BBC GoodFood India 2013-07

eat in7eat out7eat away

TRIPLETESTEDS RECIPE

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JULY 2013 C 100

India

clever comfort food 7Lotus-stem pakodas 7Spinach rarebits 7Harissa lamb stew 7Achari meatballs 7Cherry trifle

pudding

French fries reinvented Cooking with Indian berries READER OFFER! 20% off on

4 Royal cherry trifle p 15

Preeta Mathur’s new book The Courtly Cuisine

MAGZTER COPY

(T&C apply - see p 99)

EAT OUT

Breakfasts on trial

Chez Nini’s signature Poutine

EAT AWAY Eat like a Vietnamese

Street Food Congress, Singapore

MASTERCLASS ERCLASS

Diego Palladino's alladino's Club 9 pizza izza p 144 144 14 FREE! AUGMENTED REALITY VIDEO FOR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO VIEW, TURN TO P 20

Modern comforts Pakodass and chai is a match made in monsoon heaven. Likewise, P what’s more reassuring than a bowl of gooey pasta when it’s w pouring, right? The magic of the rains is incomplete without such p ffeel-good favourites. The beauty of these beloved classics is that they never fail to please. But we think tweaking the tried-and-true is exciting too. Sometimes, a single ingredient change can feel like a total makeover. This month we take comfort fare to new, mouthwatering heights. From bhee (lotus stem)pakodass to poutine, from cake pops to cherry trifle, we’ve got wickedly clever dishes that hit all the right spots. Chips with chops It’s true. Anything plus French fries guarantees a Chip

ADDICTED TO FRENCH FRIES? We show you how to get your fix. P 84 ea ea eat att iin n moder mo mod mode modern m oder od odern o ode de de ern rn ve rn veg ggi ggie gg giie gie g ie

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meal polished clean. Countless recipes the world over are devoted to this fast food icon, an

SWEET COMFORT This upside-down cherry torte is unapologetically rich. Mmm. P 108

indicator of our collective spud obsession. Fried, baked, spicy, cheesy, we bring you seven knockout spins on the fry, even daring to take it beyond potatoes. I love the Skinny Carrot

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Photograph GARETH MORGANS

Fries livened up with tarragon, so tasty (and forgiving). Berries and drupes This month we show a bit of love to jamun and d shehtoot, luxuriant in their abundance right now. I know you might be a bit nervous about cooking with these local berries but Assistant Food Editor Kainaz Contractor’s rocksolid recipes show you how to get the best out of them. We also celebrate cherries with some ultra-dreamy desserts. A spoonful of silky Double Cherry Semifreddo will

spirit to desserts. Make the most

of them with our showstoppers

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Great balls of meat Fried for a Danish frikadeller, tucked as a kofta a in a roti wrap or steamed for a classic Cantonese dim sum, let us count the ways we love meatballs.

So what distinguishes this comfort food across various cuisines? Nuances of texture and flavour. We bring you six zippy takes on this rustic dish loved the world over. Oozing with juice and loaded with flavour, these hearty winners will satisfy all your meaty cravings.

THE ADORED I never met a cake pop I didn’t like. P 25

Kayastha food Preeta Mathur’s unique home-style Kayastha recipes lovingly documented in The Courtly Cuisine: Kayastha Kitchens through India will take you on an exotic culinary journey. Our eight exclusive recipes from the newly released book prove that good things (like the skill-intensive Riconch from Uttar Pradesh) come to those who are patient. Good first bite g news, trends, shoppin

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POT LUCK Find time to make this fall off-the-bone tender chicken. It’s a snap to master. P 100

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, Proprietor, Yogurtbay CHA i ROBIN CHATTERJEE Recipe

Food d readers get a 20 per cent off the cover price of this fascinating book. Grab it!

sticks?

Photographs RITAM BANERJEE

I hope this issue hooks you. As always, our recipes draw inspiration from around the world and encourage you to explore new cuisines, cooking methods and ingredients.

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2 BBC GoodFood

Sona Bahadur, editor JULY 2013

Chief Executive Officer Editor

Tarun Rai Sona Bahadur

Features Editor Senior Features Writer

Vidya Balachander Priyanka Hosangadi

Associate Food Editor Assistant Food Editor Consulting Editor

Amit Pamnani Kainaz Contractor Camellia Panjabi

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Good Food India is edited by Sona Bahadur and printed & published by Joji Varghese for and on behalf of Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd., The Times of India Building, 4th Floor, Dr D N Road, Mumbai 400001. Printed at Rajhans Enterprise, No 134, 4th Main Road, Industrial Town, Rajajinagar, Bangalore 560044, India. Good Food is published by Worldwide Media Pvt. Ltd. under licence from BBC Worldwide Limited, Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ. The BBC logo is a trade mark of the British Broadcasting Corporation and are used under licence by Immediate Media Company London Limited. Copyright © Immediate Media Company London Limited All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publisher makes every effort to ensure that the magazine’s contents are correct. However we accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions. Unsolicited material, including photographs and transparencies, is submitted entirely at the owner’s risk & the publisher accepts no responsibility for its loss or damage. Submissions to the magazine may also be used on the publication’s related platforms. Good Food Magazine India is not responsible for any controversies that may arise thereof. All material published in Good Food is protected by copyright and unauthorised reproduction in part or full is forbidden.

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MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE!

Contents

154 Royal cherry trifle Serves 8 Q1 hour 5 minutes + chilling Q EASY cherries 450g, reserve a few for the top and stone the rest cherry jam 340g (try Hero available at gourmet stores) Madeira orr sponge cake 450g, cut into 1cm-thick slices Kirsch orr brandy 100ml (available at premium liquor stores) amaretti biscuits 5, broken double cream 300ml, whipped lightly THE CUSTARD caster sugar 50g cornflour 50g vanilla extract 1 tsp eggs 2 large + 1 egg yolk milk 300ml double cream 300ml QFirst, make the custard by tipping the caster sugar, cornflour and vanilla into a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and egg yolk. Whisk with a hand whisk until smooth and blended. QPour the milk and double cream into a pan and heat gently until hot, but do not boil. Pour this over the egg mixture and immediately whisk until blended. Wash the pan to remove any scum from the milk and pour the custard back into the clean pan. Heat gently, 4 BBC GoodFood

stirring constantly until thickened. Don’t panic if the custard starts to look lumpy as it thickens, just continue to heat and whisk until the custard is thick and smooth. Pour into a jug and cover the surface of the custard with cling-film to prevent a skin from forming. Set aside to cool. QTip the stoned cherries into a pan with half the jam or conserve and cook over a medium heat for 5-10 minutes until softened and saucy. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly. QSpread half the slices of the Madeira cake generously with the remaining cherry jam. Sandwich with the remaining cake slices, then cut in half. QPour the Kirsch or brandy into a shallow bowl, dip each sponge sandwich into the liqueur, then arrange in the base of the trifle dish (you will need a shallow, straightsided, 20cm round glass dish about 5cm deep). Line the edges of the dish first to create a stripey effect, then fill in the centre with the remaining sandwiches, pouring over any remaining liquid. QSpoon over the cherries and any juice from the pan, then scatter over the broken biscuits. Pour over the cooled custard, then spread whipped cream over the top. Decorate with fresh whole cherries and chill for a few hours, or make it a day ahead and chill for up to 24 hours before serving. Q PER SERVING 886 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 94g, fat 50g, sat fat 29g, fibre 1g, sugar 75g, salt 0.9g

90

118

eat in

eat out

Inspiring, seasonal recipes that work every time

Restaurants on trial and cafés with character

58 7 MEALS FOR ` 700

118 RESTAURANT SPY

A week’s worth of stylish meals

66 LUNCHBOX Snappy lunchbox ideas

68 READY IN 30 Quick recipes ready in a jiffy

75 IN SEASON Cooking with jamun and shehtoot

Breakfasts on trial

126 PRO VS PUNTER The Flying Elephant, Chennai

128 OFF THE EATEN TRACK The National Lodge, Chennai

132 SIGNATURE DISH Chez Nini’s Poutine

84 MODERN VEGGIE French fries with a twist

90 WEEKEND Meatballs from around the world

98 ENTERTAINING Try a Kayastha meal at home

106 SHOW OFF Sophisticated cherry desserts

150 SUBSCRIBE to Good Food India

MAGZTER COPY PRO vss PUNTER Feel like the average diner doesn’t always agree with professional reviews? Become our punter in the ‘Pro vs Punter’ section and review a restaurant along with a seasoned pro. To apply, write to us at [email protected].

JULY 2013

July 2013 38 FOOD ISSUE BBC Good Food investigates palm oil

42 BOOKS AND COOKS July’s must-read food tomes

masterclass 143 COOK LIKE A PRO Sharpen your chopping skills with a mezzaluna

134 eat away Foodie holiday ideas and recipes from around the world

144 MASTERCLASS Diego Palladino’s stepby-step Club 9 pizza

148 DO IT YOURSELF Dress up your brekkies with jamun jam

70

Smoked salmon and asparagus fettuccine

149 WINE GUIDE 134 EAT LIKE A LOCAL: VIETNAM Authentic flavours from the former French colony

140 POSTCARD FROM SINGAPORE

Robust and full-bodied Tuscan reds

154 SHOWSTOPPER Decadent Royal cherry trifle

Out & about JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

Karen Anand visits the World Street Food Congress Delhi

first bite

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25 FIRST BITE Cake pops are the dessert du jour

28 NEWS, TRENDS AND SHOPPING New restaurants, trends we like and more

34 ON TEST Frozen chicken nuggets and potato mashers

36 BARGAIN HUNTER Best value foodie events, meals and deals JULY 2013

Q

Q

10 OVER TO YOU Reader recipes, comments and letters

Singapore

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THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY 7BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with a readership of over 1.1 million. 7bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site attracting 3.7 million unique users per month. 7The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over 70,000 downloads till date.

BBC GoodFood 5

Over to you For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you, our readers, to keep us on the pulse

Write to us! We love hearing from you. Email us your feedback, your favourite recipes and your comments at [email protected]. Let’s be in touch!

GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE Chuki sabut mattar (tender and spiced pea pods) Serves 8-10 Q30 minutes Q EASY Make sure you select tender and young green peas. The full pod is cooked with tangy masala. While eating, the whole pod is put in the mouth, holding one end of the pod with the fingers. It is clenched between the front teeth, then pulled out, leaving the peas and the tender pod skin in the mouth.

REALLY

REALLY ghee 2 tbsp EASY asafoetida (hing) a big pinch cumin seeds 1/2 tsp young pea pods 1kg, washed and drained 6 BBC GoodFood

salt to taste garam masala powder 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder 1 tsp dried mango powder (amchoor) 3-4 tsp QHeat the ghee in a wok; add the asafoetida and cumin seeds. When the seeds start crackling, add the whole pea pods. QSprinkle salt, garam masala and red chilli powder. Reduce the heat and cook. Sprinkle water, if required. When the peas are tender, sprinkle the mango powder and mix well. Serve hot. Q PER SERVING 137.88 kcals, protein 7.01g, carbs 18.58g, fat 4.33g, sat fat 2.24g, fibre 6.49g, salt 1g

Good Food reader Iti Mittal dishes on her favourite eateries in Ghaziabad 7BREAKFAST Udupi Krishna (+0120 4376813) at Navyug Market is perfect for a wholesome breakfast. The fuss-free vegetarian eatery serves a superlative rawa onion dosa prepared with pure ghee. Do not forget to ask for extra rasam on the side. Meal for two, ` 400. 7LUNCH Head to the multi-cuisine restaurant, Cinch (+91 8527000224) at Raj Nagar for Mediterranean, Chinese or North Indian fare. The dal makhani is to die for, mopped up with mirchi lachha paratha. Skip the Indianised Chinese and opt for the hearty Moroccan Pot Roast Chicken instead. They also offer vegetarian and non-vegetarian mezze platters. Meal for two, ` 800. Madan Sweets and Food Point (+0120 2719314) is a must visit for a post-lunch sweet treat. Try the raj bhog (` 30 for two pieces) and warm jalebis (` 12 for 100 grams). Don’t miss out on the seasonal moong dal halwa during the winter months. 7DINNER Visit Raja Dhaba, (+0120 2322794) a tiny, no-frills eatery for authentic Punjabi and Mughlai fare. Sample the juicy kaju chicken with missi rotis right off the tawa. The anda paratha is a must-have. Meal for two, ` 350.

HOW YOU PIMPED IT This recipe is perfect for a quick weekday dinner. I substituted pea pods with frozen peas since they weren’t in season and boiled them till soft before cooking. The amchoor gives this dish a lovely tangy punch. The dish is extremely simple to make but packed with delicate flavours and can be served with roti or eaten by itself as a snack. Priyanka Gothi is a digital marketing professional with a leading food company who loves cooking and food photography. She lives in Gurgaon.

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM Our Taste Team comprises readers and home cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback on what they liked and what they would do differently. Write to us at [email protected] to join us. JULY 2013

Photograph MAYANK SONI

FOOD NATION Ghaziabad

over to you readers write

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INSIDERS’ POLL

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What’s your favourite comfort snack on a rainy day?

LETTER OF THE MONTH A yeaar ago, for f me, BBC BC Go GGood ood FFood od oo Dear Editor,

was a magazine i th that h contained t fabulous recipes, reminiscent of restaurantstyle dishes. Since most of the ingredients were

READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH Good Food d reader Mugdha Goud is a Mumbai-based management consultant who enjoys cooking. She shares the recipe for Melon trifle with us.

not available easily in the small town where I

Melon trifle

live, the issues had to be filed away for future

Serves 4 Q20 minutes + refrigeration Q EASY

use. But of late, the recipes for flavoured butter, flowery sherbets, delicious ice creams and quark cheese have kept me happily busy in the kitchen. Each and every recipe has ingredients that are locally available, yet has an interesting twist to it. Thank you for showing us the way to use our local produce in several imaginative ways. - Alka Bhayana, Hisar, Haryana The winner of the letter of the month for this issue wins a special festive hamper worth ` 5,000 from Foodhall. The hamper is filled with tempting goodies like Kalamata olives, extra virgin olive oil, penne rigate, basil crackers , chocolate fondue, Lemnos jalapeno cream cheese  and Jamie Oliver’s chilli salt . To write in to the magazine, email us at bbcgo g odfood@ wwm. m co co.in and include yo your address s an and telephone number.

JULY 2013

Spoon a layer of cut fruit in the glasses, followed by a layer of cream. Top with another layer of fruit and chill. QFor the topping, mix 30g polenta, 25g almonds, 30g sugar, 1/4 tsp cinnamon powderr and 35g butter in a mixer until crumbly. Spread the mixture on a baking tray and bake at 180°C for 10 minutes. Cool. Add 2 tbsp of the crisp topping on each trifle just before serving.

QCut 2 small muskmelons and 1/2 a watermelon into small cubes and preserve the juice. Add 2 tsp sugar to the fruit and chill. Use pieces of half a muskmelon and grind into a purée along with the excess juices. Add 1 tsp lemon juice and 2 tsp sugar. QWhip 150ml cream till it holds soft peaks and fold in the muskmelon puree.

The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth ` 2,000 from Dalmia Continental Pvt Ltd (DCPL), a leading company of premium wellness foods. The hamper contains an array of products from DCPL’s Leonardo brand, such as extra virgin olive oil, olive pomace oil, whole wheat pasta, premium pasta, premium pickle in olive oil, pimento stuffed olives, black sliced olives and two recipe booklets. Interact with other Good Food readers on Facebook at facebook.com/GoodFood MagazineIndia or follow us on Twitter at twitter.com/goodfoodmagin. BBC GoodFood 7

In this issue TRACEY LISTER



 DIEGO PALLADINO

After spending more than 20 years as a chef in Melbourne, Australian cookery book author Tracey Lister took a sabbatical in Hanoi along with her husband Andreas Pohl. Based in the Vietnamese capital, she runs the successful Hanoi Cooking Centre, which offers cooking classes and courses in Vietnamese cuisine. Lister and her husband and co-author published their first book KOTO – A Culinary Journey through Vietnam in 2008, followed by Vietnamese Street Food d in 2011. Tracey takes you on a culinary tour of Vietnam with a menu of authentic recipes in Eat like a Local on p 134.

 NIRA SINGH



Chef Diego Palladino is the International Brand Owner of the UK-based Pizza Metro Pizza chain. He set up its first Indian outpost in Mumbai in 2012. After working with establishments like The Ritz in London and Lido in Paris, he acquired Pizza Metro Pizza in 2003. The trattoria has since won the UK PAPA (The Pizza Pasta & Italian Food Association) award and Hardens award for best pizza in London. He teaches you how to make the chain’s popular Club 9 pizza from scratch in Masterclass on p 144.

Nira Singh is the proprietor and chef of Chez Nini in Delhi, a restaurant that bears her childhood nickname and specialises in French-Canadian cuisine. Born and brought up in Montreal, Singh considers growing up in the city a culinary and cultural privilege. She trained to become a professional chef at the ITHQ (Institute of Hotel and Tourism of Quebec) and completed her training at several restaurants in Montreal. Singh shares the recipe for Chez Nini’s signature Poutine in Signature Dish on p 132.

ASHWIN RAJAGOPALAN

PREETA MATHUR



hwin Rajagopalan is a Chennai-based freelance writer d blogger with a passion for travel and food. His writings ve appeared in GQ India and other publications. By his own scription, he goes the extra mile to discover a new culinary perience but is equally fascinated by traditional cuisine and dacious reinterpretations of classic dishes. Rajagopalan gives Chennai’s unassuming — but excellent — National Lodge the status it deserves in Off the Eaten Track on p 128.

Preeta Mathur is a Noida-based food columnist whose rece book is The Courtly Cuisine: Kayastha Kitchens Through Ind Mathur, who belongs to the Kayastha community, pays trib to her culinary legacy in this book that brings together Kayastha dishes from across India. Uncover the earthy flavours of her distinctive recipes in Entertaining, on p 98. 8 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

Get to know us Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for. Here’s what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India: first bite news, trends, shopping

first bite itt news,, trends, shopping

pop stars

first bite We x cak ake e pops

7First Bite

Want to o indulge, yet practice practice porrttion control? The These bite-sized ze cakelets are are perfect!

After all, what could be more ado Afte orable able — a and scrumptiou scrumptious — than tha cake on lollipop sticks?

Cake pops Makes 30 Q50 minutes + baking + cooling QEASY

Recipe ROBIN OBIN CHATTERJEE, CHAT Proprietor, Yogurtbay Photographs RITAM BANERJEE

brown sugar 165g (try Mawana available at gourmet stores) unsalted butter 225g eggs 2 self-raising flour 150g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) cocoa powder 30g dark cooking chocolate 200g, chopped (try Morde available at gourmet stores) dark compound chocolate 375g, chopped, for melting (try Callebaut available at gourmet stores) vegetable oil 1 1/2 tsp white compound chocolate 120g, chopped, for melting (try Callebaut available at gourmet stores) chocolate chips and chocolate sprinkles to decorate bamboo skewers 30 small Styrofoam block 1

SWEET TALKERS Incredibly ncredibly ibly y easy to make,, these th hese petite creation creatio onss are a e a cross be between a mini ni cake ake ke e and an a lollipop. ollipop. pop. p. T The chocolate ocolat colate e shel shell s frosting g gives giv giv way y to o moist, moist st crumbly goodness goodness ass you y bite bi in. Impart m finishing hing ng touches ess by decorating ing them with sprinkle sprinkles es, cchocolate chips c , fondant, ant ant, flavoured voured icing or candy. We’r We’re e eyeing the dark chocolate ocolat cake pops from fr Kishi A Arora’s Foodaholics in Delhi, along with Mumbai-based Mumbai-based Not Just unusual peanutt butte Desserts’ unusual er cake ake pops. They make for or th the cutest utest little treats treats at picn picnics, baby showers or birt birthday hday parties. What’s not to love? love?

QPreheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm round cake tin with butter paper. Line a large oven tray with butter paper too. QUsing an electric mixer beat the sugar and 125g butter in a bowl until pale and creamy. Slowly add the eggs, beating well between each addition. Sift the flour and cocoa powder over the butter mixture, and stir to combine. Spoon into the prepared pan and smoothen the surface. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Turn onto a wire rack to cool completely. QMeanwhile, combine 200g dark cooking chocolate and the remaining butter in a medium bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let the water touch the base of the bowl). Stir the mixture occasionally with a metal spoon, for 5 minutes or until smooth and glossy. Remove from heat, and set aside for 30 minutes, or until slightly thickened and cooled. QBreak the cake into pieces and place them into the bowl of a food processor. Process until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Place in a large bowl and add the chocolate mixture. Stir until well combined. QRoll tablespoons of the cake mixture into balls and place on the lined tray. Refrigerate for 3 hours or until firm. QPlace the other 375g dark compound chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir with a spoon so that it melts. Add vegetable oil and stir to combine. QDip the end of one skewer in the chocolate then insert into a ball. Return to the tray. Repeat with the remaining balls, and rest for 5 minutes or until set. QDip a cake ball into melted chocolate, turning to coat, and tap gently on

TIPS QThe cake pops should ideally be dipped in compound chocolate rather than pure chocolate, since the former doesn’t need tempering and will not melt at room temperature. QIf you are pressed for time, you can use Pillsbury’s Funfetti Cake Pop Mix, available on zansaar.com. (Sprinkles and other decorating material is available at Arife Stores in Mumbai, or on websites like gourmetco.in and bakersmart.co.in)

the side of the bowl to remove excess. Insert the skewer in the Styrofoam to set. Repeat with remaining balls and chocolate. Set aside for 30 minutes to set. QTo make pops with a white chocolate coating, place the white compound chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir with a spoon so that it melts. Remove from heat and set aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly. QSpoon a little melted chocolate over the top of each cake pop. Top with some white chocolate. Decorate with chocolate chips and chocolate sprinkles. Return to Styrofoam to set completely.

Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow. First Bite brings you the month’s freshest food buzz — new launches, events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 25

eat ea e at in in show how w off o

7Eat In

Recipe Recipe cipe pe e JANE JA ANE E HORNBY H HOR OR RN NB Photograph MYLE YLES LES ES S NEW NEW WS Styling yli g LISA LIS SA A HARRISO H HARRISON HA HARR Food styling styling JANE JA AN NE E HORN HORNBY HO OR RNB BY

Juicy cherries bring a summertime spirit to desserts. Make the most of them with our showstoppers

The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. We’ve got everything covered — from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and kid-friendly recipes bursting with flavours. P 57 Upside-down pside-down side-down de-down e-down e-d d wn n cherr c cher he h ry torte tto orte rrte (recipe ecipe cipe overleaf) overleaf overlea overl erlea rle e )

eat out restaurant reviews

vs Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about a restaurant as a food pro who might be recognised and get special treatment? Good Food d reader Jaya Chaturvedi and food writer Karen Anand have their own takes on The Flying Elephant in Chennai THE RESTAURANT

THE PRO

Karen Anand is a Pune-based food writer, entrepreneur and consultant. She recently organised the Indian chapter of the international Taste festival in Mumbai.

THE FLYING ELEPHANT The Flying Elephant at Park Hyatt is an opulent fine dining restaurant offering inventive Turkish, Southeast Asian and Indian fare. It is spread over seven levels including a private lounge area, a vibrant al fresco dining space and six interactive kitchens. The menu features delicacies such as Chilean sea bass, a range of Turkish grills, Chicken Satay with Peanut and Chilli Sauce, Chestnut Tagliatelle, pavlovas and an eclectic list of Prohibition-era cocktails. QThe Flying Elephant, Park Hyatt Chennai, 39, Velachery Road, Near Raj Bhavan, Chennai. Tel: +91 44 71771234. Daily 7 pm onwards. Average spend for two: ` 3,000. Pushy table turning? No Regular water offered? Yes Veggie options? ? Plenty to choose from

THE PU P NTER

Jaya Chaturvedi is a Chennai-based banker who eats out regularly and keeps tab of trends in food and dining.

Pan Pa aneer neer ttiiikka k kka

Mussels ussels els with th whit white h te wi wine wine, w ine ch chilli, chilli hil ffen fenne fenn ennel, e garlic and parsl arsley ley

Signature chocolate cake

FIRST S IMPR P ESSI SION NS

THE SERVICE

THE FOOD

THE VERDICT

THE BILL

Much has been written about The Flying Elephant since its launch in March this year. Given the whacky name, the press blitz and Hyatt’s reputation for great food, my expectations are high. But The Flying Elephant is quite different. Boasting six interactive kitchens and a culinary theatre, it resembles Studio 54 in New York: a multistoried vision in glass with seating, bars and open kitchens on all floors and staff that belt out the chorus of a popular song. It’s a happening place that could well be in NYC — something I least expect to find in Chennai. It is calculated carelessness in an orchestrated five-star sort of way, and it works.

As expected, the service is efficient with wellinformed managers on hand and chefs happy to step out of their designated areas to help you navigate through the food menu and speakeasy-inspired cocktail menu.

This is really where The Flying Elephant reigns supreme. If you can get past the theatrics of the vertical dining, the blanket of glass and staff singing away, the food is outstanding. There are tasting menus for the uninitiated. The menu itself is simple enough — appetisers, soups, vegetarian main courses, shellfish, pizza, poultry and so on. I share the Peruvian Green Asparagus with Truffle Salsa and Parmigiano Reggiano shavings. Priced close to ` 1,000, it isn’t cheap but is perfectly executed: thick batons of juicy green asparagus are lightly grilled and the truffle salsa isn’t overpowering. We also try the Pan Fried Calamari with Chorizo, Artichokes and Bell Peppers. It reminds me of southern Spanish tapas. The raw artichokes are thinly sliced, lightly grilled and drizzled with a little olive oil. The quality is superb and the simplicity, stunning. For mains, I have the Pan Fried Chilean Sea Bass with Fresh Fennel and a Lemon Sabayon, which tastes like a light hollandaise emulsion. The portion is large for such an expensive fish but is so delicious and so perfectly cooked that I actually manage to finish it! No room for sides, cereals or any dessert. Instead, I treat myself to another cocktail. The Fallen Angel, with champagne, elderflower liqueur and lychee is a winner. I then try Happily Ever After, a long drink with crushed grapes, Chardonnay and Absolut vodka.

The food is outstanding and the ambience is highly charged and especially exciting on a Saturday night. However, the food is not the lone star here — the overall ‘happening’ vibe shines as well.

Anand’s meal for two including two cocktails, appetisers and a main course was ` 4,000 excluding taxes.

The restaurant, located at the lobby level of the Park Hyatt, is exquisitely designed. Spanning multiple levels, the lowermost one is a lounge area while the rest exudes a very casual vibe. The outdoor seating is lovely but tends to get a bit warm during the Chennai summer. The tables in the lounge remind me of a warm and cosy English bar, but the DJ belting out club tracks is a bit of a damp squib and the soundtrack does not complement the otherwise charming ambience at all.

The service is a tad lacklustre, though the staff is extremely courteous. There is a need for more efficiency — it takes me quite a few minutes to catch a server’s eye for something as simple as a refill of ice and we are left to fend for ourselves in the interim. The service doesn’t keep pace with the pleasant ambience and doesn’t justify the money that one has to shell out for a meal.

The restaurant serves Indian, Mediterranean and European cuisine. We Dining at The Flying order the Warm Mezze Platter that includes stuffed phyllo, zucchini fritters, Elephant doesn’t live falafels, dips and pita bread. The falafels are crisp and make for an excellent up to my expectations. accompaniment to the pita bread. The zucchini fritters are my pick from this While the ambience platter, which has great flavours but is not innovative enough. For mains, my is excellent and the companion orders Chicken Biryani that is very sportingly prepared by the food is reasonably chef, even though it is not listed on the menu. It is flavourful and perfectly good, the service is spiced. We also order the Paneer with Spinach and Pistachio in a Roasted average. The menu Onion Gravy, which is creamy and delicious. The fresh flavour of the spinach largely leans towards is complemented by the earthiness of the pistachios and the richness of the European cuisine, and onion gravy. The Dal Makhani is creamy but needs more spice. The dessert, offers more variety however, is flawless. The Tiramisu is perfect, with the coffee and mascarpone to a non-vegetarian in perfect harmony. Overall, the food appears appetising and tastes good too, than a vegetarian. The but is slightly bland for those who club music is Want to review a restaurant? have a preference for spicy fare. definitely a For a chance to become Good Food’s Though the flavours are perfect, mood killer. next punter, email a 200-word review no dish grabs my attention and the of any restaurant you’ve visited, waitstaff are not forthcoming with with the heading ‘Pro vs Punter’, to [email protected] with your suggestions either.

FOOD: 9/10 ATMOSPHERE: 8/10 SERVICE: 8/10 TOTAL: 25/30 GO AGAIN? For sure!

Chaturvedi’s meal for two including an appetiser, two mains and a dessert was ` 3,000 excluding taxes.

FOOD: 6/10 ATMOSPHERE: 9/10 SERVICE: 6/10 TOTAL: 21/30 GO AGAIN? Not really. It is too expensive, the food is average and the service slow.

