Aromatic Artistry 5 17 Fragrance Facets

 

Fragrance Facet Accords Hesperidic Facet Accords Hesperidic Accord Bergamot Petit-grain, Bergamot Blood Orange Kaffir Lime Leaf Orange, Wild Mandarin, Green Tangerine +/-

10 10 10 10 5 5 2

Neroli Petit-grain Sur Fleur

10

Rosewood Ylang

5 2

Frankincense

10

Additional +/Benzoin Resin Vetiver

1 1

To Add a “Green” Galbanum

1-5

To Add a “Leafy Green” Violet Leaf

1-5

To Add a little “Spiciness” Tulsi

1-5

To Add a little “Warm Spiciness”, consider Cinnamon, Bark 1 Cinnamon, Leaf

1-2

 

Sweet Floral Hesperidic Accord Grapefruit, Ruby Red Grapefruit, Pink Rosewood Ylang

10 10 10 5

**All of the above +/- can apply here, as well Juicy-Jammy Hesperidic Accord Yuzu Jasmine Fir, Balsam, Absolute

30 10 10 Japanese Yuzu Accord

Yuzu Lemon Orange, Wild Ginger

10 5 5 2

**Fir Balsam Absolute can be added to any of the above accords to add a bit of a deep “juiciness” to Hesperidic Accords, as well as to help to anchor down the ingredients a little with it’s Base Note properties. **Any Sandalwood, or JK’s Sandalwood Accord can be used in the same fashion—to help fix the volatile materials and extend their life in a fragrance a little bit, especially if set aside to age together for several months. **Just a touch of various florals, like Jasmine, Rose, Ylang, Neroli,  etc. can be added to introduce a touch of Lavender Absolute,  etc. voluptuousness to that bright, shiny Hesperidic Accord. Ylang and Jasmine, in particular, are great to do this with, as well as Neroli or Neroli Petitgrain Sur Fleur. Fleur. Just a touch, mind you. Too much, and it will begin to smell more floral…unless that’s what you’re going for. =) **Using Bergamot + Petit-grain Bergamot is a great way to add a shiny olfactory quality that extends well beyond using just Bergamot by itself.

 

** Litsea cubeba can also be added to add a bit of a fruitier note to the already fruity citri. An Interesting Property of Bergamot’s There is some belief that Bergamot, when used in very large quantities, also begins to have a bit of a fixative property. To give an example from the first Accord: Bergamot

250

The rest of the Accord, which I might possibly double or triple the amounts: Petit-grain, Bergamot Blood Orange Kaffir Lime Leaf Orange, Wild Mandarin, Green Tangerine !We

10 10 10 5 5 2

20 20 20 10 10 4

30 30 30 15 15 6

also see this, in theory, when making a Chypre, where both Oakmoss and Bergamot, together, form the core of the Fragrance Family. The Bergamot, in this instance, is believed to serve as a Base Note, and also to acquire some fixative properties in such large dosages.

 

Aromatic Accords Gin Accords These recipes are taken from a book for those wanting to distill their own liquors. Of course,value, there and ingredients, that have no fragrance aare nd some are there for their their like taste,Grains only. of SoParadise, look through, and keep that in mind.  All gins include juniper as an ingredient along with other botanicals. bo tanicals. Typically a fine gin contains 6-10 botanicals, although the Dutch Damask Gin has 17 and the French Citadelle Gin has 19 but this could be more for marketing reasons and has been criticized for lacking direction.  Botanical names:  Juniper - juniperus communis commun is Coriander - coriandrum sativum  Angelica - archangelica officinalis Cassia - cinnamomum cassia Cinnamon - cinnamomum zeylanicum Ciquorice - glycyrrihiza sp.  Bitter Almond - prunus dulcis, amara Grains of Paradise - afromumum melegueta **Not a Perfume Ingredient   Bubeb Berries - piper cubeba  Bitter Orange - citrus aurantium Sweet Orange - citrus sinensis  Lemon - citrus limon Ginger - zingiber officinale Orris Root - iris florentina Cardamon - elletaria cardamomum  Nutmeg - myristica fragrans Savory - satureja hortensis Calamus - acorus calamus Chamomile - matricaria chamomilla

