Arvind textiles internship report
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arvind textile report...
Description
Summer Textile Internship
DECLARATION We Sakshi kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh hereby declare that the internship project report titled “Summer Textile Internship”, submitted towards the fulfillment of two weeks internship is our original work and no part of the project has been copied from any other reports or any other work carried by someone else which has been submitted for any other degree or award. However, any material taken from any other published source has been suitably referred and acknowledged at various spaces. (__________________) Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi NAME: Sakhi Kaul Sohini Ali Sunistha Singh BATCH: 2013-17. DATE: 25th May 2015 – 06th June 2015. PLACE: Arvind Textile Mills, Santej, Ahmedabad, Gujrat, India – 380015.
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that the Internship Project titled “Summer Textile Internship”, submitted towards the partial fulfillment of the Bachelors in Fashion Technology NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship by Sakshi Kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh is their original work under my guidance and the results are based on the research done by them.
(___________________) Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi
DATE: PLACE:
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We are grateful to NIFT for providing us an opportunity to work on our “Summer Textile Internship”. We express our whole hearted thanks to our Mentor Ms.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Subhalakshmi Kropi for her encouragement and moral support in organizing our work and giving us valuable information for making it presentable. We are indebted to Mr. Kabir Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and Mr. Rajesh Tiwari(Weaving Department Supervisor), who guided and supervised us throughout this study. We have no words to express our gratitude towards them. We are also thankful to Ms. Shivangi Seth (Human Resource Department) for providing us the details of conducting the research from its inception. We will be failing in our duty if we do not mention the name of our Director Prof. V Shivalingam and other faculty members for their help in our Internship Project. Lastly, we are also obliged to our family and friends for providing us valuable suggestions.
1. INTRODUCTION 1.1. TEXTILE INDUSTRY
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles. Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments, or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness. Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing. Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes on the learning of the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the major processes of procuring raw material, spinning, weaving or knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing, testing and quality control measures. The internship revolves around observing the functioning and processing at a Textile Manufacturing Unit. It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process parameters, working conditions, process flow and other important criteria in the manufacturing process. It is also important to observe the machinery details, safety measures, and productivity, testing and quality criteria. We were to understand the step-wise breakdown of all the process, how they are carried and what are the start and endproduct at each of these steps.
1.2. INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY Indian textile industry and market size Textiles sector contributes to 14 per cent of industrial production. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship 4 per cent of national GDP. 10.63 per cent of country's export earnings. • MARKET SIZE India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the Current 4% to around 7% over the next three-years • GROWTH RATE OF ARVIND LIMITED 3-4 percent during the last six decade 9-10 percent during last five year • SCOPE OF RIVALRY Raymond India Welspun India ltd Alok Industries Gokaldas Exports Arvee Industries Bharat Vijay mills
Fig 1.1. Arvind ltd. Revenue composition
1.3. OBJECTIVE OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship The objective of our textile internship at Arvind Limited was to understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purposes. Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machinery features, machine and material process parameters available in detail in the areas as mentioned below. We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand during our internship: Spinning Section Weaving Section Dyeing Section Quality Assurance Section Environmental Factors
1.4. COMPANY OVERVIEW NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
Date of Establishment Revenue Market Cap Corporate Address
1931 604.01 ( USD in Millions ) 18037.2105231 ( Rs. in Millions ) Naroda Road, , Ahmedabad-380025, Gujarat www.arvindmills.com
Management Details
Chairperson - Sanjay S Lalbhai MD - Sanjay S Lalbhai Directors – Bakul Dholakia, G M Yadwadkar, Jayesh K Shah, K M Jayarao, KulinLalbhai, Munesh Khanna, PrabhakarChavan, Prabhakar,Dalal, PunitLalbhai, R V Bhimani, R W Khanna, RenukaRamanath, S R Rao, Sanjay S Lalbhai,Sudhir Mehta, TarunSheth
Business Operation
Textile
Company Secretary
R V Bhimani
Bankers
ABN Amro Bank, Axis Bank , Bank of Baroda, Canara Bank , EXIM Bank, HDFC Bank, ICICI Bank, Standard Chartered Bank, State Bank of Hyderabad, State Bank of India, State Bank of Patiala, UCO Bank
Auditors
Sorab S Engineer & Co
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
1.5. COMPANY PROFILE The Arvind Ltd. was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931. With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative. The Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million). Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on selection of core products. Fore vision and Technology has made Arvind one of the top three producers of Denim in the world, and the most diversified conglomerates in the world. Arvind is already making its presence felt in Shirting’s, Knits and Khakis fabrics apart from being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over. Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 10,000 tons. Apart from the basic knitting capabilities, Arvind has mastered specialty knitting techniques such as yarn-dyed auto stripers, jacquards, and stretch fabric. The knits vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 6500 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 3500 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabric and offer specialty finishes like mercerization, singing and various forms of brushing and peaching. The department also boasts of a state-ofthe art print shop equipped with fully automatic rotary screen printing technique.
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Summer Textile Internship 1.5.1. VISION AND VALUES The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and demographics. To serve that end, the corporate vision for Arvind states: ‘We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing enriching and inspiring lifestyle solutions’.
1.5.2.
MILESTONES
1931 -The inception of Arvind Mills at the hands of three brothers – Kastur bhai, Narottam bhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai. 1934 - Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country. 1980 - Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy – ‘Reno vision’, points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a highquality premium niche market. 1987-88 - Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for leisure and Denim for fashion wear. 1991 - Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world. 1997 - India’s largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set up at Santej. 2005 - Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering garment packages to reputed national and international customers. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship 2007 - Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by establishing Mega Mart – One of India’s largest value retail chains. 2010 - Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the company’s best fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof.
Arvind launches its first major Real Estate projects.
Arvind becomes one of India’s largest producers of fire protection fabrics.
2012 – Joint venture with PD Group, Germany, for manufacture of glass fabrics. 2014 – Joint venture with PVH Corp for Calvin Klein Businesses in India. Launches Formal suits with Goodhill Corporation Limited of Japan. 2014 – Joint venture with OG Corp, Japan, for manufacture and sale of non-woven fabrics, project being spearheaded by Dr. Kunal Shah. 2014 – Forayed into the E-commerce segment with custom clothing brand 'Creyate'.
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Summer Textile Internship
1.5.3.
ARVIND TODAY
Arvind has a strong focus on Research and Development for process improvement, cost reduction and new product development. This is evident in the fact that Arvind continuously modifies its production process to enhance flexibility on the use of various types and quality of cotton. State-of-the-art technology and equipment have made Arvind one of the leading producers of denim in the world. This cutting edge position comes to Arvind courtesy technologies such as Open-end Spinning, Foam Finishing, Mercerizing, Slasher-dyeing, Rope-dyeing, Air-Jet, Projectile and Wet Finishing. It’s only natural that Arvind quality fabrics are in high demand in the markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and Asia Pacific.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
Fig. 1.2 Arvind
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Fig. 1.3
1.5.4.
