svetog Save 14, tel. (+381) 11 308 01 00 Marfin Bank D-2, Dalmatinska 22, tel. (+381) 11 330 63 00 Meridian Bank- Credit Agricole Group C -2, Kolarčeva 7-10, tel. (+381) 11 330 58 76 National Bank of Greece A-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 113, tel. (+381) 11 301 99 00 NLB LHB Banka A-1, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 165v, tel. (+381) 11 222 51 00 OTP Bank A-2, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 117, tel. (+381) 11 213 86 89 Piraeus Bank C-2, Kolarčeva 1, tel. (+381) 11 302 40 00 ProCredit Bank D-2, Bulevar despota Stefana 68c, tel. (+381) 11 207 79 06 Raiffeisen Bank C-2, Terazije 27, tel. (+381) 11 320 21 00 Societe Generale A-2, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 50a, tel. (+381) 11 301 15 15 Unicredit Bank C-2, Rajićeva 27-29, tel. (+381) 11 320 45 00 Volksbank A-1, Bul. Mihajla Pupina 165g, tel. (+381) 11 201 32 00

Business connections

Belgrade Stock Exchange A-1, Omladinskih brigada 1, tel. (+381) 11 311 72 97, www.belex.rs. Business Registration Agency C-2, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, tel. (+381) 11 333 14 00, www.apr.gov.rs

Getting working papers Internationals planning to work in Serbia are required to obtain a Temporary Residence Permit. To get one, you need to submit an application to the Police Office in the territory of residence. The documentation required for granting this permit depends on the reasons for requesting the permit (employment, education, sport etc.) and typically includes a valid passport, 2 photographs, evidence of means of support (such as bank statement attesting to availability of funds), employment contract, explanatory letter re: the need for employment written by the company, or decision on registration of the company (if you are owner or representative of a company). It normally takes about a week to process the application. Belgrade City Police (Department for Foreigners), Savska 35 (B-3), tel. (+381) 11 361 89 56.

April - May 2010

57

58

Business directory

Chamber of Commerce of Belgrade C-2, Kneza

Miloša 12, tel. (+381) 11 264 13 55, www.kombeg. org.rs

Ministry of Economy and Regional Development

C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 15, tel. (+381) 11 361 75 83, www.merr.gov.rs Ministry of Trade and Services C-3, Nemanjina 22-26, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 79 Privatization Agency C-2, Terazije 23, tel. (+381) 11 302 08 00, www.priv.rs

Serbian Chamber of Commerce and Industry

C-2, Resavska 13-15, tel. (+381) 11 330 09 00, pks. komora.net

SIEPA - Investment and Export Promotion Agency C-2, Vlajkovićeva 3, tel. (+381) 11 339 85 50

Business facilities

Airport City Omladinskih brigada 88, tel. (+381) 11 209 05 25, www.airportcitybelgrade.com Belgrade Fair B-3, Bulevar vojvode Mišića 14, tel. (+381) 11 265 55 10, www.sajam.co.rs EXPO XXI - Expocentre A-2, Španskih boraca 74a, tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs Sava Congress Centre B-2, Milentija Popovića 9, tel. (+381) 11 220 60 00, www.savacentar.com Ušće Business Centre B-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 6, tel. (+381) 11 220 02 00

Consulting

CES Mecon Danijelova 12-16, tel. (+381) 11 309 08 00, www.cesmecon.com

Dekleva & Partners Ltd. C-2, Hilandarska 23,

tel. (+381) 11 303 36 49, www.dekleva1.com. All services are offered in English, Russian, German, Greek and Serbian languages. EKI Investment C-2, Kralja Milana 16, tel. (+381) 11 361 31 64, www.eki-investment.com