7Eat Out This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus, we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature recipes to make at home. P 117

contact details. You could be the lucky one!

ea eat e att a away aw awa wa Viettnam Vi Vietnam nam nam

eat like a local

7Eat Away

VIETNAM With its perfect balance of hot, sweet, spicy and sour elements, Vietnam’s stunning food is best enjoyed on its chaotic streets

Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who often live in the featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy, authentic menus from around the world while Budget and Blowout shows you how to get your wallet’s worth when travelling. And City On the Plate features the insider’s food guide to an Indian or international city. P 133

Text, recipes and photographs adapted from VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD and KOTO: A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH VIETNAM by TRACEY LISTER and ANDREAS POHL Photographs by MICHAEL FOUNTOULAKIS Published by HARDIE GRANT BOOKS

I

t is often said that life in Vietnam happens on the streets. This is particularly true in the overcrowded inner cities, where it sometimes seems that the Vietnamese conduct their daily life, if not exclusively on the sidewalk, then in plain view of the streets. Eating on the street also plays an important part in daily life. The Vietnamese version of alfresco dining is such a natural extension of street life, so widespread and common, that it is easy to overlook how fairly recent the phenomenon of the so-called com bui, literally ‘dust meals’, really is. Traditionally, family meals at home were sacred, but historical upheavals and changes in work practices created an eating culture with roving food vendors and street stalls to feed the hungry masses away from their houses. The wars for national independence against the French and the Americans from 1945 to 1975 displaced scores of people. These changes revolutionised not only the way the country was run, but also the way the country ate. Kerbside dining fits Vietnam’s collectivist culture of doing things together. Eating alone is frowned upon. Even if one eats alone, one isn’t lonely, but connected to fellow diners and the surrounding community. The shift from eating at home or in more upmarket restaurants to casual kerbside dining also marks a transition

from a feudal, class-ridden society to a more equal one — a new society where peasants and civil servants, students and shop owners can share a bench and slurp their noodle soups side by side. Pho bo or beef noodle soup is probably the closest the country has to a national dish. Said to have originated in the northern Nam Dinh province, it consists of rice noodles in a rich broth, topped with finely sliced beef, shallots, beansprouts, basil and a generous dollop of chilli sauce. Phoo with chicken ((pho ga) was initially considered a soup for women and children, and before 1945, only one stall in Hanoi made pho ga. Nowadays, the soup is a wellloved alternative to the heavy pho bo, particularly during summer. Although phoo is originally a northern Vietnamese dish, it has been adopted by the south and the recipes changed in the process. Hot on the heels of phoo is the bun cha a – chargrilled pork patties floating in a tangy dipping sauce, served with cold vermicelli (bun) and an assortment of herbs and salad leaves. It is often served with nem ran, fried spring rolls, on a separate plate. While phoo is traditionally a breakfast or early dinner, bun cha firmly occupies the lunchtime slot. The French left Vietnam in 1954, but they left behind an enduring love for fresh, crusty baguettes, banh mi. Here, baguettes are made from a wheat and rice flour mixture, which results in very airy bread that has a thin, crisp

MENU FOR 6 7Noodle soup with chicken 7Green mango salad 7Lemongrass tofu 7Caramel fish with galangal 7Fruit cups

Pho bo or beef noodle soup is loved by all

Nood N oodle oo ood odle dle le es soup so sou with w chicke chicken hicken icken cken ken ke en

Caramel fish with galangal

A local stall heaped with fresh artichokes

Noodle soup with chicken KOTO: A Culinary Journey through Vietnam m is available from flipkart.com for ` 2,006. Vietnamese Street Food d is available from amazon.com for ` 1,120.

Serves 6 Q1 hour 10 minutes + simmering QEASY Pho ga was invented during the Japanese occupation in the 1940s when beef was very hard to come by, which is why this dish is sometimes considered the poor cousin of the more famous beef noodle soup, pho bo. This is a lighter, easier variation of pho. red Asian shallots 8 ginger, a 4cm knob, halved whole chicken 1.6kg salt 1 tsp cinnamon 1 stick star anise 4 sugar 2 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) noodles 300g, raw spring onions 3, sliced + 3, cut into strips

masterclass chef skills

DIEGO PALLADINO’S

Masterclass Chef Diego Palladino, International Brand Owner of Pizza Metro Pizza, guides you step by step on how to make the pizzeria’s innovative Club 9 pizza Recipe DIEGO PALLADINO Photographs PAROMA MUKHERJEE

Club 9 Makes 2 large pizzas Q 30 minutes + resting Q MODERATELY EASY The pairing of okra and potato in a pizza is unusual, but it definitely works. The fried okra provides a wonderfully crisp contrast to the mushy potatoes and the salty cheese. yeast 3 tsp warm water 1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp strong plain flour 4 cups, sifted salt 2 tsp THE TOPPINGS olive oil 3 tbsp + extra for greasing fresh mozzarella 100g, chopped (try Impero available at gourmet stores) onions 60g, sliced and fried potatoes 6, cubed and oven roasted with olive oil and rosemary okra 50g, fried to a crisp basil leaves 6 + 6 more to garnish green chillies 3-5, finely chopped breadcrumbs a handful goat’s cheese 20g parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

PIZZA MAKING TIPS

E! IVIPES EP REC EXCLUS Y-ST video STEP-B a bonus

Watch Metro Pizza’s of Pizzaomba pizza. Cicciob on p 20 Details

Q The resting time for the dough depends on the weather. Colder climates demand longer proving hours while warm climates call for 15 minutes or less. Q Knead the dough well and make it springy enough to stretch it out. Q If it looks too wet initally, don’t add extra flour. Wait until all the flour is evenly mixed into the yeast and then add more if required. Avoid drying out the dough.

7Masterclass Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurantperfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is perfect for wine lovers. P 144

How to get the best from Good Food India Why y you y can cook our recipes with confidence

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All the recipes in Good Food are tested thoroughly, so they’ll work the first time for you at home. Most of our recipes are developed in the Good Food test kitchen by our cookery team or come from food writers and chefs. We aim to make our recipes as practical as possible, keeping ingredient lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparations.

EASY Recipes everyone can make, even beginners. These dishes are usually quick, often on the table within 20 minutes. MODERATELY EASY These require a bit more skill – for example making and rolling out pastry. A LITTLE EFFORT Recipes aimed at experienced cooks who cook for pleasure and like a challenge. CAN BE FROZEN Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes. JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.

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The first time is by the recipe writer, who tests the recipe in a domestic kitchen. Next, a member of the cookery team makes the recipe in the Good Food India kitchen. The recipe is then tested at our photo shoot. Some recipes are tested a fourth time at home by individual members of the Good Food editorial team — we’re all keen cooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe we particularly love, as soon as we’ve discovered it. Testing our recipes three times or more may seem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly, so we think it makes sense to ensure you get the right result every time.

Over to you Have a family recipe to share or think you could add to our recipes? Email us at bbcgoodfood@wwm. co.in and let us know. We’re always on the look out for new places and food stories and would love to hear about great places to eat in your hometown.

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Those recipes marked with this stamp are the simplest and require very little effort.

REALLY REALLY QUICK K

Recipes that can be made under 20 minutes. Perfect for hectic weekdays.

with the cloves, cinnamon , green cardamoms and rice. QCook the rice and drain in a colander. Remove the whole spices. Heat the one-strand sugar syrup. Add the rice and stir gently for a minute. Cook for 10 minutes till all the liquid is reduced. QAdd the khoya, dried fruits, ghee and saffron mixture. Serve garnished with silver leaves (optional) . Q PER SERVING 973.5 kcals, protein 8.42g, carbs 180.55g, fat 27.23g, sat fat 16.41g, fibre 0.42g, salt 0.1g

Phirni (thickened rice pudding) Serves 6-8 Q35

full-cream milk 1l rice 3 tbsp, soaked in water for 1 hour, drained, and ground to a paste sugar 250g, powdered green cardamoms 5, powdered raisins 10 rosewater 1 tbsp saffron a big pinch, soaked in 2 tbsp warm water almonds 20, blanched, skinned and slivered

Meetha chawal (sweetened rice)

Serves 8-10 Q1 hour

Q EASY

This sweet and fragrant rice dessert is cooked with dry fruits, sugar and flavoured with saffron. A delicious alternative to milky rice kheer!

FOR SKILLED COOKS S

Show-off recipes when you fancy a challenge. These recipes require a little effort.

minutes Q EASY

Cold phirni served in earthen bowls l with nuts is an excellent, cooling dessert. The aroma of the clay bowls lends a unique earthy flavour.

THE ONE-STRAND SUGAR SYRUP sugarr 750g waterr 300ml saffron, a pinch dissolved in warm water THE RICE cloves 8-10

cinnamon a 1-inch stick, halved green cardamoms 10 REALLY R basmati rice 3 cups REALLY khoya 250g, crumbled EASY Y dried fruits (almond, pistachios and charoli) 2 tbsp, slivered ghee 200g saffron a big pinch, dissolved in 7-8 drops of screw pine water (kevda) or rosewater QTo make the syrup, boil the sugar and water together. Stir constantly to avoid the sugar from crystallising. Add the saffron mixture and keep aside. This will take 30 minutes. QBoil 2 1/2 litres of water along

pistachios 10, blanched, skinned and slivered QBoil the milk in a heavy-bottomed pot; add the rice paste. Stir constantl y with a whisk, so that there are no lumps. QWhen it is thick and creamy, y add the sugar and cardamom powder. Add the raisins, rosewater and saffron mixture; mix well. QPour into earthen bowls (shakoras) or silver bowls. Serve sprinkled with slivered almonds and pistachios. Q PER SERVING 236.63 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 42.49g, fat 5.66g, sat fat 3g, fibre 0.5g, salt none

For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 153 10 BBC GoodFood

THE GOOD FOOD INDIA PROMISE We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and doing it sustainably. Here’s what you can expect from this and every issue: TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested at least three times. For great results, we recommend you use standard level measuring spoons, and don’t mix imperial and metric measures. EASY RECIPES Most of Good Food’s recipes are quick and simple to follow and can be made using easily available ingredients. THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for elaborate meals and entertaining. We’ve included a smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a good challenge. GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to make the most of your budget — 7 meals for ` 700. We also use full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid waste, but if that’s not possible we aim to suggest ways of using up leftovers. SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients in our recipes because they give the food a distinct flavour and add seasonal freshness. This month, we’re eating a lot of jamun and shehtoot. HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20% indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support our recipes with nutritional info. We’ll also tell you how to give popular recipes a healthy makeover. PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs, sustainably sourced fish and unrefined sugar. INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Y Sometimes, recipes call for ingredients that aren’t available locally and can’t be brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It’s your choice whether or not you use them. CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall eateries and fine dining restaurants — there’s room for both in Good Food’s Eat Out pages. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms you with insider info and recipes from the world’s most exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food journalists. BIG ISSUES Preaching doesn’t come naturally, so we won’t tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world in our Good Food Investigates feature. We tell you why palm oil consumption is a matter of concern on p 38. JULY 2013

How to make sense of Good Food’s augmented reality (AR) special View our AR feature embedded in this issue with three easy-as-pie steps:

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Get the ALIVE app: Give a missed call to 18001023324 or visit aliveapp.in

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TRIPLETESTED RECIPES

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clever comfort food 7Lotus-stem pakodas 7Spinach rarebits 7Harissa lamb stew 7Achari meatballs 7Cherry trifle

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pudding

French fries reinvented Cooking with Indian berries READER OFFER! 20% off on

4 Royal cherry trifle p 15

Open the ALIVE app on your phone and scan the cover or the Masterclass page (p 144) with the ALIVE logo by focusing your phone’s camera on it. Android/iPhone: Hold still and it will scan automatically. BB/Symbian: Go to Options, then capture image. Windows: Tap on screen to capture and hold still over image.

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Preeta Mathur’s new book The Courtly Cuisine (T&C apply - see p 99)

EAT OUT

EAT AWAY

Chez N Nini’s ini’s i’s signat gnature ure Poutine

St Street Food o Congress, Congre ss ss, Singapore

Breakfasts on trial

Eat lik like a Vietn etnam mese

MASTERCLASS ERCLASS

Voila! Watch your favourite recipe, Pizza Metro Pizza’s Cicciobomba pizza, come ALIVE on your mobile device. You will get various options that’ll enable you to view, save and share these features.

Dieg Diego eg g Pa Pa alladino's lladino's Club C lub ub b 9 piizza zza p 14 144 FREE! AUGMENTED REALITY VIDEO FOR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO VIEW, TURN TO P 20

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TRIPLETESTED RECIPES

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JULY 2013 C 100

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clever comfort food

masterclass chef skills

DIEGO PALLADINO’S

Masterclass Chef Diego Palladino, International Brand Owner of Pizza Metro Pizza, guides you step by step on how to make the pizzeria’s innovative Club 9 pizza Recipe DIEGO PALLADINO Photographs PAROMA MUKHERJEE

Club 9 Makes 2 large pizzas Q 30 minutes + resting Q MODERATELY EASY

7Lotus-stem pakodas 7Spinach rarebits 7Harissa lamb stew 7Achari meatballs 7Cherry trifle

The pairing of okra and potato in a pizza is unusual, but it definitely works. The fried okra provides a wonderfully crisp contrast to the mushy potatoes and the salty cheese. yeast 3 tsp warm water 1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp strong plain flour 4 cups, sifted salt 2 tsp THE TOPPINGS olive oil 3 tbsp + extra for greasing fresh mozzarella 100g, chopped (try Impero available at gourmet stores) onions 60g, sliced and fried potatoes 6, cubed and oven roasted with olive oil and rosemary okra 50g, fried to a crisp basil leaves 6 + 6 more to garnish green chillies 3-5, finely chopped breadcrumbs a handful goat’s cheese 20g parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

pudding

French fries reinvented Cooking with Indian berries READER OFFER! 20% off on

4 Royal cherry trifle p 15

PIZZA MAKING TIPS

Preeta Mathur’s new book The Courtly Cuisine (T&C apply - see p 99)

EAT OUT

EAT AWAY

Chez Nini’s Ni i’ signature ignatur atur Poutine

Street Food Fo Congress, ngres gres Singapore

Breakfasts on trial

Eat like ike ea Vietn etnam mese mese

MASTERCLASS ERCLASS Diego Pa Dieg Pa alladino's lladino's Club 9 p pizza izza p 144 144 14 FREE! AUGMENTED REALITY VIDEO

STEPa bonus video

Watch Metro Pizza’s of Pizzaomba pizza. Cicciob on p 20 Details

Q The resting time for the dough depends on the weather. Colder climates demand longer proving hours while warm climates call for 15 minutes or less. Q Knead the dough well and make it springy enough to stretch it out. Q If it looks too wet initally, don’t add extra flour. Wait until all the flour is evenly mixed into the yeast and then add more if required. Avoid drying out the dough.

FOR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO VIEW, TURN TO P 20

P1 Scan our cover with the ALIVE app and watch Chef Diego Palladino’s masterclass of Pizza Metro Pizza‘s signature recipe.

JULY 2013

E! IVIPES USREC EXCL -BY-STEP

P 144 Masterclass Alternatively, you could scan the Masterclass page to watch Palladino’s pizza lesson on video.

CICCIOBOMBA PIZZA ON VIDEO Pizza with meatballs, you say? You heard us right. This month we’re showing our love for meatballs, and this unusual pizza with meatballs, mozzarella, tomato, ham, salami, black olives, mushrooms and sausage is just the antidote for a rainy day. In all its excessive glory, this pie is unbashedly meaty, yet the crisp pizza base never gives way. Take note and watch Pizza Metro Pizza’s International Brand Owner and Chef Diego Palladino as he rustles up one of the chain’s signature recipes in the authentic Italian way. Buon appetito!

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All about BBC Good Food India’s Privilege Programme At BBC Good Food India a, we believe no reader of ours should ever have to sit down to anything less than a king’s feast. Which is why when you subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers. You can swing by over 150 hand-picked fine dining restaurants and enjoy special prices, welcome drinks and complimentary desserts. Or head out on fabulous culinary tours and gastronomic adventures around the globe. You can also stock your larder with exotic ingredients and fine wines or pick up fancy chef’s paraphernalia for the kitchen and bar. To savour this lavish offer, visit goodfoodprivileges.in.

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first bite news, trends, shopping

x After all, what could be more adorable — and scrumptious — than cake on lollipop sticks? Recipe ROBIN CHATTERJEE, Proprietor, Yogurtbay Photographs RITAM BANERJEE

SWEET TALKERS Incredibly easy to make, these petite creations are a cross between a mini cake and a lollipop. The chocolate shell frosting gives way to moist, crumbly goodness as you bite in. Impart finishing touches by decorating them with sprinkles, chocolate chips, fondant, flavoured icing or candy. We’re eyeing the dark chocolate cake pops from Kishi Arora’s Foodaholics in Delhi, along with Mumbai-based Not Just Desserts’ unusual peanut butter cake pops. They make for the cutest little treats at picnics, baby showers or birthday parties. What’s not to love?

first bite news, trends, shopping

pop stars Want to indulge, yet practice portion control? These bite-sized cakelets are perfect! Cake pops Makes 30 Q50 minutes + baking + cooling QEASY brown sugar 165g (try Mawana available at gourmet stores) unsalted butter 225g eggs 2 self-raising flour 150g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) cocoa powder 30g dark cooking chocolate 200g, chopped (try Morde available at gourmet stores) dark compound chocolate 375g, chopped, for melting (try Callebaut available at gourmet stores) vegetable oil 1 1/2 tsp white compound chocolate 120g, chopped, for melting (try Callebaut available at gourmet stores) chocolate chips and chocolate sprinkles to decorate bamboo skewers 30 small Styrofoam block 1

QPreheat the oven to 180°C. Grease and line the base and sides of a 20cm round cake tin with butter paper. Line a large oven tray with butter paper too. QUsing an electric mixer beat the sugar and 125g butter in a bowl until pale and creamy. Slowly add the eggs, beating well between each addition. Sift the flour and cocoa powder over the butter mixture, and stir to combine. Spoon into the prepared pan and smoothen the surface. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Turn onto a wire rack to cool completely. QMeanwhile, combine 200g dark cooking chocolate and the remaining butter in a medium bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let the water touch the base of the bowl). Stir the mixture occasionally with a metal spoon, for 5 minutes or until smooth and glossy. Remove from heat, and set aside for 30 minutes, or until slightly thickened and cooled. QBreak the cake into pieces and place them into the bowl of a food processor. Process until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Place in a large bowl and add the chocolate mixture. Stir until well combined. QRoll tablespoons of the cake mixture into balls and place on the lined tray. Refrigerate for 3 hours or until firm. QPlace the other 375g dark compound chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir with a spoon so that it melts. Add vegetable oil and stir to combine. QDip the end of one skewer in the chocolate then insert into a ball. Return to the tray. Repeat with the remaining balls, and rest for 5 minutes or until set. QDip a cake ball into melted chocolate, turning to coat, and tap gently on

TIPS QThe cake pops should ideally be dipped in compound chocolate rather than pure chocolate, since the former doesn’t need tempering and will not melt at room temperature. QIf you are pressed for time, you can use Pillsbury’s Funfetti Cake Pop Mix, available on zansaar.com. (Sprinkles and other decorating material is available at Arife Stores in Mumbai, or on websites like gourmetco.in and bakersmart.co.in)

the side of the bowl to remove excess. Insert the skewer in the Styrofoam to set. Repeat with remaining balls and chocolate. Set aside for 30 minutes to set. QTo make pops with a white chocolate coating, place the white compound chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir with a spoon so that it melts. Remove from heat and set aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly. QSpoon a little melted chocolate over the top of each cake pop. Top with some white chocolate. Decorate with chocolate chips and chocolate sprinkles. Return to Styrofoam to set completely.

need to know news, trends, shopping

CUPBOARD LOVE MAYONNAISE

THE JURY’S OUT Garlic THE CASE FOR Garlic is my go-to ingredient when I want to jazz up a savoury dish. Once you get past the smell (I actually love it), the flavour garlic adds to a dish is heavenly. Better still, this smelly bulb is endlessly versatile. Toss up a flavour-packed aglio olio or a delish garlic raita — garlic sexes up almost anything instantly. Even a humble dal tastes sublime with a tadka of crisp browned garlic and chillies. Flavour apart, this smelly bulb has some stellar health benefits. Like its antioxidant properties which are legendary. Okay, so it’s tedious to peel and chop, but the effort is so totally worth it. Let garlic-haters carp. I can’t imagine food (or life) without this wonder ingredient! -PRIYANKA HOSANGADI

How to use up… THE CASE AGAINST I owe my garlic aversion to its complete lack of subtlety. Throw in a few cloves of garlic in a pesto and it ends up taking centre-stage, overwhelming the otherwise delicate and nutty flavours of the pasta sauce. But pungency is far from my only grouse against the bulb. Chop a few cloves and your hands reek of its strong stench. Garlic might be touted as a powerhouse of antioxidants and a remedy for several ailments, but I can’t comprehend how anyone can get over its offensive odour. Even the strongest mint or the proverbial saunff served after a meal at an Indian restaurant cannot remedy foul-smelling, garlic-infused breath. Yuck! -KHORSHED DEBOO

7Baby potato and sundried tomato salad Cook 500g baby potatoes in boiling, salted water until tender. Drain and cool under cold running water. Remove the skins and keep aside. In a bowl, mix 4 tbsp hung curd, 4 tbsp mayonnaise and 1 tbsp olive oil with a pinch of sugarr and seasoning. Stir in 8-10 sundried tomatoes, 1 tsp chopped parsley y and 2 chopped spring onions. Add the potatoes and coat in the creamy dressing. Serve. 7Egg, mayo and watercress wraps Hard-boil 3 eggs for 10 minutes, then drain and cool under cold water. Peel, roughly chop and put in a bowl. Roughly chop a handful of watercress, and stir it into the eggs with some salt, pepperr and 4 tbsp mayonnaise. Divide the filling between 2 bread rolls. 7Bay scented prawns with basil mayonnaise Soak 4 wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes. For the basil mayonnaise, place 30g basil leaves into a pan of boiling water for 1 minute, then remove and put into a bowl of cold water. Drain and squeeze out excess water from the leaves and put into a food processor with 2 tbsp olive oil. Whizz for 1-2 minutes until you have a fine paste. Add 125g mayonnaise and a squeeze of lime juice. Blend until smooth, transfer to a bowl and chill. Thread 4 prawns and 3 bay leaves onto each skewer. Brush all over with more oil. Season well. Barbecue for 4-5 minutes, turning once until tender. Serve warm with the basil mayo. 7Try American Garden available at gourmet stores like Foodhall, ` 175 for 237g.

SUPERMARKET SWEEP Pop into the supermarket for a speedy weeknight meal

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Spiced prawn and mango noodles Serves 2 Q40 minutes Q EASY

TOTAL CO ST

` 305

Cook 100g Blue Dragon fine egg noodles (` (` 135/250g) according to pack instructions and drain. Stir-fry prawns (` (` 80/250g) with Blue Dragon’s chilli coconut shot (` (` 140/115g). Add 1 tsp of finely chopped coriander (` (` 5/bunch). Peel and slice 1 mango (` (` 150 /6 mangoes). Toss everything together, garnish with chopped coriander and serve. JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 15

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS

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need to know news, trends, shopping

10-MINUTE PUDDINGS Get your sugar fix in double-quick time with these sweet recipe ideas 7 Iced berry Eton mess Whizz a pack of frozen berries in a blender with a splash of orange juice. Swirl whipped cream with crushed meringues and pile into glasses. 7Lemon and ginger layers Mix Greek yoghurt with lemon zest and a squeeze of lime juice, then swirl in some lemon curd. Crush ginger biscuits to crumbs then layer up the biscuits and lemon yoghurt in pretty glasses. 7Hot fudge brownies Put 50g butter, 50g unrefined brown sugar and 75ml double cream in a pan. Heat until the sugar dissolves, then boil for 4-5 minutes until thick. Warm 4 brownies in the microwave. Top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and the fudge sauce. 7Almond affagato Scoop vanilla ice cream into a bowl. Top with a shot each of Amaretto and espresso and sprinkle over flaked toasted almonds. 7Pain perdu with cinnamon sugar Dip sliced brioche bread in beaten egg then fry in butter. Sprinkle with a mix of golden caster sugar and cinnamon.

CLASSIC

CASUAL

Get your first taste of the hottest new restaurants on the block

COSY

TABLE HOPPING

THREE WINDOWS, DELHI

THE WHITE OWL, MUMBAI

SATTVAM, BENGALURU

Housed within the alternative art space, Khoj Studio, the interiors of this chic bistro are swathed in stark white, creating an illusion of space. With just two tables and a bench, the menu includes both wholesome dishes as well as comfort food — from a refreshing gazpacho and falafel burgers to the classic BLT and Victoria sponge cake, with a few salads and quiches thrown in as well. Free Wi-Fi lures freelancers and gallery hoppers from the precinct, who flock especially for the special weekend brunch. Khoj Studio, Khirkee, Malviya Nagar; Tel: +91 11 65655873

The humungous ceiling ornaments, dim lighting and exposed brick walls at this bar give it a grungy yet slick appeal. Slightly dingy, this is the kind of place you would seek refuge at after work. The list of heady ‘Owltails’, a spin on cocktails, includes the Biddy (a potent concoction of whiskey, triple sec, orange chunks and egg white) and the Socialista (vodka, fresh pomegranate and mint juice). With a microbrewery in the offing, we’re hoping this sprawling space doubles as an upcoming gig venue soon. One Indiabulls Center, Tower 2B; Tel: +91 22 24210231

This elegantly designed split-level vegetarian eatery dishes out Sattvic fare (sans onion, garlic, ginger and caffeine), but highlights uncommon ingredients in novel ways. The inherent philosophy is to serve freshly prepared food that promotes good health. Favourites include the aromatic Broccoli Apple Shorba, Singhada Pepper Fry, Kamrakh (star fruit) curry and Fruit Sondesh Brûlee. Besides the extensive à la carte menu, the restaurant is gradually gaining popularity for its buffet spread, with more than 75 dishes on offer. 35, Sankey Road, Sadashivnagar; Tel: +91 80 23608000

16 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

need to know news, trends, shopping

FRESH ON THE SHELVES

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

What’s new in supermarkets this month?

Vinedo Italian spritz

` 45 for 200g Kale is the newest leafy entrant in the Indian supermarket. From the cabbage family, kale leaves are a dull green in colour and have smooth or crinkly leaves. We love the herbaceous intensity raw kale lends to salads but its mellowed bitterness in stir-fries is just as delicious. Rich in vitamins C and K, kale is also packed with nutrition. Try kale chips and you’ll never look at a leafy green the same way again!

Fill a large wine glass with ice cubes and add 50ml sangiovese red wine, 25ml Campari, a dash of orange juice and 25ml sparkling wine. Stir and garnish with a slice of orange.

Recipe courtesy bargalante.com Photograph LARA HOLMES

KALE FROM TRIKAYA AGRO

Serves 1 Q5 minutes QEASY

SOULFULL RAGI CEREALS ` 190 for 300g Like pellet-sized Chocos sans the sugar, Soulfull’s ragi cereal is a guaranteed guilt-free way to start the day. Although the cereal we try is cocoaflavoured, it has only the barest hint of sugar. The glutenfree pellets are addictively crunchy, which makes them perfect for midday snacking. Add some milk and chopped fruit to make a complete breakfast.

CANTINA MEXICANA GUACAMOLE MIX ` 95 for 25g We are expecting to open this packet, add some water and have a readymade guacamole. Instead, the instructions tell us to chop up two avocadoes and a tomato, with the mix only providing additional flavouring. Considering that the appeal of guacamole lies in the buttery avocado, we think this mix defeats the purpose. The dried vegetables and herbs simply add a strange savouriness. We say skip this shortcut and go for the real deal.

JULY 2013

LUST HAVE Royce’ Chocolates When you open a box of Royce’ Chocolates and see the perfect squares of dark chocolate dusted with chocolate powder inside. you realise why this Japanese brand has acquired such a global cult following. Luckily for us, the first retail outlet of the brand, located at the Palladium mall in Mumbai, is set to open in early July. Goodies on offer will include Nama chocolate, innovative Potatochip chocolate or potato chips coated with chocolate, straightforward chocolate bars and salty popcorn coated with chocolate. However, all this TLC comes at a price. Prices at the Indian store will start at ` 494 for a chocolate bar, going up to ` 1,665 for a box of assorted Amande or roasted almonds coated in chocolate.

BBC GoodFood 17

need to know pantry basics

ON TEST Frozen chicken nuggets Nothing says comfort snack like chicken nuggets. We put five brands to our taste test to see which one truly satisfies Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs SHREYA GUPTA VENKY S ` 75/ 200g Venky’s nuggets are a pleasing golden brown n with a juicy and sparingly flavoured chicken filling. The thin layer of breadcrumbs adds texture without being overwhelming. Thanks to their mild taste, these nuggets are ideal to pair with innovative dips or even toss in a stir-fry. AL KABEER ` 70/150g With the longest recommended cooking time of four to six minutes, this brand of nuggets comes in assorted shapes. Like all of Al Kabeer’s other frozen meat products, this one too has halal chicken and comes laden with additional spices. The raw nugget is bright orangebrown in colour, but thankfully this does not translate into a heavily spiced and Indianised nugget. The overpowering crumb crust leaves a distasteful synthetic aftertaste, a pity given the juicy inside with its unadulterated chicken flavour.

