Australian Amateur Boat Builder - January-March 2017.pdf

AUSTRALASIAN AMATEUR BOATBUILDER AND KITBOATS 1

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The MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival n Robert Ayliffe

8

In-water Cleaning of Hulls n Rosemary Jilderts

16

Barrie's Reviews n Barrie Armstrong

21

Scruffie World News n Derek Ellard

26

Torturing Plywood Into Boat Shapes n Dudley Dix

32

Tangalooma’s Whalers n David Jones

36

Trailaway Boat Kits News n Barrie Armstrong

41

Shipmate! n Barrie Callaghan

42 Dutch Treats Sailing South for the MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival 44

Random Roving Boats Notes

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Build Your Own Rapid 5000 – Lightweight Trailer Boat n Craig Schionning

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Building the Moyne 12 – part one n Pat Reece

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The Woodruff Key n Richard Smith

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FireBug News n Peter Tait

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Bellinger Canoe Update n Dave Giddings

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Gold Coast Marine Expo Moves to March 2017

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Affordable Fisher – part 17 n Peter Caplen

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Retractable Navigation Lights n Accon Marine

73

Letters to the Editor

74

Yanmar at Work and in Retirement

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Ripple – The Perfect Tender n Spirited Designs

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Boats For Sale

FRONT COVER: MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival

publisher editor production accounts printing distribution

P & G Lynch & Assoc Pty Ltd Paul Lynch Wendy Elliston Gayl Lynch Beaudesert Times Gordon & Gotch

Editorial contributions and advertising enquiries to: Paul Lynch 10 Rina Court Varsity Lakes, Q 4227 PO Box 560, Varsity Lakes Q 4227 p: 07 5593 8187 e: [email protected]

Disclaimer: All opinions expressed in articles in this magazine are those of the writers concerned and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher. Copyright: Articles in this publication may not be reproduced without permission of the publisher and/or writer.

w w w. a m a t e u r b o a t b u i l d e r. c o m . a u australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 1

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THE MYSTATE AUSTRALIAN WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL by ROBERT AYLIFFE

The MyState Australian Wo o d e n B o a t Festival is held every two years and the next o n e ’s c o m i n g u p from February 10-13, 2017. H o b a r t ’s h i s t o r i c waterfront will come alive with the colour and excitement of our rich maritime culture a n d h i s t o r y.

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Y

ou will see hundreds of wooden boats, from magnificent tall ships to classic sailboats, rugged working boats to superbly detailed models. You’ll have a chance to talk to the owners and builders, the crafts people and sailors, and shipwrights who still practice traditional skills every day.

There’s a vibrant program of entertainment and fun, special guests, brilliant Tasmanian food and drink, demonstrations, races and displays. You can visit the Shipwright’s Village, the Maritime Marketplace, the Children’s Circus School, the International Wooden Boat Symposium and much, much more. The MyState

TAKE A CRUISE, BOARD A TALL SHIP, SNAP UP A FRESH CRAYFISH OR LISTEN TO SOME GREAT LIVE MUSIC IN THE WATERSIDE TAVERN

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Australian Wooden Boat Festival is the largest wooden boat festival in the southern hemisphere and admission is entirely free! The festival takes in the whole of Sullivan’s Cove from Hunter Street to Princes Wharf and Castray Esplanade. Hobart’s working waterfront is right in the middle of the central business district with a great range of hotels, apartments, cafés and pubs right on the doorstep. Take a cruise, board a tall ship, snap up a fresh crayfish or listen to some great live music in the Waterside Tavern. It’s all on for four wonderful days at Tasmania’s favourite summer festival. The festival opens with the glorious Parade of Sail on Friday afternoon and continues straight through the long weekend (Monday is a local public holiday in Hobart). The International Wooden Boat Symposium will present expert international and Australian speakers. The Maritime Marketplace hosts more than 80 exhibitors of hard-to-find maritime kit and boat building displays. The Shipwright’s Village celebrates the traditional skills and tools still used today in Tasmania’s artisan shipyards. Don’t miss the Tasmanian Fishing Industry Display at Victoria Dock and of course the brilliant program of entertainment in the Waterside Tavern.

AUSTRALIA’S OWN BOTE-COTE EPOXY SYSTEMS, FOUNDATION SPONSORS SINCE THE FIRST FESTIVAL, ARE BACK AGAIN

For an overview of what the festival features, you can download the 2015 Official Festival Program. The program for the 2017 event will be available on our website in late 2016. If you have questions in the meantime, just call us on (03) 6223 3375. Australia’s own Bote-Cote Epoxy Systems, foundation sponsors since the first festival, are back again. We’ll have new products and all the old favourites: Scheduled Forum and Q&A presentations, from Drive Marine’s Dave Giddings, Stray Dog Boat Work’s Ali and Robert Ayliffe and Mike Jansen, presenting Q&As on the New Norwalk Islands Sharpies

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range and Iain Oughtred designs, including the world runaway success St Ayles Skiff Community Coastal Rowing adventure and on the Boatcraft Pacific stand here will be scheduled Aquacote Paint, Bote-Cote Epoxies and Purbond Polyurethane demonstrations. Not only that, but Dave Giddings Bote Cote and Boatcraft’s very active NSW agent, is running for the first time in Tasmania the Kids Boat Building workshop, where kids build a mob of very small boats using plywood and fast setting Bote-Cote products, let them cure overnight and row and maybe sail them around Constitution Dock! This may even extend to Franklin.

conjecture! The action is non stop and there is real village fair, let’s all get into this and you can all have a go feel to it. NOT to be missed. (Be warned! This St Ayles skiff business is addictive!)

T HE ST AYLES SKIFF CHAMPIONSHIPS (TASMANIA) 2017

These championships will be held in the town of Franklin, February 18-19 under the auspices of the Living Boat Trust, and organised by the Women On Water (WOW) Group. Almost fully booked out! Contact the committee: [email protected]

NEXT ISSUE FEATURE!

The South Australian Wooden Boat Festival, April 22 and 23, Goolwa SA

Then! A week later, and it’s Franklin’s turn. This almost extreme southern town on the banks of the mighty Huon River is also a focus of very synpathetic redevelopment, old movie theatres brought back to original glory, fantatsic local hospitality, excellent working boat sheds and more. Franklin is host again to this really outstanding event over two days that drew large numbers of paricipants from all over the world for the inaugural event in 2015, and even greater numbers of spectators. From the buzz, it seems that 2015 will be well eclipsed, with a big lump in international; teams and local and interstate boats The regatta’s racing is pretty democratic, there are many more teams than boats, so that everyone’s boats get used by everyone else. Really adds to the fun, and sometimes spirited australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 7

IN-WATER CLEANING OF HULLS YOU’D NEVER GUESS, BUT ... THE RULES HAVE CHANGED! by ROSEMARY JILDERTS

But a little bit of history first … Way back into the dim dark past, sailors have cleaned their hulls of bar nacles and other marine growth and repainted whenever and wherever they could, and whenever and wherever the hulls needed it. When John and I started cruising in the early 80’s haulout wasn’t too expensive – well within our means – and antifoul paints were reasonably priced. Annual haulout was the norm and in between times boaties would raft up against a suitable jetty and work like mad at low tide to clean and repaint the bottom between tides or they’d careen on a suitable beach or sand bar.

A

fter selling our second monohull John and I decided to build a catamaran. We were delighted that it would be easy to keep her clean and in good and safe working order by beaching her regularly. These cleanings didn’t need to be done too often back in the days when active ingredients that actually worked were allowed in the antifouls. The advent of tributyltin in the late 60’s/early 70’s was a godsend. It was cheap and it actually worked! But because of the effects of TBT on the aquaculture industry the use of tributyltin was eventually banned.

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New and more expensive antifouls began appearing on the market but John and I were never able to find one that worked for the length of time the manufacturer suggested. In fact, on more than one occasion, after spending time and money in a boatyard sanding and repainting, we have discovered within just a few weeks of launch the brand new antifoul was inactive and growth was already appearing. Although the manufacturer replaced the paint it was economically unviable to haul out again. On the last occasion we headed offshore with nonworking antifoul.

LEFT: 19th Century painting of ships careened for cleaning in the Torres Strait. ABOVE: Repairs being carried out on an old whaler near New Bedford.

So while cruising through Malaysia we bought and coated our boat with antifoul containing tributyltin and although it was sold as a six month antifoul, the hulls were still clean two years later. When we eventually decided to return to Australia we reluctantly removed it all (there was virtually no biofouling on the hulls) and replaced it with ‘acceptable’ antifoul which only lasted a few months and cost a small fortune. So, we set our minds to accepting the less effective bottom paints knowing that we’d just have to hop in the water or beach our boats and give them a good scrub more often. Then the Hand of God (meaning the maritime authorities) descended, and with a massive whack on the back that took our breath away, they stated that we could no longer clean our boats in the water.

This now created a dilemma for many. A lot of boaties cruise on a shoe-string budget and simply could not afford to be hauling out every time biofouling appeared.

Everyone understands that without some form of control the accumulation of marine growth on vessels increases drag and fuel consumption. So, we have to keep our hulls clean. In many harbours, particularly in warm tropical waters, biofouling grows rapidly so an

annual hull clean is insufficient. The only option is to regularly give the hull a scrub down in the water. But this was illegal.

The ban was the topic of conversation at barbecues, get-togethers and over sun-downers. “Why,” so many asked, “can’t we clean in-water. The barnacles came out of the water, so why can’t we put them back?” But the law, no matter how ridiculous and unrealistic it seemed, was there – and presumably there to stay. A lot of boaties were caught in the act and fined; but occasionally someone with a brain made a rational decision as the following story indicates. One Christmas we lent our dinghy to a boatie in the harbour for a few weeks. When we returned from holidays the dinghy’s bottom, which is normally clean because it’s kept on davits, was foul with silt from being in the water constantly. No barnies ... just silt ... (microfouling as I have since learned) so John decided to wipe it down on the marina dock. He was immediately reprimanded by an official, as it was “against the pollution laws”. “Now if you tell me you are looking for a crack,” he said, “that would be okay.” He was obviously a realist. Naturally, John replied, “I’m looking for a crack.” As you read on you will realise that the marina staff member had been

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kept clean so that the vessels can move at any time. But how do we do that with ineffective or at the very least, less effective, antifouls that seem to be all that’s available to the recreational boatie? Biofouling – We all know the purpose of antifouling. We know that biofouling is the ‘growth and accumulation of aquatic organisms on vessels and other movable submerged structures which affect their performance and can lead to the spread of invasive aquatic species.’ We also know that by not keeping the underwater areas clean organisms can be spread, so we have a responsibility to clean regularly particularly when moving between locations. But how do we do that legally without hauling out on a more regular basis? No matter what we did, we couldn’t be legal. Clean in-water and we were breaking the law. Allow the barnacles to accumulate on moving parts placing the boat in an unseaworthy condition and, once again, we were breaking the law. Many boaties simply continued to clean in the water and prayed not to be caught. So, most of us became law-breakers by continuing the practice. It didn’t surprise us when we realised that even departmental boats were cleaned in the water.

We agonised over the problem for years then recently, while researching another issue, John came across a piece of new legislation that doesn’t seem to have been given much publicity. I even quizzed some maritime officials and they were also unaware of it. But now, after a lot of research of current regulations, of visiting official website after official website and clicking on link after link it seems that in-water hull cleaning may actually be legal ... perhaps with some conditions applied ... but in some cases it looks as though it is even ‘recommended’.

THE EPBC ACT FROM TOP: Sokari and Research Vessel Sunbird on the beach side by side while carrying out cleaning on the hulls. Even when in-water cleaning was accepted practice, boats still needed to come out onto the hard for major cleaning and painting jobs. Until laws changed this was a common sight along the coast with yachts careened for cleaning regularly.

misinformed and John was, in fact, quite within his rights to clean off the silt. Another issue that John has complained about for years is that the bans on in-water cleaning were at odds with maritime regulations which state that vessels must be kept in a seaworthy condition. This means that props and rudders, especially, must be 10 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

In June 2013, the ‘Anti-fouling and in-water cleaning guidelines’ replaced the ‘Australian and New Zealand Environment and Conservation Council Code of Practice for Antifouling and In-water Hull Cleaning and Maintenance, 1997’. Part two of these guidelines addresses in-water cleaning and it states that vessels and moveable structures should be removed from the water prior to cleaning. However, in cases where removal is not economically or practically viable, (emphasis by author) the guidelines accept in-water cleaning as a potential management option for removing biofouling, providing that risks are appropriately managed. It does seem, however, as though regulations for in-water cleaning in Commonwealth waters could be different to those in each state’s waters. There was a link to the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999 (the EPBC Act) for more information on the state regulations but the link didn’t work so I was unable learn more. By now I was going

cross-eyed and becoming frustrated with all the false leads and broken links. While emphasising their preference for out of water cleaning and maintenance the department does now have guidelines for in-water cleaning.

ABOVE LEFT: Microfouling is the slime layer which can be easily removed by wiping. Image courtesy of DAFF ABOVE RIGHT: Macrofouling are those larger organisms that are visible to the human eye … barnacles, tubeworms, mussels etc. Image courtesy of DAFF

GUIDELINES FOR IN-WATER CLEANING

The new guidelines are intended to assist authorities to decide on the appropriateness of in-water cleaning operations in general and on a case-by-case basis. The guidelines are based on the following:

• the risks posed by biofouling management measures should be balanced with the risks of failing to manage biofouling;

• there is an operational need to manage biofouling on vessels and movable structures; • it is preferable to minimise the accumulation of biofouling on vessels and movable structures;

• and it is preferable for biofouling to be removed in the location where it was acquired before departing or moving to a new location.

THE GUIDELINES ALSO STATE:

• Keeping the in-water areas of our boats clean optimises the boat’s performance and will also minimise biosecurity risks. However, cleaning can physically damage some anti-fouling coatings, shorten the coating life and, when done in-water, can release a pulse of biocide as well as invasive aquatic pests into the surrounding environment. So, in-water cleaning should only be undertaken when removal of the biofouling won’t harm the coating and is an acceptable biosecurity or contaminant risk. • The department does, however, state that although in some circumstances in-water cleaning is recommended, vessels and movable structures should be removed from the water for cleaning and

maintenance in preference to in-water operations, where this is operationally and economically practicable. In-water cleaning shouldn’t be considered a replacement for coating maintenance and renewal at recognised shore-based maintenance facilities.

RECORD KEEPING

For recreational vessels, the preferred form of documentation is a biofouling record book and/or biofouling management plan, or original receipts or invoices stating the coating type and the volume purchased, vessel name and date of application, where the former document(s) are not held. At this point I was finding the research heavy-going so I attempted to contact the ‘relevant authority’. I was pleasantly surprised to receive a very prompt response however the content also surprised me ... but not pleasantly, “As your online profile suggests you publish regularly in boating publications, I need to determine whether you intend to publish the answer the Department provides to you ………. Your honesty in this matter would be appreciated.” My initial enquiry had been of a personal nature, however, by now I thought the readers deserved to have an answer also. I responded immediately with those facts ... and that was the last I heard from them. australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 11

RIGHT FROM TOP: A mussel inside a skin fitting could be an indication that there are more throughout the boat’s plumbing. A Current measurement instrument encrusted with zebra mussels. Once antifoul stops working it doesn’t take long for marine growth to accumulate on underwater areas. Macrofouling on the underwater areas of a boat’s hull.

