Apparel internship at Alok Report

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Internship at Alok  Industries Ltd Garments Division, Saily, 2010

Submitted and compiled By Ashish Kumar Annepu, Lalit Kishore Singh

B.F.Technology (Apparel Production) Semester -7(Batch 2007 - 2011) 1

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We, Ashish Kumar Annepu and Lalit Lalit Kishore Singh of NIFT Hyderabad Hyderabad express our in depth gratitude to Mr. SANDEEP MAHAJAN (VP garments) and Mr. SAMUEL MUPPAVARAPU (IE HOD) of Saily plant for guiding us along with road map before and throughout the training. We are heartily thanking to below member of Alok Vapi HR Team for extending their  courtesy & guideline during our stay with Alok industries Vapi. •

Mr. Suresh Bhardwaj

•

Mr. Dinesh Salaskar 

•

Mr. Suresh Soni

Further we are thankful to following of Alok Garments Production team for giving us technical and functional knowhow and support during d uring our entire training duration. Mr. Samuel Muppavarapu (Training Mentor).

Mr. Pratap Rout -

Fabric store

Mr. Bharat Upadhayay-

Accessory store

Mr. Rahesh D Choudhary-

Thread store

Ms. Roshni Bamani-

Sampling (Woven)

Mr. Yogesh Srivastava-

Sampling (Knits)

Mr. Rakesh Datta-

CAD department

Mr. Rajendra D Patidar-

Spreading and Cutting

Mr. Harendra Rana-

Sewing /Production (knits)

Mr. Pravin Khavade

Sewing/Production (woven)

Mr. Subhash Bhandaari-

Quality

Mr. Shiva Gateyar-

Finishing/Packaging

Mr. Hetal Kamkhaliya-

Maintenance

Mr. Samuel Muppavarapu-

Industrial engineering

Mr. Moinuddin Sheikh-

Production Merchandising Merchandising

Mr. Pradeep GodhaniyaGodhaniya-

Production planning and control

Mr. Arvind Ranmale-

Embroidery

Mr.Anandan Naidu-

Printing

Mr. Amit Pareikh-

IT 2

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

We would also like to thank our Honourable Director  Mr K.S .Pratap and Respected Registrar  Mr D. Rajesham and the following faculties for guiding us through from the beginning and successful completion of our internship Ms. Sharmila Sure (Course Coordinator-DFT dept ,Internship mentor)

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

PART 1

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

INTRODUCTION B F Tech at NIFT is a very practical oriented course that equips students with all the necessary skill sets that the industry expects. As a part of the course a two month internship at a garmennt firm is mandated, mandated,

which aims aims at imparting imparting a practical

understanding understanding of 

various processes related aspects of the sector. Internship enables students to get a better  understanding understanding of a company, correlate theory with practice, provides an opportunity to study and organsiation and its products and processes and also gaining knowledge knowledge on o n its functioning. We chose to pursue the internship at M/S Alok Industries Garments division at Saily, Silvassa. This company is India’s largest vertically integrated mill with an envious export record accompanied by a dominant position in the domestic market. In compilation of this Internship report, all out efforts have been made to present a comprehensive picture of the activities undertaken at Alok Industries in the garment unit

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1. Company profile 1.1 Introduction Alok industries Ltd is one of India’s largest Vertically Integrated Company. It is head quartered in Mumbai with its manufacturing units in Vapi, Silvassa & Navi Mumbai. The company is an end to end provider of integrated textile solutions with five core divisions: - Cotton yarn, Apparel fabrics, Home textiles, and Garment and Polyester  yarns.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.2 History & evolution

Alok industries were established in 1986 as a private limited company, with its first polyester text rising plant being set up in 1989. It became a public limited company in 1993. Over the years, it has expanded into weaving, knitting, processing, home textiles and garments and to ensure quality and cost efficiencies they have integrated backward into cotton spinning and manufacturing partially oriented yarn through the continuous polymerization route. It also provides embroidered products through Grabal Alok Impex Ltd., their associate company which is the main reason for their evolution into a diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles, garments, apparel fabrics and polyester yarns, selling directly to manufacturers, exporters, importers, retailers and to some of the world’s top brands. Alok has recently entered the domestic retail segment through a wholly owned subsidiary, Alok Retail India Limited, with a chain of  stores named ‘H&A’ that offer garments and home textiles at attractive price points.

1.3 Vision of the organization “To be the world's best- integrated textile solutions enterprise with leadership position across products and markets, exceeding customer & stakeholder expectation”. expectation”.

1.4 Mission of the organization The company aims at achieving the following objectives: obje ctives: •

Offer innovative, customized and value added services ser vices to customers.

•

Actively explore potential markets & products.

•

Optimize use of all resources

•

Maximize people development initiatives

•

Become a process driven organization

•

Be a knowledge leader and an innovator in the businesses

•

Exceed compliances and global quality standards

•

Be an ethical, transparent and responsible global organization 7

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2. ORGANISATION CHART/HIERARCHY

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

3. PROCESS FLOW AT GARMENTS DIVISION

OCM

TNA

CAD

SAMPLING

R&D

OB

As per TNA material procurement

Pattern and marker 

Fit sample

Tech-Pack analysis

Capacity booking

Fabric

Fabric consumption

size set

Machine details

Learning curve

PP sample

Needle and attachment details

Build up plan

Pattern details

Thread consumption

Trims

Other  accessories

Cutting

Embroidery

Printing Sewing

Finishing

Dispatch

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Part 2

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

GARMENTS DIVISION

The garments division consists of the t he following departments: 1. Fabric , Accessory Accessory and thread thread store 2. Sampling (Woven and Knits) 3. CAD department 4. Spreading and Cutting 5. Sewing /Production 6. Quality 7. Finishing/Packaging 8. Maintenance 9. Industrial engineering 10. Production Production Merchandising Merchandising 11. Production planning and control co ntrol The other auxiliary departments consists of  12. Embroidery 13. Printing 14. IT These departments work in coordination with each other for the purpose of fulfilling the objective of qualit quality y and mass produced garments or Apparels

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.1 FABRIC STORE 1.1.1 PROCESS FLOW

Fabric Receive against DC from Mill

Making Challan In-word

Physical Recording

Quality Checking

Receive of Actual Consumption as as per IE Dept.

Issue the fabric to cutting against DC

Reconciliation for Fabric against Particular Order. Order.

In-word and Out-word Stock Record (Physical)

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.1.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY The goods are received and unloaded at the unloading bay. The fabrics are received and stacked in “TO BE INSPECTED” area. Physical check is done on the received goods to confirm details like Style No, colour, P.O.no, weight per lot; etc which are provided in the PI(Production information) sheet. Physical check is done for 100% of  the received quantity/stock. A sample swatch from the bulk is sent to buyer for  approval. After Physical check the goods are transferred to their respective storage areas after which quality inspection is done. Quality inspection consists of  checking the actual GSM, shrinkage, shade and colour continuity card using various testing tools. The colour continuity card is used for the purpose of dividing the fabric into various batches for avoiding shade variation within garment /batches. First Quality inspection is done on 10% of the quantity using Four point system. If the inspection criteria are not met then again 15-20% of the remaining quantity is checked. Fabrics that fail the inspection criteria are sent back to the mill for replacements as the fabric sourcing is in-house. A fabric checking machine is used for woven garments whereas for knits physical checking is done. Quality inspection takes around 2 days to complete. If one particular lot fails then fabric Dept must have details like weight of  the lot and Storage area etc. Lot passed with Four point system either has to be issued to cutting with the DC as against the actual consumption determined by IE Dept. The Dept also maintains the Reconciliation Report for each Style for  referencing. Record maintenance of the In-word, Out-word and Stock Record for  each Style is maintained both physically and in computerized formats. Fabric Trim chart is also developed style wise to confirm required fabrics are received. Sampling fabric for sampling purposes is stored in racks different from bulk fabrics. The fabric dept mainly communicates with cutting, merchandising, IE, sampling for performing its responsibilities.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.1.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

IE

DISPATCH

SAMPLING

FABRIC STORE

PPC

QUALITY

PROD. MERCHANDISING

IT

CUTTING

•

IE dept- Fabric details like length (woven), diameter/width and GSM (knits) are sent to IE for consumption determination.

•

PPC dept- Fabric receival date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC for planning and scheduling.

•

Quality dept- Quality inspections are carried out and sent for verification and approvals.

•

Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the fabric received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.

•

IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through various SAP modules.

•

Sampling dept- The fabric for the purpose of sample piece stitching is provided by the store. These fabrics are specially kept and checked to ensure quality.

•

Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the fabric coming into the factory and outward of the fabric lot going back to the mill from store is maintained by the dispatch.

•

Cutting dept- The cutting department relies on the store for quality clearance and issue of the fabric for cutting purposes. 14

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

FABRIC STORE DETAILS No. of shifts

2

No. of Workers

11

No. of Quality Personnel

9

Area Covered

19260sft (180 x109)

Capacity

50 tonnes

Machinery

1. One Fabric inspection machine (Make Yash co.) (with meterage counter)Hydro Trolley

MIS

SAP (MIGO Module)

Storage

1. Racks (5) (sample fabrics) 2. Pliers (500 kg)

Tables

Four Inspection Tables (12’ X 6’ X 3’)

Tubelights

160 (80 X 2)

Fans

40

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.2 ACCESSORY STORE 1.2.1 PROCESS FLOW

Trims received rece ived

Physical check

Storage

Receival of  consumption from from IE

Issue to sewing /cutting

RECO for stock

In-word and Out-word Stock Record (Physical)

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.2.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES Trims and accessories are received in bulk at the fabric store where physical accounting of the stock is done. Visual quality inspection is carried out for the 100% of the stock. Inspection consists of checking the physical properties like colour, shape, size and design. This inspection takes around 48-36 hrs to complete. An inspection report is sent to the quality, IE and PPC departments. The inspected stock is brought to the accessory store for storage. Movable four level racks are used for  storage purposes with the name of buyer on them to store the trims respectively. A trim chart is also maintained style wise for tracking their receivals. The accessory store issues trims as per indent. The rejected stock is returned to the vendor as the sourcing is not in-house. In-ward/out-ward, issue and RECO are maintained on a daily basis. 1.2.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

SAMPLING

DISPATCH

PROD MERCHANDISING

(INWARD OUTWARD)

ACCESSORY STORE

PPC

IT

(TRACKING)

(MIS)

SEWING/CUTTING

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

•

PPC dept- Trims received date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC for planning and scheduling.