LOVES

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GODREJ YUMMIEZ ` 140/ 300g Godrej’s Dinoz brand owes its name to the nuggets that vaguely resemble dinosaurs. Stick to the instructions at tthe back and there’s no way you can falter. We try both the deep-fried and pan-fried options. Both the nuggets co ome out perfectly crisp on the outside and succulent on th he inside, sans excess oil. We prefer the pan-fried ones as they’re healthier without compromising on taste or texture. th

ZORABIAN ` 120/ 250g While the packaging claims the nuggets are a healthy alternative, the only listed cooking method is deepfrying. Since our baking attempts are a failure, we assume they mean the nuggets are pre-baked. But we are pleased to report that the gnocchi-shaped fried nugget has a lovely outer texture from the baked breadcrumbs and the chicken is flavoured with dried oregano. This is the only brand that recommends thawing the nugget before cooking.

SUMERU ` 65/ 200g Sumeru’s reasonably priced nuggets have a distinctly Indian taste with spices such as turmeric, coriander and pepper. Fried to a perfect crisp within two minutes, we like their onion and garlicheavy flavour. However, the nugget oddly has as much minced chicken as onion. Unlike Yummiez, this brand only recommends deep frying. But the spices cause the fried nuggets to brown much faster than the others.

Potato mashers FOO OD MILL ` 650 This one might look unconventional but we effortlessly mash h a pot full of potatoes without the slightest pa ain. The me m chanissm, involving blades off varying sha arpness, is quite complex, but it consissts of a vertical LOVES plate that stops food from moving aro ound to make mashing easier. The only manual labour required is to rotate the lever in a clockwise direction and spoon through the grated potatoes to achieve a fine mash.

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NYLON MASHER ` 50 This heat resistant potato masher is a great addition to any kitchen. The nylon body of the masher is safe for all non-stick finishes so you can mash the potatoes directly in the pan you intend to heat the mash in. The up-curved edges leading to the handle of the masher aid in efficiency but the metal handle with sharp edges may leave your hands sore.

METAL MASHER ` 45 This durable, old school steel masher does the job of smashing potatoes to a smooth paste rather efficiently. The only downside is the handle, which can get uncomfortable when mashing a large batch of potatoes. The oversized base is designed to fit into large pans and works with large volumes, while the masher’s holed design at the base provides leverage and efficiency.

JULY 2013

need to know news, trends, shopping

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BARGAINHUNTER Good Food d tracks down this month’s top foodie events, meals and deals

All prices PER HEAD excluding taxes and travel

Words KHORSHED DEBOO

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` 239-A-HEAD DINNER PARTY FOR FOUR!

7 Pumpkin salad with soy balsamic dressing (p 71) ` 246 7 Chicken with coconut and cashews (p 62) ` 327 7 Cherry pie and vanilla cream (p 110) ` 383 Total ` 956 (`` 239 per head)

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` 995 POWER LUNCH AT EKAYANA, MUMBAI

Office goers deserve a break from humdrum dabbass and insipid canteen food. This is exactly why Ekayana’s power lunch fits the bill perfectly — it’s worth every rupee. Housed within the luxurious Shangri-La, smack in the middle of the bustling office district of Lower Parel, Ekayana’s lunch spans across North Indian and Lebanese fare. The four-course lunch includes a choice between two appetisers or the chef’s special soup, followed by a choice of main course dishes such as Lebanese Pizza, Mutton Kolhapuri or Paneer Rasmissa. We suggest you pick the Masala Chai Crème Brûlee for dessert and finish off with a beverage. With a meal so comforting, the ‘power lunch’ tag is a tad baffling to us. But such deals are hard to come by. We certainly aren’t complaining! Tel: +022 61628000; Weekdays, 12 noon – 3 pm JULY 2013

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CITIBANK CHEF’S TABLE WEEK, DELHI

After a super successful outing in March, Citibank Chef’s Table Week in association with BBC Good Food d is back in Delhi with a remarkable lineup. Participating restaurants include Dakshin at the Sheraton, Indian Accent, Sakura, La Riviera, Konomi and Travertino. Citibank Premier Miles and Ultima card customers can take advantage of a customised six-course tasting menu at each of the restaurants, attractively priced at ` 2,500. However, the absence of a set menu is what impresses us. Each chef will dish out what suits his fancy, taking you by surprise. The icing on the cake — one gets a chance to interact with the chef behind this stellar menu. We suggest you book pronto in order to avoid disappointment. From 1st to 7th July 2013. Visit chefstableweek.com to make reservations.

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` 599 THREE COURSE PRIX FIXE LUNCH AT OLIVE BEACH, BENGALURU

Loyalists enchanted by Olive Beach, the city’s most adored fine dining space, now have more reason to cheer. Conceptualised by Executive Chef Manu Chandra, the three-course Mediterranean prix fixe lunch at a fraction of the cost, undoubtedly merits a try. The set lunch at this charming restaurant comprises a starter, a main and dessert, with a plethora of options to choose from. Starters include the popular Baked Brie stuffed with caramelised onions, Horiatiki, and a rich Wild Mushroom Tart made with fresh puff pastry, herbed goat’s cheese and wild mushroom ragout. Mains comprise Mustard-crusted Reef Cod, Stuffed Chicken, and Beetroot and Goat’s Cheese Risotto. Ending the meal with the Banana Toffee Cake or Yoghurt Panna Cotta will keep you satisfied until dinner. Spare an afternoon to unwind, you’ll thank us. Tel: +080 41128400; Monday to Saturday, 12 noon – 3.30 pm BBC GoodFood 19

investigates

Palm oil

Joanna Blythman finds out where this mystery ingredient is coming from, how we’re consuming so much more of it than we realise and what the consequences are

W

hen you’re making up your shopping list, it’s a safe bet that palm oil doesn’t appear on it. In fact, you may not even be aware that you are eating it, or using it in your home.Yet this obscure, tropical ingredient turns up in one in every10 processed foods. It’s in everything from crisps, instant soup, biscuits and chips to ice cream, margarine and chocolate, as well as being a common ingredient in fast food. Some of the most beloved foods in the world contain palm oil – including Nutella spreads, which contain nearly 20 per cent of this saturated fat and even breakfast cereals. Palm oil is a slippery customer because it is rarely listed as an ingredient on food labels, more often being subsumed under the anonymous heading of vegetable oil or vegetable fat. Most of us also use it unknowingly in products such as detergent, soaps, toothpaste, eyeliner, lipstick, shampoo, and even as fuel. We need to know more about this mystery ingredient because when we eat or use palm oil for cooking, we could indirectly be aiding the destruction of tropical forests, the extinction of endangered animals and human rights abuses.

PALM TREES VS FORESTS Palm oil is an ancient oil derived from the eponymous tree. Where once it was grown in a traditional way to 20 BBC GoodFood

provide a source of food and income for small growers, in recent years, its production has expanded. Nowadays, it is cultivated on vast plantations owned by large companies. The problem is that whole swathes of virgin forest in Malaysia and Indonesia have been cleared or burnt down to make way for palm oil production. This peaty forest is one of the most concentrated stores of carbon on the planet; clearing the forest on top, draining the peat and burning it releases vast amounts of greenhouse gases. Land clearance for palm oil plantations has seen indigenous people and small growers displaced from their

urgent intervention, the palm oil trade will make the species extinct within a decade. The Sumatran tiger is also threatened.

RISING DEMAND Despite all the issues surrounding palm oil, demand for it continues to soar. It is the cheapest oil available to food manufacturers, which makes it very attractive. In recent years, Indian imports of both crude palm oil and the refined kind, which is used for cooking, have soared. In fact, along with China and the EU, India is one of the largest importers of palm oil in the world. While India imported 7.67 million

‘‘We need to know more about this mystery ingredient because when we eat or use palm oil, we could indirectly be aiding the destruction of tropical forests, the extinction of endangered animals and human rights abuses’’ land and according to environmental groups, suffer human rights abuses as a result. Rare wildlife has also paid a price for palm oil expansion. The only orangutans now left in the world live in Borneo and Sumatra where the lowland forests that sustain them are being rapidly destroyed as Malaysia and Indonesia vie to become the world’s biggest supplier of palm oil. Wildlife groups warn that without

tonnes of palm oil in 2011-12, that figure is expected to jump by as much as 17 per cent in 2013, to a projected 9 million tonnes, according to a Reuters report. Now that health campaigners have largely succeeded in getting companies to remove artery-clogging trans fats from their foods, palm oil is more in demand than ever as a cheap replacement for chemically hardened JULY 2013

Photograph NUI7711/123RF

need to know food issues

need to know food issues

GREENING UP PALM OIL In 2004 the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), a non-profit organisation that represents all the stakeholders involved in the palm oil business, was created in Zurich, aiming to encourage producers to grow more responsibly, while retailers and manufacturers undertake to buy palm oil that comes from sustainable sources. Aware of their inability to say where their palm oil came from, many supermarkets and food manufacturers signed up to the scheme. It aims to promote and certify palm oil that is grown in a responsible way. For instance, rainforests cannot be cut down, there can be no carbon-releasing burning, the palms must be managed using natural fertilisers rather than pesticides and harvested using buffalo instead of heavy equipment that would damage the soil.

MAKING PROGRESS This initiative, in tandem with campaigning by environmentalists, has had some success. By 2006, the Indonesian government abandoned its plans to create a palm oil fence running the length of the Malaysia-Indonesia border in Borneo. This mega-plantation 22 BBC GoodFood

– which would have been equivalent to one and a half times the size of Wales (making it the world’s biggest and most destructive agricultural project) – would have sounded the death knell for the remaining orangutans on the island. Currently, several leading supermarkets in Britain have made very public commitments to use only sustainably sourced palm oil in the near future. They are moving over to using only RSPO-certified oil that comes with ‘green palm’ certificates. However, in India, there is still very little awareness about the environmental tradeoff involved in producing cheap palm oil for consumption and cooking. NGOs such as World Wildlife Fund India have been campaigning to increase consumer and corporate awareness about palm oil. A few companies have sat up and taken notice. For instance, toeing the line of its parent company Unilever – a long-time member of the RSPO – Hindustan Unilever is one of the first Indian companies to commit to procuring certified sustainable palm oil. However, environmental groups say that despite the RSPO’s interventions, the problems associated with palm oil are still far from resolved. They claim that even apparently sustainable oil may not be what it seems. Greenpeace palm oil campaigner Ian Duff says that powerful palm oil-growing companies have pressurised the roundtable to set standards that are too weak and not properly enforced. Besides, food labelling regulations don’t stipulate that palm oil be labelled separately. If this was done, it could no longer be included anonymously under the generic vegetable oil and fat labels, and people would know they were eating it. Five years ago, very few people knew about the controversy surrounding palm oil. Now, it is on our radar. But it may be some time yet, it seems, before the world’s last remaining orangutans can snooze blissfully under the forest canopy without being disturbed by the approaching hum of a chainsaw.

HOW TO MAKE PALM OIL MORE SUSTAINABLE Q Avoid products that list vegetable oil, margarine or fat of unspecified origin as an ingredient. Opt instead for those that use butter, or one specific oil such as olive, sunflower, corn or peanut oil. Q If you do buy food containing vegetable oil, look at the nutrition label to see whether or not it contains saturated fat. If anything more than minimal amounts of saturated fat are listed, there is a high chance that you are buying palm oil. Q Stop buying non-food products containing palm oil. Look at the label — palm oil has to be listed, but it appears under its botanical name, elaeis guineensis. Q Check out the World Wildlife Fund’s scorecard that rates supermarkets and manufacturers according to how progressive they are on using palm oil from sustainable sources. Visit tinyurl.com/ykjvpg QIn India, companies that have committed to buying eco-friendly or ‘green’ palm oil from the RSPO include Godrej Industries, Adani Wilmar and Ruchi Soya, among others.

JULY 2013

Photograph ©CHARLES KREBS/CORBIS

hydrogenated fats such as dalda. Unlike other vegetable oils, palm oil is solid at room temperature, making it perfect for use in the food industry as it allows products to have a longer shelf-life. Being cheap and easy to grow, palm oil also makes a perfect crop for biofuels. This means that the hunt for less environmentally destructive alternatives to petrol and diesel is pushing further palm oil expansion. Palm oil is increasingly stepping in to compensate for fast depleting fossil fuels. In 2010, the European Union set the goal that requires that 10 per cent of all transportation fuel should come from sustainable or renewable sources by 2020. As a result, palm oil is being used to make petrol and diesel in the UK and elsewhere. Now more than ever before, palm oil is playing a bigger and bigger role in our lives.

need to know books

books & cooks The lowdown on this month’s top foodie reads Words KHORSHED DEBOO

The Married Man’s Guide to Creative Cooking by Samar Halarnkar With its raw, unassuming appeal, engaging trivia and a sprinkling of humour, this cookbook isn’t just useful for men but for any firsttimer in the kitchen. The author narrates how he validates his cooking by getting his six-monthold daughter to try it and also shares his surprisingly successful attempts at pleasing his vegetarian wife. The Goan Fish Curry we tried was ready in eight minutes, just as the author promised. The recipe for Srinagar garam masala seems particularly interesting. However, the book is more an essay on Halarnkar’s personal cooking journey than a married man’s goto guide to the ABCs of cooking. Available from Westland for ` 495

The Hummingbird Bakery – Home Sweet Home by Tarek Malouf If we had to summarise this book in a word, we’d say comforting. With beautiful photographs that trigger hunger pangs and inspiration to bake on a damp, rainy afternoon, this well-curated collection of classic treats from the author’s London-based Hummingbird Bakery is apt for home bakers. While the Peach Cobbler we tried was a tad too sugary for our liking, the Flourless Chocolate Cake, a basic recipe involving no more than five ingredients, turned out so gratifyingly delicious that we almost had a slice for every meal. The cookies and tray bakes are next on our baking list. Available from Harper Collins for ` 999

300 Calories or Less As the title suggests, each dish in this compilation contains 300 or less calories per serving. This collection of 50 ‘healthy yet delicious’ recipes covers breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and dessert. The introductory pages are a bit preachy and they ideally belong in a health magazine. We don’t like the fact that almost all the recipes call for vegetable oil spray since not many home cooks prefer it as a cooking medium. The book is accompanied by a daily food tracker in booklet form but we’re a bit unsure why anyone would religiously jot down their food intake and work out the math when several apps can perform the same task in a jiffy. Available from Parragon Books for ` 395

Try this recipe!

Coconut macaroons Makes 30 Q1 hour QEASY

Recipe courtesy THE HUMMINGBIRD BAKERY – HOME SWEET HOME Photograph KATE WHITAKER

JULY 2013

Preheat the oven to 160°C and line three baking trays with parchment. Mix together 370ml condensed milk, 370g desiccated coconut and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Whisk 2 egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Fold the egg whites into the coconut mixture. Spoon the mixture onto the trays – roughly 1 tablespoon per cookie. Keep them about 1 1/2 inches apart. Bake for 20-30 minutes or until golden brown. Cool completely before serving.

Cocktails for a Crowd by Kara Newman This one is handy for those who host house parties regularly but find themselves trapped behind the bar. An entire chapter devoted to speedy techniques to stir up concoctions, a list of nifty equipment and unusual garnishes, along with a practical guide to measuring liquids, lends credibility to the recipes that follow. The tiny volume of 40-odd versatile recipes is good enough for a leisurely drink by yourself or a lavish get-together. Available from Chronicle Books for ` 1,088 Yes, Chef – A Memoir by Marcus Samuelsson with Veronica Chambers This memoir-style book chronicles popular chef Marcus Samuelsson’s life story from his grandmother’s kitchen to his arrival as a chef in New York. An orphan from Ethiopia who was adopted by Swedish parents in NYC, he reminisces about his childhood, lending a whiff of nostalgia to the narrative. This account of a modest celebrity chef is a quick read and is accompanied by sepia-tinted photographs right from his childhood to his days as guest chef at the White House. Available from Random House for ` 918 You can buy this month’s books online at flipkart.com and landmarkonthenet.com.

BBC GoodFood 23

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Host like a pro Good Food India’s live masterclass with Chef Nimish Bhatia of The Lalit showcased lip-smacking party dishes that are simple yet impressive Words PRIYANKA HOSANGADI Photographs INDIA EVENTS

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t was a Saturday well spent for over 40 food lovers who got a chance to meet renowned chef Nimish Bhatia at Good Food India’s live masterclass at The Lalit in New Delhi. The event was held in May at Baluchi restaurant in association with Nestle Milkmaid, Shakti Bhog basmati rice and Goldiee spices. Chef Bhatia demonstrated six delicious dishes that the participants could easily make at home. He made the session more interactive by asking volunteers to help him prepare the dishes. Chef Bhatia began with Lettuce Wrappers, an ideal heat buster. An enthusiastic participant helped him assemble the crunchy iceberg lettuce rolls that were stuffed with cottage cheese, red, yellow and green peppers, orange segments and coriander and drizzled with a mixture of yoghurt, olive oil, honey, salt and pepper. Chef Bhatia then proceeded to help a volunteer prepare another batch of rolls, giving her suggestions on how she could improve the dish. Next he demonstrated Channe ke Kebab with Caramelised Walnuts and Coriander Root Relish. The patties were made of mashed chickpeas mixed with various spices and chopped coriander, ginger, green chillies, toasted garlic, onions and caramelised 24 BBC GoodFood

walnuts. What made the kebabs interesting were the different textures and the stuffing of hung curd and browned garlic. They were served with a relish made of garlic, coriander roots, green chillies and lemon juice. Chef Bhatia’s third recipe, Jhinge ki Chappali, which has its origins in Persia, is among the most popular dishes at Baluchi. He mixed coarsely chopped prawns with lemon juice, rock salt, ginger, garlic, coriander, green chillies, cumin seeds and various Goldiee spices including zaatar, amchoor, mace and yellow chilli powder. A little egg was added as a binding agent. The mixture was then shaped into patties and a prawn tail inserted into it. After flash grilling the kebabs on the tawa, Chef Bhatia served them with a creamy radish relish. Next followed the Trio Mushroom Ravioli with morels, button and porcini mushrooms. Chef Bhatia quipped that women would find this dish interesting since morels have anti-ageing properties. The ravioli was stuffed with a mixture of chopped mushrooms sautéed with garlic, onions, celery, leeks and cream. The cooked pasta was then tossed in chopped onions, garlic and olive oil. What set this dish apart was the hot mango

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1. Chef Nimish Bhatia introduces the session 2. A volunteer helps Chef Bhatia make Channe ke Kebab 3. Participants note down recipes 4. Channe ke Kebab with Caramelised Walnuts and Coriander Root Relish 5. Participants taste the Channe ke Kebab 6. Participants listen attentively 7. A participant cooks Jhinge ki Chappali 8. Lettuce Wrappers or iceberg lettuce rolls 9. Participants try the Trio Mushroom Ravioli with hot mango relish 10. Chef Bhatia with the Worldwide Media team 11. Chef Bhatia adds rice to the Nazuk Murgh Kofte ki Biryani 12. Chef gives some tips on cooking biryani 13. Jhinge ki Chappali with creamy radish relish 14. Chicken koftas with kaala masala

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relish, which Chef Bhatia said was similar to a Mexican salsa verde, but made with ripe mangoes instead of green tomatoes. After a quick lunch break, the participants assembled to try out the Nazuk Murgh Kofte ki Biryani. Chicken koftas made with mince and kaala masala or blackened spices were cooked along with Shakti Bhog basmati rice. While preparing the dish, Chef Bhatia explained m cooking originated in how the concept of dum Lucknow. He also described the various kinds of biryani that are found throughout India. The masterclass ended on a sweet note with Aam Ras ki Rabadi aur Churi, a delicious dessert that can be made in a jiffy. Flour was kneaded with ghee, salt and sugar and then roasted to make the churi. The rabadi was made by heating mango puree and Milkmaid. This was layered with crushed churi in a glass and then chilled. This was the most popular dish that participants rushed to try! The lively event saw Chef Bhatia banter with the crowd and give them useful tips — like how to make pasta at home or why lemon juice is usually added to seafood. Several children were also spotted among the participants, p indicating how cooking iss increasingly becoming popular with tthe little ones. The event ended with participants going home with goodie p bags from Goldiee. b BBC GoodFood 25

eat in

52 pages of inspiring ideas, from jamun and shehtoot treats to hearty meatballs and classic Kayastha cooking

IN THIS ISSUE

7Seven meals for ` 700, p 58 7Quick lunchbox recipes, p 66 7Ready in 30-minute dishes, p 68 7Cooking with jamun and shehtoot, p 75 7New takes on French fries, p 84 7Comforting meatballs, p 90 7Classics from the Kayastha kitchen, p 98 7Make the most of cherries, p 106

Classic Swedish meatballs p 94 BBC GoodFood 27

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meals for `700 A week’s worth of sstylish, great-value m meals

R Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs LARA HOLMES P

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28 BBC GoodFood

MONDAY Spinach rarebit melts Serves 1 Q15 minutes Q EASY spinach 50g, chopped spring onion 1, finely chopped butter 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 1/2 tsp (try Tracklements available at gourmet stores) cheddar 50g, grated egg 1/2, beaten salt and pepperr to season crusty bread 2 slices, toasted QWilt the spinach and spring onion in butter, then take off the heat and stir in the mustard, cheddar and egg. Season well, then spoon onto the toast. Grill until bubbling and golden. Q PER SERVING 431 kcals, protein 23g, carbs 26.5g, fat 24g, sat fat 13.2g, fibre 3g, salt 2.3g

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TUESDAY Bhee pakodas

…ca … ash shew ewnu ew wnu nuts ts s

Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY

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3 `69 L FOR

TOTA * 7 MEALS

Recipe AMIT PAMNANI lotus stem (bhee) 100g, washed and peeled fresh coriander a bunch, finely chopped ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp salt to taste dried mango powder (amchoor) 1/2 tsp

garam masala 1/2 tsp chilli powderr 1 1/2 tsp besan 30g oil 50ml QWash and peel the lotus stem and cut into 1-inch pieces. Place them along with water in a pressure cooker. QBoil the lotus stem until tender, approximately 3-4 whistles. Drain and cool. Meanwhile, mix the chopped coriander with ginger-garlic paste, salt, amchoor, garam masala and 1/2 tsp chilli powder. Pound using a mortar and pestle and make into a coarse paste. QSlice the cooled lotus stem into halves, lengthwise. Apply the coriander paste to the lotus stem halves and join together like a sandwich. QCombine the besan, salt, 1 tsp chilli powder and water to make a thick batter. Coat the stuffed lotus stem pieces with the batter. Deep fry in hot oil until the batter is set. Remove from oil and cool. Flatten each lotus stem between the palms of your hands. QDeep fry the pakodas in hot oil until golden and crispy. Serve hot. Q PER SERVING 627.75 kcals, protein 7.98g, carbs 32.83g, fat 52.15g, sat fat 3.2g, fibre 7.75g, salt 0.4g *Recipe costings are based on the amounts of ingredients used, eg 125g butter is costed at half the price of a 250g pack. The store cupboard ingredients are not included in the costing; we assume that these are consumed daily and do not need to be specially purchased. JULY 2013

Styling LUIS PERAL Food styling SAL HENLEY

Ph t Photograph h DAVID MUNNS

INGREDIENTS CHECKLIST

Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA

eat in everyday

THURSDAY Chargrilled aubergine and pepperonata salad Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY Pepperonata is a Mediterranean pepper stew that can also make a base for a lovely salad.

WEDNESDAY Pea and pancetta carbonara Serves 1 Q20 minutes Q EASY linguine 75g (try Delverde available at gourmet stores) green peas 50g pancetta 35g, diced (try Can Calet available at gourmet stores) garlic clove 1, crushed egg yolk 1 crème fraîche 2 1/2 tbsp (try President available at gourmet stores) parmesan 15g, finely grated salt and black pepper to season QCook the linguine following the pack instructions, adding the peas for the

last 2 minutes of cooking. Cook the pancetta in a frying pan until golden. Add the garlic and cook for a couple of minutes. Whisk the egg and crème fraîche with most of the parmesan. QDrain the pasta and peas, keeping 2-3 tbsp of the cooking water. Tip the pasta, peas and cooking water into the pancetta pan and toss together over the heat. Take off the heat then stir through the crème fraîche mix. Season with black pepper and serve with the rest of the parmesan. Q PER SERVING 636 kcals, protein 25.1g, carbs 57.4g, fat 33.7g, sat fat 17g, fibre 4.8g, salt 1.4g MORE IDEAS: Use broad beans along with the green peas for an added dose of veggies.

aubergine 1/2, thinly sliced lengthways olive oil 1 tbsp salt and pepper to season roasted red peppers from a jar 2 pieces, roughly torn (try Jamie Oliver available at gourmet stores) capers 1 tsp, rinsed and drained (try Lindsay available at gourmet stores) red onion 1/2, finely chopped rocket a handful THE SALAD DRESSING red wine vinegar 1 tbsp whisked with 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil QBrush the aubergine slices with olive oil and season. Heat a griddle to hot, then cook the aubergines on both sides until grill marked, softened and cooked through. QMake the dressing by combining the vinegar and olive oil together. QToss the peppers, capers, onion and dressing together. Arrange the aubergine on a plate and top with the peppers. Scatter over the rocket to finish. Q PER SERVING 253 kcals, protein 4.7g, carbs 11.8g, fat 20.8g, sat fat 3g, fibre 6.7g, salt 0.3g MORE IDEAS: Add some grilled halloumi for a heartier salad.

eat in everyday

SATURDAY Courgette g and rosemary pizza Serves 1 Q30 minutes Q EASY pizza base 1 mascarpone 2 tbsp (try Zanetti available at gourmet stores) garlic clove 1/2, crushed salt and pepperr to season courgette 1, cut into long ribbons rosemary 1 tsp, chopped olive oil 2 tbsp

VEG IT Substitute aubergine for chicken to make a vegetarian curry

FRIDAY Chicken with coconut and cashews Serves 1 Q45 minutes Q EASY oil 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1/2 tsp onion 1, halved and thinly sliced salt a pinch ginger 1/2 tbsp, finely grated garlic clove 1, crushed red chilli 1, sliced ground coriander 1/2 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp chicken thigh fillets 2 skinless, quartered coconut milk 90ml cashewnuts a heaped tbsp chicken or vegetable stock 75ml basmati rice cooked, to serve 32 BBC GoodFood

QHeat the oil in a frying pan. Add the cumin seeds and cook for a few minutes until they crackle. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and fry until softened. Add the ginger, garlic, chillies and the rest of the spices and cook for a couple of minutes. Stir in the chicken and turn over in the spices and onion until white. QWhizz the coconut milk and cashews in a blender or food processor. Pour into the pan with the stock. Simmer for 15 minutes then stir in the coriander and serve with rice. Q PER SERVING 490 kcals, protein 35g, carbs 12.1g, fat 34.2g, sat fat 16.1g, fibre 3g, salt 0.8g

QHeat the oven to 200°C. Put the pizza base on a heavy baking sheet. Beat the mascarpone to soften it then beat in the garlic and lots of seasoning. Spread over the pizza base leaving a small border. Toss the courgette and rosemary in olive oil, season then arrange over the base. QBake for 10-12 minutes until golden, puffed and cooked through. Q PER SERVING 629 kcals, protein 18.9g, carbs 68.6g, fat 30.8g, sat fat 11.9g, fibre 3.9g, salt 2g MORE IDEAS: Add some shredded, cooked ham or salami for a heartier pizza.

The flavours of the recipe come together beautifully, in a very subtle and elegant way. It tastes very different from the traditional pizza but in a good way. The addition of mascarpone gives the pizza a whole new dimension and is definitely worth a try. I made a thin crust pizza with a dash of additional oregano, chilli and basil seasoning. The outcome totally justified the effort. However, I would love to beat in a bit of chilli tomato sauce into the mascarpone for a spicy twist. Maaninee Reddy y is a student from Hyderabad who is passionate about food.

JULY 2013

eat in everyday

eat in everyday

SUNDAY Harissa lamb stew with orzo Serves 1 Q1 hour 15 minutes Q EASY oil 2 tbsp, for frying boneless lamb 150g, cut into chunks onion 1/2, finely sliced harissa 1 tbsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) tomatoes 200g, chopped lamb stock 100ml chickpeas 100g orzo or rice 50g (try Barilla available at gourmet stores) mint a small bunch, chopped parsley a small bunch, chopped spring onions 2, chopped lemon 1/2, juiced and zested salt and pepper to season QHeat the oil in a pan and brown the lamb all over. Scoop out then add the onions and cook until softened and browned. Add back the lamb with the harissa, tomatoes and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook for 45 minutes with a lid on then add the chickpeas and cook for 15 minutes with lid off. QCook the orzo following the pack instructions then drain and toss with most of the herbs, spring onion, lemon and some seasoning. Serve the stew with the orzo and scatter the rest of the herbs on top. Q PER SERVING 688 kcals, protein 48.3g, carbs 58.5g, fat 27.9g, sat fat 10.2g, fibre 8.5g, salt 1g MORE IDEAS: Serve the stew with mashed sweet potato instead of the orzo.