Executive search/Recruitment

Lawyers

Harrison Solicitors C-2, Terazije 34, tel. (+381) 11

361 59 18

Law Office C-2, Takovska 13, (+381) 11 322 71 33,

(063)38 31 16, www.businesslawserbia.com. Lawyers and legal consultants provide a full range of corporate, company, legal services, serving both local and multinational companies, especially: registration, privatization, mergers & acquisitions, foreign investments, real-estate, litigations, banking, finance & tax advisory. Tomić-Stević-Dulić C-2, Carice Milice 3/II, tel. (+381) 11 328 52 27. Their practice areas include corporate law, commercial law, foreign investment, mergers and acquisitions, franchising, tax law, administrative law, intellectual property, unfair competition, privatization, insolvency, corporate restructuring, employment law, pension funds, real estate, construction litigation.

Office Furniture

Eurosalon B-3, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 12, tel. (+381) 11 206 75 00

Office1Superstore C-3, Sarajevska 1, tel. 346 06 00

Real estate

ApartmentsApart [email protected], www. apartmentsapart.com BeoRent (064)542 18 12, www.beorent.com Eurodiplomatic D-3, Dravska 18, tel. 308 68 78 Mentor D-3, Mileševska 2, tel. 308 90 80, www. mentorrent.rs Slavija rent C-2, Beogradska 33, 334 12 81

Translators

Association of Technical and Scientific Translators of Serbia D-3, Kičevska 9, tel. 244 27 29 Belgrade Translation Center C-1, Dobračina 50, tel. 328 73 88

Center Lomonosov C-2, Hilandarska 23, tel. 334 31

84. www.centarlomonosov.com

HD European Consulting Group C-2, Andrićev venac 8, tel. (+381) 11 324 78 96, www.hd-ecg.com

Foreign representations

American Chamber of Commerce C-2, Vlajkovićeva 30, tel. (+381) 11 334 59 61, www.amcham.rs

Council of Europe D-3, Sinđelićeva 9, tel. (+381)

11 308 84 11

European Agency for Reconstruction C-2, Vasina

2-4, tel. 302 34 00

Foreign Investors Council C-2, Svetogorska 37, tel. (+381) 11 303 55 50, www.fic.org.rs

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

Usce Shoping Centre

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle directory Children

Algeria Smetanina 12, tel. (+381) 11 367 12 11 Argentina C-2, Knez Mihailova 24, tel. (+381) 11 262

The most popular place for children in Belgrade is the Zoo, nestled against the Belgrade fortress (C-1). The Zoo, founded in 1936, is also called ‘Good Hope Garden’. Its stars include the only white buffalo in Europe, a couple of white lions and a white wallaby. Children adore the Baby Zoo, home to the cubs born in the zoo.Admission is 350 din for adults and 250 din for children aged 3-15.4Open 08:00 - 20:00, in winter 08:00 - 17:00

Australia B-2, Vladimira Popovića 38-40, tel. (+381)

Baby sitting

Brazil C-2, Krunska 14, tel. (+381) 11 323 97 81 Bolivia Slobodana Jovanovića 23/12, tel. (+381) 11

Ballet classes

Bulgaria C-3, Birčaninova 26, tel. (+381) 11 361 39 80 Canada C-3, Kneza Miloša 75, tel. (+381) 11 306 30 00 Czech Republic C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 22, tel.

Dadilja C-2, Nušićeva 6, tel. (+381) 11 324 14 80 Orhestra Ballet Studio D-3, Ćirila i Metodija 2a, tel. (+381) 11 240 34 43

Best ice cream in town

Pelivan C-2, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 20, tel. (+381) 11 323 16 79

Children’s playrooms

Extreme Kids D-2, Cvijićeva 1, tel. (+381) 11 276 43 35

Horse riding

Aleksa Dundić Riding Club Belgrade

Hippodrome, Paštrovićeva 2, tel. (+381) 11 354 15 84

International schools

Anglo-American School Velisava Vulovića 47, tel. (+381) 11 367 57 77

Britannica International School Užička 21a, tel. (+381) 11 367 15 57

British International School Svetozara Radojčića

4, tel. (+381) 11 346 70 00

Ecole Francaise de Belgrade B-3, Kablarska 35,

tel. (+381) 11 369 17 62

Deutsche Schule Belgrad B-3, Sanje Živanović

10, tel. (+381) 11 369 31 35

International Nursery School Nake Spasić 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 71 30

