Apparel Internship Report TCNS Limited Noida

SUMMER INTERNSHIP PROJECT REPORT AT TCNS LIMITED, NOIDA C-28, Sector 59, Near MAMURA CHOWK

Akshita C-2811 Fashion technology • INTRODUCTION TCNS Limited Public Limited firm since 1972, TCNS Ltd. is headed by Mr. Onkar Singh Pasricha, having their corporate office in Saket (Delhi) and manufacturing units in Noida, Chennai and Dhaka respectively. The company is one of the leading manufacturer and exporter of various kinds of garments such as tops, knit wears, woven garments, sweaters, bottoms, ladies wear, polo shirts, skirts, night dresses etc. The products are easy to maintain and comfortable to wear. TCNS Ltd. makes their products according to customer‘s specification and new fashion. It is exporting to all the major retailers and importers globally, having efficient Quality Manufacturing Facilities and World Class Services in India and Bangladesh. The company assures good quality, competitive price and timely delivery. The firm provides a high price / value equation & excels in product development, process management, client servicing & quick response. The piece goods sourcing renders the end product very versatile. TCNS Ltd. believes in Excellence, Quality and Leadership. TCNS Ltd. has a domestic brand named ―W‖, which offers fashion leadership in the women‘s segment through a signature ‗fusion‘ design language which reflects an Indian essence imbued with modernity. Year Of Establishment

1972

Nature Of Company

Public Limited

Sales Turnover

$45 million

Volume / Production Capacity

5 million units/annum

Products

Skirt, Sweater, Woven Garment, Uniforms, Bottoms,

Ladies Wear, Night Dresses (Sleep Wear), Tank Top, T-Shirts, Baby Wear, Blouse, Hoodie, Kaftan, Polo Shirt, Rompers, Casual Wear, Knit Wear, Maternity Cloth, Pajamas, Sweatshirt, Tops, Vest, Denim Wear, Trouser, Capri, Children Wear, Dress, Jeans

ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE

The company produces nearly 20,000 design and colours of suiting fabric, that have found their way in over 55 countries including the European Union, USA, Canada, Japan and Australia

among others. Even as our products evolve with the times, the brand still caters to the different faces of 'The Complete Man'- a man who is caring, sensitive and places a huge premium on relationships The company's engagement with the customer works on multiple dimensions right from developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a wide selection of fabric for all occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The TCNS Shops at convenient locations all over India and the Middle East. As an integrated player, we provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from manufacturing worsted, woollen and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and apparel.

• THEIR BRAND

W‘ For Woman W mirrors the new age Indian woman. Rooted at home and taking on the world with panache, playing myriad of roles with élan and taking on the challenges in her stride. The brand grew out of the need of contemporary Indian woman for innovative ready to wear that combine fashion and functionality. With a unique design sensibility, the Indian Salwar-kameez was transformed into its chic & urbane - yet comfortable form. This was the first such attempt at reinventing Indian fashion. W has added a line up of fusion wear comprising trousers, skirts, tunics, tops and tees along with an exciting winter outer wear line. Today W is the only national brand providing total wardrobe solution under one roof to the modern Indian woman. With an aim to provide fashion in a modern retail environment to the Indian woman, W set up its first Brand Store in Delhi in 2002-03 in Lajpat Nagar. The W stores are designed in line with the brand identity - spirited, contemporary and innovative to lend a pleasurable shopping experience. Today W has 51 Brand Stores and a total of 500 touch points across India. W offers fashion leadership in the segment through a signature „Fusion‟ design language which reflects an Indian essence imbued with modernity. Innovation as a value is embraced and cherished by the brand and lies at the heart of every W creation. W innovates and leads the evolving fashion needs of the contemporary Indian woman by offering her a wardrobe solution for her different moods. Since inception W has stayed true to its promise of providing “fashion with functionality”

ORGANISATION STRUCTURE AT TCNS LIMITED Managing Director Mr. A.S. Pasricha GM (Manufacturing) Merchandising Acc. Purchase Design GM (Marketing/Merchandising) Finance HR IT Admin. Cutting IE Planning Finishing Quality

Sewing Maintenance GM (Finance & Acc.) GM ( HR / Admin) Production Manager PreProduction Fabric Store Lab. Purchase ( Chem. / Spares) Accessories Store Store Manager 6. WORKFLOW IN DEPARTMENTS The business is headed by Business Head (Vice President); he has four functional heads supporting him namely, GM (Head Manufacturing), GM (Marketing/Merchandising), GM (HR/Admin) and GM (Finance) The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the Pre-Production, Accessories Stores, Cutting Department, Planning, Industrial Engineering, Sewing Department, Quality, Finishing, Maintenance department. The head of departments has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Marketing/Merchandising Department. The Marketing/ Merchandising Department have a major role to play and are involved in every stage of the product development. GM (Marketing/Merchandising) heads the all the activities in the three departments namely Marketing/Merchandising, purchase department and fabric department. Head Finance has mainly two functional areas, the financial activities and the EXIM or the documentation activities. The GM (HR/Admin) heads the activities of the HR department, Admin department and the IT department.

