Amsterdam In Your Pocket

May 7, 2018 | Author: In Your Pocket City Guides | Category: Amsterdam, Transport, Restaurant And Catering, Foods, Beverages
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The only guide to Amsterdam you will ever need......

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Amsterdam Autumn 2015

Autumn Events Film screenings, rock music and bock beer

Holland Highlights  A guide to the nation’s nation’s best sights

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E S S E N T I A L   CITY

GUI DES

Contents Lifestyle Directory Spas, sports and other useful information

E S S E N T I A L   CITY

48

GUI DES

Hotels

50

Beds for backpackers and business executives

Foreword

4

A few words from the editor

Arriving & Getting Around

5 8 10

From steaks and Dutch stamppot to sushi

Cafés

18

Hipster hangouts and coffee houses

Nightlife

20

Bars, pubs and clubs

Gay Amsterdam

28

A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam

Coffeeshops

30

Where to smoke responsibly

Sightseeing

34

Museums, churches and the like

Shopping Boutiques, souvenir shops and shopping centres

Holland Highlights

58

Cheese markets, canals and windmills

Getting to grips with Amsterdam

Restaurants

54

Interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring

How to get to and from your hotel

Amsterdam Basics

Amsterdam for kids

44

List of small features City centre tour Movember Order an uitsmijte uitsmijterr Café confusion London Calling Bock Beer Festival Red Light streets Documentary Document ary Film Festival Bet van Beeren’s café Bitter... balls? Embrace the haze Dutch souvenirs Ajax football matches Miraculous Amsterdam

9 13 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 30 31 45 48 51

Maps & Index Old centre map Amsterdam map Venue index

55 56 59 Explore Amsterdam’s Grachtengordel this autumn

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 Autumn 2015

3

Foreword Although wet and windy autumn days can seem daunting, the fall is actually our favourite season to spend in Amsterdam. The streets and canals seem less congested, queues at museums appear to be shorter and nectar-like bock beer returns to the taps our favourite watering holes around town. In fact, the arrival of this brown elixir of life is even celebrated with its own festival each year at the Beurs van Berlage building each October (see p.23). It’s also the perfect time of the year for a stroll along the city’s legendary Grachtengordel, which will be flanked by trees in all their yellow-leaved glory. If, however, you’d like to see a little more of this nation on the North Sea, then take a look at our Holland Highlights on p.58 and find the daytrip that suits you best. Naturally, this guide’s restaurant, café and nightlife chapters are full to bursting with unbiased reviews that will help you avoid the tourist traps and discover the perfect bistro, diner or upmarket establishment to experience Amsterdam.

Publisher © In Your Pocket Netherlands Ammerstraat 25, 5324 CA, Ammerzoden, Ammer zoden, The Netherlands ISSN 2211-2480 Company Office & Accounts  Tel.  T el. (+31) 653 79 91 46, [email protected], [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com Amsterdam In Your Your Pocket is printed by SIA DuGa in the EU Editorial Editorial team Martins team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld Layout & Design Martins Design Martins Zaprauskis Research Theo Research  Theo Leerintveld Photography M. Photography  M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy of Amsterdam city governments and Amsterdam Marketing. Cover Martins Cover  Martins Zaprauskis

COVER STORY

Sales & Circulation  Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, [email protected]

 This issue’s cover photo was taken at our favourite market, the so-called Noordermarkt, which takes place on the square of the same name in the Jordaan neighbourhood every Saturday from 09:00 - 16:00. You can buy plenty of Dutch cheese and even seafood like oysters, which can be enjoyed on the spot with a glass of Champagne. Dozens of other stalls sell anything from clothing to antiques and knick-knacks.

Copyright notice  Text  T ext and photos copyright In I n Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name I n Your Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In I n Your Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Social media Find us on Facebook, YouTube and Twitter

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Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

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 Arriving & Getting Around Around Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.

BY PLANE Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than 10km southwest of the city centre. It’s one of the busiest airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers each year, but it’s easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient. You’ll find your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear customs you’ll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essentially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre and part food court. Although located under one roof, the building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4. Just walk straight to the main hall to find most ser vices that you might need including transportation to the city. An ofinformation centre is available in terminal ficial tourist information centre storage and lockers are 2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers cost €6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins. You can also leave your bags at the storage office for the same price, but it’s only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small bank of lockers is also available on the ground floor between terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges and ATMs are plentiful so you won’t have any problems getting money. Getting to town: If town: If you’d like a taxi taxi,, then head to the far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and you’ll find a Travel Taxi office. Buses Buses   and hotel shuttles  shuttles  are available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through the arrivals hall and you’ll see the stops outside with the names of the city’s biggest hotels that operate their own shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly marked at the stop. You You can also take ta ke the blue Connexxion Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a number of large hotels along a planned route. A very long list of hotels is posted at the stand. A single ticket costs €17 and children 4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isn’t listed it’s possible that it can be arranged. City bus Nr.197 departs regularly for Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of other destinations in Amsterdam. If you’re like most people you won’t even leave the terminal and you’ll head downstairs to catch a fast train train that  that will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 20 minutes for only €4. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of train departures. If you haven’t already bought a ticket you can purchase one from one of the many ticket machines with a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and the number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, insert your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price and then wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the Central Station see ‘Arriving by train.’ You can also buy train tickets at the Train Tickets & Services office but you’ll have to pay an extra €0.50. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

