Arvind Mills Internship Document

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT ARVIND MILLS, SANTEJ (AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT).

FIBRE TO FABRIC (SHIRTINGS)

SUBMITTED BY: AVANI AMBARDAR HIMANSHU NATH SHEKHAR ITI VERMA KRATI AGRAWAL PRIYAMVADA ROHIT KUMAR SHIKHA MAURYA SHRUTI KAPADIA -DFT IV

NIFT GANDHINAGAR

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Within the preview of the textile industry there is much information pertaining to making of fabric, disseminated by words in the books. But to see the whole process by your own eyes is a wonderful experience. We the students of Apparel production, Department of Fashion Technology, semester IV, of NIFT, Gandhinagar would like to extend our sincere gratitude to the management of NIFT and ARVIND LTD for providing us this opportunity to experience and learn the processes practiced in Textile Industry. It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well planned and advanced textile units, working with them was eye-opening for us as we saw how things are done in big companies. We take the opportunity to thank all the people who guided us through the entire process and made our training a success by sharing their knowledge. We would like to thank Mr. Shubhanish Malhotra, Sr. Manager (H.R) and Ms. Somya Sharotri, Manager (H.R) at Arvind our mentor and all department heads who helped us through the project without whose support and guidance the internship couldn’t have been completed satisfactorily.

PART – 1

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

Arvind Mills, the flagship company of the Lalbhai Group, is one of India's leading composite manufacturers of textiles. Its headquarters is in Ahmadabad, Gujarat, India. It manufactures a range of cotton shirting, denim, knits and bottom weights (Khakis) fabrics. It is India's largest denim manufacturer apart from being world’s fourth-largest producer and exporter of denim. In the early 1980s, the company brought denim into the domestic market, thus started the jeans revolution in India. Today it not only retails its own brands like Flying Machine, Newport and Excalibur but also licensed international brands like Arrow, Lee, Wrangler and Tommy Hilfiger, through its nationwide retail network. Arvind also runs a value retail chain, Mega mart, which stocks company brands. The original budget for the company totaled $ 55 thousand, at present it is $ 500 million Arvind feature is that its enterprises are equipped with highly advanced equipment of a full cycle – from painting the fiber to the finished product.

History and Operations

Arvind Mills was established in 1931. It was founded by the three brothers Kasturbhai Lalbhai, Narottambhai Lalbhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai one of the leading families of Ahmedabad. •

1931 – Arvind Mills Ltd. is incorporated with share capital

Rs.2525000 ($55000) in Ahmedabad. Products manufactured are dhotis, saris, mulls, dorias, crepes, shirtings, bra, panties, coatings, printed lawns & voiles cambrics, twills gaberdine etc. •

1987 – The Company took up a modernisation programme to triple

the production of denim cloth and to produce double yarn fabrics for exports. The new product groups identified were the indigo dyed blue denim, high quality two-ply fabrics for exports, and special products such as butta saris, full voils and dhotis. •

1991 – Arvind reached 100 million meters of denim per year,

becoming the fourth largest producer of denim in the world. •

1992 – The Company increased the production of denim cloth by

23,000 tonnes per day by modernising the plant located at Khatraj of Ankur Textiles. •

1993 – The Company proposed to expand the denim manufacturing

capacity by 85, 00, 00 metres per annum. The Company also proposed to set up a new composite mill for producing annually 120 lakh metres of high quality shirting fabrics to be marketed in the domestic as well as international markets. •

1994 – The Company's operations were divided into 3 units viz.,

Textile Division, telecom division and garments division. •

1995 – The performance of textile division was significantly affected

due to an unprecedented rise in cost of cotton. Garment division launched ready to stitch jeans pack under the brand `Ruf & Tuf`.

•

1997 – The marketing and distribution network of `Newport` brand

was strengthened and the relaunched `Flying Machine' and 'Ruggers` brand were strengthened. 

The Company reported a fire in the goods godown & folding



packing department in Naroda Road unit of the company. Arvind Mills sets up the anti-piracy cell for the first time in India to curb large scale counterfeiting of their highly successful



brands Ruf & Tuf and Newport jeans. Arvind Mills adopts the franchisee system for the manufacture



and distribution of Ruf and Tuf jeans. Arvind Fashions, doubles its capacity in the state-of-the-art



manufacturing facility in Bangalore to produce Lee jeans. 1997 was also the year when Arvind mills started facing serious troubles financially

•

1998 – Arvind Mills emerges as the world's third largest

manufacturer of denim. Arvind Mills goes live with SAP R/3 ERP package in April 1998 in their new manufacturing units. •

1999 – Arvind Mills sets a two-month deadline for hiving off its

garments division into a separate company and sale of its real estate in Delhi. •

2000 – CRISIL downgrades the debenture issues of Arvind, indicating

that the instruments were in default. •

2001 – Arvind Mills defaults on a $125 million floating rate note

issue and puts forward a debt restructuring proposal that could significantly reduce its debt burden and sharply improve its financial health. Arvind Mills posts a net loss of Rs 44.59 crore for the quarter ended September 30, 2001. •

2003 – For the fourth quarter, Arvind Mills witnesses 280% growth in

the net profit Arvind Mills Ltd is assigned a `P1+` rating by CRISIL, which indicates a very strong rating for their commercial paper.

•

2004 – Company turns itself around showing remarkable

improvement in financial performance. •

2005 – For the fourth quarter in a row, Arvind Mills has managed to

post a profit growth in excess of 80 per cent. Arvind Mills decides to buy entire stake in Arvind Brands from ICICI Ventures. •

Arvind Mills does not distribute dividends to its shareholders

consistently.

ARVIND BRANDS Flying Machine, Newport in jeans and Excalibur in shirts. Arvind also has licenses from reputed international brands like Arrow, Lee, Wrangler, Tommy Hilfiger, Marks and Spencer, Adidas and many more.