The Department heads reports to the respective GMs for the various activities and major decision making in the departments.

The work flow of TCNS Ltd is a planned and coordinated effort from all the departments. Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are performed at every stage of Manufacture right from pre-production to post-production. There are 14 different departments in TCNS Limited. They are:

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MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

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PURCHASE DEPARTMENT

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PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT

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PLANNING DEPARTMENT

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STORE DEPARTMENT •

FABRIC DEPARTMENT

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TRIMS AND ACCESSORY DEPARTMENT

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INITIAL TESTING LAB.

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CUTTING DEPARTMENT

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SEWING DEPARTMENT

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FINISHING DEPARTMENT

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QUALITY ASSURANCE

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INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

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MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

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ACCOUNTS AND FINANCE DEPARTMENT

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HUMAN RESOURCE & ADMINISTRATION DEPARTMENT

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INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY DEPARTMENT

All these departments are directly or indirectly related to the process of production. The following flowchart will explain the working of departments, which are directly involved for the process of production right from receipt and conformation of order to purchase than production to final finishing processes.

Flowchart Explaining Workflow in Departments •

6.1. MARKETING / MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

Organisation Structure

The GM Merchandising heads the department. There are two senior mangers reporting to him, one of the managers is responsible for the sourcing and the other manager is responsible for designing and marketing. The managers are supported by the merchandisers and an assistant for the marketing and merchandising activities. The functions of the department are: •

Generation of orders depending on production capacity

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Sample approvals

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Purchase co-ordination

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Generation of BOM

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Delivery of shipment

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Time & Action calendar

The process flow of the department is as follows

Flowchart to explain the working of merchandising department

Yes 6.2. STORE DEPARTMENT •

•

• •

6.2.1. FABRIC DEPARTMENT

This department is headed by the Manager ( Sourcing/Merchandising) . There is a head of department who takes care of the proceedings of the department. The main functions of the department are: •

Receive the fabric as per BOM

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Inspect the fabric

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Conduct shrinkage and colourfastness tests

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Issue to spreading dept as per plan

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Receive the end bits

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Type of fabrics stored in the department is: • Shell • Lining • Pocketing • Felt • Fusing • Canvas • Facing

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Fabric Issue for: • Production • Sample Pieces

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Fabric Issue to: • Cutting Department

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Production Department

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Sampling Department

The detailed working of the department is as follows:

The fabrics received are checked by 4-point system: 4-POINT SYSTEM The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance of the defect. Points are assigned according to the following criteria:

KNITS FABRIC

43055 X 1.09 X 0.914 X WEIGHT OF FABRIC ROLL YARD

-----------------------------------------------------------------------OPEN FABRIC WIDTH X GSM

TOTAL POINTS X 100 POINTS/ 100 YARDS --------------------------------------------------------------------YARD

FABRIC AUDIT PROCEDURE •

Select 10% of the fabric received randomly

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Cut the fabric to check within lot continuity

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Perform GSM cutting

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Cut the fabric for the selvedge testing

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Perform shrinkage test

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. Perform wash fastness test at 40 C / 45 min cycle

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Match the between lots continuity

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Check the fabric for the torquing ( skewing)

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Perform fabric Audit at 4 Points system as explained below

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Check each roll separately for the defects SIZE OF DEFECTS

POINTS

3 INCHES OR LESS

1 PT

OVER 3 INCHES , BUT LESS THAN 6 INCHES

2 PTS

OVER 6 INCHES , BUT LESS THAN 9 INCHES

3 PTS

OVER 9 INCHES

4 PTS

* IN CASE OF HOLES (ANY SIZE) 4 PENALTY PTS. ARE GIVEN * MAXIMUM 4 PENALTY PTS. ARE TO BE CHARGED IN 1M LONG FABRIC •

Allocate points to the defects as per the table below.

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Convert the defects points to the corresponding 100 mtr length

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E.g. if 15 defect points are there in 50 mtr fabric received then the defects per 100 mtr would be 15x100/50 = 30

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Pass the roll if it is within 40points per 100mtr else reject •

10% random inspection for local buyer or lining or net fabric.

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100% inspection for main fabric.

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The fabrics are checked for: •

Width

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Shade (centre to selvedge)

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Weaving defects

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Shrinkage (steam & fusing)

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There are two machines for the purpose.

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Relaxation is done for preventing fabric shrinkage.

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All the rolls of fabric are properly coded before loading onto racks(woven) and pallets(knits) .

• 6.2.2 TRIMS AND ACCESSORY DEPARTMENT

The organization structure of the department is same as the Fabric department.

Objective: •

To receive Incoming material

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To check material for attribute & variables

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To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks

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To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement

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To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material

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To do audit to check physical inventory.