 

**I’ll leave these recipes in their original formats. Just take into account the grams that they are given in, and substitute for drops/mL/or grams, if weighing out your ingredients. The important thing here for us— us—is is the ratios of the ingredients. From: 'The Book of Gin & Vodkas', Bob Emmons 

 BASIC GIN  Juniper 22.5g Coriander 11.5g Cassia 2.5g  Angelica root 2.5g  Lemon peel 0.25g Cardamom 0.25g

 BRITISH GIN  Juniper 15g Coriander 15g  Bitter Almonds 12g  Angelica Root 0.25g  Liquorice Root 1g

CORDIAL GIN #1  Juniper 10g Coriander 7.5g  Bitter Almonds 1.5g Orris Root 0.25g  Angelica Root 0.25g Cardamom 0.06g  Liquorice Root 1g

CORDIAL GIN #2  Juniper 10g Coriander 7.5g Orris Root 0.25g  Angelica Root 0.125g Calamus Root 0.25g Cardamom 0.05g

 

 FINE GIN  Juniper 10g Coriander 0.5g Grains of Paradise 0.5g  Angelica Root 0.5g Orris Root 0.25g Calamus Root 0.25g Orange Peel 0.25g  Liquorice root 10g (optional) (op tional)

 LONDON GIN  Juniper 10g Coriander 10g  Bitter Almonds 1g  Angelica Root 0.25g  Liquorice Root 1g

 BASIC GENEVA GENEV A  Juniper 10g Coriander 12g Cassia 0.6g  Angelica Root 0.5g Calamus Root 0.6g  Bitter Almonds 1.2g Cardamom 0.05g

 PLAIN GENEVA  Juniper 10g Coriander 10g Calamus root 0.25g  Bitter Almonds 0.5g Orris Root 0.25g

 

 FINE GENEVA (highly recommended)  Juniper 20g Coriander 8g  Angelica Root 1g Calamus Root 0.25g  Bitter Almonds 3g Cardamom 0.125g Grains of Paradise 1g

 

Absinthe Accords All of us have heard of some of the uses of Absinthe, particularly with the Impressionistic Painters of France. In high doses, I’m sure some of the psychogenic properties could begin taking effect. Take also into account tthe he older methodsyears, of distillation, have a bit inHungary the last hundred-plus much thewhich same as thechanged way we quite are making Water differs quite drastically from the product of old that was distilled, rather than a blending of essences, as we are doing it today. Take note of just how hypnotic these blends can be—wonderful little Accords for perfumers like you and me! Notes on the Psychopharmacology of Absinthe As a Chinese Medical Practitioner, I occasionally get folks asking me about the effects of Absinthe. What are these effects? I describe them as a cross between pot, ecstasy, cocaine, strong coffee, and vodka—but only when consumed in large doses. The stuff sold in stores today is much sweeter, and less herbal-tasting than the Absinthes sold in yesteryear… Thujone, one of the active ingredients in Wormwood, is discussed oftentimes as being a “liver toxin.” High doses can do some Liver damage…but that will not be an issue in perfumery doses. I think there may be more to the effects of Absinthe than thujone, namely the highly-complex synergistic effect of a psychoactive cocktail—that of several essences blended together. At least…this is what we hope for! Other ingredients in the recipes have their own reputations. Angelica Root is labeled as a drug in Finland. Anise and Fennel Seed both contain potentially psychoactive anethole. Caraway Seeds are reputed aphrodisiacs, and form the basis of the German liqueur, Kummel. Coriander is mentioned as an aphrodisiac in the Arabian Thousand Thousan d and One Nights , and is said to conjure up the devil when used in combination with Fennel in the same text (sounds like together, they very strongly stir the Emotions! Let’s get crazy!).