MANUFACTURING PHILOSOPHY Excellence in quality and flexibility in production

VISION To achieve global dominance in select business built around our core competencies, through continuous product and technical innovation customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES Arvind is 100% self-reliant in power generation with our Naptha based captive power plant. They have ETP base on reverse osmosis, solid waste

management (Parchment Techniques) water recycling plant to consume the same water utilized. A forestation campaign through green plantations around the mill is also on.

TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles.

Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibres, filaments, or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness. Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing. Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes on the learning of the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the major processes of procuring raw material, spinning, weaving/knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing, testing and quality control measures. The internship revolves around observing the functioning and processing at a Textile Manufacturing Unit. It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process parameters, working conditions, process flow and other important criteria in the manufacturing process. It is also important to observe the machinery details, safety measures, and productivity, testing and quality criteria. We were to understand the step-wise breakdown of all the process, how they are carried and what are the start and end-product at each of these steps. The two weeks of internship focuses on enhancing the knowledge about the properties of different fibres, their physical and chemical nature and their behaviour when subjected to varied conditions. The observations made on the treatment of different fibres based on their differing properties were also to be learnt and recorded alongside.

OBJECTIVE OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

The objective of our textile internship at Arvind Limited was to understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric (both woven and knitted) production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purposes.

Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machinery features, machine and material process parameters available in detail in the areas as mentioned below. We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand during our internship:     

Yarn manufacturing and Winding section Weaving section Finishing section Printing section Testing and Quality control

COMPANY PROCESS FLOW

The customer and the marketing department communicate with each other. The marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and then communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance and Product Planning and Control (PPC) who decide on the various guidelines and the time required to execute the order. These

guidelines are then communicated to the plant head who conveys them to the various departments according to the guidelines and instructions. The fabric is then sent to the fabric inspection and then to the Central Quality Assurance, who sends it to the folding and dispatch from where other financial activities follow.

PART – 2

YARN MANUFACTURING AND WINDING SECTION

This was the first section to be covered on factory floor. For this we were sent to Naroda plant of Arvind which is very famous for its Denim production. Near to them was ASHOKA SPINTEX which was only for yarn preparation purpose. Below are the various processes they were using in for yarn preparation.

Storage and inspection sectionRaw material which is basically cotton is received from godown Arvind Mills, Naroda daily in trucks. The raw material is received in bale form. COTTON BALES

 

Imported (US- least cost , Egypt, Russia, Australia) Domestic Organic cotton sourced from Vidharbha (Maharashtra).

YARN REALIZATION/RECOVERY  

Indian/Domestic – 65% for 100 kg Imported - 70-75% for every 100 kg

BALE CAPACITY   

Indian bales: 165 kg. (45k/Candy-355kg) American: 225 kg Egyptian bales: 275 as well as 325 kg

INPUT VS OUTPUT 

Input: 11 ton



Output: 6-7 tons

This production is for 24 hrs & for all counts. STROAGE:

3- 4 months

VARIETIES    

Panni Brahma Cotton J-34 Cotton Pima Cotton Egyptian Cotton etc.

BLOWROOM The Blow Room is the first stage or first process in the short staple spinning. The name “Blow Room” is given to this stage because of the “air” that is commonly used during this processing of fibres. The cotton arrives at the mill in large bales. The compressed mass of raw fiber must be removed from the bales, blended, opened and cleaned. Blending is necessary to obtain uniformity of fiber quality; opening is necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning is required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs and any remaining seeds in order to prepare the fiber for spinning into yarn. FUNCTION OF BLOWROOM  

Blending, Opening and Cleaning To open the baled fibers into small tufts which will allow foreign matter to be separated from the fibers and prepare the material for easy carding.



To clean the fibers by removing the foreign matter as the waste. The foreign matter consists mainly of seeds, seed coats, leafy matter



and sand/dust in the case of cotton. To mix thoroughly the different components fibers of a mixing so as



to give homogenous blending To form a compact and uniform sheet of fibers- the lap

The various impurities like short fibers and trash present in the raw materials are removed here in blowroom.     

Blow room efficiency – 91 % Wastage – 2-2.5 % Power consumption – 110 kW 2-3 % impurity is allowed in shirting division Blending and cleaning is done in a single machine

Machines Classification:Sno. 1

Machine Blendomat

Process Suction of the

Number 1

fibers 2

Axi flow

Opening of the

2

fibers 3

MPM

Mixing of the

2

fibers together 4

CNT

Further opening

1

5

Vetal

of the fibers Removes color

1

impurities present in the 6

Scutcher

fiber Converts the fibers into a sheet form

The segregated waste in sent for re-processing. Output – Laps . Usually 45 mtr long and 21.6 kg in weight.

6

Capacity – Each Scutcher 3500 kgs in 24hrs. Total Capacity -- 21000 kgs /Day.

Basic problem Usually ginning and sometimes rains tend to wet the cotton which makes the cotton heavy and sticky. It becomes hard to open the fibres then.

CARDING Carding is the process which involves removal of fibers, impurities from laps formed in blowroom. Also by this process the fibers are made to arrange parallel. Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the fibers must be disentangled, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel lengthwise alignment. This process of aligning fibers in parallel fashion is called carding. The machine used is called the carding machine. The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn on a rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes. A moving belt of wire brushes slowly moves concentrically above the cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trash, disentangles the fibers and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in the form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that moulds it into round rope like mass called card sliver. The machine used for this purpose was a carding machine of Indian made named ‘Lakshmi Reiter’ . No. of such machines used – 52.

Mechanism:- The laps are fed into machine which consist of several rollers in which lap is pressed and impurities are removed. Later the pressed laps are converted into carded sliver. The length of sliver varies with the width of it.(again depends on further requirement of process).

Wire Pin It is used to straighten the fibers, 800 ppsi (picks per square inch).The ouput i.e carded sliver are collected in cylinders 20 kg each. Cylinder speed -4500 rpm. Temperature – 32 C , Efficiency – 92% Output Capacity –400 kg/Day.