PRODUCTION FLOW CHART ARVIND LIMITED
Managing Director (SANJAY LALBHAI)
Human Resource Departme
Store s
Exports &
Spinnin g
Administratio n and
Quality Assuranc
Weavin
Productio
Garment Packages Divisions
Processin g& Finishing
Engineerin
Order Management &
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
Order Management Sampling
Purchases
Administration
Production
Accounts
Inspection
Banking
Documentation Invoicing
ISO Co-ordination
1.6. COMPANY PROCESS FLOW The customer and the marketing department communicate with each other. The marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and then communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance and Product Planning and Control (PPC) who decide on the various guidelines and the time required to execute the order. These guidelines are then communicated to the plant head who conveys them to the various departments according to the guidelines and instructions. The fabric is then sent to the fabric inspection and then to the Central Quality Assurance, who sends it to folding and dispatch from where other financial activities follow.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
Fig 1.4 Company Process Flow
1.7. DENIM The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in their success. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver Fig 1.3 many firsts in the Fig international markets. All their products are designed and 1.5 of expert design inputs coming from their designers based out modeled on the basis
of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality. Some Examples:
Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim Organic, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and Sustainable denim
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Summer Textile Internship The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Our labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.
1.8. KNITS Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and Figoffers 1.6 specialty finishes like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching. Basic knits: Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric Fibres: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish. Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks
1.9. WOVEN (SHIRTING)
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Summer Textile Internship Their expertise in new age shirting fabric
and
bottom
weights
is
unparalleled. Their shirting fabrics have
consistently
premium
in
the
fetched local
a and
international markets. Their state of the art facility is capable of Fig 1.7
producing a total of 65 million
meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This capacity is set to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year. They have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product innovation and fashion forecasts for the Fig 1.4
domestic and international markets. They are the largest yardage and sampling mill in India. Their spinning setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like compacts, slubs, singed yarn etc. Their weaving capabilities include high-speed Airjet looms and Rapier looms. Their finishing capabilities include continuous bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization,Fig and machinery for various chemical and mechanical finishes.
1.8
A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities are also in place.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship In addition to cotton they now work with a variety of fibres including Modal, Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon. They are host to India’s first Ammonia Mercerization Plant They use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle fibres like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose Over the years, therein-house R&D department has successfully developed and perfected a number of finishes adding value to their products and uniqueness to their range. Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron, Stain Repellent, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc. Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium Their product range is certified by Oekotex, their processes are certified by GOTS for producing Organic products, they are certified producers of Lycra and Teflon based varieties, while their laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.
1.10. Customers
Fig 1.9
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
Gap Inc – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver Jeans – Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit – S.Oliver – Mexx – Sisley – Benetton – Coin Own Brands Mainstream Excalibur Gant Flying Machine
Licensened Brands Bridge to Luxury U.S.A. 1949 Energie’
Popular
Premium
Ruf & Tuf New Port University
USPA Arrow Izod
Joint Venture Brands
Popular
Bridge to Luxury Tommy Hilfiger
Cherokee Mossimo
Premium Lee Wrangler
1.11. PRODUCTION PLANNING CONTROL The production planning team need to coherently work on deciding whether the capacity of the plant is enough to fulfil the order in the given lead time. Usually the lead time for any particular order is 50 to 55 days, including all quality checks inspection etc. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship The thumb rule for calculation of lead time: Pre- spinning procedures: 3 days Spinning: 15-20 days Warping and dyeing- 3 days For every weaving cycle- 3 to 4 days(weaving cycles depend on the order qty and above mentioned factors) Usually for one order about 8 to 10 weaving cycles required Finishing processes- 1 day for each process, if not covered in the integrated finish processing machine Inspection 2 to 3 days Washing 2 to 3 days
1.11.1. RAW MATERIAL Cotton 100 kilo cotton = 88 kilo of yarn(for combed yarn) (75% yarn realisation) Loss: 1 % sizing, 2.3 to 2.5 % weaving, 1% warping (total 4 to 4.5%)
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
SPINNING SECTION
2. SPINNING SECTION “To produce quality yarns for world class shirtings with optimum cost within stipulated time frame through continuous improvement.” In Arvind open end spinning process is carried out. They have two separate lines of manufacturing, for cotton and synthetic fibers. Each line has the same machines in the same amount.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
2.1. LAYOUT OF THE SPINNING SECTION
Fig. 2.1 Spinning 2.2. RAW MATERIAL section layout
2.2.1. STORAGE Bales are bought and stored into the cotton godown at the shirting section. Weight of the bale (comes in packages of 220 to 250 kg) NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
Storage Area: 1500-2000 sq. M Capacity: 4000-6000 bales
2.2.2. VARIETY OF COTTON FOR SHIRTING DIVISION Pakistan cotton Bani Brahma Maharashtra baby cotton American cotton Recycle cotton Gizza-76, 45 & 88(Egyptian) Australian ELS Cotton in Arvind Mills is mainly imported from Pakistan, Turkey, U.S.A., Australia, Egypt and China.
FLOW ORDE R 1.
SECTION/FLOW
OUTPUT
FUNCTION
BLOW ROOM
Cotton tuft
Opening, cleaning and blending
2.
CARD
Sliver
Individualization of fibre, neps removal and sliver preparation
3.
PRE DEFRAME
Breaker sliver
Parallisation and improvement in
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship sliver 4.
UNILAP
Comber lap
To prepare lap sheet suitable for combing
5.
COMBER
Combed sliver
Short fibre individualization preparation
6.
POST FRAME
DRAW Finisher sliver
7.
SPEED FRAME
Roving bobbin
and
removal, sliver
Parallisation and improvement in sliver quality (by mass variation) To prepare a suitable roving for ring frame by inserting twist
Yarn
To produce yarn on smaller package
RANDOM WINDING
Cleared yarn
To prepare bigger package after removing faults
10.
ASSEMBLY WINDING
Assembled yarn
To assemble the yarn
11.
TFO
Double yarn
To impart twist in assembled yarn and produce bigger package
12.
SINGEING
Singed yarn
To remove protruding fibres on the surface
RING FRAME
8. 9.
Table 1. Flow Order of Spinning Section
2.3. TRUTZSCHLER BLOW ROOM PROCESSES The basic purpose of blow room is to supply small, clean homogeneously blended fibre tufts, if more than one variety of fibre is used to carding machine without increasing fibre rupture, fibre neps, and broken seed particles and without removing more good fibres.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship The above is achieved by the following processes in the blow room: Pre-opening Pre-cleaning Mixing or Blending Fine Opening 2-4% of the fibre is removed in the blow room section as waste. Feeding is done by the lattice feeding system in the blow room. Humidity in the blow room should be around R.H. – 65% to 75%.
VARIATION: Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%. If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected.
Lap Parameters: Count 8s - 10s 10s – 12s 15s – 20s 24s
Weight 20.0 kg 16.5 kg 20.5 kg 20.0 kg
Length 36 yards 30 yards 38 yards 40 yards
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship
The blow room is divided into two sections: Open end line ( for pure cotton fibre) Vertex line ( for manmade/ synthetic fibre)
Production capacity (at 85% efficiency) Weight of lap produced – 1700 kg/8hr/line Length of lap produced – 4000 yards/8hr/line
Total production capacity of the unit – 10 ton Time taken to produce one lap – approx 4 – 6 min. No. Of laps produced per hour – approx. 12
2.3.1. PRE-OPENING Machine used: GBR-II Make- Trutzschler (Germany) 400 kg/hour
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship The tuft size in the missing should be as small as possible. Normally it should be less than 10 grams.
