Basic general information in watchmaking(Complete).pdf

Basic general information in watch making

甚麼是時間?

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時間是指宏觀一切具有不停止的持續性和不可逆性的物質狀態的各種變化過程，其 有共同性質的連續事件的度量衡的總稱。

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時是對物質運動過程的描述，間是指人為的劃分。

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時間是思維對物質運動過程的分割、劃分。

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定義說明：時間是人根據物質運動來劃分的，不是本來就有的，宇宙中的「時」本 來是沒有間的。

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物質運動需要耗費「時」，但是如果不把「時」分割成間，我們的思維就無法識別 「時」，我們之所以分時為間，是因為思維能對物質世界命名，物為實，思為虛， 思命物以虛名，為思所用。

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沒有進行分割過的「時」，無法被命名，無法進行區分，只有分割成「時間」後， 才能被思維所用，因為分割後可以命名了。

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比如我們把地球繞太陽一周的運動過程劃分為一年，地球自轉一圈的運動過程劃分 為一日，

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這樣的劃分便于思維使用數字符號來計算。如果你不是生活在地球上，絕對不會以 地球的運動過程來分割時。

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所以，時間不過是人為了便于思維思考這個宇宙，而對物質運動進行的一種劃分， 是人定的規則，而並非什麼自然規則。間是人為的劃分，怎麼分都可以。

What is time? 

Time is all the macro does not stop with the sustainability and irreversibility of the material state of the various process of change and continuous nature of the event common weights and measures in general.

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Time is the description to the process of physical movement, is the artificial division between.

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Time is the mentality processes for physical movement into segmentation, division.

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Definition: The time is divided by people based on physical movement, not already there, the universe of "time" would not have been divided.

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Physical movement takes “time”, but if you do not put “time” divided into partitions, our thinking can not identify. The reason we can think, because thinking of the physical world can be named as real things, thinking is true, thinking named things with names, as used in thinking.

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Without split-off "time", can not be named, can not be distinguished, only divided into "time", the thinking in order to be used, because the partition can be named after.

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For instance, we put the Earth orbits the Sun once a year into the campaign process, the movement of the Earth's rotation around the process is divided into day,

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Thinking of this division easy to calculate using the number sign. If you do not live on earth, definitely would not split the movement of the earth to time.

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Therefore, time is a human invention to facilitate thinking, thinking about the universe, and to divide physical movement into time, is man-made rules, rather than what the natural rules. Is the artificial division between, whenever how to divide can be.

目錄 

機械錶的機芯

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自動上弦機芯和手動上弦機芯 外觀與描述 打磨裝飾藝術

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機芯部件與功能

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       

動能來源部分 動能儲備顯示 傳動部分 動能分佈部分 動能調節部分 紅寶石部件 防震系統 潤滑油

回顧  簡單和複雜的腕錶 

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精密計時器(天文台錶)與計時錶 日曆錶及複雜功能腕錶

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腕錶的其它部分

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Contents 

Mechanical Movement

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Self winding and manual winding watch Appearance and descriptions Decorations

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Functioning of a mechanical movement

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The power source The power reserve The transmission The distribution The regulation Review The Rubies The anti-shock system The Lubrication

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Simple and complication watches

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Chronograph and Chronometer Watch with calendar and other complication movements

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Exterior of a watch

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      

機械錶的機芯 自動上弦機芯和手動上弦機芯 機械腕錶是機械原理和結構的機芯的錶,用以量度時間 的過去。機械腕錶主要有兩種,分別是手動機械錶和自 動機械錶。腕錶內的機械,錶面和錶針除外,稱為機芯。

機芯以發條儲備機械能驅動腕錶。當發條的機械能流

失,我們使需要透過轉動腕錶上的錶冠‟上鏈‟以補充機

機械腕錶(自動)

械能給腕錶的發條,此頹機心我的稱為手動上鏈機芯。 機械腕錶(手動) 自動機械錶是手動機械錶的一種改良，在錶裡加入了 一個擺陀；當在配戴時，錶內的擺陀可因手腕的活動 而旋轉，而達到上發條的效果。一般的自動機械錶仍 保留手動上發條的功能，換言之仍可以轉動錶冠來上 發條而且由於手腕的活動會為手錶持續上發條，因此

自動上鏈機芯帶有擺陀 (轉子)

自動機械錶都有防止發條過緊的功能，以避免發條損 壞。但自動機械錶的出現，並沒有完全取代手動機械 錶，只是現在自動機械錶的產品較手動機械錶為多。

手動上鏈機芯

Mechanical Movement Self winding and manual winding watch A mechanical watch is a watch that uses a mechanical mechanism to measure the passage of time. There are mainly two kind of watches, hand wound watch and automatic watch. The internal mechanism of a watch, excluding the face and hands, is called the movement. A mainspring which stores mechanical energy to power the watch. The spring loses energy as the watch runs, the mainspring must be daily "wound" by the owner turning the crown on the case to provide energy to run the watch, that is called manual winding movement. An automatic or self-winding movement is, one can wound the mainspring by turning the crown, also the mainspring can be wound automatically by the oscillating weight(rotor) on the movement, with natural motion of the wearer's arm to wind the mainspring of the movement, providing energy run the watch, to make it unnecessary to manually wind the movement.

Mechanical Watch (Automatic) Mechanical Watch (Hand wound)

Manual winding movement

Automatic movement with oscillating weight(rotor)

機械錶的機芯 外觀與描述

機芯的錶盤面

機芯的夾板面

機芯通常以錶盤面和夾板面形容機芯的表面和底面。機芯的組成是由主夾板和橋板組成的骨架,包含着一定數量的 零件。 骨架以主夾板為基本,固定着其它橋板零件。不同部分的橋板又與主夾板固定着不同部分的齒輪和其它活動部分。 夾板常以銅制造,上面被鑄上不同大小的鑽孔和凹槽。一些零件,針脚和紅寶石會被裝置於夾板上。 橋板們的形狀大小不一,材質常與主夾板相同。它們也有不同大小的鑽孔凹槽,位置和紅寶石。用作固定零件,精確 地裝嵌在主夾板上。

主夾板

發條盒橋板

齒輪、擒縱裝置橋板

骨架的各部分通常電鍍上一層金屬,通常是鎳,銠,金等等。電鍍的目的第一是防止骨架的氧化,第二 是美化骨架的外觀。

Mechanical Movement Appearance and descriptions

Movement bridge side

Movement dial side

One generally designates a movement by the bridge side and the dial side. A movement is composed of a cage that contains a certain number of components. Cage is constituted of a basic piece called the main plate, on which are fixed the bridges. It is between the main plate and the bridges that the gear train and other moving part are fixed. Main plate is generally piece of brass and has certain number of recesses and holes. Some parts, pins and rubies are pressed into the main plate Bridges are elements of particular shapes, generally realized in the same material as that of the main plate. They also have recesses, holes, post and rubies. Positioned and fixed in a precise way onto the main plate, that allow the different components to stay in place.

Main plate

Barrel bridge

Gears and escapement bridge

A thin metallic coating protects the component of the cage., generally plated with nickel, rhodium, gold, etc. This coating is first to insure a protection against the oxidation, and secondly to enhance the appearance of the components.