•

Merchandising dept- Communication Communication for the purpose of follow up of the trims received and also receives the PI sheet of orders.

•

IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through various SAP modules.

•

Sampling dept- The trims for the purpose of sample piece stitching is provided by the store.

•

Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the trims coming into the factory and outward of the trim lot going back to the vendor from store is maintained by the dispatch.

•

Cutting/Sewing dept- The departments rely on the store for issue of the trims for cutting/sewing purposes.

ACCESSORY STORE DETAILS No. of shifts

1

No. of Workers

6

No. of Quality Personnel

3

Area Covered

972sft (54 x18)

Storage

Eleven Movable Racks (4 level) (Kompact systems) ((70” X 30” X 104”)/rack)

MIS

SAP (MIGO Module)

Machinery

Digital weighing machine

Tables

Two Inspection Tables (12’ X 6’ X 3’)

Tubelights

20(10 X 2)

Fans

6

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.3 THREAD STORE 1.3.1 PROCESS FLOW Thread to Order received

Colour matching

Approval from Merchandiser

Purchase Requisition sheet (manual)

PR Approval

PR registration

Generate P.O

Thread ordering

Received

Inspection

Storage

Issue

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.3.2 ISSUAL PROCESS FLOW Requisition slip

Thread cones /boxes issued

Issue slip entry

Bin card entry in thread stack

1.3.3 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES Thread booking is directly done from the factory store. The production merchandiser  provides the consumption details for a particular order along with thread samples. Colour matching is done using the fabric swatch. Vendor thread card and thread samples are compared and the matching threads are attached on the swatch and sent to merchandiser for approval. After the approval, a manual purchase requisition (P.R) sheet is prepared and approved from the merchandiser. P.R registration is done on SAP. Purchase Department prepares the Purchase Order (P.O) and places the order. The order quantity is received at the thread store and undergoes physical check against P.O. Inspection is also done for checking quantity per cone, colour or  shade and various other thread properties. After inspection threads are stored stack wise. Each thread stack has a BIN CARD which is used for record purposes. Thread issue is done when a requisition slip is received from sewing line. The required quantity is issued in form of cone or boxes of ten cones. Issued quantity is recorded on the issue issue slip and filed. Successively Successively entries are recorded recorded on the Bin Bin Card. Bin Card provides all details of thread issued and the quantity left in the stack date wise.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1.3.4 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

SAMPLING

DISPATCH

PROD. MERCHANDISING

(INWARD OUTWARD)

THREAD STORE

PPC

IT

(TRACKING)

(MIS)

SEWING

•

PPC dept- Thread received date, quantity and other details are sent to the PPC for planning and scheduling.

•

Merchandising dept- Communication for the purpose of follow up of the thread received and also receives the consumption and thread details of  orders.

•

IT (MIS) dept- Various record keeping and data management is done through various SAP modules.

•

Sampling dept- The thread for the purpose of sample piece stitching is provided by the store.

•

Dispatch dept- The gate inward of the thread coming into the factory and outward of the thread going back to the vendor from store is maintained by the dispatch.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

THREAD STORE DETAILS No. of shifts

1

No. of Workers

6

No. of Quality Personnel

0

Area Covered

600sft(20’X30’)

MIS

SAP (MIGO Module)

Storage

8 Movable racks

Tables

4

Tubelights

16(8X2)

Fans

4

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2. SAMPLING (WOVEN AND KNITS) 2.1 PROCESS FLOW FOR FIT F IT SAMPLING

TECH PACK FROM MERCHANDISER

FIT SAMPLE

BUYER COMMENTS AND APPROVAL

SIZE SET

COMMENTS AND APPROVAL

PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

BUYER COMMENTS AND APPROVAL

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.2 PROCESS PROCESS FLOW FOR CONCEPT SAMPLING

TECH PACK

CONCEPT SAMPLE

RED SEAL SAMPLE

APPROVAL

BLACK SEAL SAMPLE

GOLD SEAL SAMPLE

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.3 PROCESS FLOW IN SAMPLING SAMPLING

TECH PACK ANALYSIS

PATTERN PATTERN MAKING

FABRIC ANALYSIS

SAMPLE CUTTING

SAMPLE CONSTRUCTION

FINISHING AND PACKAGING

MERCHANDISER

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.4 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY The department is responsible for making various samples for buyer approvals. Sampling starts right after Order Confirmation Meeting (OCM). The buyer tech-packs are sent to the production merchandiser who in coordination with sampling department develops requisite samples or re-engineers the existing one. Based on the requirement of buyer various samples are prepared before production. Department analyzes the tech-pack received and prepares patterns accordingly on CAD (Computer Aided Design) or manually. During the pattern making fabric analysis is done and ordered for sample development. Accordingly samples are cut and tailor stitched. After the samples are created they are sent to the merchandiser  for buyer approval. The comments given by the buyer are analyzed and acted upon. Sampling ensures that anything that goes into production is approved with no further  changes. The tailors are in three groups with each group developing single sample. The approved fit sample is sent to the IE department for production feasibility and costing purposes. After confirmation on the PP sample the production merchandiser  creates the PI sheet including buyer comments received. Records regarding incoming fabric, samples developed and samples despatched are maintained on a regular basis.

2.5 TERMINOLOGIES •

Tech-packTech-pack- It is a document document provided by the buyer buyer that contains details details such as measurements, fabric and trim details, technical and construction details and packaging details.

•

SamplesSamples- The various types of samples prepared are:

o

Fit sample- It is the first sample developed in compliance with the spec sheet. It is optional to create the sample using substitute fabric and trims. Usually fit samples are of middle range size. Fit approvals are required from the buyer on this sample.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

o

Size set- This consists of a group of four to five graded sizes. This is required to obtain approval on the grading of sizes. Any comments received on fit samples are applied here. These samples are made from actual fabric, trims and packaging materials exactly as per techpack.

o

Pre-Production (pp) sample- This is the final sample developed with all comments received from the buyer using actual trims and fabric. This is the last sample in which changes from buyer is accepted. This sample acts as reference for production. It is developed with strict adherence to the tech pack. After approval a FFP (fit for production) seal is put up on it. It then is called the FFP sample.

o

TOP (top of production) sample- This sample is the top most sample from the pilot run from a real production line. Buyer approval is required on this sample in order to proceed further. The purpose of the sample is to determine whether all requirements are met while mass production.

o

Concept sample- It is the first sample created in order to present the fit and concept of the garment. It may be developed in substitute fabric and trims. The measurements can be in i n tolerance range.

o

Red seal- This is similar to size set samples of two to three sizes with fit conformance. The sample can be developed in substitute fabric and trims.

o

Black seal- It is similar to the PP sample and is made of actual fabric and trims. This sample is optional and is developed on buyer demand.

o

Gold seal- This sample is similar to TOP sample and is required to determine if all specifications are met during production.

•

Photo shoot sample- This sample is developed for buyer’s marketing and advertising purpose. It has to be made from actual fabric and trims. It is developed in between Fit and PP samples.

•

Salesman sample- (SMS Sample) This sample is developed in quantities of  8-12 garments. These samples are required by the buyer for his marketing purposes. These samples are exactly as per tech packs on actual fabric and trims.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

2.6 DEPARTMENTAL DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PROD. MERCHANDISING

FABRIC,THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE

QUALITY

SAMPLING

PRINTING

•

EMBROIDERY

PROD. MERCHANDISING- The department co-ordinates with the sampling department during sample development for buyer requirements and approvals and another follow ups.

•

QUALITY- Quality department receives all critical buyer comments regarding quality on PP samples for the purpose of quality control.

•

EMBROIDERY-

The

department

provides

sampling

with

requisite

embroideries as per buyer need. •

PRINTING- The department provides sampling with requisite prints as per  buyer need.

•

FABRIC, THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE- The required fabric trims and accessories are issued to sampling department from these stor es.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

SAMPLING (woven and knits) No. of shifts

1

No. of Workers

30

No. of Pattern master 

5

Area Covered

3700 sft ((75’ X 18’) X 2)

Machinery

1. Flat locks (Pegasus)-8 2. Over lock (Pegasus)-10 3. Feed of the arm(Kansai special)-3 4. SNLS(Juki)-17 5. 1 Riveting m/c(Tony) 6. 1 straight knife(Blue streak) 7. 1 Ramsons Ramsons veit iron table 8. 1 Picotting m/c (Pegasus) 9. 1 buttonhole (Juki) 10. 1 buttoning m/c (Juki)

MIS

SAP and excel sheets

Storage

2 racks

Tables

2 pattern making tables

Tubelights

54 tubes

Fans

15

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

Average process Lead times

•

Fit sample- 2 to 3 days d ays

•

Revised sampling- 2 to 3 days

•

Size set sample- 15 days

•

PP sample- 3-5 days

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

3. CAD (Computer Aided Designing) 3.1 PROCESS FLOW

Tech-pack from sampling

Base Pattern development

Grading

Size set pattern

Ammend Size set

Final pattern

Marker making

Calculate consumption (IE)

Revised Marker making

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

3.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES The cad department receives tech-packs from sampling department for  pattern development. The patterns are developed as per the spec sheet with style details. The patterns are developed using Gerber Accumark PDS (8.2.1) Package. Patterns developed manually are digitized using a digitizer (Gerber  Digitizer). The patterns prepared on the CAD are plotted on a plotting paper  by a Gerber Plotter. The plotted patterns are cut-out manually and pasted on cardboard. These patterns are used for quality checking, referencing, sampling purposes and cutting. After pattern development marker making is done on AccuNest by importing the pattern pieces and placing them as per  the ratio in the tech-packs. The marker document consists of details such as length, width and percentage utilization along with a pictorial diagram of  marker plan. During sampling stage the marker plan is sent to the IE department for consumption calculations. A revised marker plan is made after  the bulk fabric has been received in the fabric store. The revised marker is made on the basis of the actual diameter/width received and sent to the IE department for revised consumption calculation. The final marker plan is prepared and sent to the cutting section with the sealed patterns. The CAD keeps the previously made patterns for future referencing in a stack.