International School of Belgrade Temišvarska

19, tel. (+381) 11 206 99 99

Kindergartens

Sunašce C-2, Admirala Geprata 8a ulaz 5/1, tel. (+381) 11 361 70 13. Day care for pre-school children. Marry Poppins C-3, Kursulina 37, tel. (+381) 11 243 30 59. Day care for school-age children.

Real Aikido

Real Aikido World Centre D-3, Slavujev venac 1,

tel. (+381) 11 308 91 99

Swimming school for children

City Centre for Physical Education C-3, Deligrad-

ska 27, tel. (+381) 11 265 87 47

Dry cleaners

Pop’s, Mercator Shopping Centre A-1, Bulevar Umetnosti 4, tel. (+381) 11 313 02 51

Foreign representations

Albania Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 25a, tel. (+381) 11 306 66 42

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

25 41

11 330 34 00

Austria B-2, Kneza Sime Markovića 2, tel. (+381) 11 333 65 00

Belarus C-3, Deligradska 13, tel. (+381) 11 361 69 38 Belgium C-2, Krunska 18, tel. (+381) 11 323 00 18 Bosnia and Herzegovina C-3, Krunska 9, tel. (+381) 11 324 11 70

275 78 19

(+381) 11 323 01 33 Chile D-3, Tomaša Ježa 16-20/12, China Perside Milenković 9, tel. (+381) 11 369 31 63 Congo C-3, Moravska 5, tel. (+381) 11 344 64 31 Croatia C-3, Kneza Miloša 62, tel. (+381) 11 361 05 35 Cuba Vukovarska 3, tel. (+381) 11 369 24 41 Cyprus Generala Save Grujića 18, tel. (+381) 11 362 00 02 Denmark Neznanog Junaka 9a, tel. (+381) 11 367 95 00 Ecuador C-3, Graničarska 8/III, tel. (+381) 11 344 01 35 Egypt Andre Nikolića 12, tel. (+381) 11 265 05 85 Finland C-3, Birčaninova 29, tel. (+381) 11 306 54 00 France B-2, Pariska 11, tel. (+381) 11 302 35 00 Germany C-3, Kneza Miloša 74-76, tel. (+381) 11 306 43 00 Greece C-2, Francuska 33, tel. (+381) 11 322 65 23 Great Britain C-3, Resavska 46, tel. (+381) 11 264 50 55 Holland C-2, Simina 29, tel. 202 39 00 Hungary C-3, Krunska 72, tel. (+381) 11 244 04 72 India Ljutice Bogdana 8, tel. (+381) 11 266 41 27 Indonesia Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 18, tel. (+381) 11 367 40 62 Iran Ljutice Bogdana 40, tel. (+381) 11 367 43 60 Italia C-3, Birčaninova 11, tel. (+381) 11 306 61 00 Israel Bulevar Kneza Aleksandra Karađorđevića 47, tel. (+381) 11 364 35 00 Japan B-2, Vladimira Popovića 6, tel. (+381) 11 301 28 00 Macedonia C-1, Gospodar Jevremova 34, tel. (+381) 11 328 49 24 Mexico Ljutice Bogdana 5, tel. (+381) 11 367 41 70 Monte negro Užička 1, tel. (+381) 11 266 23 00 Norway Užička 43, tel. (+381) 11 367 04 04 Palestine Maglajska 14, tel. (+381) 11 367 14 07 Poland C-2, Kneza Miloša 38, tel. (+381) 11 206 53 01 Portugal Vladimira Gaćinovića 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 28 95 Romania C-3, Užiča 10, tel. (+381) 11 367 57 72 Russia C-3, Deligradska 32, Katićeva 8-10, tel. (+381) 11 361 13 23 Slovakia A-2, Bulevar Umetnosti 18, tel. (+381) 11 222 38 00 Slovenia C-1, Pariska 15, tel. (+381) 11 303 84 77 Spain C-3, Prote Mateje 45, tel. (+381) 11 344 02 31 Sweden Ledi Pedžet 2, tel. (+381) 11 206 92 00 Switzerland C-3, Birčaninova 27, tel. (+381) 11 306 58 20 Tunisia B-3, Vase Pelagića 19, tel. (+381) 11 369 19 61 Turkey C-2, Krunska 1, tel. (+381) 11 333 24 00 USA C-3, Kneza Miloša 50, tel. (+381) 11 361 93 44 Vatican C-3, Svetog Save 24, tel. (+381) 11 308 53 56