I can only assume it went into the THTD (Too Hard To Do) basket.

So, I went back to the internet and a myriad websites to start untangling the mess. Just before completing the article I decided to give them a prod ... another chance to answer my queries ... explaining that their lack of response would be noted in the article and lo and behold I had a reply within one hour with their ‘answers’. The contents of the email follow : Hi Rosemary

Below is your response regarding in-water cleaning. Apologies for the delay.

The Anti-Fouling and In-Water Cleaning Guidelines are intended to encourage best practice approaches to in-water cleaning and minimise contamination and biosecurity risks associated with such activities. These guidelines are being implemented on a jurisdictional basis, as each state and the Northern Territory has different implementation arrangements within their waters due to different management frameworks. Advice on implementing the guidelines in state and territory waters should be obtained from the relevant agency within a particular jurisdiction. The Department of Agriculture is able to provide advice about the biosecurity risk of a proposed in-water cleaning activity in Commonwealth waters.

Appendix 1 of the guidelines contains a decision support tool which may assist owners and operators of vessels to determine the types of information considered by authorities in decisions on in-water cleaning. In addition, there are general recommendations about in-water cleaning in Commonwealth waters on the Department’s website at http:// www.daff.gov.au/animal-plant-health/pests-diseases-weeds/ marine-pests/anti-fouling-and-inwater-cleaning-guidelines/ general-recommendations

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The accumulation of marine growth can weigh down navigation aids.

Someone wishing to in-water clean in Commonwealth waters should first visit the Department of Environment website for information about their obligations under the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999 (the EPBC Act). If the proposed in-water clean will significantly impact on heritage values of a declared World Heritage property or National Heritage place the matter needs to be referred under the EPBC Act. The initial process is one of self-referral, where the applicant decides whether or not their activity has, will have, or is likely to have an impact. Further information is available at http://www.environment.gov.au/heritage/management/ referrals/index.html. Enquiries regarding the biosecurity risk of a potential in-water cleaning activity can be directed to the Department of Agriculture through the email address [email protected] So, there were no proper answers to my questions ... nothing to give us even a broad idea of the requirements ... nothing the layman could really understand. And in the end I was just pointed back

in the direction of the same website and the same department that I had originally contacted. So, once again, head down, bum up and I began digging through all the relevant websites, following links ... many of which were broken and took me nowhere. But in the end, I believe I came to understand the current situation.

(When reading the following, carefully consider their wording. ‘Not recommended’ is not the same as ‘banned’; ‘should’ is not the same as ‘must’. Words in bold are for emphasis by author.)

“Regular (6-12 monthly) in-water cleaning is an effective way to limit the development of biofouling and is recommended for all submerged surfaces, particularly propellers and other niche* areas on vessels and movable structures.” *(Niche = Areas on a vessel or movable structure more susceptible to biofouling accumulation due to different hydrodynamic forces, susceptibility to antifouling coating wear or damage or absence of antifouling coatings. They include, but are not limited to, waterline, sea chests, bow thrusters, propeller shafts,

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Props and rudders must be kept clean so that the vessel is in a “ready to move” condition at all times. With a layer of barnies like this performance would drop and fuel consumption would increase.

inlet gratings, jack-up legs, moon pools, bollards, braces and dry-docking support strips.) “Any in-water cleaning should be conducted in the same location where the biofouling was acquired so that cleaning may not pose a biosecurity risk as all biofouling species on the vessel would already be present in that area. However, if the biofouling was acquired from distant locations it may contain invasive species that do pose a risk.” In-water cleaning to routinely remove mature and extensive macrofouling as a substitute for earlier and/or better maintenance practices is not recommended. In-water cleaning of vessels or movable structures should ideally be carried out before departing to new destinations, not after arriving at those destinations. In-water cleaning should only be carried out on antifouling coatings that are suitable for in-water cleaning. Information can be obtained from the coating manufacturer. In-water cleaning should not be performed on vessels or movable structures that have reached or exceeded their planned in-service period. When the anti-fouling coating has reached the end of its service life the vessel or movable structure should be removed from the water and a new anti-fouling coating applied. Preparation and mixing of anti-fouling coatings must never be carried out in intertidal areas. In-water cleaning technologies should aim to, at least, capture debris greater than 50 micrometres (µm) in diameter, which will minimise release of viable adult, juvenile and larval stages of macrofouling organisms. Any cleaning debris collected must be disposed of on land and in compliance with the waste disposal requirements of the relevant authority. If suspected invasive or non-indigenous aquatic species are encountered during in-water cleaning or other vessel maintenance activities, the relevant 14 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

authority should immediately be notified and the cleaning or maintenance activity ceased.

BIOFOULING TYPE

Microfouling refers to a layer of microscopic organisms including bacteria and diatoms and the slimy substances they produce. This ‘slime layer’ can be easily removed by gently passing a finger over the surface.

Macrofouling refers to large, distinct multicellular organisms visible to the human eye, such as barnacles, tubeworms, mussels, fronds of algae and other large attached or mobile organisms. Macrofouling growths represent a greater biosecurity risk as they may contain a diverse range of organisms, and are more difficult to effectively remove and contain.

GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR INWATER CLEANING IN COMMONWEALTH WATERS

Commonwealth waters extend from the 3nm line (the limit of coastal waters) seaward to the 12nm (limit of the territorial sea.)

A slime layer (microfouling), regardless of origin, may be removed without full containment of biofouling waste, providing a gentle, non-abrasive technique is used. Macrofouling, (fouling that has progressed beyond a slime layer) acquired from beyond the Australian Economic Exclusion Zone, should not be cleaned in-water if technology is not available to minimise release of viable biological material into the water column. Locally acquired macrofouling may be cleaned inwater providing the coating is suitable for cleaning and the cleaning method does not damage the coating surface or release unsuitable amounts of

contaminant into the environment. The biofouling waste does not need to be contained.

Macrofouling acquired from another area of domestic origin may not need full containment of the waste but this must be determined by the relevant authority. Macrofouling from international locations should only be removed using cleaning methods that minimise release of all organisms or parts of organisms and anti-fouling coating debris. Exceptions could be that in-water cleaning is still banned where biosecurity controls have been implemented for invasive aquatic species management purposes.

So, I seem to have determined that in-water cleaning is acceptable, even recommended, under some circumstances.

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Since tropical cyclone Yasi cut a swathe of destruction through the Cardwell area, insurance companies, in a knee-jerk reaction, have decided to hit the majority of boats in the north. Most companies we rang refused outright to insure northern boats; one from WA wouldn’t insure boats above postcode 4600 while the few that would accept boats put such high premiums on them that it wasn’t viable. It seems that this reaction isn’t limited only to cyclone prone areas, with southern states also suffering from increased costs and denial of renewals.

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This sounds very reasonable, but hang on ... there is one new problem I can see with haulout. All boats must now have insurance to use marinas (some insist on full comprehensive while others accept third party); jetties and haul-out yards. Therein lies another problem.

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No rights can be derived from these illustrations The colours shown give an idea of the colours used.

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The way I read the legislation it is now recommended that we clean our hulls in-water on a regular basis, preferably before macrofouling occurs, certainly in Commonwealth waters. However, we SHOULD haul out once the antifouling is no longer working to clean, maintain and repaint. Boaties should consult with their state authorities on their individual recommendations.

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So, where do we go from there? Insurance companies are denying us the right to insure, either by an outright refusal or by making premiums so outrageously high that people simply can’t afford it. If we can’t get insurance, we can’t haulout to do the maintenance and to repaint.

So, regardless of how many restrictions the ‘relevant authority’ puts on us regarding in-water cleaning, many boaties who can’t get insurance will have no alternative but to clean in-water no matter what. At least there has been a relaxation of the in-water cleaning rules for the beleaguered boatie rather than the previous outright ban.

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BARRIE’SREVIEWS (The personal opinions of a very ancient mariner. He is 80; most reviews were collected from experience, over many years, and some new designs were reviewed from a designer’s viewpoint.) I will rate designs out of five. If you feel I am wrong let’s talk about it. I don’t know everything; I am not too sure what your dreams and ambitions are, regarding that special boat just for you and your family. However I will do my best to only recommend special designs that you can build and will be great for the average family. I myself am a timid sailor so will always judge a design’s safety rating ahead of all. This means of course that the boat must behave well in a blow and always bring you home safely.

EPISODE ONE

SAYLON 20 CATAMARAN A BRAND NEW DESIGN

M

y friend Richard Woods has been emailing me from the Bahamas, anchored in a pleasant harbour on his powercat Skoota 28 (another of his designs) He and his wife are running their business via mobile phone “while waiting for that blasted wind and rain to go away!”

We got to talking about our ideas for a light towable catamaran to sail and potter in and around the bays and rivers and lakes, which we certainly have many of in Australia, and sometimes we may need to overnight with a young family, and motor with a small outboard when the winds are light.

Richard has so read my mind with the Saylon 20, it’s a boat I want to build yesterday, and I guess many of you will find this design attractive too. 16 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

A few things are different and rather special with this new design. The hull/sail area formula is especially for the reasonably calm inland sailing areas of USA and Australia. Richard normally designs cats for the rugged North Atlantic oceans, which would soon sort out such a narrow hull spacing as we have in the Saylon 20. (6.1m x 2.5m). However, if we keep in mind that the designer’s brief was for family sailing in reasonably protected waters, and if we sail it accordingly, there should be no problems. Richard is really a bit too special with the ability of this craft to handle rough winds. I know of at least six local designs that are not quite as sturdy or seaworthy as the Saylon 20,, and yet many have been built and I would not hesitate to build a Saylon 20, and

LOA 6.1m / 20ft LWL 5.9m / 19ft 4in BOA 2.5m / 8ft 2in SAIL AREA Mainsail 13sqm / 140sqft Jib 7sqm / 75sqft Mast Height 8.8m / 28ft 9in Empty Weight 680kgs / 1500lbs Displacement to WL 920kgs / 2030lbs Draft 285mm 11in (1000mm 3ft 3in boards down) 2 single berths in hulls / 1 double in aft cabin Headroom Moored: 1.85m / 6ft Sailing: 1.35m / 4ft 6in

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So, what did Richard do?

When I weigh up the building method (epoxy/ply/ fibreglass composite) and the light weight, meaning a small car can tow this pretty boat easily, and the use of a second hand rig. I am sold! I will be starting my SAYLON 20 end of this year ... you can help me if you live in Brisbane. As I mentioned earlier I will rate my reviews out of five, five being absolutely fabulous. My rating for the Saylon 20, is 4.5

This obviously resulted in a 1.8m cockpit, (centre cockpit) and keeps all weight out of the back end when sailing in daylight hours.

Footnote: I don’t mind an argument. If I can answer questions or cause some dissent among sailors, and as a result cause a fruitful discussion, I would be happy, ‘cos my work here is done!

take it out in 25kts without a worry ... for a few unique reasons: 1. Most families tend to group down the rear of a forward cabin-type catamaran’s cockpit, causing the transom to bog down in the water.

2. Most 20’ cats group all the family in the forward cabin, denying Mum and Dad any privacy at all, so there goes the romance! Well, he gave the parents an aft double cabin of their own, so that gets rid of the privacy angst.

Standing the mast up in the cockpit, as it is based on the cockpit floor, is so easy and safe. All lines are led to the cockpit so scrambling over the fore cabin roof is not needed. This fore cabin comprises entry to the two quarter berths in the hulls, and also houses the dinette and stove and sink. A toilet is hidden in a hull near the aft double cabin.

Now, this is a catamaran, so it is roughly a rectangular shape , and therefore has much more internal space than a 20’ monohull. This space. internally, is huge!

In episode 2 ... I will review a small and inexpensive plywood sailing/racing boat for kids 8-16. See you on the water, Barrie p 07 3172 9642 m 0478 280 619 e [email protected]

CONSTRUCTION

Built entirely from light ply with an exaggerated chine midway up the sides of a dory style flat bottomed hull, as shown above. The chine beam is wider in this important area and greatly increases the internal volume where it matters most. This craft is, like all Woods Designs, so very easy to build. Light plywood hulls, cockpit and cabins makes it all so simple.

Also, and I believe this is important to most, is it takes the same time to rig and launch as a monohull at the ramp, possibly even a bit less, as it is such a stable platform to rig on. Launch anywhere from a flatbed trailer. No worries at all!

CONCLUSION

Richard Woods calls this a motor-sailer, and I would agree.

This is a cruising boat for sheltered waters but rigged as an up-market cruiser.

The centre cockpit design makes for a dry boat. There are no trampolines as the cockpit is all ply. Any offthe-beach rig, say Hobie 16, will be fine. As this is a flat panel ply design I would recommend this boat as a project for a first time builder.

Saves money because it last & lasts & lasts ...

COP-R-BOTE extra long life antifouling • Copper metal blended in epoxy resin • No repainting for many, many years • Environmentally friendly • Proven by sailors around Australia • Red, Blue, Green and Black • Ideal for multihulls and trailer boats • Reduces osmosis on polyester hulls • Australian formulated for Australian conditions

BoatCraft Pacific 46 Chetwynd St, Loganholme, Qld 4129

[email protected] p: 07 3806 1944

www.boatcraft.com.au AGENTS AROUND AUSTRALIA australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 19

TIPS FOR CLEANING VALUABLE MARINE ELECTRONICS

W

hether it’s a portable fish finder, colour TFT stereo display or a large multi-function display, touchscreens with rubberized buttons are commonplace on boats. Over time, salt spray, grime and fingerprints reduce their appearance, and may lead to premature deterioration. Shurhold, the leader in marine cleaning tools and products, offers a Clean and Simple Tip for detailing these valuable electronics.

The first step is to power-down the device(s). This will avoid unintentionally changing a setting. It’s also a good time to check the manufacturer’s manual to see if they recommend any specific cleaning or maintenance routines.

If the device is all-weather rated, a light misting of water will remove dirt and salt residue; never use a hose with full pressure. Use a synthetic PVA chamois to wipe the surface clean and remove the contaminates. For large dashes, work from the top down and in sections. The key is to dry the device quickly before water spots form. Next, lightly spray the area with a high-quality, one-step detailing product like Shurhold’s Serious Shine. This quick

spray product will clean, polish and protect almost any surface, without leaving an oily, artificial residue. It contains UV inhibitors and anti-fingerprint/anti-static properties. It’s perfect for touchscreens, glass, frames, buttons, chrome, gauges, fiberglass and even Isinglass.