 

Other recipes call for Hops, a sedative and hypnotic, and Calamus Root, which contains psychoactive asarones, used as an inebriant by Native Americans. And then there is the Hyssop, a nervine. !Add

it all up, and it sounds to me like one heck of an effect to have in a perfume! L.  “Grand Wormwood” · Artemisia · Artemisia absinthium L.  The wormwood plant (Grande plant (Grande Wormwood that is – not to be confused with Petite Wormwood, or common wormwood or mugwort) is the constituent that pretty much defines Absinthe. It is bitter in taste and contains an oily substance called thujone – and, of course, it is thujone that is responsible for the unusual Absinthe effects. **Make sure to be using “True” Grand Wormwood, and not Mugwort. Absinthe Accord #1 Wormwood Hyssop Calamus Root Fennel Seed Mint Cloves Coriander Nutmeg Star Anise

75 15 12 4 1 1 1 1 0.25 Absinthe Accord #2

Wormwood Angelica Root Hyssop Anise Fennel Coriander Caraway Cardamom

60 10 10 10 10 5 2.5 1

 

Absinthe Accord # 3 Wormwood Peppermint Thyme Hyssop Sage, White Lavender Marjoram Cognac

25 5-10 *For more Mintiness 10 10 10 10 10 25 AROMA ENHANCING Materials for Absinthe:  Absinthe: 

Melissa (Melissa officinalis L.)—also L.)—also known as Lemon Balm—adds citrus scent to absinthe and causes some of the drink's typical green coloration. Practitioners of natural medicine note that Melissa infusions have a calming effect. L.), together with Coriander, adds a Roman Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis L.), background crisp and spicy aroma to Absinthe. Similar to Melissa, Roman Chamomile is noted for its calming properties and is used in aromatherapy as a relaxant. L.) is sometimes known as small Roman wormwood (Artemisia pontica L.) is Absinthe. Unlike Artemisia absinthium—its thujone-rich relative—  Artemisia pontica is not bitter. Sometimes called green ginger, this herb is used primarily for colour and second-step aroma. Mint (Menta piperita L.) Peppermint! L.) Peppermint! May be added in small quantities for its aromatic quality. Veronica (Veronica officinalis L.) is L.) is used to add a light spicy note to the scent and also to deepen the green colour of absinthe.

 

“Enhanced” Absinthe Accord #4 Wormwood Hyssop Calamus Melissa Anise Fennel Anise Coriander Mint Citrus of Choice Liquorice

30 8.5 1.8 6 30 25 10 3.2 4.2 10 4.2

**Keep in mind that I am adjusting these Absinthe Accords based on various recipes for making the the liquor. This last reci recipe, pe, in particular, is not in whole numbers. Either adjust properly for your ease—or measure out by weight, which will give a beautiful Accord.

 

Bay Rum Accords Bay Rum is an interesting ingredient, and making Bay Rum Accords (or Bay Rum splash colognes) has a very interesting history. For fans of the Pirates of the Carribean mythology…these fragrances are actually the descendants of real Pirate’s fragrances! Made popular initially because the fragrance of Rum was found to compliment the new West Indian Spice Islands materials, which were planted to give easier access to some of the spices from the East. Sailors in the Carribean began blending raw materials into Rum, and began using these Rums both as beverage, and also as splash colognes on the face (replacing ( replacing Rum for Vodka as the medium). medium). There is a commercial company called Royall  called Royall  that  that makes some great commercial fragrances for those wanting to see how a Bay Rum Perfume “should” smell. I’m going to include some information from their company page about their products before introducing a few recipes for making your own Bay Rum Accords!

 

http://www.royalllymebermuda.com/our-origins   http://www.royalllymebermuda.com/our-origins

 Bermuda and Roy Royall all History Intertwined Spaniard Juan de Bermudez discovered the 300-island archipelago of Bermuda, 600 miles east of the Carolinas, in 1511. Many years later, when the British began settlement of this island, did they know what they had found? Most probably yes, because the imagery of treasure has been associated with the island going back to colonial times. 

 Bermuda - The “J “Jewel ewel in the Atlan Atlantic” tic” Bermuda has been called a “Jewel in the Atlantic”, its elliptical island chain has been repeatedly referred to as a “string of pearls.” So, yes it is a treasure, but why? Because it is a semi-tropical paradise where there is romance, adventure, history, culture, civility, excitement, an Anglo-African heritage, not to mention pristine beaches, pink sand, turquoise seas, iridescent lagoons, verdant landscapes, candy-colored homes, breath-taking sunrises, fabulous sunsets, and brilliant, aromatic flora.   No wonder Mark Twain wrote, “You go to heaven if you want-I’d rather go to Bermuda.” So many more have followed, from Eleanor Roosevelt and Eugene O’Neill to Michael Douglas and David Bowie. Fifty years ago Mr. Anthony Gaade, founder and first president of The Royall Family of Fragrances felt the need to capture the essence and spirit of Bermuda in a fragrance line of aromatic products to share with the island and the rest of the world. 

