badminton

July 28, 2017 | Author: Christine Jane | Category: Rotation Around A Fixed Axis, Racquet Sports, Sports, Nature, Leisure
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The badminton racket handle has eight bevels: the two wide bevels, the two narrowbevels, and the four diagonal bevels. A wide bevel

A narrow bevel

Colouring the diagonal bevels For the grip photographs in this guide, I have painted all the diagonal bevels blue so that they show up against the yellow colour of the racket handle. A diagonal bevel

The diagonal bevels are painted blue

Numbering the bevels Numbering the bevels

At the end of a badminton racket handle, there is a cap, which is usually marked with the manufacturer’s logo. Imagine that this cap is an octagonal clockface. In this guide, I number the bevels anticlockwise, starting from one of narrow bevels. Since the racket handle is symmetrical, I only number the first four bevels. The other four are just repetitions. So bevel 1 is a narrow bevel, bevel 2 is a diagonal bevel, bevel 3 is a wide bevel, andbevel 4 is another diagonal bevel. Then the numbering starts again with another bevel 1.

Fundamental grips 1. Basic grips 2. Use the basic grip on both sides of the body, forehand and backhand. For forehands you hit with the front of the hand leading, whereas for backhands you hit with the back of the hand leading. Forehands feel like hitting with your palm, and backhands feel like hitting with your knuckles. 3. A common mistake in coaching is to teach one forehand grip (the basic grip) and onebackhand grip (the thumb grip). This is incorrect. For backhands at the side of your body, use the basic grip. 4. You may think of forehands as hitting with the front face of the racket, and backhands as hitting with the back face. 5. When you use the basic grip for backhands, make sure the thumb remains extended (straight) throughout the hitting action. This provides support. If you let the thumb curl instead, your hold on the racket will not be stable enough: you will have a floppy backhand.

6. Learning the basic grip

7. The V-shape, marked in red

8. 9. Hold the badminton racket as though you are lightly shaking hands with the handle, or as though you are lightly holding a blade, such as a knife, a sword, or an axe. 10. Look at the gap between your thumb and first finger; it should form a shape like the letter V. The bottom point of this V-shape should not be exactly on top of the badminton racket handle: it should be placed towards the diagonal bevel on the left, bevel 2. 11. Your hold on the badminton racket should be relaxed (not tight).

Common errors A fist-like grip

A fist-like badminton grip prevents you from using your fingers effectively. Notice there is no V-shape; instead, the webbing between your thumb and first finger makes a rounded Ushape. To correct the error, relax your grip and spread your fingers gently.

Key tip

If you finish your shot with a fist-like grip, that's okay. It’s only an error if you start with a fist-like grip. Error

Correct

V-shape directly on top This is commonly taught, but it’s incorrect. Placing the V-shape directly over the narrow bevel, bevel 1, leaves you with a slight panhandle, which will cause subtle problems in your badminton strokes: for example, when playing a straight forehand clear from your forehand corner, you will tend to hit the shuttlecock out at the side. To correct the error, move the V towards the diagonal bevel, bevel 2, instead. Error

Correct

Pointing the index finger

Extending the index finger, so that it points straight up the badminton racket, will make your hand tense. This will severely limit your stroke skills, and may also lead to a strain injury. To correct the error, allow the finger to rest in a more relaxed position. It’s still good to have a gap between the index and middle fingers; just don’t point the index finger straight up. Error

Correct

Use this grip to play forehand strokes when the shuttlecock is well in front of your body and higher than the net. For example, you can use this grip to play a forehand net kill. This grip is also used for playing late backhands. Do not use this grip to play overhead forehands: use the basic grip instead.

Learning the panhandle grip

Forehand net kill



Place your badminton racket on the floor. Now pick it up without turning the handle at all: just place your hand over the handle, lift the racket off the ground, and wrap your fingers around the handle. Your hold on the badminton racket should be relaxed (not tight). This grip is called panhandle because it is similar to holding a frying pan. Left



Right



In front



Behind



Show all Panhandle grip photographs

Common errors Not spreading the fingers Players often clump all their fingers together at the bottom of the badminton racket handle. This means they will have less control of the racket head. To correct the error, relax your grip and spread your fingers gently. Error

Correct

When to use the thumb grip Use this grip to play backhand strokes when the shuttlecock is in front of your body. For example, you can use this grip to play a backhand net kill. This grip is also used for playing late forehands. When the shuttlecock is at the side of your body rather than in front, the basic gripwill be better than the thumb grip.