April - May 2010

59

Lifestyle directory

60

Hairdressers

Šobota C-2, Zmaj Jovina 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 62 95

Key cuts

Elezović D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 144, tel.

(+381) 11 245 27 25. If you lock yourself out late at night call tel. (+381) 64 641 43 65

Launderettes

Bianca Dušana Vukasovića 82, tel. (+381) 65 888 24 24

Libraries

City of Belgrade Library C-1, Knez Mihailova 56, tel. (+381) 11 202 40 00, www.bgb.org.rs

National Library of Serbia C-3, Skerlićeva 1, tel.

(+381) 11 245 12 42, www.nb.rs

Svetozar Marković University Library D-3, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 71, tel. (+381) 11 337 05 13, www. unilib.bg.ac.rs

Money transfer

Western Union C-2, Kosovska 1, tel. (+381) 11 330

03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Belgrade, in EUR only.

Opticians

Diopta C-2, Kralja Milana 4, tel. (+381) 11 268 75 39 La Gatta C-2, Cara Lazara 15, tel. (+381) 11 263 10 34

Health Clinics & Hospitals

Ambulance (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Bulevar Franše

D’Eperea 5, tel. 94 Emergency Centre (on duty 24 hours) C-3, Pasterova 2, tel: (+381) 11 361 84 44

Medical institutions on duty

Bežanijska Kosa General Hospital Bežanijska Kosa bb, tel. (+381) 11 260 13 22 Clinical Centre of Serbia C-3, Pasterova 2, tel. tel (+381) 11 361 77 77 Dr Dragiša Mišović General Hospital Heroja Milana Tepića 1, tel. (+381) 11 363 07 00 Military Medical Academy Crnotravska 17, tel. (+381) 11 266 11 22 Zvezdara General Hospital Dimitrija Tucovića 161, tel. (+381) 11 381 02 00

Private practices

Anlave CD Vase Pelagića 68, tel. (+381) 11 317 59 29, www.anlave.co.yu

Bel Medic General Hospital Koste Jovanovica 87, tel. (+381) 11 309 10 00, www.belmedic.com

Dentists (on duty 24 hours)

Stari Grad Obilićev Venac 30, tel. (+381) 11 263 52 36 Vračar Kneginje Zorke 15, tel. (+381) 11 244 14 13

Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours)

Aqua Pharm 2 C-3, Corner of Kneza Miloša and Višegradska Streets, tel. (+381) 11 361 01 71. Bogdan Vujošević A-1, Goce Delčeva 30, tel. (+381) 11260 18 87 Prvi Maj C-2, Kralja Milana 9, tel. (+381) 11 324 13 49 Sveti Sava C-2, Nemanjina 2, tel. (+381) 11 264 31 70 Zemun Glavna 34, tel. 261 85 82

Pets

Pet Centar A-2, Bulevar Milutina Milankovića 1v

(Treći bulevar), tel. (+381) 11 212 33 05, www.petcentar.rs.