 Anthony J. Gaade Gaad e

And so it was that Mr. Gaade, a renowned Bermudian yachtsman and competitor in international races; through vision and tenacity, brought the very first Royall fragrance to market in 1957.   Royall Lyme fragrance is made from the plumpest freshest, native West Indian limes. It is nurtured and washed by pure island rains in rains  in a recipe that traces its origins to a very old Caribbean formula obtained from Harbor Islanders. Islanders. The secret formula of rare essences has a total of 78 ingredients.. The resulting Royall Lyme is cool, zestful and refreshing, as ingredients perfect for the work place as it is for play. 

 

 Royall Lyme, L yme, an instant success suc cess Royall Lyme, was heartily endorsed by former Bermuda Governor, Sir Edwin Leather and was presented to the British Royal Family on their last official visit to Bermuda.  In 1960, when Royall Lyme was introduced at Brooks Brothers New York, it was an unqualified smash hit. The fragrance is still sold there today. Not long after, Royall Lyme went international to London, Milan, and beyond.  Following Royall Lyme, Mr. Gaade created other fragrances which capture the essence of Bermuda. Royall Spyce, Royall Bay Rhum and Royall Muske. The Royall Mandarin fragrance joined the other successful family scents in 2001 followed by Royall Vetiver in 2006 and finally Royall Rugby in 2011. 

 Royall Fragrance F ragrancess Even Mr. Gaade’s original packaging for the Royall Family of fragrance reveals his desire to keep the Bermuda theme. The handsome packaging is reminiscent of the Bermuda of old. The bottles are of semi-hand-made glass from original clay molds with antimonial pewter-colored lead crown caps. Molded on each bottle is a crown and lime cluster with the words ‘ROYALL LYME’ and on the bottom of the bottle ‘ROYALL LYME LIMITED’. Each bottle has the fragrance name and crown in raised glass on the back, with a distinctive colored labels on the front.  Each fragrance bottle is individually wrapped in fine parchment with a crown wax seal. These seals are made with the same wax used by the Bank of England. every piece. Quality standards of care and attention to detail are found in

 Mr. Gaade's Gaad e's vision become becomess a reality Mr. Gaade’s original vision is today a reality. The essence and spirit of Bermuda, sparkling jewel and garden paradise, reside in every Royall product. Mr.Gaade says, “In the Royall Family Fragrance, we believe we have a truly unique range of prestigious gentlemen’s toiletries and grooming aids directed to the discerning user and carrying the Bermuda message overseas.”

 

!A

pretty cool story, isnt’ it!?

**Keep in mind, if browsing through their webpage, that what we call a “Splash Cologne” was, historically, called a “Lotion.” You’ll see this on their products pages, so don’t be confused. A review of Royall Lyme from Basenotes.net: http://www.basenotes.net/ID26121402.html  http://www.basenotes.net/ID26121402.html  

“True to its name, Royall Lyme starts with a strong lime blast. It is refreshing--fruity and  juicy without without being candy-like candy-like.. It evokes all all parts of a lime, the aromatic rind, the juice and the pulp. I would not say it is sweet necessarily, but a balance of sweet, tart and bitter. The juicy part of the opening fades rather quickly, but the bitter lime rind lingers, and is joined by subtle spices (clove, cinnamon), bay, and sweet resins (benzoin).   Eventually, RL starts to take on a dry floral powder note which I would guess to be orris. From time to time, I catch whiffs of lime rind, which adds a pleasant, slightly sour edge. I have only tried one other Royall fragrance, and with RL, I am starting to see that this house tends to produce non-fussy, straightforward and classic cologne water. Royall seems to have a house base, which consists of resins, bay and spices with faintly present floral notes. It is very pleasant, and is fresh and clean smelling without being soapy. The bay note does add a "barbershop" sense to the composition, but in RL, the bay is quite subdued. This is preferable since to my nose, bay can easily hijack a fragrance-as a single note it is strong and long-lasting, so I appreciate the deft use of it in RL. RL was originally intended for men, but its overall balance of fruit, floral and muted bay/resin base makes this very wearable for a woman. As with most cologne waters, the longevity is rather poor, but most of these types of scents were intended as an after bath or aftershave freshener. Total development took 3-4 hours, and the deep drydown is soft bay, benzoin and a bit of sweet powder .” !Giving