3.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PROD. MERCHANDISIN G

QUALITY

IT

CAD

CUTTING

SAMPLING

IE

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

•

PROD. MERCHANDISING- The merchandiser checks the developed patterns and also suggests changes if required to t o comply with the buyer needs.

•

QUALITY- Quality department receives the sealed patterns for quality control of cut pieces from cutting.

•

CUTTING- The cutting receives the marker plan and pattern pieces for  cutting.

•

IE- IE calculates the fabric consumption as per the marker plan developed so as to determine and confirm the fabric consumption.

•

SAMPLING- Development of pattern pieces for the purpose of sample development is done by CAD

•

IT- It maintains Network layout between Gerber Cutter and the CAD, and the software and hardware.

CAD No. of shifts

1

No. of Pattern Master 

2

No. of Marker Makers

1

Area Covered

96 sft (12’ X 8’)

Machinery

1. Gerber digitizer (16 button cursor) 2. Gerber Plotter (Infinity series) 3. 4 Desktops

CAD Software

Gerber Accumark •

PDS

•

AccuNest

Storage

Racks-2

Tables

2

Tubelights

14 (7 X 2)

Fans

4

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

4. SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT 4.1 PROCESS FLOW PI SHEET

SIZE SET CUTTING

QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION

SIZE SET APPROVAL

PRODUCTION PROGRAMME FABRIC ISSUE REQUISITION

FABRIC ISSUE

SPREADING

CUTTING

TICKETING

BUNDLING

STORAGE

ISSUE 33

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

4.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES The cutting department receives the PI sheet from the Production Merchandiser which contains all the details of the order. Accordingly before mass cutting sample cutting of size set (jump sizes) is done and sent to quality department for approval. After receiving approval on the size set lay order plan/production programme is prepared and sent to the CAD, cutting and the spreader. The lay order plan is prepared as per the ratio to be cut and the quantity to be cut. The spreader refers to the lay order plan for the length, the number of plies and lays for spreading. Spreading is done either by automatic spreader (Gerber XLS 50) or manually. Spreading for solid fabrics is done by automatic spreader while for yarn dyed fabrics and striped fabrics it is done manually. The spreading is done batch wise so as to avoid any shade variation. Batch changes during spreading are differentiated using fabric strips running across the length of the lay. No splicing is done and the end bits that are left are used for the purpose of preparing piping. Relaxation spreading of shrinkable fabrics is done. These are left as spread for 12-24 hrs to relax and reduce the effect of shrinkage after cutting. Spreading for stripes, yarn dyed fabrics is done in short lay lengths matching for stripes. Cutting for solid and All Over Print (AOP) fabrics is done on automatic cutter  (Gerber GT7250). The cutter is movable between 3 spreading tables from where the fabric lays are fed by air floatation. Cutting for yarn dyed, checks and stripes are cut by Block cutting. Blocks according to size of patterns are cut using a straight knife (Blue streak). The pattern pieces which can be cut on fold are widthwise folded individually and layering done and cut using half  pattern pieces. It is also known as recutting. The cut pieces are transferred to the QC table where cut pieces are randomly selected from the lot and verified with original patterns. Checked lots are then sent for ticketing. Ticketing is done to identify the lay number, batch and size. These tickets are necessary to avoid shade variation and piece mix-match. Ticketing is done using ticketing machines on each part and piece. After ticketing all the parts of the garment are bought together and bundled as per their sizes and batch. A Bundle ticket is attached to the bundle which contains details like, number  of pieces in bundle, lay number details, batch and other order details. Parts that require fusing, embroidery or printing are separately bundled and sent to 34

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

respective departments. After the auxiliary processes are complete these pieces are returned to cutting and bundled along with other garment pieces and sent for production. The cutting also reworking section that replaces the cutting rejects from the sewing line with fresh pieces of same batch. In case of rejections of garments from finishing the cutting provides extra cut pieces with the fabric available to fulfill the order quantity. Piping for binding purposes is prepared using piping cutter machines of requisite widths. For  this the end bits are stitched to form tubular fabrics on over lock stitching machines.

4.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PROD MERCHANDISING

CAD

FABRIC STORE

SPREADING AND CUTTING

MAINTAINANCE

PRINTING

SEWING

QUALITY

EMBROIDERY

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

•

PROD MERCHANDISING- Provides the PI sheet and all the details of the order to be cut.

•

FABRIC STORE- It issues the fabric for cutting process as per the PI sheet.

•

SEWING- Cutting issues all the cut pieces required for sewing process.

•

QUALITY-Quality QUALITY-Quality checks all the cut parts of a garment before they are sent to sewing.

•

EMBROIDERY- Pieces required for embroidery are sent to embroidery department.

•

PRINTING- Pieces required for printing are sent to printing pri nting department.

•

MAINTAINANCE- Maintenance keeps all the machines in working condition by preventive and breakdown maintenance.

•

CAD- The pattern and the marker plan for spreading and cutting is provided by the CAD department.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

SPREADING AND CUTTING No. of shifts

1

No. of Workers

56

No. of Cutting master 

2

Area Covered

39240sft

Machinery

1. Ticketing (Blitz Textil 2253)-10 2. Over lock (Juki)-2 3. Piping cutter cutter (Svegea (Svegea Sweden Sweden EC50)-2 4. SNLS(Juki)-2 5. SNLS (PFAFF)-2 6. Straight linear fusing press (Hashima HP600LFS) 7. Straight knife (Blue streak)-8 8. Band knife (Eastman EC 900N/EC700N)-2 9. End Cutter (Eastman EC 3)-3 10. Continuous press with Folder for piping press (Hashima HPM 600CA)-2 11. Straight linear fusing press (Hashima HP600LFS)-1 12. Linear

continuous

press

(Hashima

HP900L CS) 13. Gerber Cutter GT7250 14. Gerber spreader XLS50-2 MIS Storage

Tables

SAP and excel sheets •

Racks-4 (end bits)

•

Racks-2(piece replacement)

•

Racks-2( running style patterns)

•

Racks-4(piping storage)

•

Spreading tables-4 (20m X 2m)

•

Printing and embroidery issue-1

•

Printing and embroidery sorting-1

•

Panel replacement-1

•

CAD -2 37

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

•

Pipnig-1

•

End bits-1

•

Manual cutting(knits)-1

•

Fusinng-1

•

Bundling and ticketing-3

•

Quality checking-2

Tubelights

1320 (660 X 2)

Fans

96 (96 x 2)

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

38

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5. SEWING/PRODUCTIO SEWING/PRODUCTION N 5.1 PROCESS FLOW

CUTTING ISSUE

LINE ISSUE

FEEDING

SEWING

END LINE CHECKING

FINISHING

5.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES The sewing floor consists of main production activities such as sewing, finishing and packaging. Cut pieces for sewing are issued from the cutting department to the sewing floor through lift. Reports are maintained regarding issuals to sewing. Accordingly the pieces are issued to lines responsible for  sewing. There are storage racks to keep cut pieces at the start of every line. Feeding is done into the line bundle wise. All parts of garment are assembled together in roll form. Before assembly of pieces they are checked for any quality related issues and accordingly rejected and recorded. An input statement of the bundles is also maintained along with the details of the rejected pieces. The rejected pieces are returned back to the cutting for  39

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

replacement to the line. Sewing lines follow unpaced manual

Unit

Production System. The machines in the sewing line are laid out as per  sequence of the operations for knits and for woven bundle system is followed for small parts and UPS for assembly. Each line has supervisor responsible for managing daily production activities. Line writers are kept to track production, arrange accessories, get replacement pieces from cutting, get thread and maintain record. Usually 2 or 3 lines are tracked by one writer. Every line has a Quality checker and every three lines have a Quality assurance appointed by QC department. Operators at each workstation pick up the garment from aisle space on the right side and perform the operation required. After the operation the garment pieces are again rolled and pushed ahead through aisle space for next operation. Check points are provided at various points in the line and end line. Garments from the production line are dispatched to the finishing on hourly basis. Before finishing the line writers count the pieces produced size wise after every hour. Every workstation in the sewing line is provided with necessary work aids to make the job easier  and a mechanical counter to account for the number of pieces produced per  hour which is recorded by line writer. This is used to calculate operator  efficiency and to find bottlenecks. Each line is provided with a production board on which hourly and cumulative production is displayed. Counter  samples of the FFP sample are provided by the sampling which is hung at the beginning and the end of the line. Every workstation has a miniature sample of operation to be performed. Details of the machine and maintenance records are also hung at every workstation. Format for Traffic Light System used to track defects are provided by quality department for each workstations. Storage boxes at check points are provided for collection of  rejected and alter pieces. The alter pieces are worked upon timely by the concerned operators to avoid production loss. Each line is provided with its own lighting facilities. Operators for operations are allocated based on their  training and experience due to unavailability of skill matrix. If dail y target is not met, overtime system is followed wherein only males work.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

IE

PPC

QUALITY

SEWING THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE

MAINTAINANCE

FINISHING/ PACKAGING

CUTTING

•

IE- The department is responsible for preparing machine layouts, line setup, managing productivity, efficiency, line balancing, time and method study.

•

QUALITY- Quality department constantly monitors the production process for  quality assurance. It is responsible for placing check points in-line and endline.

•

MAINTAINANCE- It constantly monitors the functioning of machines and undertakes preventive or breakdown maintenance as required. 41

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

•

FINISHING- It receives the production output directly from the sewing lines for  further processing.

•

CUTTING- The cutting department issues cut parts as input for the sewing lines.

•

THREAD, ACCESSORY STORE- These stores provide required quantity of  thread accessories and trims on timely basis basi s to sewing lines.

•

PPC- It keeps track of the production so as to ensure that deadlines are met and to take necessary correctional measures.

SEWING No. of shifts

1

No. of Workers

500

No. of Quality Checker 

20

No. of Quality assurance

7

Area Covered

51408 sft (including finishing)

Machinery

Refer annexure.

