AU FA ST VO RA UR LIA IT ’S E
Vol 20 No 6
A$9.49 incl. GST
(NZ$10.20 incl. GST) US$9.95 CAN$9.95
1MVT 9 772200 556007
03 ISSN 2200-5560
Print Post Approved 244 195/00054
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r Popular Charlie Bear ll Retired A e designs are now all retir ce we sell our existing stoc cannot get them again. nkins - 37cm
Barry - 51cm
$125 Retired 2014
See 100’s of Charlie Bears in our huge online catalogue
www.teddys.com.au (SFBU 8FTUFSO )XZ #SPPLMBOET 7JMMBHF #MBYMBOE/48t
From the Editor
Feel free to email me on [email protected]
or write to me at Bear Creations, PO Box 8035, Glenmore Park NSW 2745.
learnt their crafts over the years. If you are a bearmaker, collector or just an admirer of teddy bears, we would love to hear from you! This is your magazine, so let us know what you think and share your story too. If you would like to submit a bear, photo, collection or anything else to the magazine, please send any information to [email protected]
or Bear Creations, P O Box 8035, Glenmore Park, 2745 As you would already know, we now have our magazine available in a digital version. If you would like to subscribe please go to page 60 and subscribe today. Alternatively you can subscribe on our website at www.wpco.com.au
nd now for something completely different. We have 3 bear projects and a rabbit, but we also have a polymer clay project by Manda Theart from South Africa. How about giving this a try…..you will be surprised! Each project comes with the pattern, diagrams and easy to follow instructions. Read about Mabel and her journey from England to her new home in Melbourne. Read about Manda Theart’s book about polymer clay sculpting. There are also profiles on some of the artists that have provided us with projects in previous issues. Read about their journeys and find out more how they have
Simon,Susan,Lenaandtheteam 38A Stoney Creek Rd Bexley 2207 NSW Ph: (02) 9150 0266 www.dollhospital.com.au Email: [email protected]
We repair: dolls, teddys, porcelain, ceramics, rocking horses, prams & wheels, toys, hand bags & all leather goods After
We have several very talented repairers that specialize in soft toys, every repair imaginable is undertaken even total remakes.
The Doll Hospital has been repairing teddies and soft oy’s for as long as long as we have repaired dolls. After
www.dollhospital.com.au Bൾൺඋ &උൾൺඍංඈඇඌ
12 18 22 28
Profile – Lorraine Davey of Balgowah Bears More than Bears April – Project Jo Brittain of Garden Vale Bears Collector – Lorraine Mahoney The Bear’s face is what I fall in love with Thistle Bunny – Project Kelly Dauterman Profile – Pauline Whitelaw of “Bears for Bears” Every bear should have its own bear!!! Harlequin Harley – Project Christine Jacobs of Winkle Bears The Story of Mabel by Hilary Laidler A Great Journey
Bear in a basket – Project Polymer clay project by Manda Theart Profile – Liz Walker Watts of Wacky Walker Bears“Beware!!!” Bear making is addictive Suzie – Project Susan Leigh of Bearleigh Bears Profile – Ann-Marie Dodd of Bearmetoo My favourite part of making bear is the finished result Chen – Project Kerryn Francis of Taralee Teds Profile – Karen-Anne Jones of Bears in the Barn and other things too A hobby just for herself and more
From the Editor
74 Shows 76 Bear Necessities 78 Basic Bear Glossary 80 Basic Bear Techniques 81 What’s on 82 Next Issue
BOOK REVIEW: MINIATURE BEAR CREATIONS IN POLYMER CLAY BY SUSAN LEIGH
iniature Bear Creations in Polymer Clay is the book in which South African Manda Theart shares her project-based approach to teaching polymer clay skills so that you can create a masterpiece from your very first project. Manda Theart lives in sunny South Africa with her wonderful husband, two adult sons and two dogs. As Manda says “the clay found her many years ago in the form of a tiny polymer clay golly. And the rest is history. It was love at
first sight. Manda started teaching about 10 years ago and found that working with polymer clay is an art form that all people with a teachable spirit can aspire to. This medium is so forgiving. In this book Manda will be sharing her many years of experience. There are detailed step-by-step projects with many pictures. If you wish to purchase one of these books, please contact Manda Theart on [email protected]
MALEVICH, KANDINSKY AND REVOLUTIONARY PORCELAIN RUSSIAN MASTERPIECES OF ART AND WHITE GOLD FROM 1917 TO 1927 22 APRIL 2017 – 8 OCTOBER 2017
ussian porcelain of the period from 1917 to 1927 reflects the dramatic changes in Russian life at the time. Wholly unique, thematically contemporary decorations are typical. Having emerged in the atmosphere of the Russian Revolution, this white gold of the 1920s was used for more than just propaganda and didactic purposes. In a period dominated by industrial design, many outstanding artists turned to this as the art form most likely to reach the broad masses. Technically superb craftsmen modelled their creations after designs 6
by the artists. This combination yielded amazingly beautiful, never-before-seen porcelain pieces that were often only made as one-offs or in small series. In this unique special exhibition, over 300 select porcelain pieces from the finest private collection are displayed publicly for the very first time. On display are
creations from 64 avant-garde artists such as Kazimir Malevich, Vasily Kandinsky, and Nikolai Suetin, to name some of
the most prominent ones. The exhibit is rounded out with drawings and designs from these renowned masters as well as David Yakerson. Let yourself be inspired by a breathtakingly creative era of Russia’s history, with something new and surprising at every turn.
Ristorante La Sosta and Boutique, daily from 9.30 to 18 The Swiss Museums Pass and the Museums-PASS are valid for the Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel.
FACTS & FIGURES
CHF 7.00/5.00 Children up to 16 years are admitted free of charge, only if accompanied by an adult.
Opening hours Museum, Tuesday to Sunday from 10 to 18 Museum, in December, daily from 10 to 18
No additional charge for the special exhibition.
The building is accessible by wheelchair.
MEDIA CONTACT Further information is available from: Laura Sinanovitch Managing Director/Curator Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel Steinenvorstadt 1 CH-4051 Basel Telephone +41 (0)61 225 95 95 [email protected]
BEARLEIGH BEARS RETREAT IN LOWER PORTLAND, NSW IN NOVEMBER 2016 BY SUSAN LEIGH
hat a great time we had again this year. Some of the ladies started to arrive from the Monday afternoon. We had other ladies arriving everyday till Friday. On arrival we organized ourselves in the conference room, putting out all our goodies that we had planned to do over the weekend. All those UFO’s (unfinished objects) that we seem to have in our stashes emerged into the light. We organised our own dinner for Monday night and what a feast we had.
Some girls retired to bed early and other stayed up till early hours of the morning. The rest of our stay, Kee and Chris looked after our meals and we were really spoilt. The weather this year was very kind to us. We had glorious days, some hot, others a little cooler. Days were spent sewing and creating tons of various bears, critters, patchwork bags, quilts, knitting and too many other things to list. It was so wonderful to see everyone sharing techniques, and showing others how to do certain techniques.
Great fun was had by all and there was a lot of laughter which is good for the soul. All in all the retreat was a lot of fun, and the next retreat is already planned for 2017. Hope that you can make it next time! In 2017 we will have the retreat starting on Monday 13th November until 22nd November. For more details, please contact Susan Leigh of Bearleigh Bears on 043 801 6714 or Email:[email protected]
PROFILE: LORRAINE DAVEY OF BALGOWLAH BEARS
More Than Bears I cannot imagine life without the challenge of creating a creature! EDITED BY SUSAN LEIGH
started making bears in 1996 after seeing mohair fabric at the Rosehill Craft Fair. The original “Gerry” was selling her fabrics and accessories, and showing teddy bears
made from those fabrics. Mohair was about $120 a metre and I was terrified to cut into it. As I had never made a bear, my first attempt was nothing like I wanted it to be.
My first Bear Fair was in 1997, at the Sydney Bear Fair at Sydney Town Hall, run by Mike and Jackie Brooks. I was astounded that I sold eight bears and never looked back from that time.
Nevertheless I soon decided that I wanted to make something different. A small koala came next in 2000 and it found a buyer straight away, then koalas in three different sizes, as well as sets of Koala Skittles. For three years I sold bears and a koala to Teddy Bears of Witney in the U.K., to Bears on the Wharf in Mooloolaba and Dornal Antiques in Bendigo. Jacqui Rose of “Bears on the Wharf” (Mooloolaba) encouraged me and sold many of my creations. Teddy Bear skittles were also made in 2000 and sold out straight away. They were followed by African Animal Skittles which featured 9 different animals. One of them, a meerkat, received a lot of attention and I received a number of requests for a meerkat on its own. I placed an advertisement featuring meerkats with Bear Creations and received a call from a customer in Victoria who wanted to order a family of four meerkats. He requested two adults, a teenager and a baby. The following year he bought another four of them and, in 2014, ordered 12 more. Five of the 20 meerkats formed a wedding present for his granddaughter. The wedding was featured in a Bear Creations article as it was held in the Werribee Zoo in Victoria, with the wedding reception held in front of the meerkat enclosure. What a BEAR CREATIONS
PROFILE: LORRAINE DAVEY OF BALGOWLAH BEARS
wonderful sight that must have been! Over the years I have sold hundreds of meerkats in four different sizes using different fabrics. I have always loved all sorts of animals and spent some years as a volunteer at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo. This love urged me to try my hand at making a number of other animal types. These have included foxes – in natural form and also dressed as a fox hunter – rabbits – male and female in different sizes and clothes – a King Charles spaniel – dressed as a cavalier – owls in two sizes, and mice in a variety of Victorian children’s boots and on their own. In addition to these, I am particular proud of my chimp sitting on a cushion with a Persian rug whilst playing a banjo, with a little white mouse nearby applauding. I have also made a bear on wheels in two sizes, a cat, a duck, polar bears, a pig, rocking horses, a push-a-long horse, a lion and unicorn pair, and a frog. In 1753 the Meissen Porcelain factory in Germany created a monkey orchestra in which porcelain monkey figures represented members of the orchestra. I have created mohair and fabric representations of three of those Meissen figures, each with its own miniature musical instrument. In late 2010 I entered the Bear of the Year competition run by Bear Creations magazine. My entry was the King Charles spaniel in the dress of a 17th century cavalier. To my amazement I received an email from the editor saying that I had won. Naturally I thought that I had won the ‘Other Animals’ section of the competition and was very thrilled to find that I had actually won the whole competition. That win, more than anything else, encouraged me to believe that collectors were ready to take an interest in a wider variety of animal styles. 10
Initially the King Charles spaniel was featured in one of my Christmas cards. One of my customers in New South Wales offered to buy it and told me he was a breeder of King Charles spaniels. He advised me that they came in four distinct colours and that he would like one each of the four types. He supplied me with photographs of each type and duly received four King Charles spaniel creations. Another went to a collector in Victoria who had two of them, and another to a lady in Adelaide. During the time I have been making teddy bears and other animal creatures I have met many clever people. The ones I admire most are Loris Hancock who has created many wonderful different animals with a theme, Lexi Haworth who makes wonderful large bears in traditional costumes, and the best open mouth
teddy bear maker, Lorraine Almond. In 2017 I plan to attend a Doll and Bear Fair in Hahndorf, South Australia. It is a part of a weeklong Doll Convention held every two years. I hope to meet some of the ladies who came from Adelaide to the Liverpool Doll and Bear in 2016. Some of them became customers of mine and I look forward to meeting them again in Hahndorf. The Liverpool Doll and Bear Fair is held every year in July. Dolls and bears are sold, old and new, and is a great show. I expect to attend again in 2017. Making my little creatures has been most enjoyable and I cannot imagine life without the challenge of creating a creature from pieces of fabric, a photo and research into the fine details of the creature I am using as my model.
Lorraine Davey Of Balgowlah Bears Can Be Contacted On: Phone: 02 9948 4399 Email: [email protected]
ject o r P
April Jo Brittain Of Garden Vale Bears MATERIALS )DW 0RKDLU $V3J KDQG G\HG used) )RRW 3DGV , XVHG WKH UHYHUVH RI the mohair, you can also use paw pad fabric of your choice PP %ODFN *ODVV (\HV [ PP GLVFV [ PP 7 FRWWHUSLQ [ : ZDVKHUV [ PP 0 VFUHZV [ : :DVKHUV /1 ORFNQXWV SO\ 3HUOH 7KUHDG &RSLF 0DUNHUV %ODFN Blender pen 3RO\ILO
*ODVV EHDGV RU VWHHO VKRW IRU weighting your bear) &UDIW JOXH %ODFN IHOW 0DWFKLQJ *XWWHUPDQ 7RSVWLWFK WKUHDG 6LQHZ 6HZLQJ 1HHGOH 'ROO 1HHGOHV $ZO 6WXIILQJ WRROV -RLQWLQJ 7RROV 3RLQW\ QRVH SO\HUV or cotter pin turner
INSTRUCTIONS PREPARATION Read all instructions carefully before commencing Make a photocopy of Original pattern, paste it onto cardboard & cut out, then make reverse pattern stencils to use. A seam allowance of 5mm is included. Check the direction of the fur Pile of the fabric & mark the reverse side with an arrow in the direction of the fur pile. Layout your pattern pieces onto the backing & when you are sure you have all pattern pieces laid out, including all the reversed pieces indicated on the pattern Hold your pattern pieces & draw around each one marking darts, opening & joint markings
Cut out using fine tipped embroidery scissors taking great care to only cut the backing and not the fur pile.
DO NOT CUT YOUR FABRIC UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETELY SURE YOU HAVE ALL PIECES MARKED OUT & YOU ARE HAPPY WITH THE LAY OUT
Finished Size: Standing: 26cm (10 inches)
HEAD Pin & whip stitch the side heads together from A to B then back stitch Pin Head gusset in from centre front lining up with the centre nose seam & ease each side in around the muzzle area as you pin all the way down Whip stitch from centre front to the back of the head then backstitch back to the centre, without cutting the thread. Whip stitch the other side then back stitch back up toward centre nose & secure with a few knots & cut thread. Cut off 30cm of sinew & at bottom of the head 5mm from the bottom of the neck area run a gather stitch leaving the long tails. Turn the head right side through & using wire fur brush, brush the fur out from seams
Thread a doll Needle with a long thread of sinew & push from bottom of the head up into one eye opening coming out close beside the pin, remove the pin. Place the eye onto needle & push needle back down to the base of the head coming out right beside the first tail. Remove the needle & pull the eye in & tie off thread tails back onto needle & push back into the head & out to the side. Pull & snip off close to the head. Do the same for the other eye.