Lightly buff the surface with Serious Shine and a clean microfiber towel. Then, flip the towel to its dry side and polish everything to a high sheen. Screens will be clean and the surrounding accents gleaming like new. A video of the entire process is available at bit.ly/2dOiCRs. For areas of built-up grime, Shurhold’s Serious Marine Cleaner (SMC) is ideal. It’s a safe, yet strong, multi-surface cleaner that will tackle vinyl seating, canvas, exhaust stains and even the bilge. Dedicated to educating boat owners, Shurhold provides key tips for boat value preservation at www.shurhold.com. Inventor of the One Handle Does It All system, Shurhold manufactures specialty care items and accessories to clean, polish and detail. www.shurhold.com

ARE YOU? making oars refitting varnishing designing making a kayak updating electronics sailing cruising selecting timber sanding fairing painting trailering buying selling sewing sails repairing reviving marinising an engine building a kit customising launching building a rudder using epoxy making a mast or simply dreaming about messing about in boats ... building a boat racing

If so, we’d like to hear from you!

Australian Amateur Boatbuilder & KitBoats magazine is interested in hearing the story of your project, the reasons why, how you got started and what was your motivation. Don’t worry if you can’t write a masterpiece and naturally, you’ll have to include some clear photos, showing the various stages of construction from the beginning to where it all ended!

PO Box 560, Varsity Lakes, Queensland 4227 P: 07 5593 8187 F: 07 5593 8973 E: [email protected]

20 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

SCRUFFIE WORLD NEWS

The author guns it... australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 21

Cruising at 6kts with the equivalent of nine passengers on board... by DEREK ELLARD

There are times when those who design and build things – be they cars, bikes, boats, musical instruments, or even lawnmowers – rejoice to know that they are in good hands. For us it is always a source of great pleasure to hear about the voyages our owners undertake, especially those who are demonstrably competent sailors. Such is the case with our youngest builder Kael Kloosterman who has recently built his Shimmy 12 as a school project. His video – you can see it on our website – will lay to rest any doubts you may harbour about the future of boatbuilding and sailing. The footage is simple, yet effective, it’s just one teenager in a small boat but it speaks volumes about sailing as we imagine it should be – effortlessly enjoyable. Well done Kael and thank you for the inspiration.

22 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

S

ome 20 years ago I took a family out for a test sail in a brisk wind and to my surprise the father gave the helm to his youngest – a girl of around 10 or 11. “She’s the best” he said. And she was. A girl born to sail, she tacked, gybed, thrashed to windward and flew offwind with unshakable confidence and enviable poise. I hope she’s still sailing as dad didn’t buy the boat.

WEBSITE WONDERS! We’ve got a new website! Yes, the talented Mrs Scruffie has redesigned the whole lot, discarding plenty of waffle and introducing a cleaner, smarter, quicker site that’s stylish and super easy to navigate. Yes, I’m biased, but credit where credit is due, yes it’s still work in progress but long overdue. Click on and enjoy www.scruffie.com

NEW MODEL Well nearly, in actual fact we’re cheating a bit with the new Sienna 17. The Sienna 19, the sailing school’s favourite, was always designed with optional keels to allow either sailing or power versions and we always had in mind a transom stern version as a replacement for the venerable Scruffie 16. Not that the 16 will ever

go out of production, but the 17 is to be a smaller simpler sloop rigged version of the 19. Cheaper too.

But then we were approached to do an inboard diesel or electric launch so the 17 began to take shape in earnest. It seems a simple matter to build a transom shaped baffle to fit neatly in the hull mould, cutting off the counter stern and a couple of feet in overall length. Not so fast, there’s more to it than that. Firstly we build a new transom plug to fit precisely into the mould – the right amount of rake, the correct deck camber, and all perfectly fair and polished. From that we fabricate a snug fitting removable mould which can be securely clamped in place without damaging the counter. Then it’s all wax, gelcoat, cloth, core-mat, and chopped strand. Followed by “boom! tish!” and out pops a 17 footer. Easy. Just as we were about to start along comes not just one but two orders for new full length Sienna 19’s, sigh ... In doing the new 19’s we’re lowering the cockpit coaming a touch but otherwise if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

RIG DECISION

I agonise over rigs, there’s so much going for the loose footed main but the gaff really is superior in some ways. When tendering for a big contract a australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 23

Some of the builder’s timber indulgences.

while back we were, however, shocked to read that crash helmets were to be mandatory for sea cadets in a country we decline to name. So it’s back to the boomless main then ... oh to hell with that, you’re not a proper sailor unless you’ve been whacked with an errant boom, the new Sienna 17 will therefore sport a gaff sloop ring but crash helmets will be optional.

front. Result? Very expensive repairs all round but only cosmetic damage to the Sienna. Cue relieved mopping of brow and grateful entreaties to the gods of luggers. And the moral is? Keep your distance, maintain your trailer and its brakes and buy a Sienna 19 just in case.

MORE SIENNA NEWS

AND FINALLY

Just got one of Blue Peter’s boats back for refurbishing. The sailing school should properly be referred to as ‘the sailing school of hard knocks’. For in her short life, she’s had a few. One of them was when she wasn’t even afloat but innocently strapped on to the trailer. A three vehicle end to end shunt resulted in extensive damage to the three cars and to the trailer. Sufficient force was generated to bend the steel winch stalk, the bolts and base plate as the boat tried to overtake the car in

FOLLOWED BY “BOOM! TISH!” AND OUT POPS A 17 FOOTER 24 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Our second Secret 33 electric launch was farewelled recently. The boat was craned on to the lowloader bound for Perth to join her sister ship. On the successful sea trials we managed to get some excellent photos and good video footage. Here are some of photographer Ray Cash’s best. That’s all for now – it’s Sienna time

Our new Sienna 17 launch.

STRAYDOG BOATWORKS the modern classics STUDY PLANS

IAIN O PLANS $30 $35 $40 $45 $45 $55

Mk2 NIS 18 study packet Mk2 NIS 23 study packet Mk2 NIS 26 study packet Mk2 NIS 29 study packet Mk2 NIS 31 study packet Mk2 NIS 43 study packet

Study plans pack now includes redrawn large poster size drawing incorporating sail plans, general arrangements kit details, spec sheet AND DVD of pix, articles and build suggestions including Mk2 range.

BOOKS

VAKA! rare copies. (stunning saga of Polynesian ship building and navigation techniques, and the settling of Aotearoa (NZ). 300 pages. Illustrated. Inc pack and post Australia $56. UPDATED IAIN OUGHTRED CLINKER PLYWOOD BOAT BUILDING MANUAL $47.90 incl pack and post. Updated IAIN OUGHTRED CATALOGUE (10/9/11) $28 incl pack and post. Manual and Catalogue together $70 incl pack and post. DVD Iain Oughtred photographs. $20 Google: wwwstaylesskiff.net

QUALITY T-SHIRTS

Cotton, navy with dramatic bone logo. Please state number and size. $35ea S

M

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XXL

Pay by PayPal on site www.straydogboatworks.com

BOAT GEAR

CARBON MASTS AND BOOMS POA NIS TABERNACLE SETS POA JAPANESE BACK SAWS One of the most useful tools in the boat building workshop. Amazingly fast cutting, accurate, easy to use. In store now. Makes real carpenters out of us woodbutchers. Great Christmas present! $69 incl p/p SPARE BLADES $45 incl p/p CAT EYE NAV LIGHTS Like Charlie Fisher’s. Converted by us to LED. Inc pack and post $95 Flush white stern light, like Charlie Fisher’s. $39 incl pack and post. Full range of bronze screws, fastenings and fittings, Go to website for details

PRECUT KITS

Iain has had first price rise in 30 years Oar Plan Pram Dinghies Feather Humble Bee Mouse Granny Canoes Stickleback Wee Rob Macgregor Canadian Canoes Beaver Traditional Dinghies Auklet Auk Puffin Guillemot Tammie Norrie Penny Fee Sailing (Planing Potential) Dinghies Shearwater Gannet Fulmar Rowing Skiffs Acorn Skiff Acorn 15 Mole (Thames type) Badger (Thames type) Wemyss (Open water capable) Outrigger Skiff Snipefish Dory Skiffs Skerrie Skiff 15 Skerrie Skiff 17 Dories Spike Amberjack John Dory Norwegian Faerings Elf Elfyn Double Ended Beach Boats Little Tern Tirrik Sooty Tern (Arctic Tern stretched supp) Arctic Tern Ness Yawl Caledonia Yawl Cruising Yachts Wee Seal Mk2 Kotic Addendum for Wee Seal Eun Mara Grey Seal Ron Mohr Addendum for Grey Seal 26 Haiku Includes pack and post within Australia.

$49 $151 $166 $143 $158 $143 $174 $212 $148 $158 $173 $203 $229 $242 $273 $217 $250 $281 $226 $240 $203 $227 $242 $158 $179 $196 $166 $181 $219 $257 $280 $234 $280 POA $319 $309 $357 $607 POA $609 $738 POA $874

All pricing under review due to recent currency fluctuations. Contact us prior to purchase

Includes two t-shirts. Specify your size when ordering. Acorn 15 $1880 Acorn 17 $1993 Acorn Skiff 11’8” $1643 Arctic Tern $3970 Auk $1235 Auklet POA Badger $2184 Beaver $1470 Caledonian Yawl $4497 Elf $2051 Elfyn $2457 Eun Mara $5255 Feather $1167 Fulmar $4499 Gannet $3600 Granny $1518 Guillemot 11’6” $1595 Guillemot 12’6” $1670 Humble Bee $1641 Kotik 6.58 (scaled up Wee Seal) $5499 Little Tern POA MacGregor $1157 Mole $1692 Mouse POA Ness Yawl $3577 Penny Fee 16 $3992 Puffin $1661 Shearwater $2424 Stickleback $1100 St Ayles Skiff $4650 (5m Open Water One Design Class Skiff) Tammie Norrie 13’6” $1998 Tammie Norrie 15 $2360 Tammie Norrie 16 $2472 Tirrik $2766 Wee Rob $1031 Wemyss Skiff $2660 St Ayles Skiff Kit Molds, MDF set up components and plank clamps $4650 Still required all solid and lamination timber inc build frame material, Bote Cote epoxy sticking and coating products, Aquacote Paints and stainless hardware State capital cities insured freight $390 One kit, incl all solid and lamination timber inc build frame material, Bote Cote Epoxy sticking and coating products, Aquacote Paints and stainless hardware $7414.50 State capital cities insured freight $390 Two kits, with timber, Bote Cote products, Aquacote paints, for consecutive (IE Re use build jig) construction $13,125 State capital cities insured freight $390 Grey Seal Hull and Bulkheads (26’ Ron Mohr version) POA coming soon Wee Seal Hull and Bulkheads Very high quality Lloyds Register Okoume plywood, reliable, fast turnaround times. Sold timber and Bote Cote epoxy, rigging packs available for all kits. PLEASE NOTE : Stray Dog Boat Works is the only legitimate supplier of Iain Oughtred kits, or part kits in Australia and NZ. Any other person or entity offering or negotiating for sale or knowingly receiving kits or part kits in Australia or NZ is in breach of Iain’s and Alec’s copyright, and will be pursued, on behalf of Iain and Jordan Boat Works for that breach.

w w w. s t r a y d o g b o a t w o r k s . c o m NAME .................................................................................................................................................................................. ADDRESS ........................................................................................................................................................................... Phone: (W) ................................................................................. (H) ................................................................................. Enclosed is my cheque/money order paid to: StrayDog BoatWorks - PO Box 843 Mt Barker, SA 5251 m: 0428 817 464 p: 08 8391 3705 w: www.straydogboatworks.com e: [email protected] or debit my VISA/MASTERCARD for $

/ and/kitboats 25 australasianExpiry amateurDate boatbuilder

TORTURING PLYWOOD INTO BOAT SHAPES

The Paper Jet bottom panel has nearly 90° of twist over its length, with most of the twist in the bow. Starting from the bow and working toward the stern, the twist can be pulled in much more easily than starting from the stern.

by DUDLEY DIX

Tortured plywood was originally a description of how Tor nado catamarans were built by ‘torturing’ the thin plywood skins into shapes that were previously thought impossible for plywood. It was a very innovative way to build a beautiful round-bilge boat from sheet material. Some argue that there is no such thing as ‘tortured plywood’ because plywood cannot be bent into compound shapes no matter what method is used. That is their theory but science has proven over and over again that theories are there to be broken. 26 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

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lywood is a great engineering material. Man has taken nature’s wonder engineering material, wood, and improved on the structural characteristics for use in large sheets. In its natural form you can’t cut wood into 1/4” (6mm) thickness and expect it to remain stable and strong in sizes more than a few inches in width when measured across the grain. It will split, it will twist and it will warp out of the nice flat form that you originally cut. It will be strong along the grain but relatively weak across the grain, which must be taken into account in any structural application. When that same wood species is cut into thin veneers and they are glued together with the grain direction of adjacent layers oriented at 90° to each other, each layer strengthens those on each side of it in its weakest direction. The resulting material loses its linear strength characteristic and strength becomes relatively similar in all directions. The material also becomes much more stable, much less likely to twist, warp and crack. This brings great benefits for designers using this man-made material but it also introduces limitations that the designer or builder must work around. In short, the benefit of plywood is that it is flat and the drawback of plywood is also that it is flat. Of course the wood species, the quality and number of veneers and the quality of the glue and manufacture all affect the strength and stiffness of the laminated sheet. As a simple rule of thumb, the more veneers that it has, the stiffer and more stable the sheet will be, when comparing sheets of the same wood specie. When comparing sheets of different species, the denser (heavier) specie will likely be the stronger one. Ever since plywood was first invented, man has been figuring ways to distort it into shapes other than the flat sheets in which it is formed. There are various ways to do this and understanding the nature of the material helps to figure the best way to deform it to suit our needs.

1. Wood can be stretched, within limits. When we bend it, the outer surface of the bend stretches and the inner surface of the bend is compressed. The fibres in the middle are on the neutral axis and are neither stretched nor compressed. The fact that it can be stretched means that it can be deformed in ways that are not necessarily conical or cylindrical in nature, the principles of developable surfaces normally used when designing curved surfaces for sheet materials. It can be somewhat tortured into shapes that mathematics says can’t be done. But, push it too far and it will fracture, proving that the mathematics may have been right after all. I regularly design panels that my surface modelling programs tell me can’t be skinned with sheet materials but knowledge of the materials that will be used allow me to bend the rules a bit. 2. Wood can be softened and made more pliable if it is wet, especially if it is also heated at the same time. This is the principle used when making steam-bent frames in traditional boatbuilding, softening the wood strip in a steam box. It doesn’t have to be a wood specie that is naturally flexible; it is done with oak and other strong timbers. A stiff piece of wood becomes quite soft and malleable when hot and wet, so it can be bent to shape and will hold that shape when it dries and cools. This can also be done with plywood but how do you do it with a big piece that won’t fit into a steam box? I have made plywood sheets more flexible by laying them on wet grass, spraying water over the sheets then covering with black plastic and leaving in the sun for a few hours. Others have had similar success using a steam wallpaper stripper on the outside surface while gradually pulling the sheet in with clamps and other mechanical tools. If you have a sheet clamped in place and need to coax more bend into it but don’t have a wallpaper stripper, spray water onto both sides of the sheet then cover with black plastic to absorb heat or use a heat gun to warm it. Even without heat, you can

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 27

The completed Paper Jet hull. This photo shows clearly how much twist there is in the bottom panel, from almost vertical in the bow to almost horizontal at the transom. Most of this twist is in the forward 1/3 of the length, where the panel is fairly narrow. The plywood naturally bulges outward over that part of the twist, to conform to developable surface rules. Temporary screws pulled it in against a stringer for gluing, to form a finer bow for better wave penetration

wet the sheet, keep it wet overnight with hessian bags or similar, then find that it is easier to bend in the morning.