Since this machine does not take care of long term blending, mixing should be done properly to maintain the homogenous blending
This machine is not meant to remove trash , hence the fibre loss should also be less Trash removal in this machine will result in breaking the seeds, which is very difficult to remove It is easier to remove the bigger trash than the smaller trash, therefore enough care should be taken to avoid breaking the trash particles This machine is just to open the tufts into small sizes so that cleaning becomes easier in the next machines. The fibre tuft size from this machine should be preferably around 100 to 200 milligrams. If tuft size is small, removing trash particles becomes easier, because of large surface area
2.3.2. PRE-CLEANING Machine used: Axiflow Cleaner Machine make: Trutzschler (Germany) NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Model: 52-2502 Pressure- 50-75 Bar Pre-cleaning should be gentle. Since removing finer trash particles is difficult, seeds and bigger trash particles should not be broken. Finer trash particles require severe treatment in Fine openers. This will lead to fibre damage and more nep generation. Therefore, pre-cleaning should be as gentle as possible and no compromise on this. If pre-opening and pre-cleaning are done properly, consistency in trash removal by fine openers is assured. Dust removal should be started in this machine. Enough care should be taken remove dust in this process.
The fibre treatment in this machine is very gentle because the fibres are not gripped by the feed roller during beating.
Fibre tufts treated by the pin beater when it is carried by air medium All heavy trash particles fall down before it is broken Cleaning efficiency of this machine is very high in the blow room line
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Mostly all heavy seeds( full seeds) fall in this machine without any problem Around 50 Pascal suction pressure should be maintained in the waste chamber for better cleaning efficiency Beater speed, air velocity through the machine, grid bar setting and gap between grid bars will affect the cleaning efficiency Higher the cleaning efficiency, higher the good fibre loss, higher the nep generation and higher the fibre rupture The optimum cleaning means maximum cleaning performance, minimum loss of good fibres, a high degree of fibre preservation and minimum nep generation.
2.4. BLENDING PROCESS
Fig. 2.2 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back by roll and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to next process. It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber quality. MACHINE USED: BLENDOMAT -TRUETZSCHLER Model Bale Layout No Of Bales Weight Of Bales Mode Of Bale Laying Material In Process
BDT/019/2300 BOTH SIDES (2 ROWS) 50-60 110-167 kgs MANUAL COTTON WITH IMPURITIES
It helps to maintain the homogeneity of the long term blending. Cotton is opened gently without recycling as it is done in manual bale openers. With the latest automatic bale opening machines, the tuft size can be as small as 50 to 100 grams without rupturing the fibres. The opening roller speed should be around 1500 to 1800 rpm. the depth of penetration of the opening should be as minimum as possible for better quality. It is better to use this machine with one mixing or maximum two mixing at the same. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship If the production per feeding machine is less than 150 kgs, then four mixings can be recommended.
2.5. OPENING PROCESS
Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls. Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to another type of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to hopper. The fiber is mixed and passed to an opener, cylinders with protruding fingers open up the limp and free the trash. The kind and number of cylinders or beaters, employed depend upon the type of cotton that is being processed. As the cotton is opened, trash falls through a series of grid bars.
Fig. 2.3
MACHINE USED: GBR COTTON OPENER NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Model No Opening Speed Tuft Size Opening Roller Speed No. Of Mixings No. Of Chambers Power Consumption
GBR 400 Kg/Hr 50-100 gms 1500-1800 rpm 2 8 4.95 W
2.6. CARDING PROCESS Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING. The work is done by carding machine. The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn o rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers, and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver. Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons serviceable for inexpensive cotton fabrics.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17) Fig.
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Summer Textile Internship
STEPS: The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll (covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner bars and gives it up to large cylinder which passes between the thousands of fine wires on surface of cylinder and on flats. The cotton follows large cylinder to doffer cylinder, which remove lint from large cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy web that passes through condenser rolls, coiler head, and then into can. The sliver may be passed from one can to combing for further removal of foreign matter and parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing. Fig. 2.5
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Make Model No Of Machines Card Cleaning Efficiency Temperature Humidity Pressure Production Front Delivery Speed
TRUTZSCHLER DK 803 14 62-67% 33.3 C 56.5% 325 Pascal 80 Kgs/Hr 210.240 Min
2.7. DRAWING PROCESS The combining of several fibers for the drawing, or drafting, process eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were pulling through singly. The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. This action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing longer and thinner slivers. After several Fig. 2.6
stages
of
drawing
out,
the
condensed sliver is taken to the slubber,
where rollers similar to those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the slubbing is passed to the spindles, where it is given its first twist and is then wound on bobbins.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17) Fig. 2.7
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STEPS: Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery. The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now ready for roving frames.
2.8. COMBING PROCESS When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out and completely separated out from the longer fibers. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17) Fig. 2.8
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Fig. 2.7
The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25% of the original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are made from combed yarns or combed yarns. MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS: Make Model No Production Capacity Speed
LAKSHMI LK69 2.1 TONS/DAY 600 M
2.9. SPINNING PROCESS The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired. Spinning machines are of two types; ring NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship frame and mule frame. The ring frame is faster process, but produces a relatively coarse yarn. for very fine yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame is required because of its slow, intermittent operation. The ring frame, which is general in use, is more suitable for the manufacture of Fig. 2.9
cotton yarns in mass production. Its
hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and its constant
spinning
action
provide
a
fast
operation.
The ring
spinning
frame completes the manufacture of yarn (1) by drawing out the roving (2) by inserting twist, and (3) by winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one operation. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be wound on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving. STEPS: The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer. From Fig.between 2.9 bobbin roving is fed set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its final
desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered by rolls.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17) Fig. 2.10
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MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS: Make
ZINSER
Model
351
Application Area Count Range
STAPLE FIBRES UPTO 60mm 167 – 4 TEX
Twist Range
100-3500 t/M
No Of Spindles
240-1680
Spindles Speed
25000 rpm
Ring Diameter
36-54m
2.10. OPEN END SPINNING In open end spinning, the fibre supply is reduced, as far as possible, to individual fibres, which are then carried forward on an air-stream as free fibres. This permits internal stresses to be relaxed & gives rise to the term “free fibre spinning”. These fibres are then progressively attached to the tail or “open end” of already formed NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship rotating yarn. This enables twist to be imparted by rotation of the yarn end. Thus the continuously formed yarn has only to be withdrawn & taken up on a cross-wound package.
2.10.1.
EFFICIENCY IN
SPINNING DEPARTMENT:
Fig. 2.11
Open end: 85 to 90% Draw frame: 85 to 90% Auto doffing system: 88% Manual doffing system: 75% Comber: 93% Carding: 87% 2.10.2.
PRODUCTION CAPACITY OF OPEN END SPINNING
6700 kg of 10s yarn can be produced per machine per day. Machines work 24 hours a day, stopping only when faulty or for maintenance.
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2.11. WINDING Machine used: Auto Coner No. 1 In this stage the cops are winded into suitable cheeses and cones. This can be done both manually and automatically. Before final packing and dispatching, proper conditioning is done to the yarns. For this the Palletising machine is used. The lustre is added by spraying very, mild dew drops every two hours. This final cone weighs around 1.5 kilograms. Packing is done in gunny bags each carrying 40 cones and having an entire weight of 60 kilograms.