Photo service

Beo Digital C-3, Nemanjina 40, tel. 365 00 18

Shoe repair

Saša M C-2, Kosovska 35, tel. 322 72 38

Spa & Beauty Salons

Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Center Milentija Popovica 5 ,tel.301 1171. massage, body treatments, facials, spa, swimming pool, manicure, pedicure, sauna, whirlpool, waxing Olimas C-1, Strahinjića Bana 64/3, tel. 218 07 92. Massage, body treatments. Jai Thai B-3, Vase Pelagića 48, tel. (+381) 369 91 93. Thai massage, body treatments, herbal baths, restaurant. Spa Centar C-1, Strahinjića Bana 5, tel. 328 54 08. Hydro massage, massage, steam baths, beauty parlour. Belgrade In Your Pocket 

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

sports Ada Ciganlija An islet in the Sava River (A3), it is the most popular swimming venue and outdoor recreational area in Belgrade. The tips of the islet are connected to the mainland with embankments, creating an artificial lake 4.2km long, with an average width of 200m and the depth of 4-6m, dubbed somewhat overenthusiastically as 'the Sea of Belgrade'. Both sides of the lake feature fine pebble beaches, dotted with cafés, restaurants and numerous sports venues. There is also a designated picnic area. The swimming season (when a lifeguard service operates from 10:00 to 19:00) is open from 15 June to end September. The water is warm and clean, but also rather muddy, so you can't see much when you dive. In addition to water sports (swimming, kayaking, rowing, windsurfing, water skiing, fishing) Ada Ciganlija offers a great number of free venues for football, basketball and handball - you need only bring a ball and some friends - plus there is a trim trail, biking and rollerskating paths, facilities for table tennis, tennis, bowling, artificial rock climbing, a bungee jumping platform (55m high), a nine-hole golf course, mini golf, rugby, field hockey, paintball, aqua football facilities, artificial alpine skiing and snowboarding slopes, skateboarding ramps, adventure park, and more. Aside from the copious amount sports facilities, there is also a children's theatre and several of the city's more popular splavovi, or floating houseboat clubs.

Golf

Golf Klub Beograd A-3, Ada Ciganlija, tel. (+381) 11 305 68 37, www.golfclub.co.rs. A nine-hole golf course, lessons and equipment hire available, A café to. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00

Karting

Autokomerc Karting Centar 1. Ulica 84c, tel.

(+381) 11 316 90 29, www.kart.rs. An outdoor circuit alongside the motorway close to the airport. Its 803m long and 8m wide track with 18 curves boasts a CIK FIA C circuit licence. Open from March to October, every day except Monday. The circuit is floodlit and night karting is available. The Center offers a kart school, and there is also a track for children aged 5 to 8.4Open 10:00 - 22:00

Paintball

Paintball Club Arena No 1 tel. (+381) 11 063 779 67 96. Outdoor and indoor facilities. One hour of paintball + equipment is 820 dinars.

Shooting range

Sportski Centar Kovilovo Zrenjaninski put 170

(12km from the city centre), tel. 207 52 00. First-class shooting ranges for Skeet, Trap and Double Trap events and one sporting compact shooting range specially designed for huntsmen. Shooting lessons, dog boxes, swimming pool, sauna, massage, restaurant.

Squash Courts

Squashland Pionirski grad in Košutnjak, tel. (+381) 11 305 58 07. Two courts, café. Price per session (45 mins): 600 dinars before 15h, 990 dinars after 15h and on weekends. Racket hire: 170 dinars. 4Open 08:00 24:00.