3. Wood can be bent by making saw-cuts (kerfs) across the piece on the inside of the curve. This reduces the compression loads on the inner surface of the curve and effectively moves the neutral axis locally to the mid-point of the thickness that is left after the kerf is cut. If the kerf is half-way through the wood then the bend characteristics become more like a piece of half the thickness than one of the full thickness. The more kerfs that are cut the more that the piece is softened and the smoother the curve that results because the soft spot at each kerf will show on the outside of the curve if the kerfs are too far apart. This works with plywood also but must be judiciously done. The

28 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

kerfs shouldn’t be cut deeper than half-way through the plywood, or the structure of the plywood will be destroyed. If you cut them so deep that only the surface veneer remains, you will almost certainly fracture that surface veneer along the kerf line. The kerfs should also not be excessively wide because they will have to be filled with epoxy to regain the lost strength after the panel is glued in place. The width of a circular saw blade or narrow router bit, so about 3mm, is a good kerf width. It gives enough width to allow the sheet to bend without the edges of the cuts closing so much that they can’t be filled.

4. It is easier to deform short sheets a small amount than long sheets a large amount. If you have a panel that is 20ft long and has considerable twist to it, it will be difficult to pull the twist into that long panel if it is all in one piece. It will be easier to get

This is a forward bottom panel from the Cape Cutter 19. It has been clamped in place and allowed time to rest and distort to the shape of the hull. You can see how it has retained most of the twist and is ready to be glued to the hull.

This is the same panel, held in tight with clamps, Spanish windlass and lengths of timber, with wedges under the timbers to push it against the stringers. Dampened and left like this for a day or two will convince the plywood that it needs to comply with what you want.

that twist if the panel is fitted in three 8ft lengths that are glued to each other on the hull framing. It will be even easier if fitted in six 4ft lengths but that is only required if the twist is extreme. As example, for the Cape Cutter 19 or Cape Henry 21, with lots of twist in the bow and not much twist aft, the panel would be best fitted as 4ft lengths in the bow, changing to 8ft lengths further aft. What is happening is that when the plywood is

being twisted it tries to keep one diagonal of the sheet as a straight line, to keep to the conical or cylindrical curvature of a developable shape. If the diagonal is 20ft long there are large stresses imposed in overcoming that natural tendency of the sheet. If the diagonal is only 4ft or 5ft long the stresses are considerably reduced so the sheet complies more easily to the shape that you want.

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 29

the easy end. Also, don’t just dive in and start gluing the panel in place before you have tested it for proper fit. That needs you to clamp it against the framing at the twisted end first and gradually pull it in and adjust the position as needed until it fits properly. Then leave it there for a few days, wetting/ heating occasionally so that it can relax into the shape that you need. 9. Plywood that is twisted diagonally will bulge outward, due to the conical/cylindrical forms adopted by sheet materials. This extra hull volume may be desirable for some boats, like planing powerboats. For other boat types that extra volume may not be desirable, for performance reasons. Running a stringer or two through the bulkheads/ frames will add strength and rigidity to the panel and will also allow the builder to pull the panel inward against the frames with screws, to glue it to the stringer/s. This makes a finer bow, with smaller bow wave, improved wave penetration and greater speed. If you are building a boat that has a skin panel that has a large amount of twist that is mostly concentrated in one area then you are almost certain to need one or more of these methods to get the plywood to conform to the hull shape. You can combine various methods from the list, to supercharge the process. Softening with water/heat or steam, combined with kerfs and fitting narrow sheets will allow plywood to take on considerable twist. Once you have managed to pull that panel and its partner on the other side of the boat to the form that you need and they will hold most of the twist when released, then it is time to glue them into place. Don’t consider getting one side done and glued in place before starting to twist the other side, you will seriously limit your options for clamping any edges where the two panels meet. You will also load the framework on one side and possibly pull it out of alignment so that the completed boat is asymmetrical. It is best to prepare the one side then set it aside while you prepare the other side, then glue both on in parallel. These processes take time but it is better to take your time than to rush it, then have to deep-six the panel.

DON’T CONSIDER GETTING ONE SIDE DONE AND GLUED IN PLACE BEFORE STARTING TO TWIST THE OTHER SIDE, YOU WILL SERIOUSLY LIMIT YOUR OPTIONS FOR CLAMPING ANY EDGES WHERE THE TWO PANELS MEET 5. You can’t easily deform a sheet so that one edge has convex curvature (curved outward) and the opposite edge has concave curvature (curved inward). The stresses in the sheet will likely damage it. The builder of the first Didi Mini to be skinned emailed me to say that he had found it impossible to skin the side panel forward of the mast; the sheet simply could not be forced into the required shape, even though the sections through the panel are straight lines. It has convex curvature at the deck to add reserve buoyancy and concave curvature at the bottom in the form of a hollow bow waterline, to improve wave penetration and increase speed. I told him to cut the sheet vertically so that it was two sheets 4ft long instead of one sheet 8ft long. He emailed back that the problem disappeared and he could easily skin that area. 6. Narrow panels are easier to twist than wide ones. If you have a long and narrow panel that is twisted and another that is the same length and twist but 5x the width, the narrow one can possibly be fitted in one length but the wide one will need to be broken down into shorter lengths to make it easier to fit. My radius chine designs generally have considerable twist in the bottom panel toward the bow. There is no problem twisting this panel because it is narrow in that area.

7. Plywood will take on a set if it is distorted and held in the distorted shape for a few hours. If it won’t pull all the way into the shape that you need, don’t force it too far, you will break it. Pull it in with clamps, levers and Spanish windlass as far as it will go, then leave it. If you were to unclamp it a day later, you would find that it doesn’t want to lie flat because it will have taken on a considerable amount of the bend due to stretching/compressing of the wood. Instead, go back two or three times in 24 hours and pull it in some more. Eventually you should be able to pull it all the way to where you want it.

8. If you do have a long panel that you want to skin in one large piece for some reason, don’t start by gluing the easy end first then working toward the twisted end. That will almost guarantee that you will use some choice words along the way and have to use a lot of brute force to pull in that difficult end. Instead, glue the twisted end first then gradually pull in the twist by working along the panel toward 30 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

South African born yacht designer Dudley Dix is a graduate of Westlawn School of Yacht Design. He has a wide range of designs, built by professional and amateur builders in 90 countries. The Dudley Dix Yacht Design office is in Virginia Beach, USA, with website at http://dixdesign.com

THINGSHAPPEN by RICHARD SMITH

A fellow asked me to change his inboard powered cabin boat to outboard power. Nil problem or so I thought, however the decision to take this job on just about caused my early demise.

T

he boat, it turned out, was a big fat 25ft planing hull, really solid and heavy on a tandem trailer with no brakes. It was kept at Port Waikato south of Auckland. Well, there are a few fairly steep hills between where the boat was and where I was going to do the work. The bloke towed this rig around with a Rover 3000 car which in itself was a big heavy unit. We set off okay with me in the passenger seat and all was well going up one of the steep hills until we started going down the other side when the boat

and trailer started pushing the car faster and faster. I had a sideways glance at the driver that revealed he had gone as white as a ghost and was only just maintaining control.

I closed my eyes so I don’t know how he managed to get us on to the flat road again, only me and the wife know how scared I had gotten but when I opened my eyes again the big boy beside me was a sweaty blubbering mess, chain smoking all the way to my place. I took the inboard out, filled and reinforced the drive shaft hole in the hull, built a self-draining outboard well for his new 150hp Mercury and then followed him back to help sea trial the boat / new motor combo which went like a burnt boot (good). On reflection I should have charged him danger money but as I said things happen.

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australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 31

TANGALOOMA’S

WHALERS

by DAVID JONES, QUEENSLAND MARITIME MUSEUM

Tangalooma is well known today for its natural beauty, its comfortable resort and sheltered anchorage behind the wrecks. It is also remembered as the site of Queensland’s one and only whaling station.

32 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

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hilst whaling had been conducted in Australia since the early days of European settlement, it was not until the 1950’s that whaling began in Queensland. In the aftermath of the war, unprecedented demand for whale oil prompted the Commonwealth Government to encourage whaling in Australia. The industry would be of immense national importance in improving the country’s balance of overseas trade, and it was an enterprise widely supported by the public at that time. The major product from whale oil was margarine, sold to the UK and Europe; while meat-meal and

LEFT: The three Kos sisters moored together in 1952. Image Qld Maritime Museum collection ABOVE: Approaching Tangalooma whaling station. Image Campbell collection via Qld Maritime Museum

Work on building the whaling station was completed in seven months. Centrepiece was the factory building consisting of a concrete flensing deck, of 1,000sqm area with a log ramp leading in two stages running down into the sea to land the whales. Cookers to extract the whale oil and machinery to process the intestines and bones into meal were located under the flensing deck. Storage tanks, a steam power station, repair workshops, jetty and accommodation buildings were also built.

bonemeal would be sold on the domestic market. Whale meat was also sold as pet food in the UK and USA. Tangalooma was a prime location for a whaling station, lying within easy reach of the Humpback Whales’ winter migration route off Cape Moreton. Whale Products Pty Ltd leased land at Tangalooma and began building their whaling station late in 1951. The company had the expert advice of Captain Melsom, a veteran Norwegian whaler with 40 years’ experience, and he was appointed one of their directors.

Three whale chasers were purchased in Norway to operate out of Tangalooma: Kos I, Kos II and Kos VII. They were typical of the many whale chasers built between the wars – around 250 tons gross, 38m long with a harpoon gun over their bows, and low freeboard for handling captured whales alongside. Each of the Kos boats had a colourful history of 10 Antarctic seasons in the 1930’s before being taken up by Great Britain as naval auxiliaries during the war. Each of the chasers brought with them an expert Norwegian whaling skipper and a seasoned crew.

Operations commenced on Friday, June 6, 1952 with Kos VII catching two large whales off Cape Moreton, both harpooned by Captain Melsom himself. Two days later all three chasers were operating together, catching eight 12m whales between them. Tangalooma whaling station was in business. Hunting whales was an art rather than a science, depending heavily on the judgement and skill of the chaser’s captain. Surfacing whales would be sighted first by a lookout high on the mast. The captain then moved down a catwalk from the bridge to the

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 33

LEFT: Kos VII brings in Tangalooma’s first catch, June 6, 1952. Image Courier Mail, Jones collection BELOW LEFT: Kos II approaching Tangalooma. Image Campbell collection via Qld Maritime Museum

excitement early in 1954 when Kos II sighted and caught a Blue Whale. Though the Blue Whale is the largest animal on earth, growing up to 30m in length, this one was undersized, measuring only 20.4m, and the company had to pay the value of its produce in a fine. In 1957 Kos VII was sold to Cheynes Beach Whaling at Albany in Western Australia and a replacement chaser, Firern, was purchased. She was renamed Tangalooma, and being larger and more powerful than the Kos boats, she was used to collect whales caught by the other chasers, and tow them to Tangalooma. This allowed the Kos twins to continue hunting with minimal disruption.

harpoon gun in the bow and made the shot using his experience to secure a quick and efficient kill. The captured whale was then secured and towed to Tangalooma to be landed and processed.

Control over whaling in Australia was exercised by the Commonwealth Government which limited the season’s duration and the numbers allowed to be caught in the year. For its first season from May 1 to October 31, 1952, Tangalooma was allocated a quota of 500 whales, later increased to 600. Each whale must be at least 10.7m in length and mothers with calves were protected. A government inspector examined each whale caught and the CSIRO carried out continuous research on the whale population. By October 7 Whale Products had filled its quota. Whales had averaged over 12m in length with the largest caught measuring 15.8m, establishing an Australian record. Around 5,000 tons of whale oil was produced with world prices at a high level. Operations then settled into a regular pattern each year. From 1955 to 1960 quotas were filled in little more than two months, and size and yield of whales processed was consistently high. There was some 34 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

After nine good seasons when whales were plentiful, the 1961 season came as a rude shock. Despite the use of a light aircraft to widen the search, whales were hard to find. By the time the season closed at the end of October, their quota of 660 had not been filled. Only 591 whales had been caught as the chasers searched as far afield as Maroochydore and Southport. Skippers could no longer be selective and the average size of whales caught along with their yield fell considerably.

For the next season two modern chasers were bought fitted with the latest navigation equipment. Thorbryn and Thorgrim were also veterans of many seasons in the Southern Ocean. They were built during 1947 and at 440 tons were larger and faster than their predecessors. Kos I and II, now 34 years old, were retired. The company hoped the new whalers would turn their fortunes around and changed the names of their active fleet. Tangalooma became Looma 1, while the new additions became Looma 2 and Looma 3 respectively. Tangalooma opened its 1962 season on June 18, but results were even worse than the previous year. After seven weeks at the height of the northern migration, only 68 whales had been taken. This was a quarter of the number caught in the same period of the previous year and prospects looked dire. Whaling operations were stopped on August 5, 1962 and Tangalooma’s whaling station was closed down.

ABOVE: Tangalooma whaling station from the nearby sand hills. Image Mervyn Jones, Jones collection

Why had the Humpback population collapsed so suddenly in just two years? Australian whaling had been controlled by the government to ensure whale stocks were preserved. In the broad southern oceans the International Whaling Commission laid down similar rules to protect whale populations. But in the distant, southern seas these rules had been flouted and the slaughter of whales had become indiscriminate and excessive.

This was confirmed in a tangible way when two scientific tags shot into migrating Humpbacks by the CSIRO were returned to Tangalooma in 1962 from whales killed in the south. But no Humpback Whales were reported as having been caught there in that season and the tags were claimed to have come from other species. Once the Tangalooma whaling station closed the company’s assets were sold. Buildings and property

BUILD-A-BOAT NOT JUST BOAT PLAN BUT ALSO ART PO Box 674 Freshwater 2090 or call Matt on 02 9938 4933

www.buildaboatplans.com.au

on Moreton Island were sold to a syndicate which converted Tangalooma into a tourist resort. The ramp was demolished and equipment dismantled while dining rooms, lounges and recreation facilities were built and accommodation improved. The new resort opened in December 1963.

The whale chasers were also sold, Looma 2 and Looma 3 to Cheynes Beach Whaling in Western Australia where they served for another 15 years hunting Sperm Whales. Looma 1 operated for a short time in New Zealand before being scrapped in 1966. Kos I and Kos II lingered on the Brisbane River seeing little use before being scuttled as part of Curtin artificial reef off Moreton Island in the early 1970’s. Happily the Humpback Whales have returned. Instead of whalers with harpoons it is tourists with cameras who flock to see them and the whales seem to enjoy the attention. Long may this continue.