MIS

SAP (PP module)

Storage

Racks-20

Tables

80

Tubelights

2226 (1113 X 2)

Fans

320 (20 X 16)

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

42

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

6. QUALITY 6.1 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

IE

EMBROIDERY/ PRINTING

CAD

SEWING

QUALITY

PROD. MERCHANDISE R

FINISHING / PACKAGING

CUTTING

FABRIC STORE

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

6.2 DEPARTMENTWISE ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES •

IE- The IE department sends the Operation Bulletin and machine layout. The

quality department determines the check points (in line) by identifying the critical operations based upon the buyer comments received upon the PP sample and the complex operations. •

SEWING- Quality department assures quality production by appointing checkers, Quality control and Assurance personnel within sewing lines to monitor the production. The department also follows Traffic Light System (TLS) where in defects origin can be easily identified and rectified. In the TLS each workstation is equipped with the TLS format card. This card contains details of the quality that is being produced from the workstation. The quality control personnel is required to randomly check six pieces for six times during the shift. There are six circles in the format for each inspection which is coloured as per the number of defects found. There are three colours that represent the result of inspection. •

Red – if found two or more defects

•

 Yellow – if found one defect

•

Green – if found no defects.

Due to this it is called Traffic Light System. Using this system the QC can identify the workstation where quality issue originates. In case of Red colour the production from the workstation is stopped and solutions are looked for. The QA personnel look after major quality concerns and checks the details of the End Line checking. The QC is also responsible for developing AQL reports at the end of the shift based upon buyer AQL levels at end-line checking. The QC based upon his estimates for the production of the day, selects the required produced pieces criteria and determines the sample size for the AQL. QC then randomly inspects throughout the day of the required sample size and compiles the AQL report. The AQL report is generated similarly for in-line checking by the checker. The AQL reports helps in classifying the defects into critical, major and minor criteria. The quality also approves the size set pieces during pre-production phase. 44

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

•

FINISHING- Quality department is responsible for checking that all the buyer  requirements are met before dispatch. The quality is checked after pressing, folding, and packaging. After pressing the garments are sent to the final checking tables where teams of checkers check the garments for various defects. The defects found are classified and segregated for Spotting, Alteration, Mending and Rejection. Minor spots are mended on the checking table using petrol guns. The alterations are sent back to the respective lines based on the line number sticker attached under the label by the end-line checker. Mending is done done on a separate separate table after after which checking checking is done again. Rejection pieces are sent to the rejection room and recorded. Each Checker a sticker under the garment label containing a number specific to the checker himself. Then after checking the garments are sent for tagging. After  folding it is checked whether it has been done as per buyer requirements. Similarly various stages of packaging also checking are carried out to ensure adherence to buyer compliance. compliance.

•

CUTTING- Quality department regularly checks the cut pieces as per the patterns provided by the CAD. Department is also involved in the pre production phase where before bulk cutting, size set samples are approved before and after pressing. The quality checks the markers before cutting to ensure all requisite parts of the particular style are present.

•

FABRIC STORE- Quality department conducts inspection of received fabrics using Four point system and gives the reports on the feasibility on usage of  the fabrics. It prepares colour continuity card for shade variation in the received lot and divide them in respective batches. They also check the GSM (knits), width/diameter and length (woven). They look for knitting, dyeing and finishing defects in the fabric. A lot of fabric after arrival goes through 10% of  lot inspection. If positive, fabric is approved for production else it is subjected to 25% inspection excluding the previous 10%. If fabric fails then it is subjected to 50% checking excluding previous checked lot failing which the fabric is sent back to mill. On roll diameter variation is also recorded and minimum diameter is recorded as cuttable diameter. Usually 1- 1 ½ “of fabric end is left while measuring cuttable diameter due to end gumming and end

45

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

pinning. These reports are sent to IE, CAD and Merchandising department for  revised consumption calculation. •

PROD. MERCHANDISER-

Production merchandiser sends the buyer 

comments received on PP sample to the Quality department to ensure that these are looked after during production and also to determine in-line check points. And all major quality related issues during production are highlighted and sent to merchandiser by the Quality department regularly. •

CAD- It provides the quality department with pattern pieces and the marker  plan for quality control purposes.

•

EMBROIDERY/PRINTING- The quality department assigns a QC in these departments who checks the quality parameters of the outgoing materials to cutting. Parameters such as colour quality, fastness, shade, shape, size, thread type and their finishing. The chemicals used have to be in adherence to the buyer compliance.

QUALITY No. of shifts

1

No. of Checkers

45

No. of Quality Checker 

20

No. of Quality assurance

7

Documentation

AQL report(in-line, end-line, final and dupro) Fabric Inspection Report Size set approval report

Storage

Cupboards (AQL samples)

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

46

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

7. FINISHING/PACKAGING FINISHING/PACKAGING 7.1 PROCESS FLOW

RECEIVE GARMENT

STICKERING

PRESSING

FIINAL CHECKING

TAGGING

FOLDING

PRIMARY PACKAGING PACKAGING

SECONDARY PACKAGING

TERTIARY PACKAGING PACKAGING

FINAL INSPECTION

REPACKING

TO DISPATCH

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

7.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES The garments from the end-line after counting are bought for stickering. In the stickering process all the tickets on all the garment parts are removed and only a single ticket is left at the centre neck/waist band label of the garment. After  stickering the garments are sent for pressing. Steam press are used for pressing. During pressing the pressers ensure that the size of each garment parts are within tolerance for this purpose they are provided with hard paper scales having size markings for different parts of different sizes by quality department. The pressed garments are counted and stored. Then these garments are sent for  100% final checking where all possible defects are checked. The faulty garments are divided into SPOTTING, ALTER, MENDING and REJECTION. Rejections are sent to the rejection room and recorded. Alters are sent back to the lines from where they have been produced for alterations required. Mending of defects such as small holes, torn yarns and contamination removal are done. Minor spotting is done by the final checking itself by using petrol guns. In case of major spots it is sent to the spotting rooms. Spotting room is equipped with two specialise spotting machines that can be used to remove various spots by the use of various chemicals. Then these garments are sent back for pressing. After final checking Tagging is done wherein different tags such as barcode tags, buyer tags and price tags are attached with the help of plastic lock tag pins. Folding is done as per buyer approval. An approved folded sample is hung in the folding section. After folding garments, they are packed using primary packing materials such as poly-bags, hanger and packing box. After primary packaging the packed piece are sent to packing section by passing them through a metal detector to avoid metal contamination. In the packaging section secondary and tertiary packaging such as blisters and cartoon packaging is done. As per buyer requirements after  80-100% packaging final inspection is performed on the packed lot. The final inspection is performed by a third party approved by the buyer. The inspection is performed on the AQL level decided by the buyer. The inspection is of destructive nature where the whole sample size is completely checked for any possible defects. Based on this inspection the shipment is approved. The inspected garments are repacked and sent to dispatch. Reports such as daily rejection, finishing and packaging reports are maintained. 48

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

7.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

PROD. MERCHANDISING

MAINTAINANCE

FINISHING/ PACKAGING

DISPATCH

PPC

SEWING

•

QUALITY- Quality is involved in ensuring that proper finishing and packaging is done.

•

MAINTAINANCE- Maintenance looks after the press machines and steam generators regularly to ensure smooth functioning.

•

PPC- PPC keeps track of the pace of work so that the FI and shipment date are met.

•

SEWING- Finishing receives garment from end-line.

•

DISPATCH- Dispatch receives packed cartons for shipment.

•

PROD. MERCHANDISING- It provides the details of buyer approval regarding folding, packaging and carton car ton packaging ratios.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

FINISHING AND PACKAGING No. of shifts

1

No. of Workers

175 (pressers, workers, checkers, helpers)

No. of Quality Checker 

15

No. of Quality assurance

6

Machinery

1. Ramsons steam generator -3 2. Ramsons veit pressing pressing vacuum vacuum table- 49 3. Strapping machines-10 4. Folding machine (shirt)-4 5. Petrol guns-20 6. Spotting tables(Ramsons stain buster  CL1) 7. Tagging gun-20 8. Metal detector-2 9. Weighing machine 10. Trolley hydro-2

Chemicals used

1. Rust remover(textile remover(textile stain) 2. LTK-45 (yellow & black stains coloured fabric) 3. N9 (color stains on light coloured coloured fabric) fabric) 4. Hypobleach

(black

stain

from

white

fabric) 5. Emerol-ol (grease (grease and and hard hard mud stains) 6. Tin-ol (embroidery (embroidery and printing stains) Storage

Racks-6 Boxes -35 (Neel-kamal)

Tables

Tables (2.5’ X 11’) – 20 Inspection tables- 20 Tables (2.5’ X 5’)-11

Compliance norms

Metal free zone

50

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

8. MAINTENANCE MAINTENANCE 8.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES The maintenance department looks after all the machines in the garment division. The department is mainly responsible for: o

Machine maintenance, 

Preventive maintenance, and



Break down maintenance.

The maintenance department follows various procedures to ensure that the machines are in working condition and do not breakdown regularly. The department is divided into two parts: o

Needle and spare parts department and

o

Maintenance and repairs department

The needle and spare parts department is responsible for storage and issue of needles and machine spare parts. Department follows a ZERO NEEDLE POLICY. In this policy it is required to find all the parts of a broken needle before replacing it. The policy has been implemented as per buyer  requirements. In case a needle breaks, the operator reports to line supervisor  who in turn reports to the maintenance. A mechanic is issued a set of needles for replacement purposes along with a reporting chart for each needle box. Whenever a needle is replaced all the parts of the broken needle are pasted on the chart along with signature of the supervisor. Only when the mechanic returns completely filled report with all the broken needle parts of the replaced needles is he issued a new box of needles. In case the needle parts are not retrieved as per rule the supervisor and the mechanic must check within two meter diameter for 15 minutes and also check all the garments within this range by a magnetic bar. If the parts are still not found then the contaminated garment of this range are passed through large metal detector. If any garment is found with needle contamination it is separated and then the quality department checks the pieces by hand metal detector and keeps the record and these garments are rejected.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

ZERO NEEDLE POLICY PROCESS FLOW:-

NEEDLE BREAKAGE

REPORT TO MAINTENENCE

SEARCH FOR ALL APRTS OF THE NEEDLE

FOUND

NOT FOUND

DEPOSIT

SEARCH WITH MAGNETIC BAR

RECORD

CHECK WITH METAL HAND DETECTOR

REPLACE

FOUND

NOT FOUND

DEPOSIT

SEPARATE CONTAMINATED GARMENTS

RECORD

USE LARGE METAL DETECTOR

REPLACE

52

FOUND

NOT FOUND

DPOSIT

SEPARATE CONTAMINATED GARMENTS

RECORD

REJECT CONTAMINATED GARMENTS

REPLACE

NEEDLE REPLACED

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

8.2 PREVENTIVE AND BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE Preventive maintenance procedures are followed to ensure that the machines are in proper working condition and do not breakdown. To meet this purpose a preventive maintenance checklist is maintained at every workstation. Weekly checks are performed for various machine parameters to check the condition of  the machine. Breakdown maintenance is done in cases where machine malfunctions. In this case the maintenance personnel attend the machine and correct the malfunction as soon as possible to avoid production loss. A record of the maintenance done is maintained on a breakdown maintenance sheet kept at the workstation for  reference purposes. The machines having frequent breakdowns are taken out and replaced. There are three teams of mechanics, engineer and fitters in the maintenance department for repair works. All major repair jobs are done in the maintenance department. The department is equipped with all the required machines, equipments and spare parts to cope with all kind of breakdowns br eakdowns.. 8.3 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

IE

CUTTING

MAINTENANCE

FINISHING & PACKAGING

SEWING

53

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

•

QUALITY- During line setup the quality department works in co-ordination with maintenance for ensuring proper stitch settings. During Zeero Needle Compliance the quality department assists the maintenance for checking the garments for contamination.