you any ideas yet??

**For those lovers of Old Spice—the old formulations, not the new junk that is currently in production…Old Spice is in this vein of Bay Rum formulations. Good stuff!!

 

Bay Rum Accord #1 Black Current Bay Rum, Jamaican Geranium, Egypt Geranium, France Patchouli Vetiver

10 5-10 5 5 5 5

**This Accord could function as a simple stand-alone fragrance

Bay Rum Accord #2 Bergamot Bay Rum, Jamaican Lavender Lemon Clove EO Clove Abs/CO2 Allspice EO Allspice Abs/CO2 Neroli Neroli Petit-grain sur Fleur Orange Blossom Abs Orange Rosemary 

50 50 50   10 10 5 5 5 5 10 10 5 10 10

Carnation Cedar, Virginia Orris Root Tonka  Labdanum Benzoin Angelica Oakmoss

5 5 5-10 *Depending on how powdery 20 10 10 5 5

**This Accord could function as a stand-alone fragrance

 

Bay Rum Accord #3 Bay Rum, Jamaican Bergamot Juniper Berry Lavender Orange Rosemary EO Rosemary Abs Allspice Cinnamon Abs Benzoin Vetiver

25 25 10 10 5 5 5 5 5 5 5  5  Bay Rum Accord #4

Bay Rum, Jamaican Orange Clove Allspice Benzoin

4 2 1 1 1

**Look into adding some Tobacco Abs into your Bay Rum  formulations…adds a distinctively masculine note to any BR Accord!

Other Aromatic Accords Shiso & Ginger Sushi Accord Perilla/Shiso Lemon Ginger Benzoin

10 4 2 1

 

Ice Accord  Accord  Peppermint Eucalyptus Spearmint Wintergreen +/Petit-grain

10 5 2 2 10 Olbas Oil, Ice Accord

**There’s a neat little product that’s not intended for use in perfuming, but I find use for it every once in awhile. It’s called Olbas Oil, Oil, and is a blend of: Peppermint Eucalyptus Cajeput Wintergreen Juniper Berry Clove !You

can try to make your own blend, if you’d like. Just go and purchase a bottle, and use that as your reference point for finding your own Ice Accord that you can use both in your fragrances, as well as functionally on your body! =) Herbaceous Top Accord Rosemary EO Geranium Hyssop Hops CO2 Basil Tulsi Lavender EO Davana

3 2 2 2 1 1 1 1

 

Sensual Narcotic Accords Tuberose Accord Tuberose Tonka Vanilla CO2 Patchouli Sandalwood Galbanum

1 1 1 4 4 0.25

+/Cool Floral Tempering Accord

0.5

**Recipe, below

Tonka and Vanilla to soften and sweeten the intensity of Tuberose. Patchouli’s herbaceousness to balance. Galbanum to impart a green stem from the fresh flower. Sandalwood to hold it all together.

Jasmine and Magnolia Accord (from JK’s Antebellum Perfume) Magnolia Lily Lavender Seville Abs Champa CO2 Linden Blossom Abs @ 30% Rosemary CO2 Jas Auriculatum Jasmine Sambac CO2 +/Cool Floral Tempering Accord

3 2 4 4 2 3 3

0.5

**Recipe, below

 

Fresh Floral Accords Lily of the Valley Doppelganger Accord **Same recipe, but quantities are reformatted from the PDF Frankincense EO