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#18 catalo gue $20 poste d 500+ desig ns

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 35

TBK NEWS by BARRIE ARMSTRONG

LAUNCH OF THE

REDFIN 22 MK2

Acclaimed design with flood in water ballast. Now available in printed paper plans with full size dimensions!

Many clients have requested plansets to work from when building a Redfin 22. Others have suggested improvements over the years that will make this a much better boat. We are now entering a new era in sailboat production, especially with the Redfin 22 MK2.

O

ur Redfin 22 design has had water ballast since 1997. It’s a nice feeling when other designers now deem it absolutely necessary to include water ballast in their ‘new’ craft, and that water ballast prevents capsize problems. Of course it does, and always has.

Jim Young (one of NZ’s best designers and builders) used water ballast in a new range of designs in the late 70’s.

To which I reply, “Yes, correct, I have had a loan of that water as ballast, and I am giving it back now.”

NOW FOR THE BEST NEWS

When I am retrieving the R22 at the ramp someone always says “Hey mate, you’ve sure got a bad water leak somewhere!”

You also cannot believe the relief when towing a 6.6m boat with 2.39m beam that only weighs 450kg behind your car. (Ballast not required when travelling over the roads!) 36 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

So of course my boats are not original in this area, just a bit different and an improvement on Jim’s. I use two separate tanks at each chine; Jim used a different V-bottom design with one tank down the middle. Think about this. The Redfin 22 yacht lines, plans and full size drawings are now available in paper form. That’s right, buy the plans and scaled station measurements, join the dots with a batten, and cut out all component parts with no lofting or design work on your part. You

can source your own supplies in your own time, and build when it suits.

I have had the full size drawings in a drawer for years now, but have pushed the cut kits (cut from my full size plywood patterns) for obvious reasons. I mean, in this mode everything is done for you other than the actual build. You of course pay for this service.

The reason that we have taken this advanced step is that a new method (world first!) has become available to present the model in three dimensions and also results in very accurate patterns. The cut kits will be perfect, your plan version boat will be perfect, so we all win. This decision was taken because:-

1. I know from REAL sailing experience, in all conditions, that we have here if not the best and safest trailer sailer on the market, at least one of the very best.

5. Build from plans and full size drawings or buy a precision cut kit, it’s up to you. Now, the cost to recheck and redraw everything has not helped my bank balance one bit, but I believe in the Redfin 22 so much that it has become, to me, a legacy to leave behind. Plans should be available by the time you read this. Call me 07 3172 9642.

AROUND THE BUILDERS

Alan Thomas from Bairnsdale (near Gippsland lakes) has seen the light of day with his Redfin 22 and is now rigging for a Christmas launching. Now that is a pretty boat.

2. You can build a lot of this boat sitting outside in a chair. It’s that easy.

3. No throwaway jigs, the boat becomes its own jig.

4. Many well known designers and builders have agreed that the method used to construct a Redfin 22 is the best and easiest of all constructions (stitch and tape) with double bias tape and cloth and BoteCote epoxy)

BoatCraft Pacific And all BoatCraft Pacific distributors for

Single Pack Waterproof Polyurethane Adhesive

Epox-E-Glue

1:1 Full Strength Epoxy Adhesive

BoatCraft Pacific

Boat Building Fasteners • Silicon Bronze Engine Bolts • Silicon Bronze Coach Bolts • Silicon Bronze Machine Screws • Silicon Bronze Wood Screws – Flat Head, Oval Head, Round Head, Slot Drive, Philips Drive, Square Drive • Silicon Bronze Ring Grip Nails • Copper Square Boat Nails and Roves • Copper Sheathing Nails

Distributors Throughout Australia

www.boatcraft.com.au

www.boatcraft.com.au

[email protected] p: 07 3806 1944

[email protected] p: 07 3806 1944

46 Chetwynd St, Loganholme, Qld 4129

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 37

Redfin 520.

Paul Kennedy (ex 14’ International Skiff sailor,) will be launching his Redfin 22 very shortly in Brisbane. (shown above). Glen Cruickshank of Kallangur in Brisbane is also very cool with his Redfin 22 and should be on the water when you read this article. Rod Bailley of North Brisbane is finding his Redfin 22 the ideal boat to learn to sail in, and frequently charges out a creek at Sandgate to challenge Moreton Bay.

We have built three Redfin 22 yachts for clients in NSW, and are currently building one at BoatCraft Pacific head office as part of a boat building class.

REDFIN 520 As usual a steady stream of orders just keeps on coming in; Denis Reyer of Brisbane is currently turning his attractive 520 over and should be nearly finished by Christmas.

John Tannock (Qld Wooden Boat Assn.) and Geoff Fuller had a great cruise in their Redfin 520’s recently.

REDFIN 15 (In my opinion the best 15’ boat I have ever sailed)

Manuel of Ipswich near Brisbane has turned his R15 over ready for finishing. He has done a great job of such a pretty boat, using the best light ‘gaboon’ ply available.

However NSW is forming up to be the main centre for Redfins at the moment.

Alan, Rod and Glen have built from plywood with traced patterns drawn on their own plywood, ready for them to cut out at their leisure. This was my original approach and with this concept I sold six kits in two months. I am looking at this idea again so call me on 0478 280 619 for a serious chat.

38 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Gee, it would be nice to have a ‘just launched’ day in Moreton Bay a few days after Christmas.

PLANS AVAILABLE FROM US

It all started with the ‘Cherry 16’ design from Frank Pelin in NZ. I was awarded the Australian kit supplier and never looked back. This was my ‘bread and butter’ line for many years. TBK are also selling plans from a Pelin catalogue of 162 pages (many drawings and on the water photos) now available for $35. (Glossy paper content) Plans also available for many designs of catamarans and trimarans to build in ply, ranging from 10’ to 50’ in paper or downloadable plans with all measurements, designed by Richard Woods. Prices range from $10 to $600.

ABOVE: A most impressive 9.6m trailable yacht we are very proud of. She is still built with marine ply. What else?

MORE TRAILER SAILERS

These craft are fast cruisers nearing the sports boat range, but comfortable to spend a holiday aboard. Okay ... you wanted a trailer sailer, but may have been a bit confused re costs, quality, availability, who to trust and how long it takes to build. Well we now have all that covered! You tell me the size of trailer sailer you want, speedy or cruising, and we will design to your specifications. We have the best designs, access to great quality plywood, a fantastic CNC operator in Brian of Southport, Gold Coast, and also access to some of the best plans for multihulls ever. We use Bote-Cote Epoxy resins and ABOVE: 3D version of our brand new Redfin 22 MK2 (with water ballast, of course). BoatCraft Pacific fibreglass tapes and cloth. (Have you seen the video on YouTube of another ‘Strike 18’ passing a trailer-tri 24 as if it was anchored? UNBELIEVABLE. I am sure Ian Farrier would be as amazed as I was to see that! (youtube … ‘Strike 18 Sailing .wmv’) And this from a very cheap to build 18’ tri built in about a month. Oh, and it is trailable too! Plans, delivered to your email address, cost $220. Ring me now for more info on the Strike ABOVE: Some of these craft have strip planked bottom and chines, with ply topsides, if you want to go strip planking. Above is a 3D image of a 6M trailer sailer. 18 trailable trimaran. We have partnered with Keith, another yacht designer friend of mine, to market and keep designing plans for trailer sailors of all types and sizes. Currently we have designs for sports cruisers to satisfy clients wanting craft in all sizes from 5.6m to 9m. Plans (downloadable electronically) from $480.

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 39

REDFIN 22 Mk2

aft cabin bulkhead here? aft cabin bulkhead here?

original location of aft cabin bulkhead

My mate ‘Johnno’ is building a ‘Strike 18’ tri now, soon ready to turn over and finish. His (approved) version has a long cabin to sleep and look after two crew. Most people buy a ‘Cobra 16’ catamaran and hinge it to a ‘Strike 18’ main hull and go sailing. Great idea! As I mentioned in another article I will be building a Saylon 20 trailable catamaran very soon. This is another smart and economical design from Richard Woods, who is currently in the Bahamas.

PLEASANT TRIP

On Sunday, October 16 ‘Johnno’ and I caught a ferry to Macleay Island on Moreton Bay to have a look at a long ‘Strike 18’ trimaran that was for sale. (that’s two for sale this year.) As there were some rigging problems with the boat during a 30kt race we came away empty handed. Why have I mentioned this?

Well, the welcome we got from the members of such a fine club was outstanding! A great clubhouse, cool views, and such nice people ... we will visit again!

Just so you know where to visit on Moreton Bay – go there! (‘Johnno’ is 81 and I am 80, yet we were made so welcome we felt like teenagers again. Thanks so much guys.)

Finally ... it is important that we all communicate, so we know what you want, and can organise our business accordingly. Besides, when you hear my friendly voice you just have to buy from the best! (I can return your call to anywhere at no cost to you.) Don’t hesitate to call me very late at night because I don’t sleep much.

We have at least eight different plans for trailer sailers, some very fast, others cruising, from 5.2m to 9m, all available now in full size plans or CNC kits. I am also pleased to offer great plans for trimarans and catamarans from the best multihull designer I know.

Remember, the fantastic Redfin 22 MK2 yacht is now available in plans or kits to suit your needs. You can’t fail with TBK.

e: [email protected] p: 07 3172 9642 m: 0478 280 619 Strike 18.

40 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

SHIPMATE!

by BARRIE CALLAGHAN

Have you ever needed supplies in port only to find the store is half an hour walk or you had to call for a cab? This is the situation my nephew found himself in while cruising the coral coast. Knowing I was an importer of bicycles, he asked if there were any folding bikes available that could be stored below deck.

I have encountered a similar problem when touring in my caravan, often I have stayed in an area where bike tracks follow the coastline taking in wonderful sights.

I could install a bike rack on the back of the caravan but the type of caravan I own doesn’t lend itself to that type of application. I could see that many more boaties and caravan travellers have the same problem.

I spent many hours searching my suppliers and manufacturers of folding bikes that would satisfy the needs of many of the above people. I now have available for sale a lightweight and compact folding bike that can be purchased with a carry bag and weighs in at only 13kg. This bike sells for only $295 and the carry bag is an optional extra at $27.50 each. I will provide this carry bag into which the folded bike will fit free to AABB readers. This bike is small enough to freight by parcel post to anywhere in Australia. Contact Barrie m: 0413 262 272 e: [email protected] australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 41

DUTCH TREATS SAILING SOUTH FOR THE

MYSTATE AUSTRALIAN WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL

Mr Bert van Baar (second from right) and the six visiting students discuss their forthcoming tour down-under with barbecue attendees. © Bete Photography

The MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival was the centre of attention at a traditional Aussie barbecue held late last week. Normally this would not be an extraordinary occurrence; however the unusual thing about this event was that the Aussie barbecue was actually held in the Drover’s Dog, a café in Amsterdam.

T

he barbecue was part of AussieOktober, a month of Australian cultural events which includes a unique art exhibition in Utrecht bringing together maps of the Australian coastline from both famous explorers of the Dutch Golden Age as well as contemporary Australian Aboriginal artists. The Australian Embassy in the Netherlands also launched a magazine called Boemerang in conjunction with Dutch Culture. Boemerang features 42 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

stories about the personal, business and political ties between the Dutch and Australians. The Australian Ambassador to the Netherlands, His Excellency Dr Brett Mason, hosted the barbecue and spoke about the significance of the long-standing relationship between The Netherlands and Australia. Also present were six young Dutch boat-building students who are travelling to Tasmania a little later this year with their instructor, Mr Bert van Baar to

Australian Ambassador to the Netherlands H.E. Dr Brett Mason addresses crowd at the Drovers Dog. © Bete Photography

build a BM 16m2 (Bergumer Meer class) sailboat. The boat will be built at the Wooden Boat Centre in Franklin on Tasmania’s Huon River and is to be constructed from recovered Tasmanian myrtle donated by Hydrowood.

The 16m2 BM design dates back to 1931 and, because of its sailing qualities, quickly became very popular in regatta racing. The BM 16m2 is widely used in sailing schools in The Netherlands and many Dutch cruising sailors learned their skills in this nimble sail boat. Mr van Barr told the barbecue’s attendees of his and his student’s excitement as they prepared for their Tasmanian adventure and ultimate participation in the forthcoming MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival.

The BM 16m2 sailboat to be built by the visiting students will be one of the many beautiful Dutch vessels to feature in the 2017 MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival. Others being shipped from The Netherlands include four beautiful wooden Friese tjotters with their typical keels that are bound to draw the attention of onlookers and two Nederlandse 12-voetsjollen (Dutch 12ft dinghies). The Regenboog Oranje, a wedding gift to the Dutch Royal Couple, will also feature at the festival. Oranje

is the flagship of the Regenboogklasse (Rainbow Class) which, in 2017, will celebrate 100 years of racing in The Netherlands.

Another crowd-pleaser making the journey from the Netherlands to Tasmania is Reinier Sijpkens with his famous Muziekboot (Musicboat) which will delight audiences around the waterfront of Hobart during the four-day MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival next February.

AT A GLANCE WHAT 12th MyState Australian Wooden Boat Festival WHEN February 10-13, 2017 WHERE Sullivan’s Cove, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia INFORMATION www.australianwoodenboatfestival.com.au EVENT BLOG http://awbf.com.au CONTACT [email protected] australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 43

Random Roving Boats Notes Ireland and Scotland. August 2016 Skiffs on the ‘beach’ in Shieldaig...

Water cooled electric pod for Barnaby’s new ‘Haiku’.

OCH! IT WAS COLD!

Iain with his RC model ‘Haiku’.

44 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Shieldaig’s newest is taken to the water...

Iain’s model ‘Haiku’ with her lid off...

Robert and Iain figuring out the new ‘Raid’ sail rig for the St Ayles Skiff, and tweaking the rudder system on ‘Haiku’...

The real thing! Barnaby’s ‘Haiku’ after turn over. Note the turning frame. We should have the files for the complete hull build in the next few weeks. The boat is being built in Barnaby’s Waywood furniture studio/workshop.

Dinner in Iain’s cottage, Skye.

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 45

BUILD YOUR OWN LIGHT WEIGHT TRAILER BOAT! This cor ner of the market is flooded with choice and there is a reason for this. The half cabin trailer boat is a compact way to get out on the water and is a popular concept for family boating and fishing. This size is also relatively affordable without the berthing headaches associated with larger boats. This is a market largely dominated by production boats which are mostly built using solid FRP construction making the boats very heavy, requiring more horsepower and using more fuel. They are also predominately monohulls but catamarans also have a considerable market share.