BY TRAIN Amsterdam’s Central Station is a monumental building that was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achievement in its own right, it was later criticised by urban planners for having cut off the city of canals from its most essential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many of the city’s city ’s historic historic cafés were afforded an impressiv impressivee vista of ships’ masts bobbing up and down in the distance. Today, the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of a mess as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to accommodate a controversial new metro line. You’ll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands, kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex (www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 22:00) currency exchange  exchange  and an ATM are available near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and toilets that 4/5. For toilets  that cost €0.50 you have to go up to platform 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger King, Ben & Jerry’s, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas (1st Class) and a bar, Café Balkon. For tourist information  information  exit the building on the city centre side and walk across the street to the official tourist information centre. Lockers for luggage storage are located on the far east side of the station, but it might take a while to find an empty locker and even more time to figure out how to use one. You can only pay with a credit card. Place your belongings in a locker and close the door. Find the nearest keypad that corresponds with the numbered section of lockers you have chosen. Confirm that the locker number listed is the locker you have chosen and then swipe your credit card. Just stick it in the slot and pull it out. A ticket good for 24 hours will be printed. When When you want to remove your luggage just place the ticket into the slot and the door of your locker will automatically open. Getting to town: Y town:  You ou are in the very centre of town and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the city’s best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here, but if you’re staying in another section of town such as the Museum District you can take one of the many trams outside. Buy a ticket from the driver for €2.80. He will activate the card for you, but you have to place it up against one of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might be worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station and walk across the street to the GVB public transportation office (en.gvb.nl office (en.gvb.nl - open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the nor th side of the station on the River IJ.  Autumn 2015

5

 Arriving & Getting Around Around Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public transportation is excellent and we don’t recommend driving within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the preferred Dutch method of travel and some would say it’s the only way to truly experience the city.

BICYCLE RENT RENTAL AL  There are  There are many many ways to see Amst Amsterdam erdam and its surro surroundin undings gs but our favourite option is to hire a set of wheels. There are around 16 million bikes -that’s twice the number of cars. Amsterdam also has plenty of places to park your bike for free, but be sure to remember where you left it. Please note that around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually. All told, Amsterdam commuters cycle more than 2,000,000km every day!

As long as the weather cooperates try renting a boat to see the city

BOAT RENTAL

BLACK BIKES

MOKUM BOAT

A full day bike rental will set you back only €10 and it has the longest opening hours in the city.QF-9, Lijnbaansgracht 282, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31, www.black-bikes. com. Open 08:00-20:00, 08:00 -20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 09:00-1 -19:00. 9:00. TJA Although the name may not be the most original, this company’s service is outstanding. It rents and repairs bikes, steps and scooters.QA-2, Damrak 247, tel. (+31) 206 22 32 07. 07. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat S at 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00-18:00. JA

 This reliable company rents 30 elect electric-powered ric-powered boats that can seat up to eight people each. The boats are easy to navigate and no experience or special licences are required. Just leave a €100 cash deposit and you’ll be on your way. Its friendly staff can also recommend cafés where you can moor your boat for lunch or dinner.QE-8, Nassaukade 351, tel. (+31) 614 68 32 77, ino@mokumboat. com, www.mokumboat.com. Open 09:00-22:00. Also location South: Stadionkade 73, location Amstel: Schollenbrugstraat 1. TJA6L

MIKE’S BIKE RENTAL SHOP

REDERIJ DE JORDAAN

Mike’s Bikes is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing tours, but we recommend its beach cruisers with special tires that hardly ever go flat. Each E ach bike also comes with two locks, which isn’t a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike thef t is as common as dope smoke.QG-7, Kerkstraat 134, tel. (+31) 206 22 79 70, www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam. com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. (€5 - 15). 15). JA

 This company can take from two to 12 12 people on a private tour of Amsterdam’s canals that can also be fully catered with food and drink. A captain in a proper white uniform will navigate the waters of the city for you in one of two historic wooden vessels, the Farahilde (1908) and the Welmoed moe d (1932). (1932).QE-6, Egelantiersgr Egelantiersgracht acht 18-C, tel. (+31 (+31) 650 24 32 36, www.rederijdejordaan.amsterdam.