機械錶的機芯 外觀和說明 尺寸 主骨架的厚度和直徑給予了機芯的尺寸稱之為Calibre 。

錶殼內直徑(毫米)和它的總高度(毫米)被定為caliber的尺寸。 calibre的直徑是用line量度: 1’’’(line) = 2.255毫米 line是量度單位，等於十二分之一英吋。 編號 每個Caliber帶有參考號碼(理論上)，以便它可以訂購備件時， 很容易確定。此參考號，一般是伴隨著製造商的商標。此外， 紅寶石軸承的數量也是刻在主板或擺陀上。

壁毯圖案

圓紋裝飾

日內瓦波紋

扭索狀裝飾

打磨裝飾 打磨裝飾是一項工序特別為機芯創造出一個美觀的視覺效果。它 們藉著砂紙或帶磨料的磨盤被刻劃在零件上的表面。好幾種打磨 裝飾例如„日內瓦波紋‟ ，圓紋裝飾和扭索狀裝飾和壁毯圖案因而誕 生。 橋板上的斜面由鑽石刀打磨。在某些情況下非常高級的鐘錶製造， 橋板邊緣的拉伸和斜切皆由人手打磨。

Mechanical Movement Appearance and descriptions Dimensions The thickness and the diameter of the cage give the dimensions of the movement that one calls a calibre.

The dimensions of a calibre are determined by its casing diameter(in mm) and its total height(in mm). The diameter of the calibre is given in line: 1’’’(line) = 2.255mm The line is the twelfth of the inch, this last being the twelfth part of the foot. 1⁄12 inch

The Numbering Every caliber carries a reference number(supposed) so that it can be identified easily when ordering spare parts. This reference number is generally accompanied with the mark of the manufacturer. In addition, the number of rubies is engraved on the main plate or on the oscillating weight.

Tapestry

Pearled

Cotes de Genève

Guilloché

The Decorations The decoration is the operation that consists of creating a pleasant visual surface to look at. It is created on the component surface with the help of small disks of emery papers or with abrasive millstones. Certain decors can thus be created such as „cotes de Genève‟, rounded or Guilloché patterns and tapestry. The bevels of the bridges are polished with diamond cutters. In some cases of very fine watch making, the peripheries of the bridges are stretched, beveled and polished by hand.

機芯部件與功能

4. 1. 1. 2. 3. 4.

動能來源部分 動能傳遞部分 動能分配部分 動能調節部分

2.

3.

Functioning of a mechanical movement

4. 1. 1. 2. 3. 4.

The Energy Source The Transmission The Distribution The Regulation

2.

3.

動能來源部分

發條盒

發條盒

主發條

發條盒

當使用者扭動手錶上的錶冠替手錶內的主發條上鏈，他便是動能來源。 我們便會發現主發條的作用就等同一個能量的累加器。

主發條

發條匣軸 發條盒蓋

主發條 上的倒勾

主發條 “返回的” S狀

發條是一種彈性矩形截面的金屬刀片。這段刀片捲動著發條匣軸，並逐 漸回復它初步形狀，這個過程，為手錶運作產生所必需的能量。 主發倏的形狀從螺旋形彈簧的形狀順勢至末端返回的形成S形狀。 主發條只在發條盒內被捲動上鏈。每個主發條都被研製成保持約 40小時 的動力儲備。

The Energy Source

Barrel

The Barrel

Mainspring

Barrel

If the user of a watch turns the crown to wind the mainspring, the user is the energy source. One will be able to deduct that mainspring functions like an accumulator of energy.

Mainspring

Arbor Barrel Cover

Hook on the mainspring

The mainspring “Returned S”

The mainspring is an elastic metallic blade of rectangular section. The progress of the blade, rolled up against the barrel arbor and trying to take its initial shape, produces the energy necessary for the watch to work. The shape of the spring evolved from the spiral shape to shape of the returned S. Fully wound within the barrel. The spring is manufactured in order to assure a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

動能來源部分 發條盒內的主發條

上滿鏈的狀態

倒勾

未上鏈的狀態

自上弦手錶內的主發條 (上滿鏈的狀態)

在自上弦手錶內，發條上的倒勾由一個滑動的轡所取代，就像一個“安全閥”的功能。 當主發條將完全上鏈，它會在發條盒內滑動，以防止主發條因過量上鏈而折斷。

The Energy Source Mainspring inside a barrel

Fully wounded

Hook

Unwound

Self-winding watch barrel (Fully wounded)

In a self-winding watch, the hook of the mainspring is replaced by a sliding bridle, that functions like a “safety valve”. When the mainspring will be fully wound, it will slip inside the barrel, preventing the mainspring from being over winding

動能來源部分 動力儲存指示

手錶上的動力儲存指示顯示著主發條完全上鏈至手錶停止之間的時間。 動力儲存指示這名詞是用來指定手錶將在下次上鏈前仍能運行的時間長度。這相當於在任何特定時刻的可用 的動能。 動力儲存指示有好幾種不同的形式顯示於錶面上，作用亦類似汽車的燃油壓力表的動力儲備顯示。

The Energy Source Power Reserve Indicator

The power reserve of a watch is the time that elapse between the moment that the mainspring is fully wound and the moment that the watch stops. The term power reserve is used to designate the length of time the watch will work without the mainspring being rewound. This corresponds to the available energy at any given moment. The power reserve is shown on the dial of certain models, similar to the fuel gauge of a car.

動能傳遞部分 齒輪系

中心輪 發條盒 間輪 齒輪樞軸 齒輪葉 秒輪

擒縱輪

輪齒

齒輪: 這是一個圓形的裝置圍繞一個軸 轉動。它的功能是在運行之間傳 輸能量。

主發條上鏈，在發條盒中積累的能量將通過齒輪系傳輸。

主發條釋放，回復自己形狀同時，拖動發條盒在旋轉然後轉動齒輪系。顯示小時的時針也是依賴於齒輪 系的運行。

The Transmission The gear train

Center wheel Barrel Intermediate wheel

Pivot Leaves Seconds wheel

Escape wheel

Teeth

A Wheel: This is a circular organ turning around an axis. Its function is to transmit the energy to the movement.

The energy accumulated in the barrel by the winding of the mainspring is going to allow the transmission of energy by means of the gear train. The mainspring, while releasing itself, drags the barrel in rotation, then the gear train. The display of the hour by the hands is also dependent on the gear train of the movement.

動能分佈部分 擒縱輪 游絲擺輪

圓盤寶石 (紅寶石)

擒縱叉

與秒輪連接運作

擺輪主軸 圓盤 擒縱叉寶石 (紅寶石) 擒縱輪 擒縱系統是一個分配裝置分配能源。擒縱系統的目的是維持和分隔的手錶游絲擺輪的擺動。 擒縱系統通過齒輪系接收最初由發條盒提供的動能，並均速地釋放少量的動能從而： -維持著調節裝置(游絲擺輪)的擺動持續。 -令齒輪系以一個微細的、平均的幅度運行。

The Distribution The Escapement To the sprung balance

Roller jewel (Ruby)

Pallets

Functioning with seconds wheel

Balance staff Roller table Pallet jewels (Rubies) Escape wheel

Escapement is a distributing organ to distributes the energy. The purpose of the escapement is to maintain and count the oscillations of the sprung-balance of a watch.