2.12. FREQUENTLY FACED PROBLEMS Several defects in the yarn lead to a decrease in the production, and slows down the manufacturing process, since these defects have to be remedied during production. These defects are length variation, thick and thin, moiré and count variation. How these problems can be overcome? Machines with quality stops (sensors) are used to overcome these defects. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Safety precautions observed Fire extinguisher Medical centre with Ambulance Water hose pipe Boots for personal safety First aid box
WEAVING SECTION
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3. WEAVING SECTION 3.1. PROCESS FLOW IN THE WEAVING UNIT
The warp beams are received from Fig. the 3.1 warping department, which is situated inside the main plant. The transportation between the warping and weaving department is accomplished by the means of warp beam trolleys and trucks. Once the warp beams reach the loom shed, individual warp threads are needled through the heald eyes manually (drawing), hence preparing a beam for loading on to a loom. All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The warp threads are passed through eyelets on the heald. Two operators sit facing each other, across the frame and the operator facing NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship the reed passes a hooked needle through the heald eyes and drop wires. The needle hook is then exposed to the second operator on the other side of the frame; who selects the correct yarn in its proper order and puts it on the hook so that when the needle is pulled, the yarn is threaded through the two loom parts. This process is carried out in an area right behind the main loom shed. The yarns are then threaded through the reed
dents
as
required by the reed plan (denting). The Fig. 3.2
reed is like a comb and its purpose is to control separation
the of
the
Fig. 3.2
warp threads. Once the denting is complete, the beam is loaded as per the requirement. Once the already loaded warp beam is exhausted, the new one can be tied on to it by the means of manual knotting. After this the process of weaving can be resumed in about 2 hours.
3.2. TYPES OF LOOMS The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit at Santej houses 48 weaving looms, evenly distributed between two makes that is 24 of each, Toyota E Shed and Picanol Gammax. Both the looms can be bifurcated further on the basis of the number of heald frames and/or colored wefts which they can accommodate. Listed below is the information regarding the looms on the basis of their types and sub-types.
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No of Looms 24 24
Loom Type Toyota E Shed (Airjet Loom) Picanol Gammax (Rapier Loom)
Type Toyota E Shed (Airjet Looms) PicanolGammax (Rapier Looms)
Number of Looms 6 18 8 16
Number of Colored Weft 6 4 8 6
Number of Heald Frames 16 16 24 20
Fig 3.3.
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3.2.1. Toyota E Shed (JAT 710) As the production begins, the pre winder is released which is responsible for the release of the filling yarn in the main nozzle. On the other end, a catch cord catches the weft. The yarn is detached from the pre winder but the end from the pre winder is held
at
insertion. This
Fig. 3.4 Toyota E Shed (JAT is followed710) by the beat-up
the machine end for the next motion, after which shedding and picking
take place for the next pick.
3.2.2.
Picanol Gammax
PicanolGamMax is a double rapier loom. It is equipped with a weft presenter. The color and weave pattern are controlled
by
a
microprocessor. A light weight gripper carries the weft yarn from one selvedge to another using free flight system. The loom makes use ofFig. electronic selvedge system. 3.5 Picanol Gammax NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Listed below are the specifications of both the looms against the respective parameters.
Type of Loom RPM(for the main shaft) WIR Production Efficiency(targeted) Usage
Toyota E Shed Airjet Loom 1,250 2,650 m/min 6500m/day 87% For easier designs
Gammax Double Rapier Loom 600 1160 m/min 4000m/day 85% For complex designs
Attachments
Dobby
Dobby
Machine Width
1900mm
2200 mm
TOYOTA E SHED
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PICANOL GAMMAX
WEAVING SECTION
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4. WEAVING PREPARATORY
Machines Used Capacity No. of Machines
Muruta 50 spindles 10
Mahavir 120 spindles 3
4.1. 4.1.
Re-Winding The final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perfora ted bobbins to form soft cheeses that will be sent for winding. According to number of packages required for sectional warping. The Murata rewinding machines have a NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship capacity of 50 spindles and they are 10 in total. 2-3 Local Mahavir machines can hold 120 spindles at once. A constant length of yarn is wound on all packages.
4.2. Sectional warping
Fig. 4.1
The pattern for a fabric requires yarn of specific length, number and color. These are wound on the warp beam in this section. A creel of capacity 720 cones holds the
yarns.
through
a
These leasing
are
drawn
reed
and
warping reed and the emerging pattern wound on warping drum and finally on warping beam. There are 8 rows on the creel, to the warp pattern.
Fig. 4.2
which holds the yarns according
For shirting, the pattern is placed alternately, i.e. 13572468 upwards. Each row is used as layer for leasing. 7 lease are introduced in the beginning of every section NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship and a 50% lease towards the end. The 7 lease help in sizing to separate layers in order prevent sticking together. 50% leasing helps in drawing. Fig. 4.2
Maker VAMATEX BENNINGER Model No. VM 108 BEN-ERGOTRONIC Drum Width 2500mm 2500mm Maximum Warping Speed 800m/min 800m/min Maximum Beaming Speed 150m/min 150m/min For precise control high speed sensor are provided.
4.2.1.
Stop motion
Stop motion for Picanol Gammax Rapier looms Warp stop motion (castellated bar) When the warp beam is taken to the loom for gaiting of warp, after being threaded through drop pins, heald eye and reed dents, the drop pins are threaded on to the slide bar. In case of a thread break, the corresponding drop pin falls down the free movement of the slider and slide bar is arrested thereby stopping the loom. Automatic pick finding In case of a broken pick the machine stops and only the harness frames are brought in motion –automatically – so as to free the broken pick, without the reed touching the beat-up line.
Stop motion for Toyota E Shed JAT 710
Electronic warp stop motion Leno-selvage & waste-selvage break stop motion Reflecting type weft detector (double feeler) LED signal lamp Light Colour
Implication
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Summer Textile Internship Yellow light blinking Yellow and red light blinking Red light Red light blinking when machine is working Blue light blinking
Weft thread breakage Shut down via emergency switch Mechanical fault Electronic projectile detector or weft detector is switched off Warp thread breakage
4.3. Fabric designing Arvind handles weaving consignments from most of the leading brands in the country and its in-house brands. The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit produces Shirting fabric in various contemporary designs such as solids, stripes and plaid. The designing of the fabric for in-house brands is carried out by the Textile Design Department. Henceforth, all the fabrics follow a common route namely, Pre Production Planning.
4.4. Objectives of Pre-Production Planning Production Method: The selection of the production method is dictated by the Pre Production Committee, keeping in mind the feasibility of the design and efficiency and ability of the machines available. Determination of Details: Assessment of the fabric in question to establish necessary constants of the weave plan such as Ends per Inch, Picks per Inch, pegplan, drawing, warping section, weave etc.
4.5. Safety measures Ear plugs: Aloom shed is bound to have extremely high levels of noise due to the constant beat-up motion, clanking of the heald shafts, shuttle (for NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship shuttle looms) etc. Hence, it is absolutely mandatory for the operator to be equipped with ear plugs to prevent permanent damage to his health. Shoes: To move around in the loom shed, it is absolutely imperative to cover one’s feet thereby ensuring physical safety. Half sleeve clothes: Working with a loom involves a lot of activity near the weft presenters warp thread, machine parts etc. Therefore it is advisable to wear half sleeved clothes and avoid any sort of entanglements and accidents, in extension. Cover moving machine parts: As far as possible, it is ensured that all the moving machine parts are covered. Such as protection guard over take-up rollers in case of a Picanol Gammax loom.
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4.6.
Weaving Machine Details:
MACHINE
NO. OF M/C
MAXIMUM PRODUCTION COLOR PER DAY WEFT YARN
FEATURES
Toyota Air-jet weaving loom type
24
6 M/C – 6 18 M/C – 4
6500 meter
Working width 3400mm, 6 and colours, positive electronic STAUBLI dobby type 2861, up to 16 shafts, max RPM =800, 380V-50Hz, 1 reed.
PINACOL rapier Looms type GamMax model
24
4
400 metre
Working width 3600mm, 4 colours, max RPM = 550, positive electronic STAUBLI dobby type 2861with preequipped for batching motion but without the batcher.
ECGI Electric suction machine
4
-
-
To suck the loose flying li dust particles to prevent it from sticking to the machines and fabric.