46 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Craig Schionning introduces the

RAPID 5000

K

its for boats of this size are not very common rides beautifully and is very comfortable. The twin and even less common in light-weight hulls force a combination of water and air through the composite epoxy materials. The Rapid 5000 tunnel essentially riding on a cushion of air. can be supplied in a comprehensive kit package The Rapid’s stylish half cabin design provides good comprising of either Duflex panels or Gaboon shelter and is intended to have fixed safety glass plywood. Our Ripple tender range of designs has windows for extra protection. Inside the cabin are a been extremely popular and has proven to be couple of single bunks and space for storage. Below very easy and quick to assemble. The Rapid 5000 the self-draining wet-deck are the fuel tanks at a uses the same assembly method beginning with capacity of 50 litres each side. Between the engines an interlocking MDF build frame which creates the is an extension of the bridgedeck creating a small aft jig for the hull to be built over. A major advantage deck for boarding. From here access into the boat is with this process to form the hull is that it allows the through a door in the aft bulkhead which is latched builder ample time to ensure that all hull panels fit when underway. The aft deck is spacious and open appropriately and are running fairly. All panels can plan if fishing is the interest; or additional seating can be fitted and scrutinized before any epoxy filler is fitted for recreational activities. applied. Once the builder is satisfied, all seams/joins An advantage with building your own boat is of course can be filled. With the filler cured the hull is a onefinishing and fitting it out exactly to your own tastes. piece structure and the corners are sanded down in Setting your own layout for bait tanks, in-built esky, preparation for the glassing. The Duflex system only cutting boards etc is in your hands. These days vinyl requires glass tapes to join the panels whereas the wrap finish can save quite a bit of finishing work on plywood version is sheathed in a light layer of woven the hull topsides and create a stunning result with glass cloth in addition to the tapes as a waterproofing impressive modern design graphics. and wear skin. The hull bottoms also have additional laminate applied for protection on the trailer and beaching. SPECIFICATIONS The Rapid 5000 design is powered LOA 5.05m / 16ft 6in  by twin outboard engines starting BOA 2.45m / 8ft at 40hp up to 70hp. Because of the DRAFT 375mm / 1ft 2in lightweight epoxy structure horsepower DESIGN DISPLACEMENT 950kgs / 2094 pounds  can be reduced which in turn saves BRIDGEDECK CLEARANCE 330mm / 1ft 1in on fuel consumption as well as PAYLOAD  400kgs / 882 pounds  capacity. Estimated speeds with 40hp REC. ENGINE SIZE Twin 50hp Outboard engines will be approximately 25kts ESTIMATED at cruise and over 30kts top. The hull BUILD HOURS 500 (basic standard finish) shape has been derived from the KIT COST FROM AU$12,400.00 excl. GST very successful Spirited 230 which FULLY BUILT COST FROM AU$57,600.00 excl. GST  is a 7m full cabin design. Despite its ESTIMATED TOTAL MATERIAL COST AU$35,000.00 excl. GST  lightweight displacement this design

For more information about this design and our range of other designs please check out: www.spiriteddesigns.com.au australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 47

BUILDING THE

MOYNE 12

PART ONE

by PAT REECE

We’ve been working closely with Nick Atkins over the last couple of years, building and selling his range of pre cut kits, pre cut canoes etc. Up until now Nick’s focus has been mainly been on double ended beach boats. The Belfast range has sizes from 9ft right up to 17ft, extremely pretty in style but maybe a little complex and off putting for a first time builder.

N

ow we can proudly introduce the first of Nick’s Transom dinghies, the Moyne 12. With an LOA of 12ft and beam of 4ft9, she’s a multi purpose day sailer or motor vessel with a small outboard. In true Atkins style, she’s has generous garboard planks giving a nice wide bottom with a tight turn in the bilge. This means the little boat has a huge load carrying capacity, and stable too. Spring School 2016 saw two of these dinghies being built. This gave us the opportunity to see how 48 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

easy the kits were to put together, and fine tune any changes. In the 10 day course the first ever Moyne 12 was finish planked and taken off her bulding jig.

So this is part one of a three part article on how to build the Moyne 12. Nick has put in over 10 years of R&D in his kits so we can assure these kits are perfect in every detail.

BELOW LEFT TO RIGHT: Numbered planks makes assembly very easy. The kit arrives as 8 x 4 flat pack. Inner Stem laminations. Within 30 minutes the building jig is up! Garboard planks are glued up and looking very fair. The finished hull, very pretty little boat!

Day one and the fun begins. We start with laminating the inner stem, this gives it a full 24 hours cure time so it can be shaped in the coming days. The afternoon sees the building jig assembled. This is an exciting time, the first Moyne 12 coming to life. The self aligning jig only takes approx 30 minutes to put together, once setup on trestles and sighted so its nice and straight the building can begin.

The stem is roughly shaped on the bench and cut for the keelson. The kit comes standard with a 3mm MDF transom template or an optional extra is to have a pre made and bevelled solid timber transom. The floors can be either fitted before planking or after. Another option is to have the floors CNC cut and bevelled, this ensures perfect fit. We now have the shaped stem in place along with the transom, the keelson can be glued in place and bevelled. I cut the bevel on keelson using the table saw then finished it off with a

hand plane. Gluing up the planks is a simple task with Nick’s unique 3D puzzle joint, we wet up the joint with WEST System epoxy and clamp it up and let cure overnight. We are now ready to start planking! Dry fitting planks to make sure correct positioning fore and aft. Once glued the next plank can be bevelled, gains cut, glued up and so on. The kit also comes with MDF template for the outer stem, this can be laminated up in down time if your waiting for glue to cure. When all the planking is done, ends can trimmed up and the hull can come off the building jig.

SO WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THE BASIC KIT? • Hull planking using 6mm European Gaboon ply, Nick’s unique 3D puzzle joint for joining planks

• 12mm MDF self aligning building jig

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 49

Molds up and inner stem support in place.

Most of the internal structure has been cutaway to give good access inside for cleaning up during the building.

ABOVE AND ABOVE RIGHT: Both Moyne 12 dinghies steaming along!

ABOVE AND ABOVE RIGHT: The end result, a fully planked boat in just 10 days! Yes it’s possible!

• MDF templates for transom, both inner and outer stems and floors

• Consumables pack including all your WEST System epoxy resins, filler powders, gloves, mixing cups etc • Solid timber pack, gunwales, inwales, fitout timbers etc.

Optional extras can include, pre glued, cut and bevelled transom and floors, pre laminated inner and outer stems. 50 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Interested in building a Moyne 12 but not sure about the construction?

Duck Flat Woodenboats are now building bare hulls in our workshop ready for you to finish off yourself. Lead time of around 4-6 weeks, all the hard work is done. Contact Duck Flat Woodenboats for kit and bare hull pricing on 08 8391 3988 or email us at [email protected] Follow our projects on Instagram and Facebook pages.

THE WOODRUFF KEY by RICHARD SMITH

As we all know boats are manoeuvrable things, they can go backwards, forwards, side to side, up and down and sometimes all of the above at the same time.

O

ne day I went out with three of the RSA Fishing Club members. We were heading to the southern end of Waiheke Island in Auckland harbour where the big schnapper were supposed to be (I never saw any). The boat we were on was about 15-16ft but well found and seaworthy and was named Forgot due to the owners’ penchant for forgetting things.

We were motoring out to the fishing spot when the boat started to go off course side to side, broach into the chop round in big circles. What the hell was going on? We asked the skipper, “steering not working,” he replied turning the steering wheel round and round uselessly with no response from the outboard.

Well of course the boat had to have a tool kit (not) but we managed to prise the cap off the steering wheel and found the shaft nut rattling around inside which we retrieved. So far so good but then disaster, the skipper who was a bit impetuous grabbed the wheel

and before we could stop him pulled it off and of course the woodruff key fell to the flooring and on into the bilge via one of the gaps between the floor and the frame.

Unfortunately the floor was in large panels and a rather hilarious time was had while the four of us plus gear had to manoeuvre ourselves around the boat so we could get to the key which of course was very hard to find in the dark bilge. It was eventually found and the helm was reassembled and the nut tightened as best we could with the fish hook removing pliers. Now you think that this was a once in a lifetime event but not so. Many decades later now on the Gold Coast my wife and I were going to Stradbroke Island with our friends in their lovely modern boat when the steering wheel came loose. Good thing I knew exactly what to do and retrieved the nut and the key and reassembled it.

I guess the point here is that helm wheels can loosen up and should be checked as part of your maintenance regime. After all No Key No Steering and as I said at the beginning boats go in all different directions at once if left to their own devices.

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 51

FIREBUGNEWS

Hobart v Sydney. It was great fun for all, young and old. An amazing new experience for many!

by PETER TAIT

FIREBUGS – WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT?

The FireBug has always primarily been about ‘Build a boat and learn to sail at low cost’.

It has been a great success and thousands of people, adults and children alike have had great fun building and sailing, learning and enjoying the beach and all the newly acquired skills. The big bonus is sailing in races and now there are small fleets of self built boats competing in regattas in many countries around the world. Fantastic!

NEW BOATS AROUND THE WORLD... IN QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND

Hugh’s workshop-on-the-water. Quick dip to cool down at lunchtime?

IN YASS, NSW

Suzanne Pollack is enjoying teaching herself woodwork and is very excited that a boat is coming together in the shed! Boatbuilder in the making, Suzanne.

IN ONTARIO, CANADA

Robert McLean is doing an immaculate job, the best I have seen for some time! The hull is complete except for final painting. Robert fits his boatbuilding between long holidays away so doesn’t expect to be on the water before next northern summer.

Retired British architect Hugh Skinner is building in a lakeside boatshed on Lake Whakatipu, New Zealand’s most beautiful lake. Note that there are built in rowlocks and is that an outboard bracket Hugh?

52 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Robert doing an immaculate job.

SYDNEY HOBART RACE IN FIREBUGS!

Sydney’s Concord Ryde Sailing Club sailed against Hobart’s Lindisfarne Club in the first Australian Interclub/Interstate Regatta. The Derwent west of the Tasman Bridge in Hobart is just right for small boat sailing. There was a total of 14 entries making it Australia’s biggest fleet of FireBugs so far. (The current record is 26 at PPYC in Christchurch NZ.) To keep things easy and keep costs down Concord Ryde borrowed local boats for the contest. Local knowledge combined with excellent sailing skills gave the advantage to the Lindisfarne Sailing Club Sailors and the final results were: First overall, Oli Pritchard, second Max Gluskie from LSC. Third Thom Hardman and first adult was Phil Sullivan, both from Sydney. ALSO – second placed Max Gluskie has been selected to go to Germany to contest the Laser 4.7 radial world championship. He is one of our original Firebug builder/sailors at Lindisfarne. Well done Max!

Happy skippers at Lindisfarne Sailing Club in Hobart Tasmania.

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Race start with the iconic Tasman Bridge in the background.

Adele (Flipper) Aucherlonie recovering from a deliberate cartwheel.‘Did you see that? Fabo Mt Wellington in the background.

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LEFT: Luke Franklin sailing at Concord Ryde Sailing Club in Sydney. State of the art boat.

‘FIRE UP’ – OUTSTANDING RACEBUG

John Franklin’s boat was built in just three weeks in a gotta-be-finished-before-Christmas rush a couple of years ago. The beautifully set up and presented boat is pictured above being sailed by John’s son Luke at the Sydney club Concord Ryde at Parramatta. The wooden trim looks great. Nice job!

SWEET LINES OF THE FIREBUG Rodney’s boat under construction.

IN CHINA

Rodney Zhang writes, “My boat is now stored at a holiday resort in Changchun City. I’ll finish my degree of Marine Technology this year at Unitec in Auckland and may go back to China to start my career.’”

IN HOPPER’S CROSSING VICTORIA Nice lines, no wonder they slip along so fast! Patrick Sullivan in ‘Blue Bug’ at CRSC.

A ‘BUG CHAMPIONSHIP IN OZ After the success of the interclub event hosted by Lindisfarne Sailing Club in competition with Concord Ryde Sailing Club last April, Firebug Dinghies Australia will hold its first open championship at CRSC in Sydney on February 18/19 2017. There will be adult and junior prizes in keeping with club’s philosophy of ‘Grey Fleet’ and ‘Green Fleet’ and a prize for the best presented boat. Some boats will be available for loan to overseas/ interstate visitors. Details will be on the Australian website: http://firebugdinghiesaustralia.weebly.com/

Psst, would it be too early to put money on New Zealand? 54 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Damian Royes writes “My dream retirement plan is to build a yacht big enough to sail from Melbourne to North Queensland, to escape the Damien doing a nice tidy job. winters! The ‘Bug is the first step in achieving this goal.”

THANKS FOR THE STORIES AND PHOTOS!

Des Clark and various LSC members, Hugh Skinner, Ross Venner, Damien Royes, David Yeates, Rodney Zhang, Robert McLean, Suzanne Pollack, Satoshi Akita and Nicole Williams. Some will appear in the next issue.

IN IRELAND David Yeates junior’s ‘BugBuild has suffered a setback with another wee babe in the family taking all the attention. Sonny boy is impatient to get on with the build.

The all new ‘Bug website lookin’ great.

NEW FIREBUG WEBSITE

The Home Website for FireBugs is currently being re-built and will go live in the next few weeks.

‘Okay then, I’ll finish it myself!’

‘GADGET CORNER’

Hugh Skinner’s photo showing the up-ended building jig being used to store all the parts as things progress!

Satoshi’s FireBug at the Show.

IN JAPAN AT THE YOKOHAMA BOAT SHOW “Dear Peter, I didn’t take any photos at the Boat Show.The photos attached are the scene that we are preparing the day before opening. Unfortunately the area was like a hiding place! However I enjoyed to meet many old sailing friends I hadn’t seen for a long time. It was a very enjoyable! – Best Regards Satoshi. australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 55

BELLINGER CANOE

UPDATE

FIGURE FIVE – The no longer novices.

by DAVE GIDDINGS – DRIVE MARINE

The team at DRIVE Marine Services (DMS) joined together with The Australian National Maritime Museum (ANMM) and Institute of Industrial Arts Technology Education (IIATE) for the first time in 2016 to host the inaugural Novice Canoe Building Challenge at the 2016 Sydney Classic & Wooden Boat Festival (C&WBF). The challenge involved teams of students from Carlingford, Pennant Hills and Turramurra High Schools and Lumen Christi Catholic College constructing a Bellinger Double Chine Canoe in three days at the Sydney C&WBF held at the Australian National Maritime Museum in Darling Harbour from April 15-17, 2016. The supervising teachers also joined in and made their own canoe in between supervising the students which was fairly easy with such a motivated group.

56 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

T

he canoes were constructed under the expert guidance of Brian Jones (the designer of the Bellinger and retired primary school teacher) using materials donated by DRIVE Marine and BoatCraft Pacific, the students constructed the canoes from precut panels of 4mm plywood, cable ties, Bote-Cote Epoxy Resin thickened with Bote-Cote’s easy to mix Gluing and Filleting Filler. Another important ingredient in the mix was Alesha Bleakley – the dynamo teacher who dug up the teams and helped pull the challenge together. Alesha gave up her weekend, to supervise the event after organising custom made aprons for each student. Then there was Emma Ferguson and Lynda Kelly from the ANMM who provided the venue, lunch for all team members and even found accommodation for the out of town team. The first morning of the festival saw the teams gathered along the water’s edge to be briefed by Brian on the initial steps of playing with Bote-Cote and assembling their canoes as shown in figure one. The students then split up into their teams and began planing their ply,

FIGURE ONE – Students on steep learning curve.