HOLLAND RENT A BIKE

RENT A BIKE Hire bikes with hand brakes or the old fashioned backpedal ones that don’t include rental company signs so you don’t look like a silly tourist. Each bike has two locks, a necessary luxury in a city of bike thieves.QA-2, Damstraat 20 - 22, tel. (+31) 206 25 50 29, www.bikes.nl. Open 09:00-18:00. Prices: rom 3 hours or €6.50 to a ull day or €9.50. TJA

BUSES City buses are primarily used to reach outlying suburbs or as a final option once the trams have stopped running. Night buses operate from midnight until 07:00 with routes connecting Central Station, Rembrandtplein and Leidseplein.

CAR RENTAL AVIS Cars are divided in small, medium and large categories and are available from f rom €40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpassage 5), tel. (+31) 206 55 60 50, www.avis.nl. Open 06:30-23:30. Also at E-8, Nassaukade 380. A

EUROPCAR Cars from €40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpassage 10), tel. (+31) 203 16 41 90, www.europcar.com. Open 06:30-23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00-23:00. A

HERTZ You’ll You ’ll find all kinds of characters in Amsterdam



Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Hertz offers short- and long-term rental of cars and vans. QS-4, Overtoom 333, tel. (+31) 206 12 24 41, www. hertz.nl. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

 Arriving & Getting Around Around FERRIES

PETROL PETR OL ST STA ATION TIONS S

Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord on the other side of the River IJ. There are six ferry lines all of which are free.

TEXACO

AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL Passenger Terminal Amsterdam hosts more than 250,000 people every year. The striking architectural monument is within walking distance of the Central Station and only 25km from the North Sea. The cosy hallway offers food venues, a kids’ corner and a luggage room with instructions in six languages.QH-4, Piet Heinkade 27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00, www.ptamsterdam.com. TJAL

METRO  The metro is fast and efficient. It’s a combination combination of under(sneltram).. ground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram) Only some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and the Amstel are actually located underground. The four metro lines all depart from Central Station and head out to their final destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas and Isolatorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the future, hence all of the construction around town.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdam’s public transportation company and it provides integrated metro, tram and bus service throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Since 2010 a comprehensive OV-chipcard ticket system allows you to travel on the metro, trams, buses and even trains using just one card. There are a variety of OV-chipcard options and you can upload them with travel credits at special machines located at stations and even in most supermarkets. You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24 (€7.50), 48 (€12), 72 (€16.50), 96 (€21), 120 (€26), 144 (€29.50) and 168 (€32) hours, which afford you unlimited travel on all trams, buses, metros and night buses and an economical way to explore the city. A one-hour OV card can card  can be purchased onboard from GVB drivers and conductors, but a premium is charged for this ticket. It costs €2.80 for €2.80 for one hour of unlimited travel on different buses and trains in the city that begins once you board your selected mode of transportation and check in by placing it next to the t he scanners near the doors. You You must also scan your card when leaving the vehicle. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

QD-7, Marnixstraat 250. Open 24hrs. Also at Sarphatis-

traat 225. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A

TAXIS CONNEXXION Connexxion has fixed prices from Schiphol Airport to Amsterdam from €32 € 32 - 42. You You can also book a shared taxi ride r ide on a minibus to one of 110 selected hotels in Amsterdam for €15.50.QCateringweg 12, Schiphol, tel. (+31) 883 39 47 41, www.schipholhotelshuttle.nl. Open 06:00-21:00.

TCA TAXI  This 24-hour 24- hour taxi company has stands at the Central Station, Leidseplein, Stopera City Hall, Westermarkt, Frederiksplein and Haarlemmerplein, but you can also call them and order a cab any time of the day or night.Qtel. (+31) 207 77 77 77, 77, www.tcataxi.nl. ww w.tcataxi.nl. Open Ope n 24hrs.

TRAINS  Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option optio n for getting around and there are three types of trains available. The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which is ideal when travelling abroad, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity offers fast connections between Dutch cities. You can easily find all train departures as well as ticket price information at www.ns.nl. The yellow timetables in the station show departure times and platform numbers. The route is shown at the top of each board.

TRAMS Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They provide the best way of getting around the city and run from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldn’t have to wait longer than 10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram drivers. They cost €2.80, but if you plan on travelling a lot you’re better off purchasing a 24-hour ticket for €7.50. You have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when entering and exiting the vehicle.

Finding a place to park your bike can be a chore

 Autumn 2015

7

 Amsterdam  Amsterd am Basics Read on and find out why the Dutch allow people to smoke  joints, but not to to operate a bicycle while while intoxicated. intoxicated. Plenty of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available here.

 ALCOHOL Amsterdam is famous for its cafés and restaurants so you’ you’re re never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken, Amstel and Bavaria are the nation’s biggest brewers but other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on offer at most bars, but keep an eye out for cafés selling beer from Amsterdam’s own microbreweries ‘t IJ and De Prael. No trip to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that specialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as  jenever.. You  jenever You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young you’ll be carded, so always bring identification.