The working of the Trims department is shown as below: Material segregation:

The material is segregated according to the order type ( DD/DO/KO ) and then further segregated according to the departments of its use: •

Sewing Department Trims: • Sewing thread •

Ban Roll: Waist Band, loop

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Fusing

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Button

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•

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Zipper & slider

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Hook & Bar

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Label: •

Size

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Wash care

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Brand

Finishing Department Trims: •

Poly Bag

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Carton Box

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Hanger

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Clips

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Staple Pin

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Tag

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Size

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Brand

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Wash care

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Additional

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Carton Box Cello Tape

Other Material: •

Spare Part

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Stationary Material

6.2.3. INITIAL TESTING LAB. Multifibre Adjacent Fabric To check Staining on other fibre types multifibre adjacent fabric is being used. It is made of yarns of various generic kinds of fibres, each of which forms a strip of specified width providing even thickness of the fabric.

Test Procedure • Multifibre adjacent fabric is stitched to sample. Multifibre consists of six different fibre strips so that staining can be assessed on different fibre types.

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Test is performed in Launderometer m/c where different parameters like temperature during wash, time of wash is being controlled.

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Detergent solution is prepared and it is added to jars of launderometer.

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Stainless steel balls are added to give agitation to simulate action of hand or machine wash.

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Sample to be tested is put in the jar and jars are mounted on rotating shaft of machine.

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Once the machine is run for defined time sample is being taken out and rinsed in water. Then sample is dried.

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Condition the sample & grade using grey scales.

Light Machine – Conditions Of Viewing • The source under which the comparison is made can be•

D65 - daylight The specimen should be placed on a flat, uniform surface having no distortions. The surrounding field shall be uniform grey.

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The specimen plane is at 45° angle to horizontal. The light is incident upon the surfaces at an angle of approximately 45°, and the direction of viewing is approximately along the perpendicular to the plane of the surfaces.

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For assessment, a piece of the original and the tested specimen, or the undyed and stained adjacent fabrics, are arranged side by side in the same plane and oriented in the same direction.

Interpretation of the grades • The end result of any colorfastness test is a grade given to the tested sample. •

Grade 5 - NO CHANGE

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Grade 4 - SLIGHT CHANGE

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Grade 3 - NOTICEABLE CHANGE

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Grade 2 - CONSIDERABLE CHANGE

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Grade 1 - SEVERE CHANGE

Colour fastness to Rubbing The reason is transfer of colourant from the surface of a coloured yarn or fabric to another surface or adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing. Evaluates the degree of colour transfer from the textile surface to other surface. Test Method: • AATCC 8 ,116, 165 •

ISO 105 X12 , ISO 105 X16

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Apparatus - Crock meter

Crock Cloth

Test Procedure •

Specimen to be tested is clamped on base plate.

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Crocksquare (Standard cotton fabric) is mounted on rubbing finger.

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Rubbing finger is moved against the fabric surface for defined number of cycles.

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Crocksquare is removed from rubbing finger. It is conditioned and then evaluated for staining using grey scales.

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In case of wet rubbing, the crocksquare is wetted with water and rubbed against the specimen in the same way as mentioned above.

Dimensional Changes after washing This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes in woven & knit fabrics / garments, when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures commonly used at home. The dimensional changes of textile specimen subjected to washing are measured using pair of bench marks applied to the fabric before washing. Machine and Material AATCC • M/c: Top loading washing m/c • Ballast: 920 mm x 920 mm hemmed pieces of bleached cotton or 50/50 polyester/cotton plain weave. • Total load in washing: Preferably specimen + ballast should weigh 1.8 0.1 kg. • Detergent: 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent in amount 66 1 g for m/c wash. • All type of testing is done at medium water level I.e. 18 1 gal.

ISO • •

• • •

m/c: preferably front loading m/c. Ballast: 100% knitted polyester texturized filament fabric having a mass per unit area of 31020 g/m2. Four pieces of size 20 x 20 cm, overlocked together on all four sides. OR 50/50 polyester/cotton plain woven fabric of mass per unit area 155 5 g/m2 and of size 92 x 92 cm. Total load in washing: specimen + ballast should weigh 2 0.1 kg. Detergent: ECE or IEC ref detergent + Sodium perborate tetrahydrate in 4:1 ratio. Add sufficient detergent to provide suds having a height not more than 3 0.5 cm at the end of washing cycle.

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Front Loading Washing Machine (For rest of countries)

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Top Loading Washing Machine (For United States of America only)

Drying Methods •

Line dry - Specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric length in vertical direction.

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Drip dry - Dripping wet specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric length in vertical direction.

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Flat dry - Specimen is dried by spreading on a horizontal screen or perforated surface removing wrinkles without stretching and distorting it.

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Tumble dry - ISO dryer: Auto reversing action - AATCC dryer: Unidirectional movement

Sample Preparation ISO • Place the specimen on the measuring table and make at least three, 350 mm pairs of marks on it on both length and width directions. • No mark should be less than 50 mm from the edges of the specimen and the measuring points should be regularly spaced. • Condition the specimen for at least 4 h in the conditioned atmosphere. • After conditioning lay the specimen flat, remove wrinkles without stretching. Now record the distance between the pair of marks by measuring it with rule or tape.