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4.7. Product defects Broken pattern: Instances of wrong drawing of thread in a colour pattern or wrong picking lead to non-continuity of a weave/design/pattern. Double end: Taking more ends in the heald eye leads to weaving of two or more ends as one. Float: Improper shedding, slack heald shafts etc. lead to improper interlacement of warp and weft threads over a certain area. Gout: Foreign matter (such as lint or waste) accidentally gets woven into the fabric. Hole, Cut or Tear: These occur for a variety of reason and end up rupturing the fabric. Missing ends: Despite being equipped with warp stop motions, this defect is observed due to reasons such as dirty electro bars and operator’s inattentiveness.
4.8. Problem faced In weaving room, relative humidity, has a great impact on the performance of the looms. The optimal level of temperature and humidity over the machines, i.e. the warp, is generally not reached, because the sources of heat within the weaving machine disturb the climatic condition. Numerous yarn breaks are caused by the dust, lint and fiber
Fig. 4.3 Removal of extra
accumulation. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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PROCESSING SECTION
5. PROCESSING UNIT 5.1. OBJECTIVE
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Summer Textile Internship The aim of preparatory wet processing is to treat the goods by standard procedures so that they are brought to a state in which they can be dyed, printed and finished without showing any fault on fabric. 5.2.
GREY FABRIC INSPECTION
In Arvind mills Grey fabric inspection is done through the 4 point system. Length of defect 3 inches or less More than 3 inches but not more than 6 inches More than 6 inches but not more than 9 inches More than 9 inches
Demerit points 1 2 3 4
Fig. 5.1
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Fig. 5.2
5.2.1. Fabric is classified as: Grade A: less than 3 defects per 100 m Grade B: 3 - 6 defects per 100 m
Grade C: more than 6 defects per 100
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Summer Textile Internship 5.2.2. Acceptable tolerance: 28 points per 100 sq. yd. for each individual roll. 20 points per 100 sq.yd for average of rolls inspected. More defects are found in dobby weave, heavy varieties, etc
Fig. 5.3
If more than 4 points are detected/ 100m of fabric then it is reported to the weaving section and sent further for mending. 8 machines are used for initial checking but 5 machines are used for rechecking. After initial checking, the fabric is sent to the storage area.
OTHER INFORMATION There are 8 inspection machines and total 3500 metre of fabric is inspected on one machine in one day. That means total 28 thousand of fabric is inspected in one day. Also efficiency of inspection system is 90%.
5.3. MENDING The fabric is bought from the storage area for mending. After mending, the fabric is sent back to the storage area and then sent for re-checking. After mending of the fabric the fabric is sent forbatching. There are 3 mending machines in the industry.
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5.4. BATCHING After mending, fabric is sewn end to end and then batched. Spec sheets are sent to the batching in charge, wherein it is mentioned how many meters of what fabric needs to be rolled together in one package. After batching, the fabric is sent for singeing. Fig. 5.4
5.5. SINGEING Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric.
Fig. 5.5 Singeing Singeing machine used: OSTHOFF-SENGE Model – BZ/3. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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CNG is used for burning the protruding fibres, yarn ends and fuzz. Flames are applied perpendicular to the fabric. Pressure gauge in the machine controls the pressure. Maximum Speed of the machine is 100 m/min. In a shift i.e. of 8 hours, 30,000m of fabric is singed. The efficiency of the machine is 85%. A roller with brushes removes the fibres on selvedge and small protruding fibres. A suction pump takes these fibres and pumps them into an air bag. This bag needs to be changed every week. There are two burners, the machine operates at 10000c and works at 1 m/s. Special rubberized rollers are used for quenching. Fabric takes 4 seconds to traverse from burners to these quenching rollers. Till this time the temperature of the fabric lowers down to 700 C. These rollers further cool the cellulosic fibre.
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Summer Textile Internship Arvind mills Ltd uses Gas singeing due to following reasons: Efficient singeing No local cooling problems No hardness is produced on fabric surface. 5.5.1. STEPS INVOLVED IN SINGEING The fabric passes through a tension unit with guide rollers. Then fabric passes through pre-brushing unit which removes dirt/dust, lint and loose fibres from the fabric. After pre-brushing, the fabric enters into the singeing chamber. Adjustable water-cooled rollers are used to obtain different fabric/flame positions, which permit desired degree of singeing effect. A Carburettor or air/gas mixer allows automatic mixing of gas with air to control the intensity of the singeing flame. After passing over the flames, the fabric passes through (optional) steam quenching unit.
5.6. DESIZING Desizing is done for the fabrics made from cotton or blends, the warp threads are coated with an adhesive substance known as 'size‘ to prevent the threads breaking during weaving. Although many different compounds have been used to size fabrics, starch and its derivatives have been the most common sizing agent. After weaving, the size must be removed again in order to prepare the fabric for dyeing and finishing. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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This process (desizing) must be carried out by treating the fabric with chemicals such as acids, alkali or oxidising agents. However starch breaking enzymes (amylases) are preferred for desizing due to their high efficiency and specific action. Amylases bring about complete removal of the size without any harmful effects on the fabric. Another benefit of enzymes compared to strong chemicals mentioned above is that enzymes are environment friendly. The unit visited took enzymatic desizing into practice and used the same m/c as for singeing.
Fig 5.6 desizing
5.6.1. STEPS INVOLVED Wetting out with a suitable wetting agent. Steeping the temperature for affecting the swelling and softening of the size paste. Rinsing thoroughly in water. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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5.6.2. CHEMICALS USED DMCP (surfactant agent) - [Deoxycytidine monophosphate] Pulkozyme MFB (wetting agent) The fabric is desized, and then washed. Temperature = 550c Efficiency of the machine = 85% Usage of Calcium and Magnesium causes problems. Chelating agent is used which forms a complex with the size present in the fabric, mixes in water and gets drained off. This wet fabric is wound on batching rollers. These rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with the size present on the fabric.
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5.6.3. FEATURES: An exhaust fan removes fluffs, fumes, dust collected by brush & exits through a ventilation hood. Mixture of C.N.G. (3O to 35 %) and air (65 to 70 %) is supplied at constant pressure. Double burner flame system which automatically controls the flame height, width and temperature. Cool water is supplied to make cool the burner. Water & Chemicals for desizing is supplied to quenching chamber from tanks through pipes. 5.6.4. FAULTS There is a chance of scorching if flame height is not maintained properly. Stopping of machine may cause heat bars on the fabric. Selvedge may burn due to extra hairiness.
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5.7. WASHING
Fig. 5.7
Machine used: INJECTA MACHINE, BENNINGER (GERMANY) Efficiency- 85-87% 5.7.1. PROCESS
The fabric is dipped in water for pre-wetting at 600C (forms slurry). Then the fabric is passed through steam (pulpy). Washing with hot water at 900C through jet. Then the fabric is washed again at 950C. Washing speed for piece dyed and white fabric is 50 m/min. Washing speed for yarn dyed fabric is 80 m/min
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5.8. MERCERISING Mercerising can be done at different stages during the pre-treatment process. This could be after Desizing or after Scouring or after Bleaching. When done after desize-washing, it induces maximum luster onto the fabric. However, contamination of dye can occur, which reduces life of the caustic lye. High degree of whiteness can be achieved if the bleaching process is done after mercerisation. Mercerisation after scouring and bleaching prevents contamination of caustic dye but effects the whiteness and absorbency. Mercerising can be done either on wet fabric with a dye concentration controller or on dry fabrics. Cold Mercerising is strictly done below 20 degree C as there are few chances of hydrolization of color.