LANGUAGE Dutch is an Indo-European Germanic language that is mostly spoken in the Netherlands, Flanders and Suriname (South America). It is closely connected to the Low German dialects which by now have largely been flooded by official German. These dialects managed to keep a number of proto-Germanic characteristics and for this reason Dutch as a language is a living fossil. It represents a group of important dialects that were spoken by the founders of the Frankish Empire and the Saxons. The latter group were the founders of the English language as it is spoken today, hence Anglo-Saxons. Afrikaans, as it is spoken in South Africa, is descended from the 17th-century version of modern Dutch. Most Dutch have a more than fairly healthy command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Mastering the Dutch language can be a terrifying ordeal, but learning a few key phrases will make things easier and might even win you a few friends and admirers.

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS On public holidays shops and museums often close earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools, city councils, post offices and banks are closed and some shops and restaurants may also take the day off.  Those still open open will have have abbreviated opening opening hours. January 1 March 25, 2016 March 27, 2016 March 28, 2016 April 27 May 1 May 4

New Year’s Day (Nieuwj (Nieuwjaarsdag aarsdag)) Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag) Easter Sunday (Pasen) Easter Monday (Pasen) King’s Day (Koningsdag) Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid) Remembrance of the Dead (Nationale Herdenking) May 5 Liberation Day (Bevrijdingsdag) May 10 Mother’s Day (Moederdag) May 5, 2015 Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag) May 15 - 16, 2016 Whitsun (Pinksteren (Pinksteren)) June 21 Father’s Fath er’s Day (Vaderdag) December 5 St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas) December 25 - 26 Christmas (Kerstmis) December 31 New Year’s Eve (Oudejaa (Oudejaarsdag) rsdag)

LOCAL TIME From 28 March to 31 October, the Netherlands is in the Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. During the rest of the year the clock ticks according to the Central European Time Zone, or GMT+1.

PHONES All In Your Pocket  guides   guides list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but of course, you only have to use this if you’re dialling from abroad. If you’re you’re already in the Netherlands and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number number..

MONEY

 Talkk about your basics...  Tal basics... This is a urinal



Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

 The Netherlands adopted the euro as its currency in 2002. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collection of €200 and €500 bills in your wallet might make you feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that they’re almost never accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. Carry some cash with you as some bars only accept cash and others require a minimum purchase of €15 - 20 to use a card. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

 Amsterdam Basics Basics POST

CITY CENTRE TOUR

POST NL You can buy stamps at most newsstands newsst ands and drop off your postcards in the orange boxes around town in the overige slot or go straight to these centrally located post offices. QF-5, Singel 250, www.postnl.nl. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:00. 17:00. Closed Sun. A

PROSTITUTION It may surprise you to know that the profession that has helped to make Amsterdam a household word across the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the Dutch did what they always do when confronted with a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind eye to the practice and tolerated it. Today, window shopping on the Oudezijds Achterburgwal Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction, but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo. Be respectful and, whatever you do, don’t take any photographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if you want some photographic evidence of your visit to Europe’s erotic pleasure capital. For more information see Nightlife.

ROADS For a country as small as the Netherlands, there are a ridiculously high number of asphalt roads and motorways. Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars traffic quite frequently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The majority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and considering the severity of traffic fines, this seems wise enough. If you exceed the maximum speed by 50km/h you’ll lose your drivdr iving licence and be fined. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the right side of the road, and you’re not allowed to cycle on motorways! You’ve no idea how many tourists are plucked off the road by police each year.

SMOKING Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Netherlands, but since the introduction introduction of the smoking smoking ban on July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This is partially because the government started a huge campaign to make people aware of the effects of smoking on their health. These days you can have a wild night out and come home without your hair and clothes reeking of cigarette smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit and others (read: smokers) find it a pain and banish themselves to the many smoker’s rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear rules you may suddenly find yourself in a smoke-filled pub.  This is usually in bars with just a single staff member: the boss. Or you may find yourself in a pub that flouts the ban on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you. If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates this, then the manager will receive a fine upon inspection. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