COMBING

This process is for the additional straightening of the carded sliver. In this operation, fine toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that a short fibers called noils, are combed out and completely separated from the longer fibers. Combing is an optional process introduced into the spinning of finer and high-quality yarns from finer cotton. For coarser cotton fibers, the combing operation is usually omitted. This is the process of removal of a predetermined length of short fibers present in the fiber assembly. 2.5.1 TASKS OF COMBING     

yarn evenness strength cleanness smoothness visual appearance

In addition to the above, combed cotton needs less twist than a carded yarn. WORK OF THE COMBER To produce an improvement in yarn quality, the comber must perform the following operations:

1. Elimination of short fibers. 2. Elimination of remaining impurities. 3. Elimination of naps.

COMBING PROCESS

There are sensors to sense the thickness of sliver. If the thickness is more than required then the speed of rollers is automatically increased to decrease the thickness of sliver. For finer count, the production is low

DRAWING The combining of several slivers for the drawing process removes irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were put

through singly. The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. This action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing longer and thinner slivers. After several stages of drawing out, the condensed sliver is taken to the slubber, where rollers similar to those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the slubbing is passed to the spindles, where it is given the first twist and then wound on bobbins. FUNCTIONS OF DRAWING     

Improve Evenness by doubling of many card slivers. Parallelization of material Blending / Mixing different slivers to insure uniformity in the material Removal of micro dust and very short fibers by suction Drafting(Roller Drafting)

Drawing follows either combing or carding, depending o n the quality of yarn desired. The purpose of drawing i s to make yarn more uniform by combing and elongating multiple slivers , thus el iminating the randomly occurring defects . After drawing, rotor yarns go directly to the spinning frame.

TASKS OF DRAWFRAME      

Through doubling the slivers are made even Doubling results in homogenization (blending) Through draft fibers get parallelized Hook secreted in the card are straightened Through the suction, intensive dust removal is achieved Auto leveller maintains absolute sliver fineness

ROVING (Speed Frame)

These bobbins are placed on the roving frame, where further drawing out and twisting takes place until the cotton stock is about the diameter of a pencil lead. Roving is the final product of the several drawing-out operations . It is a preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist.

SPEED FRAME Speed frames are used for roving bobbin. Roving is an intermediate process during the conversion of fibers into yarn. The purpose of roving is to prepare a better input package for the ring frame. FUNCTIONS OF SPEED FRAMES   

To Draft the material to the required linear density To insert required level of Twist (usually very low ) To Produce a stable package.

SPINNING RING FRAME PROCESS:

The cones from the preparatory section are set on the machines. The machines have spindles on which the yarn is to be wound. Here the yarns of the cone are transformed from thick to thin yarn in the spindles. This is done by setting a certain draft. The machine is fully automatic. The programs are set according to the requirement. The workers need to change the cone once they get empty and spindles as they are filled. The ring spinning frame completes the manufacture of yarn:--By drawing out the roving, inserting twist and by winding the yarn on bobbins, all in one operation. FUNCTIONS OF RING FRAME   

To Draft the material to the required linear density (Count) Twisting (High twist , to make strong yarn by Traveller ) Package winding (Bobbins easy for transport )

AUTO-CONER: The spindles are then fed into the auto-coner. The purpose of auto-coner is to remove the thick and thin places or any kind of yarn faults (long cuts, short cuts, naps etc.) and also make bigger cones. The parameters are set according to the buyers requirements and the machine automatically cuts the thread with the help of a cutter whenever it senses a fault. The broken ends are then untwisted to fiber form and retwisted together with the help of a thermo splicer.

YARN WINDING The yarns received from the preparatory section are in the form of spindles or bobbins. The process of converting spindles into cones is called winding.

TASKS OF THE WINDING PROCESS 

Extraction of all disturbing yarn fault s such as the short, long thick,

  

long thin, spinner s doubles, etc. Paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process Introduction into the yarn of a minimum number of knots The winding process therefore has the basic function of obtaining a larger package from several small ring bobbins.

Yarn Wound:   

If 100 kgs of yarn is needed, usually 10-12% extra is made For lighter colours, 8-10% extra is made For dark colours, 2-3% extra is made

SOFT PACKAGE PREPARATION: The yarns prepared after winding are tightly wound on the cones. The yarns which have to be dyed are first converted into soft packages for better penetration of color. REWINDING: After the yarn has been dyed, rewinding is to be done. During yarn dyeing soft packages are used on which the yarns were loosely wound which might lead to improper unwinding during warping. Thus, the yarn has to be wound on the cones again tightly.

One of the major problem in winding is that the yarn may be wound too tight( hard package) or too loose which may lead to problems in dyeing, solution to which was nothing but just operators always have to have an eye on tension of winding. PROBLEM:-During the spinning process some workers were not wearing any protection mask and earplugs which may lead to occupational hazards

such as respiratory problems and temporary hearing loss in short term exposure and in the long run may lead to fatal diseases as the process involves a lot of fine suspended particles in the workplace. SOLUTION Masks and earplugs should be provided to all the workers in this section and wearing of mask should be made compulsory for all the workers and it should be strictly followed.

PART – 3 KNITTED FABRIC MANUFACTURING SECTION

INTRODUCTION Arvind knits business division (AML-KBD) is a part of the ‘Multi product textile facility’ set up at Santej, Dist: Gandhinagar, with an investment of US $ 50 million; set up in collaboration with Alamac Knits Inc. USA. Arvind KBD operates one of Asia’s largest vertically integrated knitwear plants. This features state of the art equipment and world class production capacities. Arvind assures the best quality and total standardization with its in-house production from yarn to final garment. The fabric production capacity is of 4992 tons per annum.

MARKET PROFILE Arvind knits has over the years acquired strong and meaningful business relationships with brands and retailers the world over. Arvind has always been in tune with the fashion trends abroad. The design cell works two

seasons in advance, to cater to the demands of various rungs of fashion brands and retailers. Major International Customers 

NIKE International



FILA Sports



OUTERBANKS, USA



Sara Lee, USA



Wrangler, USA



S. Oliver Germany



Espirit Germany



NEXT, UK



Reebok, USA

PDG Departmen t Yarn Received Preparation of soft package Yarn

dyeing

Rewinding

Knitting

Fabric Dyeing

Finishing

Packaging

Major Domestic Customers 

ITC Wills Sport



Color Plus



Arrow



Lee



Parx



Uni Style Image

Flow in Knit Division

PDG Department:

Working as the front lines for the company, the department is involved in development of new kind of products i.e. fabrics. The department functions at four different levels: 

It has a pool of designers which suggest them with the theme board, and as such inspire them to come up with a new design of fabric for a season.