•

IE- Before the line setup IE sends the machine layout required. As per the garment the maintenance department prepares the machines with appropriate needle and attachments.

•

SEWING- Maintenance department constantly looks after the machines in the sewing line and does preventive and breakdown maintenance.

•

FINISHING & PACKAGING- The department looks after the maintenance of  needle detector machine, pressing, steam generator etc.

•

CUTTING- The department looks after the maintenance of Gerber cutter, spreader, straight knives, band knives etc. It also maintains a record of all the replacement of blades of Gerber cutter. MAINTENANCE

No. of shifts

1

No. of Engineers

3

No. of Mechanics

10

No. of Fitters

5

Documentation

Zero needle policy report Machine maintenance record

Storage

Cupboards -4

Area

1188 sft (66’ X 18’)

Tubelights

30 (15 X 2)

Fans

10

Machinery

•

Lathe machine

•

Drilling machine

•

Buffing machine

•

Solding machine

•

Grinding machine

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9. INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING (IE) 9.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES IE have the following roles and functions:1.1. Consumption calculation cal culation 1.1.1. Fabric 1.1.2. thread 1.2. Line setup 1.2.1. Machine layout 1.2.2. Machine set-up 1.2.3. Line balancing 1.3. Productivity and efficiency management 1.3.1. Time study 1.3.2. Method study 1.4. Costing 1.4.1. Query stage costing 1.4.2. Pre-production costing 1.4.3. Final costing 1.5. Capacity planning 1.5.1. Capacity booking 1.5.2. Learning curve 1.5.3. Production feasibility 1.5.4. Built up plan 1.6. Incentive Incentive planning 1.6.1. Worker incentive 9.1.1 Consumption: 9.1.1.1 Fabric Consumption calculation – Consumption calculations for fabric and thread are done by the IE department. The fabric consumption calculation is done at two stages. First, before the fabric is ordered and second, after the fabric is received and inspected. After order confirmation the marker plan is made by the CAD and sent for consumption calculation by the IE department. The department calculates the fabric consumed per piece as per the marker provided with required wastages. The calculations for knits and woven are done separately. {(LENGTH X WIDTH X GSM) / 10000}/ NUMBER OF GARMENTS = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (KNITS) o

Length –length of marker

o

Width – width of marker

o

GSM – grams per square meter of fabric

o

Number of garments – number of garments in the marker 55

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

LENGTH OF MARKER / NUMBER OF GARMENTS (IN MARKER) = CONSUMPTION PER GARMENT (WOVEN)

In the pre-fabric booking phase the details of the fabric are provided by the merchandiser as given by the buyer. Consumption per garment is calculated and fabric is booked by the HO merchandisers based on this consumption. In the postfabric receiving phase the actual fabric details like Diameter, GSM, Length, Width, etc of are sent to the IE for revised consumption calculation. Revised markers are also prepared by the CAD based on the fabric received and sent t the IE. The IE crosschecks the consumption requirements and informs the merchandiser in case of  any irregularities. In consumption calculations the fabric width wastage for knits is taken to be 2” and for tubular 1”. The wastage added to the consumption per  garment for knits is 5% and for woven 3%.

9.1.1.2 Thread consumption calculation – Thread consumption calculation is done on an estimation basis. The consumption is calculated in the pre-production phase. The fit sample is provided to the IE by the merchandiser. The consumption is calculated by using machine consumption ratios and seam length. The machine ratios determine the consumption per centimetre of a particular seam. The consumption is calculated with wastages up to 30% for all the thread types used in the garment. The consumption per garment is calculated and sent to the merchandiser, who in turn prepares the consumption for the order quantity and sends it to the thread store for thread booking purposes.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.2 Line setup – During the pre-production phase IE performs various functions such as preparation of OB (operation bulletin), preparation of SAM’s, determining type and the number of machines required. 9.1.2.1 Machine layout – Before starting with the production IE determines the layout of the machines on the sewing line. This is based upon the sequence of  operations required. The number of machines required is calculated on the basis of  pitch time calculations. The pitch time is calculated as the sum of SAMs of the garment divided by the number of operations and then a comparison is done between the pitch time and the SAM of each operation. If the SAM value is more than the pitch

Pitch time = SAM (garment) / number of operations Number of machines required = SAM /Pitch time

time then the machine required would be equal to the division of the SAM by the pitch time, else a single machine is required for the operation. The machine layout chart consists of the operation names, machine names with attachments, SAM (expected) and target per hour. The estimated SAMs are provided using PDTS (pre determined time standards). The SAM of the garment is calculated as the sum of  SAM of all the operations. And the production target for each operation per hour and per day is calculated based on the expected efficiency. 9.1.2.2 Machine set-up – After the machine layout has been prepared the IE department in co-ordination with the maintenance department gets the machines set in the lines as per layout. The IE in co-ordination with other departments ensures that the machines are properly set for production with right attachments and settings. 9.1.2.3 Line balancing – After the line has been set, IE looks after the production of  the line to check whether any operation requires more or less machines. This is done for the purpose of optimization of production and efficiency to appropriate levels. IE also performs time study to determine the actual SAM to compare with the estimated value for this purpose.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.3 Productivity and efficiency management – IE looks after the production and efficiency of the lines to help the production meet its target and deadlines. Various tools used for this purpose are time study and method study. 9.1.3.1 Time study – It is an analysis tool for measuring the actual time for each operation.

The time study is done done using a stopwatch stopwatch and recording recording sheet. It It is

normally performed a week after line start-up. The time study is performed by ten continuous cycle time recording for each operation. Average for these values is calculated and a rating is given to the operators work. Based on the rating and the average time average time is calculated. Allowance factors are allotted depending upon the gender of the operator and the machine used in the operation. These allowances in combination with their basic time are used for deriving the SAM value. The time study is used for making pitch diagrams to identify bottlenecks in a line. A pitch diagram is a graphical representation of production of each workstation. The lowest point on this graph is taken to be estimated production of the line. This lowest value is also identified as the bottleneck operation. For which various steps are taken to improve its production. These steps include method study of the operation, physical check of the machine, sewing operation parameters, nature of fabric and material handling and motivation of operator to upgrade. 9.1.3.2 Method study – Method study is performed by studying the operational methods used by the operators. The main aim of the method study is to provide pr ovide easy and streamlined way of doing an operation. The method study aims at reducing wasteful or avoidable movements in order to reduce time for the completion of the operation. It is done by observing the operators initial work methods and recording the details of work method such as elemental time required for each type of motion and frequency of motion. motion. Analysing the recorded data and finding finding a feasible solution solution to reduce the manual work and cycle time a new work method is proposed. The proposed work method is tested for feasibility and accordingly implemented.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.4 Costing – The IE department is responsible for costing at three stages. Query stage, pre-production stage and final costing. 9.1.4.1 Query stage costing – Query is a stage at which a buyer approaches the company for the purpose of acquiring the approximate details of the costing for a style of which the buyer proposes production. At this stage the IE provides the rough estimate on the manufacturing cost of the garment to the buyer on past data and experiences. This costing is marked up for the purpose of negotiation. 9.1.4.2 Pre-production costing – After the order confirmation the buyer decides the rate at which it will pay the company. Using this cost as the basis costing is done so as to ensure considerable profits. The costing at this stage mainly consists of  material cost, CMT charges (Cut Make Trim) and profit. It is necessary at this stage to adjust the cost at lowest possible. To meet such requirements tries to keep a control on the consumption quantity of materials. The CMT charges are calculated department wise as per the machinery and labour invested. The CMT charges are also affected by the purchase of new machinery for the manufacturing of the order. CMT = {(SAM of garment) X (cost/min of factory)}/ efficiency (expected) Cost/min of factory – It is the cost of running the factory for a min.