Most people arrive at Amsterdam’s Central Station so Station so that’s as good a place to start as any other. Walk down the touristy Damrak , which is lined with bars, souvenir shops and fast food joints. If you’d you’d like to start star t your day in true Dutch fashion then grab a deep-fried frikandel and frites at Manneken Pis or Pis or just keep walking down the street. Just ahead is Dam Square home Square home to street performers as well as the National Monument, Monument, a 22mhigh pillar that looks like a white phallus. On the opposite end of the square you’ll find Royal Palace Amsterdam whose interior is so opulent you’ll think you’ve been transported to Versailles. Versailles. Next walk down the Kalverstraat Kalverstraat,, which is a pedestrian shopping street where you can find major fashion brands as well as cafés and fast food shops. Head down the street until you see the Spui Square on Square on your right. It’s full of cafés as well as one of Amsterdam’s premiere English-language bookshops, The American Book Center.. For affordable Dutch food you can’t beat ‘t Center Lieverdje just Lieverdje  just around the corner on the Singel. We always order the uitsmijter or the pea soup. If you’re looking for the ultimate Amsterdam bruin café experience then have a drink and a soup and sandwich at Caé Hoppe on Hoppe  on the Spui, which has been around since 1670. Continue your walk down the Singel until you reach the famous Flower Market where Market where you can buy seeds, bulbs and lots of souvenirs. Pass the Mint Tow Tower er (Munttoren)  (Munttoren) and walk down Reguliersbreestraat Reguliersbreestraat,, a popular gayfriendly street flanked by loads of restaurants, until you reach Rembrandtplein Rembrandtplein.. Walk across the bridge over the Amstel to Waterlooplein Waterlooplein where  where you’ll find many of Amsterdam’s Jewish sights, sights , including the Portuguese Synagogue. The Rembrandthuis Museum  Museum  is just around the corner to the left on Jodenbreestraat. If you walk across another bridge you’ll reach Sint Antoniesbreestraat, which leads to the Nieuwmarkt Nieuwmarkt,, home to fashionable cafés and bars as well as Den Waag, Amsterdam’s most impressive medieval gate. From here you can explore Amsterda Amsterdam’ m’s Chinatown on the Zeedijk . Wing Kee and Kee and the stylish New King are King are both good choices for dinner. If you go left from the Zeedijk you’ll run across Oudezijds Achterburgwal and Oudezijds Voorburgwal, the main canal streets of the Red Light district. district. The bars, coffeeshops and prostitutes behind their windows are the main attractions att ractions here, but if it’s still not too late you can also visit the Oude Kerk , the city’s oldest church. The Hash, Marijuana & Hemp Museum,, however, is open every day until 23:00. If you Museum walk down the Zeedijk   toward the train station you’ll also come across what could be the world’s oldest gay and lesbian bar, Caé ‘t Mandje. Mandje. Taste a traditional Dutch liqueur  liqueur  or spirit like jenever at De Ooievaar or In de Olospoort (closed Olospoort (closed Tuesdays) near the end of the Zeedijk are both good choices. For excellent microbrews microbrews visit Proeflokaal de Prael on Prael on Oudezijds Armsteeg.  Autumn 2015

9

Restaurants If there’s an exotic cuisine that you can’t do without, there’s a good chance that you’ll find it in Amsterdam. In addition to excellent Asian restaurants in Chinatown, there are plenty of establishments specialising in Dutch and international food, but don’t pass up an opportunity to try delicious dishes from Holland’ss former colonies - namely Indonesia and Suriname. Holland’ Foodies can also dine at restaurants with Michelin stars and late night clubbers will have no trouble finding a kebab, burger or fries in the middle of the night. Prices in parentheses indicate the average cost of a main course.

 AFRICAN

SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditionin conditioning g O Casino

T Child-friendly

U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outside seating

X Smoking section

S Takeaway

W  W  Wifi ifi

FENAN KLEIN AFRIKA Klein, or small, could refer to the actual restaurant, which is undoubtedly on the tiny side, but it could also refer to the menu which shows a small glimpse of an entire continent’s culinary traditions, especially those of East Africa. Order an Ethiopian St George beer while you ponder the choices in front of you before inevitably asking the friendly wait staff to recommend something authentic and tasty. We ended up getting the most bang for our euro by trying the bebeayenetu,, which is a combination of different dishes served on enetu a giant pancake of sorts. The atmosphere inside was vibrant, hot and humid, not unlike the stereotypical vision of subSaharan Africa.QD-10, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 147, tel. (+31) 204 12 44 42. Open 17:00-23:00.

BAGELS BAGELS & BEANS We’re not exactly sure where wher e the beans fit into the equation, but if you like plain, whole wheat, tomato, everything, cinnamon and even gluten-free (whatever that means) bagels with a wide variety of toppings from hummus, tuna salad or Parma ham to traditional cream cheese, then head over to this popular chain of bagel bistros. You can also drink freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices, although, although, try as we might, we can’t seem to find the appeal of cucumber  juice. Free Free wi-fi is part of the experience e xperience at this large large outlet of this popular chain of bagel bistros.QA-2, Waterlooplein 2, www.bagelsbeans.nl. Open 08:30-17:30, Sun 11:0017:30. Also at A-2, Raadhuisstraat 18, tel. (+31) 206 38 07 88; F-8, Keizersgracht 504, tel.(+31) 203 30 55 08; and many other locations. (€5). ASW

BAKERIES KWEKKEBOOM Know this posh bakery and sweets shop by the beautiful stained glass above its entrance. Inside you can relax with a delicious waffle, a slice of cake or maybe some bonbons made by a company that has been in operation oper ation since 1900. Naturally you can also order a hot drinks or just take away some chocolates for later.QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat 36, tel. (+31) 204 35 30 30, www.kwekkeboom.net. Open 09:00-17:45, Sat 09:00-17:30, Sun 12:00-18:00. Also at H-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 119, tel. (+31) 206 73 71 14; K-6, Linnaeusstraat Linnae usstraat 80, tel. (+31 (+31) 206 65 04 0 4 43; and other locations. S

BARBECUE CAFÉ DE KLOS Although this place looks like an authentic Dutch brown bar with solid wood furniture, wood panelling and imitation Dutch master paintings collecting dust on their chunky frames, the staff assured us that it’s actually a restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of all kinds. Order huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken, sirloins, t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to make a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is also on draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde Suster, which is owned by the same people.QF-7, Kerkstraat 41 43, tel. (+31 (+31)) 206 25 37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. ww w.beiaardgroep.eu. Open 16:00-23:30. (€12 - 22).