STUFFING THE HEAD Start stuffing the head with small balls of polyfil working from the nose packing firmly as you work backwards into the rest of the head, keep nose shape by using your opposite hand to mould the shape as you go . When the head is stuffed place head joint together. TPin ,washer &Disc. Place joint into the bottom of the neck of head then pull in the sinew tails tightly & tie off & trim tails. Now your head is ready to add Ears, Eyes, and nose. EYES Use Test eyes or Blackened pins to determine your eye position, once you are happy with the position. Use your awl to push holes in those places & pop pins in those holes while you shade the eye area with a copic marker. Start small & work the colour out with the blender pen.
SEWING & ATTACHING EARS :KLS6WLWFKHDFKHDUWRJHWKHUIURP$% & then backstitch. Close the Ear openings using a Long DSSUR[FPORQJ6LQHZ /DGGHUVWLWFK them together leaving the long thread. You can use this to attach the ears to the head) ATTACHING EARS Pin ears onto head in the desired position with ear pins. Take a couple of stitches at each end by pushing needle into head & back out the other corner of the ear, catching the ear, then push needle back in at same place coming out in centre of the ear, back into the head & out between the end & centre VWLWFKHVLQWRWDO 2QFH ear is secure, knot down low a few times & pass thread back into same spot & pull back out the side of the head and then
cut off the tail. REPEAT the ladder stitch on other Ear. TRIMMING NOSE & EMBROIDERING Trim the fur with scissors where the nose is to be stitched like a Y, Cut a Nose shape you like from felt matching the colour of the nose thread you will be using. *OXHWKHIHOWQRVHWHPSODWHLQWR position on the nose area and leave to dry Thread your small doll needle with perle thread, anchor at the underneath of the head then bring needle out in centre just above the top of the nose template. I like to do the mouth first. Take your WKUHDGGRZQDSSUR[PPSDVWWKHQRVH template and then create an upside down Y for the mouth, using pins to mark out your bear mouth as a guide. Once the mouth is done take needle back up to the nose template & satin stitch the nose keeping stitches close together &the tension even. When happy with the nose embroidery take the thread back down to the bottom of the head & snip the tail.
ARMS Pin & whip stitch. Then back stitch each arm from top arm opening mark around to the other opening mark. Use awl to make hole for the joints & turn right side through & brush fur from the seams REPEAT for other arm. Using small bits of stuffing at a time, stuff the body firmly. Make sure that the bum and tummy are stuffed well. Turn in the raw edges at the opening on the back and ladder stitch it closed.
BODY Whip stitch the darts at the top of each body piece then backstitch Pin & Whip stitch the body parts together & then Back stitch leaving the openings open as indicated on the pattern. When sewing the body skip a stitch at the GDUWVWKLVLVZKHUH\RXUKHDGZLOOMRLQWR the body.) Using an awl make joint holes in the body, turn body right side through & brush fur from the seam. LEGS Fold Leg in half, pin & whip stitch. Then back stitch the leg from the toe to bottom of the opening line, then stitch from top of the leg around to the opening. Pin the footpads in place. Pin the top toes and the heel first then the sides for even sewing. Sew around the footpad. When footpad is sewn into place the leg can be turned the right way around. Use the awl to make the joint hole. Turn right side out & brush fur from seams REPEAT for other leg.
JOINTING HEAD & LIMBS Firstly joint legs to body with VFUHZ:ZDVKHU & Disc into the leg first and then into the lower body & add another disc, washer, locknut. Hand tighten and then use spanner & stumpy Phillips head screwdriver & tighten to the point you can only just move the leg with GLIILFXOW\WKLV will loosen when stuffed) Repeat with other leg Attach the head to body inserting the cotterpin into the body at the top at the DARTS. On the inside place another GLVF: washer, using plyers or cotter pin turner, curl over the cotter pin legs tightly.
Attach arms to the body screw, washer & disc into the arm then into the body, then add disc, washer & locknut. Finger tighten before tightening with jointing tools. REPEAT for the other arm. STUFFING BODY & LIMBS /(*66WDUWZLWKOHJV6WXIIIHHWILUPO\ using small rolls of polyfil working up SDVWWKHDQNOHWKHQJHQWO\WLSJODVVEHDGV VWHHOVKRWRSWLRQDO LQWROHJXSWRDSSUR[ FPIURPWKHRSHQLQJ7KHQSDFNILUPO\ the polyfil in to the leg on top of pellets & pack polyfil firmly around disc & finish stuffing leg. Then ladder stitch the opening closed. 5(3($7)2527+(5/(* $5066WXIIWKHDUPXVLQJ small balls of polyfil. Pack into the bottom of arm working back up towards the disc packing firmly around disc & throughout the arm. Then ladder stitch the opening closed. REPEAT FOR OTHER ARM. Accessorise your bear with flowers , bows or charms as you prefer….. Congratulations!! You have completed your first bear designed by *DUGHQ9DOH%HDUV Jo Brittain of Garden Vale Bears can be contacted by Email:[email protected]
April Ear Cut 4 Reverse 2
April Head Gusset
Cut 1 B
April Foot pad
Cut 2 Reverse 1 A
April Ar ut 4 R verse 2 Joint
April Side Head
April © Jo Brittain Of Garden Vale Bears
Cut 2 Reverse 1 B
April Leg Cut 2 Reverse 1 Leav o pen
C NB: A 5 MM SEAM ALLOWANCE IS INCLUDED ON ALL PATTERN PIECES
April Body Cut 2 Reverse 1
Vol. 20 No. 6
COLLECTOR – LORRAINE MAHONY
The Bear’s Face Is What I Fall In Love With And Then I Have to Have Them.
EDITED BY SUSAN LEIGH
y name is Lorraine Mahony and I live in Champion Lakes, Western Australia. I live with my wonderful husband,
Perry, and our German Shepard dog, Sarge. I have three children who are grown up and live in their own homes close to us. I also have a beautiful
granddaughter Chloe who I adore. I have been collecting Teddy Bears over many years, one of my first bears was a Russ bear called Dickens which
was bought about 28 years ago when I got my daughter a teddy for her Birthday. I did have a bear as a child but sadly I didn’t keep it. I thought that it was beyond repair and now wish I had kept it as Kay Cooper of Cooper Bears in Western Australia has a teddy bear hospital and does wonders restoring bears. Over the years other bears have caught my eye at craft shows. I have 18 artist teddy bears in my collection and my collection is growing all the time. I have bought the bears
COLLECTOR – LORRAINE MAHONY
from bear shows. My most recent purchase is Alberto which is created in a Mohair/wool blend and is amazing. I have also bought off the internet – such as sites like www.bearpile.com, a few artist sites and also from Facebook pages. I do get drawn to the artist that I know and like, but the bear’s face is what I fall in love with and then I have to have them! I can’t say I am drawn to any particular size or colour as my bears vary. I do look out for teddy bears that I can grow my own design from, like felted faces are something I would like to try on my own bears. It’s hard to choose a special bear as they all have memories and stories like Lewis who is from the UK and was made as a Commission Bear for me by Kessey Bears. I love how she has sculpted the face, waxed the nose and stitched the feet and paw pads. Then there is Frappe who is from Sweet Candy Dreams from Poland and also has a beautiful shaded face. I love the look of Charlie Bears and I have Dilly with his
mixture of fur from their collection. I have a couple of bears from Cooper Bears that are special as Kay Cooper is my Teddy teacher and encouraged me with my own design bears which I have called Mrs Mahony’s Bears. I am so proud of my designed bears and enjoy selling and designing new bears for loving homes. I have always
been crafty and done many crafts like ceramics, folk art, paper tole, scrap booking, card making but teddy bear making is what I love to do. I have made many pattern bears and done some amazing workshops, I have made bears for family and friends. I have made a bear for my late mother with her brooch on it and it
is very special to me. Her name is Patricia and comes out on her birthday and Mother’s Day. My collection of bears is very special to me as each bear has a story and a memory to go with them. My family enjoy seeing my new additions to my bear family and are very supportive.
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Thistle Bunny By Kelly Dauterman MATERIALS [ FP [ LQFK SLHFH RI mohair [ FP [ LQFK SLHFH RI FRWWRQ for inner ears [ FP [ LQFK SLHFH RI mohair for tail %ODFN JODVV H\HV , XVHG PP 3RO\HVWHU ILEHUILOO VWXIILQJ 3ODVWLF SHOOHWV 3HUOH FRWWRQ IRU QRVH +HDY\ WKUHDG IRU ZKLVNHUV [ PP LQFK KDUGERDUG MRLQWV
BEFORE YOU START: I have left a 3.5 mm (1/8 inch seam) allowance on the bunny and hand stitched it. You can certainly sew it on the sewing machine if you choose. HEAD: Begin by putting the two head pieces together with right sides facing in, and sewing from the tip of the nose to the base of the neck. Next place the center head gusset between the sides of the head and sew from the tip of the nose to the base of the neck, easing as you go. Repeat for the other side. Turn the head right side out and stuff it firmly with polyfil stuffing. With a long needle run a length of perle cotton through his neck opening coming out a little to the side of where the three head pieces meet at the nose. Embroider an X to form mouth and nose. Tie and clip off the excess perle cotton. Insert a cotter pin through one 22
for head [ PP LQFK KDUGERDUG joints for legs [ PP LQFK KDUGERDUG joints for arms FRWWHU SLQV PP [ FP (1/8 x 2 inch) &RIIHH RSWLRQDO 5LEERQ ODFH DQG IDNH IORZHU WULPV Finished Size Of Bear: Seated Including The Ears: 26cm (10 inches)
of the 25mm joints. Insert the entire mechanism into the head opening. Make a running stitch around the neck opening with doubled thread and gather tightly to close. Just the cotter pin should be left sticking out the opening. EYES: Eye placement and size will vary the look of your bunny. Setting the eyes lower and wider apart plus using a larger size eye will give a more juvenile expression. Setting them a bit higher and using smaller eyes will give her a wise older look. Once you have decided where your eyes will be placed, carefully separate the threads of the backing with an awl or knitting needle to make a hole for them to be set into. Run a very heavy piece of thread or fishing line into the loop at the back of the eye. Put both ends into the head of a large needle and run it through the hole you created to the back center of the head right at the base of the neck. Repeat for the
other eye. Pull the threads tightly, tie the two threads together securely in a square knot and snip off the ends. EARS: Stitch from bottom corner of the ear all the way around to the other side. Turn the ear and stitch the bottom closed. Place ears where you like them on the head and stitch down using a ladder stitch. I like to go around twice.
BODY: Stitch the front body seams together. Stitch the back body seams together leaving opening where it’s marked. Stitch body front and back together leaving neck open. Gather the neck closed and using awl or knitting needle poke joint holes where marked. Turn the body. Attach the head by sliding the cotter pin through the gathered neck
and inserting the second 25 mm joint into the body and over the cotter pin. Separate the legs of the cotter pin a little bit to make it easier to roll them down. Using needle nose pliers grab the tip of one of the cotter pin legs and roll one side down until it’s snug but not too tight. Repeat for the other side. This is a distressed bunny so the joints should be a bit loose.
ARMS AND LEGS: Stitch arm pieces and leg pieces together leaving open where marked. Turn the pieces and fill them half way ZLWKSODVWLFSHOOHWV3XWWKHPP MRLQWVLQWKHDUPVDQGWKHPPLQWKH legs. Add a ball of fiberfill and ladder stitch closed. You don’t want your limbs stuffed too firmly. Joint the limbs to the body the same way you did the head by rolling the cotter pins down. FINISHING: Once your bunny is jointed, stuff the ERG\RIWKHZD\IXOOZLWKSODVWLF pellets. Add a nice ball of fiberfill and close back seam with a ladder stitch. Make a running stitch all the way around tail circle and stuff with fiberfill and gather firmly. Attach to the back side of the bunny with ladder stitch. Whiskers may be added as well. &XWHTXDOOHQJWKVRIKHDY\WKUHDG and run through the muzzle. Tie two threads in a square knot on each side and trim to desired length. Repeat with second set of whiskers. Add lace, ribbon and flower trims to dress her up if you like. DISTRESSING: There are a lot of things that can be used to distress with but for the sake of this pattern I wanted to use something readily available. I suggest making a very strong pot of coffee and letting it cool. It’s unadvisable to use any type of food to colour your bunny other than coffee or tea. Once your coffee is cooled you can brush, rub or drip it on the desired areas. Try not to get it too even because when toys age they don’t get stained and dirty in too even a pattern. That being said, certain body parts do tend to get more stained like feet, paws, ear tips and face. Don’t be afraid to experiment and add a lot of coloring. That is what makes your piece special and unique! Now that your bunny is all done it’s time for a name and a big hug! I hope you enjoyed making her! Kelly Dauterman Can Be Contacted On: Website: www.blondheart.com BEAR CREATIONS
Vol. 20 No. 6
Thistle Bunny Head Cut 2 Reverse 1
Thistle Bunny Head Gusset Cut 1
Thistle Bunny Ear
Thistle Bunny Body Back
Thistle Bunny Body Front
Cut 2 Reverse 1 Side seam
Cut 2 Reverse 1
Cut 4 Reverse 2
Leave Open NB: A 3.5 MM SEAM ALLOWANCE IS INCLUDED ON ALL PATTERN PIECES
Thistle Bunny Arm
Thistle Bunny Leg Cut 4 Reverse 2
Cut 4 Reverse 2
Thistle Bunny Tail Cut 1
Back by popular demand! Brought to you by Bear Essence
CARDINIA CULTURAL CENTRE SUNDAY 29th OCTOBER 2017 10am-4pm
Entry tickets available for sale now… www.themelbournebearbazaar.com.au 03 5998 3535 The success of our inaugural show last October proved to us how much Melbourne has been missing what we had in the “good old days” We all remember the buzz and atmosphere when we attended shows meeting and chatting with the bear artists and getting to meet other collectors who share our passion. This was as much a social event as it was a trading event and we will be putting an enormous amount of our time, money and effort to ensure it will once again be a huge success. Traders include bear artists, supply stores, trims, accessories, vintage laces and more -- there will be something for everyone! With only a handful of trading tables left, anyone wishing to book a table, get in touch now so you don’t miss out!