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TOP: FIGURE TWO – Brian providing guidance. ABOVE: FIGURE THREE – Brian’s gunnel clamping tool.

58 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

before joining the panels with a butt-strap and their first opportunity to play with Bote-Cote. Brian assembled the gaggle on a regular basis to introduce the next step. Brian mulled around throughout the day to assist students and ensure there were no questions left unasked as the students worked together to assemble their canoes. It was amazing to see students who had never done any boat building previously, working cooperatively at a cracking pace bringing the canoes to life with figure two showing the students into it. By the end of day one, all teams had their canoes pulled into shape with cable ties ready to have a ‘gupping’ good time on Saturday filleting all of the seams. By Saturday evening all seams were completed and a coat of Bote-Cote applied on the inside. Brian even showed his engineering prowess when he brought out his gunnel clamping tool that proved a dream to use for pulling the gunnels in at the stems with the beast in action at figure three. The aim was to roll the canoes over on Sunday morning and coat the outside with a generous layer of Bote-Cote ready for a 1400 launch. Unfortunately, the plan was thwarted as inclement weather arrived and dashed the plan. So Sunday was spent removing cable ties and cleaning up the outside as shown at figure four. A video of the build was taken by Charlotte and cut down to 30 minutes of how to build a Bellinger canoe at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQEV_ Y2z1I4&t=227s It is also very entertaining and will give you an insight into how to take a flat pack and turn it into a Bellinger in easy steps. During and after the C&WBF there has been an overwhelming amount of feedback complimenting the success of the canoe build. The students and teachers learnt not only how to build a canoe but also about the ease of using modern technology products which provide a safer

FIGURE FOUR – Finishing off on Sunday.

way to work. For more information on modern technology epoxies go to: http://www.boatcraftnsw. com/portfolio-view/working-with-moderntechnology-epoxies-a-safer-way-to-work/ It is also hoped the Novice Canoe Building weekend will give the students some good ideas for their HSC projects and future careers. Three students were so impressed with what they had achieved that by Sunday afternoon they were enquiring how they could get into a boatbuilding career. Figure five (lead in pic) shows the proud students lined up with their canoes on Sunday before the big splash. Then there was the launching and race in Cockle Bay when many laughs were had as the supervising teachers had to show their paddling prowess. We are sure the teachers will never admit it but the student’s canoes definitely remained afloat a lot longer than the teacher’s ... The teams should be commended for the quality of their builds as the work produced was fantastic! Congratulations to Carlingford High School coming in first for the quality of their build and Pennant Hills High School coming in first in the Canoe Race.

Since then Brian, has been back at Tuncurry and Bulladellah High Schools building more canoes with disengaged students. He recently informed me that with the build at Darling Harbour the number of Bellinger canoes built by students is now over one hundred. In addition, several other schools have taken up the challenge of building Bellinger Canoes as a practical program for their students. The next opportunity to see Bellinger Canoes being built in public will be at the Australian Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart from February 10-13, 2017. We showed Paul Cullen (General Manager AWBF) how much fun the students were having at the Sydney C&WBF and he went away with a mission to have the Novice Canoe Challenge in Hobart. The teams will be slaving away under Brian’s expert tutelage in the Shipwright’s Village and the finished canoes should be pristine, having an extra day to finish them off. The teams should even be able to get gunnels on them and you never know, but there may even be some time for creative artwork before hitting the water. See you all in Hobart for another great festival and if you want to know more about a safer way to work with modern technology epoxies, paints and other boat building materials come and listen to me waffle on in the Maritime Marketplace Theatrette on my favourite subject and say hello. For more information contact the team at DRIVE Marine Services by checking out the advertisement below.

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 59

GOLD COAST MARINE EXPO MOVES TO MARCH 2017 TO BECOME THE GOLD COAST INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW AND WELCOMES THE BIA AS A SHOW PARTNER

Creating Australia’s first boat show of the year – The Gold Coast International Boat Show & Marine Expo The first major event of the 2017 Australian boat show season will be staged in March right in the heart of the nation’s recreational boating industry capital on Queensland’s Gold Coast.

The Gold Coast International Boat Show & Marine Expo sees the dates of the award-winning Gold Coast International Marine Expo move forward to 17-19 March 2017

60 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

LEFT: The Gold Coast International Boat Show is the first major event of the 2017 Australian boat show season and will be staged in March right in the heart of the nation’s recreational boating industry capital on Queensland’s Gold Coast

T

he Gold Coast International Boat Show & Marine Expo sees the dates of the awardwinning Gold Coast International Marine Expo move forward to March 17-19, 2017. The Gold Coast International Boat Show & Marine Expo will be operated and managed with the support of the Boating Industry Association – Australia’s peak industry representative body, and held at the Gold Coast Marine Precinct at Coomera. Boating Industry Association national chief executive Howard Glenn said the March boat show dates will be the catalyst for an exciting new era for Australia’s marine industry. “The timing of this March event is seasonally important for boating enthusiasts and it also opens up an exciting opportunity for our industry to continue to innovate and grow,” Mr Glenn said. Expo’s dedicated Event & Marketing Manager Emma Brown will lead the boat show management team to ensure a smooth transition to the 2017 March dates. “A stand-alone Gold Coast International Boat Show & Marine Expo means the Expo we all know and love will be able to continue to grow and build on its proven success – 2016 was our biggest show in six years,” said Mrs Brown. “The new March dates create further lead time for our exhibitors as existing boat owners can prepare for their coming summer – fresh in their minds are their considerations for repowering, replacing or upgrading their boat’s systems and accessories, or buying a new boat or yacht to further enhance their leisure time with their families next season. “For manufacturers, importers as well as accessories and service providers, the pre-winter campaign timing is a business imperative.” Mrs Brown said that the full support of the BIA is immensely significant and welcome. “The skills, resources and experience the BIA brings to the table will be invaluable for our boat show, and for our industry as a whole. “With our new dates, we are now taking ‘the boat show with so much more’ to a whole new level.” Application to exhibit for the 2017 Gold Coast International Boat Show & Marine Expo to be staged in March 2017 will be released today. Exhibitors are invited to register their interest by contacting the show team via www.gcmarineexpo.com.au If you love boating, you’ll really love the Gold Coast in March.

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AFFORDABLE

FISHER PART 17

WANT A 50 GRAND SEA FISHING BOAT FOR LESS THAN 20? THIS IS HOW TO DO IT! by PETER CAPLEN

Last issue we covered the installation of an anchor windlass. This issue we are looking at fitting imitation teak decking which is surprisingly hard wearing and lifts the appearance of any vessel especially where resale value is important. This is a big subject so I have restricted it to just showing the basic technique involved with the work.

M

ost people are aware of the various faux teak deck systems now available and while Dek-King by Wilks (the fender people from Tollesbury) may not yet be the most well-known name, it is rapidly becoming the decking of choice in the UK due to its superior design. Furthermore Wilks have taken the decking idea and extended it to cover fendering, hand rails, toe rails and bulwark cappings which all now feature in their ‘Traditional’ range. All of these new sections are made from 100% recycled plastic so also dramatically cutting down on waste. The benefits of Dek-King are not hard to see; more or less maintenance-free apart from cleaning in the spring to remove the winter’s verdigris. A pressure washer is all that is needed to remove dirt, unlike real teak which is soon destroyed with the use of a pressure washer. Serious stains can be removed by rubbing with 40 grit production paper thus ensuring that it always looks near new.

62 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

For this article we have used all of the latest extrusions in what is a first for any magazine. As AABB is firmly practical we are beginning with a tutorial on how to use Dek-King materials in order for readers to be able tackle the job themselves and therefore save a fortune in labour costs.

The first thing to remember with Dek-King is that there are no rules! You can do exactly as you please with it as long as the basic principles concerning preparation and adhesives are concerned. Other than that the design of the deck layout and other uses you find are entirely up to you. There are no specific skills required to lay Dek-King other than infinite patience and extreme care. With these two basic abilities you can transform any vessel and there is no doubt that Dek-King lifts the appearance of every craft onto which it is laid.

We begin by looking at the method of laying a basic Dek-King deck. The first decision is the style of deck.

You can either have the planks running fore and aft in a straight line or curving to follow the line of the gunwale. Both have their advantages and drawbacks with regard to the fitting process so there is nothing to be gained by choosing one over the other apart from the appearance that you find most pleasing.

Where deck paint has been previously used, this must be removed along with any other single pack finishes on the deck. Properly adhered two pack polyurethanes and epoxy coatings can remain.

Curved Dek-King.

Fore and aft Dek-King.

These are the basic deck materials: From left to right: Extra wide King-Plank without caulk edge – ‘Tee’ section caulking strip – intermediate strip with one caulk edge – outside strip with one rolled edge and one caulk edge. Stelmax clear adhesive for joining strips prior to laying – black Sealtack 750 for bonding decking to the deck and additional caulking. As with every job the first stage is the preparation. In this case it was necessary to first sand the deck and then to fill all the low spots to give a flush finish.

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 63

One of the new extrusions we are using on this deck is the gunwale capping. This is a large and very substantial section with a lip designed to cap off the gunwale and finish the edge. Due to its very newness we were supplied with unsanded sections which look exactly what they are, plastic extrusions!

The ends can then be roughly shaped and we find that a small ‘Surform’ plane is an ideal tool for this job.

However, once sanded with a belt sander they are instantly transformed into very convincing teak sections.

The section is then finished by hand ready for fitting. In our case we decided to use several short lengths with gaps where the fairleads are situated. The other option is to have one single length but as the fairleads were already fitted with stainless steel deck edge protectors we decided against that option.

As we are using these heavy sections they are the first to be prepared and laid. We begin by cutting a section to length and then screwing it to the bench ready for sanding.

Once each section had been prepared the previously sanded deck was dusted off ready to begin the fitting work.

The majority of sanding can then be completed by running the belt sander along the section while firmly attached to the bench. Detailed finishing is performed with the belt sander clamped to the bench and the section finished freehand as per pics’ 6 and 7.

The first section to be fitted is placed in position and the edge marked onto the deck.

64 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

The remaining sections are then fitted in the same way.

Beads of Sealtack are gunned onto the deck to seal beneath the edges of the section and to bond it to the deck. Note: If the section is to bonded and not subsequently screwed then the entire area will need coating with Sealtack in the same way as the decking strips.

For this project the sections are then screwed to the deck using stainless steel self tapping screws.

Once all sections are completed on both sides the next step is to begin laying the actual deck. A rubber faced mallet is then used to bed the section onto the sealant to ensure a good bond.

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Note: If the gunwale cappings are not being used then the deck laying work begins here with the cutting and fixing of the deck margins.

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The first step is to measure and mark the centre of the fore cabin in preparation for laying the margin sections that edge the deck.

The decking strip can then be cut using the tool of your choice. We like to use a pair of large tin snips, but a craft knife is equally suited to the task.

Note: If we hadn’t used the gunwale cappings for the outside edge a margin would have been laid on the outside edge as well.

It is then necessary to mark the corners and find the centre of the angle between each cabin face. This is easily done by marking a line perpendicular to each cabin face and then halving it with a centre-line. It is necessary to allow for half the width of the caulking strip before cutting the decking to length, as will be seen in a moment. You can see the marks used at each corner. The choice is then to either make up cardboard templates for each section or cut each length slightly oversize and mark it directly off the lines on the deck. We tend to use the former as it is less wasteful.

A short piece of ‘caulking’ extrusion is offered up on the end of the strip. This is what the allowance mentioned earlier is for.

The caulking extrusions can then be cut to length. In this case we find a craft knife to be the most practical.

The template can then be used to transfer the angle and length to the Dek-King.

66 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Once a line of decking strip has been cut to length, a pencil along the edge needs to be drawn as a guide when applying the Sealtack adhesive.

The area is then brushed off to remove all dust and odd bits of trimmed-off decking.

The first section of Dek-King can now be carefully laid within the marked area.

The Sealtack is then applied by gunning it in lines along the marked deck area and then evenly spread using a notched tiling trowel perpendicular to the length of decking.

The previously cut caulking piece is slipped under the end of the decking strip and the whole process is repeated for the next section of margin.

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Once the strips for the current section are all laid a flooring roller is used to flatten them off and ensure that the Sealtack is squeezed up into the ‘ribs’ moulded into the underside of the decking.

Again for this purpose we found a craft knife the best tool for cutting.

If any areas appear to be lifting, it will necessary to weigh them down until the sealant has cured.

The King plank can then be offered up onto the deck and marked ready for trimming to length.

With the margins complete the next job is the King plank on the fore-deck. In this case where the bow cleat and anchor windlass are on or near the centre of the deck it is best to make a template to ensure the King plank is accurately cut.

Once the template is complete it can be transferred to the King plank section ready for cutting. 68 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Where the decking goes around equipment it is important to mask everything prior to laying the sealant.

The edges of the King plank are marked onto the deck and the adhesive applied in lines in the same manner as for the margins. It is then spread across using the tiling comb ready for the King plank to be positioned and rolled down in the normal manner.

The first piece of decking can now be laid. A strip is placed alongside the king plank (as we are using a fore and aft design) and the forward end is marked to match the the shape of the gunwale capping using any suitable materials as a guide.

The other end of the plank can now be marked ready for cutting to length.

Note: If we were using the curved decking design then the ends of the decking would be left to overlap the King plank. We will looking at the technique required in part two of this series.

The same technique is repeated with each adjacent plank until the entire area is covered. At this stage the planks are all loosely clipped together ready to be formed into a ‘mat’.

The end of the plank is cut using the tin snips.

Stelmax adhesive is now used to join all the prepared planks into the mat.

The plank can then be offered up in position and if necessary adjusted to correct any misalgnment.

While the planks are laying in position a straight line is drawn across the mat to assist with later assembly of the mat. australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 69

The mat can now be disassembled. If the planks are of very similar length it is a good idea to number them before dismantling).

This plank is then pressed into the previous plank and the pencil mark aligned to ensure the mat is reassembled exactly as it was removed. The adhesive will adhere within a few moments and there is no need to hold the planks together once they are joined as they remain in contact themselves except on tight curves where some weight may be needed for a few minutes. In the case of these straight planks this is not necessary.

With the planks removed the edges of the margin can be cleaned of excess adhesive and anything else likely to interfere with the final laying of the mat.

Once the entire mat is assembled and has been left for a few minutes for the adhesive to cure it can be lifted away to allow the deck area to be prepared. Stelmax adhesive is run into the groove along one edge of the planking.

70 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Before the mat is finally bonded down there is an opportunity to make any adjustments such as smoothing the edges, again using the Surform.

After brushing off the deck, applying the adhesive and combing it out, the mat can be laid taking care to ensure it is correctly positioned before pressing into place.

The whole area is weighted down over night to ensure it doesn’t lift. Anything heavy will do for weights and bags of wet sand are particularly good.

Apart from final cleaning, that completes this section of the deck and covers the basic techniques for laying Dek-King margins and decking mats.