TONY’S NY CITY BAGELS Not far from the Rembrandt House, this self-proclaimed New York bagel shop offers a variety of bagels with even more toppings from traditional cream cheese to guacamole. Order a cold sandwich or tuna melts and BLT bagels or you can try brownies, cookies and delicious carrot cake. If you’d rather eat at home take a bunch with you for €0.90/bagel or €8.50 for 10. Naturally, coffee, tea and  juice are also available in this bright yellow bistro with high ceilings and views of the street. Order and pay at the counter.QH-5, Jodenbreestraat 15, tel. (+31) 204 21 59 30, www.tonysnycitybagels.nl. Open 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:30-18:00, Sun 09:30-1 09:30 -18:00. 8:00. (€2 - 5). 10 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Women know that breakfast is the most impor tant meal of the day

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Restaurants

BRAZILIAN RODIZIO  The Zeedijk is the gateway to heaven for carnivores and at Rodizio you can eat unlimited amounts of meat - and even salad if you’re in an odd mood. This Brazilian restaurant specialises in all-you-can-eat menus and its waiters serve large kebab skewers which have been cooked slowly in charcoal ovens. Naturally the cheaper meat is served first, which means you won’t have as much room for the more refined cuts of flesh. Despite this ruse, a trip to Rodizio is money well spent.QB-1, Zeedijk 28, tel. (+31) 639 34 44 14. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (€18 - 21). J

BURGERS

THE BUTCHER De Pijp is one of Amsterdam’s most bohemian neighbourhoods. It’s home to the amazing Albert Cuyp Market and, since 2012, one of the best burgers in town. The Butcher cooks all of its Aberdeen Angus beef burgers to order in the open-plan kitchen for just under €10, but if you’re not in the mood for something that once mooed, you can order lamb, chicken and veggie burgers as well as the ‘codfather’. We personally prefer the Benedict burger, which is the perfect way to start the day. You can also add extras like blue cheese, jalapenos, bacon and a number of sauces in this trendy space designed by an award-winning architectural firm.QH-10, Albert Cuypstraat 129, tel. (+31) 204 70 78 75, www.the-butcher.com. Open 11:0001:00, 01 :00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 12:00-01:00, -01:00, Also at: Bellamyplein Be llamyplein 51 (West). JAKS

BURGERMEESTER  The walls of this tiny hamburge hamburgerr joint are decorated with photographs of grazing cows. We guess they’re there to remind visitors that the excellent organic beef on your plate was once a happy herbivore living on an eco-friendly farm. Burgermeester specialises in simple, yet surprisingly creative hamburgers made from environmentally sustainable, organic ingredients. In addition to the photos of cows, the restaurant is neatly designed with an open-plan kitchen and red, American-style diner sofas. Burgermeester is conveniently located in the heart of the Plantage, but it also has other locations around Amsterdam.QI-6, Plantage Kerklaan 37, tel. (+31) 206 38 38 86, www.burgermeester.eu. Open 12:00-23:00. (€8 - 10). GKS facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

CAFETERIAS DE BIJENKORF KITCHEN Pass some of the world’s biggest brands like Vuitton and Gucci on your way to the top floor of this posh department store to reach De Bijenkorf Kitchen – an upmarket cafeter ia that offers a stylish, modern interior and views of Amsterdam. The Asian stand cooks stir fries to order, the seafood stand boasts oysters and sushi, you can order pizzas and pasta at the Italian counter and steaks at the grill. QA-2, Dam 1, tel. 900 09 19 (toll call), www.debijenkor.nl. Open 10:00-1 10:00 -19:00, 9:00, Mon, Sun 11:00-1 11:00-19:00, 9:00, Thu, Fri 10:0021:00. (€5 - 12). AB  Autumn 2015

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Restaurants CHINESE

DINERS

NAM KEE

STUDIO 2

In our estimation the best Chinese places have crispy duck and pork hanging in their shop front windows and this popular place located opposite the FGS He Hua Temple in Chinatown certainly fits the bill. Order exotic dishes with prawns or maybe some eel or just skip the culinary shenanigans and stick with the aforementioned food hanging in the window which is delicious and costs only half of what you would spend on the seafood dishes. The maitre d’ loves to sing to both the patrons and himself and is often caught in the act of singing to no one in particular.QB-1, Zeedijk 111 - 113, tel. (+31) 206 24 34 70, www.namkee.net. Open 12:00-23:00. Also at Geldersekade 117, tel. (+31) 206 39 28 46. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:30 - 24:00; Marie Heinekenplein 4, tel. (+31) 206 70 23 36. (€10 - 18).