TO OUR BEAR MAKERS AND COLLECTORS, MAKE SURE TO SAVE THE DATE!
PROFILE: PAULINE WHITELAW BEARS FOR BEARS
Bears For Bears Every bear should have its own bear!!! EDITED BY SUSAN LEIGH
y interest in bears started when I discovered amigurumi – the Japanese art of crocheting in rounds – about 8 years ago. I saw the most adorable little bears on pages like Etsy and Pinterest and was drawn in by their cuteness. I bought myself a hook and some yarn and once I
had learned the basic shapes I was able to start developing my own little cuties. I suddenly realized that things I had wanted to do earlier in life were now readily available to me via the internet. I could find the materials, the tools and all the help and advise I needed on-line. The opportunities are limitless.
One of my more recent skills I discovered is needle felting which I use for my bears noses. I have never attended formal classes. I wouldn’t even say that I can crochet properly, but I just find out how to do something via You Tube then make notes and get on with it.
My favourite size of bear is 4-6 inches tall. I like little chubby bears, but I also like rather goofy looking unconventional bears. Jointed ones are nice because you can have more fun posing them. Basically I like any sort of bear. It depends on my mood at the time. What makes my bears special to me is that they are my own creations and each one I make is something that no one else has. It is unique. I love the autumnal colours, browns, greens, yellows, rusty reds, etc. I have used many other colours, like pastels for baby items, but I always resort back to what I feel are nature’s natural colours. I simply love alpaca yarn, it has such wonderful qualities. It is beautifully soft, not prickly and because it contains no lanolin it is hypoallergenic, therefore making it suitable for any age group, including babies. I also love the animals themselves. I would have one in the garden if I could – although I’m not sure what my husband would say! I draw inspiration from everything around me, from logos on advertisements, to the bar staff in the local pub. I will often go of at a complete tangent and create something totally “un-bearlike” I don’t really think I have developed a particular signature style for my bears. If I get an idea I just go with it, so they can be very diverse, but I do like the simplicity of bears like Spencer. Sometimes I have tended to overwork my bears – from experience I find that keeping their simplicity is usually best. My bears have evolved naturally over time. As my confidence has grown BEAR CREATIONS
PROFILE: PAULINE WHITELAW BEARS FOR BEARS
I have tried new techniques and even developed a few of my own. I am now able to look at a picture and have a go at making it rather than think it is beyond my means. If it doesn’t turn out exactly as I expected it really doesn’t matter – it is my interpretation of it and I have learnt to be proud. Make you bears loveable. Take time with the face, as this is the bear’s greatest asset. The stuffing is also a very important process which should never be rushed. Stuff him slowly and precisely shaping him as you go. The amount of filling determines the feel of your bear, firm or soft and cuddly. Also experiment with different types of filling. Poly pellets and steel shot can add weight and give your bear a different quality, but if your bear is crocheted be sure to enclose these in a little pocket of fabric as they are likely to escape through the stitches. I love to take a plain old ball of yarn and turn it into a little creature. I never tire of them because each one has a unique character. If a finished bear’s face says “you are my Mum” then I know I have been successful. I once read that a successful bear is one that you want to keep for yourself. One of my most memorable creations wasn’t a bear , but a Harry Hill character. I emailed a photo of it for a competition to appear on his television show. I was quite excited when they contacted me to send him to the studios, but when the show was aired I realised it was one of hundreds they had sent for – I couldn’t even see mine – Ha Ha !! My favourite bear has to be ‘Ted’. I made him for Jamie Edwards who has a superb FaceBook page https://www.facebook.com/ groups/693953804036358/ It was Jamie who encouraged me to create my FaceBook page. He bought Ted for his bear Bambozzle and is always posting pictures of their adventures together. He has a wonderful sense of humour. Jamie told me “every bear should have its own bear “– and so ‘Bears for Bears’ was created. Thank you 30
Jamie I am forever grateful. I had a request from a lady to design a little 3” baby bear as an accessory for a Blythe doll. I have since made a few of these little bears and they have been sent to Russia, America and Holland. My most treasured bear is called ‘Bagley’. He is a hand stitched 5 way cotter pin jointed mohair bear. I decided to make him after coming across an adorable free pattern on-line. I had never used mohair or cotter pin joints before, but I was so pleased with the result that I kept him for myself. I just couldn’t bring myself to part with him. I have attended a couple of bear shows. I don’t actually collect bears myself, but I find the shows a wonderful source of ideas and materials. The bear that makes me most proud is ‘Spencer’ himself. I have spent years making bears from memory and rough notes and have never before actually produced a properly written pattern. Spencer has therefore enabled me to
venture into a completely new field. If I accessorize my bears I tend to make the items myself. I always feel that if my bears are advertised as handmade then their accessories should
be handmade as well. It’s just the way my mind works I suppose. I have sold bears via my FaceBook page and on eBay. I have met some lovely people and many have returned to buy
PROFILE: PAULINE WHITELAW BEARS FOR BEARS
more. I do need to develop my marketing skills though and I am considering opening a shop on one of the craft media sites. Photographs are very important and this is another skill I need to perfect. I get lovely comments from friends and family about my work. They just
take it for granted these days that I will always have a project on the go. I do get a bit obsessive about my works sometimes though, so I have to rein things in a bit. My biggest supporters have to be my grandchildren. Over the years I have had requests for all sorts. They
seem to think that I can produce anything, but I love a challenge and usually come up with the goods, and so next time ….. well, you get the picture! My 8 year old grandson has the whole cast of “Diary of a Wimpy Kid” on this years Christmas list – all as crocheted cartoon characters. I have always enjoyed making things from a young child. I loved craft books and any magazines with things to make. Throughout my life I have tried sewing, knitting, crochet, macramé, clay modeling, jewelry making. I have made clothes, soft furnishings, toys, clothes for toys, dressing up costumes (by the dozen), plant hangers, bags, wendy houses …. The list is endless. I think all these past efforts have helped me to develop the confidence to know that anything is possible with patience. Never be disappointed with your first attempts – they are very special. Each bear you make is an opportunity to decide what you would do better next time. Use the best materials that you can afford, the quality will show through. Allow yourself to evolve your bears naturally, don’t rush things and never stop learning. The internet is a wonderful gift for bear makers. If you get stuck it is an enormous source of information and advice which is
readily available. Another important bit of advice is “finish one project before you start another”. I have not listened to this advice in the past; thereby ending up with a bag full of body parts of unfinished bears!!! Pauline Whitelaw Of “Bears For Bears” Can Be Contacted On: Facebook: Www.facebook.com/BearsFor-Bears-1618504588424569
Size of Bear: 25cm/9 ¾ “ Bear made and ready to adopt : AUD $130 excluding postage
Size of Bear: 30cm/11 ¾ “ Bear made and ready to adopt: AUD $300 excluding postage
1880 Pomeroy Road Bannister, Sydney NSW 2580 [email protected]
0438 016 714 Also recycled vintage fur coats transformed into gorgeous heirloom bears
www.bearleighbears.com BEAR CREATIONS
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Harlequin Harley Christine Jacobs Of Winkle Bears MATERIALS )DEULFV UHTXLUHG E\ SDWWHUQ [ FP PLQL EHDU IDEULF [ FP PDWFKLQJ XOWUDVXHGH 6PDOO VFUDS RI EODFN IDEULF IRU WKH patch 6PDOO VFUDS RI IDEULF IRU KDW DQG VRPH EODFN VHTXLQV IRU WKH WULP FP ULEERQ IRU QHFN UXIIOH 0DWFKLQJ VWURQJ WKUHDG DQG VLQHZ floss %ODFN '0& 3HUOp HPEURLGHU\ cotton (\HV DQG MRLQWV PP EODFN EHDGV
INSTRUCTIONS Note: A 3mm seam allowance has been added to all the pattern pieces CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN Open the pattern and cut out the individual pieces on the pattern sheet. You can use a transparency page and trace the pattern onto it if you intend on using the pattern more than once. This will prevent the pattern pieces from going out of shape and being damaged.
PP 7SLQ ILEUH MRLQWV (VVHQWLDOV 6KDUS SDLU RI VFLVVRUV 'UHVV PDNLQJ SHQJHO SHQ 3DWWHUQ 6WXIILQJ DQG VWXIILQJ WRRO 3LQV &RWWHU SLQ WRRO 1RQHVVHQWLDOV 7UDQVSDUHQFLHV )UD\ VWRS %ODFN &RSLF 0DUNHUV Finished Size Of Bear: Seated: 10cm (4 inches)
indicated on the pattern. Mark around the pattern piece with a dress making pen/gel pen. Mark all the pieces onto the fabric before you cut the pieces out just in case you did not place the pieces economically out. Remember to mark all joints and ‘leave open’ areas.
FABRIC Inspect the direction of the pile of your material. The pile is the fur part of your material. Each pattern piece has an arrow on it showing the direction of pile for that part.
CUTTING OUT Once the pieces all fit correctly onto the fabric then cut them out using a sharp pair of scissors. When cutting out fur (especially those with longer pile) insert the scissors under the fur when you cut. REMEMBER to only cut the backing and not the fur. On each piece that is cut out, cut away the fur (about a 3mm clearance) from the edge for neater seams.
LAYOUT Lay the cut out pattern pieces on the fabric in the direction of the pile as
HEAD Start with the 2 head pieces. Place these pieces together with the furs together
from the nose to the eye and then to the neck. Once the gusset is pinned into position on both sides then stitch it up. Take note not to sew up the neck area. Use fray stop on the open neck to prevent possible fraying during stuffing. (Optional) Turn your head right sides out. STUFFING THE HEAD Using small bits of stuffing at a time, stuff the head from the nose firmly. Make sure that the chin and cheeks are also stuffed well.
(right sides together) and sew from the neck up to the nose. All seam allowances are 3mm. Insert the gusset piece into the head pieces. Start at the nose and pin
INSERTING THE HEAD JOINT Thread a disc onto D73LQ3XWWKH 7SLQGLVFVHW into the hole in your head. Use a gathering stitch with a strong thread around the neck and pull tightly around the Tpin and knot off and thread away into the head. EYES Place pins (or test eyes) in the position
you would like your eyes to be inserted DQGPDUN8VHDEODFN&RSLFPDUNHUWR create a “mask” around his eyes. Use the photo’s as a guide. Thread a bead onto a thread and then thread the eye of the needle with the two thread ends. Insert the needle into the marked eye position and take the thread to the base of the neck through the stuffing as close to the joint and as hidden as possible. Secure with a reef knot, back stitch the end and take the ends into the head. Repeat for the other eye )DFLDOVFXOSWLQJRQH\HDUHDLV optional. NOSE AND MOUTH Select a nose shape. Mark the shape onto the nose area and using the embroidery cotton embroider the nose on using a satin stitch. Stitch the mouth on in the shape you desire. EARS Ear pieces right sides together, sew around the ear pieces leaving an open space where indicated on the pattern. Turn the right way round. Sew the ear closed using a ladder stitch. To create curled ears, fold the points of the ears together so that the ear is now folded in half. Stitch from the middle to the back of the ear. This leave the points still free up to the middle. If you flatten the ear out it will look like a ‘T’ now. Pin the ears into place and attach to the head using strong thread and ladder stitch them into place. BODY Place the two body pieces right sides together and sew around, leaving the back open as indicated on the pattern (‘leave open’). Use fray stop on the “Leave open” edge to prevent possible fraying during stuffing. (Optional) Turn your body the right side out. ARMS )LUVWVHZWKHSDZWRWKHLQQHUDUP at the wrist. Then pin the newly VHZQZKROHLQQHUDUPWRWKHRXWHU arms and sew around the edges leaving an opening as indicated on the pattern.
LEGS Right sides together, pin two leg pieces together and sew around the edges leaving and opening as indicated on the pattern. Use fray stop on the “Leave open” edge to prevent possible fraying during stuffing. (Optional) FOOT PADS Pin the footpads in place. Pin the top toes and the heel first then the sides for even sewing. Sew around the footpad. When footpad is sewn into place the leg can be turned the right way around. Using hemostats here will make this turning easier.
Use fray stop on the “Leave open” edge to prevent possible fraying during stuffing. (Optional) Remember to keep the right sides together and once sewn turn the right way around. Using hemostats will make this turning easier.