Swimming Pools

Bowling

Colosseum Dobanovačka 56 (Zemun), tel. (+381) 11 316 54 03. 10 lanes, billiards, Sony PlayStation consoles, electronic darts, café, restaurant. 4Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. First bowling Gradski Park u Zemunu, tel. (+381) 11 377 16 12. 7 lanes, café. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Kolosej Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), tel. (+381) 11 312 99 44. 14 lanes, billiards, laser tag arena, video arcades, café. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

Cycling

There are no bicycle paths in the Old Town, but you can enjoy a ride on a bicycle route along the river, from Dorćol to Ada Ciganlija. There are bicycle services in Dorćol, near Belgrade Fair, and at Ada Ciganlija. Good routes for riding a bike include those along the Sava on the New Belgrade side of the river, along Zemun Quay and at Ada Ciganlija. Riding a bike in Košutnjak and Topčider areas is not recommended because of steep hills and narrow traffic lines used by cars.

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Swimming pools offer swimming schools for children and adults. In addition to changing rooms and shower facilities, the amenities usually include a sauna, massage parlour, weight room, solarium... Swimming cap not obligatory. Banjica Crnotravska 4, tel. (+381) 11 266 87 00. Indoor swimming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 19:00 (from July 15). Admission 200-280 dinars. SC Vračar D-3 Sjenička 1, tel. (+381) 11 245 23 42. 4Open 14:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00. Admission 350 dinars. Tašmajdan C-2, Beogradska 71, tel. (+381) 11 324 09 01. Indoor swimming pool. 4Open 16:00 - 18:00. Admission 300 dinars.

Tennis Courts

11. April near university halls of residence in New

Belgrade, tel. (+381) 11 267 29 39. Three outdoor red-clay courts and one indoor court situated in an empty swimming pool (the place of Ana Ivanović’s early training). Gemax Veljka Lukića Kurjaka bb, tel. (+381) 11 306 18 13. Exclusive tennis club, 4 indoor and 4 outdoor courts, fitness centre, swimming pool, sauna, sports shop, restaurant. For members and their guests only. Sa&Ni D-2, Čarli Čaplina 39, tel. 276 68 47. Four redclay courts, school of tennis, café.

April - May 2010

61

BELGRADE TOP 10

Index ? 46 25th of May Museum 48 Absinthe 32 Akademija 42 Amarone Wine Bar 41 Amphora 40 Amsterdam 40 Apollo 011 29 ArkaBarka 29 AUR-Klub svetskih putnika 41 Balkan 21 Balkan Hotel Garni 22 Balzac 33 Baryakli Mosque 47 Belgrade Fair 18 Beli Grad 29 Belgrade Fortress 45 Best Western M 22 Best Western Šumadija 22 Bevanda 36 Bg City hotel 26 Bitef Art café 42 Bizzare 41 Blaywatch 42 Bristol 26 Brodić 42 Burito bar 36 Byblos 36 Cantina de Frida 39 Casa Nova 35 Cathedral Church 47 Centar 30 Central Bus Station 52 Central Railway Station 51 Central Station 30 Chilton 30 City Center 30 City Code 27 Continental 22 Cricket 30 Crossroad 30 Cruise 41 Čobanov odmor 39 Čubura 37 Dačo 37 Delta City 55 Diva 32 Elegance 26 Emergency Centre 60 Ethnographic Museum 48 Excelsior 23 Evropa 23 Favela 40 Franš 33 Galerija 40 Grand Casino 44 Grand pleasure 40 Greenet 40 Guli 36 Havana 43 Holiday Inn 23 Hyatt Regency 21 Ikki Sushi Bar 35 In 23 Ipanema 35 Jasmin Hostel 31 Jewish Cemetery 46 Jewish Historical Museum 46 Jevrem 37 Jevremovac Botanic Garden 47 Kalemegdanska terasa 33 Kalenić Pijaca 45 Kandahar 40 Kasina 25 Košutnjak 47