Learning the thumb grip

Backhand net kill

Place your thumb behind the badminton racket handle, so that it points along the wide bevel, bevel 3, at a slight diagonal angle. Only the pad of your thumb should be touching the handle (there should be a gap). Your hold on the badminton racket should be relaxed (not tight). 

Left



Right



Behind



Show all

Thumb grip photographs

A distinctive wrist movement A correct thumb grip causes you to use the wrist in a distinctive way: you should feel that you are pushing the badminton racket from behind, using your thumb. The anatomical name for this wrist movement is radio-ulnar deviation. Its range of movement is small: less than 90 degrees. So when you use the thumb grip, your wrist movement is restricted. Backswing: radial deviation

Forwards swing: ulnar deviation

Because the thumb grip restricts wrist movement, it should not be used for powerful strokes such as backhand clears. Using a full thumb grip prevents you from playing powerful strokes, because your forearm rotation is inhibited: your wrist becomeslocked part way through forearm rotation.

Common errors Flattened thumb

Pressing the thumb flat against the racket handle introduces tension into your badminton grip and prevents you getting power from the interaction of thumb and fingers. To correct the error, relax your grip and allow most of the thumb to come off the handle suface. Only the upper part of the thumb should touch the handle; there should be a gap at the base. Error

Correct

When to use the bevel grip This badminton grip is good for many backhand strokes, especially for overhead backhands such as backhand clears. The thumb placement can help you gain extra leverage for backhand power.

Basic or bevel? Backhand clear, using the bevel grip

The bevel grip is only a slight adjustment from the basic grip, so the choice between them is subtle. Often either of these badminton grips will work well. For forehands, the basic grip is usually better. The bevel grip is less effective for power forehands, because it restricts forehand grip tightening. The bevel grip offers finer fingertip control, however, so it can be useful for soft strokes such as net shots, or strokes where you want to slice around the shuttlecock, such as sliced drop shots. For backhands, both grips can be effective; if in doubt, use the bevel grip. Whichever grip you choose, remember that the thumb must remain straight throughout the shot (otherwise you get a floppy backhand).

Learning the bevel grip

Start with the basic grip. Without changing the angle of the badminton racket in your hand, place the pad of your thumb onto the diagonal bevel, bevel 2. 

Left



Right



Above



Show all Bevel grip photographs

Comparing the basic and bevel grips The basic grip

The bevel grip

Changing badminton grips You can practise changing grip at any time: all you need is a badminton racket. You can also practise changing grip by hitting the shuttlecock against a wall, alternating between forehand and backhand shots. After you play a stroke, it’s often helpful to return to the basic grip: the basic grip helps you change quickly to other badminton grips. Another option is the bevel grip. In my view, the bevel grip is slightly quicker for making grip changes, although not quite as versatile for hitting the shuttlecock. If you are forced to hit with the bevel grip before you have time to change, then that could be a disadvantage compared to the basic grip.

Key tip

Remember, the bevel grip is very similar to the basic grip. Either of these grips is good for changing to other badminton grips. If you hold the racket using the panhandle grip or the thumb grip, then it is much harder to change quickly to a different badminton grip. For the most effective grip changes, hold the badminton racket lightly in your fingers. You can then change the angle of the racket by rolling the handle between your thumb and first finger.

Details of badminton grip changes When you change between badminton grips, you need to start the rolling and then let go the racket handle momentarily. This allows you to reposition your fingers around the new angle of the badminton racket. You can coordinate this with the movements of your arm and body, so that the badminton racket snaps into place without excessive manipulation by the fingers (which is slow). For example, when you play a backhand net kill, change to the thumb grip as you bring your badminton racket up and across. This is also helpful when you need to change between short and long grips (seegrip length). For example, you can release the racket handle as you bring your arm back for a smash,

letting the badminton racket slip from a short grip to a long grip. The same grip change can be achieved by walking your fingers down the handle, but that method is slower. When you change from the basic grip to the panhandle or thumb grips, you have a choice of which direction to turn the badminton racket. Normally, you should turn itanticlockwise for panhandle and clockwise for the thumb grip (clock directions as seen looking from the racket butt towards the head), because these directions are more coordinated with your wrist movement, and they also help you to use in betweenbadminton grips (such as a partial panhandle).