Some freelance designers are also associated with the department. They come up with new designs and as such fabric is to be developed in accordance with the design.



Buyers sometimes come up with a particular sample and demands. As such the product is being replicated in the lab and the technicality needs to be decided.



The department itself also takes initiative to develop a new kind of fabric or modify a previous product such that it can be targeted to a different segment of market.

YARN DYEING The yarns dyed are mainly polyester, cotton and vicose for both shirting and hosiery. The dyes used are mainly reactive (90%), vat dyes and disperse dyes. The grey yarn is sourced from Nahar, Vardhman and Arvind itself. Firstly, the sampling is done according to customer requirement. If approved the bulk dyeing begins.

MACHINE AND PRODUCT CATEGORIZATION CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

A. TUBULAR KNITTING

(I) SINGLE JERSEY

BASIC MACHINE  

Single colour single jersey tubular fabric. Only 4 types of buts available so can make simple designs like:



pique, honeycomb, twill, herring bond, crape, and fleece. Single jersey Lycra, fleece Lycra, pointel, drop needle.

MINI JACQUARD Can develop complex designs which are not possible by the basic machine, has got 37 jacks adjustments on drums to knit, miss and tuck. FULL JACQUARD Individual needle selection possible here so any kind of design can be possible.

(II) DOUBLE JERSEY BASIC MACHINE

  

Single colour double jersey fabric. Rib & Interlock designs possible with simple needle adjustment. Simple designs possible as in single jersey basic machine.

OPEN WIDTH KNITTING MACHINE BASIC MACHINE Similar to single jersey basic machine but it cuts the tubular form and rolls it in open form.

FLAT-BED KNITTING MACHINE BASIC MACHINE This machine is especially used to make collar, cuffs, and other bands used in garment. Basic designs possible, designs up to 8 colours can be made. CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE Machines used for knitting tubular fabric in a continuous uninterrupted length of constant width.

Circular knitting machine parts 1. Spring loaded yarn support 2. Spring loaded detector points

3. Cylinder needle system 4. Cam system 5. Automatic lubrication system 6. Fabric tube 7. Revolution counter 8. Lint blower 9. Creel stand 10. Dial needle system in case of double jersey. 11. Feeder – there are two types of feeder used for S/J if the front and back side are different. 12. Latch needle

CIRCULAR MACHINE KNITTING PROCEDURE

REST POSITION CLEARING YARN FEEDING KNOCK OVER HOLDING DOWN PROCEDURE

In case there is any discrepancy in the process flow the machine is stopped automatically and the problem is indicated on the control box. The discrepancies may be:      

Thread breakage Lycra breakage Fabric take up roll door open Lint accumulation Needle breakage Yarn loose

Flatbed knitting machine

V bed machines have two rib gated, diagonally approaching needle beds, set at between 90˚-104˚to each other giving an inverted v shape appearance. FLATBED KNITTING MACHINE PARTS       

Yarn take up spring Yarn guides Yarn feeder Needle bed Carriage Fabric take up roll Control unit

Machine details END PRODUCTS BASED ON FABRIC COMPOSITION        

100% Cotton Polycot (60%-40%, 65%-35%, 70%-30%, 50%-50% composition ) Cotton Viscose 100% viscose Polyviscose Cotton linen Cotton modal Modal lycra

BASED ON FABRIC STRUCTURE, COUNT AND GSM    

Single Jersey – 90-240gsm, 60s-10s cotton Rib – 145-300gsm, 40s-16s cotton Plain Interlock – 180-220gsm, 36s-40s Plaited Interlock – upto 320gsm, 30s-40s

FABRIC INSPECTION There are 4 fabric inspection machines in the department. Two for greige fabric (piece dyed) and two for yarn dyed fabric. They follow 4 point system for fabric inspection. Size Upto 3” 3”-6” 6”-9” 9” and above

Fresh Grade-B

Points 1 2 3 4

Max Minor Point in 20-25kg

Max Major Point in 20-25kg

Total Penalty Point in 20-25kg

8 12

8 12

16 24

Above 24 and continuous damage is rejected. Cut able Defect    

If length of defect is above 2m. Needle line or press of more than 1m. Heavy yarn variation. 2 parts roll given 4 penalty points. Holes have 4 penalty points.

Points/100sq.mtr= (Total number of point x 10000)/ (Roll meters x fabric width) Any deviation more than above standard is to be passed by H.O.D. KNITTING DEFECTS    

Barreness Hole Needle Line Drop stitches

       

Sinker Line Press off Oil Line Knots Tail Ends Tuck Stitches Off Pattern Edge Marks

PROBLEM During the knitting of collar using Lycra yarn, a lot of hole was emerging as there was not free movement between the yarn and the needle. SOLUTION To solve this problem, the supervisor suggested a special kind of oil to be applied to the yarns which cleared the needle movement and solved the problem.

PART -4 SHIRTING

(WEAVING SECTION)

INTRODUCTION

The shirting division has an annual capacity of 34 million meters. Prominent products within this category include fabrics with non-iron properties, mechanical finishes printed fabrics apart from cotton and cotton blends in linen, lycra, polyester, modal, silk, etc with varieties of yarn dyed and solids. Product Range: Counts: 16s, 20s, 24s, 30s, 2/30s, 40s, 50s, 2/50s, 60s, 2/80s, 2/100s, 2/140s, 2/170s, 2/190s. Blends: 100% cotton, tencel, linen, modal, polyester cotton, lycra, silk.