4

Galbanum

1

EO

Cabreuva EO

32

White Champa Leaf EO

16

Rose Otto/Ruh Gulab

2

Jasmine grandiflorum Abs

8

Magnolia Lily CO2

8

Champa CO2

4

Tagetes EO

4

Davana EO

4

Ylang Abs

4

Ylang Complete EO

4

Bergamot EO

16

(or Violet Leaf Abs)

(or Ylang Extra, or Ylang Abs)

 

Powdery Floral Accords Hazy Accord Carrot Seed Vanilla CO2 25% Vanillin

10 1

Hazy Floral Accord Carrot Seed Cassie Vanilla CO2 25% Vanillin

10 2 1

+/- Any Florals: Rose Abs Jasmine Abs

1-3 1-3 Powdery Carrot-Orris Accord

Carrot Seed Orris @ 10 or 15% Irone !Makes

for a fantastic Pre-fixed alcohol blend

+/Champa Leaf EO !Adds

3 1

1

a bit of leafy-powderiness to the Carrot-Orris Powder Accord Pre-fixing

Try pre-fixing some Orris (Irones @ 15%) and using that as your alcohol. You’ll love the soft, powdery quality it lends to any fragrance!

 

Cool Floral Accords Powdery Cool Accord Carrot Seed Cassie Rose Geranium

10 3 2 Cool Floral Tempering Accord

!To

be added for it’s moderating effects to a Narcotic Floral Accord

Rose de Mai Damask Rose Rose Geranium

1 1 3

Fruity Facet Accords Pipe Tobacco Black Current Bud Abs Tobacco Abs Vanilla Abs or CO2 Tonka Bean Abs

1 1 0.5 0.5

Peach-Apricot Aldehydic Accord Kaffir Lime Leaf Petit-grain Bergamot Osmanthus Tonka Bean Litsea cubeba

4 4 2 1 1

+/Grapefruit, Ruby Red Grapefruit, Pink Rosewood

2 2 1

 

Apricot-Osmanthus Accord Osmanthus Champa, White Jasmine sambac Mandarin, Red Cassia

2 8 4 12 1 Asian Garden Accord

Osmanthus Mandarin, Red Cinnamon, Bark Abs Anise Pine Abs Lotus, Pink Magnolia Lily CO2 Patchouli Sandalwood

8 60 1 2 8 8 15 15 15

+/Tonka

10

 

Gourmand Accords Gourmand Ideas Black Pepper + Florals = Spicy Florals Chocolate + Patchouli = Gourmand Aphrodesiac Chocolate + Rose Chocolate + Citrus Chocolate + Florals = Edible Flowers Chocolate + Coffee + Vanilla = Nose’gasm Chocolate + Peppermint = Peppermint Bark Vanilla + Annnnnything! Mmm Mmm Good! =) Ginger + Florals = a Warm, Heated Floral **Patchouli, Vetiver, Benzoin, and Labdanum I find compliment Gourmand Accords very nicely.

Cinnamon Leaf EO Cinnamon Bark EO Cinnamon Bark Abs Cinnamon Bark CO2 +/Cassia EO

Nutmeg EO Nutmeg CO2 +/Mace (Nutmeg Skin)

Cinnamon Vertical Accord 10 10 5 5 5 Nutmeg Vertical Accord 1 1 1

 

Allspice Accord *Smells of several different spices: ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon—and invaluable material! Allspice EO Allspice CO2

1 1

+/- EO’s and CO2/Abs combined: Ginger Nutmeg Coriander Cinnamon Bark

2 1 1 1

 

Green Facet Accords Green Leafy Citrus Accord Citrus Ingredients Petit-grain Champa Leaf

10 2 1 Leafy-Powdery Carrot-Orris Accord

Carrot Seed Orris @ 10 or 15% Irone Champa Leaf EO

3 1 1 Flower Bouquet Accord

Rose Rosewood Jasmine Frangipani Champaca Champa Leaf Violet Leaf Tonka Bean Sandalwood Oakmoss Vanilla

10 10 10 5 5 10 5 10 20 1 1

+/Carrot Seed Orris Galbanum

5 1 2

 

Fresh Spicy Facet Accords Afghan Tea Accord Cardamom Sandalwood Tonka Bean

3 10 3

+/Litsea cubeba Ylang Orange Rosewood Laurel Osmanthus

1 1 1 1 1 1 Fresh Spicy Ideas

Ginger/Galangal + Florals Ginger/Galangal + Citrus Coriander + Florals Coriander + Champa Leaf Thai Thom Yum Accord Bergamot Lime Galangal Coriander (which is Cilantro Seed) Cilantro Lemongrass Black Pepper Sandalwood Carrot Seed +/-

25 5 5 2 2 5 1 10 1

Agarwood *To give it that Animalic “Fish Sauce”2smell.