So far, all the photos in this guide show the hand holding the badminton racket towards the end of the handle. This is a long grip. You can also use a short grip, so that the hand is towards the cone (where the badminton racket handle and shaft meet).

Advantages of long badminton grips A long thumb grip

Long badminton grips let you make more powerful strokes, provided that you have time to make a long enough swing. Long badminton grips also give you a longer reach, so that you can take the shuttlecock earlier or higher.

Advantages of short badminton grips A short thumb grip

Short badminton grips generally improve your control of the stroke and assist quick responses. If you only have time for a short swing, then a short grip will give you more powerthan a long grip. (There are mechanical reasons for these differences between short and long grips.)

When to use long badminton grips

Smashing with a long grip

Use a long badminton grip for strokes in the rearcourt. In particular, you should make sure that you use a long grip for smashes and clears, because a long grip gives you more power. Long grips can also be useful for many strokes outside the rearcourt, including strokes at the net, because they give you a longer reach. The small difference in reach might seem insignificant, but taking the shuttlecock early at the net is crucial: a fraction of a second’s delay can turn a winning net kill into a mere net shot. Generally, professional singles players will use a long grip in all parts of the court. Short grips are sometimes used in singles, but much less commonly than in doubles.

Exceptions In some situations, a long grip may cramp your badminton strokes, because the shuttlecock is too close to your body. In this case, use a short grip to give yourself room to play the stroke. This can often happen when you return a flick serve in doubles.

When to use short badminton grips Net play with a short grip

Short badminton grips are useful in the forecourt and midcourt. Short grips are mainly used in doubles, especially by the forward player when a pair is attacking. Generally, short grips are not used in singles, even at the net.

Exceptions Some elite singles players prefer a short grip for spinning net shots, sacrificing reach for control; many players will use a short grip for low or flick serves. Even in doubles, a long grip is sometimes better at the net than a short grip. This is generally true whenever you need extra reach, such as when you are travelling forwards to kill a loose drop shot.

A warning Many players use short grips too much. This is especially a problem with juniors who copy elite men’s doubles players. Introduce short badminton grips into your game gradually, starting with the backhand low serve in doubles, and progressing to doubles net play. Then try using short grips for midcourt drives. Be careful: avoid using short grips for singles or in the rearcourt.

The basic grip grip works well for overhead forehands that are level with your body. When the shuttlecock has travelled behind you, however, you need to shift towards a thumb grip.

Smashing from behind the body

This change in angle is necessary in order to hit the shuttlecock straight. If you don’t adjust your badminton grip, then the shuttlecock will go out at the side.

The thumb position

   

When you use a thumb grip for forehands, you should normally avoid having a big gap between the thumb and the badminton racket handle. Instead, allow the thumb to rest along the badminton racket handle; this will free up your wrist for more natural forehand movements. Think of this as adjusting the angle of the basic grip: the angle is more like the thumb grip, but the finger placements remain similar to the basic grip. Left Right In front Show all Detailed photographs

Comparing the normal basic grip with the adjusted version This is only an example of adjusting your badminton grip. How much you actually change the angle will depend on where the shuttlecock is. Normal basic grip

Adjusted basic grip

The bevel grip grip works well for overhead backhands that are level with your body. When the shuttlecock has travelled behind you, however, you need to shift towards a panhandle grip. Clearing from behind the body

    

This change in angle is necessary in order to hit the shuttlecock straight. If you don’t adjust your badminton grip, then the shuttlecock will go out at the side. Placing the thumb on the side of the badminton racket handle, bevel 1, can help you gain some leverage for backhand power. Think of this as adjusting the angle of the bevel grip. Right Left In front Behind Show all Detailed photographs

Comparing the normal bevel grip with the adjusted version This is only an example of adjusting your badminton grip. How much you actually change the angle will depend on where the shuttlecock is. Normal bevel grip

Adjusted bevel grip

In an ideal situation, the shuttlecock will be somewhat in front of you when you play a forehand smash. In this case, it is natural to adjust the basic grip very slightly towards panhandle. Smashing in front of the body

Bear in mind, however, that the adjustment should be small. A full panhandle is nevergood for forehand overheads. If the shuttlecock has dropped too low, however, you will need to shift even farther towards panhandle: your smash will, necessarily, be very flat — almost a drive. This type of badminton grip adjustment will probably happen naturally. The difficulty is usually stopping players from shifting too much towards panhandle! Also, remember that this will not work if the shuttlecock is level with or behind your body. Make sure that you don’t use this slight panhandle as a substitute for the basic grip: your clears, drop shots, and some of your smashes will suffer.