Varieties: Yarn-dyed stripes, checks, fil-a-fil’s, chambrays and solids in all possible weaves like twills, satins, dobbies and jacquards. Chemical Finishes done: ETI, Stain free, Odor free, UV cut, Arvi Silk, Nano-care, Nano-pel, etc. Mechanical finishes done: Peaching, Brushing, Biancalari, etc. Arvind has a unique plant for manufacturing very light weight indigo dyed fabrics in dyed and solids for top weights.

PLANT AND TECHNOLOGY The plant has an integrated manufacturing facility right from yarn to finished fabrics under one roof. Shirting division is committed to a world class quality product, with the installation of world class technology and continuous quality improvement programs.

WEAVING Weaving is the interlacement of warp and weft. After the warp beams have been prepared the process of weaving begins. The beams are loaded onto the looms. We visited the Textile Park for the weaving section. The textile park is an all weaving plant in Santej which carries out production of fabric for Arvind Mills. The weaving shed has 48 weaving machines in total. The conditions maintained in the weaving shed are: Temperature: 32-35 Humidity: 75%

Machine Categorization

The Textile Park basically had two types of weaving machines. 1. Air jet weaving machines The machine has an air tank which is given a predetermined pressure of 7 bar. There are nozzles in the machine through which the weft is passed due to the air pressure. Generally, light weight and fine count yarns are weaved on air-jet looms. This is because the angle of shed opening is reduced here which reduced the elongation or stretch on the warp yarns, thereby reducing yarn breakage. 2. Rapier weaving machines In this the weft insertion is done by 2 rapiers .The left side rapier carries the yarn till the centre and then it is carried from the center till the other end by the right hand side rapier. By this one pick is inserted followed by beating by the reed.

PICANOL GAMMEX This is a Japanese build machine. It uses a rapier mechanism for weaving. It uses a dobby mechanism. There are a total of 24 machines of this type. The production of this machine is 60 metres per 8 hrs(1 shift). The product is more costly and of better build quality than the air jet machines. The counts being produced range from 30s to 2/171s. The yarns being used are cotton, lycra, linen etc. Machine specifications        

Tension – 2.9 kh RPM – 470 Efficiency - 77% Weft feeder – 8 Two edge cutters Frame capacity – 24 Cost – approx 35 lakhs Production is slower

TOYOTA JAT 710

It is the other type of weaving machine at use in Textile Park , Santej. It uses a air jet mechanism for production. It uses a dobby mechanism attachments. There are a total of 24 machines of this type which work on air jet mechanism. The average production of this machine is about 100 metres per 8 hours( 1 shift). The production is much quicker than the rapier mechanism machines. Machine specification RPM – 520 Frame capacity – 16 Weft feeder – 6 Cost – 22-25 lakhs Production is faster It has a single edge cutter Fabric produced is cheaper Waste There are basically a few types of waste found in Textile Park. Usually the waste is minimized but still about 2-3% of the production goes to waste everyday. The various types of waste are the following:Size Waste It is the thread left on the warp beam after the beam has been utilized. It is basically about 5-6 metres on each warp beam.

Knotting waste This is the waste generally occurring during the process of knotting which is joining together of two warp beams using a knotter. Usually the first few metres of the newer warp beam are not used and are waste. This is basically half metres every time during changeover of the beams.

Catchcord waste When the spindle is rotated, the waste weft clings to the cling part of the spindle and is entangled with the catch cord yarn. The entangled weft and yarn is collected in a box. It is basically a waste after cutting.

Size extra waste This kind of waste is generally because the warp is sized much more than required. This generally happens in the yarn used in denim manufacture than in the yarn used in the manufacture of shirting fabric.

Chindi waste This waste is basically utilized. It is sold to people who buy it to make door mats and rugs. This waste is generally 2-4 metres per beam.

There are other little wastage occurring. These were mainly occurring wastage in the Textile Park which accounted for maximum wastage.

PRODUCTS DEFECTS The various product defects occurring in the textile park are the following:Missing ends Double ends Broken pick Pressure drop More pick Less pick Double pick Tight end Package change When a package is changed usually variation in the fabric occurs. Multiple breaks Wrong drawing Bend pick

Black stains Oil stains These are some of the various product defects which occur in the plant.

Types of fabric The various fabric produced have different weaves. The most common ones are:Plain weave Dobby weave Dobby crammi 2/2 RHT etc. BUSINESS AT A GLANCE Manufacturing Technical Excellence Investment in State-of-the-art European technology World class Product and Design innovation Assurance of Quality and consistency

Flexible production Lower minimums Reflection of product/fashion dynamics Consistency and quality

Delivery adherence- On time every time Continuous product development- new fibers yarns and finishes Strong emphasis on design creation/modification to suit specific customer needs.

Their labs are accredited by: Marks and Spencer NEXT Levis-Strauss & Co. INVISTA (Dupont)

Spinning Winding Yarn

Dyeing

warping Sizing Weaving Grey

Inspection

Bleaching Fabric

Finishing Dyeing

Printing Finish Quality Inspection Assurance Folding and Packing Dispatching BASIC PROCESSES INVOLVED IN SHIRTING INCLUDE ARE ABOVE:--

YARN DYEING Yarns are dyed prior to weaving and the woven fabric thus obtained is a yarn dyed fabric. Dyed yarns are used in sectional warping. They get their dyes mainly from Atul industries Limited.

TYPES OF DYES USED (I) REACTIVE DYES   

Hexl (yellow, red, blue, etc.) Ramazol( vinyl sulphonic) Mct( mono chloro triazine), etc.

(II) VAT DYES    

Yellow 3 rt Brown br Olive d/grey 5607 Red 3b, etc.

DYE AUXILIARIES      

Wetting agent Dispersing agent Levelling agent Hydrogen peroxide Caustic Acetic acid

TYPES OF DYEING:-PACKAGE DYEING The term package dyeing usually denotes for dyeing of yarn that has been wound on perforated cores. This helps in forcing the dye liquor through the package. The dye liquor goes on circulating throughout the vessel and tank. This happens till all the dye is fully exhausted. The dye flows through to the yarn package with the help of the deliberate perforations in the tube package. Once full exhaustion is brought about, the carrier of coloured yarn is consequently removed from the vessel . Numbers of these kinds of machines were 76. The minimum carrying capacity for package dyeing machines is 5 kg while the maximum is 750 kg. 1 Package =1.2 kg.