Next issue we will be looking at some of the tricks we used when laying decking and matching gunwale cappings in other areas of the boat.

The mat is then pressed down all round and rolled to ensure it is properly bonded to the deck.

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 71

RETRACTABLE

NAVIGATION LIGHTS

ENHANCE DECK SAFETY

Accon Marine’s 205 port (top left), 206 starboard and 207 side pop-up lights.

Although essential for safe operation at night, navigation lights can sometimes represent hazards when they’re not being used. Protruding housings can stub unsuspecting toes, or even lead to a trip and fall. Pop-Up® navigation lights from Accon Marine recess into the deck when not needed, preserving the boat’s clean lines while enhancing occupant safety.

M

ade from marine-grade 316 stainless steel, the 205-M Stainless Port Light, 206-M stainless starboard light and 207-M stainless side lights each feature a fully retractable design that leaves the deck flush when out of use. USCG-approved to 1nm, the lights meet the 72 Colregs protocol and are NMMA typeaccepted. Each uses a compact #78 bulb that yields brilliant illumination from a streamlined and stylish housing. Mounting is easy, as each light in the series is supplied with a cut-out template and fastens into place with three #10 screws (not included). For best results, using Accon Marine’s 204-M-C waterproofing cup prevents water intrusion below deck. An installation video on YouTube is at bit.ly/2e4F0DE CONTACT ACCON MARINE www.acconmarine.com

72 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

Dear Ed Some time ago Australasian Amateur Boatbuilder/ KitBoats magazine published an article on the Jim Betts designed boat called the GP16. Three boats of this design were built by Rob Bruce of Newery Island in NSW. I have a set of plans but am interested in buying an already built boat. regards – Brook Murphy [email protected]

Dear Ed I have recently bought a K22 Penta 2 cylinder, 10hp marine engine and am trying to find some history about it. I believe it to be a 1930’s vintage and was told it came out of a lifeboat and that it was on the dock at Newcastle for some time. Does any reader know about this?

regards – Brian Hair [email protected]

Dear Ed I am building a small motor boat. Having finished the hull, I found I would have to manufacture the rudder gudgeons and pintles, as I could find no standard product to fit the rudder. However in my ignorance the version that I designed and built will not let the rudder turn more than 40°. I read somewhere that the rudders of traditional yachts become a brake when turned more than 35°. I was wondering if this applies to motor boats. The rudder is hung on the transom and not attached to the skeg. I hope some of your experts could enlighten me, as the thought of remaking these items is depressing. Yours sincerely Robert Donaldson (Please email [email protected] and I will ensure Robert receives any replies)

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 73

YANMAR AT WORK AND IN RETIREMENT Boaters rarely come more dedicated to the Yanmar brand than Geoff T ickle. Following a 23 year career selling Yanmar marine and industrial diesel engines, Geoff retired to enjoy cruising aboard his Yanmar 6LPASTP2 powered cruiser.

74 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

T

hroughout their lives, both Geoff and his wife Brenda, have been avid boaties. As children they grew up in boating families that frequently went boating on weekends and holidays. Geoff and Brenda Tickle purchased their first boat together in the 1970’s. Fast forward 30 years and several boats later, and Geoff and Brenda were thinking about a boat for their retirement years. Their boat of the day was a 26’ Honeymoon displacement cruiser with a Yanmar 4JH4 engine. With a cruise speed of 7.5kts it was too slow. In 2005, the brief for the new boat was to go bigger and purchase a hull suited to cruising up the coast

“The only downside with Sanuk was that it didn’t have a Yanmar engine in the engine room,” said Geoff. With the original 225hp engine on board, it was decided to use the boat with this engine for a few years. That was until 2009 when Geoff Tickle decided the time was right to repower the boat with a Yanmar 6LPA-STP2 matched to a Yanmar KM50A transmission. “There was never any doubt about what brand of engine I was going to use on board Sanuk,” Geoff said.

“Through all my years of working with the Yanmar brand, I knew just how good these engines are. I also knew that the Yanmar 6LPA-STP2 was also being fitted as the engine of choice to the latest Fairway 36 hulls because the performance was significantly better with the extra power.” Working in with his local Yanmar Dealer, Geoff Tickle stripped out the engine room and started from fresh. The engine bearers were slightly modified to accept the new Yanmar marine diesel engine.

The Yanmar 6LPA-STP2 was 200kgs lighter than the old 225hp engine and the Yanmar was also physically smaller. This allowed the Yanmar to be installed further aft allowing extra space between the front of the engine and the bulkhead. There was also more room either side of the Yanmar engine, which permitted a reconfiguration of the engine room. There was now clear access all around the Yanmar for easy servicing.

The Yanmar 6LPA-STP2 is a sophisticated, true hi-performance and well proven package. It is direct injected with mechanical governor equipped turbocharger with intercooler. This straight 6 cylinder engine pumps out 315mhp at 3800rpm at the flywheel. The 4-valve per cylinder engine boasts a 4.2 litre displacement for sustained torque through the mid rev range while still offering an impressive powerto-weight advantage coming in with a dry weight of only 408kgs without the transmission. of Queensland at a decent speed. It had to be easy for the retired couple to manage and of course economical to run.

“We thought that the Fairway 36 was an ideal boat for us,” Geoff Tickle said. “However when we were looking to purchase there was a two year waiting list on a new Fairway hull. While we were searching around we came across Sanuk for sale at Sanctuary Cove.”

Sanuk is a Fairway 36, a big and beamy displacement cruiser which was built on the Gold Coast in 1998. Sanuk is a Thai name which translated into English means ‘fun’.

With Sanuk back on the water the transformation in performance has been nothing short of astounding; more power, lighter, smaller and lower fuel consumption. Even on the most fundamental of parameters, outright speed, the Yanmar is a clear winner.

With the Yanmar ticking over at 3400rpm the cruise speed of 15kts is a comfortable pace. At wide open throttle the hull is good for 20kts, a level of performance which is comforting to have on tap when a storm is approaching and the next anchorage needs to be reached in a hurry. Interestingly, at the same fuel burn rate as the old engine, Sanuk is now 3kts quicker with the Yanmar in the engine room. Three knots may not sound like much but over a coastal trip where anchorages are

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 75

typically 50-60nm apart, the extra speed can reduce the time at sea by up to two hours. Having now logged 750 hours since the 2009 repower, Geoff Tickle has meticulously maintained a detailed fuel consumption log. Pottering around Moreton Bay with the dinghy in tow and the grandchildren on board, the fuel burn averages around 11 litres per hour at 9kts. On the coastal run when the throttle is opened up and the hull speed is lifted to 15kts the fuel consumption averages just 15 litres per hour. The real test of fuel consumption came in 2012 when Geoff and Brenda Tickle embarked on a three month cruise north. Over the journey they travelled approximately 800nm and used 2200 litres of fuel while clocking up exactly 100 hours on the Yanmar 6LPA-STP2. Cruising speed was between 12-15kts depending on the currents. With all the data computed the fuel burn equates to 2.75 litres per nautical mile or 22 litres per hour. Geoff rates this as ‘very economical’ for a 36ft boat weighing around 10 tonnes and covering an extended voyage at this speed. It also meant that each anchorage along the coast could be reached in a weather window of five to six hours. “I think that you would be hard pressed to find a more economical combination than the Fairway 36 hull powered by a Yanmar diesel engine.” “When at sea, engine reliability is the most important “sea-safety factor,” said Geoff Tickle. “As a dedicated Yanmar person, I have seen first-hand that Yanmar is definitely the way to go.”

76 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

RUBBER CLAMP MOUNTS ANYWHERE, GRIPS UP TO 191mm

V

essels of all sizes have an endless assortment of equipment that needs to be stowed. For items that require ready access, there’s Quick Fist from Davis Instruments. Offered in two sizes, these patented devices secure a wide range of gear and mount almost anywhere, inside or out. Quick Fists are manufactured from heavy-duty, UV-resistant, transportation-grade rubber. Internal ridges hold equipment in place, and offer a wide range of clamping diameters and tensions. They’re made to withstand extreme temperatures without becoming stiff and inoperable in the cold, or soft and loose in the heat. Non-conductive, they won’t rust or corrode. Sold as a pair, the standard Quick Fist easily mounts with one #10 bolt or screw through the 22mm W x 70mm L base. It will hold objects from 13mm to 64mm in diameter, and up to 10kg. For heavier items, multiple units can be used. It’s perfect for everything from a flashlight to coiled line. Super Quick Fist is sold individually, and is designed for larger and heavier items like fire extinguishers, and oxygen and CO2 cylinders—anything from 64mm to 191mm in diameter and up to 23kgs. It installs with three #10 bolts or screws through its 22mm W x 152mm L base. www.davisnet.com

? Y E V R U S NEED A Pre-purchase inspections on all types of craft carried out by registered surveyor and shipright.

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If your requirements cover any of the following: • Assessing the condition of a vessel • Assessing the value of a vessel • Consideration whether to purchase a vessel • Assessment of a vessel for insurance purposes

the following call or email to te ita es h t o Please do n ll Terry Budde [email protected] e d d u yb rr te 4 7 8 7 4 ys.com 0414 3 liawidesurve www.austra Based Gold Coast, Will travel anywhere, anytime

BoatCraft Pacific 46 Chetwynd St, Loganholme, Qld 4129

[email protected] p: 07 3806 1944

www.boatcraft.com.au AGENTS AROUND AUSTRALIA australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 77

RIPPLE...

THE PERFECT TENDER

SPIRITED DESIGNS have had amazing success with this range of tender designs with over 50 sold. These panel designed catamaran tenders are ideal DIY projects for entry-level amateur builders. Ordering the kit package is the easiest way to start however there is also an option to build off the plans. This allows the customer to choose their desired material and source it at their own pace. The budget is also addressed due to the various material choices; beginning with Gaboon plywood at the more affordable end, plain foam core or Duflex panel which comes at a higher cost premium. 78 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

B

eing of a catamaran design, the tunnel that runs through the centre of the boat acts as a long type of bench seat which can either be straddled or passengers can sit facing outboard. The twin hulls provide plenty of buoyancy and stability when loaded. They also produce a very comfortable ride through chop with the fine entry bows cutting through cleanly and the hull running on the tunnel between the hulls. Although the hull shape is designed for planing it is also very efficient at slower speeds off the plane. Many of these boats are being used for day boats exploring waterways or camping trips away. Spirited Designs can also offer a fully-built version of these designs which has become a regular occurrence since their release. Classed as ‘special’ projects these are usually for the discerning buyer wanting a unique customised product. These projects are commonly optioned up with extras built into the boat. One of the latest examples is a 3.2m Ripple built from the Duflex Divinycell kit for maximum weight saving with modified seating, in-built fuel tank, Beachmaster transom wheels, davit lifting points, composite built in rod-holders and other optional features. Another one of the projects was a 4.2m Ripple customised for wheelchair access and use. This had a self-draining deck with a side steering console. The range begins at 2m through to 4.2m with popular sizes in between. Spirited Designs can also custom-design an existing model or design a new one to suit specific requirements. Several customers have built one of these tenders as a trial for building the mothership. It’s probably fair to say that if building the tender is too difficult then don’t even contemplate the big boat! Whether the builder is working from a kit or plans, the assembly process is the same. For each material option once the hull panels are ready for fitting, the build frame is set up and the panels are fastened to it with temporary screws. The chines are then taped with epoxy as the structural connection before fairing commences. If building with plywood then it is recommended to sheath the hull exterior with a light woven fibreglass cloth for wear and tear which would be done prior to fairing. Spirited Designs supply building support with either the kit or the plans for any assistance required during the project. For more information about the Ripple designs or their full range, check out: www.spiriteddesigns.com.au australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 79

– FOR SALE – NIS 18 MK2

LIVE ABOARD CAPABLE 40’ x 8’ x 1’ DRAFT

RIVER CRUISER

! D L SO

Mary Rose 2

Mary Rose 2 was designed and built by Percy Collom in the late 90’s for extended family cruising from the lower lakes in South Australia to Morgan and beyond. She sleeps six easily in comfort and privacy. She has two enclosed heads one of which could be easily turned into shower facilities. Asking Price: $39,000

Didi Philippe loves his Mk2 NIS18 Turbo Ketch Didi so much he’s gone out and bought an NIS NIS29. So now Didi is for sale. Very well built, only only 4 years or so old, good everything. Philippe is a tough guy who feels no need for comfy mattresses in the 1/4 berth or the vee berth. Unless you are another Philippe, you will need to add soft furnishing. Otherwise this is a really well kitted, well built, well sorted kit built Mk2 NIS18, ready to cruise and extend the NIS lore wherever she goes. Change your life. The future you, will thank you, for this! Curious? Learn more at ‘Boats For Sale’ Robert Ayliffe

Robert Ayliffe – 0428 817 464

BACARLI IS FOR SALE!

0428 817 464 www.straydogboatworks.com

HOT! NIS 23, Route 66 IS FOR SALE!

All packed up! After winning for the second time the Geelong Wooden Boat Festivals 2016 Modern Wooden Boat Race against all comers. The fabulous 57’ Canoe sterned Bacarli has been owned and lovingly cared for by a prominent Adelaide family since 1986. Built In 1950 at Blunt’s Boat Yard in Williamstown, Victoria, Bacarli has cruised between Queensland, Victoria and South Australia. The spacious comfortable Bacarli is now ready to safely carry another family, to horizons only limited by imagination. She draws a bit over 2m, is capable of being sailed by one fit person, but is best suited to a crew of one or two. Her space on deck, and her space below is palatial, especially in the saloon/galley area. Now, Bacarli is looking for a new and adventurous owner who is capable of getting the best from her, and in return giving her the ongoing love that such a beautiful mistress of the sea deserves. Moored in Adelaide. Ready to go, now.

Contact Robert ‘boats for sale’ straydogboatworks.com 0428 817 464

80 australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats

Corio Bay’s Rob Ballard, as then president of the of the Victorian Trailer Sailor Association and wife and sailing partner Annis were always going to be discriminating clients. Knew about, then built to professional standards their state of the art Mk2 NIS 23 Route 66 at their home in suburban Geelong Now, time and tide have caused a rethink, and as a consequence, Route 66, the bright blue race winner from Corio Bay, is now for sale. There are bragging rights with Route 66. She bristles with all the good gear. Super lightweight carbon masts and booms. Rapid low stress rigging and packing up with the patent pending tabernacles system. All sail control within the cockpit. A comfortable interior for two, who like each other, for extended cruising. Self steering just by setting the sheets. A hull shape that eats the square waves of Port Phillip Bay, the Mornington Peninsula and Bass Strait and stays remarkably dry while doing it. Contact: Robert Ayliffe 0428 817 464 ww.straydogboatworks.com

AUS16230

www.hqhh.de 11/2016

Real teamwork!

As we sail into 2017, all the crew at Pantaenius are on deck to make your boating safe and enjoyable.

Sydney · Phone +61-(0)2 - 9936 1670 pantaenius.com.au

australasian amateur boatbuilder and kitboats 81

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