Key tip

 

Be careful! Overuse of this badminton grip will have disastrous consequences for your technique. Remember: This only works when the shuttlecock is in front. The shift towards panhandle is subtle.

Comparing the normal basic grip with the adjusted version This is only an example of adjusting your badminton grip. How much you actually change the angle will depend on where the shuttlecock is. Normal basic grip

Adjusted basic grip

Which badminton grip

Forehand serves Forehand serve  —  singles

Use the basic grip for all forehand serves. In singles, the badminton racket is usually held with a long grip, so that you can play an effective high serve. You may prefer to use a short grip for low serves, but be aware that your opponent might observe the change in grip length and guess that you will serve low. In this case, a surprise flick serve could be effective. In doubles, use a short grip. Consider using a backhand serve instead: all professional doubles players serve backhand.

Backhand serves

Backhand serve  —  doubles

Use a short thumb grip for backhand serves in doubles. Using a short grip helps you to make deceptive flick serves, because you can suddenly increase the speed of your racket. In singles, I also recommend using a short grip; but remember that after serving, you should change to a long basic grip.

You cannot return all serves using the same badminton grip. You need to be able to change grip quickly, especially in doubles. Using a basic grip will help you change quickly to other grips.

Doubles

Ready to attack the serve

Doubles receivers stand close to the short service line, in order to attack the low serve. They need to react immediately to three different types of serve: low, flick, and drive. Using a short badminton grip can help you react more quickly and create power with a short hitting action. Most professional players use a short grip for receiving, but some use a long grip. The most common use of a long grip seems to be for the man in mixed doubles; the man usually tries to retreat from the forecourt after playing his low serve return, and using a long grip may help him play the next shot. Hold the badminton racket lightly in your fingers, so that you can change the angle by turning the handle between your index finger and thumb. Don’t hold the badminton racket too loosely, however, because your hold must be stable enough for reacting instantly to drive serves.

Using the basic grip Ready with the basic grip

The basic grip is flexible: it can help you change quickly to other grips. For example, to return your opponent’s low serve with a drive, you need a thumb grip when the serve comes to your left and a panhandle gripwhen the serve comes to your right. The angle of the basic grip is between these two grips, so it helps you change to either of them quickly. You may prefer the bevel grip to the basic grip. The only difference is thumb placement; the angle is the same, and both choices are good for changing to other badminton grips.

Moving towards a thumb grip Adjusted towards a thumb grip

When receiving serve, some players prefer to adjust their grip towards a thumb grip. This is useful mainly in the right service court, where a thumb grip is needed for most replies to a straight low serve. The main purpose is to improve your readiness for the straight low serve. A secondary benefit is that this adjustment can improve your readiness for flick serves: you will need to smash when the shuttlecock is behind you, soshifting towards a thumb grip is necessary. If you choose to adjust towards a thumb grip, remember that all your flick and drive serve returns should still be played with a forehand hitting action. You should not turn the backhand side of your badminton racket to face the server (as if preparing for a backhand net kill). Biasing towards a thumb grip has one main disadvantage: it’s harder to switch to panhandle. In the right service court, however, a panhandle grip is mainly used for returning wide low serves. Since the wide serve takes longer (because it travels farther), you may have enough time to change your badminton grip. In the left service court, several returns to the straight low serve require a panhandle grip. If you bias your grip towards a thumb grip, then these returns will be more difficult.

Moving towards a panhandle grip In the left service court, some players prefer to adjust their grip very slightly towards apanhandle grip. The adjustment is subtle, much like a smash grip adjustment. For example, I’ve seen Donna Kellogg use this method. She also turned the forehand side of her racket to face the net. Both of these adaptations are ways to help you cover the straight low serve better. This grip adjustment has much the same rationale as moving towards the thumb grip in the right service court: you’re trying to improve your readiness for the straight low serve.

Which is better? Most professional players appear to use a basic grip, but some move towards a thumb grip. A few players move towards a panhandle grip. Experiment with the different options, and see which you prefer. You may find that you prefer a slightly different badminton grip for each service court. While you experiment, be sensitive to how your choice of badminton grip may predispose you to certain replies, and prejudice you against others. Try to find a compromise that gives you a complete range of service returns. A full thumb grip, as used for a backhand serve, is not a good idea. This grip is not flexible enough: astute opponents should serve to your forehand side; they could also try drive serves. Similarly, a full panhandle grip is a terrible idea. Astute opponents should serve to your backhand side, or simply play a flick serve.