AATCC • Prior to marking condition the test specimen for at least 4h in conditioned atmosphere. • After conditioning, lay the sample on a flat surface. Mark three, 250 mm pairs (option 1) OR 500 mm pairs (option 2)of benchmarks parallel to test specimen length and width. • Each pair of benchmark must be at least 50 mm from test specimen edges. • Record benchmark distance. To improve accuracy the distance between each pair of benchmark should be measured with tape or rule and this should be used in calculation

Sample Marking ISO

AATCC

Sample Marking – Garments • In case of AATCC condition the sample prior to marking and in case of ISO condition the sample after marking. •

Mark between the specific points. Selection depends on the type and style of garment.

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Place the garment on flat surface and measure with rule , the distance between each pair of marked positions without tensioning the garment.

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Record these measurements.

Spirality/Skewness Measurement after washing AATCC 179 This test method determines change in SKEWNESS in woven & knitted fabrics or twist in garments when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures commonly used in home. The specimen is conditioned in the specified standard atmosphere and measured before subjection to the appropriate washing and drying procedure. After drying and conditioning, remeasurement is done and spirality is being calculated Test Procedure • Prior to marking condition the test specimen. •

Mark the sample as per the method described.

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Wash the sample sample as per the procedure explained earlier.

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After washing and drying, condition the test specimen at least for 4h.

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After conditioning lay each test specimen on a flat, smooth and horizontal surface.

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Calculate the spirality as per the various options described in next slides.

Square Marking

Inverted T-

Marking •

Fabrics or garments that are distorted in their unlaundered state may give deceptive results when laundered. In such cases, it is recommended that specimen not be used, or if used, the results be considered as indicative of these specimens only.

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Three specimen of each sample to be tested.

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It is better to take specimen from different area like left side, centre and right side covering different lengthwise and widthwise yarn.

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Reference line should be drawn parallel to bottom edge or hem. If bottom edge or hem is not straight then reference line should be drawn perpendicular to the vertical axis of symmetry of specimen.

Tear Strength - Elmendorf This test method determines the tear force required to propagate a single-rip tear of defined length from a cut in the fabric when a sudden force is applied. This method applies to fabrics which do not tend to tear in a direction crosswise to the direction of force applied. Hence it is mainly applicable for woven fabrics. In general the test is not applicable to knitted fabrics and woven elastic fabrics. It is not suitable for highly anisotropic fabrics or loose fabrics where tear transfer from one machine direction to another direction of the fabric during tear is likely to occur. Test Methods: • ISO 13937-1 •

ASTM D 1424

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Principle

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The force required to continue a slit previously cut in a fabric is determined by measuring the work done in tearing the fabric through a fixed distance. The apparatus consists of a pendulum carrying a clamp which is in alignment with a fixed clamp when the pendulum is in raised, starting position with potential maximum energy.

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The specimen is fastened in the clamps and the tear is started by cutting a slit in the specimen between the clamps. The pendulum is the released and the specimen is torn completely as the moving jaw moves away from the fixed one.The tear force is computed from scale reading and pendulum capacity.

Apparatus Sample Preparation • Tear force is reported as ―across warp‖ or ―across weft‖ according whether the tear is made across the warp (warp threads are torn) or weft (weft threads are torn) respectively. •

Each test specimen shall be cut with its short side parallel to the warp or weft of the fabric. Where the short side is parallel to warp, the direction of tear is qualified ―across weft‖ or vice versa.

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5 specimens in warp direction and 5 in weft direction shall be cut.

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No two test specimen shall contain the same warp and weft threads, and no specimen shall be cut within 150 mm of the edge of the fabric.

Test Procedure • Condition the specimen till equilibrium is reached. •

Select the capacity of machine according to the fabric under test.

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Level the apparatus with levelling screws and check the equilibrium position of pendulum sector and zero calibration.

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Position the pendulum to the starting position and the force recording mechanism to its zero position.

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Place the long sides of the specimen centrally in the clamp with the bottom edge carefully set against the stop and the upper edge parallel to the top of the clamps.

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Using built-in knife blade cut a 20 mm slit in the specimen extending from bottom edge.

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Depress the pendulum stop downward so that pendulum is released and hold it till tearing is completed.

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Catch the pendulum sector by hand on return swing.

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Record the scale reading at pointer position and capacity used.

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Take 5 reading warpwise and 5 weftwise.

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If scale reads the % then calculate tear force as Scale reading x full scale capacity (in g or lb) 100

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In other case directly record Tear force.

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Take average of five readings and report in unit mentioned in the standard

Note – • Mass of the pendulum should be so selected that the measurements taken from the test specimen give results between 15 % and 85 % (For ISO) OR 20 % and 80 % (For ASTM) of the full scale range of the corresponding measuring scale. •

Any unusual tear behavior like crosswise tear, slippage of threads at jaws, slippage of threads out of fabric should be reported.