JOINING THE HEAD AND LIMBS Using an awl, make a hole in the top of the body for the head joint. Push the 7SLQIURPWKHKHDGWKURXJKWKHKROH Add a disc into the inside of the body RQWRWKH7SLQ7LJKWHQWKH7SLQZLWK the cotterpin turning tool. )RUWKHDUPVDQGOHJVXVHDQDZORU sharp tool to make the hole in the body and inside the limbs at the previously marked points. 7KUHDGDGLVFRQWRD73LQ3ODFH WKH7SLQGLVFVHWLQWRWKHPDUNHG joint hole in the limb and then into the corresponding hole in the body. Add a disc into the inside of the body onto
WKH7SLQ7LJKWHQWKH7SLQZLWKWKH cotterpin turning tool. Perform this step for the other limbs. STUFFING THE LIMBS Use small pieces of hollow fibre stuffing and stuff the limb from the paw pad first. Stuff firmly and fill it well. Use a stuffing tool to do so. Turn the raw edges of your opening inwards and ladder stitch the hole closed. Each stitch should be pulled tightly as you sew and the seam will close well. Tie off with a knot and bury the knot and cut the thread. STUFFING THE BODY AND PLACING THE DIAMOND PATCH Using small bits of stuffing at a time, stuff the body firmly. Make sure that the bum and tummy are stuffed well. Position the black diamond on the tummy with pins and whipstitch on. Turn in the raw edges at the opening on the back and ladder stitch it closed. HAT With right sides together, sew around the hat edges indicated by the dotted line on the pattern leaving the bottom open. Turn right side out and press out the point of the hat with a stuffing tool/chop stick. Stitch the hat onto the
ribbon around the neck and tie the ends of the threads together and knot. Hide the thread ends under the ruffle in the neck.
head with a ladder stitch. Stitch the EODFNVHTXLQVDORQJWKHHGJHRIWKH hat where it meets the head. NECK RUFFLE Sew short gathering stitches along the one side of the ribbon. The longer the ribbon, the denser the ruffle will be. Pull the threads of each side and gather the ribbon. Place the gathered
FINISHING OFF Trim the muzzle with a pair of small sharp scissors around the cheeks, eyes and from the eyes down to the chin. 8VH&RSLFPDNHUVWRVKDGH around the face and paw pads if desired. Give your bear a name and a hug. Well done! You now have that special Winkle twinkle in your hug! Christine Jacobs Can Be Contacted On: Website: www.winklebears.com Email: [email protected]
Harley Outer Arm Cut 2 Reverse 1
Cut 4 Reverse 2
Cut 2 Reverse 1
pen Leave o
Vol. 20 No. 6
Harlequin Harley © Christine Jacobs Of Winkle Bears
Cut 2 Reverse 1
Cut 2 Reverse 1
Harley Head Cut 2 Reverse 1
Harley Inner Arm
NB: A 3MM SEAM ALLOWANCE IS INCLUDED ON ALL PATTERN PIECES
Cut 4 Reverse 2
Harley Body Cut 2 Reverse 1 Leave
Leave open Cut 2 Reverse 1
Exciting new workshops with Marnie Pantano!
Visit us online or in person to view our extensive range of bear making supplies including: Schulte, Helmbold and Japanese mohair, alpaca, viscose, silk and woven plush fabrics. s!HUGERANGEOF#HARLIE"EARSBOTHPLUSHANDMOHAIR s4HEGORGEOUS3ANTOROOF,ONDONGIFTWARERANGE s+IMMIDOLLCOLLECTIONGIFTWARELOTSMORE
Ph: (03) 5998 3535 | www.bearessence.com.au | [email protected]
FEATURE – THE STORY OF MABEL BY HILARY LAIDLER
A Great Journey The Travels Of Mabel! EDITED BY SUSAN LEIGH
ello everyone, my name is Mabel and I am a very special bear. My current mummy adopted me last year as my name was very special to her and her family. You see, Mabel was her Aunty, who immigrated to Australia in 1956 when Mummy was a very little girl. She left with her husband, Del, and her two children, Pat and Brian, to start a new life in Melbourne, on the other side of the world! Mabel was the elder sister of my mummy’s mummy, Joan, and they all used to live together in Marland, on the outskirts of Rochdale, in Lancashire in the United Kingdom. My mummy was lucky enough to come out to visit Australia and stay with her Aunty Mabel and Uncle Del in the summer of 1984, and spent three wonderful weeks with them. By the way, mummy has told me that she thinks they thought her ever so slightly bonkers, because, not long after she arrived, she wandered out into their garden to look at the stars as they were very different from the ones in the sky where she lived! Sadly, Aunty Mabel passed away on October 8th 1990, but Uncle Del came over to the UK to visit my mummy’s family and helped mummy and daddy move house while he was there. So when mummy realized that
Charlie Bears had produced a ‘Mabel’ bear, she thought that her cousin Pat might like me as her special furry friend to cuddle when remembering all the good and happy times with her mummy. So this is my journey from mummy and daddy’s home in the U.K. to my new mummy Pat in Melbourne, Australia. Along the way you will see pictures of my friends, both furry and human, as mummy and daddy and I leave home and on our travels, from landing in Brisbane until I arrive at my final destination. I hope you
enjoy the story! When at home in England I had a happy life with my friends on the shelf in mummy and daddy’s computer room upstairs. Both mummy and daddy would come and hug me and talk to my friends and I. It was very difficult when it became time to leave mummy and daddy’s house for the last time. Half of me was really excited to be going with them on a great adventure with some of my furry friends from downstairs in the house, but the other half of me
was very sad, knowing that it would be the last time that I would see all of my other furry mates and the last time I would see the house and have mummy and daddy to myself. Well, SOS Sid, Youno, Ino and Weno, together with Little Blue and Flameling and Tiger Tim and Amore, were all carefully packed into mummy’s cabin bag, as she wanted us with her all the time and not in the aircraft hold where we could get lost, and where we would be very cold. Unfortunately we also had to
FEATURE – THE STORY OF MABEL BY HILARY LAIDLER
share the bag with some of mummy’s clothes, including her undies! How undignified was that? After absolutely ages and ages, we arrived at somewhere called Singapore. It could have been anywhere! We didn’t get out of her bag. We were too busy having a chat and putting mummy’s knickers on our heads and having a great time! We only know we landed somewhere because the case became vertical instead of horizontal! Within a couple of hours though we all heard the background buzz of what we assumed were more aircraft engines. Later on though, we heard a lot of snoring as mummy and daddy and all the other passengers drifted off to sleep. We were far too excited to waste time sleeping. We just quietly chatted until it was time for us to get off the plane as we had arrived in this place called Australia, at a city called Brisbane. 42
We heard muffled sounds of mummy and daddy picking up their big cases. Good job we weren’t in there as we would have got very dizzy on that carouselly thing! We heard new voices of daddy’s daughter Karen and grandson Adam, as they had come to pick us up in their car, with Adam driving after recently passing his driving test. Mummy and daddy sounded really excited to see them, and Adam gave mummy a new furry friend called a Kooky, a yellow crested cockatoo, who we all met when we finally escaped the case and the undies and could look out at the Brisbane skyline. We were so high up that we could feel the building swaying in the wind. Mummy and daddy also felt a bit wonky so we all relaxed and had a good long night’s rest before starting our exciting travels. All the other bears and humans kept
saying we would be upside down and walking on our heads but, as you can see, that was just a pile of nonsense! We saw Brisbane by day and Brisbane by night. At night all the lights were very pretty. Mummy and Daddy left us alone one night to meet up with family. That was when we had our own welcome party and got up to all sorts! Best not mention that too much! That SOS Sid has been around the block a few times, I can tell you! Into the vino already, he was! From there, after mummy and daddy had picked up the car, we headed north to a place on the coast called Noosa.....but on the way we had to stop at a lovely house, where we sat on the back seat of the car watching mummy meet a lovely lady called Emma. After a short while, mummy came back to the car with a very interesting bag. We were all excited because we could see two fluffy ears
sticking out.....who was it? Well, she was a little shy but we all were really kind to her. Eventually she popped out of her bag to meet the rest of us and my, she was gorgeous! We asked her what her name was and she said ‘Golden Delicious’ and she was.... gold with a hint of pink and not like the apples at all! Little Blue and Kooky were sooo pleased to meet her, and she had a bright sparkly butterfly round her neck. Once she was settled on the back seat with the others, off we headed to Noosa, a really cool place to hang out, and also where mummy’s cousin Brian and his wife Debra, spent their honeymoon. Mummy took us all down to the beach to sit on the really soft, pale sand, and to watch the ‘cool’ people stroll by, and to watch the sea come gently to the shore. It was a lovely day which we all enjoyed loads. From there we went to spend time with daddy’s daughter Karen and family in Lawnton, just north of Brisbane. We went out for lots of days with Karen, mummy and daddy. We got blown to bits on the longest walking pier in Australia, in Shorncliffe, and had our pictures taken by some really strange sculptures as we came off! When we left there, we started heading down the coast towards Sydney. This involved getting in and out of our travelling bags a lot, but it was really exciting seeing all these different places. The first place we stopped was Broadbeach on the Gold Coast. Although it was sunny at times, we all went down to the beach to enjoy the seaside. The sand was even whiter than Noosa! The second place we stopped at was Coff’s Harbour. It was so cold and so wet that mummy left us in our bags to keep warm and didn’t take us outside at all. Our fur would have gotten exceedingly soggy! The next place we stopped at was Port Macquarie. What a difference 24 hours had made, as it was glorious sunshine and we were all able to sit out on the balcony and watch mad BEAR CREATIONS
FEATURE – THE STORY OF MABEL BY HILARY LAIDLER
humans purposely getting wet in the swimming pool! From there we made our way to Hunter Valley and I have to say my mate SOS Sid and a few of the others didn’t behave themselves very well at all! Several nights were spent tending bears and dragons with sore heads from the wine they had drunk! However, I did have some peace and quiet for a short time on the patio by myself, just to 44
sit and contemplate things. We finally arrived in Sydney and enjoyed being high up and able to see all the buildings and Darling Harbour. From Sydney, we went inland and stopped off at Goulburn to meet a very special lady, by the name of Susan Leigh, who was desperate to meet me and SOS Sid, in particular (although she was also thrilled to meet Tiger Tim, Amore, Youno, Ino and
Weno and Flameling the dragon, with his dragon rider Little Blue, who had come along as well). We stopped off briefly in Yass and Albury, but then made our way to the Bushlands Resort where we got out of our bags and chilled out for a week after going here, there and everywhere. What we did see were strange hoppy things out of the window, which mummy told us were roos! Cooool! You might have noticed that a couple more bears and a bird have joined the group. Mummy bought a kookaburra called Hilary and an army teddy to remind her of her time in the Territorial Army. Well, we have arrived at my new mummy’s house, and I have met her and she thinks I’m gorgeous but she doesn’t know my name yet and she doesn’t know that I am going to be her new bear. But before I go too far on this, on the way to my new Mummy’s house I had a very important visit to make. I visited the Charlie Bears Cubhouse with my friend SOS Sid. I felt such a special little bear, as I was able to meet Kerrie, a very important lady who was the instigator of Charlie Bears being introduced to Australia. She even had to give up her shop to manage all my brothers, sisters and cousins coming in to Australia to make lots of people happy. Anyway, I am here now in Lilydale with my new mummy and daddy. Mummy one has said that she will give me a friend so that I can have beary talks when new mummy is busy, and so that I don’t feel lonely when she leaves. I wonder who it will be? I hope that it’s another girl bear then we can have nice long girly chats. It is now time for mummy one to return home to the UK. Bye bye Mummy one! I will miss you loads, but my new mummy will look after me. Come back and see me soon! Bye bye xxxx
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Polymer Clay Project – Bear In A Basket By Manda Theart MATERIALS , OLNH WR PL[ PHGLXPV 7KLV SURMHFW LV IRU DOO EHDUPDNHUV DQG DUFWRSKLOHV (QMR\ YOU WILL NEED: 3RO\PHU FOD\ %HDU FRORXU UHG JUHHQ \HOORZ FUHDP DQG EODFN 7RROV , PDNH P\ RZQ GLIIHUHQW QHHGOHV DQG 6WDQOH\ EODGH EDNH FOD\ KDQGOHV RQ WKHP ,QGHQWLQJ WRRO DQG GLIIHUHQW VL]H NQLWWLQJ QHHGOHV 7LOH WR ZRUN DQG EDNH RQ LW PXVW QRW LQFOXGH DQ\ PHWDO %DVNHW *OXH 6PDOO SLHFHV RI PRKDLU DQG IDEULF
BEAR 5ROOWKHEHDUFRORXUFOD\LQWRDQHYHQORJ &XWLQWRHTXDOSDUWV 0DUNRQHSDUWLQWRWKLUGVFXWRQHWKLUG RIIDQGDGGWRDQ\RIWKHRWKHUSDUWV 5ROOLQWRLQGLYLGXDOEDOOV /DUJHEDOO%HDU·VERG\ )LUVWPHGLXPEDOO7ZROHJV 6HFRQGPHGLXPEDOO+HDGDQGHDUV 6PDOOEDOO$UPV ,WHDFKLQRQHWHFKQLTXH,QRWKHU ZRUGVHYHU\WKLQJRQEHDUWKDWKDV WZRSDUWVJHWVGRQHZLWKRQHSLHFH RIFOD\,WLVVRPXFKHDVLHUWRMXGJH
RI \RXU FKRLFH &RWWRQ UHHO &RWWRQ &DUGERDUG 3LQV DQG QHHGOH DQG FRWWRQ WR VHZ EXWWRQV 6PDOO SROO\SURS EDJ 6WXIILQJ /LWWOH SDWWHUQ 6PDOO VLVVRU 2YHQ WR EDNH Finished Size: The size of the basket is 5cm wide and 6 cm high (2 inches wide 2.4 inches high)
VL]HV7KLVIRUPXODDOZD\VZRUNV,I \RXVWDUWZLWKPRUHFOD\\RXZLOOKDYH DELJJHUEHDU BODY: LARGE BALL 5ROOERG\EDOOLQWRDVOLJKWWHDUGURS E\SXWWLQJSUHVVXUHRQRQHVLGHZKLOH UROOLQJRQ\RXUSDOP LEGS: MEDIUM BALL 5ROOLQWRDQHYHQORJPHDVXUHQH[WWR EHDUVERG\ +ROGJHQWO\EHWZHHQ\RXULQGH[ILQJHU DQGWKXPEDQGSUHVVHQGXSZDUGVWR
IRUPIRRWUHSHDWRQWKHRWKHUHQGDQG FXWLQKDOI *HQWO\IODWWHQFXWVLGHVWRIRUPKLSV ARMS: SMALL BALL 5ROOLQWRDQHYHQORJDQGFXWLQKDOI 3UHVVFXWVLGHVRQWRWLOHWRIRUP VKRXOGHUV)ODWWHQKDQGSDUWVOLJKWO\ HEAD AND EARS: SECOND MEDIUM BALL 5ROOKHDGEDOOLQWRDQHYHQVWULSDQGFXW DQHLJKWRIIIRUEHDU·VHDUV 5ROOLQWREDOOVRQHODUJHIRUWKH KHDGDQGRQHVPDOOIRUWKHWZRHDUV 6KDSHKHDGE\ILUVWUROOLQJLQWRDVOLJKW WHDUGURSRQ\RXUSDOP7DNLQJWKH SRLQW\HQGRIWKHKHDGEHWZHHQ\RXU LQGH[ILQJHUDQGWKXPEDQGUROOLQJ JHQWO\WKHQSXVKEDFNWRZDUGVKHDG
5HSHDWDIHZWLPHVXQWLO\RXKDYHD QLFHOLWWOHPX]]OH3UDFWLFHDOLWWOH HYHU\ERG\JHWVLWULJKW 5ROOHDUEDOOLQWRDVWULQJDQGIODWWHQ FXWLQKDOI)RUPHDUVRQWKHLQGHQWLQJ WRRO3ODFHFXWVLGHVRQHLWKHUVLGHRI WKHEHDU·VKHDG ASSEMBLING 3ODFHOHJVRQWKHERWWRPRIWKHERG\LQD VLWWLQJSRVLWLRQ$GGWKHDUPVDQGKHDG 0DNHSDZSDGVZLWKFUHDPFOD\E\ UROOLQJRQHVPDOOSLHFHLQWRDORJ &XWLQKDOIUROOLQWRWHDUGURSVDQG IODWWHQ6FRRSWKHFOD\RIIWKHWLOH ZLWK\RXUEODGHDWDQDQJOHDQGSODFH RQEHDU·VIHHW3DZSDGIRUKDQGLV RQHFUHDPEDOOIODWWHQDQGFXWLQKDOI 3ODFHRQKDQGV 'UDZVWLWFKLQJOLQHVZLWKQHHGOHDQG