Process:--

Peroxide( 900 C , 30 min. ) =>Hot wash (900 C, 10 min.)=> Acid (Room temp, 10 min.) =>EPN i.e peroxide =>Ready to dye. Timers are set in vessels which release acids/colors etc at times specified. CARRIERS There are around 200 carriers available and minimum being 5 spindles. Maximum of 25 carriers can be put on a machine with at least 5 spindles on 1 carrier. Those carriers are classified on their weight capacity. Weight (kgs) 500 300 216 168 108 72 & 60

Spindles 41 25 18 14 9 6 & 5 respectively.

BEAM DYEING Beam dyeing is simply a much larger version of package dyeing. An entire warp is wound onto perforated cylinder , which is then placed in a beam dyeing machine where f low of the dye bath alternated as in package dyeing. Beam dyeing is more economical than skein or package dyeing. It takes 9 hr. to dye once. 1-2 % shade variation may happen. The no of beam dyeing machines are 11. The maximum capacity for beam dyeing machines is 750kg.

Process:Chemical, color, salt etc are added to respective vessels and again timers are set to give calls in response to which machine acts. Chemical is kept for 10 min. => color (30 min.) =>call pfp(fixer i.e color + chemical) =>10 min. washing@ 700 C =>acid added (700C, 10 min.)=> Soaping (900 C,20 min.) For Light shades only one time soaping happens which actually helps in color fixation whereas for deep shades its done twice i.e for 40 min. Perafil-210 is added to maintain pH, for deep shade Fixogen supra is added to it.

The RFT (Right First Time) for the department is 88-90%.

WARPING MACHINE: Warping is done to prepare the warp beams which will be directly used on the loom. WARPING Warping is the initial preparatory process. In warping yarn from different small packages is converted into beam form, which is later on used on the loom for manufacturing. Yarn is rolled on the large cylindrical type beam. Direct warping is basically used for grey yarn, where we have to make large patterns. Direct warping is used in two ways: 1. Direct warping can be used to directly produce the weaver’s beam in a single operation. This is especially suitable for strong yarns that do not require sizing such as continuous filaments or monofilaments and when the number of number of warp ends on the warp beam is relatively small. This is also called direct warping. 2. Direct Warping is used to make smaller, intermediate beams called warper’s beams. These smaller beams are combined later at the slashing stage to produce the weaver’s beam. This process is called beaming.

Therefore, for example, if the weaver’s beam contains 9000 warp ends, then there would be say 9 warper’s beam of 1000 ends each.

PART -5 FINISHING SECTION

PREPARATORY UNIT-FABRIC PREPARATION

The aim of preparatory wet processing is to treat the goods by standard procedures so that they are brought to a state in which they can be dyed, printed and finished without showing any fault on fabric.

Grey fabric inspection

Mending

Batching

Rotation (8hr Washing)

Desizing

Singeing

Mercerizati on

Bleaching

GREY FABRIC INSPECTION 4 point system employed Fabric classified as grade A : 6 defects/100 m

MENDING The fabric is brought from the storage area for mending. After mending, the fabric is sent back to the storage area and then sent for re-checking.

BATCHING Fabric is sewn end to end and then batched. Spec sheets are sent to the batching in-charge, wherein it is mentioned how many meters of what fabric needs to be rolled together in one package.

SINGEING MACHINE If the fabric is to have a smooth finish, singeing is one of the first essential preparatory processes. Singeing burns of lint and threads as well as all fuzz and fiber ends, leaving an even surface before the fabric passes through other finishing processes. Singeing is accomplished by passing grey goods over gas flames, usually two burners aside at a speed of 100250 yards/min. Singeing may also be done at the yarn stage, especially when the yarns are to be used for fine quality cotton goods. Usually such yarns are fully mercerized, and singeing in this case is referred to as gassing. A roller with brushes removes the fibers on selvedge and small protruding fibers. A suction pump takes these fibers and pumps them into an air bag. This bag needs to be changed every week.        

Two burners Temperature- 1000 0 C Speed: 1m/s CNG used for burning Flames perpendicular to the fabric Pressure gauge in the machine controls the pressure 1 shift (8 hours) – 30,000m of fabric is singed Efficiency – 85%

Special rubberized rollers are used for quenching. Fabric takes 4 seconds to traverse from burners to these quenching rollers. Till this time the temperature of the fabric lowers down to 700 C. These rollers further cool the cellulosic fiber.(Each quenching roller costs 1 lakh )

Arvind mills Ltd uses Gas singeing due to following reasons –  Efficient singeing.  No local cooling problem  No hardness is produced on fabric surface

STEPS IN SINGEING:  

The fabric passes through a tension unit with guide rollers. Then fabric passes through pre-brushing unit which removes

 

dirt/dust, lint and loose fibers from the fabric. After pre-brushing, the fabric enters into the singeing chamber. Adjustable water-cooled rollers are used to obtain different fabric/flame positions, which permit desired degree of singeing



effect. A Carburetor or air/gas mixer allows automatic mixing of gas with air



to control the intensity of the singeing flame. After passing over the flames, the fabric passes through (optional) steam quenching unit.

DESIZING It is done in the same machine where singeing is done.