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In case of patch work fabrics, all fabric types should be tested separately.

Calibration Checks• With the pendulum in raised position, check the alignment of clamps. The knife should be centered between the clamps. •

Tear length in fabric specimen should be 43 0.5 mm. It should be checked using specimen prepared with paper.

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The levelness of instrument should be checked using spirit level.

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Check the zero pointer stop and zero reading display by operating the m/c without test specimen.

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Calibrate the m/c once in 6 month for load calibration using operator‘s manual.

Pilling Pilling is a process of formation of pill because of entanglement of surface fibres during wear. Pills are those tenacious little fuzz balls that sometimes appear on our garments. The propensity of pilling is determined by the rates of following parallel processes. - fibre entanglement leading to pill formation; - development of more surface fibre; - fibre and pill wear off.

Pilling Box Method Principle Specimen are mounted on polyurethane tubes and tumbled randomly in a cork-lined box at a constant rotational speed. Fuzzing and pilling is assessed visually after a defined period of tumbling.

Any special treatment of the test specimen i.e. washing, drycleaning, has to be agreed upon and shall be stated in the test report. Procedure • Unless otherwise agreed, launder or dry clean the sample using the method agreed. •

Cut four test specimens, each 125 mm x 125 mm. Mark the back of fabric and length direction.

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Take two specimen and fold with its face inward and with length direction running in the direction of fold and for other two fold same way with width direction running in the direction of fold.

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Sew 12 mm from cut edges to form a tube.

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Turn each specimen inside out and cut 6 mm off each end of the fabric tube to remove any sewing distortion.

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Mount prepared specimen on specimen tube with the help of mounting jig.

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Apply PVC tape around each of the cut ends of each specimen, so that tape fixes the specimen on to the tube and leaves 6 mm of the tube exposed.

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Condition the specimens in the atmosphere for at least 16 h.

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Clean the inside of the pill testing box, it should be free from lint.

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Place the four mounted specimen in the same pill testing box.

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Close the lid.

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Run the machine for agreed number of revolutions.

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Remove the specimens from the box and remove the stitching from the seam.

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Assess the specimen in reference to original specimen in the standard viewing cabinet, illuminated by white fluorescent tube which is positioned at an angle 5° and 15° to the plane of the specimen.

Assessment • Place the tested specimen and a piece of original sample along side each other in the viewing cabinet with the length direction vertical. •

More than one observer should assess the specimen.

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Grade each specimen as per the guideline mentioned.

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The test result of each observer is the average of four specimen grades.

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Photographic assessment may be used to support the primary descriptive method of assessment, as agreed between the parties.

Pilling - Visual assessment 5 - No Visual Change 4 - Slight surface fuzzing and/ or partially formed pills. 3 - Moderate surface fuzzing/or moderate pilling. • Pills of varying size and density partially covering the specimen 2 - Distinct surface fuzzing and/ or distinct pilling. • Pills of varying size and density covering a large proportion of specimen. 1 - Dense surface fuzzing and / or severe pilling. • Pills of varying size and density covering the whole of the specimen

6.3. PRE- PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

Organization Structure

The main objective of the department is to make samples and to calculate the cost of production. The major functions of the department can be listed as: •

Initial Pattern making/Marker making

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Sampling

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Final Costing

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Determination of consumption of fabric, trims & accessories

• Process Flow The process flow of the department is as follows:

The pre-production dept is in constant touch with the marketing department, which generates the order. The buyer supplies the specification sheet depending on which the patterns are developed. • Sampling Once the buyer approves the patterns sampling is done in jumping sizes and sent to the buyer for approval. There are a variety of samples generated at various stages. Once the pre-production sample is approved mass production starts. Sampling Is Done For•

Procurement of orders

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Order confirmation

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Final look of the garment

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For knowing the critical areas

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For knowing cost of production

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Operation required

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Numbers of workers required

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Accessories required etc.

The various stages of sampling are:

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Lead time taken by Buyer for 1week – 1 month

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Requiration Slip : Creation of Development No. for CRC – C (code) and Merchandiser – N(code)

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Proto : 3pcs [ Buyer, factory and Buying House]

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Black Seal :

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sample need not be in actual colour but the fabric should be same as it would be used in production.

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It is same as size set sample

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3-4 sizes created with the colour asked in the order

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Pilot Run: Initial 10pcs per size

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Sent production dept. : 2 weeks to 1 month before ex-shipment

Costing is a very important function of the department. The buyer is presented with an estimated cost of production that is negotiated upon with the buyer for arriving at the final price. The various considerations while calculating the cost are: •

SAM

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Order Quantity

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Efficiency

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Machine Hour Rate (MHR)

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Fabric & trims consumption

Pre-production also contributes to the quality of product by way of good patterns and sizing.

6.4. PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT

Organisation Structure The department is headed by the GM manufacturing. There is a plant manager reporting to him and the planning manager reports to the plant manager and he has the merchandiser assisting him with the planning.