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Lav Le Petit Piaf Life Design Lime cafe Little Bay Loki Loža Madera Maharaja Majestic Majik Mama’s Biscuit House Manga Manjež Marshall pub McDonald’s Mercator Mercedes bar Metropolitan grill Milagro Millennium Tower Military Museum Moskva Mr. President Museum of Automobiles Museum of Aviation Mythologia N Nacos New Cemetery Nikola Tesla Airport Nikola Tesla Museum Ona a ne neka druga Opera Orašac Ottimo Palace Park Paša Pekara Toma Peking Pietro dell Oro Plastic Plato Pizza Hut Pomodoro Pošta Povetarac Prag President Proleće Rakia bar Reka Rex Rezime Crown Rezime Residence Royal Royal compound Salaš Sava Centre Skadarlija Skala Slavija Lux Slodes Srbija Srpska kafana St. Mark’s Church St. Petka’s Chapel St. Sava Temple Stara Carinarnica Stara Hercegovina Synagogue Sweet caffe Tabor Taš

26 23 23 40 33 39 34 34 33 24 32 40 31 38 41 39 55 42 34 39 46 49 24 24 49 49 34 27 36 47 52 49 43 34 26 35 24 26 36 39 32 35 44 42 36 36 27 44 27 21 38 42 44 26 28 28 27 46 38 55 45 26 25 26 26 38 47 47 47 38 38 46 40 38 27

The Three Carrots The Tube Three Black Cats Tis Topčider Park Townhouse 27 Tramvaj Travelling Actor Trim Villa Belvedere Villa Forest Villa Kalemegdan Villa Marija Villa Nevenka Vila Manjež Villa Zemun Yachting Club Kej Yugoslav Film Archive Zaplet Zlatnik Zira Zorba Žabar Whatever@the corner

42 44 31 31 48 25 44 28 27 28 28 28 29 29 28 29 31 49 32 21 25 33 35 34

Street register 27. marta D-2 Admirala Geprata C-2 Akademski plato C-2 Balkanska C-2 Beogradska C-2 Birčaninova C-3 Brodarska B-2 Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića A-2 Bulevar Despota Stefana C-2 Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra C-2 Bulevar Mihajla Pupina A-1 Bulevar Nikole Tesle A-1 Bulevar Oslobođenja C-3 Bulevar umetnosti A-1 Bulevar vojvode Mišića B-3 Bulevar Zorana Đinđića A-2 Cara Dušana C-1 Cara Lazara C-2 Cara Uroša C-1 Carice Milice C-2 Carigradska D-2 Cetinjska C-2 Cvijićeva D-2 Čarli Čaplina D-2 Čika Ljubina C-2 Dalmatinska D-2 Dečanska C-2 Deligradska C-3 Dobračina C-2 Dositejeva C-2 Dragoslava Jovanovića C-2 Džordža Vašingtona C-2 Đure Daničića C-2 Đušina D-2 Goce Delčeva A-1 Gospodar Jevremova C-1 Gospodar Jovanova C-1 Hilandarska C-2 Jurija Gagarina A-3 Kalenićeva D-3 Karađorđeva C-2 Katanićeva C-3 Kej oslobođenja A-1 Knez Mihailova C-2 Kneza Miloša C-3

Kneza Sime Markovića Kneginje Zorke Kolarčeva Kosančićev venac Kosovska Kralja Milana Kralja Milutina Kraljice Natalije Kraljice Marije Kralja Petra I Krunska Mačvanska Majke Jevrosime Makedonska Maksima Gorkog Maršala Birjuzova Masarikova Mije Kovačevića Milentija Popovića Mileševska Milovana Milovanovića Milutina Bojića Nebojšina Nemanjina Nikole Spasića Nušićeva Obilićev venac Omladinskih brigada Palmira Toljatija Palmotićeva Pariska Požarevačka Prizrenska Proleterske Solidarnosti Rajićeva Resavska Ruzveltova Sarajevska Savska Savski trg Skadarska Skerlićeva Skver Mire Trailović Slavujev venac Strahinjića Bana Studentski trg Svetog Save Svetogorska Svetozara Markovića Svetozara Radića Šantićeva Španskih boraca Tadeuša Košćuška Takovska Terazije Topličin venac Trg Nikole Pašića Trg Republike Trg Slavija Trnska Ušće Uzun Mirkova Vasina (Vase Čarapića) Venizelosova Višnjićeva Vladimira Popovića Vlajkovićeva Vojvode Šupljikca Vuka Karadžića Zeleni venac Zmaj Jovina Železnička