FOR A LIST OF STORES THAT STOCK GOURMET INGREDIENTS, TURN TO P 153

eat in lunchbox

It’s lunchtime!

Give packed lunches a makeover with these snappy recipes Photograph STUART OVENDEN

Carrot and hummus rolls Serves 2 Q10 minutes QEASY Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS Spread 200g hummus between 4 tortilla wraps. Coarsely grate 4 carrots and scatter on top of the hummus, finishing each wrap with 2 handfuls of rocket leaves and some seasoning. Roll up and pack. Q PER SERVING 355 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 37g, fat 19g, sat fat 3g, fibre 6g, sugar 8g, salt 1.09g

hummus mixture into the toasted pitas, along with 1 julienned red bell pepper and 1 julienned cucumber. Q PER SERVING 295 kcals, protein 13g, carbs 64g, fat 12g, sat fat 2.8g, fibre 4g, sugar 6g, salt 2.03g

Caesar salad with crispy chicken

parmesan and 1 crushed garlic clove, then season well. When ready to eat, add 4 sliced, cooked chicken thighs, 40g croutons and 8 torn lettuce leaves. Mix well and sprinkle with extra parmesan, if you like. Q PER SERVING 368 kcals, protein 28g, carbs 21g, fat 19g, sat fat 5g, fibre 2g, sugar 5g, salt 1.9g

Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY In a large bowl, mix 80g mayonnaise, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 tbsp worcestershire sauce, 40g grated

Chicken soba noodles Serves 2 Q15 minutes QEASY Cook 170g soba noodles, drain well, then toss with 1 tbsp of sesame oil. Finely slice 15 snow peas, cut 2 carrots into matchsticks and deseed and slice 1 red chilli. Add to the noodles with 2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds and 2 handfuls of shredded and cooked chicken. Pack with a small portion of soy sauce. Q PER SERVING 373 kcals, protein 16g, carbs 29g, fat 14.9g, sat fat 4g, fibre 3.4g, sugar 9g, salt 2g

Minted hummus pockets Serves 2 Q5 minutes QEASY

Pour 240g hummus into a small bowl. Finely slice a few basil leaves, then stir into the hummus. Toast 4 pita breads, then split them in half. Stuff the

Carrot and hummus rolls

Styling JO HARRIS Food styling KATE CALDER

Recipe JANE HORNBY

Ready in 30 Hearty and satisfying, these speedy meals are ideal for weeknights

Lemon and dill sea bass with ciabatta, tomato and olive salad Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

dill a handful, roughly chopped lemon 1, zested and juiced olive oil 2 tbsp salt and pepper to season sea bass 2 fillets, skin on ciabatta 2 thick slices tomatoes 2 large, sliced black olives a handful, pitted and halved (try Fragata available at gourmet stores) basil a handful

chop into bite-size pieces. Toss with the tomato, olives and basil. Divide the salad between 2 plates. QHeat another tbsp of oil in a nonstick frying pan over a high heat. Wipe the marinade off the fish and then add to the pan, skin side down. Cook for 3 minutes or until the skin crisps up. Turn the heat down a little and flip the fish over for another minute of cooking or until cooked through. Put a fillet on each plate and pour the remaining dressing over the fish and the salad and serve. QPER SERVING 387 kcals, protein 27.8g, carbs 25.3g, fat 19.4g, sat fat 2.3g, fibre 4.8g, salt 1.2g

Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph LARA HOLMES

QMix the dill, lemon zest and juice, 1 tbsp of oil and some seasoning in a small bowl. Pour half over the fish and leave to marinate for 10 minutes. QToast the ciabatta, then roughly

Recipe KATE CALDER Photograph LARA HOLMES

eat in everyday

Hot and sour aubergine with sticky rice (recipe overleaf) BBC GoodFood 37

Hot and sour aubergine with sticky rice Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

sushi rice 150g (try Blue Dragon available at gourmet stores) onion 1, halved and sliced aubergine 1, chopped into bite-sized pieces vegetable oil 1 tbsp golden caster sugar 2 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) red wine vinegar 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp + extra to serve cornflour 2 tsp French beans 100g, halved red chilli 1, shredded + extra to serve QCook the rice following packet instructions. Fry the onion and aubergine in the oil in a wide shallow pan with a lid on until golden and softened. Stir every few minutes. QMix the sugar and vinegar in a small bowl. Add the soy sauce and stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the cornflour and stir until it has dissolved. QAdd the beans and red chilli to the pan and cook for 4 minutes with the lid on. Add the sweet and sour mix, stir and continue cooking for a further 2 minutes with the lid on. Serve with the rice and extra soy and chillies on the side. QPER SERVING 515 kcals, protein 10.8g, carbs 92.6g, fat 8.3g, sat fat 1g, fibre 10g, salt 1g

Smoked salmon and asparagus fettuccine fettuccine 200g (try Barilla available at gourmet stores) asparagus 100g, halved olive oil 2 tbsp garlic clove 1, sliced crème fraîche or hung curd 6 tbsp (try President available at gourmet stores) lemon 1, zested + a squeeze of juice salt and pepper to taste smoked salmon 160g, broken into rough pieces 38 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

Photograph LARA HOLMES

Serves 2 Q20 minutes QEASY

eat in everyday QCook the pasta following packet instructions. Add the asparagus 3 minutes before the end of the pasta cooking time. QHeat the oil in a wide, shallow nonstick pan and gently fry the garlic until softened. QDrain the pasta and asparagus and tip into the garlic pan with the crème fraîche, lemon zest and lots of seasoning. Toss everything together then add the salmon and toss gently. Serve with a squeeze of lemon juice. QPER SERVING 513 kcals, protein 34.9g, carbs 55.4g, fat 16.8g, sat fat 7g, fibre 1.2g, salt 3.6g

Pumpkin salad with soy balsamic dressing Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph SIMON WHEELER Styling PENNY MARKHAM Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

pumpkin 1kg, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes olive oil 1 tbsp salt and pepper to season puy lentils (masoor dal) 100g arugula leaves 100g sesame seeds 1 tsp, toasted spring onions 6, sliced THE SOY DRESSING olive oil 5 tbsp balsamic vinegar 3 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp red chilli 1, seeded and chopped garlic clove 1, finely chopped honey 1 tsp QHeat the oven to 200°C. Put the pumpkin on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil and season. Roast for 20 minutes or until tender, shaking the tray a couple of times to keep it from sticking. Simmer the lentils for about 15 minutes or until al dente, then drain. Whisk together the dressing ingredients. Put the arugula leaves in a serving bowl and arrange the lentils and pumpkin on top. Pour the dressing over and top with sesame seeds and spring onions. QPER SERVING 342 kcals, protein 10.3g, carbs 37.1g, fat 17.9g, sat fat 2.4g, fibre 7g, salt 0.72g MAY 2013

BBC GoodFood 39

Chargrilled g lamb with lentils, broad beans and feta Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

lamb chops 4 large olive oil 2 tbsp + extra for greasing salt and pepperr to season puy lentils (masoor dal) 100g broad beans (papdi) orr edamame beans 100g shallots 4, thinly sliced mint a handful, chopped parsley a handful, chopped feta 50g, crumbled (try Apetina available at gourmet stores) red wine vinegar 2 tbsp

Apple pp and g goat’s cheese salad with warm fig dressing Serves 4 Q25 minutes QEASY

mixed salad leaves (arugula, chicory, iceberg lettuce, lollo rosso) 500g apple 1 goat’s cheese 100g, sliced walnuts 50g, toasted and chopped THE FIG DRESSING dried figs 4 balsamic vinegar 75ml extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp salt and pepperr to season 40 BBC GoodFood

QTo make the dressing, simmer the figs in boiling water in a small saucepan for 10 minutes. Drain, chop and put back in the saucepan with the balsamic vinegar, olive oil and seasoning. Cook for a further 5 minutes until syrupy and then cool slightly. QArrange all the leaves on individual plates or one big platter. Thinly slice the apple without coring. Layer a few slices of apple with the goat’s cheese on each salad. Sprinkle with the walnuts and pour the dressing over. QPER SERVING 298 kcals, protein 9g, carbs 18.6g, fat 21.3g, sat fat 6.3g, fibre 3.3g, salt 0.5g

A surprising Sunday dinner became an instant hit and a family favourite. Since fresh broad beans were not in season, I substituted them with peas. The sweetness of the lentils and the creaminess of the feta cheese made for a lovely combination and enhanced the simplicity of the lamb. The dish was uncomplicated and ready in 30 minutes. It’s a sensational dish that rescues you when you have unexpected guests. Sharmishtha Dey Yadav v is a homemaker and food blogger who enjoys playing around with traditional ingredients and recipes. She lives in Thane.

JULY 2013

Recipe JENNIFER JOYCE Photograph SIMON WHEELER Styling PENNY MARKHAM Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

QHeat a griddle or pan to smoking hot. Rub the lamb chops with oil and then season. Griddle for 10 minutes on each side or until cooked to your liking. Meanwhile, cook the lentils. Q Put the broad beans in a sieve in the sink and pour over a full kettle of boiling water. Let them cool and then pod, discarding the skins. Boil for about 2 minutes and then drain. QMix the lentils and broad beans with the shallot, mint, parsley, feta, 2 tbsp of oil, the red wine vinegar and some seasoning. Serve with the lamb. QPER SERVING 805 kcals, protein 43.6g, carbs 27.3g, fat 57.5g, sat fat 25.6g, fibre 10.4g, salt 2g

eat in everyday

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Quick tomato soup with cheesy garlic dippers Serves 2 Q25 minutes QEASY

THE DIPPERS ciabatta roll 1 medium, halved garlic clove 1, halved salt and pepper to season mozzarella 125g, shredded

Warm Mexican rice salad with kidney beans and avocado salsa Serves 2 Q30 minutes QEASY

basmati rice 75g garlic cloves 2, chopped chipotle paste or harissa 1 tbsp (try La Costena available at gourmet stores) kidney beans (rajma) 400g, boiled and drained vinegar 2 tbsp honey 1 tbsp salt and pepper to season avocado 1 small, diced red onion 1/2, sliced jalapeños 1 tbsp, roughly chopped (try Lindsay available at gourmet stores) lime 1, juiced fresh coriander leaves a small handful

QCook the garlic with the chipotle paste for a couple of minutes in a non-stick pan. Add the beans, vinegar, honey and some seasoning. Cook for 5 minutes until the flavours come together. QMix the avocado, red onion, jalapeños and lime juice together. QDivide the rice between two plates, spoon the beans over and top with the salsa. Scatter over a few coriander leaves before serving. QPER SERVING 378 kcals, protein 13g, carbs 58g, fat 12g, sat fat 2g, fibre 9g, sugar 10g, salt 0.92g

QPut the tomatoes, sugar, stock and sauces into a medium pan and season. Simmer for 5-10 minutes. Stir in the mascarpone and blend to a smooth soup. Return to the pan and keep warm while you make the dippers. QHeat the grill to high and toast the ciabatta until golden. Rub with the garlic, season, then top with the cheese and grill until melted. Slice into fingers and serve with the soup, sprinkled with basil leaves. QPER SERVING 414 kcals, protein 19g, carbs 38g, fat 22g, sat fat 13g, fibre 3g, sugar 15g, salt 2.13g

Recipe ROSIE REYNOLDS Photograph WILL HEAP

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MYLES NEW Styling JANINE RATCLIFFE Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

cherry tomatoes 400g caster sugar 1 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) vegetable stock 100ml tabasco and worcestershire sauce a dash each salt and pepper to season mascarpone 2 tbsp basil leaves a handful, torn (optional)

QCook the basmati rice until tender, then drain and keep warm in a covered pot. 42 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

eat in in season

Jamun and Shehtoot Make the most of these pretty-in-purple Indian berries bursting with colour and flavour Recipes KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA Prop Courtesy SANCTUM, LE MILL and FREEDOM TREE

“Jamun and shehtoot (Indian mulberries) are quintessential Indian berries. Seldom eaten in any other form except whole, I have tried to elevate these vibrant-hued local beauties by exploring their considerable potential in desserts as well as savoury dishes.” -Kainaz Contractor, Assistant Food Editor

minutes. Pat the fish dry with a kitchen towel. Heat the remaining oil in a pan and pan sear the fish; 5 minutes on each side depending on the thickness of the fillet. QIn the meantime, make the sauce for the fish. In a small pan, add the jamun butter and garlic. Once it melts on a slow flame and the garlic begins to cook, add the wine and lemon juice. Allow this to bubble for 2 minutes. QRemove the fish from the pan. Pour the sauce over and serve with the sautéed vegetables. QPER SERVING 642.5 kcals, protein 46.28g, carbs 4.4g, fat 47.63g, sat fat 18.6g, fibre 0.2g, salt 0.3g

Jamun granita Serves 6 Q15 minutes + churning and freezing Q EASY Here’s a spin on the classic kala khatta golas we’ve all grown up eating. The cooked jamun sobers down the fruit’s astringency while the kala namak adds a salty tang to this stunning deep purple granita. ripe jamun 3 dozen caster sugar 8 tbsp kala namak 1 1/2 tbsp lime juice 1 1/2 tbsp chilled water 1 1/4 cup

Fish with jamun and dill butter Serves 4 Q20 minutes Q EASY This jamun butter is absolutely addictive yet ridiculously easy to make. The jamun and dill combo adds an uplifting zing to the white wine sauce, which goes beautifully with the panseared fish. Lemon butter sauce will never be the same again. ripe jamun 1 1/2 dozen butter 100g, softened dill 2 tsp, chopped olive oil 6 tbsp salt and pepper to season rawas 4 fillets, 250g each 44 BBC GoodFood

garlic cloves 4, sliced white wine 6 tbsp lemon 1, juiced French beans and mushrooms to serve, sautéed QTake the jamuns and press each one down with your palm until the seed pops out and the flesh remains. Very finely chop the jamun. Mix the softened butter with a spoon until it attains a smooth, paste-like consistency. Mix this with the jamun and dill. Keep aside if using immediately or refrigerate for later use. QMix 2 tbsp olive oil, salt and pepper. Take each rawas fillet and smear with the oil mix. Leave to marinate for 15

REALLY REALLY QUICK

QTake each jamun and press it down with your palm until the seed pops out and the flesh remains. Cook the jamun flesh in a pan for 5-7 minutes. The jamun will reduce and let out some natural water. Cooking the fruit helps in removing its astringency. QCool the cooked jamun. Transfer to a mixer-blender and whizz until you get a rough purée. If you enjoy the astringency of jamun you could even blend them raw with the sugar. Transfer the jamun into a water jug, add the remaining ingredients and stir. You can add more black salt if you like. You may feel that the mix is too sweet but the sugar prevents the sorbet from turning into a block of ice. The sweetness will also reduce once frozen. Chill for an hour. JULY 2013

eat in in season

If you don’t have an ice cream maker, use a fork to scrape the frozen mix and return to the freezer. Continue to do this every hour for the next 4 hours. Scoop and serve. If the sorbet is too hard, allow it to soften slightly at room temperature before scooping.

THE JAMUN SALSA onion 1/2 small, very finely chopped tomato 1/2, blanched, skin removed and very finely chopped jamun 12, deseeded and roughly chopped jalapeño 1 small, finely chopped mint 1 tbsp, finely chopped coriander 1 tbsp, finely chopped lemon juice 1 tbsp salt to taste caster sugar 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp

QTip the granita mix into the ice cream maker and churn for 30 minutes. The granita should be fairly soft. Freeze for another 2 hours. Use a fork to scrape the surface and bring the frozen edges to the centre, scoop out and serve. QPER SERVING 75.17 kcals, protein 0.13g, carbs 18.9g, fat 0.03g, sat fat none, fibre none, salt 0.5g

Keema samosas with jamun salsa Makes 20 small samosas Q40 minutes Q EASY Try this quick canapé idea, perfect for a relaxed evening with family and friends. 46 BBC GoodFood

The jamun salsa offers a cooling and flavour packed contrast to the fresh-offthe-fryer keema and jamun samosas. jamun 2 dozen, roughly chopped oil 2 tbsp + extra for deep frying garlic cloves 6, sliced onion 1 small, finely chopped minced mutton, lamb or beef (keema) 250g cumin powder 1 1/2 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp coriander powder 1 1/2 tsp salt and pepper to taste pine nuts 3 tbsp, toasted samosa pattis 10 (try Switz available at gourmet stores)

QTake each jamun and press it down with your palm until the seed pops out and the flesh remains. Roughly chop the jamun; the chunkier the better. Keep aside. QIn a pan, add the oil and garlic. Once the oil starts to heat up and the garlic sizzles, add the onions and let them brown. Add the mince and cook until it turns brown. Now add the spices and cook for another 10 minutes until the keema is cooked. Season to taste. Add the pine nuts and jamun and cook for a minute. Leave to cool. QMix all the ingredients for the salsa together and chill. Take each samosa patti and place about 1 tsp of the keema mix at the edge of the patti, making sure to get 2-3 pieces of jamun on the patti and fold into a triangle. Seal the samosa with oil (or with a mix of water and all-purpose flour) to hold the samosa together. QFry the samosa until golden and crisp and serve immediately with the chilled jamun salsa. QPER SERVING 279.25 kcals, protein 9.45g, carbs 13.73g, fat 20.79g, sat fat 3.35g, fibre 1.88g, salt 0.1g

Pork with mulberry sauce Serves 4 Q50 minutes + marinating Q EASY The combination of pork and mulberry lives on in this slightly retro dish with meltingly tender meat smothered in a spicy and fruity sauce. All it needs is a dollop of mash. JULY 2013

eat in in season

10 minutes. Shake the dressing off the pork and pan fry for 8-10 minutes on each side on a medium flame. Keep the dressing aside. Remove the tenderloin, place it on a plate and leave to rest. QIn the same pan, using all the fatty juices of the pork, prepare the mulberry sauce. Tip in the reserved dressing and red wine.. Now add the mulberries and season to taste. Let it simmer for 10 minutes. Add the honey. If the mulberries are sweet you could avoid adding the honey altogether. Add the cornflour to thicken the sauce. Cook for 5 more minutes. QIn the meantime, prepare the potatoes by mashing them with a masher until smooth and lump free. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly until all the remaining ingredients are evenly incorporated in the mash. Now heat this up on the stove or in the microwave. QTo serve, slice the pork into medallions and top with the sauce along with a side of creamy mash potatoes. QPER SERVING 592.25 kcals, protein 30.08g, carbs 38.88g, fat 35.05g, sat fat 8.28g, fibre 3.55g, salt 1.6g

Jamun cheesecake Serves 6 Q60 minutes + refrigeration Q EASY

pork tenderloin fillets 500g garlic cloves 6, minced bird’s eye chillies 2-3, finely chopped soya sauce 4 tbsp oil 3 tbsp + 3 tbsp for pan frying ginger 1 tbsp, minced star anise 2 salt 1/2 tsp black pepper 1 tbsp

red wine 1/2 cup honey 2 tbsp cornflour 1 tsp

THE MULBERRY SAUCE mulberries 2 cups

QMarinate the tenderloin with the rest of the ingredients. Leave for about

48 BBC GoodFood

THE MASHED POTATOES potatoes 350g, boiled butter 2 tbsp, softened cream or milk 4 tbsp salt and pepper to taste

Blueberry cheesecake is so passé. You’ll be surprised at how beautifully the flavour of jamun goes with the mascarpone and cream cheese. For a lighter cake, you could also use a yoghurt base instead of the whipped cream. We for one can’t get enough of the cheesecake’s striking purple hue. jamun 5 dozen + a handful extra for garnish caster sugar 3 tbsp, heaped Mc Vities digestive biscuits 10 butter 50g, melted cornflour powder 1 tsp mascarpone cheese 400g (try Impero available at gourmet stores) cream cheese 100g (try Kraft available at gourmet stores) JULY 2013

eat in in season

Mulberry panna cotta (recipe overleaf)

whipping cream 100g icing sugar 6 tbsp

add a sour contrast to this otherwise sweet dessert.

QTake the jamuns and press each one down with your palm until the seed pops out and the flesh remains. Finely chop the flesh. Cook this in a pan with 2 tbsp sugar for 5-7 minutes. The jamun will reduce and let out some natural water. Cooking the jamun helps in removing the fruit’s inherent astringency. Place in a sieve and press the juices out so that they drain in a bowl. Leave aside to cool. QIn the meantime, whizz together the biscuits until they resemble fine breadcrumbs. Pour the melted butter in and whizz again. Press the biscuit base into an 8 inch round spring form pan with a detachable base. Spread the cooled jamun flesh evenly over the base. Refrigerate. QTo make the jamun glaze, take the drained juices of the jamun and heat it with the remaining sugar. Mix the cornflour powder with 1 tbsp of water and add it to the jamun juices. You will get a viscous glaze. Leave to cool. QIn a bowl, whisk the whipping cream with an electric whisk until light and airy. Add the mascarpone and whisk further until smooth. Now add the cream cheese and icing sugar and whisk again until light and fluffy. Take the biscuit and jamun base and top with the cheese mix. Smoothen out the top of the cake with a spatula. Refrigerate for an hour. QRemove the cheesecake from its mould and spread an even layer of the jamun glaze on top of the cheesecake and decorate with jamun slices in the middle of the cheesecake. QPER SERVING 634.5 kcals, protein 6.72g, carbs 43.52g, fat 47.43g, sat fat 8g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.1g

gelatine 2 1/2 tsp warm water 6 tbsp cream 500ml caster sugar 7 tbsp blueberries 1 cup mulberries 3 cups

Mulberry panna cotta Serves 4 Q30 minutes + refrigeration Q EASY Creamy panna cotta, plump mulberries and glistening ruby red mulberry compote make a drool-worthy dessert with very little effort. The blueberries 50 BBC GoodFood

QIn a large bowl, mix the gelatine and the water. Keep aside for 5 minutes. Oil the panna cotta moulds with neutral flavoured oil. Take a pan, heat the cream and 6 tbsp sugar until the sugar melts. Add half the blueberries and the mulberries. Lightly mash the berries. Do not let the cream boil. Cool for 5 minutes. Add this warm mix to the gelatine and stir until it dissolves. Cool. QPour the mix into the moulds and refrigerate for 4-5 hours until set. Take 1 cup mulberries and cook it with the remaining sugar. Purée the mulberries and pass through a sieve. Return to the stove and add the remaining mulberries and blueberries. Keep aside to cool. Refrigerate. QTo unmould the panna cotta, dip the moulds in a bath of hot water for 2 seconds and place a plate on top. Upturn the mould so that the plate is at the bottom. Give it one firm shake and unmould. Serve immediately with the mulberry compote. QPER SERVING 326.5 kcals, protein 9.1g, carbs 41.53g, fat 14.68g, sat fat 9.18g, fibre 2.68g, salt none

Mulberry pie Serves 6 Q45 minutes + chilling and baking QMODERATELY EASY This simple pie is made to be shared. The pucker-inducing sweetness of the mulberries takes centre stage and stands out as the star in this dessert. Serve with ice cream or a dollop of fresh cream. all purpose flour (maida) 1 1/4 cup butter 75g, chilled and cubed salt a pinch icing sugar 1/4 cup iced water to bind

butter 1 tsp, softened mulberries 2 cups lemon 1, juiced caster sugar 2 tbsp cornflour 1 tsp, mixed with water egg 1, whisked QIn a bowl, mix together the flour, butter, salt and icing sugar until they resemble breadcrumbs. You’ll need to break through the chilled butter cubes with your fingers. Now add enough chilled water to form a dry dough. Make sure you add little water at a time to ensure it’s not too wet. Knead for around 5 minutes. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes. QPre-heat the oven to 160°C. In a pan, melt the butter and add the mulberries. Cook for 5 minutes and add the sugar and lemon juice. The mulberries will let out some of their natural water. Add the cornflour mix. Let the mulberries bubble for a bit until the sauce thickens. Leave to cool. QTake out the dough and divide it in the ratio of 3:1. Roll out the bigger ball of dough and use it to line an 8 inch pie dish. Keep a little extra dough hanging and crimp the edges along the rim of the dish. Chill for 30 minutes; this will prevent the dough from shrinking in the pie dish. Blind bake for 20 minutes at 160°C. Remove beans and bake for 10 more minutes with an egg wash. This will prevent the base from getting soggy when you put the mulberry filling. QIn the meantime, roll out the other ball of dough and cut into long strips. Remove the pie from the oven Add the mulberry mix and top the pie with the strips. First place them horizontally and then vertically along the surface of the pie. Now take a butter knife and slice off the dough hanging off the edges. Crimp them along the edges so that they don’t hang loose. Brush with the egg wash and bake at 180°C for 20-25 minutes until golden brown. QPER SERVING 400.5 kcals, protein 6.83g, carbs 56.53g, fat 17.15g, sat fat 10.45g, fibre 2.7g, salt 0.2g

JULY 2013

eat in in season

eat in modern veggie

e c i v r e s p i h c

Photograph GARETH MORGANS

n takes o d e t s e t dried-an f r u o ve you’ll lo — y s e e ked, ch a b , y n n , ski Classic ed French fry ov the bel

eat in modern veggie

Healthy fries Serves 4 Q35 minutes Q EASY These baked fries are half as calorific but just as delicious as their deepfried cousins. Use this recipe as a base to innovate with other dishes. Poutine (see recipe on p 132) or chilli fries perhaps?

Recipe Reci pe CASSI CASSI A EB BEST Photo Photo h grap g h DAVID DAVID V MUNN N SS Stylin yli g L LISA A HARR ARRI RRISON R O Food o sty s ling JEN JENNIFE N RJ NIFE JOYCE E

potatoes 750g, peeled and sliced into thick chips plain flour (maida) 2 tbsp sunflower oil 2 tbsp salt to taste QHeat the oven to 200°C. Boil a large pan of water, then add the potatoes and boil for 2-3 minutes until the outsides are just tender but not too soft. QDrain well, then tip onto a large baking tray with the flour, oil and salt. Gently toss together until all the potatoes are evenly coated and the flour is no longer dusty. Roast for 25 minutes, turning occasionally, until the chips are golden and crisp. Serve with tomato ketchup and mustard. QPER SERVING 440 kcals, protein 8g, carbs 83g, fat 31g, sat fat 6g, fibre 2g, sugar 1.8g, salt 4.1g

Baked skinny fries (recipe overleaf)

Sweet potato fries

Cheesy chips

Serves 4 Q1 hour Q EASY

Serves 8 Q40 minutes Q EASY

These healthy fries make for great party nibbles. Serve with a sharp blue cheese dip for contrasting flavours.

A real guilty pleasure, these parmesantopped French fries with a creamy cheese, mustard and chive dip will feed a crowd in fine fashion.

Recipe DAVID ROOD Photograph DAVID MUNNS

sweet potatoes 700g, peeled oil for deep frying smoked paprika to garnish (try Ahumado available at gourmet stores) sea salt to garnish (try Roland available at gourmet stores)

Baked skinny fries Serves 4 Q40 minutes Q EASY A simple side dish of homemade chips isn’t always a crime — this version coats the potatoes in spices too. vegetable oil 1 tbsp polenta 2 tsp (try Valsugana available at gourmet stores) paprika 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) garlic clove 1/2, crushed salt and pepperr to season potatoes 2 large, cut into 1cm-thick chips QHeat the oven to 200°C. Pour the oil onto a baking tray and put in the oven for 3 minutes. Mix the polenta, paprika and garlic together and season. Toss the chips in the mix, then tip onto the tray. Shake well, then cook for 25 minutes, shaking halfway through, until crisp and golden. QPER SERVING 118 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 20g, fat 3g, sat fat none, fibre 2g, sugar 1g, salt 1.7g 54 BBC GoodFood

QCut the sweet potatoes lengthways into thin 1/2cm chips. Put in iced water for about 15 minutes, then drain and pat dry with a kitchen towel. QSet the deep fryer at 170°C or heat the oil in a saucepan no more than 1/3 full. Heat until a cube of bread browns in a minute. If using an oven, heat to 180°C. QDeep-fry the chips until golden brown then drain on a kitchen towel, sprinkle with salt and paprika and serve. QIf using an oven, put the sweet potato chips on a baking tray, toss in 3 tbsp vegetable oil and roast until golden. Finish as above. QPER SERVING 310 kcals, protein 2.1g, carbs 34.8g, fat 18g, sat fat 2.2g, fibre 5.6g, salt 0.4g

These cheesy chips were quite pleasing and spot on. I substituted mustard powder with dijon mustard for a lighter flavour and used homemade garlic salt, which I made by adding garlic powder to sea salt. The sea salt made the fries crispier. The parmesan added depth to the fries and the dip was comfortingly cheesy and gooey. I used fresh rosemary instead of chives since I like the combination better. If you want to satiate your craving for cheesy fries in a jiffy, then this recipe is your best bet. Tarjani Bhatt is a recipe developer who specialises in flavoured butter. She lives in Mumbai.

frozen skinny French fries 700g (try McCain available at gourmet stores) parmesan cheese 25g, grated garlic salt 1/2 tsp (try Roland available at gourmet stores) THE DIP plain flour (maida) 25g English mustard powder 1 tsp (try Coleman’s available at gourmet stores) milk 300ml cheddar cheese 140g, grated salt and pepperr to season chives a few leaves, snipped QTo make the dip, heat the flour, mustard powder and milk in a saucepan and gently cook, whisking constantly, until smooth. Carry on bubbling and stirring until thickened. Turn off the heat, stir in the cheese until melted, then season to taste. Scrape into a microwave-proof bowl and put some cling-film directly on the surface. QHeat the oven to 220°C. Spread the fries on 1-2 big baking trays and cook for 10 minutes, then scatter over the parmesan and garlic salt — use tongs to toss and coat all the chips in the cheese, then carry on baking for 5 minutes more until golden and crisp. If the chips aren’t crispy enough, increase the temperature to 240°C for a few minutes. QGently reheat the dip in the microwave until warm, stir in the chives and serve with the hot chips. QPER SERVING 361 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 32g, fat 21g, sat fat 10g, fibre 3g, sugar 3g, salt 1.4g

JULY 2013

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

eat in modern veggie

Parmesan potato skins Serves 4 Q1 hour 25 minutes Q EASY Bake up crispy potato skins with cayenne pepper, paprika and cheese then serve with a dip for a movie night nibble. potatoes 4 large olive oil 1 tbsp cayenne pepper 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) paprika 1/2 tsp (try Keya available at gourmet stores) salt 1/2 tsp parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

Harissa sweet potato wedges Serves 4 Q35 minutes Q EASY Sweet potato chips make a healthy, high-fibre alternative to traditional chips, but taste just as good (if not better!)