The escapement receives the energy provided initially from the gear train by the barrel and periodically release a small amount of this energy in order to: - Maintain the oscillations of the regulating organ(sprung balance) to oscillate. -Cause the train to move in tiny increments.

動能調節部分 游絲擺輪 游絲擺輪系統: 機械手錶的動能調節裝置由一個飛輪稱為擺輪和游絲組成。游絲的內端 固定在擺輪主軸上。游絲的另一端固定在擺輪螺栓，固定在擺輪橋板上。

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

擺輪 游絲 擺輪橋板 紅寶石座 擺輪螺栓 螺栓支架 小針 調節器

游絲擺輪的動作: 游絲擺輪可於任可方位圉繞它的”中立”位置擺動，與時鐘的鐘擺相反。 擺輪之所以兩邊擺動，因為如果它是偏離了它的中立的位置，游絲是會被拉動。這項運動產生了能量，將平 衡輪帶回中立的位置。由於它已經獲得了一定的速度，它會擺動並過了中立的位置，直到游絲反方向的動能 把它拉停，然後拉它回相反的方向擺動，不斷重複。

The Regulation The sprung-balance The sprung balance system: The regulation organ of the mechanical watches is composed of a fly wheel called the balance wheel and a hairspring. The inner end of the hairspring is fixed onto the balance staff. The opposite end of the hairspring is fixed to the Stud, which is fixed onto the balance bridge.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Balance wheel Hairspring Balance bridge Collet Stud Stud holder Pins Regulator

The movement of the balance-sprung: The balance-sprung oscillates around its “neutral” position, and this, in any position, contrary to a pendulum. The balance-spring oscillates because if it is displaced from its neutral position, the hairspring is wound or unwound. This movement creates an energy that will bring the balance wheel back to its neutral position. As it has acquired a certain speed, it swings passed its neutral position, until the opposing energy of the hairspring stops it, and then forces it to swing in the opposite direction.

動能調節部分 擺輪的類型 擺輪是由臂子和一個圓形的輪輞組成的一個飛輪。

Plain balance

普通擺輪:目前的擺輪都帶有兩個或三個臂子，他們是以優質鈹銅製造，鎳為標準的 質量。他們在其質量方面有一個優良的慣性能力​​。

Gyromax擺輪上有一定數量可調砝碼，允許在不同情況下將擺輪上的砝碼向內部或 外部調整而改變擺輪的轉動慣性。 Gyromax balance wheel

螺絲擺輪: 在過去，擺輪設計成更複雜的原因有兩個。 1.更容易地修改和調整擺輪輞上的16至18螺絲以改變擺輪的轉動慣量。人們可以添加 或移除輪輞上的螺絲和小墊圈，以增加或減少轉動慣量。

Balance wheel with screws

2.在以前鋼製的游絲或由於溫度變化而強烈地收縮和擴張。這樣改變了游絲的長度和 強度。 為了手錶的高精度，是有需要找到一個平衡這種效果的系統。其中之一個構造切割雙 層金屬擺輪因而誕生。 輪輞是由兩層金屬製成的（黃銅和鋼）。當溫度變化時，兩種金屬的以不同的速度擴 大或收縮，影響了輪輞的邊緣和修改轉動慣量。

Cut bimetallic balance wheel

The regulation Types of balance wheel The balance wheel is a fly wheel composed with a circular rim, held by arms.

Plain balance

The Plain balance: The present balance wheels are build with two or three arms, they are made of beryllium copper for the superior quality, in nickel for the standard quality. They have an excellent capacity of inertia in relation to their mass.

The Gyromax balance wheel possesses a certain number of adjustable bolts that allows to vary the moment of inertia by turning the slots of the bolts towards the inside or outside of the balance wheel. Gyromax balance wheel

The balance wheel with c\screws: In the past, the balance wheels were more complicated for two reasons. 1.To adjusting or easily modify the moment of inertia of the balance wheel 16 to 18 screws which are fixed on the balance rim. One could add or remove small washers between the head of the screw and the rim, in order to increase or reduce the moment of inertia.

Balance wheel with screws

2. The former hairsprings were made of steel and dilated or contracted strongly according to the variation of the temperature. It changed the length and the strength of the hairspring. For watches of high precision, it was necessary to find a system that counterbalanced this effect. One constructed the cut bimetallic balance wheel.

Cut bimetallic balance wheel

The rim is made of two metals(brass and steel). When the temperature changes, the two metals expand or contract at different rates, which distort the rim and modifies the moment of inertia.

動能調節部分 游絲 游絲是一段金屬段幼片，滾轉成阿基米德螺旋形狀。我們對游絲的性能要求很多。它的擺盪步伐必須盡可 能穩定，造充受到伸長率，溫度和磁場的變化而影響。 現時的游絲是由複雜的合金製式：鐵50％，鎳36％，鉻14％+10％的鎢，鉬，鈮，釩，錳，矽，鈦，鋁，鈹， 碳...

扁(平面)游絲: 一個游絲盡可能被製成同心圓是至關重要的。但是由於內部和外部連接的位置不 同，所以條件是很難滿足。 當一個扁游絲的外端是固定的螺栓，被製成同心圓是不可能的。

Flat hairspring

寶璣游絲: 在18世紀末，鐘錶匠阿諾德和寶璣以一種特殊形狀的游絲作最後端的曲線， 解決了這個問題。 Breguet hairspring

The Regulation The hairspring The hairspring is a metallic blade rolled up on itself in the shape of Archimede spiral. One requires a lot of performance from the hairspring. The couple must be as constant as possible whatever its elongation, the temperature and the variation of the magnetic field. The present hairspring is made with complex alloy: Iron 50%, nickel 36%, chromium 14% + 10% of tungsten, molybdenum, niobium, vanadium, manganese, silicon, titanium, aluminum, beryllium, carbon…

The flat hairspring: It is essential that a hairspring develops itself as concentrically as possible. It is because of the interior and outside attachments that this condition is difficult to satisfy.

For a flat hairspring whose outer end is fixed to the stud, the concentric development is not possible. Flat hairspring

The Breguet hairspring: At the end of 18th century, the watchmaker Arnold and Breguet solved the problem. By giving a special shape to the last curve of the hairspring. Breguet hairspring

回顧 它們是如何一起運作的? 我們以音樂盒為例。它與機械錶有著相似的機械原理，而分別是，音樂盒播放音樂，手錶見證著 時間的流逝。

上鏈 動能來源 動能全遞 動能分佈

動能調節

音樂盒播放音樂時，是由調速器（動能調節）的擺動控制速度穩定。調速器經由齒輪系（動能全遞）均衡地 控制針腳捲筒（動能分佈）轉動的速度並限制齒輪系的運行，以減少發條盒（動能來源）其中儲存的能量流 失的速度。我們扭動表冠（上鏈）重新儲能。在手錶亦一樣，擺輪的擺動控制擒縱系統，通過齒輪系分佈發 條盒內的主發條衡地釋放動能，令手錶的時間運行準確。如果擺輪和擒縱系統被移除，沒有任何東西控制主 發條的釋放，不消一秒發條便會完全釋放。有些人可能會誤解，擺輪的擺動提供動能給手錶，但實際上，它 的作用來調節動能的均衡。

Review So how the functions works together? Lets take a music box as an example. It posses a similar mechanism to a mechanical watch movement, their difference is, music box plays music, watch plays time.