Fig. 5.8
250 gpl (grams per litre) caustic soda is applied and kept for 45 sec. Liquid ammonia (NH3) is used in mercerization (NH3 becomes liquid at -33degree Celsius) Liquid ammonia treatment is a highly effective and well controlled alternative to caustic soda mercerisation, but high capital cost of the necessary NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship equipment for recovery and reuse of the ammonia as well as the application steps limits the adoption of this sophisticated approach more widely. The effect of liquid ammonia treatment on the dyeing of the cotton depends on the ammonia is removed. As with mercerising treated yarns and fabrics appear more deeply dyed than untreated material having the same amount of the dye present. There are total 3 machines for mercerization. 5.8.1. PURPOSE BEHIND MERCERIZING Mercerising enhances –
Dimensional stability Improves strength Absorbency Dye uptake and lustre, Parallelisation of fibres Sphering of fibres.
5.8.2. MACHINES USED
Kyoto Clip mercerizer High speed mercerization machine 72 meters long Speed 80 m/min
Benninger Computerized control Trough capacity(for caustic)- 1100 liters NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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After 1 hour and 45 minutes 250 liters of caustic is drained off automatically to change the concentration of the liquor (concentration due to impurities).
5.8.3. Cold mercerization In Arvind cold mercerization is preferred and taken into practice. Cold mercerization dimensionally stabilizes warp and weft. It changes cellulose 1 to cellulose 2. The fabric is washed off with low gel caustic (50 – 80 gpl) and washed with hot water at 900C and then washed with the cold water. Speed of the machine is maintained at 30-50 m/min and the efficiency of the machine is 90%. 5.9.
BLEACHING
(i)
Oxidative bleaching: Generally oxidative bleaching is carried out using sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) or
hydrogen peroxide. Natural fibres like cotton are bleached
with oxidative methods. (ii)
Reductive bleaching: Reductive method of bleaching is done with sodium hydrosulphite, a powerful reducing agent. Fibers like polyamide, Polyacrylics and Polyacetates can be bleached using reductive bleaching technology.
5.9.1. MACHINE USED
1. BENNINGER (GERMANY)
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Summer Textile Internship No. of machines – 1 Speed – 58 m / min Trough capacity – 116 litres of liquor Liquor contains Caustic Peroxide Wetting agent Stabilizer
Fig. 5.9 Beinninger CBR
Wetting of fabric
Bleaching
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Washing with acetic acid
Machine name Batching machine Singeing and desizing machine Injecta washer Continuous bleaching range Mercerizing machine Jumbo jigger Drying machine Soaping machine
Number of machines 2 1 1 1 3 2 1 1
Table 5: Types and number of machines in the preparatory unit
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DYEING SECTION
6. DYEING UNIT 6.1.
DYEING
Dyeing is the process which provides uniform single colouration throughout the surface of the textile material. Dyeing can be classified into various categories on the basis of parameters such as textile material being dyed and whether batched or continuous. Given below is a description of all the dyeing processes which were going on in the unit during the visit. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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6.2. YARN DYEING Dyeing, if done after the fiber has been spun into grey yarn, is described as yarn dyeing. Fabric made of dyed yarns is called yarn dyed fabric. Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to
create
interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different
–
colored yarns in the weaving process. Fig. 6.1
Method employed: Package dyeing under high temperature and high pressure
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Machine used: THEN Number of machines: 87 Capacity: 18 tons/day
6.3. PACKAGE
DYEING
Fig. 6.2
MACHINES In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure can take place, the dyeliquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is evenly exhausted. The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, and the packages are classified according to count and formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod (spindle) or tube. After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank by the means of overhead crane, through which the dye-liquor is circulated. The dye-liquor is pumped through the packages in either direction, according to need. In dyeing warp yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into the seating of the dye tank.
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Fig. 6.3
Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing process. However, packages that are too tightly wound may interfere with the circulation of the dye-liquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as uniformly as possible.
6.4. AUTOLAB-DISPENSER There is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific proportions to get any shade. This is a computerized process and requires little intervention manually. To prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration, this is helpful. A beaker is placed in which some quantity of water is filled. The range of dye that can be added is shown on the screen. Then it is taken and agitated for homogenous mixing. The beaker is replaced and desired concentration entered in the system. Water is filled to achieve that concentration. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. Then the yarn or the fabric swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and time. The machines which are used are: Turbomat: its capacity is minimum 70gms. Spectra dye: its capacity is 7. 5gms Infrared colour: its capacity is 20gms
Fig. 6.4
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6.5. PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE The dyeing machine consists of: Microprocessor It depends on light, medium, dark, reactive dyes. All details are feeded onto the processor and locked, as per the requirement one program is used. Closing Tank In this chemicals are added as per the approved recipe and a tube passes from this tank to main tank through which dye liquor passes through. Main tank It’s the main tank in which carrier is been put. First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of
water is filled. Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank. Programming done according to chemicals, water, temperature. Water coming out from bottom of spindle and spreads out. There are mainly two stages: in–out and out-in 7-8 hrs is taken for dyeing 1 carrier. Capacity is 18 tons/day
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Fig. 6.5 Dummy Carriers
Dummy Carriers In same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as dummy carriers. These carriers consist of dummy spindles. Dummy spindles are plain rod which doesn’t have holes in them so that when dyeing process takes place water is not wasted in and out through these spindles. So these rods block the movement of water in and out through the spindle.
6.6. R.F. DRYER (RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER) After dyeing process almost double amount of water is present inside the package. Then water comes down due to gravity. For the remnant dyeing liquor, a radio frequency dryer is put to use. In this dryer machine electrodes are present, which create an electromagnetic field. H+ and O- polar molecules are produced. They start vibrating and create energy. Therefore H+ an O- get split. In this temperature has to be controlled which is 80˚C and also height between these electrodes and yarns have to be maintained.
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Summer Textile Internship It basically involves placement of dyed packages on a conveyer belt which moves at a speed of 9.2 m/hour. The excess dyeing liquor is removed through the process mentioned above. After the drying process, the yarn packages are winded in a cone, like 2 yarn packages
are
winded in one cone to check forthe shade variation among different yarn packages. TYPES OF DEFECTS 1. Shade matching 2. Shade levelling
6.7. CARRIERS There are around 200 carriers available and minimum being 10 spindles. Maximum of 25 carriers can be put on a machine with at least 10 spindles on 1 carrier. Their height is around 180cm.
6.7.1. TYPES OF CARRIERS SPRING 1.2 kg packages. These carriers are compressed by 12-15%. The weight of these carriers is 160-168 grams.
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Summer Textile Internship PLASTIC TUBE 945 g packages The weight of these carriers is 135-140 grams.
Carriers
AFTER TREATMENT: Hot wash:
80˚C for 10 minutes.
Soaping chemical:
wash of rd (0.5gpl upto 0.2% depth)
Tan:
Metaxiladw (0.7gpl 0.21 to 0.5%)
6.8. FABRIC DYEING 6.8.1. JET DYEING This is the most modern machine used for the dyeing of polyester using disperse dyes. In this machine the cloth is dyed in rope form which is the main disadvantage of the machine. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship In this machine, the dye tank contains disperse dye, dispersing agent, leveling agent and acetic acid. The solution is filled up in the dye tank and it reaches the heat exchanger where the solution will be heated which then passed on to the centrifugal pump and then to the filter chamber. Therefore, this machine made use of HTHP dyeing method. The solution is filtered and reaches a tubular chamber. Here the material to be dyed will be loaded and the winch is rotated, so that the material is also rotated. Again the dye liquor reaches the heat exchanger and the operation is repeated for 20 to 30 minutes at 135˚C. Then the dye bath is cooled down, after the material is taken out. Metering wheel is also fixed on winch by external electronic unit. Its purpose is to record the speed of the fabric. The thermometer, pressure gauge is also fixed in the side of the machine to note the temperature and pressure under working. However, in the plant visited, the jet dyeing machine was not put to use due to the fact that it dyes the fabric in rope form, leaving it crinkled and its extremely low capacity of 1000m/batch. 6.8.2. ADVANTAGES OF JET DYEING MACHINE
Dyeing time is short compared to beam dyeing.