This department does all the planning related to the production and the delivery. They do of loading plans for the lines, fabric details plans and the shipment plans. The department plans the entire production process from the receipt of the fabric, the cutting plan, the quantity time of loading, type of fabric to be loaded etc The main objectives of the planning department are to ensure:

Effective utilisation of production capacity •

Minimum start up losses

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To plan the entire department works and timing those in such a way that the goal that is shipments at right time should be carried out.

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To make cutting plan

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To decide the capacity of different lines and load accordingly

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To rework the plan if previous plans fail to meet

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Alarm the corresponding section when they start failing to meet the plan

The PPC does planning for all the Jacket and Trouser lines. Few things that have to be considered for effective planning are: •

Fabric & Trims available in-house or to be sourced

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Sewing capacity

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Which style to be loaded on a particular line

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Maintaining input and output on daily basis in each and every line.

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Machine availability

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Shipment date

The BOM generated by the marketing department is issued to the stores and other department by PPC. The PPC is also responsible for issuing cut tickets.

Once the buyer approves the pre-production sample, bulk production has to start. The CAD department considering the following points generates the marker: •

Fabric width

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Length of the lay

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Size ratio

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Order quantity

A mini marker along with details for cutting is generated. The purchase department generates the BOM. Depending on this the store department issues fabric and trims. Based on the spreading plan the spreading department spreads the lay and the lay is shifted to cutting table. •

The cutting department cuts the lay on the basis of mini marker.

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The marker plan is fed into the computer and the auto cutter cuts the patterns accordingly.

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The cut pieces are then fused and bundled.

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The bundles are then coded and bundle tickets are applied on them.

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The bundles are then issued to the sewing section according to the sewing plan.

Cad Processes •

• • • • • • •

• •

6.5. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Spreading Process: •

fabric roll is placed on a stand

• • Pull the fabric of length of the lay on table •

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Cut the end

They continue the same process for the no. of lays req.

After completion of laying

Cutting by Straight Knife

Spreading: Fabric to be received from fabric store department along with following details: •

Usable fabric width

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Colour /shade code

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Length of rolls

Spreading operator is to receive lay report consisting of following details: •

Purchase Order

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Style Number

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Lay Number

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Lay method –Face up / Face to face

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Fabric type –Shell/ Lining /Interlining / Fusing

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Colour / Shade

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Lot quantity

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Marker name

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Marker length

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Lay length

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Usable fabric width

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Deficiency

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No of plies to be spread

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Consumption

The cutting department is responsible for cutting the lay as per the cutting plan (marker) generated by the ―Planning Dept‖ after cutting the panels are fused according to the requirement.

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Process Flowchart •

Fabric Store Department

• • •

Fabric Receipt

• • •

Manual laying:

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Spreading or Pinning

(Lay report, Minimarker, Cut summary sheet)

Manual Cutting

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Numbering

• •

Panel Inspection: Fabric Defect, Size, Shape & Notch

• •

Fusing

• • •

Bundling & Ticketing

Issue to Sewing Department

Capacity Fabric Type Avg. Solid Printed Checked

Pcs / shift 6000 15000 10000 3500

Machine M/c Type Straight knife Band knife fusing Block cutting

Available 10 1 2 1

Avg. Spreading time: 50 ply / hr Avg. Cutting time : Bottoms – 1hr Shirts – 2.5 hrs Tops – 1 hr Skirts – 1.5 hrs Lay height: Knits – 100 ply Woven – 150 ply

6.6. SEWING DEPARTMENT

Sewing department‘s function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This department makes the plans, pattern and material in to a garment; this is the place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is passed on to the sewing department for the sewing. The various parts are stitched together to form the garments. • The Department structure The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. Plant Manager assists the GM in all the manufacturing activities. All the section heads reports to the Plant manager. All the three lines jacket section has one Production Manager and Production Engineer each. There are a section in charge and a feeding helper assisting the Production Manager and Production Engineer. There are nine supervisors and Two hundred fifty operators reporting to the Production Manager and Production Engineer. Flowchart showing the structure of Sewing Department

The process of the sewing floors: •

Line Setting •

Line setting is the process of setting a batch for a style‘s production. This is done before the bulk production of the style starts.

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The quality specification chart contains the details: M/c, pressure foot, needle no, thread(bobbin, needle, looper), SPI, Style, buyer, Operator, Operation, signed by all the heads.

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In this process each operator is given the demonstration of the operation and is asked to perform the operation under the guidance of all the heads.

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The Line is set in the presence of: •

Technical head •

He tries to make the process very easy and makes the operator understand the operation well.

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The technical head decided which the critical operations are and which working aids can be used in order to make the operation easier.

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Machine Maintenance In-Charge •

He provides the machine for the particular operation and sets the machine for the required SPI, Feed-dog height, pressure foot lift and other settings

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The maintenance head assures that the machine functions properly without any machine breakdown

Supervisor •

Main function of the floor in-charge is the man power handling, he keeps an account of the operator‘s skill and decides upon the operator for the operation

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He deals with the absenteeism problem of the company, and decided upon the substitutes for the operation in case of absenteeism

I.E. Head •

IE head is responsible for line balancing

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This dept assures that the optimum WIP is achieved in order to keep the production in a smooth run

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This dept also provides the various folders and guides for the operation

Quality In-charge •

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He is responsible for checking that the quality produced by the operator is as per the requirements.