REALLY sweet potatoes 1kg, scrubbed R REALLY and cut into wedges EASY Y harissa paste 1 tbsp (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) soured cream and chives to serve

QHeat the oven to 200°C. In a large bowl, combine the wedges with the harissa. Transfer to a baking tray and cook for 25 minutes until the potatoes are tender and crispy at the edges. Serve with soured cream mixed with snipped chives. QPER SERVING 224 kcals, protein 3g, carbs 54g, fat 1g, sat fat none, fibre 6g, sugar 14g, salt 0.32g

Recipe ALLY BRIGHT Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

QHeat the oven to 180°C. Bake the potatoes for 50-60 minutes. Once cooked, cool slightly before halving and scraping out the middles, leaving about 1-cm of potato in the skins. Cut each skin into 3 and toss on a baking sheet with the olive oil, cayenne pepper, paprika, salt and grated parmesan. Bake for a further 10-15 minutes until crisp and golden. QPER SERVING 173 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 22g, fat 5g, sat fat 2g, fibre 5g, sugar 1g, salt 0.8g

eat in modern veggie

Skinny carrot fries Serves 2 Q40 minutes Q EASY Want to eat healthier but can’t give up chips? Try these low-fat, crispy baked carrots with tarragon.

Recipe EMILY KYDD Photograph LARA HOLMES Styling SUE ROWLANDS Food styling KATY GREENWOOD

carrots 500g cornflour 1 tbsp black pepper a pinch vegetable oil 1 tbsp salt to taste fresh tarragon 1 tbsp, finely chopped

QHeat the oven to 200°C. Cut the carrots into ‘fries’, about 1-cm thick, and mix with the cornflour and a little black pepper. Toss with the vegetable oil, spread in a single layer on a baking tray lined with parchment, and bake for 25-30 minutes, turning halfway. Mix a little salt with tarragon and toss through the cooked fries. QPER SERVING 164 kcals, protein 2g, carbs 25g, fat 6g, sat fat 1g, fibre 8g, sugar 18g, salt 0.4g

eat in weekend

id er sa v e o Wh atballs me ng belo ly to sive exclu talians? the I lly every a Virtu ne in the cuisi d has a worl of this on versi rt classic o comf

ball of fame

weekend

Nothing perks us up quite like a bowlful of hearty tomatodrunk meatballs with spaghetti. But this simple and inexpensive dish is so versatile, nearly every country on the planet has a spin on it. From the fiery Thai beef minced ball and Moroccan lamb meatballs with couscous and harissa to our very own achari meatballs with classic Indian flavours, we celebrate meatballs from across the globe with our simple yet innovative recipes. Vegetarians, take heart, we have a veggie ‘meatball’ just for you!

Red Thai meatball curry Serves 4 Q40 minutes Q EASY Try this colourful and zingy meatball curry bursting with Thai flavours. And it’s a wonderful family-style dish too. lean beef orr lamb mince 500g red chillies 2, 1 chopped + 1 sliced ginger a thumb-size piece, grated egg 1 salt and pepper to season sunflower oil 1 tbsp Thai red curry paste 1-1 1/2 tbsp (try Blue Elephant available at gourmet stores) coconut milk k 400ml bamboo shoots 225g (try Blue Dragon available at gourmet stores) French beans 125g, trimmed lime 1, juiced + extra wedges to serve JULY 2013

basil 20g basmati rice or rice noodles to serve QPut the mince into a large bowl with the chopped chilli, ginger and egg, then season generously. Mix well with your hands, then shape into 20 meatballs. They can be made and chilled up to a day ahead. QHeat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan, then brown the meatballs for 5 minutes. Tip onto a plate. Add the curry paste, fry for 1 minute, then pour in the coconut milk and half a can of

water. Bring back to the boil and stir to make a smooth sauce. QReturn the meatballs to the pan with the bamboo shoots and beans. Simmer for 5 minutes until the beans are just tender and meatballs cooked through. To serve, season the sauce with salt, pepper and lime juice, then tear in the basil leaves. Scatter with sliced chilli and serve with rice or noodles and more lime wedges for squeezing over. QPER SERVING 371 kcals, protein 31g, carbs 4g, fat 26g, sat fat 13g, fibre 2g, sugar 3g, salt 0.79g BBC GoodFood 59

water and the garlic and stir well. Add the lamb, lemon juice, crushed spices, egg and most of the mint. Season well. Mix well, then shape into 16 balls. Chill for 30 minutes. QHeat the oil in a frying pan. Fry the balls for 6-7 minutes, turning now and then, until golden brown and cooked. Keep warm. Put the couscous in a large heatproof bowl, then rub in the butter, harissa and lemon juice. Pour over 400ml boiling water, cover and leave for around 10 minutes. Fluff up and season. Shred the remaining mint, then mix through. Serve with harissa and yoghurt. QPER SERVING 651 kcals, protein 33g, carbs 50g, fat 37g, sat fat 16g, fibre none, sugar 2g, salt 0.84g

Achari chicken meatball wrap Serves 4 Q30 minutes Q EASY Recipe AMIT PAMNANI Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA

Serves 4 Q55 minutes + chilling Q EASY This dish combines all the flavours of a tagine in meatball form, with the kick of harissa-spiced couscous and a cooling dollop of yogurt. cumin seeds 2 tsp coriander seeds 2 tbsp breadcrumbs 50g garlic clove 1, crushed lamb mince 500g lemon 1, juiced egg 1, lightly beaten 60 BBC GoodFood

mint 20g, chopped sunflower oil 2-3 tbsp yoghurt 150ml, to serve THE COUSCOUS couscous 300g (try Tipiak available at gourmets stores) butter 50g harissa 2 tbsp, to serve (try Al Fez available at gourmet stores) lemon juice 1 tbsp Q Heat a heavy-based pan over a low heat. Add the spices to the pan then toast for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Crush using a pestle and mortar. Set aside. QMix the breadcrumbs with 2 tbsp

THE ACHARI GRAVY oil 1 tbsp fenugreek (methi) seeds 1/2 tsp mustard seeds 1/2 tsp saunf 1/2 tsp jeera 1/2 tsp onion seeds 1/2 tsp onions 2, chopped ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp coriander powder 1 tsp tomatoes 2, chopped salt to taste JULY 2013

Recipe JOHN TORODE Photograph DAVID MUNNS

Moroccan lamb meatballs with harissa and couscous

THE MEATBALLS chicken mince 250g breadcrumbs 3 tbsp egg 1 ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp coriander powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1 tsp green chilli 1, chopped coriander a handful, chopped salt to taste garam masala powder 2 tsp oil to deep fry

eat in weekend

Puttanesca meatballs

THE TOPPINGS oil 1 tbsp onions 2, thickly sliced yoghurt 1/2 cup salt to taste mint a handful, chopped jeera powder 1 tsp chapatis or tortillas 4 lettuce a handful, shredded cheese cube 1, grated

Classic Swedish meatballs Serves 4 Q35 minutes Q EASY This delicately flavoured Swedish meatball dish with dill is comforting 62 BBC GoodFood

This Italian dish uses rigatoni or penne instead of thin, pasta-like spaghetti so that it absorbs all the meaty sauce that is flavoured with fennel. Using a mix of beef and pork mince in this recipe gives a juicier meatball.

on a rainy day. Serve with some warm bread to soak up all the meaty juices. lean pork mince 400g egg 1, beaten onion 1 small, finely chopped fresh white breadcrumbs 85g dill 1 tbsp, finely chopped + extra to serve salt and pepper to season olive oil 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp flour 2 tbsp beef stock 400ml QIn a bowl, mix the mince with the egg, onion, breadcrumbs, dill and seasoning. Form into small meatballs about the size of walnuts — you should get about 20. QHeat the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan and brown the meatballs. You may have to do this in 2 batches. Remove from pan, melt the butter, then sprinkle over the flour and stir well. Cook for about 2 minutes, then slowly whisk in the stock. Keep whisking until thick, then season and return the meatballs to the pan and heat through. Sprinkle with dill and serve with cranberry jelly, greens and mash. QPER SERVING 301 kcals, protein 26g, carbs 22g, fat 13g, sat fat 4g, fibre 1g, sugar 2g, salt 1.73g

beef mince 250g pork mince 250g onion 1, grated parmesan 25g, finely grated garlic cloves 3, 1 crushed + 2 finely sliced salt and pepper to season olive oil 2 tbsp chilli flakes a large pinch fennel seeds 1/2 tsp tomatoes 800g, chopped red wine 1 glass (optional) sugar 1 tsp olives 10, halved (try Fragata available at gourmet stores) capers 1 tbsp (try Lindsay available at gourmet stores) rigatoni or penne pasta 400g, cooked to serve (try Garofalo available at gourmet stores) QPut the beef and pork mince, onion, parmesan and crushed garlic in a bowl. Season well, then form into small meatballs. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a non-stick frying pan then cook the meatballs until browned all over. Scoop out of the pan. QAdd another tablespoon of oil to the pan, cook the sliced garlic for about 2 minutes then add the chilli flakes and fennel and cook for a minute. Tip in the tomatoes and wine, if using, with the sugar. Simmer for 10 minutes or until thickened. Add back the meatballs with the olives and capers and simmer for another 10 minutes. Serve with the pasta. QPER SERVING 356 kcals, protein 29.8g, carbs 9.4g, fat 22.4g, sat fat 8.5g, fibre 3g, salt 0.95g

JULY 2013

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

QTo make the meatballs, mix all the ingredients together except the oil to form a homogenous mix. Divide the mixture into small balls. QHeat the oil in a wok. Fry the meatballs on a medium heat till golden brown. Keep aside. QFor the achari gravy, heat oil in a pan. Add the methi seeds, mustard seeds, saunf, jeera and onion seeds. Let them splutter, then add the onions. Sauté for 5-6 minutes until light brown. Add the ginger-garlic paste and sauté for a minute. Add turmeric, chilli powder and coriander powder and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes. Season and keep aside. QFor the topping, heat the oil in a pan and sauté the sliced onions until caramelised. Keep aside. Whip the yoghurt with salt, mint and jeera powder. QTo assemble, take a chapati or a tortilla. Put some shredded lettuce in the centre. Place caramelised onions on top of the lettuce. Arrange the meatballs on top of the onions. Pour the gravy on top of the meatballs. QTop with grated cheese and drizzle the mint yoghurt. Roll tightly and serve immediately, wrapped in foil or secured with toothpicks. QPER SERVING 422.75 kcals, protein 21.75g, carbs 27.43g, fat 24.55g, sat fat 1.43g, fibre 5.23g, salt 0.4g

Serves 4 Q45 minutes Q EASY

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

eat in weekend

eat in weekend

Prop courtesy FREEDOM TREE

green chillies 2, slit lengthwise soya sauce 1 tbsp ketchup 1 tbsp vinegar 1 tsp chilli sauce 1 tbsp water 1 tbsp spring onion greens 1 tbsp, chopped black pepper a pinch

Chilli and garlic soya meatballs Serves 4 Q30 minutes Q EASY Recipe AMIT PAMNANI Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA oil 300ml, for deep frying + 2 tbsp extra THE MEATBALLS soya mince 1/2 cup (try Nutrela available at gourmet stores) 64 BBC GoodFood

water 2 cups ginger-garlic paste 1 tsp green chilli 1, chopped garam masala 1 tsp breadcrumbs 1 cup salt to taste pepper a pinch spring onion bulbs 2, sliced red pepper 1/2, sliced garlic cloves 1 tbsp, chopped

QBoil the soya mince and water together for 5 minutes. Drain the mince and refresh with cool water. Squeeze out any excess water and keep aside. QMix the meatball ingredients together and form a firm dough. Divide the dough into small balls. QHeat the oil in a wok and deep fry a soya ball, taking care that it doesn’t disintegrate. In case it breaks, add some breadcrumbs to bind it. Fry another meatball and check. Once it fries easily without breaking, fry the rest of the meatballs. Keep aside. QHeat 2 tbsp oil in a pan. On a high flame, add the sliced spring onion, red pepper, garlic and chillies. Sauté for a minute. Add the soya sauce, ketchup, vinegar, chilli sauce and water. Mix well and then add the meatballs. QCook for a couple of minutes, add a tablespoon of water if required. The sauce should be of a coating consistency. Once the meatballs are heated through in the sauce, garnish with chopped spring onion greens and black pepper. Serve hot. QPER SERVING 357 kcals, protein 12.3g, carbs 33.03g, fat 19.68g, sat fat 1.13g, fibre 1.58g, salt 0.5g JULY 2013

Kayastha cooking Discover a treasure trove of home-style recipes from the aristocratic Kayasthas famed for their unique culinary traditions. Adapted from Preeta Mathur’s Kayastha Kitchens Through India Recipes PREETA MATHUR Photographs SANJAY RAMCHANDRAN

Badi bauwa ki handia (recipe on p 100)

eat in entertaining

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GOOD FOOD READER OFFER!

“Kayastha cuisine holds a vast, largely untapped richness of family tradition; tenaciously guarded recipes that are passed down from one generation to the next but rarely documented. This compilation is a personal culinary expression of what I learnt from my mother, and she from hers. In today’s busy life, the skilful blending of ingredients and the use of subtle cooking techniques including dum, bhuna, and dhungar (charcoal smoking) would be somewhat daunting. Yet these facets that raise Kayastha cooking to a sublime art form. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have.” – Preeta Mathur, Author, Courtly Cuisine— Kayastha Kitchens Through India. JULY 2013

Don’t miss our fabulous reader offer – 20 per cent off on Preeta Mathur’s Kayastha Kitchens Through India. Just show your copy of BBC Good Food’s July issue at the book shop’s cash counter and ask for your discount. Please note that this offer is only valid at CMYK stores across the country until 1st August, 2013.

Chuki sabut mattar (tender and spiced pea pods) Serves 8-10 Q30 minutes Q EASY Make sure you select tender and young green peas as the full pod is cooked with tangy masala. While eating, the whole pod is put in the mouth, holding one end of the pod with the fingers. It is clenched between the front teeth, then pulled out, leaving the peas and the tender pod skin in the mouth.

REALLY REALLY

ghee 2 tbsp EASY asafoetida (hing) a big pinch cumin seeds 1/2 tsp young pea pods 1kg, washed and drained

GOOD FOOD STAR RECIPE salt to taste garam masala powder 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder 1 tsp dried mango powder (amchoor) 3-4 tsp QHeat the ghee in a wok; add the asafoetida and cumin seeds. When the seeds start crackling, add the whole pea pods. QSprinkle salt, garam masala and red chilli powder. Reduce the heat and cook. Sprinkle water, if required. When the peas are tender, sprinkle the mango powder and mix well. Serve hot. Q PER SERVING 137.88 kcals, protein 7.01g, carbs 18.58g, fat 4.33g, sat fat 2.24g, fibre 6.49g, salt 1g

BBC GoodFood 67

THE LENTIL STRIPS husked black lentils 250g, soaked for 2-4 hours in water, drained asafoetida (hing) a big pinch red chilli powder 1/2 tsp coriander powder 1/2 tsp oil 100ml, for frying THE GRAVY oil 2 tbsp bay leaves 2 ginger-garlic paste 2 tbsp onion paste 2 tbsp tomato paste 1 tbsp yoghurt 1 1/2 tbsp coriander powder 1 tsp turmeric 1/2 tsp red chilli powder 1/2 tsp salt to taste garam masala powder 1 tsp THE GARNISH coriander 1 tbsp, chopped

Badi bauwa ki handia (earthy-flavoured chicken) Serves 4-6 Q50 minutes + marinating time Q EASY This preparation is cooked in a new earthen pot, which gives the chicken a unique earthy fragrance and flavour. You could even use a heavy pan. yoghurt 250g salt to taste ginger and garlic paste 2 tbsp each green chillies 6, 3 ground to a paste + 3 slit and deseeded to garnish chicken 1kg, cut into 8 pieces ghee 2 tbsp bay leaves 3 black cardamoms 3 cinnamon a 1-inch stick black peppercorns 6 cashewnut paste 125g saffron a generous pinch, dissolved in 2 tbsp warm milk flour dough to seal cream 2 tbsp garam masala powder 1 tbsp QBeat the yoghurt in a bowl with salt. Add half the ginger and garlic paste and all of the green chilli paste. 68 BBC GoodFood

Marinate the chicken in this mixture for 2-3 hours. QHeat the ghee in an earthenware pot or a heavy-bottomed pan; add the bay leaves, black cardamoms, cinnamon and black peppercorns. When slightly aromatic, add the remaining ground ginger-garlic paste and stir. QAdd the chicken mixture, cashewnut paste, and saffron mixture; mix well. Cover the pot with kneaded flour dough to seal in the fragrance. Cook on low heat for 30 minutes or till the chicken is done. QJust before serving, break open the dough seal. Garnish with slit green chillies, cream and garam masala powder. Serve hot with parathas. Q PER SERVING 354.17 kcals, protein 40.13g, carbs 8.62g, fat 16.05g, sat fat 4.38g, fibre 0.45g, salt 0.2g

Riconch (deep-fried lentil strips in tomato gravy) Serves 4-6 Q50 minutes Q A LITTLE EFFORT This is a traditional dish from Daryabad in Uttar Pradesh. I am grateful to my friend Anila for demonstrating it.

QFor the lentil strips, grind the lentils with the asafoetida, red chilli and coriander powder. Beat the mixture till light and fluffy. To check the lightness of the batter, drop 1/4 tsp in a bowl of water. If it rises, it is done and if it settles down it needs to be beaten more. QSpread 1 tbsp of the lentil batter on your wet palm. Cut into rectangular strips, about 1 1/2 -2 inches in breadth. Trim off the uneven edges with a knife. QHeat the oil in a wok; deep-fry the strips until brown. Remove and drain the excess oil on a kitchen towel. QFor the gravy, heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok; add the bay leaves. Stir in the gingergarlic paste. Add the onion paste and sauté till golden brown. Add the tomato paste and yoghurt. Stir in the coriander powder, turmeric powder, red chilli powder and salt. QAdd the garam masala and sauté till the oil separates. Pour 2 cups of warm water. When it starts boiling, lower the heat and add the lentil strips. Cook on low heat till the gravy thickens. Remove and serve hot, garnished with coriander and accompanied with phulkas or rice. Q PER SERVING 369.33 kcals, protein 13.42g, carbs 31.87g, fat 21.97g, sat fat 1.25g, fibre 9.57g, salt 0.1g JULY 2013

eat in entertaining

Garlay (recipe overleaf)

Lazeez meen dum (fish chunks cooked on charcoal fire) Serves 6-8 Q1 hour + overnight refrigeration Q EASY Chunks of fish are cooked on charcoal fire in a wide open pateela or lagan (a round and shallow copper pan). Live charcoals are placed on the lid, which is sealed with flour dough. fish chunks (surmai) 1kg, with one central bone, smeared with 1 tsp salt and 1/4 cup vinegar, lightly pricked with a fork and pat-dried ghee 200g onions 200g, thinly sliced flour dough to seal coriander 15g, chopped almonds 2 tbsp, toasted and chopped

Garlay (deep-fried gram flour and lamb balls) Serves 6-7 Q1 hour 15 minutes Q MODERATELY EASY Garlay or garelu in Telugu is a popular snack, referred to as ghazak in Hyderabad. Given the Andhraites’ penchant for chillies, the fieriness has to be adjusted in this preparation according to taste and preference. lamb mince 250g red chilli powder 1 tbsp salt to taste oil for frying coriander 30g, chopped green chillies 2-3, chopped THE SPICE PASTE coriander 1/2 cup mint leaves 1 tsp green chillies 2-3, deseeded ginger a 1-inch piece, scraped garlic cloves 8 THE THICK BATTER gram flour 250g salt to taste red chilli powder 1 tsp

70 BBC GoodFood

THE THIN BATTER gram flour 3 tbsp salt to taste QBoil the mince with red chilli powder, salt and water till it is cooked through and the mixture is completely dry. Remove and keep aside to cool. When cool, grind to a paste. QFinely grind all the ingredients of the spice paste together until coarse. Keep aside. QIn a bowl make a thick batter with gram flour, salt, red chilli powder and the spice paste. Heat the oil in a wok on slow heat; lower 1 tbsp of the batter mixture into the oil and deep-fry, in batches, to make crisp brown balls. Remove and drain on a kitchen towel. Repeat till all the mixture is used up. Allow them to cool so that they turn crisp. QCrush the balls well with your fingers. Mix the ground mince with the crushed balls. Sprinkle some water if required. Add the coriander and green chillies; mix. Make walnut-sized balls and keep aside. QMake a thin batter with gram flour and salt. Dip the mince balls in the batter and deep-fry till golden brown. Serve hot. Q PER SERVING 352.43 kcals, protein 17.1g, carbs 23.31g, fat 20.84g, sat fat 2.81g, fibre 3.26g, salt 0.1g

THE MARINADE garlic cloves 1 1/2 tbsp, chopped ginger 1 1/2 tbsp, chopped black cardamoms 2 tsp, seeds only, ground red chilli powder 1 tsp almonds 8, 6 ground with 2 tbsp water + 2 chopped to garnish lemon 1, juiced cream 120ml meetha ittar 2 drops screw pine water (kevda) 1 tbsp saffron a pinch, dissolved in 2 tbsp warm milk salt to taste QMarinate the fish chunks with all the ingredients of the marinade. Cover and refrigerate ovenight. QHeat the ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan; add the onions and fry till golden. Add the fish along with its marinade. Close the lid and seal it with flour dough. QPlace it on a charcoal fire or a gas stove. It should be slow cooked. If cooking on fire or gas, place red hot embers on the lid. QBreak the seal just before serving. Garnish with coriander and almonds. Q PER SERVING 409.63 kcals, protein 24.58g, carbs 5.36g, fat 32.1g, sat fat 17.79g, fibre 1.39g, salt 0.4g JULY 2013

eat in entertaining

Bhuna zimikand (spiced yoghurt yam) Serves 4-6 Q1 hour Q EASY This recipe can also be made with raw banana or jackfruit. To make this dish with raw bananas, peel and cut them into small roundels and fry them. For jackfruit, use a greased knife and greased hands to remove the peel and cut the jackfruit into 1 1/2 inch pieces. Do not remove the seeds. oil for deep frying + 3 tbsp extra yam (suran) 500g, peeled and cubed onions 2 medium, sliced ginger a 1-inch piece, finely chopped garlic cloves 6, peeled and chopped red chilli powder 1 tsp turmeric powder 1/2 tsp coriander powder 2 tsp salt to taste yoghurt 4 tbsp coriander leaves to garnish garam masala 1 tsp, to garnish QHeat the oil in a pan and fry the yam pieces till golden. Remove and keep aside. QIn another pan, heat 3 tbsp oil and fry the onions till brown. Stir in the ginger and garlic and sauté. Add the red chilli powder, turmeric, coriander powder and salt. Sprinkle water if required and sauté further. QAdd the fried yam. After a minute, pour the yoghurt. Cover and cook on low heat. Add 3/4 cup water and cover again. Let it simmer for 10 minutes. (If the yam needs to be cooked more, add 1/2 cup warm water and cook for another 5-7 minutes.) QGarnish with chopped coriander and sprinkle garam masala before serving. Q PER SERVING 349 kcals, protein 2.62g, carbs 28.07g, fat 25.6g, sat fat 1.53g, fibre 4.98g, salt none

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with the cloves, cinnamon, green cardamoms and rice. QCook the rice and drain in a colander. Remove the whole spices. Heat the one-strand sugar syrup. Add the rice and stir gently for a minute. Cook for 10 minutes till all the liquid is reduced. QAdd the khoya, dried fruits, ghee and saffron mixture. Serve garnished with silver leaves (optional). Q PER SERVING 973.5 kcals, protein 8.42g, carbs 180.55g, fat 27.23g, sat fat 16.41g, fibre 0.42g, salt 0.1g

Phirni (thickened rice pudding) Serves 6-8 Q35 minutes Q EASY Cold phirni served in earthen bowls with nuts is an excellent, cooling dessert. The aroma of the clay bowls lends a unique earthy flavour. full-cream milk 1l rice 3 tbsp, soaked in water for 1 hour, drained, and ground to a paste sugar 250g, powdered green cardamoms 5, powdered raisins 10 rosewater 1 tbsp saffron a big pinch, soaked in 2 tbsp warm water almonds 20, blanched, skinned and slivered pistachios 10, blanched, skinned and slivered

Meetha chawal (sweetened rice) Serves 8-10 Q1 hour Q EASY This sweet and fragrant rice dessert is cooked with dry fruits, sugar and flavoured with saffron. A delicious alternative to milky rice kheer! THE ONE-STRAND SUGAR SYRUP sugar 750g water 300ml saffron, a pinch dissolved in warm water THE RICE cloves 8-10 72 BBC GoodFood

cinnamon a 1-inch stick, halved green cardamoms 10 REALLY REALLY basmati rice 3 cups EASY khoya 250g, crumbled dried fruits (almond, pistachios and charoli) 2 tbsp, slivered ghee 200g saffron a big pinch, dissolved in 7-8 drops of screw pine water (kevda) or rosewater QTo make the syrup, boil the sugar and water together. Stir constantly to avoid the sugar from crystallising. Add the saffron mixture and keep aside. This will take 30 minutes. QBoil 2 1/2 litres of water along

QBoil the milk in a heavy-bottomed pot; add the rice paste. Stir constantly with a whisk, so that there are no lumps. QWhen it is thick and creamy, add the sugar and cardamom powder. Add the raisins, rosewater and saffron mixture; mix well. QPour into earthen bowls (shakoras) or silver bowls. Serve sprinkled with slivered almonds and pistachios. Q PER SERVING 236.63 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 42.49g, fat 5.66g, sat fat 3g, fibre 0.5g, salt none

JULY 2013

eat in entertaining

Juicy cherries bring a summertime spirit to desserts. Make the most of them with our showstoppers

Recipe JANE HORNBY Photograph MYLES NEW Styling LISA HARRISON Food styling JANE HORNBY

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Upside-down cherry torte (recipe overleaf)

Serves 10 Q1 hour 20 minutes Q EASY unsalted butter 200g + extra for greasing, softened (try President available at gourmet stores) raspberry or apricot jam 2 heaped tbsp (try Bonne Maman available at gourmet stores) cherries 500g (pitted weight) golden caster sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) orange 1, zested almonds 100g, ground self-raising flour 150g salt 1/2 tsp vanilla essence 1 tsp Greek yoghurt 100g + extra to serve (try Himalya Fresh available at gourmet stores) eggs 4 large QHeat the oven to 160°C. Butter a 23cm round springform tin and line the base with baking parchment. Spread most of the jam over the bottom of the tin and then add the cherries in an even layer. QPut the butter into a mixing bowl, add the remaining ingredients and use an electric beater to mix everything to a smooth, thick cake-like batter. Do not overbeat once it’s come together. QSpoon the batter evenly over the cherries, level the top, then put into the oven, making sure there’s a tray

underneath on the shelf below as the cherries can drip a little. Bake for about 1 hour, or until golden and risen and a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the middle of the cake (if not, give it another 10 minutes). Cool in the tin for at least 30 minutes, then unclip and turn upright onto a cake plate. QWarm the remaining jam and brush it over the top of the fruit. Serve slightly warm, with dollops of Greek yoghurt, if you like. QPER SERVING 422 kcals, protein 7.5g, carbs 42.8g, fat 25.8g, sat fat 12.1g, fibre 1.2g, salt 0.51g

Merry cherry fizz Serves 6 Q5 minutes Q EASY cherry brandy liqueur 50ml kirsch 50ml amaretto 50ml vodka 100ml grape juice 500ml soda 250ml cherries 12 QPour the cherry brandy liqueur, kirsch, amaretto and vodka into a jug or cocktail shaker and mix well. Divide between 6 tall glasses and top up with grape juice and soda. Add 2 cherries to each glass and serve. QPER SERVING 328 kcals, protein none, carbs 19g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre none, sugar 19g, salt none