 This cosy little café offers great views of the bustling Flower Market outside, not to mention excellent traditional Dutch dishes like green pea soup, omelettes, pancakes, apple pie and, like most places, an English breakfast for tourists. The food is incredibly cheap by city centre standards, but if you’re not hungry it ’s also a good place to take a break from shopping and sightseeing with a coffee or a beer.QA-3, Singel 504, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 36. Open 09:30-17:30. (€5 - 8). A

NEW KING We were a little apprehensive when we encountered New King, because unlike so many other restaurants in Chinatown, this one actually looks stylish with light coloured wood panelling, red banners of Asian comic book characters eating food and dark brown wallpaper that looks like snakeskin. Thankfully, this wasn’t a case of interior design prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and Indonesian cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingly reasonable, too! Order whole fish, steaming bowls of seafood, crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic dishes like frog legs. Cocktails and a decent wine list are also available.QB-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25 21 80, www.newking.nl. w ww.newking.nl. Open 11:30-2 1:30-24:00. 4:00. (€1 (€12 2 - 18 18). ). A

COFFEE & TEA  DE KOFFIE SALON Look for the stained glass door and windows in shades of blue to find this lively café serving great coffee and tea as well as incredible cakes, pastries and croissants. Black and white photos of famous people slurping Java cover the far wall and seating is also available outside. The staff are up at the crack of dawn and still manage to serve you with a genuine smile, which is no mean feat in our book.QE-9, Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat 82, tel. (+31) 206 12 40 79, www.dekoffiesalon.nl. Open 07:00-19:00. ABW

TEDDY’S CORNER  This no frills diner and bar serves up anything from salads and burgers to steaks and lamb chops, but we get the feeling that most people pop in for a big breakfast with coffee or tea regardless of the time of day. Although it also offers beer and cocktails, it’s more of a place to recharge your batteries and to line your stomach before returning to other Red Light bars and coffeeshops on this infamous street.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 45, tel. (+31) 204 23 21 67, teddyscorner.nl. teddyscorne r.nl. (€7 - 15). A

DUTCH ‘T LIEVERDJE  This unpre unpretentiou tentiouss café and bar name named d af after ter a famo famous us statue of a small boy located around the corner serves up classic homemade Dutch dishes like stamppot , haring and apple pie as well as Indonesian-style fried rice for affordable prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers and the locally made De Prael brew are also at your disposal but bear in mind that the resident cat might choose to sit in your lap if you’re male. Apparently, it doesn’t like women or so the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior with large brass candelabras and even an antique chandelier guarantee a cosy stay here, but remember that during peek eating times you’ll have to sit at the bar if you only want a drink. Tables are reser ved for hungry patrons. On Fridays happy hour begins at 20:00.QA-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 625 58 11 56, www. tlieverdje.nl. Open 11:00-21:00. (€6 - 12). B

ESPRESSOFABRIEK  Located right next to a popular park where children play football and parents picnic, the technologically advanced (and expensive) coffee machines at the Espressofabriek are manned by professional baristas who obviously take pride in their work. They even offer seminars to anyone curious to know how to pour the perfect espresso. This isn’t the place to go for a quick cup of Joe, but rather an establishment for true connoisseurs. Although it has only limited seating inside, a huge terrace is available when the weather permits.QC-4, Gosschalklaan 7 (Westergasabriek), tel. (+31) 204 86 21 06, www.espressoabriek.nl. Open 09:30-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. B 12 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Queue up for traditional frites

amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants ETHIOPIAN IBSSA Although you may feel a little uneasy about dining at a restaurant serving cuisine from a country where millions of people are starving star ving as a result of a drought, we recommend you put aside your squeamishness and visit this simple Ethiopian restaurant, which looks and feels like somebody’s living room.  The décor décor may not be Ibssa Ibssa’s ’s bigg biggest est attraction attraction,, but but the the food food most certainly is and despite its simple menu you won’t go home hungry. It’s also one of the few places in town where it’s impolite not to eat with your hands!QO-2, Blasiusstraat 62, tel. (+31) 206 63 39 63, www.restaurantibssa.nl. Open 17:00-22:00. (€9 - 15). TL

FAST FOOD F OOD MANNEKEN PIS Named after the Belgian capital’s favourite little urinating rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-fried potatoes in three sizes for €2.50, €3.50 and €4.50 and one of 16 sauces is included in the price from traditional mayonnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian peanut satay condiment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel   and kroket   can also be had.QA-1, Damrak 41, www.mannekenpis.nl. Open 11:00 11:00-23 -23:00, :00, Fri, Sat 11:00 11:00-02:00. -02:00. (€3 - 5). S