 

Hot Spicy Facet Accords Spicy Wood Accord Allspice Black Pepper Cinnamon Abs Cabrueva Sandalwood

2 1 1 10 10 Spicy Floral Accord

Floral of Choice Black Pepper Clove Nutmeg CO2 Sandalwood Cabrueva

10 0.25 1 1 5 5 Spicy Woods Accord

Nutmeg Allspice Sandalwood

1 2 10

+/Vanilla Guaiacwood

1 1 Spicy Rose Accord

Rose de Mai Abs Damask Rose Abs Rose Otto Black Pepper Clove

10 8 2 1 1

 

Spicy Ideas

Black Pepper + Florals Black Pepper + Clove + Rose &/or Florals Allspice + Florals Cassia + Cinnamon Bark Nutmeg + Mace (the skin of the Nutmeg)

 

Moss Facet Accords Sexy Grr Accord Oakmoss Cedarmoss Patchouli

1 1 5 Masculine Wood Accord

Oakmoss Abs Sandalwood Cedar, Virginia

1 4 10 Mossy-Citrusy Chypre Base Accord

Oakmoss Bergamot Patchouli Tangerine Lime Fir, Balsam, Abs

10 10 5 5 3 2 Green Velvet Accord

Sandalwood

10

Vetiver Oakmoss

1 1

Tincturing Tincturing these materials individually in 190 Proof Alcohol produces an interesting Alchemical reaction. Try using these tinctured materials in place of a full strength drop, and notice how a fragrance can change with a drop of the tincture in place of a drop of the full strength material. Oakmoss Abs Patchouli EO

@ 10% @ 10%

Cedarmoss Abs Pinemoss Abs

@ 5-10% @ 5-10%

 

Wood Facet Accords Blonde Woods Accord Amyris Mahuhu Buddhawood

5 3 2

+/Cabrueva

2 Incense Cedar Accord

Frankincense Cedar, Virginia !Gives

1 1

a unique, citrusy-woody incense note—quite yummy! Sacred Wood Accord

Sandalwood Agarwood

20 1 Incense Wood Accord

Frankincense

10

Cedar, Virginia Sandalwood Rosewood Patchouli

10 10 3 2

 

Tibetan Incense Wood Accord Fir, Silver Fir, Templin Cinnamon, Bark EO Cinnamon, Leaf Clove Nutmeg CO2/Abs Cardamom CO2/Abs Saffron CO2 Frankincense Cedar, Himalayan Cedar, Virginia Ambrette

8 4 1 8 2 4 4 8 16 20 12 12

+/Choya Nakh Agarwood Nagarmotha

1 12 12

*Smoke Note Note *Sacred Wood *Rooty Wood Note

Australian Wood Accord Buddhawood Australian Sandalwood

1 1

 

Soft Balsamic Facet Accords Custard Accord Cistus Tonka Bean Vanilla

1 1 0.25 Creamy Sandalwood #1 Accord

Sandalwood Tonka Bean Labdanum

10 2 0.5 Creamy Sandalwood #2 Accord

Sandalwood Tonka Bean Vanilla

10 2 0.5 Incredibly Creamy Sandalwood # 3

Sandalwood, Santalum album  Sandalwood, Australian Sandalwood, Vanuatu Amyris

10 5 5 5

Myrrh Balsam of Peru Vanilla CO2 Vanilla Abs Sea Buckthorn CO2

2 2 2 1 1

 

Soft Balsamic Facet Accords Simple Amber Accord Fossilized Amber Oil Liquidambar (Styrax) Sandalwood Frankincense Cedar, Himalayan Labdanum Patchouli Vetiver Black Pepper EO