PDNHGRWVRQWKHVLGHVRIWKHOLQHV ´6HZµWKHSDZSDGVWRR :LWKLQGHQWLQJWRROLQGHQWWZRH\H VRFNHWVRQWKHVWLWFKOLQHLQWKH PLGGOHRIWKHHDUDQGQRVHOLQH5ROO EODFNFOD\LQWRVPDOOVWULQJFXWLQ KDOIDQGUROOLQWRWZREDOOV3LFNH\H EDOOXSZLWKQHHGOHDQGOHWLWUHVWLQ WKHH\HVRFNHW 5ROOVPDOOVWULQJRIEODFNFOD\DQG DGGIRUQRVH &XWDKROHLQWKHWXPP\IRUVWXIILQJ 3ODFHRQEDNLQJWLOH PIN CUSHIONS: 5ROOHYHQVWULQJVRIFRORXUHGFOD\DQG SODFHQH[WWRHDFKRWKHUIODWWHQDQG JHQWO\VWUHWFKFXWDQGEXLOGDSLHFHRI VWULSHGIDEULF &XWDOLQHSXWGRZQRQWLOHFXW
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anda Theart can be contacted on: Email: [email protected]
Etsy: Manda Theart BEAR CREATIONS
PROFILE – LIZ WALKER WATTS OF WACKY WALKER BEARS
“Beware!!!” Bearmaking Is Addictive She has enriched her life with absolute happiness that many people search a lifetime for! EDITED BY SUSAN LEIGH
am a mother of four grown up kids married to my best friend, greatest supporter and the love of my life, and ruled by three tiny Yorkshire terriers. I was born on the East coast of Southern Africa and now am living in the beautiful county of Wilshire, in the United Kingdom. I can honestly say I am blessed to have the life I have and also be able to pursue my creative passion in the way I do. I am self-taught and consider myself a mixed media artist with an ever present passion to learn something new in the art world. I am the artist and creator of ‘Wacky’ Walker Bears alongside Walker ‘Watts’ Raggedy, Liz’s little folk and all my other crafty makes. My love of all things bears started back in the late 80’s when my daughter insisted she wanted a handmade mohair teddy. The cheaper, mass produced toy shop bears no longer appealing to her. It was whilst sourcing and investigating these intriguing handmade mohair teds that my love of bear design and making began. My first bear was made using a kit I bought from a local teddy bear store 50
in Durban. A funny little guy but my daughter fell in love and so did I. I ran my own teddy bear supply shop in Hillcrest, South Africa, until we moved to the UK. I taught bear making from the shop and every new student is always issued with the warning... ‘Beware!! Bear making is addictive’. Over the years I have perused many different forms of art but soft sculpting and
bear making always draws me back. My inspiration comes from many avenues: a thought, a dream, a picture. The process starts and I love the challenge of turning something from a design on paper into a three dimensional character. I am truly grateful to the universe when one of my creations flies off to his or her new home. “Thought in a vision, Created in a dream,
Designed by the soul, Drawn in a doodle, Made with love And, Presented with a passion I find it hard to wait for that new miracle to be born in the fur” My words… about sums it all up! Over the years my style has evolved
PROFILE – LIZ WALKER WATTS OF WACKY WALKER BEARS
and continues to do so. I ‘bore’ easily and am always game to try something a little different or add a little of another art form in the bear making process. I work mostly in mohair but have a passion for vintage mohair and fur; I am always on the lookout for special pieces of fabric to turn in bears. Viscose is a lovely fabric to work with as well. I love the insurgence of the vintage look into all forms of art these days and as recycling is a personal passion I try to incorporate that into my bear making as well. I experiment with various forms of filling materials
depending on the bear in production but all my bears have a weighty well fed feel about them. My bears range in size from around 6 – 20”. My biggest bear made to date, a commission, was a 4’ panda. Most of my bears are of my own design but often an artist appears who really inspires. I do sometimes work from others designs but will always give them credit if credit is due. I am forever grateful for their creative input into my own work and style. I love sharing and teaching the wonderful art of bear making and often join a masterclass with
colleagues and other designers. There is always something new to share or learn and that’s what makes teaching such a rewarding experience. Every year I launch a limited edition kit and pattern to share the love and encourage new makers. I am presently working on a growing series of bears ‘ye Olde’ Victory Bear series. Each bear is one of a kind and will come to you with its own item of removable vintage clothing along with a bundle
of replica war time memorabilia which can be used to display your bear. This military-themed series of 8” memorable bears I hold close to my heart. I plan for this collection to continue to grow as and when I manage to source their vintage clothing. I am presently working on some 17 – 20” special edition bears in the same series to be launched in February 2017 at Hugglets in London. My bears are available on BearPile and Etsy. We have a page on Facebook and it is through these channels my bears reach a greater audience. My bears are now living all over the world. I presently do a handful of shows in the UK and we will always be found at both the February and September Hugglets shows in London. Liz Walker Watts of Wacky Walker Bears can be contacted on: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ wackywalker.bears/ Bearpile: http://wackywalkerbears. bearpile.com/ Address: 1 Mayfield Close, Shrewsbury, Shropshire, SY14BF, United Kingdom Telephone: (0044) 1743 460064 Mobile: (0044) 785 172 4432 Email: [email protected]
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Suzie Susan Leigh Of Bearleigh Bears MATERIALS *HUPDQ 6FKXOWH 0RKDLU WK RI D PHWUH RI ELVFXLW FRORXUHG 5DWLQHH $OSDFD0RKDLU %OHQG )RRWSDGV 3LHFH RI XOWUDVXHGH WR match PP JODVV H\HV $UWLILFLDO 6LQHZ IRU DWWDFKLQJ H\HV 0DWFKLQJ VHZLQJ WKUHDG -RLQWV [ PP ZRRGHQ GLVFV [ PP ZRRGHQ GLVFV /DUJH 7SLQV :DVKHUV 6RIW VWXIILQJ SRO\ ZRRO QRLO whatever you prefer) 3HUOH HPEURLGHU\ WKUHDG IRU QRVH 6FXOSH\ FOD\ IRU QRVH
TOOLS &DUGERDUG RU WHPSODWH SODVWLF JOXH paper scissors )LQH /DXQGU\ SHQ RU JHO SHQ 6PDOO EODGHG YHU\ VKDUS VFLVVRUV +DQG VHZLQJ QHHGOH 6WXIILQJ VWLFN RU FKRS VWLFN 'ROO QHHGOH IRU DWWDFKLQJ H\HV $Q DGMXVWDEOH VSDQQHU IRU WLJKWHQLQJ joints 6FUHZGULYHU $ZO
BEAR MAKING INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU START: Read all the instructions carefully. Make a photocopy of original pattern, paste it onto cardboard and cut out OR trace onto template plastic and then cut out. A 4mm seam allowance is already included.
fraying. Be sure to reverse the pieces as indicated on the pattern pieces. DO NOT CUT YOUR FABRIC UNTIL YOU ARE COMPLETELY SURE THAT YOU HAVE MARKED OUT ALL THE PATTERN PIECES AND ARE HAPPY WITH THE LAYOUT. Cut out your pieces with small pointed scissors taking care to cut only the backing and not the pile.
CUTTING OUT: Check the direction of the pile of the fabric. Position the fabric wrong side up and place the pattern onto the fabric making sure that the fur pile runs in the direction shown by the arrows on the pattern. Trace around the pattern pieces with a thin permanent marker or a gel pen marking joints, openings...etc. With Alpaca, I use a water based leather adhesive on all the openings to prevent
Finished Size: Standing : 17cm (6 ¾ inches)
Remember when pinning the pieces together with the right sides facing to take care to push any pile that sticks out away from the cut edge. HEAD: Taking the two side head pieces, right sides together, pin these together and whip stitch from A -> D. Then back stitch from A-> D. Align the centre
same. Turn right sides out and repeat for the other leg. ARMS: With the right sides together, pin and whip stitch the arms together leaving an opening where indicated. Back stitch same. Turn right side out and repeat for the other arm.
RIWKHJXVVHW$ ZLWKVHDPRIWKH two side heads and secure with a few stitches to hold in place. Then pin in the gusset from A -> C on both sides. Then whip stitch from A-> C on each side. Then back stitch from A-> C on both sides. Turn right side out. BODY: On each body piece, whip stitch the dart first and then back stitch it. Place the body pieces together and whip stitch all the way around leaving an opening where indicated. Back stitch same leaving a small gap where indicated for the neck joint. This is to place the t-pin through when you are jointing the head. Turn right side out. LEGS: With right sides together, pin and whip stitch from the toe upward around the leg and down to the heel, leaving an opening where indicated. Back stitch same. Mark WKHIRRWSDG*DQG+ DVLQGLFDWHGRQWKH pattern and match these markings with the ones on the lower edge of the legs, pin and whip stitch. Then back stitch
EARS: Place the two ear pieces right sides together. Pin and whip stitch from K ->L. Back stitch same. Turn right side out and close this seam with a overcast stitch. Do not end off this thread as you will use it to attach the ears to the head. Repeat for the other ear. NOW YOU START PUTTING ALL THE BITS TOGETHER: HEAD: STUFFING THE HEAD: Starting with the nose and using small pieces of polyester filling, pack the head firmly using a stuffing tool. Take H[WUDFDUHWRVWXIIWKHQRVHILUPO\7KH head and especially the nose need to be firm and evenly stuffed. Do not stuff away without moulding the head as you go to retain the original shape of the head. EYE SCULPTING: Run a gathering stitch around the base of the neck with a strong thread or artificial sinew. Take DPPILEUHGLVFDQGDZDVKHU place the t-pin through the disc, and then place into the head. Pull up the gathering thread as tight as possible and tie off a couple of times with reef knots making
sure that it is secure. Then thread the ends of these threads onto a long doll needle and sink into the head. When happy with the shape and firmness of your bear’s head, you can do sculpting to form the eye sockets for the bear’s eyes. Thread a long doll needle with artificial sinew and make a small knot on the end. As close to the disc as possible sink the knot and bring the thread out under the chin as close to the centre seam as possible. Take a couple of small back stitches to secure. Take a small stitch over the chin seam DQGH[LW\RXUQHHGOHDIHZPLOOLPHWUHV from the seam at the eye position on the opposite side to where the needle entered under the chin. Take a small stitch over the seam at the eye position DQGH[LW\RXUQHHGOHXQGHUWKHFKLQ where you entered. Press firmly on the eye position as you pull on the thread, creating an eye socket. Continue to press on the eye socket as you take a couple of back stitches to secure this. Repeat this process for the other eye. Then continue with this process as many times as necessary to achieve the eye socket you are happy with. Check the sculpting as you go to ensure that the sockets are of the same depth.
stitch across the back side of the ear, sew each in place and then sink your thread into the head. Repeat for the other ear.
When you have achieved what you want, secure the sculpting thread under the chin and sink the thread. TRIMMING THE FUR ON THE FACE: This is optional. Here are a few guidelines. Trim the face a little at a time using sharp small scissors. Start under the chin so your bear has a profile and then remove the fur just in front of WKHH\HV7KHUHVWLVXSWR\RX-XVW remember, once the fur is cut you cannot get it back. So do a little at a time. You may add colouring to your bear’s face at this stage. I used a copic PDUNHU&DULEH&RFRD( 8VHD colourless blender to blend the colour. ATTACHING THE EARS: Pin onto head in the desired position and then take a couple of stitches at each end of the ear to hold them in place. Do this by catching a little bit of head fabric very close to the base of the ear and then the same on the corner of the ear. Repeat this at each end a couple of times. Then using a ladder
SETTING THE EYES: Decide on the location of the eyes. You can use TEST EYES for the purpose. When you have determined this, make small holes with an awl. Thread one eye on a decent length of sinew, thread both ends of sinew onto a long needle and insert at the eye position, H[LWLQJDWWKHEDFN of the head, as low as possible on the head gusset. Repeat for the other eye. Check to see that the eyes are in the correct position. When you are satisfied, take one end of one pair of threads and do a couple of backstitches, then do half a double ZUDSSHGNQRW3XOOWKHIUHHWKUHDGXSWKH one that you didn’t do the back stitches with), sinking the eye into position with gentle pressure. When you feel that the eye has settled in the socket, do a few more knots. Repeat the process for the other eye. Before you sink the threads, make sure that you are completely happy with the placement and symmetry. 7KHQVLQN\RXUNQRWV*LYHWKHP a tug and the knot should sink into the head. The threads can then be cut off close to the fabric. MAKING THE CLAY NOSE AND EMBROIDERING THE MOUTH: Trim the fur pile short in the area where the nose is to be attached. Taking your piece of sculpey clay, roll a ball in your hands the size that you think you will need. Keep checking the size against the bear’s nose. Once you
have got the size right, cut your piece of clay in half, and then reshape it to fit flat against the bears face in the position you have decided on. Once you are happy with the nose, take the piece of wire and bend it in a U-shape. Push this into the back of the nose. Place the clay nose on a baking tray on foil and bake IRUDSSUR[LPDWHO\PLQVDW&7KH baking time is shorter for smaller noses and longer for larger noses. Once baked and allowed to cool, remove the u-shaped wire from the back of the nose with your fur clamps. Place a drop of super glue into each hole and then replace the u-shaped wire into the nose. Allow to dry. Attach the nose as you would do your eyes. Once you have finished the nose, add the mouth in the shape of an inverted Y. Take your thread back to an ear and end off with a small back stitch, then sink it into the head and cut it off close to the fabric. ATTACHING THE STUFFED HEAD TO THE BODY: Push the T-pin through the small space left on the top of the body. Complete WKHDVVHPEO\E\SODFLQJWKHPP disc onto the t-pin and then a washer. Open out the T-pin as far as possible and then roll each side down onto the
ATTACHING THE ARMS AND LEGS: Make a hole with an awl at the markings for the joints. Place a washer then an arm disc onto a T-pin and insert this assembly into the arm ZLWK WKH 7SLQ H[WHQGLQJ RXW RI WKH joint hole. Insert the T-pin into the DUP KROH PDUNHG RQ WKH ERG\ EH sure that the arm is facing the correct direction). From the inside of the body locate the T-pin and place an arm disc, a washer onto the t-pin. Then open out the T-pin as far as possible and then roll each side down onto the disc with a cotter-pin turner as tight as possible. Attach the other arm and both legs in the same manner.
disc with a cotter-pin turner as tight as possible.