Singles

Receiving in singles  —  a long grip

Follow the advice above as for doubles, but use a long grip instead of a short grip.

The badminton grip for net kills depends on how tight the shuttlecock is to the net.

When you have room (and time) to swing Room to swing

If the shuttlecock is not too close to the net, then a greatly shortened smash action is often the best technique. For forehands, use a similar grip as forsmashing: the basic grip, often shifted towards a panhandle grip. Similarly, use a bevel grip for backhands, often shifted towards a thumb grip.

Tight net kills

Tight net kill

If the shuttlecock is tighter to the net, then the hitting action must be made shorter to avoid touching the net: the normal arm rotation cannot be used. Use a short forwards tapping action instead, with a panhandle grip for forehands and a thumb grip for backhands. The panhandle grip is also appropriate whenever the shuttlecock is well in front of you —  even if you have room to swing, you might not be far enough forwards to use a basic grip.

Extremely tight net kills

Brush net kill

If the shuttlecock is just trickling over the net, then only a brush net kill will avoid touching the net. A brush net kill involves swiping the racket sideways along the net, to brush the shuttlecock over. The grip is approximately panhandle for forehands and thumb for backhands, but in both cases it’s helpful to angle the badminton racket slightly inwards: the brushing action is always towards the middle of the court.

Drives When the shuttlecock is level with your body, use the basic grip or bevel grip. When the shuttlecock is in front of your body, move towards a panhandle grip for forehands and a thumb grip for backhands.

Drives from the rearcourt

Forehand drive from the rearcourt

In the rearcourt, you will be hitting drives with the shuttlecock beside you (neither in front nor behind). You will also need more power for these drives, because they travel a longer distance. Using the basic grip or the bevel grip allows you to hit the shuttlecock straight. These badminton grips also allow you to get plenty of power from arm rotation. Using a long badminton grip will usually be better here.

Drives from the net Forehand drive from the net

At the net, you will hit drives with the shuttlecock well in front of your body. You don’t need much power for these drives. In order to hit the shuttlecock straight, use a panhandle grip for forehands and a thumb grip for backhands. Use a short hitting action for accuracy and quick reactions. In doubles, the grip will normally be short. In singles, the grip should be long for maximum reach.

Drives from the midcourt

Half-court drive

The technique for these drives will vary a lot depending on where the shuttlecock is. Most often, the technique will be a compromise between the rearcourt method and the net method: the badminton grip will be somewhere between those extremes. These drives are often called half-courtdrives. Adjust your badminton grip so that you can hit the shuttlecock straight. For a forehand, it will vary between a basic grip and a panhandle grip. The farther in front the shuttlecock is, the closer you should move towards panhandle. For a backhand, it will vary between a basic/bevel grip and a thumb grip. The farther in front the shuttlecock is, the closer you should move towards a thumb grip. As a general rule, you should use a shorter hitting action the closer you are to the net. Remember that you must always compromise between power and quickness: a long swing gives you lots of power, but a short swing lets you react faster. In doubles, you can also use a shorter grip as you approach the net.

Pushes

Pushes use the same badminton grips as for drives, but with a softer hitting action.

Forehand lifts Forehand lift

For forehand lifts, use the basic grip. This will be effective both at the net and from the midcourt. For some deceptive lifts from the net in singles, you may find it helpful to adjust your badminton grip slightly towards panhandle. Backhand deceptive lifts follow the same principle, but move towards a full thumb grip (see below).

Backhand lifts

For backhand lifts, you may need either a basic grip, a thumb grip, or a bevel grip. For most lifts, I recommend the bevel grip, perhaps with a slight shift towards the thumb grip. The bevel (or basic) grip generally allows more freedom of movement in the wrist and forearm than the thumb grip.

Key tip

Whichever grip you use, remember that the thumb should stay straight when you hit a backhand (don’t curl it around the handle).