Photograph PHILLIP WEBB Styling JO HARRIS Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

Upside-down cherry torte

Recipe JOHN TORRODE Photograph GARETH MORGANS Styling CYNTHIA INIONS Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE

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Cherry pie and vanilla cream (recipe overleaf)

juice and then stir back into the juice in the pan. Bring the juice to a simmer and cook until it thickens. Cool. Put the fruit in the pie base and pour over the thickened juice. QRoll out the rest of the pastry, cut a circle big enough to cover the pie, crimping the edges to seal. Brush with milk and scatter with sugar. Cut two slits in the top. QPut on a baking tray and bake for about 25 minutes. Softly whip the cream with the vanilla extract and serve with the pie. QPER SERVING 585 kcals, protein 4.9g, carbs 60.2g, fat 37.8g, sat fat 18.1g, fibre 1.7g, salt 0.67g

Cherries in rosé wine and vanilla syrup Serves 4 Q1 hour Q EASY rosé wine 425ml vanilla pod 1, split lengthways demerara sugar 100g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) cherries 500g

Serves 8 Q1 1/2 hours Q A LITTLE EFFORT flour 450g, sifted butter 300g, chilled and cubed icing sugar 50g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) cherries 700g, pitted apples 2, peeled, cored and chopped vanilla sugar 100g (or use normal sugar mixed with a drop of vanilla extract) cornflour 1 tbsp whole milk 3 tbsp, for brushing golden caster sugar 1 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) double cream 300ml vanilla essence 1 tsp 78 BBC GoodFood

QFor the pie base, mix together the butter and flour by hand or in a food processor until it resembles rough crumbs. Add the sugar and knead into a dough. Wrap in cling-film and let it chill for 30 minutes. QHeat the oven to 200°C. Roll out half the pastry and line a dish about 23cm across and 4cm deep. Cover the pastry with baking parchment and baking beans and then bake for 15 minutes. Take out the paper and beans, and cook for 5 minutes. Cool. QMix the cherries with the apples and vanilla sugar in a baking dish and cover with foil. Bake at the same temperature for 20 minutes. Take out of the oven and drain off the juice into a saucepan. Cool the fruit. QMix the cornflour with 3 tbsp of the

Double cherry semifreddo Serves 8 Q35 minutes + freezing Q MODERATELY EASY cherries 1kg, pitted double cream 400ml (available at your local dairy) icing sugar 100g (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores) JULY 2013

Recipe MARY CADOGEN Photograph ROGER STOWELL

Cherry pie and vanilla cream

QTip the wine into a medium pan, then add the vanilla pod to the pan with the sugar. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the sugar has dissolved. QStone the cherries if you want, or leave them as they are. Add to the pan and cook gently for 6 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Increase the heat, then boil the liquid for about 8-10 minutes until slightly syrupy. Pour over the cherries and serve warm or cold in glass bowls. QPER SERVING 199 kcals, protein 1g, carbs 43g, fat none, sat fat none, fibre 1g, sugar 43g, salt 0.02g

eat in show off eggs 4, separated biscuit wafers to serve (optional)

Recipe JOHN TORRODE

QSet aside a handful (about 50g) of the pitted cherries. Place the remainder in a large pan set over a medium heat with the cream and 50g icing sugar. Bring to the boil, then gently simmer for 5 minutes until the cherries start to soften. Carefully whizz in a blender, then pass through a sieve. QPour a little of the hot cherry cream over the egg yolks, whisk well, then pour back into the pan. Cook for about 5 minutes more or until the mixture

has thickened a little and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Pour through a sieve into a bowl; cover the surface with cling-film and then leave to cool completely. QWhisk the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then whisk in the remaining 50g sugar, 1 tbsp at a time. Keep whisking until the mixture is stiff and resembles shaving foam. Stir a third of the mixture into the cooled cream, mix until it is well incorporated, then gently fold through the remaining mixture twice. QLine a loaf tin with cling-film. Pour

the mixture into the tin, then cover with cling-film and place in the freezer for about 3 hours until just starting to freeze. Stir the whole cherries into the semi-frozen mixture, then return to the freezer for at least 8 hours or preferably overnight. Serve cut into slices with some berries, or sandwiched between wafers. QPER SERVING 400 kcals, protein 5g, carbs 29g, fat 30g, sat fat 16g, fibre none, sugar 28g, salt 0.15g

Choc-cherry fudge torte with cherry sorbet Makes 10 slices Q1 hour 10 minutes + soaking Q A LITTLE EFFORT sour cherries 100g, dried brandy 5 tbsp flour 300g cocoa 85g + extra for dusting soft brown sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) baking powder and bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp each sunflower oil 150ml milk 350ml agave syrup or honey 150ml (try Sunny Bio available at gourmet stores) icing sugar for dusting (try Bluebird available at gourmet stores)

Cherry ripple ice cream Makes 1.3l Q45 minutes + freezing Q EASY cherries 300g, pitted and chopped golden caster sugar 3 tbsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) vanilla essence 1/2 tsp double cream 500ml (available at your local dairy) THE VANILLA CUSTARD vanilla pod 1 milk 250ml double cream 250ml egg yolks 5 golden caster sugar 120g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) QTo make the custard, split the vanilla pod in half and scrape the seeds out with a knife. Place the pods and seeds in a medium pan with the milk and cream. Bring to the boil slowly then take off the heat and leave to stand. 80 BBC GoodFood

QLightly whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar until pale and thick. Whisk in the vanilla-infused milk – fish the pod out first – then wipe the pan (to get rid of any milk that has caught on the base) and strain the custard mixture back in. Put it back on medium heat, stirring continuously until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Don’t let it overheat or boil or the egg will curdle. Set aside. QCook the cherries with the caster sugar until they begin to soften. Softly whip the vanilla custard and vanilla essence together. Pour the cream and custard mix into an ice cream maker and churn (or freeze in a container) until softly frozen – you’ll need to be able to stir the cherries through. Spoon into a large container and stir through the cherries to make a ripple effect. Freeze until needed. QPER SERVING 154 kcals, protein 1.1g, carbs 7.7g, fat 13.6g, sat fat 7.7g, fibre 0.1g, salt 0.04g

QFor the sorbet, whizz the jam with the sugar until smooth, then tip into a container. Freeze until solid. QMix the cherries and the brandy and leave to soak for a few hours. Heat the oven to 160°C. Line the base of a round, 20cm loose-bottomed tin with baking parchment. Mix the flour, cocoa, brown sugar, baking powder and soda bicarbonate in a big bowl. Whisk the oil, milk and agave syrup or honey, then add to the dry ingredients and stir in with a wooden spoon. Add the cherries and any brandy, then scrape into the tin. Bake for about 35-45 minutes until crisp on top but fudgy in the centre. Cool in the tin. QCarefully lift the torte onto a serving plate. Dust with cocoa and icing sugar, and serve with the cherry sorbet. QPER SERVING 582 kcals, protein 4g, carbs 101g, fat 18g, sat fat 3g, fibre 3g, sugar 71g, salt 0.7g

JULY 2013

Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph AMANDA HEYWOOD Styling ROSIN NIELD Food styling CATHERINE HILL

THE CHERRY SORBET cherry jam 2 jars, 600g each (try Bonne Maman available at gourmet stores) caster sugar 200g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores)

Recipe SARAH COOK Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling LUCY HARVEY Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

eat in show off

eat out Breakfasts on trial, plus Chez Nini's Poutine to try at home

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On trial

Breakfasts No meal matters more than breakfast. We size up the brekkie offerings of six eateries to figure which ones truly rise and shine

HOW WE DID IT Culinary binges are pardonable so long as you unleash at breakfast. The first meal of the day is the most significant – after all morning is the time you need to give your body a nutritional boost. In this selection you’ll find six eateries that have a dedicated breakfast menu or offer a selection of dishes and beverages that are most suited to breakfast. In keeping with the relaxed nature of the meal, we have picked cafés with a casual vibe rather than fullfledged restaurants.

7

MONKEY BAR, Bengaluru

With its unorthodox menu, unusual flavour combinations and relaxed décor, Monkey Bar created a new segment for the gastropub when it opened in the summer of 2012. Less than a year later, it raised the bar further by introducing a weekend breakfast that’s quite unlike anything else available in Bengaluru and, possibly, the country. In the mornings, Monkey Bar is still working up to its high-energy post-noon avatar: the music is muted, the much-coveted

84 BBC GoodFood

booths are actually available for walkins and, it may be my mistake, but even the excellent waitstaff team isn’t quite bouncing off the walls. The mellow mood is just what we need when we come in after a hard night, sunglasses hiding our bleary eyes.

QTHE SPREAD Expect the unexpected. That adage sums up executive chef and partner Manu Chandra’s menu very well. But some things work better than others. Over multiple visits, we have never been disappointed by any dish built around bread. Baked in-house, the muffins, the challah (plaited bread

of Jewish origin), the croissant, even the pita and the pav are stars in their own right though they usually play supporting roles to egg and meat. The classic Eggs Benedict – English muffins served with a slice of ham, poached eggs and generous lashings of the smoothest hollandaise – is always a winner, as is the Toast to France, a jazzed-up French toast using challah with notes of orange, cinnamon, honey and vanilla. The Pandi & Pita – a shredded pork curry with undertones of kachumpuli, served quirkily with Middle Eastern bread – hits the spot as well. The monster-sized croissant redefines decadent; one bite and you expect to have butter running down your chin. Excellent by itself or topped with the house marmalade and jam. The ambitious ‘Morning Quickie’ section, though, is a bit of a hit-andmiss affair. Even if you’re feeling adventurous, a couple of the dishes really have no place at breakfast: the Tikki of Joy (bekti cutlets served with kasundi) and the Pickled Beef, in fact, are lifts from the regular menu. One or two other dishes leave us underwhelmed. The handvo, a Gujarati veg-and-lentil pancake, lacks the oomph a domestic staple needs for a place on a professional menu. The Rujak, a sweet-and-sour salad of fried

Left: Monkey Bar’s warm interiors are replete with spacious benches, eclectic artefacts and retro-pop posters; Facing page: Monkey Bar’s traditional English breakfast is fit for a king

JULY 2013

eat out restaurant spy

prawns, tofu, sprouts and pineapple, is too undistinguished in terms of taste to work. The biggest gripe is the dearth of vegetarian choices and options for non-red meat eaters.

7

CAFÉ TERRA, Bengaluru

From the outside, Café Terra isn’t much to look at. A handful of tables are arranged in a small first floor room, adjoining which is the kitchen. Despite the limited space, efforts have been made to make it cosy and warm. The side that faces the road is glass lined, giving the café an airy feel. The tables lining this wall are ideal to watch life go by. Another wall has shelves filled with comics, magazines and books so solitary diners don’t feel the lack of company. The café has only a couple of waitstaff, who are helpful but a little reticent. It gets crowded during the weekends at breakfast time, but since breakfast is served all day along with a regular lunch and dinner menu, there’s a constant flow of diner traffic.

QBESTSELLERS Eggs Benedict, Lord Cubbon’s Vice (the traditional English breakfast), Kheema Bao, Red Velvet Pancakes, Eggs in a Blanket, Akuri, Toast to France, French Press coffee

QPROVENANCE Everything is locally sourced, except the maple syrup, which is imported from the US.

QWHAT TO DRINK The fruit juices are fresh but exorbitantly priced. The French Press coffee is uneven, excellent on some days and unimpressive on others. Of the four cocktails, the Bloody Monkey – a take on the Bloody Mary, with a choice of vodka, gin or rum – is certain to revive the party animal after the wildest Friday night. The classic cocktail also features in the signature Bloody Breakfast, served with skewers of baconwrapped sausages, mushrooms, chicken and potato skins.

QINSIDER TIP Ask nicely and they can customise your order to a certain extent, as in add or subtract an ingredient.

QDETAILS 14/1 Krishna Manere, Ashok Nagar, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 4111 6878. Timings: Weekends 9 am – 12 pm. Breakfast dishes ` 155 onwards; drinks ` 70 onwards. 86 BBC GoodFood

QTHE SPREAD

Quality: 9/10 Choice: 7/10 Provenance: 9.5/10 Atmosphere: 8.5/10 Value: 7.5/10 Total: 41.5/50 — Sumana Mukherjee

Café Terra is known for its continental breakfast but on the face of it, the menu is not too impressive. It offers three breakfast combos (Belgian, English and Ham basket), nine kinds of omelettes, four kinds of crêpes and an assortment of sides. Unfortunately, pure vegetarians get the short shrift: there’s nothing of substance for them except for beans on toast and a couple of sandwiches. The Belgian breakfast with waffles, muffin or cake and grilled potatoes is a fantasy for those with a sweet tooth. Soft, fluffy, golden brown and dusted with sugar powder, the

waffle is substantial and delicious accompanied with either maple or chocolate syrup. A slice of warm Banana and Walnut Cake adds to the sugar high. However, the two pieces of grilled potato are greasy and soggy and strike a discordant note that resonates in the other dishes that they are served with. The Spinach and Tomato Omelette is sure to get Popeye’s nod; it is full of spinach and still manages to be spongy and light. Although it benefits from the goodness of veggies, the Spinach, Tomato, Corn & Garlic Frittata is severely under-seasoned and no amount of salt and pepper can elevate it beyond the ordinary. A side order of Sausages with Sautéed Onions is executed well; the chicken sausages are crisp on the outside and juicy within while the caramelised onion slivers add a nice texture to the dish. The Tomato, Cheese and Basil Grilled Sandwich, one of the few pure vegetarian choices on the menu, is not remarkable.

QBESTSELLERS Belgian breakfast, Garden Omelette, Spinach and Tomato Omelette

QPROVENANCE The restaurant works with very basic and simple ingredients, all of which are procured locally.

QWHAT TO DRINK The choice extends to a couple of canned juices, a handful of coffees, iced tea, a banana yoghurt smoothie and a few coolers. Of the coffees, the cappuccino is refreshing and ticks all the boxes though the quantity is a bit JULY 2013

Photographs DIPTI DESAI

eat out restaurant spy

overwhelming. The iced tea with a hint of lemon is delicious and apt for a hot morning. The smoothie has a mushy texture and leaves a bitter aftertaste. But the Strawberry Slush is a crowd pleaser that would work better later in the day.

QINSIDER TIP Though the menu lists only crêpes, guests can also ask for pancakes with their choice of accompaniments.

QDETAILS V3 Trinity, 1020 1st Floor, 80 ft Road, 1st Block, Koramangala, Bengaluru. Tel: +91 80 4131 3553. Timings: Daily 8 am – 10 pm. Breakfast dishes ` 70 onwards; breakfast combos ` 100 onwards; drinks ` 45 onwards.

Quality: 6/10 Choice: 5/10 Provenance: 6/10 Atmosphere: 5/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 30/50

Clockwise from facing page: Monkey Bar’s Toast to France is made of pan-fried challah; Café Terra’s spacious interiors; Pasta Arrabiata; Belgian crêpes with banana and chocolate sauce make for a sumptuous breakfast; Waffles accompanied with chocolate syrup at Café Terra

— Anita Rao-Kashi

JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 87

7

Salt Water Café’s sumptuous Spanish omelette Cereal with fruit is perfect for fitness fiends

SALT WATER CAFÉ, Mumbai

QBESTSELLERS

If we were to include Bandra’s Salt Water Café in a word association game, chorizo, eggs, sangria, John Dory and Swine Dining are likely to emerge as the top contenders. Though breakfast wasn’t always the draw at this all-day restaurant, their current spread of breakfast sandwiches, gourmet egg dishes, pancakes, waffles and fresh juices has cultivated a sizeable fan following. Located on an arterial road, the café’s large glass windows allow plenty of sunlight to stream in and offer an uninterrupted view of the street. Though Spartan, the predominantly wooden décor is edgy in design and aesthetic too.

QPROVENANCE

QTHE SPREAD

A range of goodies up for grabs at the deli counter

88 BBC GoodFood

With brekkie mainstays and a few meaty and gourmet twists to perk up egg classics, the strength of Salt Water Café’s offerings lies in the attention to detail. Whether it is the seriously addictive whipped butter that accompanies each dish, the tomato jam that comes with scrambled eggs or the roasted tomato with crispy green breadcrumbs that is a side to our eggs, these little touches offer a clever play on flavours and textural contrast. Our Cured Chorizo with two eggs sunny-side-up is cooked perfectly with comfortingly runny egg yolks and whites studded with crisp fried cubes of chorizo and potatoes. But given the café’s affinity for chorizo, we’re a bit disappointed with their frugality. We have no complaints from our next order. The Eggs Benedict has pillowy poached eggs sitting comfortably on an English muffin topped with thin slices of ham. The revelation in this otherwise classic dish is the brown butter béarnaise sauce served in place of the classic hollandaise, which adds a nutty punch to the dish. Similarly uplifting are the Assorted Berry Pancakes redolent with plump blueberries and raspberries. The pancakes aren’t as fluffy as we’d like but smeared with maple syrup and some more of that delicious whipped butter, they hit our sweet spot perfectly.

Waffles, Assorted Berry Pancakes, Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine, croissants and muffins Most of the produce used in the café’s breakfast selection is sourced locally, except for the cheeses and cold cuts, which are imported.

QWHAT TO DRINK Unlike most establishments that tend to have a stepmotherly approach to their non-alcoholic beverage selection, the menu here is well curated and borrows inspiration from Mocha’s extensive range of teas and coffees. Our Monsoon Malabar Coffee is a smooth brew and has a unique mellowness. This is attributed to the monsoon winds of the Malabar Coast, which cause the beans to lose their inherent acidity. Served in a French press with biscotti to dunk into the coffee, we aren’t too pleased with the coffee grounds that repeatedly make their way into our cup. Pick their muffins over the doughy croissants to go with the coffee. From their noteworthy fresh juice selection, we pick the uber healthy Apple, Grape, Coriander and Arugula juice. The sweet fruit juice has a peppery undertone to it and is elevated by just a hint of coriander at the end.

QINSIDER TIP Since the service at Salt Water Café tends to crack under pressure, it’s best to avoid hunger pangs by getting an early start and avoiding the 11 am brunch crowd.

QDETAILS Rose Minar Annexe, Chapel Road, Bandra (West), Mumbai. Tel: +91 22 26434441. Breakfast timings: Daily 9 am — 11.59 am. Egg dishes ` 160 onwards, breakfast sandwiches ` 190 onwards, fresh fruit juices ` 165 onwards.

Quality: 7/10 Choice: 9/10 Provenance: 7/10 Atmosphere: 9/10 Value: 8/10 Total: 40/50 — Kainaz Contractor JULY 2013

eat out restaurant spy

7

LLOYDS TEA HOUSE, Chennai

Reflecting not just the name of the bustling Chennai street that it is nestled into but also its British-influenced aesthetics, Lloyds Tea House is a cosy and quaint new eatery that oozes old world charm.Your senses are soothed soon after you enter by the pastel blue walls and contrasting dark tea boxes lining them. Coupled with vintage map print upholstery and antique suitcases that double as shelves, this café that specialises in teas from around the world makes you yearn for a perfect cuppa and a sumptuous English breakfast. Luckily for us, Lloyds Tea House takes its chai very seriously. The menu boasts 63 aromatic varieties of tea that arrive at your table in an innovative automatic decanter together with delightful mini hourglass timers to ensure that your tea is brewed to perfection. In addition to all day breakfast specials, an array of appetisers and toasties, the café also serves salads, pasta, pizzas and sandwiches.

Photographs SUMANTH KUMAR

QTHE SPREAD The classic Eggs Benedict is the king of a wholesome breakfast – this rich and flavoursome dish consists of perfectly poached eggs and warm, cooked ham served on top of an English muffin, smothered in a creamy hollandaise sauce. The key to its success lies in the sauce, which should harmonise and balance the rest of the ingredients while also cutting through the richness of the ham. While this is where most restaurants crumble, Lloyds’ homemade hollandaise is truly delicious with the emulsion of hot butter and egg yolks complementing the flavour of the ham. The subtle lemon notes in the sauce distinguish it from run-of-the-mill variants. However, the English muffin is replaced with crunchier bread. Although it pairs well with the sunny egg yolk and the creamy hollandaise, the bread is initially hard to cut into. Without ham but with the addition of JULY 2013

creamy spinach, the Eggs Florentine is equally delicious.You can’t go wrong with either option at this Victorian tea house.

Eggs Benedict

QBESTSELLERS American Breakfast served with Chilli Herb Bread, Rosti Platter, Franconian Peppermint Tea

QPROVENANCE Given the quality of the meat served, it comes as a bit of a surprise that the restaurant sources most of its produce locally with some cuts brought in from Bengaluru. However, the teas are sourced from different parts of the world including China, Japan, South Africa and Sri Lanka.

Cottage cheese toasties with barbecue sauce

QWHAT TO DRINK This can be the most daunting part of your meal given that you are so spoilt for choice. Green, white, black and Oolong teas, herbal infusions and fruit mélanges are just a few of the varieties on offer. If you were to pick just one, try the Lloyds Tea House blend, which is a fine fusion of Nilgiri, Darjeeling and Assam tea, that gives it a copper tone and strong flavour. The Lemongrass Tea and the fruity Zen Garden Tea are also extremely refreshing, with the latter served both hot and cold.

QINSIDER TIP A must-try dish that isn’t on the breakfast menu is the Rosti Platter. It consists of crisp, gratinated hash browns accompanied by vegetables in a creamy béchamel sauce, topped with mozzarella and cheddar cheese. This is the perfect bite-sized indulgence and a great option for vegetarians.

QDETAILS

Old world charm at Lloyds Tea House

179, Lloyds Road, Gopalpuram, Chennai. Tel: +91 44 4552 4231. Daily 11 am – 11 pm. Breakfast dishes ` 150 onwards; breakfast combos ` 200; drinks ` 40 onwards.

Quality: 8/10 Choice: 7.5/10 Provenance: 6/10 Atmosphere: 9/10 Value: 9/10 Total: 39.5/50 — Suhail Chandhok BBC GoodFood 89

We could have also done with more cheese and hollandaise. The Maple Marvels pancakes — a stack of three fluffy pancakes made with buttermilk and served with generous lashings of maple syrup, a dollop of delicious maple butter and cinnamon sprinkled on top — are not only delectable but also generous enough to serve two. The Classic Breakfast Crêpes come stuffed with bacon, gruyère cheese, caramelised onions and freshly diced tomatoes, with two poached eggs on top. This dish is also executed perfectly — the crêpes are light and the freshness of the tomatoes balances out the grease of the bacon.

QBESTSELLERS California Benedict, Eggspectation Waffle with Chocolate

QPROVENANCE Cheese and maple syrup are imported while the bread and sauces are made in house.

QWHAT TO DRINK Opt for the coffee, available in a variety of styles, over the mocktail and juices. Many of the juices used in the coolers are canned. Our Mint Cooler is said to have fresh melon and mint mixed in with thin yoghurt. The drink, loaded with mint, is cooling for the summer but we can’t detect any melon flavour.

QINSIDER TIP

7EGGSPECTATION, New Delhi In a city that sorely lacks quality breakfast options, Eggspectation is a welcome exception. This is one of the few places in Delhi where you can get a real Eggs Benedict or pancakes with authentic maple syrup. Part of a Canadian chain that started in the 1990s in Montreal and has outlets in the US and Canada, the restaurant, as the name suggests, specialises in egg-y dishes, including an interesting Parsi-style akuri. Since it also serves as the coffee shop for the three Jaypee hotels in the NCR, coffee shop staples 90 BBC GoodFood

Clockwise from top: Eggspectation’s salmon crostini is an unconventional breakfast option; The restaurant’s spacious iteriors; Crêpes feature regularly on the breakfast buffet

have been added to cater to a diverse audience. The restaurant is spacious. It is a good idea to choose a quiet table by the window. Skip the usual buffet spread and order from the à la carte menu that features various egg preparations, waffles, pancakes and crêpes served all day. The service is quick, a definite plus when you are eating the first meal of the day.

QTHE BREAKFAST SPREAD The Eggs Benedict are a must-try in our opinion. We choose the ‘Country French’ variation of this classic, which has a layer of apples on toasted whole wheat bread, along with brie, a dash of hollandaise and poached eggs, in a portion that’s good enough for two people. The eggs are perfectly done though the bread is a tad over-toasted.

Most people mistake Eggspectation to be a regular café and don’t know about the breakfast specials on the à la carte menu. This menu is much more rewarding than the buffet spread and also available all day, while the buffet winds up by 10.30 am.

QDETAILS Jaypee Vasant Continental, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 26148800. Timings: 24 hours daily. Breakfast dishes ` 400 onwards; drinks ` 325 onwards.

Quality: 9/10 Choice: 9/10 Provenance: 7/10 Atmosphere: 8/10 Value: 7/10 Total: 40/50 — Anoothi Vishal JULY 2013

eat out restaurant spy

7

QPROVENANCE

THE ALL AMERICAN DINER, New Delhi

No organic ingredients are used. Almost everything, including the pork products, is procured locally. Some imported vegetables are sourced from local suppliers.

QWHAT TO DRINK Part of the artsy India Habitat Centre, the All American Diner is located adjacent to a lush lawn and offers indoor as well as al fresco seating. From the black and white chequered floor and booth-style seating to the memorabilia adorning the walls and the casual, friendly service, the restaurant is reminiscent of an old fashioned American diner. It opened in 2002, when breakfast fare like pancakes and waffles were either not available in Delhi or limited to coffee shops at five star hotels. Steering clear of fancier options like Eggs Benedict and Florentine, The All American Diner continues to serve what it does best — pancakes, scrambled eggs and omelettes.

The choice includes malts and shakes, tea and coffee, and an extensive list of alcoholic drinks. The Healthy Start in a Glass smoothie has more fruit than yoghurt and hence tastes more like juice than like a mixed fruit smoothie. The Chocolate Milk Shake is a thick blend of ice cream and milk, but it can do with more chocolate. The Cold Coffee is just right — non-creamy, strong and perfectly sweet.

Photographs SAURABH SISODIA

QTHE BREAKFAST SPREAD We start our breakfast binge with a banana and walnut muffin. We can’t taste the banana in the muffin but it is warm and light with just the right crunch from the walnuts. While most of the breakfast selection includes eggs in one form or another, vegetarians have ample choice too. The spicy cheese toast has little triangles of white bread topped with molten cheese mixed with finely chopped jalapeños and bell peppers. Served with potato crisps, this dish is delicious any time of the day. Try the mushrooms on toast if you’re looking for something non-cheesy. Two unbuttered slices of wholewheat toast are topped with a generous helping of mushrooms in a flavourful mushroom sauce. They are served with a crisp and non-greasy hash brown. The popular Sunrise Skillet comprises two pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon and sausages. The scrambled eggs are done perfectly. When we request for the bacon to be made crispier, it is done promptly. JULY 2013

QINSIDER TIP

Clockwise from top: Sunrise Skillet with pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon and sausages; The Ultimate Omelette is a popular dish; The restaurant is designed like an old-style American diner

However the accompanying pork sausages are disappointingly bland. The Ultimate Omelette, made with three egg whites upon request, is fluffy and stuffed with a huge helping of sautéed chicken (or pork) sausages, onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, cheese and ham. Served with two slices of toast, it is very tasty. The Belgian Waffle Combo we try last comes with two waffles; a single fried egg, a hash brown and grilled tomato with cheese. While the waffles are crisp, the batter can be a little lighter to make them fluffier.

QBESTSELLERS Sunrise Skillet, The Ultimate Omelette, Make Your Own Omelette, pancakes

Go for the Gluttons on the Table offer. Valid daily from 7 am to 11 am, this unlimited offer lets you order anything from the breakfast menu for ` 525 per person.

QDETAILS India Habitat Centre, Lodhi Road, New Delhi. Tel: +91 11 4366 3162. Timings: Daily 7am — midnight. Breads ` 75 onwards; cereal ` 110 onwards; sides ` 80 onwards; desserts ` 115 onwards.

Quality:  7/10 Choice:  7/10 Provenance: 7/10 Atmosphere: 8/10 Value: 7/10 Total: 36/50 — Shibani Bawa BBC GoodFood 91

vs Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about a restaurant as a food pro who might be recognised and get special treatment? Good Food reader Jaya Chaturvedi and food writer Karen Anand have their own takes on The Flying Elephant in Chennai THE RESTAURANT

THE PRO

Karen Anand is a Pune-based food writer, entrepreneur and consultant. She recently organised the Indian chapter of the international Taste festival in Mumbai.