Issuing by cutting dept. •

The process of sewing starts with the issuing of cut pieces to each of the batches. The Progressive Bundle System is being used here.

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The cut parts are issued in the form of bundles .

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First of all the material requisition slip is sent to the cutting room. A helper is sent to the cutting room, which brings the pieces cut as per the quantity in the slip.

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Along with the cut pieces a slip is there which contains the details of the pieces brought up. Details: Cut no, size, serial no, bundle no, qty.

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These above mentioned details are filled size wise into the loading book which is maintained at the issuing area by the feeding helper. Details: Date, cut no, size, serial no, bundle no, qty, total.

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These pieces are brought in the form of a tied up bundles that are stored in racks near the issuing area.

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The pieces are then issued from the racks as per the issuing details, these details are provided by the production manager, and this is given for each batch.

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In case of any defects in the cut pieces, the pc is replaced here itself, a letter is written out in an internal memo and sent to the fabric store, requesting for the required amount of fabric.

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The fabric is then recorded along with the delivery challan, and then the piece is cut here at the issuing area and given back to the Line.

Sewing Process •

After the bundles have been issued to the starting m/c s, the sewing operations on them start.

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The flow of the bundles is in a zig-zag way in the sewing lines.

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First the parts required for the line are prepared.

Quality inspection •

Quality inspection is an important process carried out on the sewing floor. This process is carried out to ensure that the quality in the pieces is being maintained by the operators as required.

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For this quality to be achieved, a quality specification chart is hung on the machine. Along with this, a sample is first made by the quality checker (generally by anyone otherwise) and hung on the machine as a mock.

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The operators are to look at the mock and produce the pieces as per the mock and the quality in it.

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Inspections are carried out at 2 various stages in the lines : •

In-line inspection

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In each batch or line there are 2-3 in-line checkers who check all the defects in accordance with the operations carried out on the piece before coming to checking.

End-line inspection •

At the end of each line the garment is inspected totally for all the defects in accordance with all the operations performed on it.

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There is one quality internal record chart made by supervisor and quality controller for each line.

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The report contains the details : date, batch, supervisor name, line QC name. The other defects‘ details : order #, time, type of defects, its occurrence in the bundle and the corrective action taken on it.

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The supervisor, QC and the QA sign in for each of the defect checking whether the corrective action has been taken and it is acceptable.

6.7. FINISHING DEPARTMENT A customer‘s interest in a garment is evoked by the final presentation of it in any store. The finishing department does just that, in the sense that it ships neatly packed goods. The objectives of finishing are: •

Improve the appearance of the garments

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Improve the drape by pressing

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Improve the durability of the garments

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Packing for dispatch

The process flow of the department is as follows:

The defective pieces are sent back for alteration and the approved pieces are sent to the warehouse. The finishing involves the following steps:

6.8. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stages of the production. The Quality Assurance Department‘s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and trims reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues throughout cutting process and sewing. After each operation the quality checks are done and in the finishing department a detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any defects, finally approve the trousers and jackets for packing. •

Organisation Structure

The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. Plant Manager assists the GM in all the manufacturing activities. The Quality Assurance Manager reports to the Plant Manager. The shift in charge supports the Quality Assurance managers in the quality checking operations. There are seven quality controller and forty-nine quality checkers reporting to the Quality Assurance managers.

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Objectives of Quality Department •

The objective of quality department is impart quality in the product

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To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.

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To restrict the defects entering into the final product

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6.9. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Industrial engineering department is the brain of any industry and garment industry is no other exception. The industrial engineering department is responsible for all the factory operations. The operation of this department starts from the receipt of the order from the buyer. Once the customers place the order the merchandise department forwards the order to the industrial engineering department for the processing. They then prepare the CM cost (cut make cost). This includes •

Operational run

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SAM (standard allocated minute) for each individual operation

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Cost per machine hour is calculated

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Standard achievable efficiency, etc are calculated and forwarded back to the merchandise department

The operation continues once the order is confirmed. The APS or the Approved Production Sample is given to the department, here the sequence of the process is studied, and the necessary suggestions for changes are made if required. And also in the receipt of the confirmed order the complete operation bulletin is prepared, along with all the attachments, guidelines and files the documents are forwarded to the production department with all other accessories. They also have certain functions like going to the line while the batch is set, during menu style loading and so on. They ensure the process is running smoothly the go for continues checking till the first product comes out. After that they will have a periodic check for line balancing exercise for productivity improvement. They also monitor the manpower allotment. The finally the reports generate and the performance is evaluated as per the actual target and the achievement and the same report is sent to the management. The industrial engineering department also under takes projects, setting up lines maintenance &utility, R&D activities etc.