Production is high compared to beam dyeing machine.
6.8.3. DISADVANTAGES JET DYEING MACHINE
Cloth is dyed in rope form
Risk of entanglement
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Chance for crease formation
6.9. CONTINUOUS DYEING
In continuous dyeing, there is a sequence of machinery chambers where-in the well prepared textile material is impregnated with the dye solution in the first section and then passed into the fixation chamber and/ or any other chemical bath used for fixation. Then the material is washed off and finally dried to complete the process. Continuous dyeing is ideal and economical when a large amount of textile must be dyed to the same shade. Machine used: Ben Dry Number of machines: 1 Dye used: Reactive dye > VAT dye (in order of preference) 6.9.1. PROCESS After a series of various rollers, the grey fabric is passed through a trough of dye stuff. After this comes in picture the process of chemical fixation. After being padded with sodium silicate (in an alkaline medium i.e. soda ash), the fabric is passed through steam chambers for chemical fixation. Further it is padded with CH3COOH to neutralize the soda ash and sodium silicate. Next step involves passing the fabric through an Infra-Red heater for mechanical fixation of the dye and drying up the fabric. 6.9.2. SHADE MANAGEMENT
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Summer Textile Internship Once a sample batch is developed, the following method is applied to control center to selvedge variation and shade variation between rolls. Center to selvedge variation check This process takes care of shade variation within the roll. The fabric is divided into 4 sections width wise as shown below:
1
2
3
4
Further these pieces are cut and rearranged as shown below:
3
1
4
2
Once the pieces are arranged as shown in the diagram, if there is any center to selvedge shade variation, it becomes evident instantly. Remedial measures are taken immediately. PROBLEM The jet dyeing machine was left inutile due to low ROI and hence, in extension, poor productivity. SOLUTION
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Summer Textile Internship It was resolved by putting the same machine to use for smaller consignments which required crinkle effect. It is now also used for desizing.
QUALITY ASSURANCE
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7. QUALITY ASSURANCE 7.1. TRADITIONAL VIEW Traditionally quality assurance was looked as if a post-mortem report where in the yarn and the fabric was checked for the quality and standards as per required by the customer. A proper policing was kept on what has been done and what is to be done. Modern view: In the modern day quality assurance has a wider scope and it includes activities like process ownership and calibration where in the department ownership is given to a person and it becomes his/ her duty to deal with it in the most efficient manner. QA Lab is accredited by Marks & Spencers, Levi’s, L L Bean, Next, Gap Inc, Invista (For Lycra Testing), Liz Claiborne (Under Process)
Fig 7.3
Fig 7.2 Fig 7.1 OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. NATIONAL INSTITUTE B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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7.2. QUALITY ASSURANCE LABS 7.2.1. COTTON LABORATORY: Cotton is held for the 70% cost of the fabric cost only and hence becomes a major factor which if controlled will add maximum contribution to the strength of Arvind mills. The coefficient of variance is calculated for the width, diameter and hairiness of the fibre. The machine used for this purpose is USTER TESTER 5.the fibre is passed at a speed of 400m/min and the variance is hence calculated. The variance is calculated against international or the preset Arvind standards. The length, weight and the exact count of the fibre is also calculated and the CASCADE machine is used for this purpose which ensured the right thing at the right time as per customer demands. 7.2.2. PHYSICAL TESTING LABORATORY This testing happens at the yarn manufacturing stage and the yarn is tested for its 1. Length 2. Elongation 3. Elasticity The yarn should be tested in a way so as to know whether the yarn can take all the loadings or not and if yes to what extent can it take. This helps in deciding what processes the yarn can face and what effects cab be deduced.
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Summer Textile Internship Single yarn strength and its elongations is measured using the USTER TENSORPAID 3 machine which is the most trusted name in the field and comes from Switzerland. INSTRON 4465 is used to check the tensile strength of the fibre and the tear strength is also calculated in grams. For all the above written testing’s the standard lab conditions are made at a temperature of 60+/2 F and the humidity level is maintained at 65%+/-2% Factors like stretchablilty skew and shrinkage are tested after marking is done followed by three washings of the fabric; the fabric is tonned to the environment after keeping it in the standard environment. 7.2.3. CHEMICAL TESTING LABORATORY: In the chemical laboratory they check all the fuels, dyes, and all the chemicals that are used in the production process. They even check the denim if it is washed with bleach how much it fades the colour. They try different process like how the denim would react in different conditions like in case of
Fig. 7.4
perspiration, salt water, normal water, in extreme temperature. 7.2.4. COLOUR QUEST LABORATORY: NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship In the colour quest they try to find out the different shades and they see to it that after the washing and drying process does the shade match the requirement of the customer or not.
7.2.5. CALIBRATION LABORATORY: Calibration is a specialized measurement process where in one compares test and measuring instruments/ equipments of unknown status to well defined standards of greater accuracy in order to detect/eliminate error by adjustments & report any variation in accuracy capability. 7.2.6. CALIBRATION ACTIVITY Calibration through in – house facility 93% Calibration through out - side agencies 7% 7.2.7. CALIBRATION FACILITY AT CALIBRATION LABORATORY Parameters and Instruments used for its calibration Temperature Mercury thermometer, temperature indicator & controllers, temperature switches, temperature gauges, temperature transmitters. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Pressure Pressure gauge, vacuum gauge, pressure transmitter, pressure switch. Mass Analytical weighing balance AC/OC voltage, AC/DC current, single phase power, frequency, resistance capacitance, conductance, logic pulses, logic levels. Digital& analogue amateur, millimeters, panel meters, frequency meters. Dimensional Measure tape, steel scale, Vernier capture, micro meter, dial gauge. Gas lab instruments Lab instruments used for quality conformance tests & physical testing lab & chemical testing lab.
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Fig. 7.5
7.3. HVI
SPECTRUM
(High
Volume
Instrument)
–
ZELLWEGER USTER This is a prime instrument, which fulfills all the requirements and measures the different parameters for cotton to be used in production. The different criteria, which it detects, are as follows: length of the fiber NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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uniformity in the length strength of the fiber elongation or elastic behavior of the fiber
Fig. 7.6
short fiber length (no. of fibers lesser than ½”) Rd: the color i.e. the degree of yellowness or whiteness of the fibers. the percentage of coarseness and fineness of the fiber i.e. the micronaire measurement. Around 150-200 gms of fibers are taken for testing.
7.4.
FIBRO SAMPLER- HVI 900
This is a semi-operated machine and measures all parameters except color. A comb is used to take out ‘fiber beard’, which is used to feed the machine. 7.5.
USTER MDTA 3
This is used to test impurities in cotton. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and the output includes clean cotton, micro dust and major impurities. The clean cotton serves as a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver.