These details are sent to the HO for compilation of cost for the order. 9.1.4.3 Final costing – This costing is the final costing done at the completion of  order to calculate the cost incurred for order completion. Using reconciliation statements of various departments such as stores, cutting, sewing, finishing and packaging final costing is done to compare the cost with the one given at preproduction phase. Any kind of revision in consumption of materials and work investment that are done in-house is highlighted. If the revision is incurred due to the demands of the buyer then the cost for that is added to the buyer’s cost. The final objective of this costing is to determine profit or l oss that factory incur.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.5 Capacity planning – The IE does capacity planning during the pre-production phase in which it prepares a plan for production on monthly basis depending upon the capacity available in the factory. Capacity booking consists of balancing work between different work departments such as cutting, sewing, embroidery, printing, finishing and packaging depending upon their available capacities. 9.1.5.1 Capacity booking – In capacity booking it is checked whether the departments in the factory can meet the production requirements of the orders. It also helps in determining if the orders are to be executed in-house or be given for    job-work. The capacity booking depends upon constraints such as machinery and production capacity available. It also helps in planning the work as per capacity and helps in deciding the time period up to which production shall take place depending upon various variables. In this the requisition of new machinery is also looked after if  required. 9.1.5.2 Learning curve – The learning curve is used for estimating the production timeline and efficiency at which a style will be produced. There are four types of  learning curves: •

Fast

•

Rapid

•

Normal

•

Slow

The type of learning curve used to estimate the production pick-up is determined by the styling of the garment. Easier the style steeper (faster) the learning curves. 9.1.5.3 Production feasibility – IE checks the production feasibility for a style during the sampling stages by checking the machine and attachment requirements. Feasibility is also decided on the basis of the complex styling of the garment. 9.1.5.4 Build up plan – A build up plan is a plan made up of daily production targets in advance for an order based upon Efficiency, Learning curve, Capacity and other  production variables. It is represented in a timeline format with daily as well as cumulative production target. It i s prepared separately for each department.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

9.1.6 Incentive planning (workers incentive) – An incentive is awarded daily to operators for meeting or exceeding their productions targets. The incentive is awarded on various criteria such as SAM of the garment and minimum incentive quantity. Incentives are allocated using incentive slabs based upon range of SAM. The range of SAM decides the product category. Incentive plan is based on these product categories. For example a garment with a SAM of 12.5 min will lie in a category of Product 4 (12-14 min). According to the product category for minimum incentive minimum production per tailor is decided. The target to be achieved to be eligible for incentive is calculated as product of the number of tailors and target per  person. If the actual production of line is more than the target then production per  person is found and the incentive rate is selected in the incentive rate slab under the appropriate product category. The total operator incentive is calculated as the product of the incentive rate and the total production and incentive per operator is calculated by dividing this value by the number of operators. Per helper incentive is calculated as half the value of per operator incentive.

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9.2 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

SEWING

CAD

IE FABRIC STORE

PROD. MERCHANDISING

PPC

MAINTAINENCE

•

SEWING – The IE dept has various responsibilities relating to production such as Productivity and efficiency mgmt, line setup, incentive planning etc. these roles and functions are necessary for optimizing production and maximum utilization of available resources. r esources.

•

Quality - The IE sends the machine layout to the Quality department for the purpose of identifying in-line check points in accordance to buyer comments.

•

PROD. MERCHANDISING – The IE dept interacts with the Production merchandiser for costing and consumption estimation purposes. The IE assists the merchandiser in the process of costing.

•

PPC – The IE in coordination with the PPC department does the planning for  production. Capacity planning, booking and production timeline is done in coordination with the PPC. Time and action calendar prepared by PPC is used as a reference for planning production. The IE dept also makes the 62

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Build-up plan for each department depending on capacities for meeting production targets. •

MAINTAINENCE – The IE department provides the maintenance department with the required machine layout for preparing the machine and attachments as required for production purpose.

•

FABRIC STORE – The fabric store communicates with the IE department in relation to the bulk fabric received and their inspection reports for the purpose of revised consumptions on received fabric.

•

CAD – The CAD department makes the marker plan on the basis of which the IE calculates the consumption. consumption.

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10. PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING 10.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES The production merchandiser functions at the factory level and is different from the merchandisers who coordinate with buyers from head quarters. The production merchandisers do tracking and follow –up of orders in order to ensure that the work is completed in time and meets all buyer requirements. The merchandisers are responsible for each

and every every activity activity during order completion. completion. The merchandiser  merchandiser 

is required to get approval from the buyer regarding and aspect of the order ranging from sampling, sewing to packaging. Merchandiser plays a centre role in coordinating, instructing departments and decision making regarding any order  related issue. 10.1.1 PRE-PRODUCTION PHASE In the pre-production phase, production merchandiser is sent a tech pack from the buyer on lines of which sampling is to be done. The merchandiser along with the sampling look after meeting buyer needs and keep record of them. Consumption calculation and details for compiling costing and booking are done and procured from the IE department. The details of the consumption and costing are sent to head quarters. A Production information sheet is sent from the Head quarters that contains all production related information necessary for production execution .This PI sheet is sent to cutting, stores, embroidery/printing, sewing and finishing for complying with the requirements. 10.1.2 PRODUCTION PHASE After the PP sample from buyer is approved the merchandiser sends the buyer  comments received to all departments for reference. In the production phase the merchandiser looks after major issues that arise in production and follow up the details with H.O merchandisers regarding progress in work. As per buyer  requirement the merchandiser also provides each department with department specific instructions provided by the buyer, for e.g. folding technique, Packaging method and ratios. Merchandiser remains involved with the follow up and decision making of the order from beginning till the shipment. shipment.

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10.1.3 POST-PRODUCTION PHASE In the post production phase the merchandiser tracks and follows up the final inspection. It is also necessary to ensure that the order is ready on time and shipped as required. At this stage it is required to compile a report of the actual cost incurred for profit /loss analysis purpose. The merchandiser in coordination with the IE compiles the data relating to final costs incurred. This costing is based upon RECO statements of departments and cost incurred by each. This costing is sent to the H.O for accounting Profit and loss.

10.2 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

QUALITY

PPC

SAMPLING

FINISHING & PACKAGING

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING

PRINTING

FABRIC STORE

CAD

EMBROIDERY

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•

QUALITY – The merchandiser provides the comments received on the PP sample to the quality department for keeping it in view while quality checks.

•

PPC – The merchandiser follows up the details about various production phases to the PPC department for the purpose of tracking revising and following the TNA calendar.

•

FABRIC STORE – The merchandiser receives communication regarding the fabric received and their inspection report for crosschecking of the actual fabric details to that of the t he booked fabric details.

•

CAD – The merchandiser provides tech-pack details, size ratios and grading details for preparing the patterns and marker plan.

•

EMBROIDERY/ PRINTING – The merchandiser provides the art work required in the garment gar ment to these departments.

•

FINISHING & PACKAGING – The merchandiser provides the details regarding folding and packaging.

•

SAMPLING – The merchandiser follows up all the details of all stages of  sampling and all the communication between sampling and buyer goes through this department only. The merchandiser is also responsible for  receiving approval for various samples from buyer.

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11. PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL (PPC) 11.1 PROCESS FLOW

OCM

PLANNING

TNA

CONTROLLING

11.2 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY 11.2.1 Pre production phase After OCM details of the order are sent to the production merchandiser who in turn sends it to the PPC department. PPC department then starts the planning in order to determine the timeline during which each production activity has to be performed. To meet this purpose the PPC works in co-ordination with the IE department for  capacity booking and planning. As per the capacity booking the planning for the inhouse production is done. TNA action calendar is prepared accordingly to determine the duration for each activity. The TNA calendar consists of various dates such as sample approval, fabric booking, fabric receiving, production cut date, final inspection and shipment. A 90 day lead time on an average is taken for order  completion. The FI (final inspection) date is calculated as three day before the shipment date. The PCD (production cut date) is determined by backward calculations from the FI date and the days required for production purpose. The period between the order booking and the PCD is utilized for sampling and material procurement. The days required for production is calculated on the basis of capacity, efficiency, labour turnover, learning curve and other production variables.

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11.2.2 Production phase During the production phase the PPC is responsible for controlling the production rate. Micro planning is done on daily basis with IE department to meet required targets. PPC also keeps track on the material procurement dates such as fabric received dated for the purpose of revising TNA calendar. 11.2.3 Post production phase After the production PPC department keeps track of various activities such as finishing, washing, packaging and inspection dates and details.

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12. EMBROIDERY 12.1 PROCESS FLOW

ARTWORK FROM BUYER

SAMPLING

APPROVAL

MASS PRODUCTION 12.2 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW PIECES FROM CUTTING

TESTING

EMBROIDERY

THREAD CUTTER

QUALTY INSPECTION

TO CUTTING

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12.3 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY The embroidery department has a separate sampling process. The artwork from the buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that artwork on the CAD software Wilcom ES65. The artwork is redeveloped and samples are made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling phase the embroidery on the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork. During production the pieces requiring embroidery are received in bundle form. Embroidery is done on some of  the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After  checking embroidery on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for thread cutting. The protruding threads and fusing or lining fabrics are cut and finished. These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting department. During embroidery the centre point of the artwork is marked on a table using pins. A hoop is placed around the pins and another hoop on which the fabric piece is fastened and pressed over it. After the hoop is secured tightly they are placed under the machine heads with reference to the needle mark on the fabric. The design developed in the CAD is fed in the machine and embroidery is done as required. There are four 18-head embroidery machines (Barudan) which have capacity of 9-threads per head. Sequins and bead attachments are also available if  required. A 6-head embroidery machine is also available. A sixteen thread machine for complex embroideries is also available. Tear-able nonwoven linings are used as backing in embroideries. There are two types of tear-able nonwoven linings in use: (1 X 1) and (2 X 2). (1 X 1) is used for achieving high quality finish and is costly. For  appliqué works a laser engraving and cutting machine is used. The appliqué fabric is cut using this machine and attached to the fabric piece using embroidery and pasting. A needle detector used for detecting needles in case of needle breakage as per Zero Needle Policy. The consumptions for thread used here are provided by this department itself.

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12.4 DEPARTMENTAL DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES L INKAGES

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING

EMBROIDERY

CUTTING

•

QUALITY

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING – Prod merchandising provides the art work and follows up it with buyer for approvals.

•

QUALITY – Quality is involved in checking proper embroidery as per buyer  needs.