THE FLYING ELEPHANT The Flying Elephant at Park Hyatt is an opulent fine dining restaurant offering inventive Turkish, Southeast Asian and Indian fare. It is spread over seven levels including a private lounge area, a vibrant al fresco dining space and six interactive kitchens. The menu features delicacies such as Chilean sea bass, a range of Turkish grills, Chicken Satay with Peanut and Chilli Sauce, Chestnut Tagliatelle, pavlovas and an eclectic list of Prohibition-era cocktails. QThe Flying Elephant, Park Hyatt Chennai, 39, Velachery Road, Near Raj Bhavan, Chennai. Tel: +91 44 71771234. Daily 7 pm onwards. Average spend for two: ` 3,000. Pushy table turning? No Regular water offered? Yes Veggie options? Plenty to choose from

92 BBC GoodFood

THE PUNTER

Jaya Chaturvedi is a Chennai-based banker who eats out regularly and keeps tab of trends in food and dining.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

THE SERVICE

Much has been written about The Flying Elephant since its launch in March this year. Given the whacky name, the press blitz and Hyatt’s reputation for great food, my expectations are high. But The Flying Elephant is quite different. Boasting six interactive kitchens and a culinary theatre, it resembles Studio 54 in New York: a multistoried vision in glass with seating, bars and open kitchens on all floors and staff that belt out the chorus of a popular song. It’s a happening place that could well be in NYC — something I least expect to find in Chennai. It is calculated carelessness in an orchestrated five-star sort of way, and it works.

As expected, the service is efficient with wellinformed managers on hand and chefs happy to step out of their designated areas to help you navigate through the food menu and speakeasy-inspired cocktail menu.

The restaurant, located at the lobby level of the Park Hyatt, is exquisitely designed. Spanning multiple levels, the lowermost one is a lounge area while the rest exudes a very casual vibe. The outdoor seating is lovely but tends to get a bit warm during the Chennai summer. The tables in the lounge remind me of a warm and cosy English bar, but the DJ belting out club tracks is a bit of a damp squib and the soundtrack does not complement the otherwise charming ambience at all.

The service is a tad lacklustre, though the staff is extremely courteous. There is a need for more efficiency — it takes me quite a few minutes to catch a server’s eye for something as simple as a refill of ice and we are left to fend for ourselves in the interim. The service doesn’t keep pace with the pleasant ambience and doesn’t justify the money that one has to shell out for a meal.

JULY 2013

eat out restaurant reviews

Pane Pa n er tik kka k

Mu uss ssel els s wi with t whi h te te win ine, ine e, chi h ll llii, fe enne el, garlic and parrsl sley ey y

Signature chocolate cake

THE FOOD

THE VERDICT

THE BILL

This is really where The Flying Elephant reigns supreme. If you can get past the theatrics of the vertical dining, the blanket of glass and staff singing away, the food is outstanding. There are tasting menus for the uninitiated. The menu itself is simple enough — appetisers, soups, vegetarian main courses, shellfish, pizza, poultry and so on. I share the Peruvian Green Asparagus with Truffle Salsa and Parmigiano Reggiano shavings. Priced close to ` 1,000, it isn’t cheap but is perfectly executed: thick batons of juicy green asparagus are lightly grilled and the truffle salsa isn’t overpowering. We also try the Pan Fried Calamari with Chorizo, Artichokes and Bell Peppers. It reminds me of southern Spanish tapas. The raw artichokes are thinly sliced, lightly grilled and drizzled with a little olive oil. The quality is superb and the simplicity, stunning. For mains, I have the Pan Fried Chilean Sea Bass with Fresh Fennel and a Lemon Sabayon, which tastes like a light hollandaise emulsion. The portion is large for such an expensive fish but is so delicious and so perfectly cooked that I actually manage to finish it! No room for sides, cereals or any dessert. Instead, I treat myself to another cocktail. The Fallen Angel, with champagne, elderflower liqueur and lychee is a winner. I then try Happily Ever After, a long drink with crushed grapes, Chardonnay and Absolut vodka.

The food is outstanding and the ambience is highly charged and especially exciting on a Saturday night. However, the food is not the lone star here — the overall ‘happening’ vibe shines as well.

Anand’s meal for two including two cocktails, appetisers and a main course was ` 4,000 excluding taxes.

The restaurant serves Indian, Mediterranean and European cuisine. We Dining at The Flying order the Warm Mezze Platter that includes stuffed phyllo, zucchini fritters, Elephant doesn’t live falafels, dips and pita bread. The falafels are crisp and make for an excellent up to my expectations. accompaniment to the pita bread. The zucchini fritters are my pick from this While the ambience platter, which has great flavours but is not innovative enough. For mains, my is excellent and the companion orders Chicken Biryani that is very sportingly prepared by the food is reasonably chef, even though it is not listed on the menu. It is flavourful and perfectly good, the service is spiced. We also order the Paneer with Spinach and Pistachio in a Roasted average. The menu Onion Gravy, which is creamy and delicious. The fresh flavour of the spinach largely leans towards is complemented by the earthiness of the pistachios and the richness of the European cuisine, and onion gravy. The Dal Makhani is creamy but needs more spice. The dessert, offers more variety however, is flawless. The Tiramisu is perfect, with the coffee and mascarpone to a non-vegetarian in perfect harmony. Overall, the food appears appetising and tastes good too, than a vegetarian. The but is slightly bland for those who club music is Want to review a restaurant? have a preference for spicy fare. definitely a For a chance to become Good Food’s Though the flavours are perfect, mood killer. next punter, email a 200-word review no dish grabs my attention and the of any restaurant you’ve visited, waitstaff are not forthcoming with with the heading ‘Pro vs Punter’, to [email protected] with your suggestions either.

FOOD: 9/10 ATMOSPHERE: 8/10 SERVICE: 8/10 TOTAL: 25/30 GO AGAIN? For sure!

Chaturvedi’s meal for two including an appetiser, two mains and a dessert was ` 3,000 excluding taxes.

FOOD: 6/10 ATMOSPHERE: 9/10 SERVICE: 6/10 TOTAL: 21/30 GO AGAIN? Not really. It is too expensive, the food is average and the service slow.

contact details. You could be the lucky one! JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 93

Classic Andhra meals

The National Lodge A part of Chennai’s cityscape for over 60 years, National Lodge enjoys a shrine-like status among seekers of home-style vegetarian Andhra cuisine Words ASHWIN RAJAGOPALAN Photographs VINAY ARAVIND

Patrons line up for National Lodge’s authentic Andhra fare

94 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

eat out off the eaten track

I

t’s almost impossible to confine SN Deepak to his tiny cabin for more than 15 minutes. That’s about the same time his waitstaff take to finish serving a five-course meal and get the next diner in front of a fresh green banana leaf. It’s been exactly 61 years since Deepak’s maternal grandfather, Kota Ethirajulu set up National Lodge in Chennai. Today, it continues to be a refuge for both locals as well as visitors from Andhra Pradesh seeking an authentic, home-style vegetarian Andhra banana leaf meal. Having been a part of Chennai’s cityscape for so long, National Lodge has been witness to the city’s evolution. When it opened in 1952, the state of Andhra Pradesh hadn’t yet been carved out of the Madras Presidency. In north Madras, thanks to proximity to the present day Andhra border, Tamil and Telugu identities merged seamlessly. To this day, the city’s unique brand of ‘Madras Tamil’ is generously flecked with Telugu words. This was a time when a community called the Komti Chettys ruled the roost in the city’s trading and financial circles. Although this enterprising community shares its name with another trading community from Tamil Nadu – the wealthy Chettiars – the similarity ends there. The Chettiars trace their roots to southern Tamil Nadu and their cuisine is best known

where the British Empire in India took wings. Although it is no longer a retail hub, it continues to be the trading and wholesale focal point of the city. The area hasn’t changed in decades – it’s almost impossible to find a parking spot anywhere and even more difficult to tread these historical streets on foot.Yet, its obscure location amidst electrical stores that cram the narrow Govindappa Naicken Street in George Town doesn’t deter people from all corners of Andhra Pradesh from making the trip to National Lodge. Although the lodge has 35 non airconditioned rooms targeted primarily at businessmen and traders, the mainstay of the enterprise is clearly the boarding. While the ‘full meals’ cost 4 annas (or 25 paise) back in 1952, you can now buy the same meal for ` 70 or ` 95, depending whether you choose to sit in the non air-conditioned or the air-conditioned dining area. Until his demise in 1994, Kota Ethirajulu ran the business in his hands-on style. The baton was then passed directly to his grandsons Deepak and Dwarak. “We haven’t changed anything and run the place just like our grandfather did. The basic formula continues to be our grandmother’s recipes and that’s what brings diners back” says Deepak. The restaurant’s layout is a maze just like the streets that make up George Town. There are a total of 84

“Even with just over 80 seats, National Lodge manages to clock more than a 1000 meals per day. The restaurant’s traditional base has also grown to include staunchly vegetarian Marwari businessmen” for its meaty delicacies while the Komti Chettys are avowed vegetarians who hail from modern Andhra Pradesh. Most of the streets in George Town, where National Lodge is located, take their names from illustrious members of the Komti Chetty community. From textiles to steel, each street has its special niche. George Town is located close to Fort St George, which is JULY 2013

The restaurant occupies pride of place in Chennai’s George Town area

The accompaniments change daily

The sambar also varies according to the day of the week

Brothers Dwarak and Deepak run the show

seats spread out in a haphazard manner across floors. So if you are looking at bonding with your companion over lunch, this is clearly not the place. The service sequence is more action-packed than a Telugu or Tamil potboiler.Your banana leaf will be full even before you roll up your sleeves. Like quite a few banana leaf meals in south India, this one also starts on a sweet note. There’s BBC GoodFood 95

eat out off the eaten track

Keeping tabs on the thriving daily business

WHAT WE LIKE The gunpowder is truly special and assumes an even more piquant flavour once blended with the tamarind chutney and decadent homemade ghee. The restaurant also sells this signature gunpowder in sealed packets. These serve as excellent reminders of your meal.

96 BBC GoodFood

The spicy gunpowder is a house special

a traditional sweet dish on the menu everyday – usually a sweet pongal (a rice dish made with milk and jaggery) or rava kesari (semolina pudding). Deepak is convinced it was his grandfather who coined the term ‘gunpowder’ to describe Andhra’s most popular food item. A ubiquitous dish on every Andhra thali, the spicy lentil powder mixed with rice is usually the first course. At National Lodge, the customary gunpowder gets an interesting tweak. Deepak and Dwarak egg on the uninitiated to mix the rice, ghee and gunpowder with a chintakaya or raw tamarind chutney and pair the mixed rice with crunchy raw onions. The base for this tangy tamarind chutney is made every November and stored in large vats in the restaurant’s dim storage area. The traditional avakkai or spicy, Andhra-style mango pickle is also mass produced in May. Each meal has five accompaniments – a stir-fried vegetable preparation called the thalimpu; a deep-fried appalam or papad; a pappu or dal; chutney and a raita. These accompaniments are rotated according to a daily schedule that regulars keep track of. The sambar of the day is

An array of chutneys add flavour to the meal

dynamic as well. One of the bi-weekly specials is the vada sambar that keeps the loyalists coming back for more. The sambar is the first of five courses that include a rasam, challa chaaru (or spiced buttermilk) and a guddilu pulusu (or a spicy vegetable gravy). The last course is reserved for palate cleansing curd rice paired with a fiery stuffed and fried chilli, christened an ‘atom bomb’ by the restaurant’s founder. Even with just over 80 seats, National Lodge manages to comfortably clock more than a 1,000 meals every single day. The service team has the onerous task of turning around tables in record speed without compromising on the warmth that diners have come to expect here. The restaurant’s traditional base has grown beyond just Telugu-speaking diners to include most of the area’s staunchly vegetarian Marwari businessmen. It’s almost impossible to find a seat here on a Saturday — most of the markets in the area work on credit and cash payments are typically made on Saturdays. But the teeming crowds haven’t tempted the owners to get ambitious with the pricing. “We always want to appeal to our loyal audience

and will continue to operate on thin margins,” asserts Dwarak. It’s this philosophy of contentment that has deterred the brothers from expanding or franchising the brand. A smaller, satellite outlet with 44 seats opened on Mount Road, Chennai’s most famous arterial road, about 10 years ago and that’s as far as the brothers want to go. However, since that branch doesn’t have a kitchen, all the dishes are transported from George Town. Both Dwarak and Deepak spend an intense four hours at the restaurant during lunch and one of them returns for a quick visit at dinner. The dine-in option is not available on Sundays but it’s not unusual to find serpentine queues outside the restaurant around lunchtime for a ‘meal parcel’. National Lodge also sells packed meals that feed close to 1,500 people every Sunday. It’s clear that this Chennai institution is showing no signs of slowing down. Thanks to its flavourpacked food, the legacy of the Komti Chetty community continues to stay alive in the city. Address: 235, Govindappa Naicken Street, George Town, Chennai. Tel: +91 44 2536 9397. JULY 2013

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eat out restaurant recipe Helmed by chef-proprietor Nira Singh, the elegant Chez Nini is a brasserie offering French-Canadian cuisine. Located in Delhi’s Meherchand Market, a humungous, glowing metal tree takes centre stage at this charming restaurant, which exudes a casual, laidback vibe. The menu showcases authentic, flavourful dishes like French onion soup, a hearty Coq au Vin prepared using the sous vide method, Duck Confit, scrumptious meatloaves, crispy croquettes and a range of cold cuts, artisanal breads and petit gateaux.

Signature dish

Chez Nini Poutine Serves 4 Q1 hour 40 minutes + overnight freezing Q MODERATELY EASY THE FRENCH FRIES potatoes 2 large sunflower oil 3l THE FIVE SPICE MIX (grind these together in a spice grinder) coriander seeds 1 tsp, toasted black peppercorn 1 tsp coarse salt 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds 1 tsp, toasted cumin 1 tsp, toasted dried garlic cloves 1 tsp, chopped THE GRAVY butter 5 tbsp onions 10 medium white wine vinegar 2 tbsp vegetable stock onion powder 1 tsp salt to taste THE CHEESE CURD raw milk 1.8l lemon juice or white vinegar 1/4 cup kosher salt 1 tsp QTo make the fries, peel and cut the potatoes to about 1/4-inch wide chunks. Add them to salted water and bring to 98 BBC GoodFood

a boil. Bring down to a simmer and cook the fries through completely. QOnce they are cooked through, strain them and lay them onto a cloth-lined tray. Refrigerate overnight to dry. QThe next day fry the fries to a light brown colour, strain and lay out on a tray again. Freeze. Once cooled, they are ready to fry. Season with the spice mix. QFor the gravy, melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan and cook the onions until light golden brown in colour. Add the vinegar, heat until the liquid boils, lower the heat and simmer until the liquid has reduced by half. QAdd the stock, onion powder and salt, then lower heat to a simmer and reduce for about 10 minutes. Strain through a mesh strainer. QTo make the cheese curd, pour the milk into a saucepan. Heat on medium until almost scalded, but do not boil. Stir occasionally to ensure even heating. Remove from heat when a skin starts to form on the surface of the milk, or small bubbles form around the edge of the pan. Allow to cool for a couple of minutes. QAdd lemon juice or white vinegar. Stir gently but completely. Stop stirring and watch the hot milk separate into the curds and whey. Allow to cool further.

QLine the sieve with a few layers of cheesecloth. Pour the curds and whey through the sieve to catch the curds. Discard the whey. QUnwrap the curd. Add the salt to the curd and stir thoroughly. Fold the cheesecloth over the top of the salted curds with your hands. Enclose the curds tightly in the cheesecloth. Top the cheesecloth-wrapped bundle with a plate. Place a can (used as weight) on top of the plate. Place the bowl in the refrigerator and allow the curd to sit under the weight overnight. QRemove the curd from the cheesecloth. Pull gently into large pieces with your hands. You now have fresh cheese curds for the poutine. QBefore serving, pile the fries on a plate. Top with the cheese curds and then pour the gravy. JULY 2013

eat away Fabulous foodie destinations from around the world. Go on a food trip! IN THIS ISSUE 7Eat like a local: Vietnam, p 134 7Postcard from Singapore, p 140

Noodle soup is a way of life in Vietnam p 135

eat like a local

VIETNAM With its perfect balance of hot, sweet, spicy and sour elements, Vietnam’s stunning food is best enjoyed on its chaotic streets

Text, recipes and photographs adapted from VIETNAMESE STREET FOOD and KOTO: A CULINARY JOURNEY THROUGH VIETNAM by TRACEY LISTER and ANDREAS POHL Photographs by MICHAEL FOUNTOULAKIS Published by HARDIE GRANT BOOKS

I

t is often said that life in Vietnam happens on the streets. This is particularly true in the overcrowded inner cities, where it sometimes seems that the Vietnamese conduct their daily life, if not exclusively on the sidewalk, then in plain view of the streets. Eating on the street also plays an important part in daily life. The Vietnamese version of alfresco dining is such a natural extension of street life, so widespread and common, that it is easy to overlook how fairly recent the phenomenon of the so-called com bui, literally ‘dust meals’, really is. Traditionally, family meals at home were sacred, but historical upheavals and changes in work practices created an eating culture with roving food vendors and street stalls to feed the hungry masses away from their houses. The wars for national independence against the French and the Americans from 1945 to 1975 displaced scores of people. These changes revolutionised not only the way the country was run, but also the way the country ate. Kerbside dining fits Vietnam’s collectivist culture of doing things together. Eating alone is frowned upon. Even if one eats alone, one isn’t lonely, but connected to fellow diners and the surrounding community. The shift from eating at home or in more upmarket restaurants to casual kerbside dining also marks a transition

100 BBC GoodFood

from a feudal, class-ridden society to a more equal one — a new society where peasants and civil servants, students and shop owners can share a bench and slurp their noodle soups side by side. Pho bo or beef noodle soup is probably the closest the country has to a national dish. Said to have originated in the northern Nam Dinh province, it consists of rice noodles in a rich broth, topped with finely sliced beef, shallots, beansprouts, basil and a generous dollop of chilli sauce. Pho with chicken (pho ga) was initially considered a soup for women and children, and before 1945, only one stall in Hanoi made pho ga. Nowadays, the soup is a wellloved alternative to the heavy pho bo, particularly during summer. Although pho is originally a northern Vietnamese dish, it has been adopted by the south and the recipes changed in the process. Hot on the heels of pho is the bun cha – chargrilled pork patties floating in a tangy dipping sauce, served with cold vermicelli (bun) and an assortment of herbs and salad leaves. It is often served with nem ran, fried spring rolls, on a separate plate. While pho is traditionally a breakfast or early dinner, bun cha firmly occupies the lunchtime slot. The French left Vietnam in 1954, but they left behind an enduring love for fresh, crusty baguettes, banh mi. Here, baguettes are made from a wheat and rice flour mixture, which results in very airy bread that has a thin, crisp

MENU FOR 6 7Noodle soup with chicken 7Green mango salad 7Lemongrass tofu 7Caramel fish with galangal 7Fruit cups

Noodle soup with chicken KOTO: A Culinary Journey through Vietnam is available from flipkart.com for ` 2,006. Vietnamese Street Food is available from amazon.com for ` 1,120.

Serves 6 Q1 hour 10 minutes + simmering QEASY Pho ga was invented during the Japanese occupation in the 1940s when beef was very hard to come by, which is why this dish is sometimes considered the poor cousin of the more famous beef noodle soup, pho bo. This is a lighter, easier variation of pho. red Asian shallots 8 ginger, a 4cm knob, halved whole chicken 1.6kg salt 1 tsp cinnamon 1 stick star anise 4 sugar 2 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) noodles 300g, raw spring onions 3, sliced + 3, cut into strips JULY 2013

eat away Vietnam

Pho bo or beef noodle soup is loved by all

No oo od dle le soup oup wi witth chi hick ck ken n

Caramel fish with galangal

A local stall heaped with fresh artichokes

onion 1/2, thinly sliced coriander leaves a handful kaffir lime leaves 4, cut into thin strips lime 1, cut into wedges red chilli 1, finely sliced fish sauce to serve (try Ayam available at gourmet stores)

Groundnuts and other produce on sale crust and looks like an oversized, rectangular roll. The bread is peddled by roving street vendors carrying bamboo baskets covered with burlap sacks to keep the baguettes warm, or from street stalls. The banh mi is particularly popular in Ho Chi Minh City, where vendors cram them full of delicious fillings, ranging from a whole array of cold meats, to omelette and fish patties, all spiced with pickles, fish sauce and chilli. Rice features in virtually every Vietnamese meal. The grain is a true culinary all-rounder. It can be steamed, boiled or fried, turned into flour, paste, paper or noodles, and it can even be made into a powerful wine, ruou. Rice paper rolls form the basis of Vietnam’s most famous contribution to world cuisine: the spring roll. Much variation can be found in this seemingly simple dish in Vietnam. Hanoi’s cigar-shaped spring rolls are a hearty and filling affair, stuffed with a rich crab-and-pork mixture and fried until crispy. In Hue, spring rolls are served with a filling of sweet potatoes, wrapped in fresh rice paper, and topped with prawns. And in the south, where the food is sweet and tropical, spring rolls are filled with fish, pineapple and cucumber. Vietnamese street food culture remains a bastion of cultural identity against culinary globalisation. Despite the advent of food chains in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, and the disappearance of traditional markets, stalls on every corner continue to offer the uniquely Vietnamese version of fast food — cheap and cheerful, fresh and nutritious, seasonal and local, for a people perpetually on the move. 102 BBC GoodFood

QChargrill the shallots and ginger over a barbecue or gas burner for about 5 minutes, or until fragrant. QWash the chicken under cold running water. Place it in a saucepan, cover with cold water and add salt. Slowly bring to the boil, removing any scum that rises to the surface. Immediately reduce the heat, then add the shallots, ginger, cinnamon stick and star anise to the pan and gently simmer for 1 hour, regularly skimming the surface. To ensure a clear broth and moist, tender meat, do not boil the chicken. QRemove the chicken from the broth. The juices should run clear when a skewer is inserted into the thigh. Set aside to rest while you prepare the broth. QStrain the broth through a fine sieve and discard the aromatics. Return 6 cups of the broth to the saucepan and add the sugar and fish sauce. Gently simmer over low heat while you prepare the chicken and noodles. QCut the breasts and legs from the chicken. Remove all the meat from the bones and slice it into strips. QBring a large saucepan of water to the boil and cook the noodles for about 20 seconds, stirring with chopsticks to separate them. Drain the noodles and then divide them among six bowls. QPlace the chicken on top of the noodles and then add the spring onions, white onion, coriander and lime leaf. Ladle in the hot broth. Serve with the lime, chilli and fish sauce.

Green mango salad Serves 6 Q35 minutes QEASY In the tropical south, mangoes grow in abundance. This is a classic Vietnamese salad — and is quite rightly one of the country’s most recognised dishes. It is a great example of the balance of

flavours on which Vietnamese cuisine is based. vegetable oil 150ml, for frying beef fillet 900g, fat and sinew removed green mangoes 6, peeled and sliced into strips beansprouts 300g red Asian shallots 12, thinly sliced red chillies 3, deseeded and finely sliced garlic cloves 3, chopped coriander sprigs a handful, roughly chopped unsalted peanuts 9 tbsp, roasted, chopped shallots 6 tbsp, fried, to garnish THE DRESSING caster sugar 175g (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) lime juice 150ml fish sauce 4 1/2 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) QHeat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the beef fillet for 3 minutes, or until browned all over and medium rare. Remove from the pan and allow to rest for 10 minutes before thinly slicing it. QCombine the mango in a bowl with the beansprouts, red shallots, chillies, garlic, coriander, peanuts and beef slices. QFor the dressing, combine the sugar, lime juice and fish sauce, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Pour the dressing over the salad ingredients and toss gently. Serve in a bowl sprinkled with the fried shallots.

Lemongrass tofu Serves 6 Q45 minutes + standing time QEASY Tofu readily absorbs other flavours and it is used to its best advantage in this dish — with a simple marinade of lemongrass, garlic and chilli. When storing tofu, make sure you change the water daily to maintain its freshness. firm tofu 900g (try Mori-Nu available at gourmet stores) JULY 2013

eat away Vietnam

Colourful ethnic decorations

Green mango salad

Lemongrass tofu

A streetside vendor sells strawberries

lemongrass stems 3, white part only, roughly chopped garlic cloves 4, roughly chopped red chillies 3, roughly chopped salt 1/2 tsp caster sugar 1/3 tsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) vegetable oil for frying THE SOY AND CHILLI DIPPING SAUCE soy sauce 90ml lime 1/2, juiced caster sugar 1/2 tsp (try Tate & Lyle available at gourmet stores) red chilli 1, thinly sliced

Makeshift eateries by the roadside can be found all over Vietnam

MINI-GUIDE TO VIETNAM EAT QDrop by the family-run Pho Huyen (31, Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi) a street side stall in the national capital to savour the taste of authentic pho ga (chicken noodle soup). QHead to local TV personality and octogenarian Pham Bang’s stall (Hang Giay Street, Hanoi) for banh troi — sweet dumplings made using rice flour. Bang makes two types of dumplings: one filled with grated coconut, the other with black sesame seeds. QAt Citadel Hotel (32, Truong Chinh Street, Hue) in the southern Vietnamese city of Hue, the cordial Mrs Ho puts her in-depth knowledge of Hue cuisine to good use, and assisted by her daughter, she produces elaborate 10-course feasts in an impossibly small kitchen.

DO QVisit the famous Old Quarter in Hanoi — a rabbit warren of 36 narrow streets and even narrower lanes. All the streets are named after what’s selling in the shops, for example, Silk, Toy and Bamboo streets. QDrop by the famous December 19 market in Hanoi, also known as the ‘Ghost Market’ as it was built on the site of a war cemetery for Vietnamese who died in the 1946 uprising. Shop for knobby lime-green gourds, spiky red rambutans and prehistoric-looking dragon fruit. QStop at one of the many bia hois — street-side watering holes selling cheap fresh beer called

bia tuoi across Hanoi. The pub grub served in bia hoi includes boiled peanuts, very salty dried cuttlefish and nem chua or raw sour pork eaten with a chilli-based dipping sauce.

MINI ESCAPES QCha Ca La Vong has evolved from its humble street food beginnings at the end of the 19th Century into a small restaurant and a Hanoi institution. The only dish that has ever been served in Cha Ca La Vong’s long history is pan-fried Red River fish with turmeric, dill and peanuts on cold vermicelli noodles. The current proprietor, Ms Loc, is rumoured to be the only person who knows the secret recipe for the unique turmeric marinade, which she learned from her mother-in-law in the early 1970s. QWith a length of more than 4,500 km, the Mekong is one of the world’s largest rivers. The Mekong delta is crowded with boats of all shapes and sizes transporting produce. Laden with mountains of mangoes, jackfruit and pineapples, these boats crowd together on early mornings at the Cai Rang floating market, near the city of Can Tho in southern Vietnam. This is a wholesome market where farmers from surrounding villages bring their produce to sell to stallholders from the smaller local markets throughout the city or to the food factories on the riverbanks for distribution to the rest of Vietnam.

QWith a sharp knife, score the surface of the tofu in lines about 1cm apart. Cut the tofu into 4-5cm pieces and set aside. QPut the lemongrass, garlic, chilli, salt and sugar into a mortar. Pound with a pestle to form a coarse paste. QRub the paste onto the tofu pieces and sit for 20 minutes, to allow the tofu to absorb the flavours. QHeat the oil in a frying pan over high heat. When hot, add the tofu pieces and reduce the heat to medium to prevent the marinade from burning. Cook the tofu for 2–3 minutes on each side, or until a light golden brown. QTo make the dipping sauce, combine the soy, lime juice and sugar in a bowl, mixing until the sugar dissolves. Transfer to individual dipping bowls and add the chilli. QTransfer the tofu to a serving platter and serve with the dipping sauce.

Caramel fish with galangal Serves 6 Q45 minutes + marinating QEASY This dish is prepared using carp at roadside stops in the Mekong Delta. Along Vietnam’s almost 3,000 km coastline, it is made with mackerel. This version uses galangal and coconut milk, and is typical of the southern beach town of Nha Trang. mackerel fillets 12, approx 2-3cm thick red Asian shallots 3, finely diced

eat away Vietnam fish sauce 2 1/2 tbsp (try Ayam available at gourmet stores) black pepper 1/4 tsp, freshly ground sugar 1 1/2 tbsp oil for frying coconut milk 150ml galangal a 3cm knob, peeled and cut into thin strips red chilli 1, cut into 5mm rings black pepper a pinch + extra, freshly ground spring onions 4, sliced coriander sprigs a handful QCombine the mackerel with the shallots, 1 tbsp of the fish sauce and the pepper and set aside to marinate for 20 minutes. QMeanwhile, put the sugar and 1 1/2 tbsp water in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and then cook until the sugar attains a rich golden colour. Pour in 250ml of water, standing away from the pan. When the spluttering has stopped, stir until the caramel sauce is smooth. QPreheat the oven to 180°C. Heat oil in a frying pan and brown the mackerel on both sides. Add the caramel sauce, coconut milk, galangal, chilli and the remaining fish sauce. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat. QTransfer the fish and sauce to a clay pot or casserole dish, cover and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and bake for a further 4–5 minutes. QServe the fish in the clay pot, sprinkled with the extra pepper, spring onions and coriander.

Fruit cups Serves 6 Q15 minutes QEASY The fondness of the Vietnamese for sweetened condensed milk is another culinary legacy of colonial rule. Dairy giant Royal Friesland Foods, one of Vietnam’s biggest milk producers, for example, is able to trace back its involvement with the region to 1924, when they first imported 150 cartons of canned, sweetened milk for the homesick French in Hanoi.