3 5 10 5 5 5 5 5 1 Compound Amber Accord

Fossilized A Agarwood CO2 Liquidambar (Styrax) Davana Nagarmotha Sandalwood Frankincense CO2 Myrrh Spikenard Cedar, Himalayan Cedar, Atlas

3 3 5 8 10 8 2 3 10 10

Cardamom Ginger CO2CO2 Black Pepper CO2 Labdanum Patchouli Vetiver Sea Buckthorn CO2

5 5 2 10 10 5 1

 

Pre-fixation Accord **Great pre-fixed alcohol for a Floral Perfume. !For

every Liter of 190 Proof Alcohol, add 1mL of each.

Benzoin Tonka Bean Labdanum Vanilla

1 1 1 1

 

Resinous Balsamic Facet Accords Dry Desert Air Accord *Juniper Co-distillation from Floracopeia !This

is a single extraction that is a Co-distillation of Juniper Leaf with the Copal Resin, and to me, smells like the dry, desert air of the American Southwest. An Accord in-and-of itself! American Incense Accord Copal Frankincense Opoponax

5 2 1

+/Palo Santo

1 Oriental Incense Accord

Sandalwood Frankincense Abs Frankincense EO Vetiver Cinnamon Bark

10 15 5 5 1 Resinous Coniferous Accord

Fir, Grand EO Fir, Templin EO Spruce, Blue Abs Cypress Fir, Balsam, Abs Frankincense EO

2 2 1 2 1 1

 

  Resinous Amber Accord Basic: Benzoin Resin Liquidambar (Styrax) Labdanum Cistus

1 1 2 1

More Complex: +/Resinous Accord Modifier

1

Resinous Accord Modifier Vetiver

4

Frankincense Cedarwood, Virginia Patchouli Ambrette Angelica

2 2 1 1 1

 

Powdery Balsamic Facet Accords **Orris will be a solid or semi-solid waxy material. !I

suggest “thinning it out” with JK’s Sandalwood Accord, or, if you’d like to “cut” it with some Carrot Seed EO, that could work nicely, as well. I recommend sticking with an Orris that is a minimum of 10% Irones. 15% would be even better. **Orris products that are lower than 10% are usually blended with a carrier oil to make them more affordable. These work OK for oil and solid perfumes…but do not work well in French-style perfumes, as they are usually blended with non-alki soluble oils like Jojoba or Almond Oil. Creamy Powder Accord Sandalwood Orris Tonka

10 2 1 Vanilla Powder Accord

Sandalwood Orris Benzoin

10 5 2

Vanilla

1 Powdery Blonde Accord

Amyris Mahuhu Cabrueva Sandalwood Orris

10 10 5 5 1-5

 

Sandalwood Hay Abs Tonka Carrot Seed Orris Fenugreek CO2 Genet/Broom Abs

Powdery New Mown Hay Accord 10 5 3 2 2 1 1 Powdery Ideas

Orris/Carrot + Florals = Powdery Florals Orris/Carrot + Citrus = Powdery Citrus

 

Animalic Facet Accords Cumin !I

suggest tincturing some Cumin Abs down to 2%. At this small of a dilution, you’ll be able to get a clearer sense of its “sweat” note. If wanting to stay Alcohol-Free, I suggest diluting Cumin Abs into JK’s Sandalwood Accord down to a 2% dilution. Musky Accord

Labdanum Ambrette Angelica Cumin @ 2%

10 0.5 0.5 1 Musky Chypre Accord

Bergamot Patchouli Oakmoss Lime Sandalwood Labdanum Ambrette Angelica

48 32 24 16 16 12 4 1 Kewdra Musk

Sandalwood Kewdra Agarwood, Assam Ambrette

25 10 3 0.5

*An Indian Floral

 

Davana Musk Sandalwood Davana Agarwood, Assam Ambrette

25 10 3 0.5 Rose Musk

Sandalwood Rose, Damask Rose de Mai Beeswax Abs Jasmine sambac Abs Jasmine grand Abs Ylang Abs

25 20 10 10 5 5 3

Agarwood Ambrette Seed

5 2

*An Animalic Indian Floral