63 B-2 C-3 C-2 B-2 C-2 C-3 C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 C-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 D-2 A-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 C-3 C-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 A-1 A-1 C-2 C-1 D-3 C-2 A-2 C-2 C-3 D-2 C-3 B-3 C-3 C-2 C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 C-2 C-3 C-2 C-3 B-2 C-2 A-2 C-1 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-3 D-3 B-2 C-1 C-2 D-2 C-1 B-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 B-2

www.inyourpocket.com April - May 2010

Kej

ZEMUN

nja ođe lob Os

GREAT WAR ISLAND

D an ub e

Belgrade Fortress

Kalemegdan Park

ort d P Dock gra Bel enger s Pas

NEW BELGRADE Bu

lev

Belgrade Arena

ar

Branko’s Bridge

Zo

ran

aĐ

inđ

ića

Old Sava Bridge

Sava centre

Ga

ze

la

Ol d

B

a Belgrade Fair

Ada Ciganlija Best Western Šumadija

rid

ge

ay

id

lw

Br

ai

ay

R

ilw

Sav

ew

Ra

N

ge

Br

id

ge

Ču

b

Belgrade

vački

Bridg

e

ube

Panče

Dan Belgrade Port

I

Zoo

Z.

a

vin

Jo

Lj ub

in je eg Kn

(V as

in

a) Pionir Sports Hall

Botanical Garden

a

ev

šić

Nu

Zeleni venac market Dom sindikata

a Ter

ta

ar

.m

27

zije

Parliament

Tašmajdan Park New Cemetery iko ar va

Bu

lev

ar

Manjež Park

ginje

Kne

Sla

Kr

vu

alj

aA

lek

e

Zork

Kalenić’s market

sa

nd

ra

Ra Grdosla uji va ća

as

M De ak sa sim nk ov e ić

M SKC

lobođenja

a

T. venac

eva

Bulevar os

in

Šantić

Kolarče va

br

ic e

OLD TOWN

Studentski Kolarac V trg ića ase as Ča Sp ra le pi o k ća Ni

St. Sava Temple

a

rt Vajfe

a

Đorđ

D

jev

ve

na

c

k

ins

jč Bo

d

oo aW

Nikola Tesla Airport

Gardoš

Banovo brdo

Dedinje

Karaburma

%"/6#

&

Lipovička Wood

Unknown Hero Monument

/6

Mt. Avala

Jajinci Memorial Park

St. Stevan

%"

Rakovica Monastery

Voždovac

Konjarnik

BELGRADE

Vračar

Old town

Dorćol

Kovilovo

Topčider Park

Great War Island

NEW BELGRADE

Bežanijska kosa

7"

Belgrade In Your Pocket 

4"

Novi Sad, Subotica

66

Belgrade

#&

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

Zagreb, Sremska Mitrovica

67

Serbia

belgrade.inyourpocket.com

April - May 2010

www.

pocket.com

Download a free city guide at www.inyourpocket.com Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LJUBLJANA

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

December 2009 - January 2010

Ski & Spa

Our annual winter guide is back and better than ever

Best of New Year’s Eve The best and the rest as chosen by readers

Highlights of the Coast

An hour’s drive is a world away

N°9 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BLED

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Winter 2009 - Spring 2010 Including

BOHINJ & BOVEC

Ski & Spa

A comprehensive guide to Slovenia’s best resorts

Winter Masters Games

Bled hosts one of the world’s largest multi-sport recreational events

Shopping in Ljubljana N°2 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

A rundown of what the nearby capital has to offer

Europe’s leading publisher of locally produced city guides

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S