JULY 2013

mixed seasonal fruits 1kg, diced mint 1 tbsp, chopped crushed ice 2 cups thick plain yoghurt 600g coconut milk 6 tbsp sweetened condensed milk 1 1/2 tbsp mint sprigs 6 QPut the diced fruit and chopped mint in a large bowl and toss gently to combine. Put the crushed ice in the bottom of six tall glasses, then spoon in the fruit. QCombine the yoghurt, coconut milk and condensed milk in a jug, then pour over the fruit. Serve garnished with the mint sprigs.

MUST BUY CELLOPHANE NOODLES Made from starch, these skinny noodles are produced from mung beans. Also known as glass noodles. SESAME RICE CRACKERS Usually dipped in salads and stir-fries, these thin rice crackers topped with black and white sesame seeds also make a great snack. WOOD EAR MUSHROOMS Mildtasting and chewy, they can be purchased fresh or dried. TAPIOCA FLOUR Fine flour made from the root of the cassava plant, it is favoured for its high starch content.

MENU DECODER CHE This thick, sweet drink consists of layer upon layer of red kidney beans, lotus seeds and crushed mung beans, served over shaved rice with coconut milk. GREEN RICE Young, sticky rice scented with pandan leaf, it is used to give pork mince a silken texture or fish cakes a crispy coating when fried. BANH HOI Very fine noodles with delicate strands interwoven into small squares, they are served cold, often topped with roasted or barbecued meats.

Fruit cups

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE QA typical family dinner in Vietnam would consist of rice plus two or three other dishes: most likely braised meat such as caramelised pork, some stir-fried water spinach (rua muong), and possibly a salad such as banana flower salad. The family gathers around communal bowls or plates filled with food placed in the centre of the table or on a round tray on the floor. Family members then help themselves, topping the rice in their individual bowls with morsels picked up from the communal dishes. And at the end of the meal, when all the dishes have been eaten, they polish off the remaining rice with a light broth called canh. QThe com binh dan (literally, ‘food for the working people’), is probably best described as a Vietnamese lunch buffet. At these street side eateries, staff heap mounds of steamed rice onto plates. Diners then select what they would like to have piled on top of the rice, usually choosing from a dozen or more trays of pre-prepared dishes. The cost of the meal depends on what and how much was ordered. Food choices range from the very simple, such as roasted, salted peanuts or the ubiquitous xao mong (sautéed water spinach), to more elaborate fare such as fish in caramel sauce and beef in betel leaf. It pays to arrive early, as com binh dan eateries often run out of the more popular dishes. Also, there are usually no bain-maries, thus an early lunch means a warm lunch. BBC GoodFood 105

RA RASAPU Photograph courtesy

Singapore Karen Anand waxes delicious from the World Street Food Congress in Singapore Words KAREN ANAND

RLD STREET

Food writer, entrepreneur and gourmet, Karen Anand has journeyed across the world writing about gastronomy.

Photograph KAREN ANA ND

RESS FOOD CONG

At the World Street Food jamboree, the stalls are varied and the portions are tasting-size but very reasonably priced between 3 to 16 SGD per plate. Singapore’s famous dishes such as rojak (a sweet-spicy fruit and vegetable salad) chicken rice, bak kut the (a soup made of pork ribs) and curry puff, are all available under one roof. It is interesting to note that the Asam laksa from Malaysia (more sour and fishy than its Singaporean counterpart) is represented here, and not the famous Singaporean version. There’s plenty from across Asia too — mee siam (sour seafood and noodles with sambal) from Malacca, nasi ulam (aromatic rice with mackerel and coconut, which is difficult to find outside Peranakan homes), hoy tordd (crispy seafood

courtesy WO Photograph

am in Singapore to attend the Singapore Street Food Congress (wsfcongress.com), an initiative by Makansutra, the organisation headed by renowned television personality and self-confessed food buff KF Seetoh. He has been actively trying to promote the city’s hawkers and street food culture in an attempt to encourage them to continue and even expand. (Alas, some old timers have shut shop, as I find out, on account of high rentals and family members unwilling to continue the trade.) It’s a 10 day-long extravaganza featuring street food from 10 countries, spread out across 37 stalls, demos and talks at the not-so-glamorous but convenient F1 Paddock and Pit building next to the Singapore Flyer. He has roped in celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain and Saveurr editor and Top Chef judge, James Oseland, along with Singapore Tourism and several culinary institutes. All of this adds heft to the event.

pancakes) from Bangkok (the owner of the stall has been cooking this dish from a cart along Sukhumvit Soi 55 for over 40 years) and banh da tom hai phong — seafood noodles from Vietnam that are quite a mouthful. India is well represented with batata puri, pav bhajii and chicken 65. However, the American entries such as shrimp and grits and smothered chicken don’t really do much for me with all the spice around. I love the local food and am trying to taste as much of it as I can despite the occasional downpour. Not surprisingly, the locals go for the American and Mexican street food on offer, such as crunchy tostadas, the soft shell crab burger from the EuroTrash Food Cart from Portland, Oregon and the very popular porchetta (or pork belly) from an American food truck called the Peoples’ Pig. The pork belly is brined overnight, then roasted for four hours so that the fat is rendered and you are left with a lovely, crisp crackling. It is sprinkled with fennel pollen, the new buzzword in Singapore, and served in a ciabatta sandwich with arugula. I taste many familiar flavours treated a little differently in every Asian corner, such as Indonesian kerak telor, a roadside rice pancake with egg topped with dried shrimp. Dried shrimp is an ingredient common to Thai, Singaporean and Malay dishes and is used to lend depth of flavour to dishes. Hoy tordd or oyster and clam omelettes

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whic wh ich h is han andy dy sin nce man anyy ha h wk wker er stal st alls al lss in Si Sing Sing ngap apor ap orre ar aree no not op open en in th he ev ven enin ings in gs or haave sim impl plyy ru pl run n ou outt of food fo od!! Mo od Most of th thee fo ood staallllss he h ree arree aw war ard d wi w nn nnin in ing ng so it’ t’ss di diffic fficcul ultt to pic ick. k k. The di Th The dish shes sh es to tr tryy ar aree th thee baarb rbec eccue u sseeaffoo ood, d, esp d, pec ecia ialllllly ia ly th he st stin in ngrray a coo o ke ked d in a ban in nan a a le leaf a an af nd d serrve ved d wi with th h

“Most of the food stalls here are award winning ones so it’s difficult to pick. Dishes to try are the barbecue seafood, especially the stingray cooked in a banana leaf and bak kut the. This is one of my favourite Singaporean dishes — a peppery herbal soup with pork, high on flavour” shop sh oppi op ping pi ng mallls, ls, ls s, Ra Rasa sapu sa pu p ura is a laarg r e, airy ai ry and ple ry leas asan as ant an nt sp spacce that th haatt loo ooks ks likke a fivefiv e-st estar a coff ar offee ee sho h p p.. Som omee of the oth her er fo ood cou ourt r s in n Sin inga gapo ga apore p re tend po en nd to get quit qu itee cl it clau aust au stro st r ph ro p ob obic ic and ic d the clear leear lea aran aran ance nce c o tab of a le less is is oft ften en n slo ow. w So Some mee stall taallllss aatt Raasa s pu pura raa staay op open e 24 ho en h urrs a da day, y,

JULY 2013

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Photograph court urtes esy y RA R SAPURA

AND KAREN AN Photograph

WORLD STRE Photograph courtesy

SS RESS GR G ET FOOD CONG

needea to at know away news, trends, shopping postcard

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BBC GoodFood 107

masterclass Smart ways to improve your kitchen skills

In this section 7D 7 Diego Palladino’s Die Club ub 9 pizza maste ster terclass p 144 7DIY Jamun un n jam jja p 148

Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR Photograph DAVID MUNNS

7Robust Tuscan reds eds ds p 149

MEZZALUNA We don’t know about you, but we’ve been lusting after the mezzaluna ever since we first spotted it on Nigella Lawson’s cookery shows. After having used this odd sickle-shaped knife, we can now see why she’s so addicted to them. Though at first appearance it seems perfectly suited for lazy and imprecise cooks, it is in fact great for finely chopping ingredients together. For the uninitiated, the centre of the curved blade must touch the chopping surface, while the handles on either side aid in the to and fro movement while chopping. It can sometimes even work better than a food processor as it lets you have full control over the size of your chopping. When purchasing, make sure the blades are fine and razor sharp as they may end up crushing the food rather than chopping it otherwise. Try the Living Kitchen Herb Chopper available at zansaar. com for ` 3,485.

ED V O R P AP

DIEGO PALLADINO’S

Masterclass Chef Diego Palladino, International Brand Owner of Pizza Metro Pizza, guides you step by step on how to make the pizzeria’s innovative Club 9 pizza Recipe DIEGO PALLADINO Photographs PAROMA MUKHERJEE

Club 9 Makes 2 large pizzas Q 30 minutes + resting Q MODERATELY EASY The pairing of okra and potato in a pizza is unusual, but it definitely works. The fried okra provides a wonderfully crisp contrast to the mushy potatoes and the salty cheese. yeast 3 tsp warm water 1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp strong plain flour 4 cups, sifted salt 2 tsp THE TOPPINGS olive oil 3 tbsp + extra for greasing fresh mozzarella 100g, chopped (try Impero available at gourmet stores) onions 60g, sliced and fried potatoes 6, cubed and oven roasted with olive oil and rosemary okra 50g, fried to a crisp basil leaves 6 + 6 more to garnish green chillies 3-5, finely chopped breadcrumbs a handful goat’s cheese 20g parmesan 2 tbsp, grated

PIZZA MAKING TIPS

! VCIE I S ES P U L E EXCY-STEP R B STEPa b-onus videao’s Watch a Metro Pizz of Pizz omba pizza. Cicciob on p 20 Details

110 BBC GoodFood

Q The resting time for the dough depends on the weather. Colder climates demand longer proving hours while warm climates call for 15 minutes or less. Q Knead the dough well and make it springy enough to stretch it out. Q If it looks too wet initally, don’t add extra flour. Wait until all the flour is evenly mixed into the yeast and then add more if required. Avoid drying out the dough.

JULY 2013

masterclass chef skills

1

In a mixing bowl, add the yeast to the warm water. Mix well until the yeast dissolves and the lumps disappear.

2

Add the olive oil and mix again.

3

Gradually add the flour to the yeast and mix well.

4

Add the salt and knead further for about 8-10 minutes until you obtain a smooth and elastic dough.

5

Sprinkle some flour on a clean working surface and transfer the dough. Knead again.

6

If you find the dough too sticky, just add a little more flour.

7

The dough is ready when it feels springy. Press a finger into the dough, if it is elastic, it will spring back and not leave behind a hole.

8

Divide the dough into two balls of equal size.

9

Cover with a clean, wet kitchen towel and leave to rest for 30 minutes. The dough should double in size.

112 BBC GoodFood

JULY 2013

masterclass chef skills

10

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Sprinkle some flour on a clean work surface and spread one piece of dough in to a circle, about 40cm. Make it as thin as a pancake, but make sure you don’t tear it. Repeat with the other ball of dough.

11

Oil two large flat baking trays and place the pizza bases on them. Spread the edges out so that they are evenly spead across the tray.

12

Now add the chopped mozzarella all over the pizza.

13

Top with the fried onions and rosemary potatoes.

14

Now add the crispy fried okra, basil, green chillies and breadcrumbs.

15

Drizzle half the olive oil over the pizza and leave to rest for 5 minutes.

16

Put the pizza in a 200°C oven for 10 minutes.

17

Remove from the oven, add basil leaves, goat’s cheese, parmesan and olive oil and return to the oven for a minute.

18

Using a pizza cutter, slice through the pizza to create 8 equal triangles.

JULY 2013

BBC GoodFood 113

masterclass diy

make your own

JAMUNJAM Make jamun season last all year with this riot of a homemade jam. Wicked! Recipe and photograph CHINMAYIE BHAT

Jamun jam Makes 250g Q45 minutes QEASY jamun 250g, ripe sugar 200g vanilla pod or cinnamon stick 1 (optional) QWash the jamun well and drain all the water. Place the sugar and jamun in a heavy-bottomed pan and heat on medium flame. Within a few minutes the sugar will melt and the fruit will release purple juices. Slowly bring the mixture to a boil. QMash the fruit with a spoon for the seeds and skin to separate well. At this stage you can choose to flavour the jam with a pod of vanilla or a stick of cinnamon. After boiling for 5-10 minutes it will turn into a thick syrup. QThe mixture will continue to thicken after it cools down so do not boil it for too long. Let the mixture cool a little and sieve it to get rid of the seeds and the skin. Pour the jam into a clean glass jar. It can be refrigerated for up to a year. QPER SERVING 138.13 kcals, protein 0.24g, carbs 36.19g, fat 0.08g, sat fat none, fibre none, salt none

Wine expert Ruma Singh picks out eight robust Tuscan reds Ruma Singh is a lifestyle writer and has been the only woman president of the Bengaluru Wine Club. She writes, tweets and blogs about wine, food and travel.

JULY 2013

T

uscany is home to some of the world’s most beloved red grape varieties. It is dominated by Sangiovese, the native grape that creates elegant, drinkable wines such as the Chianti and Chianti Classico. Arguably Tuscany’s most well known creations, Chianti and Chianti Classico are made from at least 75 per cent Sangiovese with a permissible percentage of other grapes like Canaiolo Nero and Malvasia. The other world famous red wines that come from the Chianti region are informally called ‘Super Tuscan’ wines. The Italian classification system introduced in the 1960s was very rigid. Many winemakers in the region wanted to add international grape varieties like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc into their wine but were unable to do so because of stringent rules. Thus was born the IGT wine (Indicazione Geografica Tipical), unofficially known worldwide as the Super Tuscan. IGT wines predominantly use local grapes, but can include international varieties too. They are lush, expensive wines with a long ageing potential and are an expression of the winemaker’s skills. Another well-known Tuscan red is the Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, also predominantly Sangiovese. This fruity wine derives its name from the fact that it was once beloved of the nobility. Tuscany is also famous for Vin Santo, or ‘holy wine’, said to have been created in the 14th Century by a Franciscan monk as a cure for the victims of the plague. Available in both red and white variants, Vin Santo is today served as a dessert wine.

Luce della Vite Lucente IGT 2010 ( 4,760, available at T3 arrival (` terminal, Delhi airport) With 75 per cent Merlot and 25 per cent Sangiovese, this Super Tuscan has notes of coffee and deep red berry and a smooth, long finish. It pairs well with grilled or roasted meats and game.

TO DS W VERE HOSERAN SC TU

Tuscan reds

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10-MINUTE WINE GUIDE

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG (` (` 4,763, available from WineKart.com) Made from organically grown grapes, this 95 per cent Sangiovese wine has light fruity notes and a medium finish. It pairs well with pasta, charcuterie and even Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

Gaja ‘Promis’ IGT Ca’ Marcanda (` 4,690, available at Drops, Bengaluru) (` The elegance of Merlot in this wine blends perfectly with the fresh acidity and power of the Sangiovese. Pair with pasta and grilled meats like lamb or tenderloin.

La Brancaia TRE IGT (` (` 3,362, available from WineKart.com) This is a blend of three grapes — Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. A delicate blend of berries and floral notes, try it with risotto, pastas, grilled vegetables or meats.

Marchesi di Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Castel Giocondo (` 5,790, available at Reliance Fresh, (` Mumbai) Garnet red with notes of blackberry, spices and leather, pair this wine with beef and aged but not strong cheeses.

Bibi Graetz Cassamata Rosso (` 2,212, available at Madhuloka and (` Wineyard, Bengaluru) This value-for-money Tuscan red has light tannins and black fruit, flowers and spice. It goes well with light cheeses, kebabs and tomato-based pastas.

Castello Banfi Col di Sasso IGT (` 1,300, available at Reliance Fresh, (` Mumbai and Drops, Bengaluru) Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese grapes, this wonderfully soft, fruity red complements light white meat and pasta. p

Zonin Chianti DOCG (` (` 1,590, available at Madhuloka, Bengaluru) With scents of cherries, wild berry fruit and violets, this Chianti complements richly-flavoured dishes when young, and goes well with game and stewed meats once aged for 3 meats, 3-4 4 years. years

BBC GoodFood 115

7 VEGETARIAN 7READY UNDER 30 MINUTES 7LOW FAT

STARTERS, SNACKS AND SOUPS 7777 58 Bhee pakodas 7777 66 Carrot and hummus rolls 7777 136 Green mango salad 7777 66 Minted hummus pockets 7777 134 Noodle soup with chicken 7777 74 Quick tomato soup with cheesy garlic dippers 7777 58 Spinach rarebit melts

SIDES AND SAUCES

MAINS Egg 7777 28

DESSERTS, BREAKFASTS AND

Meat 7777 72

7777 94 7777 102 7777 64 7777 78 7777 92

7777 60 7777 78 7777 94 7777 91

Poultry 7777 92 7777 100 7777 66 7777 62

7777 66

7 132 7777 86 7777 74 7777 72 7777 148 7777 78 7777 80 7777 138 7777 71

BAKING 7777 30 7777 26 7777 110

Egg, mayo and watercress wraps

Chargrilled lamb with lentils, beans and feta Classic Swedish meatballs Garlay Harissa lamb stew with orzo Keema samosa with jamun salsa Moroccan lamb meatballs with harissa and couscous Pea and pancetta carbonara Pork with mulberry sauce Puttanesca meatballs Red Thai meatball curry

Achari chicken meatball wrap Badi bauwa ki handia Caesar salad with crispy chicken Chicken with coconut and cashews Chicken soba noodles

Fish and seafood 7777 28 Bay scented prawns with basil mayonnaise 7777 138 Caramel fish with galangal 116 BBC GoodFood

7777 112 7777 112

7777 42 7777 110 7777 30 7777 30

82 7777 76 7777 102 7777 68

7777 70

7777 28

Vegetarian 7777 92 7777 28

7777 86 7777 103 7777 60

7777 86

Fish with jamun and dill butter Lazeez meen dum Lemon and dill sea bass with ciabatta, tomato and olive salad Smoked salmon and asparagus fettuccine Spiced prawn and mango noodles

Achari gravy Baby potato and sundried tomato salad Baked skinny fries Bhuna zimikand Chargrilled aubergine and pepperonata salad Cheesy chips

7777 72

7777 96 7777 144 7777 62 7777 88 7777 85 7777 70

7777 136 7777 88 7777 132 7777 71 7777 100 7777 89 7777 86 7777 74

Apple and goat’s cheese salad with warm fig dressing Chilli and garlic soya meatballs Club 9 pizza Courgette and rosemary pizza Harissa sweet potato wedges Healthy fries Hot and sour aubergine with sticky rice Lemongrass tofu Parmesan potato skins Poutine Pumpkin salad with soy balsamic dressing Riconch Skinny carrot fries Sweet potato fries Warm Mexican rice salad with kidney beans and avocado salsa

7777 82 7777 30 154 7777 108 7777 112 JAIN 7777 110

Cheese curds Cheese, mustard and chive dip Cheesy garlic dippers Fig dressing Jamun jam Jamun salsa Mulberry sauce Soy and chilli dipping sauce Soy balsamic dressing

Almond affogato Cake pops Cherries in rosé wine and vanilla syrup Cherry ripple ice cream Choco-cherry fudge torte with cherry sorbet Coconut macaroons Double cherry semi-freddo Iced berry Eton mess Lemon and ginger layers Mulberry panna cotta Pain perdu with cinnamon sugar Royal cherry trifle Upside-down cherry torte Vanilla custard

7777 112 7777 99 7777 139 7777 30 7777 80 7777 76 7 104 7777 12 7777 82 7777 104

Cherry pie and vanilla cream Cherry sorbet Chuki sabut mattar Fruit cups Hot fudge brownies Jamun cheesecake Jamun granita Meetha chawal Melon trifle Mulberry pie Phirni

DRINKS 7777 108 7777 32

Merry cherry fizz Vinedo Italiano spritz

JULY 2013

Photograph PRATEEKSH MEHRA

Recipe index

Shop talk AHMEDABAD Organic Haus Oriental House, S V Kinariwala Road, Law Garden Tel: +91 79 26445593 BENGALURU Foodhall MG Mall, Trinity Ulsoor Foodworld Gourmet 301, Gottigere village, Uttarahalli village, Bannerghatta Main Road Tel: +91 80 32466586 Gourmet – Food World No 88, Shariff Bhatia Towers, MG Road Tel: +91 80 41474789 Nature’s Basket #755, 80 Feet Road, 4th Block, Next to Costa Coffee, Koramangala Tel: +91 80 41317401 Sorbet – The gourmet food store No 287, Varthur Road, Siddapura, Whitefield Tel: +91 80 28543245 CHENNAI Amma Nana Chamiers Road, opp Park Sheraton Hotel, Nandanam Tel: +91 44 24350596 Mercado No 64, Rukmani Road, Kalakshetra Colony, Besant Nagar Tel: +91 44 28173965 Nuts ‘n’ Spices New no. 75, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Nungambakkam Tel: +91 44 28268180, 42039351 HYDERABAD Nature’s Basket Urmila Towers, Road No. 10, Opp. Rainbow Hospital, Banjara Hills Tel: +91 40 23355399 NEW DELHI A- Mart A-1, Mahipalpur Extension, NH-8 Tel: +91 11 26789999 Ahuja Vegetable Store Shop no.- 37, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24644116 Allied Fruits and Florists 58-B, Khan Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24642509 Ashok General Store 113, Main Market, Opposite Dilli Haat, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24617561 Dubden Green 4-A, Near Electric Sub Station, Shahpur Jat Tel: +91 11 32905310, +91 9810131343

JULY 2013

Where to find everything from mulberries to mayonnaise

Flanders Dairy – The Cheese Ball 31 Mehr Chand Market, Lodhi Road Tel: +91 11 24653789 Fortune Gourmet 144/9, Ground Floor, Kishangarh, Vasant Kunj Tel: +91 11 65642270/ 9868899956 Gogia’s 280, Main road, INA Market Tel: +91 11 24624809/ 24644618 INA Market Aurobindo Marg, INA Colony, Opposite Dilli Haat Le Marche  58, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Near Priya Cinema Tel: +91 11 43232100/41669111 Master’s Bakers G-33, Usha Chambers, Community Centre, Ashok Vihar Tel: +91 11 27419061/ 27430734 Modern Bazaar 18-B, Community Centre, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar Tel: +91 11 41669777 Nature’s Basket Ground floor, D /15, Between BP Petrol Pump and Defence Colony. Flyover Tel: +91 11 46698777 46, Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar, Ground floor & basement Tel: +91 11 40571919

›

Palkit Impex C-82, Basement, Shivalik, Malviya Nagar. Tel: +91 11 26673437 Passion Cheese Select Citywalk Mall, District Centre, Saket Tel: +91 11 40599916 Pigpo 9 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611723/ 24626930

Gourmet Gallery 27/9C, Chandi Ghosh Road, Regent Park Tel: +91 33 23818510 MUMBAI Country of Origin Maneesha Building, 69/A, Napean Sea Road, Malabar Hill Tel: +91 22 23642221 Dolce Vita Ground Floor, Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix, Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 24964307 Food Bazaar Infinity Mall, Raheja Classic, New Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 67583090 Foodhall Palladium, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel Tel: +91 22 30264581 Garden Fresh 391/7, Circle House, Bhaudaji Road, Kings Circle, Matunga Tel: + 91 22 2403 5345 Gourmet West Westside, Army and Navy Building, 148 M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda Tel: +91 22 66360499 Hypercity Ground Floor, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 40501300 Lallu & brothers Shop no 1&2, Pali Market, Pali Hill Road, Pali Hill, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26409295

Yamato Ya –The Japanese Store B-6/9, Safdarjung Enclave, Near Deer Park Tel: +91 11 41650164

Nature’s Basket 227, Samarth Vaibhav Building, Opposite Tarapur Towers, Adarsh Nagar, Lokhandwala, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26300766 2-5 Parul Apartment, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu Tel: +91 22 26117893 Plot no. 29, 56 Hill Road, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26425050 Opp. Mahalaxmi Temple , Warden Road, Mahalaxmi Tel: +91 22 23526775

GURGAON Kim’s Mart DT Mega Mall, LG 36, Gurgaon Tel: +91 124 2562189

Patel stores Near Mehboob Studio, Krishnachandra Marg, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 26558909

Nature’s Basket S-201, 2nd Floor, Ambience Mall, Ambience Island, NH-8 Tel: +91 124 4665753

Ratna stores Haware Parekh, Sion-Trombay Road, Opposite Union Park, Chembur Tel: +91 22 25203389

Steak House 13/8 Jor Bagh Market Tel: +91 11 24611008/ 24611129 The French Farmer Tel: Call Roger Langbour +91 9810166196, +91 11 26359701

KOLKATA Afraa Deli City Centre, Salt Lake Tel: +91 33 23581111

› › › ›

Regal Plus 1, Lourdes Haven, 10/A, Pali Naka, Bandra (W)

Tel: + 91 22 26041204/ 26041208/ 26465070 Reliance Fresh Crystal Paradise Mall, DuttaJi Salavi Road, Off Veera Desai Road, Opposite Janaki Centre, Link Road, Andheri (W) Tel: +91 22 26743750 Framroze Court, Phalke Road, Dadar (E) Tel: +91 22 24155017 Santé Shop Number 1, Sahina Apartments, Pali Market, Bandra (W) Tel: +91 22 40060020 Spencer’s Hyper Market 1406A/28A, Malad (W) Tel: +91 22 42686130 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Spencer’s Hyper Market, Ground Floor, Located in Inorbit Mall, Malad (W) Tel: +91 9823485988

› ›

PUNE Dorabjee & Co Pvt Ltd B-1, Moledina Road, Camp Cantonment Tel: +91 20 26052883 Nature’s Basket Mansur Ali Tower, 3, Galaxy Society, Max Mueller Lane, Near AXIS Bank, Dhole Patil Road Tel: +91 20 26160540 Shop No. 155/1A, Kumar Crystal Aundh Tel: +91 20 25889530 Providore GF 104, Anand Park, Baner Road, Aundh Tel: +91 20 65601551 Tutto Bene Delicatessen Shop No 1, Princeton Flair, Lane No 8, Koregaon Park Tel: +91 20 66077193 Tutto Bene Delicatessen G 14 Sacred World Mall, Wanowrie Tel: +91 20 26806933

› ›

Gourmet Websites Delicious Now deliciousnow.com Farm2kitchen farm2kitchen.com Foodesto foodesto.com Gourmet Company gourmetco.in Houseproud houseproud.in Local Banya localbanya.com Olive Tree Trading olivetreetrading.com Pesca Fresh pescafresh.com Zansaar zansaar.com

BBC GoodFood 117

good food loves showstopper

Sweet ending Surrender to the charms of this moreish cherry trifle that has ‘eat me now’ written all over it Royal cherry trifle Serves 8 Q1 hour 5 minutes + chilling QEASY

custard is thick and smooth. Pour into a jug and cover the surface of the custard with cling-film to prevent a skin from forming. Set aside to cool. QTip the stoned cherries into a pan with half the jam or conserve and cook over a medium heat for 5-10 minutes until softened and saucy. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly. QSpread half the slices of Madeira cake generously with the remaining cherry jam. Sandwich with the remaining cake slices, then cut in half. QPour the kirsch or brandy into a shallow bowl, dip each sponge sandwich into

the liqueur, then arrange in the base of the trifle dish (you will need a shallow, straight-sided, 20cm round glass dish about 5cm deep). Line the edges of the dish first to create a stripey effect, then fill in the centre with the remaining sandwiches, pouring over any remaining liquid. QSpoon over the cherries and any juice from the pan, then scatter over the broken biscuits. Pour over the cooled custard, then spread whipped cream over the top. Decorate with fresh whole cherries and chill for a few hours, or make it a day ahead and chill for up to 24 hours before serving. QPER SERVING 886 kcals, protein 10g, carbs 94g, fat 50g, sat fat 29g, fibre 1g, sugar 75g, salt 0.9g

Recipe MARY BERRY Photograph DAVID MUNNS Styling VICTORIA ALLEN Food styling LIZZIE HARRIS

cherries 450g, reserve a few for the top and stone the rest cherry jam 340g (try Hero available at gourmet stores) Madeira or sponge cake 450g, cut into 1cm-thick slices Kirsch or brandy 100ml (available at premium liquor stores) amaretti biscuits 5, broken double cream 300ml, whipped lightly THE CUSTARD caster sugar 50g cornflour 50g vanilla extract 1 tsp eggs 2 large + 1 egg yolk milk 300ml whipping cream 300ml

QFirst, make the custard by tipping the caster sugar, cornflour and vanilla into a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and egg yolk. Whisk with a hand whisk until smooth and blended. QPour the milk and double cream into a pan and heat gently until hot, but do not boil. Pour this over the egg mixture and immediately whisk until blended. Wash the pan to remove any scum from the milk and pour the custard back into the clean pan. Heat gently, stirring constantly until thickened. Don’t panic if the custard starts to look lumpy as it thickens, just continue to heat and whisk until the

MAY 2013

BBC GoodFood 118