Crown Power source Transmission Distribution

Regulation

When a music box playing a song, the speed is steady controlled by the swinging of the governor (regulation). The governor controlling the speed of the pins roll (distribution) runs evenly to limit the turns of the gear train (transmission), in order to reduce the speed of the barrel spring (power source) runs out the energy which stored. We then turn the crown (winding) to restore energy. Same as in a watch, the balance wheel swings to control the escapement to distribute energy evenly from the mainspring inside the barrel through the gear train, making time runs accurately on the watch. If the balance wheel and escapement removed, nothing to control the barrel spring release, then mainspring will runs out within a second. And some people may misunderstand that the balance wheel providing energy to the watch, but in fact, it takes the role to regulating.

紅寶石 1704年，瑞士天文學家和光學家Nicolas Fatio De Duillier ，發現了可以使用天然紅寶石來用在他們在手錶的軸 承的方法。 在1902年 August Verneuil發現了一個製造精細人工寶石的製作方法。 雖然是由人造的，但與天然成分的紅寶石相比，人工紅寶石顯示著完全相同的化學，物理和晶體結構性能。在 實踐中，合成紅寶石比天然的更有決定性的優勢。它實在是更純潔，更均勻。合成的紅寶石超過原來的紅寶石， 特別適合於工業應用。

紅寶石和藍寶石是屬於同一個家族的一部分

剛玉 合成寶石的基礎是 氧化鋁 如果沒有添加物=無色藍寶石 添加了三氧化二鉻=紅寶石

添加了鈦+氧化鐵=藍寶石

The rubies In 1704, this is the Swiss astronomer and optician Nicolas Fatio De Duillier, who discovered the way to drill the natural rubies to use them as bearings in watches. In 1902, August Verneuil discovered a process in which to manufacture artificial fine stones. Although made by man, the rubies represent exactly the same chemical, physical and crystallographic properties, so that of the natural composition. In practice, the synthetic ruby presents decisive advantages to the natural one. It is indeed purer and more homogenous. The synthetic surpasses the original, notably concerning its industrial applications.

The ruby and the sapphire are part of the same family.

CORUNDUM The basis of the synthetic ruby is ALUMINUM OXIDE Without addition=white sapphire Chromium oxide=red ruby Titanium + iron oxide=blue sapphire

紅寶石 寶石的摩氏硬度是根據一個石頭可以由摩擦而刮花另一個去劃分等級。

鑽石

剛玉(紅、藍寶石)

石英

長石

螢石

滑石

The rubies The scale of hardness of the stones according to Mohs is found on the possibility that a stone has to scratch another one by rubbing.

Diamond

Corundum

Quartz

Feldspar

Fluorite

Talc

防震系統 為了避免齒輪的樞軸(直徑0.055to0.10mm)於手錶發生了衝擊的時候不要折斷，因此發明了一些抗撞擊裝置。 他們包括擺輪主軸較的一部分(C)和樞軸(E)，原則是吸收衝擊力。由更強的一部分向裝置的主體卸力。

要做到這一點，紅寶石軸承彈性的固定到自己的位置上。在沒有震盪的情況下，擺輪樞軸正常工作。在衝 擊的情況下，紅寶石軸承移動，同時允許一個擺輪主軸的一部分衝向裝置的主體，以吸收衝擊。在衝擊後， 所有紅寶石軸承返回原來的位置。

a,紅寶石軸承 b,彈簧片 c,擺輪主軸 d,固定設置 e,樞軸

The anti-shock system To avoid that the pivots of the wheel(0.055to0.10mm of diameter) do not break at he time of a shock undergone by the watch, some anti-shock systems have been created. Their principle consists in absorbing the shocks, by a part of the balance staff that is stronger than the pivots. This stronger part comes to stumble against the body of the device. For that to happen, the jewels are fixed elastically into their place. In the absence of shock, the pivots of the balance wheel work normally. In case of shock, the jewel move, while allowing one part of the balance staff to absorb the shock. At the end the shock, all jewels take their original position.

a, Ruby bearing b, Spring c, balance staff d, setting e, pivot

潤滑劑 事實上，潤滑劑是添加在兩件磨擦的物件之間之一種產品：潤滑劑可以減少摩擦和磨損係數。它可用於以下 三種形式：固態，液態和氣態。 在鐘錶工業所用的潤滑劑 潤滑劑應該有什麼樣的特質？ 1,化學穩定性 2, 對組件呈無腐蝕性 3,抗蠕變穩定性 4,低溫穩定性 5,低揮發性 6,穩定和低的摩擦係數 7,防止磨損 8, 無論在任何濕度下都是一個在穩定的和高振幅下的保障， 製表師什麼樣的潤滑油可以用的？ 傳統的油類:

它們抑或是植物油（例如橄欖油）或源自動物的（牛蹄油）。這些油有非常良好的潤滑性能，似乎是鐘錶製造 的理想潤滑劑。 不幸的是，在與空氣接觸和亞銅的金屬催化效應中，它們往往氧化，因此，只有很短的時間效用。就算把它們 精鍊並與礦物油混合以改善，亦已經很疲累。儘管所有的研究，人們將永遠不會得到，即使大約的，也不能 達到合成油所能提供的穩定性。

The lubrication The lubrication is the fact to insert, between two pieces that rub one against the other, a product: the lubricant that permits the decrease of the coefficient of rubbing and wear. It can be used under three forms: solid, liquid and gaseous. The lubricants used in watch making What qualities should a lubricant have? 1, chemical stability 2, non corrosive properties for the components 3, non-creep stability 4, low temperature stability 5, low volatility 6, a stable and low coefficient of friction 7, prevention of wear 8, the insurance of a steady and high amplitude, whatever is humidity What lubricants are available to the watchmaker? The classic oils: They are either vegetable (olive oil for example) or of animal origin (neat‟ s foot oil). These oils have very good lubricant properties and seemed to be the ideal lubricant for watch making. Unfortunately, on contact with air and by the catalytic effect of the cuprous metals, they tend to oxidize and therefore to have a short time efficiency. One tired to improve them by taking care of the refinement and mixing them with mineral oils. In spite of all the research, one will never get, even roughly, the stability that synthetic oils offer.