•

CUTTING – The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which embroidery is required and receives the output. EMBROIDERY

No. of shifts

1

No. of Workers

30

Storage

Racks 10

Area

1584 sft (88’ X 18’)

Tubelights

30 (15 X 2)

Machinery

•

Barudan (18 head 9 thread)-4 t hread)-4

•

Barudan (6 head 9 thread)-1 t hread)-1

•

Amaya XT (16 colour)

•

Golden laser cutting machine-1

•

Hashima metal detector  71

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13. PRINTING 13.1 PROCESS FLOW ARTWORK FROM BUYER

PREPARATION OF SCREEN

SAMPLING

APPROVAL

MASS PRODUCTION

13.2 PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW

PIECES FROM CUTTING

PREPARATION OF COLOUR

PRINTING

CURING

QUALTY INSPECTION

TO CUTTING

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13.3 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITY The printing department does following types of prints for garments: •

Plastic-sol print

•

Discharge print

•

PVC free print

•

Glitter print

•

Foil print

•

HD print (high definition)

•

Heat transfer print

•

Pigment print

The common printing technique used for these prints is screen printing. The artwork from the buyer is directly received via merchandiser. The department works on that artwork on the Adobe Photoshop CS3 software. The artwork is redeveloped, Screen prepared and samples are made and sent for approval. During the garment sampling phase the printing on the samples is done as per buyer approved artwork and the colors are selected as per the pantone chips sent by the buyer. During production the pieces requiring printing are received in bundle form. Printing is done on some of  the pieces and checked by the QC against the buyer approved sample. After  checking printing on the bundle pieces is done sequentially and sent for curing. These pieces are then checked for quality, re-bundled and sent back to cutting department. Types of colours used are of two type water base and oil based. PVC free and Pigment are water based while Plastic-sol is oil based. Screens are prepared UV light exposure method. The screen fabric used is 15T to 180T. They can be of  maximum size 3’ X 2’. The fabric is fastened on the frame and a chemical (Diazo cure) is applied all over the screen. Then the screen is semi-cured in a heater. The design is printed on a water-proof film and is placed centrally aligned on the screen. The screen is then placed in an exposing machine (Nu-arc Tri-light) and exposed in UV light. The areas not covered by design harden and become black while the other  areas remain transparent. Then the screen is washed and cured and checked on the touching table, if required re-exposing is done. The screen is then fitted on the machine and the required color is prepared. Before beginning with the mass production a sample printing is done to check whether the required colour is obtained or not. Then batch-wise printing is done on the printing machine. There are 73

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three screen printing machines of which two are automatic and one is manual. Up-to 10 colour printing can be done on the manual while in the automatic 10-16 colours can be applied. The machine rotates the garment gar ment piece under the screen heads. The screens descend on the pieces and automatic squeezing system applies colours. The number of strokes and number of squeeze depend upon the shade required. After printing the pieces are cured on a continuous curing machine. Then the pieces are checked, re-bundled and sent back to cutting.

13.4 DEPARTMENTAL LINKAGES

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING

PRINTING

CUTTING

•

QUALITY

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING – Production merchandising provides the art work and follows up it with buyer for approvals.

•

QUALITY – Quality is involved in checking proper printing as per buyer  needs.

•

CUTTING – The cutting is responsible for providing it with the pieces on which printing is required and receives the output.

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PRINTING No. of shifts

2

No. of Workers

26

Storage

Racks 8

Area

1870 sft (85’ X 22’)

Tubelights

28 (14 x 2)

Machinery

•

Cheran fusing machines-2

•

Transwift mini curing machine

•

M&R Chameleon manual printing machine (10 colour)

•

M&R challenger II –(10 colour) automatic

•

M&R challenger II –(16 colour) automatic

•

M&R sprint 2000 – automatic continuous curing machine

•

HIX fusing machine

•

Nu-Arc tri-light exposing machine

•

M&R

Digikote’T’

machine •

1 chamber heater.

•

Eye washer 

•

Washing machine

•

Weighing machine

75

automatic

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

14. INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY (IT) 14.1 ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES The IT department at Alok garment division, Saily looks after the IT infrastructure and its maintenance. There are various types of server like, E-mail, application, DNS (Domain Name Server) and anti-virus. ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) such as SAP (System Application of Production Planning) and Production Fast-react are used. Switches are used and bus topology is used for wired and star topology for  wireless networks. Virtual LAN system is used for network configuration. The SAP system is centrally controlled from H.O. There are four main modules of SAP such as •

Production planning (PP module)

•

Material management (MM module)

•

Sales and distribution (SD module)

•

Finance module (FI module)

Store departments use MM modules for inward and outward. The production departments such as cutting, sewing and finishing use the PP module for recording input and output. SD module is used by marketing and sales departments. The FI module is used by finance, accounts and administration department. Various other  reports are maintained manually using MS-excel other than ERP for backup purpose. Major reports maintained are: 14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report) 14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report) 14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report) 14.1.4 End-line report (hourly) 14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR) 14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units) 14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) 14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily ( daily weekly monthly and yearly) 14.1.9 Incentive reports 76

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

14.1.1 DFR (Daily Factory Report) – A daily factory report is compiled at the end of  the day. The report contains detailed production statistics of the work departments cutting, sewing, finishing, embroidery, printing and packaging. The production is compiled buyer/style-wise and line-wise. This report overall view of production of the factory. 14.1.2 DER (Daily Efficiency Report) – An efficiency report is maintained line-wise on daily basis for a month. 14.1.3 DPR (Daily Production Report) – A DPR is maintained on daily basis buyer-wise and line-wise for all the work activities performed. The DPR defers from the DFR as it represents size-wise details of each work activity. 14.1.4 End-line report (hourly) – End-line report is maintained for each line on an hourly basis for end-line production. 14.1.5 Daily rejection report (DR) – The daily rejection report is maintained for both sewing and finishing. 14.1.6 DHU percentage report (Defects per Hundred Units) – The DHU percentage is measured as the amount of defects per hundred units produced. The DHU is important for the purpose of quality control and to identify major/frequently occurring departments. The defects are classified and recorded respectively and line-wise. 14.1.7 Operator efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) – The report is compiled for the purpose of assessments and learning curve developments. 14.1.8 Style efficiency report (daily weekly monthly and yearly) – This report is maintained date-wise and line-wise. It contains the efficiency and the production achieved in a particular style. At the end of the style production a summary is compiled to know the average efficiency at which the style was produced. This bakchod report helps in future projections for capacity booking and planning purpose. 14.1.9 Incentive reports – This is generated on daily basis for calculating and recording incentives line-wise.

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PROJECT OBJECTIVE: To optimize thread consumption calculations using calculator  METHODOLOGY:

Study the process flow of thread consumption calculation.

Identify key areas of concern in calculation.

Following some of the finished and running styles of different buyers.

Analysis of various key points of  thread consumption

Proposal of a possible solution using IT tools

Development of thread cosumption calculator

Testing of the proposed solution

Comparison of the results with previous results

Implementation

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1. Estimating Thread Consumption

INTRODUCTION It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so as to estimate requirements for manufacturing finished product. Thread consumption can be determined in several ways. To calculate the amount of thread in a seam: 1) Measure the actual actual amount of thread consumed consumed in a specific specific length of seam. seam. 2) Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas based on the thickness of the seam and the number of stitches per inch. 3) Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.

ESTIMATED THREAD CONSUMPTION

Estimated thread consumption is calculated using thread consumption factor values of various machines. A specified length of the seam, for example 3 cm is measured on the seam and the thread is removed by carefully unravelling the stitch. Then the amount of thread consumed in one centimetre is multiplied with the factor times the total length of the seam measured in cm(s). The factors for each machine/stitch type is estimated average values based upon a middle SPI.These factors are an average value of thread consumed in a cm of a particular seam .

If different types of threads are used in the garment then it’s necessary to differentiate the consumption per thread. This differentiation is done at the seam calculation stages when the consumption per seam is calculated by the help of  consumption percentages for needle bobbin and loopers per machine t ype. If in case spreader is used in case of flatlocks then the consumption for looper and spreader is evenly distributed.

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Sl. No

Factor 

Machine name

(per cm)

%needle

%looper/bbn

1

Single needle lock stitch

2.5

50%

50%

2

Double needle lockstitch

5

50%

50%

3

Single needle chain stitch

5.5

25%

75%

4

Double needle chain stitch

11

25%

75%

5

4 needle chain stitch

22

25%

75%

6

Baby over lock

24

20%

80%

7

3 thread over lock

15

20%

80%

8

4 thread over lock

18

25%

75%

9

5 thread over lock

20

20%

80%

10

Flat lock (3 thread)

18

30%

70%

11

Flat lock (4 thread)

25

30%

70%

12

Flat lock (5 thread)

28

30%

70%

13

Single thread chain stitch

4

100%

0%

14

Welt pocket

5

50%

50%

15

Zig zag lockstitch

7

50%

50%

16

Saddle / pic stitch

3.5

100%

0%

17

Feed of the arm (2needle)

11

30%

70%

18

Feed of the arm (3needle)

16.5

30%

70%

19

Bartack

50

77%

23%

20

Button hole

50

75%

25%

21

Buttoning

40

100%

0%

22

Picotting stitch

28

25%

75%

23

Blind hemming

5

100%

0%

24

Baby o/l (3t)

28

20%

80%

26

Smocking

5

100%

0%

25

Radial tacking

50

27

Whip / blanket stitch

8.5

28

Fagotting stitch

5.5

Table1.1 – Thread consumption factors*

*The factors table for machines and the various distribution factors have been developed by the industry industry personnel (IE dept) Alok industries Ltd(Garments division Saily,Silvassa).

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2. Study the process flow of thread consumption calculation. calculation. PROCESS FLOW

Garment received in IE Dept

Fomation of operation bulletin

Measurement of the seams and recording

Identification of thread types

Format development for calculation

Data entry for calculation

Thread consumption distribution

calculating consumption

formation of report for merchandiser

Chart 2.1:- Process flow 82

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

1. Garment received in IE Dept

I.E. dept. receives the garments from the merchandiser after the approval for fit/size set is received. The calculation calculation for consumption consumption (fabric, thread) and S.A.M value is done following the receival.

2. Formation of operation bulletin The first step in thread consumption calculation is the formulation of the operation bulletin(OB).This helps in identification of various seams seams used in i n the garment. 3. Measurement Measurement of the seams and recording recording The seams identified in the previous step are measured using measuring tape. The measured seams are recorded accordingly. The measurements are carried out in centimetres (cms). (cms). This iis usually usually done to ease the work work of calculation calculation as

the

factors are available for per cm. 4. Identification of thread types As garments may contain/made up of different kinds of threads its necessary to identify locations where different types of threads are used in order to quantify their  consumptions required for placing orders for purchase purposes. 5. Format development for calculation An

excel

sheet

format is developed for the purpose of  calculation.

Fi 2.1 2.1::- Cons Consum um tion tion calc calcul ulat ation ion for forma matt

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6. Data entry for calculation Data relating to the seam lengths and the factor corresponding to the type of seam used is entered into the excel sheet format developed. The factors are referenced from the standard factors readily developed by the IE dept. 7. Thread consumption distribution The distribution of consumption consumption as per the threads required required in each seam is done by typing the consumption consumption formulas in the corresponding thread columns.