STUFFING THE BODY, ARMS AND LEGS: Using small cotton ball sized pieces of polyester filling, pack firmly right down
into the tips of the paws and crutch of the bear and into the neck with a stuffing tool. Add slowly until you have achieved the firmness that you want for the bear. Close the openings with a ladder stitch. If you would like your bear to free stand, then make sure that the bear is firmly stuffed. Small glass pellets or garnet sand in the feet will also assist your bears balance. Your bear is now complete. Congratulations. Place a kiss on its nose and welcome it into the world giving it the name you have chosen. I have decorated Suzie with a bow on her head and a charm bottle around her neck. Susan Leigh Of Bearleigh Bears Can Be Contacted On: Kits Available For Suzie: Aud$50 Mobile: 043 801 6714 Website: www.bearleighbears.com Email: [email protected]
Advertise here Call Cindy Francis on (07) 5499 9837
p ve o Lea
Vol. 20 No. 6
NB: A 4MM SEAM ALLOWANCE IS INCLUDED ON ALL PATTERN PIECES
Cut 4 Reverse 2
Cut 2 Reverse 1
Cut 2 Reverse 1
Suzi Side Head
Cut 4 Reverse 2
Cut 4 Reverse 2
Suzi Foot Pad Cut 2 Reverse 1
Suzi Eye white Template
SUZI © SUSAN LEIGH OF BEARLEIGH BEARS BEAR CREATIONS
PROFILE – ANN-MARIE DODD OF BEARMETOO
My Favourite Part Of Making Bear Is The Finished Result My Favourite part of making a bear is the finished result EDITED BY SUSAN LEIGH
live in a small town in the south of Sweden with my husband and three children. We live five minutes from an old castle and lake with surrounding woodland. It is so lovely and peaceful to walk here. I find the colour changes throughout the year very inspirational. I have been making bears for nearly 10 years and next year I will celebrate this anniversary. I don´t know how I’ll be celebrating yet, maybe with a teddy bear giveaway… I first became interested in bears on a trip in England where I spotted a teddy bear magazine. After reading it I was totally hooked. I couldn´t wait to get home to have a try myself. I have loved it ever since. I have always been creating things. I started knitting at the age of seven and have been doing knitting, drawing, sewing, crochet since then. As long as my fingers was doing something I knew I was happy. I love to create and try new ideas and techniques. I haven´t been doing any bear making classes as there are none back home. I have learned everything I know about teddy bear making myself the hard way, try and try again until you are happy with the result. I like bears that are a bit different from the traditional teddy bears. 60
That is why I started to needle felt the faces as I could do my own style. In the beginning I made bigger bears but I have over the years made smaller and smaller bears. I do not do the same bears all the time as I like to try to change my pattern sometimes. I do not have a favorite colour, as I find it depends on what mood I am in when I start on a new bear. I like to use the best material you can get on the market. And to me that is Schulte mohair / alpaca / viscose from Germany. You really get the
best result with it and it is so nice to work with. When you are a beginner to bear making then you can get cheaper mohair to work with as you might do some mistakes and have to start over again. I like that my bears stand out from a normal teddy bear and I love when collectors tell me how my bears make them smile. To me there is nothing better than that. Even people who are not collectors appreciate the style and comment the work put in. I feel my bears’ needle-felted faces are
part of my signature style. I knew from the beginning I wanted to do something different and I had some needle felt yarn at home so I started to try to make a teddy bear face. As I hadn´t any experience from needle felting either, it took some time to get the face just right. My bears have definitely changed over the years. You as an artist always try to make something better or try new techniques, well I am like that and I am sure most artists try to improve their work all the time. My favourite
PROFILE – ANN-MARIE DODD OF BEARMETOO
part of making bears is the finished result, when the bear is looking back at you with its black little eyes. My inspiration can be anything, from nature to something you see in a magazine or to just look through my mohair stash what to use. My special tip for making a bear is to stuff the bear head “hard” otherwise the nose won´t be easy to sew. My most memorable experience was during my first show in London a few years back, I remember it like yesterday: people rushed to my stand to get hold of my bears and
I was so surprised and “shocked” with happiness. I had no idea that collectors liked my bears; it was lovely to see and to speak to them. I regularly attend bear shows in Munster and Wiesbaden in Germany, and attend Hugglets in London once a year. I enjoy meeting other artists face to face and seeing the face of collectors when they see my teddy bears. I´m always on the look-out for accessories for my bears, which can be from craft fairs exhibitions or I will knit a hat or sew a dress. I usually
make the outfits myself and then put a bell or ribbon with it. I sell my bears from my website, bear pile and Facebook. As there is no local market you need to reach further out. Otherwise I would only be able to attend craft fairs. My friends and family think I´m talented and at least they know where I am all the time! Lol that is in my studio. My Mum has been an inspiration, full of support and help with some dressmaking when time was short. As a child my mother and her mother taught me to knit and later I helped my mother making dresses for dolls. My advice to new bearmakers is to find your own style and don´t be afraid to make mistakes. Practice makes perfect. I have entered a number of competitions and have won two TOBY Industry’s Choice Awards, and first place in TED Worldwide Awards 2014/2015 among other competitions. I have also come second place in URSA 2010, BBAA 2009 and 2010, and in Taiwan Teddy Bear Awards 2011. 6. Ann-Marie Dodd of BearMeToo can be contacted at: E-mail : [email protected]
Website : www.bearmetoo.se
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Chen A panda who begs for cuddles Designed by Kerynn of Taralee Teds MATERIALS )DW WK EODFN PRKDLU )DW WK FUHDP RU OLJKW PRKDLU [ PP GLVF ORFNQXW MRLQW VHWV 8OWUD VXHGH IRU IRRWSDGV DQG eye inserts PP JODVV H\HV SO\ EODFN 3HUOH WKUHDG :RRO URYLQJ LQ DQ DSSURSULDWH FRORXU
PREPARATION This pattern includes a 5mm seam allowance. Transfer all pattern pieces onto templastic or cardboard, making sure all markings are included, and then cut the pattern out. Determine the pile direction of your mohair pieces and ensure that the arrow on each pattern piece goes in the same direction as the pile. Transfer all markings on to the back of the appropriate colour mohair and then cut out each piece with pointed scissors, ensuring you only snip the backing and not the fur pile. At this stage you might like to trim the mohair from the area marked on the muzzle. This can be done once the head is sewn and stuffed too. HEAD Pin or tack the two head side pieces, right sides together from A to B, and using the matching thread, backstitch together firmly. Then insert the head gusset, overcast and then sew with small firm stitches. Ensure that the muzzle is sitting square in the muzzle
for needlefelting 1HHGOHV IRU IHOWLQJ D VWDUWHU DQG D finishing off should suffice) &RSLF PDUNHUV IRU VKDGLQJ 3RO\HVWHU VWXIILQJ VWHHO VKRW LQ D piece of old stocking if desired) 6WURQJ WKUHDG LQ PDWFKLQJ FRORXUV 6SDQQHU DQG VFUHZGULYHU $ZO
area. Leave the neck open for the joint. Turn right sides out and using the stuffing tool, gently ease out all the seams and free trapped fur from the seams. Take very small pieces of polyfil and roll slightly before poking into the nose area of the muzzle. The smaller the pieces of polyfil, the firmer the nose will be. Continue stuffing the head, moulding it slightly as you go, until you achieve the desired effect. Using strong thread, sew a running stitch around the opening and gather in just slightly leaving the ends of the thread free to secure once the disc is inserted. Assemble a disc, washer and bolt and glue together with super glue. Allow this to dry and test for strength then insert it into the opening, drawing that gathering around the protruding bolt firmly. Tie off, securing the ends inside the head. EYES Determine where you want the panda eye inserts to go. Use the photograph as a guide. I use a small amount of a
'ROO QHHGOH 6WXIILQJ WRRO D FKRSVWLFN LV JRRG 6PDOO EUXVK IRU ILQLVKLQJ RII 7HPSODVWLF RU FDUGERDUG )LQH PDUNLQJ SHQ 6KDUS SRLQWHG VFLVVRUV *HQHUDO VHZLQJ HTXLSPHQW Finished size: DSSUR[ FPV LQFKHV
clear craft glue to hold them in place. Don’t use too much or you will find it very hard to put the needle through when attaching the eyes. Using a long doll needle and double, strong thread or sinew, thread an eye and insert the needle into the eye socket where you have decided the eye should be placed. (Squeeze the wire loop flat so it will sink into the head) Exit at the back of the neck, close to the disc. Repeat for the other eye, bringing the threads out a couple of millimetres from the first threads. Pull the threads gently to sink the wire into the head and to create eye sockets. Tie off together and sink the knot into the head. If you wish to add some shading to the eye area this can be done now or later. EARS With right sides together, backstitch the ear pieces together, leave an opening on the straight edge open. Turn right sides out and sew onto the head with a ladder stitch.
be attached. Turn right side out. LIMBS Match inner and outer arms and with right sides together overcast and then sew. Leave an opening
NOSE AND MOUTH If not done already, trim the muzzle using the photograph as a guide. Cut a template for the nose out of a scrap of black felt or ultra-suede and pin into position on the muzzle. Using e Perle thread, embroider the nose with firm, even satin stitches. Bring the needle out at the centre base of the nose and embroider the mouth with straight stitches, in an inverted Y-shape. Tie a knot before you do the last stitch so that it will sink just under the fabric and hold in place. Pass the needle right through the bears head and snip off so it disappears. BODY Match the light and dark pieces of the top and bottom body sections and sew together. Sew the darts at the top and bottom of the body on both side SLHFHVRIWKHERG\1RZ\RXKDYH two side body pieces. Match these together and starting at point C sew around the body to point D, leaving a small opening for turning and jointing. Use the awl to open up the holes where the head and limbs will
between the markings. Use the same method for the legs but leave the base of the foot open. The footpad will be inserted here. )ROGWKHIRRWSDG piece in half and mark at the toe and heel on the centre line. Match these marks to the leg seams. Use a tacking stitch to hold the footpads at the seams and then overcast and backstitch the footpad in place. Repeat for other leg and open the joint
holes with the awl, before turning right sides out. ASSEMBLY Insert the bolt protruding from the base of the head, into the hole you have left at the neck in the body SLHFHDWWKHGDUW )LQLVKRIIWKHMRLQW with the disc, washer and nut inside the body, and tighten. Ensure that it is very firm. Over time the joints can loosen so it’s better to start tight. You may wish to put a drop of super glue where the nut and bolt meet to make doubly sure it won’t come undone. Partly assemble the limb joints and place the bolt through the holes at the top of the arms and legs. Insert the joints into the appropriate joint holes on the body, attach a disc, washer and then a locknut. Hold the bolt with the screwdriver while tightening the locknut with the spanner. Make sure all the limbs are tightened evenly. Stuff the limbs firmly with polyfil using small amounts at a time. Pay particular attention to the footpads and around the joints, then close the openings with ladder stitch and strong thread. Stuff the body the same way, placing a small amount of steel shot which you have secured in some stocking, before you fill the
body too much. Ensure the body is firmly stuffed and then close with ladder stitch. NEEDLEFELTING Take a small amount of wool and roll it into a soft ball, then using your starter needle, punch it into the footpad where you want the toes and heel to go (using a disappearing marker on light fabric or chalk pencil on dark fabric can be beneficial to get the right placement). )HOWWKHSDGVZLWKVPDOODPRXQWVRI wool, gradually building up the layers until you have the desired effect. Use the finishing off needle to get a nice, smooth effect. You can also use the copic markers to add shading to the foot pads around the felting if desired. )LQLVKRIIZLWKDERZDURXQGWKH neck, or similar adornment if desired. Your new little Chen is now ready for lots of hugs! Taralee Teds by Kerynn [email protected]
EXCLUSIVE NANA’S TEDDIES READERS’OFFER
Collectable Doll Clearance After many years Nana’s Teddies & Toys are selling off all their hundreds of dolls to make room for more teddy bears. Due to a dramatic decline in the number of dolls available to us we have decided after much thought and discussion to clear out all our stocks of over 400 dolls, all brands and styles and you the collector are the winner with a great opportunity to get some rare and valuable dolls at a huge 30% % off normal prices, all designs still available are on our website catalogue Kewpie 100th Anniversary www.teddys.com.au was $30 now $18
Farrington Gill was $299 now $179
Florence Baby Sienna was $89 now $53
Princess Catherine Wedding Doll was $259 Now $155
Kirima Eskimo Doll was $349 now $209
*UHDW :HVWHUQ +Z\ %URRNODQGV 9LOODJH %OD[ODQG 16:
Vol. 20 No. 6
Chen Upper Body Cut 2 (1 reversed) Black A
Chen Side Head
C Arm Joint
Cut 2 (1 reversed) Light Colour
Chen Eye Patch Cut 2 (1 reversed) Black
Chen Lower Body
Chen Head Gusset
Cut 1 Light Colour
Cut 2 (1 reversed) Light Colour
Chen Foot Pad Cut 2 Black
Chen Leg Cut 4 (2 reversed) Black
Chen Ear Cut 4 (2 reversed) Black
Cut 2 (1 reversed) Black
pe Leave o
Chen Outer Arm
Chen Inner Arm Cut 2 (1 reversed) Black
Chen © Kerynn of Taralee Teds
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PROFILE – KAREN-ANNE JONES
A Hobby Just for Herself and More Karen-Anne Jones of Bears in the Barn and Other Things Too tells how a hobby has become even more.