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7.6. YARN FAULT-TESTING 7.6.1. CLASSIMAT: This instrument tests faults in the yarn. 100 km of yarn can be tested at once. The thick and thin, long and short areas of the yarn are detected and categorized according to the severity. In a graph, A1, B1, C1…denotes the length of the fault, while A1, A2, A3…denotes the mass of the yarn which in turn is a measure of thickness. If the resultant value falls under E, it is a long and thick area. F and G of the graph show thin and long areas. 7.6.2. USTER TENSOJET: This is a single yarn strength-testing instrument. It runs at a speed of 400 m per min. 500 readings are taken each out of 10 packages of one sample. It gives the values in unit of force/ count = g/tex. Elongation of the yarn is also measured. 7.6.3. USTER UNEVENESS TESTER: This tests and reads thick places (+50%), thin places (-50%) and neps (200%). At a speed of 400m/min, yarn from 10 packages is tested. The Unevenness % and hairiness as a sum of total hair lengths are obtained At stages of ring winding, roving, cone winding etc tests are conducted many times a week to ensure consistency. This is in-process checking. 7.6.4. TWIST TESTER: According to the required specifications twist of the yarn is measured in this which involves different methods for single, doubled and open end yarn.
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Fig. 7.7
7.6.5. AFIS (ADVANCED FIBER INFORMATION SYSTEM): An in process testing system for detecting neps, length, micronaire till roving stage. 7.6.6. WRAP BLOCK: It is used to measure the hank of the feeding material to decide the setting for the next process
7.6.7. YARN BOARD WINDER: Is done when required. Here, the yarn is wound on black or white board according to its own color and analyzed subjectively for slubs. 7.6.8. ELECTRONIC LEA STRENGTH TESTER: The lea is subjected to pulling force by means of clamps and breaking strength is tested. The value obtained is CSP (count strength product). 7.6.9. HAIRINESS TESTER: On the basis of optical principle, the hairiness is measured as the number of hairs per unit length for 24 mm. NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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7.7. WRINKLE TESTER: To determine a fabric's ability to recover after wrinkling under a predetermined load for a set period of time. Set of 3-D plastic replicas are available to grade fabrics. Fig. 7.8
7.8. CROCKMETER To determine the color fastness of dyed or printed textiles or leather, this test is used for the determination of color fastness against rubbing, either under dry or under wet conditions. Fig. 7.9
7.9. Pilling Resistance Tester Determines the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes of textile fabrics using the random tumble pilling tester.
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Summer Textile Internship Specimens are laundered 3 times and then conditioned in atmospheric conditions for textiles The edges of 3 4”x4” squares cut on the bias are sealed with glue and allowed to dry The 3 specimens are placed in the pilling chamber along with 25mg of gray-dyed cotton fiber and tumbled for 30 minutes The specimens are evaluated in a viewing apparatus against photographic standards (ASTM ADJD 3512) or in house fabric Fig. 7.10
standards.
7.10. TEARING TESTER Elmendorf Tearing Tester. To determine the ballistic tearing strength of textiles, paper or board. Range from 8000 to 64000 Millinewtons with suitable pendulum. Pendulums not included.
Fig. 7.11 Fig. 7.8
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Fig. 7.12
To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile structures. Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in continuously NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship changing directions and the amount of abrasion or pilling is compared against standard parameters.
Fig. 7.9
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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8. ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS AT ARVIND Optimizing usage of cotton, energy, chemicals & water. Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste & air emissions. Maintaining a safe working environment. Increasing the green cover. Training employees on environmental issues
8.1. AIR POLLUTION CONTROL
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Summer Textile Internship Arvind ltd. has switched from liquid fuel to natural gas for all their heating & steam requirements in order to avoid air pollution.
8.2. WATER TREATMENT Arvind ltd. also possess chemical, biological treatment facilities to treat 1000m/day of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms.
8.3. ACCREDITATIONS “Global organic textile standards”, control union certifications, the Netherlands, for processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture. ISO-17025 NABL – national accreditation board for laboratories, Delhi, India, for chemical & mechanical disciplines of testing. Premier accreditation scheme by marks & Spencer, test methods and conditions set forth, laboratory, shirting division business, the Arvind mills ltd. Liz claiborne int’l ltd., testing audit performance, laboratory, shirting business division, the Arvind mills ltd. “SKAL international standards for sustainable textile production” Labs certified by DuPont
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Summer Textile Internship ISO14000:
provides
environment
management
standards
to
help
organisations minimise their negative impact on the environment.
8.4. ACCREDITED BY MARKS & SPENCERS LEVIS TOMMY HILFIGER RALPH LAUREN NEXT DUPONT DEBENHAMS
9. LEARNINGS Arvind is the best platform to learn how quality and quantity is maintained at the same time. That’s the reason we joined the mill for our first internship. We learn a lot in our 15 days internship. Ring dying process in denim was the best part of our learning as it was the process of great curiosity. Our mentor told and explain the whole process and clarified on the the process. Also we saw the only machine in Asia that is “cone to beam converter”. It converts the cone to beam and vice-versa. So we can use this machine with every machine and can produce output in any type of format. Also we came to know about some new finishing techniques like arrow finish which is given to provide softness to fabric. We got the opportunity to see the latest NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Summer Textile Internship technology machines in the mill like drawing and carding machines which is able to reduce the manpower upto 8 persons per machine. Our whole internship was full of learning and it teaches us how quality is preserved with quantity. We got chance to an industry full of dedicated workers.
10.
ARVIND LIMITED – REVIEW NOTE 2014-15
Agenda: Financial Performance: Consolidated Financial Performance: Standalone
Business Analysis
Financial Performance: Q4 2014-15 Consolidated revenue growth of 8% and PAT growth of 3%
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Business Highlights: Q4 2014-15 Moderate top-line growth with moderated bottom-line due to higher tax
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Key Highlights: Revenue growth of 8% achieved due to 17% top-line growth in Brands & Retail 16% top-line growth in Garments PBT growth of 20%, PAT growth 3% over Q4 FY14 Despite healthy growth in PBT for the year, the PAT growth was muted due to higher tax Exceptional items: Rs. 26 crores for retrenchment of 960 workers Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph Lauren
Financial Performance: FY 2014-15 Revenue growth of 14% and PAT growth of 7% NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Business Highlights: FY 2014-15 Strong top-line & bottom-line growth NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Key Highlights Revenue growth of 14% achieved due to 23% top-line growth of Brands & Retail 6% top-line growth of Textiles EBIDTA margin % slightly lower Higher weightage of Brand & Retail Business Lower textile margin PBT growth of 18% : PAT growth of 7% PAT growth lower at 7% due to higher tax Exceptional items : Rs.29 crores for retrenchment of 1012 workers Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo Ralph Lauren
Margin moderated in both key business segments in FY 2014-15 Quarterly margins lower than LY due to Forex loss and Mega Mart Performance NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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EBIDTA margin of textile business lower due losses incurred in two garments manufacturing plants which commenced commercial production in Q4.
Textiles Business: Revenue Mix in FY2014-15 Textile revenue grew by 6% NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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Led by 8% growth Woven fabrics 6% growth in garments 2% growth in Denim 10% growth on a smaller base for the voiles business
Volume growth: Woven volume growth at 8%: Denim at 1%
Key Parameters: FY2014-15 – Textiles NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH (2013-17)
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11.
ANNEXURES
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References:
Images given by Mr Subhanish Malhotra, Senior H.R. Manager, Arvind Limited,
Santej. Facts and other data provided by different Department Supervisors: Mr.Kabir Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and Mr. Rajesh Tiwari (Weaving
Department Supervisor). www.arvindmills.com http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/shareholding/2013/Review%20Note
%20Q4%2012-13.pdf http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arvind_Mills
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