Lifts from the net Deceptive backhand lift

For lifts from the net, a thumb grip is often best, especially if the shuttlecock is directly in front of you. In particular, a thumb grip is useful for playing deceptive lifts in singles (hold and flick). The idea is to use as little arm movement as possible, delaying your lift until the last moment so that your opponent thinks you are playing a net shot. This deceptive lift is most effective when you hit it shallow instead of high: you deprive your opponent of time. You don’t need much power for a shallow lift. Since you don’t need much power, you don’t need much arm rotation: this shot is mainly in the fingers. A thumb grip is not always the best choice at the net, however. For example, suppose you want to play a crosscourt lift when the shuttlecock is well to your left. In this case, the stroke is more natural using the basic grip or bevel grip, because the thumb grip does not let the wrist move freely enough (making it hard to achieve the crosscourt angle). If the shuttlecock is even farther to the left, you will need to shift towards a panhandle grip with the thumb on the side of the handle (bevel 1).

Key tip

Don’t assume that the thumb grip is always best. Be flexible with your badminton grip, so that you can adjust for different angles.

Which badminton grip for smash defence? Home> Articles> Grips guide> Which grip? > Which badminton grip for smash defence?  Previous page  Next page

React quickly When your opponent smashes, you have very little time to change your badminton grip. So which grip should you use while you are waiting for the smash? As a general guideline, use the basic grip or bevel grip. Smash defence, using the basic grip

These grips are excellent for lifting the shuttlecock, with either a backhand or forehand action. Personally, I like to make a slight adjustment so that the basic grip is shifted farther towards the thumb grip. With this adjustment, the V shape rests more directly over bevel 2 (its normal position is over the edge between bevel 1 and bevel 2). I find this adjustment makes both backhand and forehand lifts easier.

Key tip Many players use a full thumb grip for backhand smash defence. This badminton grip restricts the use of your forearm muscles, making it harder to achieve good height and depth on your lifts.

Details Make sure your badminton grip is relaxed. You may find it helpful to shake the badminton racket lightly up and down in your fingers while you wait for the smash. In doubles, use a short grip: this will allow you to flick the shuttlecock more powerfully with a very short swing. In singles, the smash is normally returned with a block to the net; lifting or driving the shuttlecock is rarely useful, and so the benefits of a short grip are usually wasted in singles. Using a long grip gives you more reach, which is important in singles because your defence must cover the entire court width.

I suggest a long grip for singles defence; but if you want to try drives or lifts then a short grip may be better.

Changing your badminton grip after your opponent smashes Although you rarely have time for a complete rearrangement of your badminton grip, you often can make small changes before you hit the shuttlecock. These small changes can help you play different types of replies to the smash, and can also help you control the angle of your shot. For example, moving farther towards a thumb grip can help you play better backhand drives. When the smash is flat (not steep), you will have more time to change your badminton grip, because the smash must be slower. If the smash is flat and very fast, then leave it: it will land out at the back. For flat smashes, you will often want to change to apanhandle grip, so that you can counter-attack with a flat drive, block, or push.

Styles of smash defence Neutral defence

Backhand-biased defence

Crouch defence

There are three main styles of smash defence:  Neutral defence  Backhand-biased defence  Crouch defence Neutral defence is where the player tries to be equally ready for both sides, forehand and backhand. Use the basic grip, perhaps with a slight shift towards the thumb grip (as described above). Backhand-biased defence is where the player commits to playing a backhand: he will play most forehand defence using a backhand hitting action. Often the badminton grip moves farther towards a thumb grip. Avoid using a full thumb grip, however, because it will limit the power of your lifts and drives. Crouch defence is where the player crouches and uses an overhand hitting action (the badminton racket is above the hand). The badminton grip here is normally a panhandle grip, but sometimes a thumb grip is used on the backhand side. This form of defence involves complete commitment to counter-attacking strokes (no lifts).

Which method is best? All three methods are valid, and each requires practice. Neutral defence is the foundation of your defensive technique. This one needs the most practice. Backhand-biased defence is fine in moderation, but observant opponentswill exploit a weak forehand defence: they will push your backhand defence to the point of collapse, by aiming smashes at your extreme forehand side. Crouch defence is highly specialised. In many situations it will be a disaster. Used at the right time, however, it can be deadly.

Forehand overheads Forehand clear, using the basic grip

Use the basic grip for forehand clears, drop shots, and smashes. You may need to adjust your badminton gripif the shuttlecock has travelled behind you. When you are smashing in the ideal position (with the shuttlecock in front of you), a small adjustment towards panhandle can be helpful. Normally you should not change your badminton grip in order to play crosscourt: vary your arm swing instead. A normal forehand arm swing has plenty of flexibility for changing the angle of overheads. The exception is when you are taking the shuttlecock from behind your body, but normally you would not attempt a crosscourt clear or smash from this position anyway.