潤滑劑 合成油： 它們自1950年以來已經出現，由複雜的化工產品裡組合。我們將之區分開幾類。第一個生產的合成油達到了前 五個列出的的要求。另一方面，已經沒有人感興趣關於潤滑劑的特性能乎合6，7及8條的要求。這個課題在七 十年代末已經進行了研究。這些油都在不斷改進，目的是找到一小齣，壽命最長的潤滑劑。 潤滑脂： 它們是混合油和纖維皂，類似海綿的作用，保持潤滑。還有一個鐘錶製造用的潤滑脂由二硫化鉬（MOS2）的 粉末和礦物油油組成的像粘結劑般使用。 潤滑脂的使用是微妙的。它們必須完全均質，然後才可以成為潤滑劑般使用。在擒縱系統內，潤滑劑必需要當 機械接觸時的振動中不能夠產生任何的微滴。 自潤滑材料和塗層： 許多研究仍在進行，迄今為止沒有發現任何革命性的解決方案。 潤滑劑的選擇： 考慮到要解決的問題的複雜性，鐘錶匠必須有充分的信心使用推焉用在手錶的潤滑劑，按照和鐘錶製作商所提 供的技術指引，精確地按照指示清洗產品和使用最好的潤滑油，使用多少和用在哪裡。 潤滑劑是必需要用於一個完全乾淨的表面。 機油使用到一個骯髒的或已上油的組件上是沒有用處的，這樣機油是不會保持在原位。

The lubrication The synthetic oils: They have been created, seen 1950, by the complex combination of chemical products. One distinguishes several groups of it. The first synthetic oils produced satisfied the first five requirements listed. On the other hand, no one had been interested in the actual lubricant properties that are the subject of the requirements 6, 7 and 8. Studies to this topic have been undertaken at the end of the seventies. These oils are constantly improved, the goal being to find the lubrication that rill have the longest life span. The greases: They are mixture of oils and fibrous soap that acts as sponge to keep oil. There is also a grease for watch making constituted of oil and powder of molybdenum disulfide(MoS2) used like binder. The greases are of a delicate use. They must be perfectly homogeneous before it can be used and should acts like a lubricant. For the escapement, the grease must not produce any micro-droplets under the effect of the shocks when mechanical contact is initiated. Self- lubricating material and coatings: Numerous studies are still being led, without any revolutionary solution discovered so far. The choice of lubricant: Considering the complexity of the problems to solve, the watchmaker is obliged to have a full confidence in the recommendations of the watch making lubrications, and the technical brochures provided by the watch making manufactures, indicating with precision the products of cleanings to use, the advisable lubricants, the quantities and the place where to put them. It is essential to deposit a lubricant onto a perfectly clean surface. It serves no purpose to apply a drop of oil on a dirty component or to one that has already been oiled, as the oil will not remain in place.

簡單和複雜的腕錶 精密計時錶（天文台錶）與計時碼錶 精密計時錶意思是擁有高精確度的腕錶，指機芯的 計秒運行於十五日內經過放置於不同的位置，温度 等測試，運行依然準確。此測試由一個中立的機構 C.O.S.C(Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres ) 提供。此機芯必須達到了以下要求。

機芯直徑大於9„‟„ 平均每日誤差範圍 -4 至 +6秒 機芯直徑小於9‟„‟ 平均每日誤差範圍 -5 至 +8秒

官方的天文台表證書

Simple and complication watches Chronometer and Chronograph A chronometer means watch of high precision, which indicates the second, whose movement has been tested during 15 days in different positions and different temperatures, by a neutral official organism "the C.O.S.C" (Official Swiss Center of Chronometers). The movement that are in the criteria of precision. Movement bigger than9''' -4 to +6 seconds per day Movement smaller than 9''' -5 to +8 seconds a day receive an OFFICIAL CERTIFICATE of CHRONOMETER

簡單和複雜的腕錶 精密計時錶（天文台錶）與計時碼錶 計時碼表是一個可以閱讀的時間和量度時間流逝的工具(手錶方面)，當中需要一個計時的機械裝置幫助。

腕錶具有計時碼表的功能

Simple and complication watches Chronometer and Chronograph A chronograph is an instrument(watch) with which one can read the time and measure a lapse of time, on demand, with the help of a chronograph mechanism.

Watch with chronograph

簡單和複雜的腕錶 精密計時錶（天文台錶）與計時碼錶 計時碼表是一個獨立的機械裝置添加到手錶的機芯。它是用來量度時間，應用在體育賽事，工業運作， 實驗室的實驗或所有其他的程序需要知道精確的時間的流逝。 (詳見 Zegna 20th anniversary watch).

手錶帶有追針計時碼錶功能

Simple and complication watches Chronometer and Chronograph The chronograph is a separate mechanism added to the movement of a watch. It is used to measure laps of time in sport events, industrial operations, laboratory experiments or all other application that requires knowing a precise lapse of time. (Refer to our Zegna 20th anniversary watch).

Watch with split-seconds chronograph

簡單和複雜的腕錶 手錶帶日曆顯示 基本上有兩種類型表示一個日曆錶上的日期顯示。

以日曆圈表示 日曆圈

日期

以指針表示

日期

Simple and complication watches Watch with calendar There are basically two types of display to indicate the date on a calendar watch Indication with a disc

Date disc

Date

Indication by hand

Date

簡單和複雜的腕錶 手錶帶簡單日曆顯示 帶簡單日曆的手錶顯示日子，日期，月份和月相，但它的顯示不包括在一個月的日期的變化(28, 29, 30或31的月 分) 。

換句話說，用戶的手錶具有一個簡單的日曆顯示的應該要做手動調校，在每月月底數少於 31天將有必要做手動調 校。例如2月28日或4月30日。

日子

月分

月相

日期

Simple and complication watches Watch with simple calendar The simple calendar watch indicates the day, the date, the month and the phase of the moon, but it does not make into account the variation of the days in the month (month of 28, 29, 30 or 31 days).

In other words, the user of a watch with a simple calendar mechanism should do a manual intervention at the end of each month that count less than 31 days. For example, February 28 or April 30, it will be necessary to do a manual intervention.

Day

Month

Phase of the moon

Date

簡單和複雜的腕錶 月相顯示 一個月相圓盤代表兩次月亮階段的顯示。一個合適的形狀孔徑進入錶面允許看到一個月亮的一部分， 露出了弦月，滿月或新月。

月球週期的長度是29天，12小時，44分鐘和2.8秒（29.53天）。一個月相59齒的星輪週期是29.5天。 這個誤差的結果是每月44分鐘2.8秒，或者是每年大約9小時。 即是說，3年後，這個顯示將有1天的誤差，應進行手動校正。

Simple and complication watches Indication of the phase of the moon A disc on which the moon is represented two times indicates the phase of the moon. A suitable shape aperture into the dial permits to see a part of the disc, revealing a waxing moon, a full moon or a new moon.

The length of a lunar cycle is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds (29.53 days). The length if a lunar cycle with a star wheel of 59 teeth is 29.5 days. This mistake that results from this difference is 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds per month, either close to 9 hours per year. It means that after 3 years, there will be a error of 1 day in the given indication. Then a manual correction should be undertaken.

簡單和複雜的腕錶 萬年曆 萬年曆是一個全面的日曆機械裝置，表示一天，月份和月相，並且包括月分的長度（28，29和30天），和 閏年，自動地跳轉而無須手動調校。

閏年顯示

日星輪(7齒)

月相輪(59齒)

月星輪(48齒)

日期輪(31齒)

Simple and complication watches The perpetual Calendar A perpetual calendar permits like a simple calendar mechanism, to indicate the day, the month and the phase of the moon, and ALSO takes automatically into account the length of the months (28, 29 and 30 days), even the leap years, and these without manual intervention.