CHEMICALS USED   

DMCP (surfactant agent) - [Deoxycytidine monophosphate] Pulkozyme MFB (wetting agent)

Temperature – 55 °C First the fabric is desized, and then washed

Efficiency- 85% Calcium + magnesium cause problems Chelating agent is used which forms a complex with the size present in the fabric, mixes in water and gets drained off. Batching: this wet fabric is wound on batching rollers. These rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with the size present on the fabric Machine was set up in 1998

STENTERS Stenters are machines used to impart finishes on the grey fabric. In this process, smoothening out of the fabric basically takes place. It is done because after bleaching, or any wet process, the fabric gets wrinkled or creased. Stentering removes these bumps and helps in stabilizing the tension in the fabric. The fabric is stabilized 10% by stenters and rest 90% is done by mercerization. 5.1.1.1 FINISHES

There are around 42 finishes of fabrics, like easy-to-iron (ETI), nano finish, and perfume finish, mosquito repellent finish (for Belgium army), etc. The finishes done exclusively in Arvind are vitamin E (retained till 40 washes), anti-microbial, parma finish. 5.1.1.2 MAIN OPERATIONS DONE BY THE STENTER MACHINE  Padding of finishing chemical  Bow-bias correction i.e. weft straightening  Fabric width controlling  Drying

5.1.1.3 MACHINE SPECIFICATION  Manufacturer - Monforts Montex  Model No-Turbo 600M1  Capacity-600 lit (tank)  Temperature Range-80oC to 150oC  Speed-20m/min to 50 m/min

5.1.1.4 SPECIAL FEATURES Pleva sensing unit is incorporated here for setting up moisture content of fabric (%) for some special type of finish. Moisture is set by adjustment of speed and temperature by microprocessor

5.1.1.5 LIMITATION  No automation.

 No bow-bias correction.

5.1.1.6 DEFECTS MADE BY STENTER MACHINE 1. Moon mark-Improper selvedge ripping in any direction. 2. Oil stain

MERCERISATION

This is the treatment of cotton or linen yarn or fabric with concentrated caustic alkali. It has the effect of swelling the fibres, increasing their strength and dye affinity and altering the lustre and handle of the material. Mercerisers are either chain or chainless and consist of three sections, impregnation, stabilisation and washing off.

AIM OF MERCERISING:

Increase dimensional stability to avoid skewness and shrinkage. Increase chemical reactivity for dyeability. The depth of shade in turn increases and so does the lusture.Most mercerisation units have their own caustic recovery systems to help minimise waste.

Caustic soda is used of 26 Baume at 20 c for cold mercerization to improve luster. At 30-40 c hot mercerization is done. Stretching of fabric at 150-200 cms. Excess caustic soda is removed by suction. Acetic Acid is used for neutralization of caustic. CBR (Continuous Bleaching Range) : It is used for yarn dyed fabrics. Cold Bleaching is usually done for yarn dyed fabrics. The machine used is BENNINGER. Heat setting of lycra is done at 190-200 in the stenter machine. After mercerization, as per process fabric moves further to dyeing, printing or finishing department.

CURING  Main Operations done by the curing machine  To set the resins cross linking into a permanent one.  To impart anti-crease property in the fabric.

5.1.2.1 MACHINE SPECIFICATION

 No. of machine-1  Manufacturer - MONFORTS THERMEX (GERMANY)  Model - THERMEX KTDC

5.1.2.2 TECHNICAL DETAIL  Fabric length in curing chamber-160 m  No. of roller in curing chamber-48  No. of dancer roller- 3  Dancer roller pressure-2.0 bar to 2.1 bar

SANFORIZATION Sanforization is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from natural or chemical fibers. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing.

5.1.3.1 MACHINE SPECIFICATION Manufacturer- Monforts Model ¡V Monfortex Serial No.-71T68254

5.1.3.2TECHNICAL DETAILS Efficiency: 90-95% Speed ¡V 25 m/min to 60 m/min. 5.1.3.3FAULTS AND REMEDIES „h Any type of scratch on the blanket „h Water drop „h Batch crease - crease during feed or fold on crease on fabric „h Sleeve cut - tension variation between fabric body and selvedge, folded mark in selvedge or adjustment of fabric tension

Printing Printing, like dyeing, is a process for applying colour to a substrate. But instead of colouring the whole substrate, print colour is applied only to defined areas to obtain the desired pattern. Printing department caters to:  Domestic market  Exports 6.1 MACHINES USED FOR PRINTING  For production, there is 1 machine: Rotary screen printing machine.  For sampling, there are 2 machines : Baby rotary screen printing & digital printing m/c

 Hand screen printing is also employed for sampling. It is also known as strike off.  Ichinose: It is basically a Japanese machine and is used for bulk printing. 6.2 DESIGN STUDIO  At First the design is made by hand using water colours.  Then it is scanned.  Then Photoshop is used to make colour ways of that design and to bring the design to a printable form, since design made in water colour cannot be used for printing.  Now six colour ways of the same design is made.  If the design is approved, then the design code of that particular design is noted and sent to the marketing department, which then issues a spec sheet to the design department accordingly. 6.3 TYPICAL PRINTING PROCESS INVOLVES  Colour paste preparation: The dye or pigment is not in aqueous liquor; instead, it is usually finely dispersed in a printing paste, in high concentration.  Printing: The dye or pigment paste is applied to the substrate using different techniques.  Fixation: Immediately after printing, the fabric is dried and then the prints are fixed mainly with steam or hot air (for pigments).  After-treatment: This is the final operation and consists in washing and drying the fabric. 6.4 HAND SCREEN PRINTING (STRIKE OFF PROCESS)

This is a sampling process and it is done to check the outcome of the colours which come on the fabric. Screen preparation This process is used mainly for printing samples in smaller dimensions and smaller quantity which are used for checking customer approval.  Polyester paper of thickness 50 microns is used for printing sampling design. . FIG.6.1 HAND SCREEN PRINTING  Then, Bluecoat 666 Photo screen emulsion is applied on the screen and allowed to dry for 3 minutes at 270C.  Then the screen is exposed to UV light for about one minute.  The screen is then soaked in plain water for about 10-15 min and then cleaned with a jet of water to unclog the pores.  One screen is used for only one colour. The same screen can be used 7 times. Arvind has about 500 screens. Screens are produced as and when required. 6.4.1 PRINTING PROCESS  At first the print paste is prepared using binder, water and dyestuff.1 kg binder is used for every 10 g of colour.  The screen is allowed to dry and then taken to a printing table.  The table top is a sandwich of a rubber blanket, a cotton fabric and a rexin coated screen.  The fabric is then glued on to the table top. The screen is then placed over the fabric; the print paste is poured over it a spread on the fabric manually by a wooden squeegee.