Backhand overheads

Backhand clear, using the bevel grip

Use the bevel grip for backhand clears, drop shots, and smashes. You may need to adjust your badminton griptowards panhandle if the shuttlecock has travelled behind you. If you play a backhand overhead with the shuttlecock in front of you, you need to adjust towards a thumb grip. To play a crosscourt backhand clear or smash, it may help to adjust your grip farther towards panhandle. The backhand swing is more restricted at the shoulder joint than the forehand, so it’s harder to use your arm swing to control the angle of your backhand overheads.

Forehand slices

For slice or reverse slice smashes, you do not need to adjust your badminton grip (slicing your clears, by the way, is pointless). You can simply change the timing of your stroke so that the badminton racket is angled when it strikes the shuttlecock. For slice or reverse slice drop shots, however, it can be helpful to adjust your badminton grip. The idea is to hold the badminton racket more sensitively in the fingers, allowing you to create more spin.

Slice drop shots For slice drop shots, I recommend using the bevel grip instead, with the badminton racket held more in the fingertips than normal. This allows you to roll the badminton racket in your fingers more effectively. The idea is that, instead of simply slapping the shuttlecock with an angled hit, you can turn the racket inwards as you hit the shuttlecock, brushing around the shuttlecock to create more spin.

Key tip

The more spin you create, the better your drop shot. Brush around the shuttlecock for maximum spin.

The fingertip control of the bevel grip allows you to do this more sensitively, turning the badminton racket between your thumb and first finger with precise control.

Reverse slice drop shots You can either use a standard basic/bevel grip, or you can adjust the grip towards panhandle. A slight panhandle allows you to make more of a sideways brushing action, from right toleft: the badminton racket will be facing more parallel to the net. When you use this slight panhandle, your drop shots will tend have less speed. This should not be surprising, because your hitting action is more sideways, rather than forwards. Consequently, you may find it difficult to play a fast cross-court reverse slice.

Key tip

Cross-court drop shots need more speed, because they have a longer distance to travel. In my experience, the shift towards panhandle is effective only for straight reverse slice drops: it helps me to slow down the shuttlecock, while still making a fast arm movement. Since the arm makes a pronounced sideways movement, it also gives the appearance of hitting cross-court. For cross-court reverse slice drops, however, I find that the slight panhandle slows down the shuttlecock speed too much: my attempted fast drops tend to be slow, or even fall short of the net! This does not happen when I use a standard basic grip. This is a subtle issue, and the best advice I can offer is to experiment with both methods.

Badminton grip size Home> Articles> Grips guide> Background > Badminton grip size  Previous page  Next page Players often ask how thick their badminton racket handle should be: how many layers of grip tape should they add? I don’t know of any formula for calculating your ideal badminton grip size. To get the right size, you have to experiment. Your grip needs to be big enough so that you can hold the badminton racket comfortably with a relaxed grip. If you find yourself needing to clench the badminton racket to maintain control, then your grip is probably too small. Your grip needs to be small enough so that you can make good use of grip tightening for power. If the grip is so big that it completely fills up your palm, then your grip tightening will not be effective. Having too thick a badminton grip will also make your grip less flexible.

Marking the badminton racket handle Home> Articles> Grips guide> Background > Marking the badminton racket handle  Previous page  Next page

Marking the badminton racket handle is an excellent way to help yourself learn the correct basic grip. Marking the racket handle

In the photographs for this guide, I have painted all the diagonal bevels blue. This is a timeconsuming process requiring masking tape and paints (I used acrylics). You don’t need such an elaborate method. Simply mark a straight line along the corner of the handle, between bevel 1 and bevel 2. You can try various marking materials: correction fluid (such as Tipp-Ex), paint, or marker pen. If you use paints, you may find it helpful to use masking tape. In my experience, marker pen is easiest to apply but smudges quickly; correction fluid lasts a little longer but then flakes off; and paints are tedious to apply but last by far the longest (use acrylics). Using marker pen on a towelling grip would probably be a good combination (easy to apply, shouldn’t smudge too much). Since the racket is symmetrical, there are actually two lines to mark (180 degrees rotation from each other).

Alternative views on badminton grips Home> Articles> Grips guide> Background > Alternative views on badminton grips  Previous page  Next page

In this guide, I have mainly presented the grips ideas of Badminton England: the same ideas that they teach coaches. Not everyone agrees with every detail of these ideas. On this page, I explain the differences of opinion that I have encountered among high-level coaches.