Leap year counter

Day star (7 teeth)

Moon phase star (59 teeth)

Month star (48 teeth)

Date star (31 teeth)

簡單和複雜的腕錶 萬年歷功能帶有整年年份顯示

年份裝置

Simple and complication watches The perpetual calendar with complete year

Year system

簡單和複雜的腕錶 格林威治時間顯示 格林威治皇家天文台的子午線在英國的格林威治，這是世界本初子午線的時間。格林威治時間是在午夜開始的 公民時間。 由格林尼治標準時間指標的幫助，人們可以透過每個國家的相應的時區地圖，看到實際時區的時間。

格林威治時區地圖 根據圄中這個手錶,假如 格林威治時間現在是08:11 那麼中國= GMT+8 = 16:11 美國東部=GMT-5= 03:10 現在時間是10:11 = GMT+2 顯示著東歐和埃及等的時間

格林威治時針

Simple and complication watches GMT Indication Greenwich Mean time at the meridian of the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, England, which is the prime meridian of the world. GMT is a civil time beginning at midnight. With the help of the GMT indicator, one can notice every country‟s actual time accordingly with their time zones from the time zone map. .

GMT time zone map According to this watch, if the GMT now is 08:11 Then China= GMT+8 = 16:11 East coast of USA=GMT-5= 03:10 The time now 10:11 = GMT+2 Which means showing the time of East Europe, and Egypt, etc.

GMT hand

簡單和複雜的腕錶 兩地時區顯示

第二時區顯示

Simple and complication watches The two time zones watch

The second time zone

簡單和複雜的腕錶 三地時區顯示

第二時區顯示

第三時區顯示

Simple and complication watches The three time zones watch

Second time zone

Third time zone

簡單和複雜的腕錶 帶響鬧功能手錶

響鬧裝置的錶冠 (設定響鬧時間和上鏈)

鬧鍾顯示

在響鬧功能手錶，這可能是用來幫助記憶，機械裝置發布的鬧鈴聲與鬧鐘的相同。 其中一個錶冠的上鏈桿（時間設置和上鏈）是常規的的機芯部分，另外一錶冠上鏈桿部分是鬧鈴（響鬧時間設置 和上鏈）裝置的部分。

Simple and complication watches The alarm watch

Crown of the alarm mechanism(alarm time setting & Winding)

Alarm indication

In an alarm watch, which may be used as a memory aid, the mechanism which releases the alarm is identical to that in an alarm clock. One part of the movement is conventional, with its own stem (time setting and winding), and the other part of the movement is the alarm with its own stem as well (alarm time setting and winding).

簡單和複雜的腕錶 三問報時

分鐘錘

滑動鈕 小時錘

三問報時手錶

三問報時機械裝置因應需求而報時，以兩個錘子敲擊兩個不同音錘的鐘聲表示最接近的分鐘 和時間。低音錘“噹”表示小時，“叮噹”雙音代表一刻鐘(15分鐘)，高音錘“叮”表示分鐘。 例如，如果現在的時間是02:17，那麼當我們滑動按鈕，您將聽見 “噹，噹， 叮噹，叮，叮的聲音。

Simple and complication watches The minute repeater

Minute hammer

Slide Hour hammer

A minute repeater watch

The minute repeater mechanism indicates on demand, the time to the nearest minute by the sound of two hammers hitting two gongs of different pitches. The low pitch „dong‟ stand for hours, high and low pitches „ding dong‟ stand for quarters, high pitch „ding‟ stand for minutes. For example, if the time now is 02:17, then when we slide, you will here the sound „dong, dong, ding dong, ding, ding‟.

簡單和複雜的腕錶 大自鳴腕錶 大自鳴腕錶自動的敲擊時、刻和分，就像一個古老大鍾般報時。而且它擁有三問報時的相同功 能，因應要求下敲擊的時間，刻和分鐘。

通過推動大自鳴錶的按鈕啟動3種功能： 1,大自鳴 2,小自鳴(三問報時) 3,靜音

Simple and complication watches The grande sonnerie The „ grande sonnerie' strikes the hours and the quarters automatically, like a grand father clock. And it has the same characteristics as the minute repeater. It strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. By moving a push piece the grande sonnerie has 3 functions: 1, Grande sonnerie 2, Petite sonnerie (minute repeater only) 3, Silent

簡單和複雜的腕錶 旋轉調節系統 陀飛輪 A. L. Breguet, 於 1801年發明了陀飛輪系統.該設備的目的是提高手錶的準確性。轉動支架固定在秒輪軸 上，使每分鐘完整轉一圈，分散了腕錶位置垂直時的誤差率。

陀飛輪擒縱轉動支架

陀飛輪機芯

Simple and complication watches The rotating regulation system The tourbillon A. L. Breguet, created the tourbillon system in1801. The purpose of this device is made to improve the accuracy of the watch. The carriage is fixed on the second's wheel axis, makes one complete turn every minute, to average the errors of rate in the vertical positions.

Tourbillon escapement carriage

A tourbillon movement

簡單和複雜的腕錶 卡魯塞爾(迴旋木馬) 卡魯塞爾 大家可以見到游絲擺輪並不是置於轉動支架的中央。這是陀飛輪與卡魯塞爾的最大分別轉動支架被置 於間輪的匣軸上使卡魯塞爾的轉動支架有些以一分鐘完成一整圈，或有些是四至六分鐘。

Simple and complication watches The carrousel The carrousel One can see that the sprung-balance is not on the center of the carriage. This is the main difference between a tourbillon and a carrousel. The carriage is usually placed on the arbor of the intermediate wheel so that the carrousel carriage makes some of them a complete turn every one minute or 4 to 6 minutes.

簡單和複雜的腕錶 飛返系統 飛返系統 飛返系統(逆跳顯示)是以一支指針指示(顯示著時、分、秒和日期等)運行於一個圓形的扇面上,顯示於 錶面之上，但不會是一個完整的圈。

即是說當飛返指念針運行至扇形顯示面的終點時，它便會一瞬間返回起點。

飛返24小時顯示 飛返日子顯示

飛返日期顯示

飛返秒針顯示

Simple and complication watches The retrograde systems The retrograde systems A retrograde system is a system provided with a hand (of hours, minutes, seconds, calendar etc.) which moves on an arc of circle, drawn on an dial, and not on a complete circle.

Which means that when the hand reaches the end of the arc of circle, it comes back instantaneously to its starting point.

Retrograde 24hour counter

Retrograde day counter

Retrograde date counter

Retrograde seconds counter

簡單和複雜的腕錶 跳轉系統 手錶的小時於錶面一個孔徑內標示。當分針到達60分鍾時，小時瞬間跳躍到下一個數字。

小時顯示

即是說此手錶是擁有三問報時，小秒針顯示和小時跳轉顯示的複雜功能

Simple and complication watches Jumping system Watch with the hour indication appearing in an aperture made into the dial. When the minute hand arrives on 60, the hour jumps instantaneously to the next numeral.

Hour indication

So this is a watch with minute repeater, small seconds and jumping hours

腕錶的其它部分 一隻手錶的外觀，包括所有的組件添加到機芯外，這有助於： 它的最終外觀

保護機芯 機芯是如何被固定在正確的方乏和如何使用它的方式 這些組件是玻璃，錶面，指針，錶殼，橡膠圈，表冠，表冠管，按鈕和錶帶。

玻璃 表冠 錶殼主體 錶面

表冠管 指針

機芯 機芯墊圈

橡膠圈

底蓋玻璃

底蓋

Exterior of a watch The exterior of a watch comprises all the components added to the movement which contribute to: Its final appearance

The protection of the movement The way it is fixed in place and how it is used These components are the glass, the dial, the hands, the case, the gaskets, the crown and its tube, the push-piece and the bracelet.