here really doesn’t seem a time that I can remember not loving teddies and of course my dolls too, not unlike most little girls
I suppose. I still have the bear that my grandmother gave me when I was very small. I have a recollection of the story about this teddy bear possibly
falling from a car or being on the road and my grandmother picking him up and giving him to me. Now I think back, I do hope that the other little
person who lost it was not too upset! From an early age I remember being interested in all different types of craft work and in my late teens and early 20s always knitting for my nephews and nieces. Anything from mittens, sleeping bags, jumpers and then of course came the knitted teddies and dolls. I worked in Melbourne’s CBD for 13 years at the Red Cross Blood Bank, so there was always plenty of time to complete projects while travelling back and forth on the trains to and from work. In those days the trains were known as the old red rattlers – so a few stitches were dropped in the process. After my son Aaron was born, like a lot of mums, time was pretty well taken up doing the things that we mums have to do. Occasionally I would start projects, and Christmas presents were mostly handmade for a lot of years, but on the whole not a great deal was produced during this time. Life became very busy with kindergarten and then school; and
as well as being PFA President I had decided to take on the job of being a Family Day Carer … lots of teddy bears coming into the house now! In 1997, a group of ladies from a local church advertised that they were running a bear making course – so my good friend Vicki and I went along. I felt I needed a fresh start in my craft interests and something just for me to do. Well that was it, I was really hooked. Now guess what everyone got for Christmas and birthdays for the next couple of years! We went out and bought a lot of synthetic material, so much so that I still have some of it to this day. I started buying magazines and using the patterns from those and then bought a few kits and patterns from various outlets. After a number of bears later I realised that I really liked using mohair and began to concentrate on using this material most of the time. In 1998, I changed my work arrangements and began working as an out-of-school-hours care co-ordinator.
The hours of work left me the middle part of the day to concentrate on bear making, however the housework and other things still needed to be done; so after a little while I slowed down on the bear making again. However during holiday care at school we did have a few ‘Teddy Bears Picnic’ days! Mind you, the bears and books were never far away from my chair, and I found myself playing around with my own designs. I would draw different looks and ideas in an exercise book, and write little notes about what I liked and didn’t like as much. Then I found the book written by Jennifer Laing ‘Teddy Bear Art – How to Design and Make Great Teddy Bears’. This was a great addition to my ever growing library of magazines and books and is a wonderful reference book to have. Helen Batchelor was teaching at Warragul a few years ago and I was able to attend her workshop there. It was a great workshop and provided me with lots of tips about bear making, as BEAR CREATIONS
PROFILE – KAREN-ANNE JONES
well as having great company with like-minded people. I also attended a ‘Noses’ workshop with Heather Harwood at Bear Essence in Boronia. As we all know, noses can sometimes give us grief; so it was a very valuable one to attend and one I would recommend. Over the years I have entered a few shows, and have been really pleased with the results. Sometimes I received ribbons, however the most valuable information from entering is receiving the critique from the judges’ score sheets. This provides valuable knowledge for improving on your own technique, style and skills. Sometimes we look for other ways to express our creative talents but still keep within the love of bears. I love to make small quilts and wall hangings and have even taken folk art classes to paint bears. About nine months ago I discovered the felted way of life. I purchased a book by Barbara Allen called ‘Needlefelting Magic Making Beautiful Teddybears’. Once again I was hooked! I had to start making one straight away. This is becoming a very rewarding craft for me as I watch the little tiny bears develop as I am felting. The sizes I like to make range from about 6cm up to about 10cm. It is easy to start out with an idea or pencil drawing and end up with something completely different, being inspired by my surroundings and my mood at the time. I entered the 2007 Melbourne Teddy Bear Show at Mt Waverley and 72
won a blue rosette and three highly commended ribbons, so that was very pleasing indeed. I feel that I am still developing, or looking for my own special style in bear making, although there are certain aspects of design that I really like. Large noses, big feet and long arms are some of the characteristics that I find endearing in a bear. I prefer not to fully dress my bears, just adding a bow, a waist coat, key, or similar adornment. I like to give my bears names from special people in my life and I also use dual names, just like mine! My felted bears all have belly buttons too. Bears are not the only things that are collected in our house. My husband Dennis and I have many collecting passions. We have quite a large collection of tins of all shapes, sizes and ages. Blue Depression glass finds its way into our home also. Dennis collects old petrol tins and memorabilia and builds and restores hot rods. Lots of ‘old’ things appear
around the property, such as tin signs, petrol bowsers, and furniture; and we even have a 1950s Courtney caravan. This of course has to be filled with old ’50s memorabilia! During the last two years I have become very focused on a new direction in my life. I think this happens during the so called ‘midlife crisis’ years, and with the encouragement from my wonderful husband and family (Mum and Dad, five terrific children and nine beautiful grandchildren) it seems that it is becoming a reality, not just a dream. I have lots of lovely friends who, like me, are interested in all types of craft. It has been my dream to have somewhere to hold craft nights and days so we can all get together and share ideas, a cuppa and a lot of laughs. So began the plans to build a purpose built barn which was completed in January 2007. We now have our ‘Girls Night Out’ in the barn and are soon to start
daytime ones, too. Dennis is forever adding another shelf, or building another storage cupboard; or his other job is helping with the jointing of my bears, which is an invaluable service. At the end of January 2008 I took long service leave for five months to really get the barn up and running. I will be teaching basic bear making classes and also needle felted bears, plus building up my supply of bears and kits to be able to share with other arctophiles. A website is in progress, but everything happens at a reasonable pace, so it can’t all happen at once. The aim is for retirement from paid employment, so let’s hope that my five months long service leave are successful! Karen-Anne Jones of Bears in the Barn and Other Things Too can be contacted on: Ph: 03 5942 7391 Email: [email protected]
Show Review EBEARSHOW EDITED BY SUSAN LEIGH
bearshow have just finished their 8th show with the theme “Calm or Colourful”. It was a sellout show for several artists – there were hundreds of lovely creations and beautiful work. Here are the prize winners for this show: VWSODFH²0HULO\Q3XUFHOORI Bearwildered Bears QGSODFH²0RQLTXHYDQ0DDQHQRI 2ULJLQDO0RQ%HDUV UGSODFH²/RUL6LPRQRI)RUEHDUVDNH -XGJHV&KRLFH²6XH.UHVVHRI .UHVVHNUDIW 7KHWK6KRZZDVKHOGLQ'HFHPEHU with the theme “Quaint or Quirky” and there were some wonderful creations showcasing this theme. We had several new artists for this show. Here are the prize winners for this show: VWSODFH²0RQLTXHYDQ0DDQHQRI 2ULJLQDO0RQ%HDUV QGSODFH²)LRQD6HOZ\QRI6HOZ\Q Bears UGSODFH²$QQH0DULH9HUURQRI /·2XUV7RPEH'HV(WRLOHV -XGJHV&KRLFH²6XH.UHVVHRI .UHVVHNUDIW We are always looking for new artists – and collectors – so register on our website at www.ebearshow.com and you will get emails notifying you of show dates – voting and anything else LPSRUWDQW Any questions please contact me on [email protected]
MELBOURNE BEAR BAZAAR BY
OW!! WOW!! WOW!! Bear Essence from 7RRUDGLQLQ9LFWRULD bought a wonderful show to WKHEHDUZRUOGRQWKHWK 2FWREHU The show was held at the Cardinia &XOWXUDO&HQWUH /DNHVLGH%RXOHYDUG3DNHQKDP 9LFWRULD:KDWDZRQGHUIXO YHQXH7KHUHZDVORDGVRISDUNLQJ a lovely large, bright trading hall
DQGDFDIpRQVLWHIRUHYHU\RQH·V IRRGDQGGULQNUHTXLUHPHQWV There were a large number of artist bear makers in attendance. They SURYLGHGDYDVWUDQJHRIEHDUVIRU sale. There were realistic bears, lots of different critter and fantasy bears. Bears dressed in their finest and DQWLTXHEHDUVWRQDPHEXWDIHZ There were also a great variety of EHDUVXSSOLHVDYDLODEOHZLWKORDGV of mohair in all lengths and colours.
$QGDOVRDOOWKHRWKHUOLWWOHWKLQJV\RX might need when making bears. 0DUN\RXUGLDULHVDVWKHVKRZWKLV \HDULVRQ6XQGD\WK2FWREHU IURPDPWLOOSP 7DNHDORRNDWWKH)DFHERRNSDJH facebook.com/melbournebearbazaar For more information contact: Bear Essence : (03) 5998 3535 Email: [email protected]
Mobile: Kim 0433 919 209
DEANS BEARS OF DISTINCTION RANGE – NOW RETIRED Cuthburt
Nana’s Teddies & Toys are excited to share this news flash with you, as long time collectors of Deans Bears they have a real passion for this traditional old English bear company and look forward each year to their new seasons releases. Deans are Britain’s oldest teddy bear manufacturer starting business as the Deans Rag Book company in 1903 making not only their world famous rag books but a selection of toys and since 1915 some of the most collectable bears to ever come out of England. This year they sprang a big surprise on us, not only are they doing their normal mohair collectable bears but they have just announced a brand new range of collectable plush bears to compliment their line up. The new range will be called “Distinctly Dean’s” and is the first time that Dean’s have released a collectable series made in high quality plush fur, the traditionally only produce mohair bears. This new initiative is a welcome Handsome
venture which will bring the traditional heritage and quality of Deans into a price range that will surely add a new generation of fans and collectors to Britain’s Oldest and most respected brand. 14 new designs all fully jointed and made from the very best of plush furs available will be the first ambassadors of the Distinctly Deans Collection, they are now in stock for immediate delivery. Only a limited edition of 200 of each design will be produced so they will be quite collectable and with each design being priced under $119 they will be snapped up quite quickly. Each bear will be individually numbered with a certificate of authenticity. And as a added bonus if you are quick to place an order for the entire set of 14 bears we can offer a matching set of numbers making your set an even more collectable investment. A special price is offered for collectors purchasing a complete matching numbered set. Happy
Cuthburt 35cm $109 A very traditional English gentleman indeed. resplendent in a nice dark grey herringbone tweed waistcoat complimented with a patterned satin bow tie he makes an imposing figure. Made of a thick short pile plush fur Cuthbert has an air about him accentuated by his larger than normal ears that he says make him look a bit like one of his heroes, Prince Charles.
Dainty 35cm $99.95 A Panda with style, Dainty is resplendant in his rich brown and cream tones. a little softer and daintier than the traditional black and white of most pandas. Made of a thick brown and cream plush furs she is fully jointed and wears a nice olive satin bow that compliments her beautiful sad eyes.
Dashing 40cm $119 Dashing certainly lives up to his name, with a thick plush coat that you can sink your fingers into he is a perfect hugger, and he theinks he looks quite dashing with his bright crimson satin bow tie.
Dreamer 37cm $109 No points for guessing how he got his name, he spends most of his time gazing out the window and dreaming of all the adventures a teddy could have in this great big world. But most of all he dreams of the new family that will adopt him and fun it will be to explore his new home.
Handsome 32cm $95 What a striking looking fellow is Handsome, from his plush black tipped grey fur to his elegant polka dot bow tie and contrasting paw pads he certainly turns the heads of the lady bears. Hopeful
Happy 32cm $95
Happy is a super cuddly teddy bear with a love of big hugs, I guess that’s why he is happy. Made of a thick cream plush fur he is fully jointed and sports a nice traditional red tartan bow tie.
Hopeful 40cm $109 How could you not fall in love with Hopeful, he promises to be a good and constant companion and vows to always look on the bright side of life and cheer you up when you are having a bad day. I reackon that if I was feeling down a hug from Hopeful would make me feel a whole lot better Made of a thick golden plush fur he is fully jointed and sports a nice big green satin tie, and as any Irish man will tell you green is the colour of luck.
Melody 35cm $84.95 So who is Pretty in Pink? From the top her head to the tip of her toes with a small exception for her contrasting paw pads Melody is all about pink, she even prefers pink satin in her bow.
Merry 35cm $99.95 You can’t get more traditional than this delightful black and white panda. Made of a thick black and white plush furs he is fully jointed and rich blue satin bow tie is a striking contrast adding to his almost regal disposition.
Pixie 30cm $75 Pixie is cute cuddly and feminine without being too girly. She is very pleased with her rich toffee brown fur coat and wont venture out wihout her red gingham checked bow.
Rafferty 35cm $109 Rafferty has a slightly serious look about him but don’t let this fool you, although he tries to keep a typical British reserve he really is a gentle soul and loves a hug as much as the next bear. His thick plush fur is complimented by his tweed waistcoat and large gold satin bow tie.
Reverie 32cm $95 Great looks, big feet and ears, a face that would melt hearts and personality plus, thats Reverie. Made of a thick cream plush fur he is fully jointed and his good looks are enhanced by his rich copper stitched nose and a lovely cream satin bow tie.
Whimsey 40cm $119 Big brown and beautiful, a real old english style of teddy bear just crying out to be loved. He doesn’t mind who adopts him so long as they like cuddles in front of the telly and the occasional midnight snack however in his more whimsical moments he dreams of having his own little human to care for and play games with on a rainy day. Made of a thick chocolate brown plush fur he is fully jointed and sports a vibrant red organza bow tie.