6.5 ROTARY SAMPLE PRINTING MACHINE (YARDAGE PROCESS)  This is also a sampling process at a wider scale.  This is done to check the printed fabric in the garment form.  Only a single colour can be printed at a time. FIG.6.2 ROTARY SAMPLE PRINTING MACHINE 6.5.1 PREPARATION OF SCREEN  Design is created on screens with the help of these machines  The machine has got one roller of circumference 64 cm.  Screens are made of nickel and cost around Rs.5000/screen.  Roller screen is 190 cm long.  Then, it is dried in a machine for 10 -15 min at a temperature of 25°C.  The machine has a cross mark which is transferred to the screen.  CST has software which is used to print designs. The design is fed into the CST using a CD.  After the design has been printed on the screen, UV rays are emitted from the CST head. It is then washed with plain water to unclog the pores.  Next, it is heated (cured) in a machine at a temperature of 180 °C for a period of 2-3 hours.  After endering, the screen is sent for checking.  After checking, the screen is ready to be used on rotary machine.  Cost of preparation of 1 design = Rs6500/ roller (inclusive of roller cost)  Exposing cost (wax, etc) = Rs500 / roller. 6.5.2 ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING (BULK PRODUCTION)  Name of machine: ICHINOSE (JAPAN)

 No. of machine in industry: 1 6.5.3 MACHINE PARTS  Transporting roller.  Crease removing roller.  12 printing rollers.  Nickel screen. 6.5.4 FEATURES  Speed: 80 m/min.  Production: 8000m/shift.  Total no. of screen possible: 12  Machine downtime: 15 min /roller.  Machine capacity – 5 lakhs m/month 6.5.5 SCREEN ADJUSTMENT  Control panel can set screen up-down and front-back.  Beneath every screen, there is a set of magnet bars, which attracts the magnetic squeegee.  Magnetic pressure can also be controlled from the control panel 6.5.6 COLOUR FLOW  Colour flows through the inclined screen and again, colour is put into the upper portion of the screen.  There is a colour pump, which circulates the colour continuously. On reverse mode, it draws out the colour from the screen during screen cleaning operation.  Print mode and colour pump speed can be set from the control panel.

6.5.7 FAULTS  Main faults: protruding fibers and solid particles.  Occasional faults: manual error and chemical error.

Testing In ARVIND Mills, there was a separate laboratory and department dedicated to testing of the fabric. The testing used to take place according to the needs and demands of the various buyers. For example the parameters of testing are different for the ADDIDAS group whereas the level and requirement of tests is different for MARKS & SPENCER. 7.1 TESTS CARRIED OUT  Length  Uniformity  Whiteness  Impurities  Moisture content

7.1.1 THE TESTING LAB WAS DIVIDED INTO THREE PARTS  The Washing Room

 The Conditioning Room  The Dark Room

7.1.1.1 THE WASHING ROOM The washing room consisted of wascators, washing machine, colour fastness tester, dryer, different chemicals, weighing machine, wrap reel, and t.p.i tester.

7.1.1.2 THE CONDITIONING ROOM The conditioning room consisted of Lycra elongation tester, friction tester, tensile tester, crock meter, pilling tester, abrasion tester, bursting strength tester, and flask shaker. The room had a hygrograph which maintained the temperature and the humidity level of the room at a certain standard temperature which makes it easier for the buyer to approve the quality by testing the samples at the same conditions in any part of the world. 7.1.1.3 THE DARK ROOM The dark room consisted of Colour matching box to test the light fastness and color fastness of the samples through Blue Wool and Grey Scale. It also had a HOLOSCOPE for testing the pilling of the samples.

COLOR FASTNESS TESTER TEST PRINCIPLE – The test specimen is stitched with one piece of test fabric and put into washing liquid. Rotated under a certain temperature for a certain time, and then washed with distilled water and dried. Color

change of specimen and staining of test fabric is assessed with AATCC or ISO gray scale. The test fabric is generally multifiber test fabric (8mm bands) consisting of bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon and wool. The test specimen is put in the canisters containing wash liquor and steel balls. The canisters are placed in washer. The washer is filled with water and canister preheated for 2min. And then it is rotated for 45min at 40rpm.

Machine Details:  Model: SW-12W  CANISTER AMOUNT AND SIZE: 12500 ml, 75 × 125mm  ROATATION SPEED: 40 rpm  TIME RANGE: 0~999min.  TEMPERATURE RANGE: 0~100  SIZE AND WEIGHT: 935 × 690 × 910mm, 165kg Tensile TENSILE TESTING MACHINE Model No: A-ATTM500 It is based on the Constant Rate of Traverse (CRT) principle. The sample is held between two jaws; the upper one is a stationary jaw while the other end is made to move at a known fixed speed with the help of Motor, Gear Box and Lead Screw arrangement (100mm or 300mm per minute). The load exerted on the Stationary jaw is sensed by a sensor connected with load cell which directly indicates the load in Digital form in kg.

GSM CUTTER GSM cutters are used to determine the GSM of knitted, woven and nonwoven fabrics. They are easy to operate and proved to provide accurate results. Below mentioned are the sizes, in which it is offered:  13 mm  38 mm  140 mm COLOUR MATCHING CABINET The visual colour matching cabinet is extremely useful for evaluating an assortment of colours under different kinds of lights. The result helps the clients understand the dynamics of reflection on textiles. The colour matching cabinet is fabricated as per the industrial norms and is manufactured using only high grade raw material, its range is offered in the following varieties : 7.3 INSPECTION 100 % inspection of fabrics is done (visually) which is supplied after assurance from the QA lab. Arvind follows a 4 point system in which defects are given points: 0 to 3‟‟ – 1 point 3 to 6‟‟ – 2 point 6 to 9 „‟ – 3 point 9‟‟ and above – 4 point Tag system is followed for the marking of defects:  A 4- point weft defect is marked with a yellow tag

 Continuous defect in warp is marked by a red tag

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