Glass Crown Mid-case Dial

Crown tube Hands

Movement Movement ring

Gasket

Case back glass

Case back cover

腕錶的其它部分 製造錶殼的材料 用來製造錶殼的材料必須符合下列條件： 它必須是防銹。 它必須對汗水和正常環境條件下的接觸不會受到影響。 它必須堅硬且耐磨損。 在奢侈鐘錶業的手錶的錶殼一般由不銹鋼，鈦，銀，各種顏色的金和鉑。 但現在，設計者使用了很多不同的材料合成的材質，例如陶瓷，木材等。 不銹鋼: 不銹鋼是理想的材料用作手錶的錶殼。其韌性和允許其耐性達到了耐久和不過時的產品。在另一方面，它是 較困難和昂貴去製造的。

黃銅： 銅是容易製造，而且很適合以電鍍處理覆蓋。黃銅製作的錶殼價格低廉，但其壽命是有限的。只要保護層消 失，黃銅被摩擦或磨損，腐蝕便會非常迅速。 鈦: 它是一種稍帶黑的金屬。及其氧化物是藍寶石的著色劑。鈦硝酸鹽是使用在PVD塗層錶殼上。 陶瓷： 在希臘，“keramos”這個詞是指粘土（波特的土壤）。由於這種古老的起源，陶瓷經歷了，並仍在進行相當 大的演變。他們的成分複雜，是無機，礦物，金屬和結晶物質。

腕錶的其它部分 Material used to make watch case The materials used to make watch cases must fulfill the following conditions: It must be rust proof.

It must not be affected by contact with sweat and normal environmental conditions. It must be hard-wearing. In the luxury watch industry the cases of the watches are generally made out of stainless steel, titanium, silver, gold of various color and platinum. But nowadays, the creators use a lot of different materials like synthetic matters, ceramics, wood, etc The stainless steel: The stainless steel is the ideal material to make watch cases. Its toughness and its resistance permit to achieve a resistant and everlasting product. In the other hand it is difficult and expensive to manufacture. The brass: Brass is easy to manufacture, and it is suitable to be covered by galvanic treatment. The watch cases made out of brass are inexpensive, but their life span is limited. As soon as the protective layer wears off, by rubbing or abrasion, the brass will corroded very quickly. The titanium: It is a blackish metal. Its oxide is a coloring agent for the sapphire. The nitrate of titanium is used in the P.V.D coating of the watch cases. The ceramics: In Greek, the word "keramos" means clay (potter's earth). Since this very old origin, the ceramics have undergone, and still undergo, a considerable evolution. They are a complex composition of inorganic, minerals, metallic and crystalline substance.

腕錶的其它部分 貴金屬 建議使用在手錶製作上的貴金屬包括黃金，鉑，鈀和銀。貴金屬從來沒有使用過其純淨的形式。 他們總是合金混與其他金屬，獲得更硬和更容易可加工的材料，並改變其顏色。 貴金屬貿易已在所有國家，很長一段時間受立法的。海關服務，控制貴金屬以及合金標準的進口和出口皆被立 法保護。立法存在於每一個國家和違法者將受到懲罰。 瑞士有一個聯邦組織負責貴金屬的管制。它是一個中立的組織，沒有任何財務利益。這個組織的主要任務是， 以保護公眾和製造商免受欺詐和不正當競爭。 成分含量辦事處成立在部分國家，由專業鑒定家對金屬進行必要的分析，符合： 評估的貴重金屬的合金量，為如果達到標準的同一塊金屬刻上印記 檢查所有標誌、印記是正確的 每一件由貴重金屬製成的製品，應當承擔下列標誌和印記的責任。 1, 製造商的商標，這是與當局登記;這表明生產的對象和保障標準。 2, 標準的標記，這表明法律標準。 3, 成分標誌，這是由檢測辦公室蓋章。這是強制在所有錶殼含有貴重金屬和其他非必要的物質。自1995年8月1 日，一個聖伯納德狗的頭的標誌已在瑞士通用，代表所有的金屬和所有標準。

Exterior of a watch The precious metals Precious metals recommended for use in watch making include gold, platinum, palladium and silver. Precious metals are never used in their pure form. They are always alloyed with other metals, to obtain a harder and more easily machinable material, and to change their color. Trade in precious metals has been the subject of legislation in all countries for a long time. As a rule, customs services control the import and export of precious metals as well as standards of alloys. Legislation exists in every country and offenders are punished. Switzerland has a federal office that deals with precious metals. It is a neutral organization with no financial interests whatsoever. The main tasks of this office are to protect the public from fraud and to protect the manufacturers from unfair competition. Assay offices are to be found in various parts of the country, where professional assayers carry out the necessary analyses to: Assess the amount of precious metal in an alloy and to hallmark the piece if it comes to standard. Check that the other hallmarks are correct Every object made out of precious metal should bear the following marks in close proximity.

1. The maker' s mark, which is registered with the authorities; this indicates who manufactured the object and guarantees the standard. 2. The standard mark, which indicates the legal standard. 3. The hallmark, which is stamped by the assay office. This is compulsory on all watch cases which contain a precious metal and optional on other objects. Since august 1, 1995 a hallmark in the form of the head of a St Bernard dog has been used in Switzerland for all metals and all standards.

腕錶的其它部分 標誌的種類

聖班納德犬標誌

Exterior of a watch Types of hallmarks

St. Bernard hallmark

腕錶的其它部分 標準（純度）商標

黃金 18克拉黃金:純黃金750%,銀125%,銅125% 18克拉玫瑰金:純黃金750%,銀45%,銅205% 18克拉白金:純黃金750%,鈀125%,銅95%,銀30%

銀 925純銀:純銀925%,銅75%

鉑 鉑:純鉑950%,鈀,鈷、銅5%

Exterior of a watch The standard (purity)marks

Gold 18 carats yellow: pure yellow gold 750%, silver 125%, copper 125%

18 carats pink gold: pure yellow gold 750%, silver 45%, copper205% 18 carats white gold: pure yellow gold 750%, palladium125%, copper 95%, silver 30%

Silver Sterling silver: pure silver 925%, copper 75%

Platinum Platinum: pure platinum 950%, palladium, cobalt, copper 5%

腕錶的其它部分 製錶商的印記

Exterior of a watch Maker‟s marks

腕錶的其它部分 機芯墊圈 機芯墊圈 墊圈是裝配圍繞著機芯，與機芯同被放置到錶殼內。它可以是鋼，黃銅或合成材料製成。 它是用來填補錶殼和機芯之間的空間。它可以使不同形狀的錶殼，裝配不同形狀的機芯。

Exterior of a watch The casing ring The casing ring The casing ring is a ring, which is fitted around the movement when it is placed into the case. It can be made of steel, brass or synthetic material. It is used to fill the space that is between the watch case and the movement. It allows to fit a movement of a different shape of the case.

腕錶的其它部分 錶冠 錶冠 表冠擰在錶壩上。這組上鏈桿配置在錶殼的側面的孔上。如果這個孔不密封，濕度，灰塵和微細的 衣服纖維將進入機芯內。

錶冠連錶壩

錶冠管 連接管

錶殼

Exterior of a watch The crowns The crown The winding crown is screwed onto the winding stem. The winding stem fits into a hole in the side of the case. If this hole were not sealed, humidity, dust and fine fibers from clothes will get into the movement.