Head manufacturing (GM) heads the industrial engineering department. There are three industrial engineers reporting to the GM. Industrial engineers takes care of R&D, pre production and production basement. •

Flowchart showing the working of the IE department

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6.10. MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines. Organisation Structure The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. The Manager Maintenance reports to the Head Manufacturing (GM) regarding the activities in the Maintenance Department. The Asst Manager Maintenance supports the manager and has five senior executive and twenty junior executives reporting to him.

Organizational Chart

Maintenance department maintains all the electronic components. In maintenance department there are 3 helpers and 2 electricians. Work done by maintenance department: •

Servicing of machine.

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Checking of Boilers for steam.

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Electricity supply—if power is gone then starting of generator.

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Building maintenance.

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Oil change.

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Replacement of defective parts

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Servicing of Motor.

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Checking of Motor.

6.11. PURCHASE DEPARTMENT Purchase department deals with all the purchases in the organization. The department receives the order from the merchandising and the order is processed and is placed for the purchase. And the follow up of the order, the goods, the payment and all related activities are taken care by the Purchase department. Till the materials are in house the purchase department is responsible for all the activities. Flowchart showing the process flow:

6.12. ACCOUNTS AND FINANCE DEPARTMENT •

Finance Department

The finance department mainly has two operations. They are •

Accounts

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Finance

• Accounts Department Accounting operations handles the activities like the •

Purchase booking, that is, the bill booking etc

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Sales booking

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Expense booking

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Payments booking, that is, payments of bills as per the GRN or the goods received note of the sores department.

Finance Department Finance operation mainly takes care of all the finance operation. They are •

Collection, that is, collection of payments from the customers

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LC or letter of credit, the finance operation will take care of these operation

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BG or bank guarantee is also taken care by this department.

6.13. HR / ADMIN DEPARTMENT

HR Department can be termed as the mother of any organization. It takes care of all the employee related activities, that is the recruitment, selection, induction, training, remunerations, provident fund, gratuity, ESI and so on the administration department takes care of the transportation, guest accommodation and other industrial relation activities like dealing with the labour department, pollution control board etc. Recruitment is done by aptitude tests. It is used to be in the local language. While the employees are recruited in they are to produce the documents regarding the age proof, PF nomination, gratuity nomination, ESI nomination and employable certificate. The induction and the training are given to every recruited employee on the tailoring machines. They‘re also certain task force training also given for the members of the task force.

Objectives: •

To maintain the personnel documents.

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To ensure employees benefits timely

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To recruit new staff, employees etc.

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To receive and solve employees grievances

The Organisation Structure is as follows:

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6.14. IT DEPARTMENT

The company has a fully functional IT department which takes care of the MIS and the ERP of the company. The IT department is responsible for documenting all the transactions taking place in the company.

Management Information System (MIS) in TCNS The MIS software suite used in TCNS. Ltd. is TRPS (TCNS Resource Planning Software), which has been developed by its own Information Technology Department.TRPS has been developed in Oracle backed up with SQL database. TRPS is a total integrated apparel management system and has a multi-user facility. TRPS has extensive MIS reporting feature, which helps the organization in process/production planning and thereby enables them to increase their productivity and hence its profitability. One can keep track of all manufacturing processes beginning from order entry to shipment. TRPS significantly improves the way core activities across the entire business are planned, managed and tracked, including: •

Customer File Management

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Style Cost Sheets

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Order Processing

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Bill Of Materials

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Raw Material Status

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First-Cut Information

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Final-Cut Information

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Order Reconciliation Process

TRPS provides reports with fixed and standard formats, hard-copy and soft-copy reports and uses internal data stored in the computer system.

Various menus within which all the options are available in TRPS: •

Master - like Name Masters, Jobwork Master, Currency Master, Exchange Rate Master, Inventory, TNA Master, Inspection Certificate etc.

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Style – Style Masters, Style Entry, Delivery, Approval, Sizes, Costing, TNA, Reports, Challan, Audit Reports etc.

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Fabric–Fabric Master, Fabric Entry, Fabric Order, Fabric Sampling Order, Garment Purchase Order, Fabric Status etc.

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Trims

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Shipping – Master, Shipping Entry, Packing Entry, Shipping Status, Dispatch Plan, Invoice etc.

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Tools – Common tools like undo, cut, copy, paste; Exchange Rate, Forward Booking etc.

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MIS – Buyer Wise Order Booking Status, Order Follow Up Report, Delivery Shipping Analysis

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Development – Enquiry Master, Style Master, Development Status, Reports like Fabric Requirement, Trim Requirement etc.

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WIP – Jobwork Order, Process Flow, Department Wise WIP Reports, Style Wise Production Entry etc.

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Help – Merchant, PO Info, Development Info

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―W Menu‖ – Forms, Reports etc.

The main functions of IT dept are: •

Dealing with MIS

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Maintenance of all hardware like computers, scanners, printers, Xerox machine, fax machines etc…

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Dealing with ERP

Organisation Structure