Why go into this detail? My main purpose on this site is to help you learn the best badminton techniques. So what should I do when expert sources present me with contradictory ideas? I think the best response is for me to give you both ideas. It would be arrogant of me to dismiss the teaching of any high-level coaches. Remember, you don’t need to know about these alternative views. I offer this information more for academic rigor than because I believe it will improve your badminton.

Key tip Keep this in perspective: we are talking about only minordifferences of teaching. No world-class coaches teach a panhandle grip for forehand clears; some techniques are just wrong.

Badminton grips for forehands In this guide, the main grip for forehands is the basic grip. This is effective when you are taking the shuttlecock at the side, overhead, and for many strokes in front of the body. The extended thumb position of the basic grip means that it can be used on the backhand side too. Some badminton coaches teach a different forehand grip, with the thumb and index finger more wrapped or curled around the badminton racket handle. Unlike the basic grip, this really is a forehand grip, in the sense that it could never be used for a backhand: all backhands require some thumb leverage from behind, and using this forehand grip would cause a floppy backhand. Tom Causer, who coaches England national juniors, showed me this type of forehand grip. He was giving a workshop on forehand and backhand lifts. Tom’s grip was just like the basic grip, but with the thumb and index finger curled more around the handle, rather than extended. Lee Jae Bok also teaches this kind of finger positioning, but only for smashes: he explicitly teaches that the thumb should not be straight, but curled. Lee also adjusts the smash grip towards panhandle — like a mirror image of the basic grip, with the V shape (what’s left of it) towards bevel 8 instead of bevel 2. This change of angle is consistent with my smash grip adjustment. I think Lee is correct about this adjustment, but there are pitfalls to teaching it as the smash grip; it’s better to think of it as an adjustment, not a new badminton grip.

Badminton grips for backhands I have come across a surprising variety of names for otherwise quite standard badminton grips. Tom Causer showed me what he called an approach grip for backhand lifts; as far as I could see, it was the bevel grip (perhaps slightly shifted towards the thumb grip). I’ve also heard coaches talk about such exotic entities as the backhand adjusted basic grip. Having a coach introduce yet another new grip, with a fancy name, has a strangely intimidating effect: you wonder whether you’ve missed something, whether your technique might be subtly incorrect. But a name may not signify anything, and most of the time badminton coaches are talking about the same grip using different names. I think that some badminton coaches have difficulty accepting that we can’t have names for every slight grip variation. It’s better to teach a few simple badminton grips, and encourage

players to be flexible in their application, than to attempt a bewildering catalogue of badminton grip names. In my experience, it’s only the coaches who care about the arcane details of grip taxonomy; the players just want to know how to hold the racket.

By changing the length of your grip, you change the moment of inertia of the badminton racket. The Wikipedia article on MOI says: The moment of inertia of an object about a given axis describes how difficult it is to change its angular motion about that axis. Your hand position is the (approximate) axis of rotation. When you use a shorter grip, you are repositioning the axis of rotation. Using a shorter grip reduces the moment of inertia. A lower MOI means less difficulty in changing the angular motion. In other words, a shorter grip lets you get power from a short swing: it takes less effort to get the racket moving. Because it’s easier to get the racket moving, you also experience a sense of increased control: there is less drag from the racket head. This does not imply that short grip = more power. Angular momentum of the racket is converted into linear momentum of the shuttlecock: it’s not only about how fast the racket is rotating, but also about how long the lever is. When two racket swings have the same angular velocity, the one with the longer grip has more angular momentum. Consequently, the one with the longer grip will make the shuttlecock fly faster. Here’s another way to think about it: in order to achieve the same shuttlecock speed, you need to make a faster swing with a short grip. A long grip can achieve the same result with a slower swing.

Biomechanical limits The problem with short grips is that you cannot keep making the swing faster. As well as the physical properties of the racket, we have to consider the physical capabilities of the human body. There is a limit to how fast your arm can swing. This means that you cannot fully compensate for using a short grip: you will not be able to reach the required arm speed to match the power of a long grip. It’s a compromise: short grips give you more immediate power, but long grips give you greater maximum power. A similar compromise exists when comparing rackets with different weight distributions: a heady-heavy racket can potentially offer more power, but it doesn’t offer as much immediate power as an evenly balanced racket.

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