Crown with Winding stem Crown tube

Joint

Watch case

腕錶的其它部分 橡膠圈 橡膠圈 橡膠圈是置於兩個零件之間的封印確保了防水的性能例如錶冠與錶冠管,或置於兩個固定組件之間，例如錶殼 與底蓋。

原則上，一個橡膠圈必須時刻富彈性和不應該被壓縮，以達致其功能。 在這種情況下，它應該是被潤滑允許它滑動。底蓋的橡膠圈往往被壓縮到最大程度。在這種情況下，最好是 每次打開手錶後都要更換它們，因為它們可能已被扭曲了。

橡膠圈

Exterior of a watch The gaskets The gaskets Gaskets ensure a water-resistant seal between two parts, the winding crown and the crown tube, for example, or between two fixed parts, such as the back and the case.

In principle, a gasket must always be elastic and should never be compressed if it is to fulfill its function. In this case it should be lubricated to allow it to slide. Back cover gaskets are often designed to be compressed to a maximum. In this case, it is preferable to change them each time the watch is opened, since they may have been distorted.

A gasket

腕錶的其它部分 黏合劑 在鐘錶製造使用黏合劑有兩個目的 1.去連接一個組件：例如錶冠與錶壩 2.要達致密封的作用：例如黏合玻璃與錶圈之間 實際上黏合劑通常是同時用於兩種用途之下。經常被使用的黏合劑的類型都是厭氧的(它會在沒有空氣的情 況下凝固).這就解釋了為什麼黏合劑罐總是只有半滿(loctite牌).

Exterior of a watch The cements Cement is used for two purposes in watch making: 1. To fix a part: e.g. the winding crown to the winding stem 2. To create a seal: e.g. between the glass and the bezel Cement is in fact often used for both purposes at the same time. The type of cement used is frequently anaerobic (it solidifies in the absence of air). This explains why jars of such cement are always only half full (loctite).

腕錶的其它部分 玻璃

通常手錶的錶殼，由三個不同的部分組式：錶圈，主殼和底蓋。跟據構造這三個部分可以為一體的。第 四個錶殼不可缺少的部分，是手錶的玻璃。 合成玻璃 由於他們是相對較軟的材料製造，合成玻璃都容易磨損。大部分合成玻璃都是穹形的.它們透過自身的彈 性被牢固地裝在錶圈內圓形凹槽的周圍。 礦物和藍寶石水體玻璃 相當堅硬的物質，可以劃傷礦物晶體，而只有藍寶石或鑽石可以劃傷的藍寶石水晶玻璃。這些錶玻璃是 沒有彈性，這意味著它們要被黏合在錶圈的凹槽，或由人工合成的膠圈固定。

藍寶石水體玻璃 製造一個簡單的藍寶石玻璃需要二十個工序。而在製造處理這些玻璃時必須加倍 謹慎。它們必須是100％純淨。就算是微細的灰塵殘留在藍寶石玻璃上會也顯示 到。但它僅僅是在製造時，如果有一個內含物，亦只會在玻璃拋光後我們才可以 看見。

Exterior of a watch The glasses

Usually the case of a watch is formed of three distinct parts: the bezel, the mid-case and the back case. These three parts can be united according to the constructions. The fourth indispensable part of the case is the glass of the watch. Synthetic glasses

Since they are made of relatively soft material, synthetic glasses are easily scratched. Most synthetic glass is domed. They are fitted and secured in a circular groove around the inside of the bezel through their own elasticity. Mineral & sapphire crystals Fairly hard substance can scratch mineral crystal, while only sapphire or a diamond can scratch a sapphire crystal. These watch glasses are not elastic, it means that they have to be cemented into the bezel groove or fixed by a synthetic gasket.

The sapphire glass Twenty operations are necessary to manufacture a simple sapphire glass. The greater care must be taken while handling these glasses during the manufacturing. They must be 100% pure. The smallest dust left in the sapphire would show on the glass. But it is only at the end of the manufacturing , when the glass is polished, that we can see if there is an inclusion.

腕錶的其它部分 錶面 錶面基本上是一個平面的黃銅製碟片，有時形成斜面的或半球形面的，由錶盤一側的腳穩定在機芯上。

Exterior of a watch The dials Dials are generally flat brass discs, beveled or domed, which are fixed onto the dial side of the movement by dial feet.

腕錶的其它部分 錶針 錶針 手錶的錶針，並不是簡單的指針。像其他的外部零件，錶針的形狀和外觀給予了手錶不同的風格。 錶針是由銅，鐵，金，鋁或特殊合金製做，可鍍鋅或塗漆，氧化。 18克拉的錶針不予以加工。 1875年Nemitz發明磷光劑硫化鈣，是指針的第一個發光材料。

Exterior of a watch The hands The hands The hands of a watch are not simply indicators. Like the other exterior parts, the shape and appearance of the hands help to give a watch certain style. Hands are made of brass, steel, gold, aluminum or special alloys and may be galvanized or painted, oxidized. 18 carats hands are left untreated. In 1875 Nemitz invents phosphorescent sulfur-calcium as the first luminous material for hands.

腕錶的其它部分 錶帶 一條錶帶從準備皮料到最後的整理工作，必須經過60多個不同的工序。 由於生產過程眾多，因此組織了一系列專門的工場，例如像挑選皮料，切帶，分割和配對，填充，縫合， 整理和幾個最後階段，這意味著它需要一個相當長的時間來產生一個錶帶。

牛皮

鴕鳥皮 柔順尚且紮實，鴕鳥皮 不規則的圖案與羽毛 孔標誌著最大的羽毛 的位置。

鯊魚皮 獨特的圖案。一般來說， 鯊魚脊是較皮膚為淺色， 或變黑。

Exterior of a watch The leather straps A single strap must go through more than 60 different stages, from preparing the skin to the final finishing touches. The manufacturing process is therefore organized as a series of specialized workshops, such like choose the skin, cutting the straps, splitting and paring, padding, stitching, finishing and several final stages. Which means it takes a considerable amount of time to produce just one strap.

Cow leather

Ostrich skin Supple yet solid, ostrich skin is irregularly patterned with quill marks which mark the position of the biggest feathers.

Shark skin Unique for its pattern. Generally speaking, the ridges are died one shade lighter than the color of the skin, or blackened.

腕錶的其它部分 錶帶

短吻鱷魚皮 短吻鱷和其他鱷魚的分別可以 從其肚子正方形或長方形的鱗 片和它側翼的圓鱗片 區分。

開曼鱷魚皮 開曼的皮膚有或多或少 圓形鱗，矩形的鱗比那 些短吻鱷魚少。

蜥蜴皮 它的皮膚是巨抗性，由非常小的 鱗片組成，在身上較中間的位置 鱗片呈方形，在偏離中間的位置 側較圓。

Exterior of a watch The leather straps

Alligator skin The alligator can be distinguished from other crocodilians by the Square or rectangular scales on Its belly and the round scale on Its flanks.

Caiman skin Caiman skin has more or less round scales, which are less rectangular than those of the alligator

Lizard skin Its akin is resistant, and can be recognized by the very small, round Scale at the center, which become Square towards the edges of the skin.