Fig 2.2 - Example of thread distribution

8. Calculating consumption The thread consumption per seam is calculated using the formula: Total consumption (mts) = (seam-length (S.L)(cm) X factor(per cm)/100) X No. of seams

The formula helps in formulation of total thread consumed in a seam irrespective of  the types of threads used. To segregate the consumption of different threads used in needle, bobbin and spreader the following formula is used:

Consumption (mts) = Percent consumption Per seam of needle/bobbin/looper X Total consumption in seam

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Based on consumptions of needle bobbin and spreader the consumptions are allotted/allocated to the thread t hread type used. 9. Formation of report report for merchandiser  merchandiser  Calculated thread consumption consumption is compiled into into a suitable report format format so as to be sent to the merchandiser for the purpose of booking the thread for a required amount of thread quantity. The IE dept only calculates per garment consumption for  a single approved sample of a particular size.

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3. Identification and analysis of key areas of concern in calculation. It is necessary to identify various variables involved in the calculation process required as these variables influence the consumption. The various variables involved are as follows:

⊕

•

Seam – Length measurement measurement

•

Wastage percentage

•

Thread distribution per seam (needle/bobbin/spreader).

•

Type of seam , garment and fabric type

Seam-Length measurement measurement

The seam length is an important factor influencing thread consumption. Seam length also determines how much waste and extra per seam of thread will be consumed. Preferably extra length is taken so as to consider the wastage during making the seam. ⊕

Wastage percentage

The wastage percentage is an important factor that helps determining the wastage required to cover the waste waste during production. Generally the wastage is taken to be 30 % of total consumptions. consumptions. ⊕

Thread distribution per seam (needle/bobbin/spreader)

The distribution of thread per seam (i.e. needle /bobbin/spreader), is a necessity for  the purpose of determining and quantifying the amount of thread required. Any variation in the distribution can lead to less/more consumption of a particular thread. ⊕

Type of seam/Garment and fabric type

The consumption also depends on the type of seam as different seams have different factors and thus the consumption variates. Any error in identification can lead to wrong consumption calculations. Consumptions also depend on the fabric type and garment construction technique as a light weight and difficult constructed seam have more consumptions as there are chances of error occurrences in them.

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3.1 Problems during thread consumption calculations The following are the commonly commonly observed

problems during thread consumption consumption

calculations(manual) presently followed:

Chart 3.1- Problems in consumption calculation ca lculation

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4. Proposal of a Feasible Solution Using IT Tools The solution proposed for the problems identified is based upon reduction of manual inputs in order to proportionately reduce the time consumed and the chances of error  occurrences. In order to solve the above enlisted problem we proposed a Thread consumption calculator(15 thread) ,built ,built in regular excel excel sheets using various various programming programming tools and controls. The objectives of the calculator are as follows: 1.

Eliminate the manual entry of factors for each seam type.

2.

Eliminate the need of formula entry for calculations.

3.

Eliminate the process of segregating consumption for different thread types.

4.

Eliminate manual calculation errors.

5.

Simplifying and automatic calculation of thread t hread consumption. consumption.

6.

Developing a user friendly and readily r eadily available interface and format.

7.

Automatic report generation of thread t hread consumption for merchandiser.

8.

Ease in calculation of consumptions of styles having up to 15 thread types

9.

Provide accurate and reliable results in l ess time.

4.1 Benefits of proposal The calculator shall provide provide a low cost and act as a feasible feasible solution with the various various objectives on which it has been developed. The calculator developed report has been developed on line with report compiled by the merchandiser for the order quantity that is forwarded forwarded to the thread store for the the purpose of thread booking The report generated shall also reduce the work of the merchandiser to compile and calculate consumption of the whole order quantity based on consumptions per  garment determined by the IE dept. The merchandiser would only be required to check the figures provided by the IE dept and continue by forwarding the report to the thread store. store.

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5 SOLUTION DEVELOPMENT (CALCULATOR) (C ALCULATOR)

IMPLEMENTATION TESTING DEVELOPMENT

DESIGNING

CONCEPTUALIZING

5.1 CONCEPTUALIZING In this process the concept of the calculator was developed. The inputs and and outputs required for the calculator have been designed in a way to reduce errors in calculation to maximum extent. The inputs required in the calculator are limited to that of seam length,operation length,operation bulletin and number of seams. Combo-box list provide a more easy way of machine selection for particular seam type.The selection of threads for needle ,bobbin and spreader have also been provided

with combo combo lists to enable

easy, fast and

accurate selections. Formulas in corresponding columns of needle, bobbin/looper,spreader and total consumption provide automatic calculations by retrival of factors automatically from the factor sheet.

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Automatic consumption report is generated as the consumption or data for  consumption is entered. This report is developed in a way that it reduces the compiling work of the t he merchandiser.

5.2 DESIGNING The calculator has been developed by keeping in mind a user friendly interface that can easily be understood and used by anyone. The calculator has been designed in worksheets worksheets using various linking , formula formula and programming features of excel. Consumptions for up to 15 Thread types can be determined by entering their  description in the thread description table. Seventy five (75) rows rows have been provided provided to cover long operation operation bulletins. Option for saving the consumption calculation file in user determined named location has been provided. Reset field option has been provided for instantly clearing field entries. A generate report option has also been provided provided for the purpose of automatic report generation. Combo box controls have been used in i n columns of machine type ,needle,bobbin and spreader thread description, description, wastage selection for the purpose of easy and quick selection. Linking between factor sheet and the main interface has been done using formulas such that automatic retrieval of factors factors is

possible thus thus reducing reducing the need for 

referencing the thread consumption consumption ratio table and mismatch mismatch in values. The report has been designed on lines of the real life report made by a merchandiser  for calculating consumption per thread for an order quantity for booking purposes.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3 DEVELOPMENT

5.3.1 FACTOR SHEET The development of the calculator started with the data collection of the factors/thread consumption ratios for different machines. This data was provided by the IE dept of Alok industries Garments division. A separate worksheet named “factors“ had been developed for the purpose of  tabulating the data of thread consumption ratios.

Fi 5.3.1. 5.3.1.1: 1:-- Thre Thread ad cons consum um tion tion facto factorr shee sheett

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3.2 WELCOME SCREEN The welcome screen contains a calculate button connected to the calculator  worksheet. This screen is purely a start-up screen meant for introductory display purposes.

Fig 5.3.2.1:- Welcome screen 5.3.3 REPORT SCREEN The report sheet consists of the report format which has links with that of  the calculator so as calculate the consumption for not only per garment for various thread types but also for the order quantity of the particular  style. This report helps in shortening the process required for compiling consumption for a order quantity.

Fig 5.3.3.1 – Consumption report for Merchandiser  92

Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3.4 Development tools and techniques The calculator has been made using formulas, referencing and programming tools. Linking has using sheet reference technique has been used for the purpose of value retrieval. 5.3.4.1 Formulas The formulas used range from mathematical, logical, lookup and reference and information. Some of the main formulas used are as follows: •

SUM()[mathematical]

•

IF()[logical]

•

OR()[logical]

•

VLOOKUP(Lookup and referencing)

•

ISERROR(information)

Fig 5.3.4.1.1– Total consumption calculation

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

Fig 5.3.4.1.2– Needle /bobbin/spreader consumption

Fig 5.3.4.1.3 – Needle /bobbin/spreader consumption allocation using logical formulas

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

5.3.4.2

Referencing

Cell referencing has been used in order to reference values from one cell to another  for purpose of creating the report, calculations and retrieve values in controls.

5.3.4.3

Programming Programming tools

Visual basic controls like command button and combo box list have been used for  the purpose of proving various functional f unctional features. Combo boxes have been used in columns like m/c selection, spreader used, needle, bobbin and spreader thread descriptions. These boxes help in easy and quick selection. Command buttons have been used to provide functionality such as saving, resetting fields and generating the report.

Fi 5.3.4. 5.3.4.3.1 3.1 – comma command nd but button tons s

Fi 5.3. 5.3.4. 4.3 3.2 – Dro Dro down down combo mbo box boxe es

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

6. Testing The calculator had been tested for its functionality by calculating the consumptions for previous, running and forthcoming styles in order to confirm and compare the results with the already calculated values so as to determine its reliability and error  free functioning. The following previously produced styles have been tested S.no

Style no.

Consumption

Consumption

%

(calculator)

(manual)

variation

1.

MB2196

99.236

99.349

0.11

2.

8623

174.850

174.85

0

3.

SAW 406

92.625

91.325

-1.42

4.

Dear hood

184.795

187.265

1.31

5.

8081

179.712

179.712

0

6.

EG 56

163.852

163.852

0

7.

Asahi

139.328

140.627

0.923

8.

FP002

221.033

221.292

0.11

9.

Bjornklader

254.475

254.475

0

10.

8054

505.81

505.81

0

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

CONCLUSION /DELIVERABLES

The thread consumption consumption calculator is an easy easy to use and and efficient tool tool to calculate thread consumptions. The calculator provides a hassle free interface for selection. A standard format helps in data entry purposes. A human error in data entry reduces r educes to only the seam lengths, number of seams and the seam type.

The calculator report

also provides a systematic systematic report of the consumption consumption

calculated. It also reduces the merchandisers work of compiling the consumption consumption for  order quantities based on the consumption per garment given by IE. The report can also be helpful in thread booking purposes purposes which can be sent to the thread store by the merchandiser from where the thread store can proceed with the process of  thread booking.

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Internship at Alok Industries Ltd (Garments Division), Saily, 2010

LEARNING EXPERIENCE The internship in many ways provided a platform for new experiences in terms of  industrial exposure exposure as well as personal experiences in terms of tour and travel to to new places and accommodating ourselves into the busy schedules which otherwise are not experienced in college. Industrial exposure not only drove our curiosity to know more than our limited textual knowledge but even compelled to get ourselves involved in the process as a whole. The project undertaken by us exposed us to the actual working feel and conditions and helped us to tune according to the industry needs. We first were allowed to observe as much and then our doubts were cleared. Various communication techniques and industrial practices which are important for  professional behaviour were learnt through our interactions with the industry officials. Our Interactions with our mentor Mr. Samuel Mupavvarapu were motivational and a inspirational interaction that fuelled our curiosity for internship with full confidence and dedication. The managers to whom we were entrusted to meet to learn about the respective dept.’s were were under huge pressures pressures of work but never did it happen that anyone would would deny us any answer to the the query which we would ask them at any point point of time, time, their such such generous generous nature helped us getting the information we required time to time.

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