Wistful 37cm $95 Wistful is both a bit of a rascal and also a deep thinker, he will often be found sitting alone pondering the universe. One day he would like to be a famous explorer but for now he is content to just think about what he would do when he grows up. Made of a dense long pile plush fur he is fully jointed and is wearing a very large woolen scarf which keeps him warm when he is just sitting for hours.
You can see the entire new collection on our online website at www.teddys.com.au they are in their own special category called Deans Plush designs. For more information contact: Nana’s Teddies & Toys on 02 4739 0677 they are open 7 days 9am-5pm 21 Great Western Hwym Brooklands Village, Blaxland NSW BEAR CREATIONS
What stuffing will give the best weight and feel to a bear? What goes inside the fur of the best bears? FIBRE STUFFING Polyfill/Fibre fill – his is the most co n and ern the fillings. It can be packed quite fir y or left soft and squish e ality of the stuffing can var fro coarse a scratchy to soft and bounc I test by scrunchi a handful into a ball and releasing. I prefer it not to “gr too much on release, l s b ncy is e manageable. I also li a soft feel to the coarse s atch as it tends not to “lu ” while stuffin n e ott r s hi n th od nl r ir n eavy an up rt e si oxe nd gro er thou llo n he ve an fall thi od se he hea o l in lmo ossible t nser e l hroug e e arg ttres ee us t wit alc e n sting scre n io rc hroug hav mal ol h andl y
stuffin oo hic av se us he nee hro e n h os a nightmar o i eavie ea u sof u hi n olyfil may b ns ol – b utiful firm stuffing that stays e it is put; it’s fantastic in the zzle. I prefer wo for stuffing the tops of t ar and legs over the joints and in the body around the neck j nt and use polyfill else ere, if ginned cotton cannot obtained wool would be the best substitute. Excelsior/ wool h origina stuffing. e to the s and health hazards, it is ge rall only used in restorin d bears or those o are looking for authenticity in antiquing their be s. e a face sk ile working th it. e, take a s ll a unt and roll it in r hands like a cigar before pus ng it into your bea This stuffing has been kno to attract pests and does break down with age.
Coconut Fibre – s with excelsior but much fine used very little and usually where exc lsior could not be obtained.
NON-FIBRE FILLINGS Plastic Pellets – I prefer the small ball pell s to the lindrical llets as they feel s her in the bea a wei t being esse i ly of a light materi if y nt a lot t the r st lar r b ore t y are really effecti . In a large bear the can b ed in the feet and the leg to assi in king the bear a “stan al ” a Ens e t y n’t round ou the bott t fe . h ke the tu feel s t s ish a ca give a lo ly ta ile feel to t bea Stainles tee o n replace n o ea ic as beco n a ealt azard The iv ea i h ich ca k ee hou ha ic he s llne h h e l efer t l l a id h ea S a ls ac xtr tres ea du t ig avi lose n a ensibl re utio ass ds – t previous two they add i t to t be and ve a huggy and squishy feel. It can be
QUESTION AND A E I E
la i p l ts
A: d bea together or mac the
y obtained in various sizes and can be exc llent f r reall s all be rs. gain; like steel it n e an ero s if a se brea s er t e stress a d it is best if sewn into an internal bag.
OTHER INNER WORKINGS Music o es – an e bought ith an exte er to ake th key sit ut f rthe . T is can b go d for a bi ger ear and will ens re that t e f r aroun the key do not t rn it fin ers ru bing on it hile t rning t e e . ake s re the tuffin is fir ; re on ile the fact that you ca n t ha e a soft bear ith a music box. (S e ginne cotton r o l) Mu ic wit aggl ea ajor proble i th stuffin ettin ca g t arou t ec anis an sto pin the hea ove en ai gi cott ould b bes an suc es hin e o correct stuffin o ea an d. Gr le – ecide at the beginning whether ur bear ill h e to o ead over heels t ro l r oll fro his ack to his fr t. If the chil ill be ps t t se his fri nd t rne o is head r if the b ar is large and he c ild s all, t y to ba k ay b re ractical. Double ra the gr ler in sto kin to stop s all fi res enteri g t e growler a d st ppi g it fro orking. (See ginned cotto r ool) Squea e s a d ou h/Push Music a ers re est pla ed in a paw or foot and stuffed lightly around.
Nod and No Mechanism – Unless you a e a dedicated patt rn you ill nee to adjust t e ne k o the he d. Like the ag le head the success of these chanis s hi ge on the st ffing holding the in place it ut getting caught p in t . ai I re ommend ginne cotton or ool for t is. Loc-li r atur the l ok like beads nested togeth r and elp t e li b ov a d old pose. It can be used ith a dis joi t or as a stan alone skeleto . est in e iu to big bears and can dd an unintended to sque k t the bea . Flexli r at r pliabl metal c r enc se i t ic r b e t b nd attache t t join use t ose th ar n le o eve i i a te . D no verstu th li i il then becom difficul t mov o ben .
Mu i Bo an Wag l Head
BASIC BEAR TECHNIQUES
Whip Stitch BY SUSAN LEIGH
his stitch is used for basting together the pattern pieces and holding them together temporarily until more permanent sewing has been completed with the back stitch. By doing this you are ensuring that
all the fur is out of the way and not caught in the seam and the pins can be removed before you use a machine. Remember when basting your pieces together, do not let your stitches go any deeper than the seam allowance or they will show after the piece is
turned though. Starting with a knot at the end of your thread, enter at A and go over the seam edges and into B. Repeat this all along the edge of the pattern piece as seen in the pictures alongside.
n O s ’ at Wh
What’s on near you? Keep informed with Bear Creations Diary. Are there workshops, fetes, festivals or exhibitions coming up? If your club, organisation or craft group is planning an event we would love to know. Please forward the relevant details to ‘Show Dates’ Bear Creations Magazine PO Box 8035 Glenmore Park 2745 or email [email protected]
WORKSHOPS AND WEEKLY CLASSES – 2017: HELEN GLEESON FROM BARE CUB DESIGNS: 1 DAY WORKSHOP DATE: Saturday 28th, Monday 30th & Tuesday 31st October 2017 Manda Theart with her miniature polymer clay designs will be coming in early November, Merilyn Pursell of Bearwildered Bears will be there in early October. Linda Benson of Benson Bears, Lyn Parker of Parker Bears, Susan Leigh of Bearleigh Bears and Susie McMahon will also be doing workshops in the 2nd half of the year. Please contact Kim for these dates. SHOWS PENRITH DOLLS, BEARS, CRAFT AND COLLECTIBLES SHOW: Date: Sunday 18th June 2017 Time: 10am – 4pm Venue: Panthers World of Entertainment, Exhibition Pavilion, Penrith, NSW. Enquiries: Doll and Bear Competition inquiries: Val Newman 02 9602 2242 after 5pm Trader Enquiries: Gail 0407498021 9am – 5pm SUNRAYSIA 24TH ANNUAL DOLL AND BEAR SHOW: Date: Saturday 8th and Sunday 9th July 2017 Time: Saturday 10am – 4pm Sunday 10am – 3pm Venue: Trinity Lutheran College, 920 Fifteenth Street, Mildura, VICTORIA Enquiries: Ros: 03 5023 8182 Elizabeth: 03 5027 4578 SUNSHINE COAST DOLL, BEAR, CRAFT AND MINIATURE SHOW: Date: Sunday 16th July 2017
Venue: Buderim War Memorial Hall, Main Road, Buderim, QLD Enquiries: Sue Hawker: 07 5451 1106 Email: [email protected]
LIVERPOOL DOLL, BEAR AND CRAFT SHOW – 36TH ANNUAL DOLL FAIR: Date: Saturday 29th and Sunday 30th July 2017 Time: Saturday 10am – 4pm Sunday 10am – 3pm Venue: Liverpool Catholic Club, Cnr Hoxton Park Road and Joadja Road, Liverpool, NSW Enquiries: 02 4393 9973 Email: [email protected]
Website: www.dollclubnsw.com.au BRISBANE DOLL SOCIETY INC DOLL AND BEAR FAIR: Date: 26th August 2017 Time: 9am – 3pm Venue: Waterloo Bay Leisure Centre, 241 Tingal Road, Wynnum, QLD Enquiries: Lyn 07 3802 2548 HOBART DOLL CLUB SHOW: Date: Saturday 26th and Sunday 27th August 2017 Time: 10am – 4pm Venue: Royal Hobart Showgrounds Grandstand, Glenorchy, TAS Enquiries: Sue 0407 489 411 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN REBORN AND EXHIBITION DOLL SHOW: Date: Saturday 14th and Sunday 15 October 2017 Time: 10am – 4pm Venue: Fullarton Park, Community Centre, 411 Fullarton Road, SA
Enquiries: Jackie 08 8398 0423 www.sareborndollguild.com.au WOLLONGONG DOLL CLUB ANNUAL DOLL, BEAR AND CRAFT FAIR: Date: Saturday 21st October 2017 Time: 9:30 am – 4pm Venue: Wollongong Town Hall, Crown Street, Wollongong, NSW Enquiries: Rosemarie 02 4229 7010 MELBOURNE BEAR BAZAAR: Date: Sunday 29th October 2017 Time: 10am – 4:30pm Venue: 40 Lakeside Boulevard, Pakenham, Victoria Enquiries: Bear Essence 03 5988 3535 Email: [email protected]
Facebook: facebook.com/ melbournebearbazaar MUSEUM OF FIRE ANNUAL DOLL, BEAR AND CRAFT FAIR: Date: Saturday 28th and Sunday 29th October 2017 Time: 9:30am – 4:30pm Venue: 1 Museum Drive, Penrith, NSW Enquiries: Kris 02 4731 3000 Email: [email protected]
Website: www.museumoffire.com.au ALBURY/WODONGA DOLL, BEAR AND HOBBY SHOW: Date: Saturday 2nd and Sunday 3rd December 2017 Time: 10am – 4pm Venue: Mirambeena Community Centre, 19 Martha Mews, Lavington, NSW Enquiries: www.facebook.com/alburydollsow/ www.dollbearhobbyshow.com.au Margaret 002 097 565 BEAR CREATIONS
PUBLISHER Simon Mullen Email: [email protected]
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Susan Leigh, Lena Burghardt CREATIVE DIRECTOR Hayley Jagger PHOTOGRAPHER Alex Mullen DESIGNER Tara Mullen STYLIST Hayley Jagger ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Gail Pellizzon Phone: (02) 4733 8447 Fax :(02) 4733 8583 Email: [email protected]
NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Cindy Francis Phone: (07) 5499 9837 Email: [email protected]
SUBSCRIPTIONS COORDINATOR Phoebe Moore Phone: (02) 4722 2260 Fax: (02) 4733 8583 Email: [email protected]
B ar Australian
Issue 21-1 will be full of exciting projects, artist profiles and lots of tips and techniques. Look out for it in your local newsagent or purchase it from our website: www.wpco.com.au Or for a digital version from www.magzter.com
For back issues call 02 4733 8447 RETAIL SALES/OVERSEAS DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES Simon Mullen Email: [email protected]
Published, promoted and distributed by Woodlands Publishing Pty Ltd (ACN 115 093 162). All rights reserved. PRINTED BY Times Printing Pte Lty, Singapore 9950
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On sale soon! Visit our website today
A fine bone china mug that will take you back to your childhood
ou will love these teddy bear mugs, place mats and coasters … as they take you back to your childhood. They are available from Morpeth Gallery, 175 Swan Street Morpeth NSW 2321 or just go to our website: www.funnyposterprints.com These fine bone china mugs, are made one at a time and are printed in the Hunter Valley, Australia from original watercolour paintings by revered Australian artist Gordon Hanley. They are very pretty, microwave and dishwasher friendly and they can only be purchased from Morpeth Gallery.
As well as each mug looking great they are also a pleasure to drink from as they have that lovely fine bone china touch as you bring them to your lips. These same designs are also available as dinner place mats and drink coasters in matching sets or as individual items. As a teddy bear lover you will love them, as the dinner placemats and coasters have a nice glossy finish on them, and as you look at them on the dining room table they will take you back to your childhood. Grandchildren, children,
parents and grandparents will all enjoy these images. Queensland artist Gordon Hanley is a master at combining the childhood innocence of much loved imaginary games and placing them in a nostalgic scene that has been created around his daughter and her friends as they grew up playing games with their Teddy Bears. Every little girl will have played games like these as a child and those wonderful memories will come flooding back to you as you enjoy your tea and coffee.
)LQH%RQH&KLQD&RIIHHPXJV$18. each 'LQQHU3ODFH0DWV$15. each 'ULQN&RDVWHUV $5. each $VHWRI )LQH%RQH&KLQDFRIIHHPXJ one of each design $80. $VHWRI GLQQHUSODFHPDWVRQHRI HDFK design $70. $VHWRI 'ULQNFRDVWHUVRQHRI HDFK design $20. $VHWRI PXJRQHSODFHPDWDQGRQH coaster $35. $OOGHVLJQVDVDVHWRI SLHFHV $175. Just visit www.funnyposterprints.com
You may purchase by Phone, Website or Email or visit Morpeth Bears Shop! Morpeth Bears, PO Box 36, MORPETH. NSW 2321 Australia Visit: www.funnyposterprints.com Web: www.morpethteddybears.com Email: [email protected]
Ph: 02 4933 1407 Fax: 02 4934 2107 Shop: Morpeth Bears, 5 Green Street, Morpeth NSW 2321 Australia Open Thursday to Sunday 10am –5pm.
Deans Bears of Distinction Range – NOW RETIRED – Limited Stocks Still Available ange of plush, fully jointed b n is limited to 200 bears wo
Dashing# 40cm $119
Melody# 35cm $84.95
Handsome# 32cm $95
Dreamer 37cm $109
Cuthburt 35cm $109
Hopeful# 40cm $109
Happy# 32cm $95
tock over 300 Deans B 15,000 b ars and animals. You can see them all in our online catalogue