FONDUE HET KARBEEL  This place seems to be one of the few origi original nal rest restauaurants on a street lousy with Argentine steakhouses and Chinese eateries. The atmosphere is refined, yet casual and its interior is a combination of brick and wood with high timber ceilings and plenty of light, natural and otherwise. You can order pastas, salmon and steaks, but its true speciality is cheese fondue. Choose from a variety of different cheeses from local Gouda to Belgian Trappist fromage in fromage  in which to dunk your bread and order one its fine wines to compliment the meal.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 16, tel. (+31) 206 27 49 95, www.hetkarbeel.nl. Open 09:00-23:00. 09: 00-23:00. (€15 - 20). A

FRENCH ZUID ZEELAND Courteous or brusque service could make or break your dining experience. The professional staff at this traditional French restaurant still serve in an old-fashioned and heart-warming way that adds to the relaxed ambiance of this elegant establishment. But make sure you bring your platinum card, because a meal in this monumental building won’t come cheap. It is however the prefect place for a romantic evening with your significant other and you can linger at your table for as long as you like without being hustled out the door.QF-7, Herengracht 413, tel. (+31) 206 24 31 54. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:00. (€25 27). JAGKX facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

MOVEMBER If you happen to be in the Netherlands during the month of November you may notice an unusually large number of men sporting moustaches of various lengths and styles. It’s not that Dutch men want to emulate their favourite 1970s porn stars or that Amsterdam has more hipsters than other European cities, rather they’re showing their support for men’s health issues such as prostate cancer. Men start out clean shaven on the first of the month and grow out their moustaches until the end of ‘Movember’ to raise money and awareness. The international movement has raised over €400 million worldwide and grown over 4 million moustaches. The local social campaign will include a number of special events in Amsterdam as well as a gala party with live music, drinks and good company. For more information visit nl.movember.com/en.

GREEK DE 2 GRIEKEN  This Greek restaurant is perhaps symbolic of its homeland.  The maps of Greece Gre ece on the wall are wrinkled wr inkled and yellowing and the whole place exudes an atmosphere of faded glory, yet the two Greeks who run the place are still passionate about their work. You won’t find haute cuisine here, but if you’re in the mood for solid peasant fare like moussaka, souvlaki and some fried squid accompanied by a house wine or some ouzo, then you won’t be disappointed. If you’re not sure what to order, you can’t go wrong with the mixed grill, which comes with four kinds of meat, rice, potatoes, ‘giant’ beans, slaw and fresh tzatzik i for about €15. A small garden terrace is also available in the summer.QE-4, Prinsenstraat 20, tel. (+31) 206 25 53 17. Open 17:00-23:00. (€15). AB

INDIAN KAMASUTRA Although most people are too distracted by the coffeshops, sex shops and bars in the Red Light District to notice this Indian restaurant located on a small side street, this appropriately named place, given its location, is well worth a visit for anyone craving a curry or a vindaloo. Inside Bollywood movies provide the soundtrack for your dining experience while rajas, gods and goddesses feast, carouse and flirt in murals on three floors of Kamasutra. Order a Kingfisher or Cobra beer and take your pick of delicious Indian cuisine, which is prepared by Indian chefs. If you don’t believe us  just take the stairs to the cellar downstairs and you’ll see them toiling away in the kitchen.QB-1, Lange Niezel 9, tel. (+31) 206 26 00 03, www.restaurantkamasutra.nl. Open 12:00-24:00. (€15 - 20). AV  Autumn 2015

13

Restaurants INDONESIAN KANTJIL & DE TIJGER Stylish, yet casual, Kantijl & de Tiger is a good option if you’re in the mood for tasty Indonesian cuisine from local favourites like a variety of rijsttafels and nasi goring to delicious desserts such as the green Javanese pancake with coconut and palm sugar syrup. The exotic smells of the sauces and seasonings are the first thing one notices upon entering as meals are prepared in an open-plan kitchen to the left. Although the place does include some traditional design features like a tiger, palm trees and bambo o, the interior is generally a more modern affair. QA-3, Spuistraat 291 - 293, tel. (+31) (+31) 206 20 09 94, www.kantjil. www.kantjil.nl. nl. Open Ope n 16:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 12 12:00 :00-23:00. -23:00. (€10 (€10 - 25). AB

DE PONTENEUR Unlike many restaurants in the Dutch capital, this one has an abundance of space and incredibly high ceilings confounding the notion that Amsterdam cafés have to be claustrophobic. A large reading table is available as well plenty of toys and games for the kids and live music is played every second Sunday of the month. Affordable daily specials are listed on the blackboard above ab ove the openplan kitchen and a great selection of beer is also available. QK-6, Eerste van Swindenstraat 581, tel. (+31) 206 68 06 80, www.ponteneur.nl. Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-02:00, 09:00 -02:00, Sun 10:0010:00-01 01:00. :00. (€12 - 15). 15). ABW

IRANIAN DAAR BAAND

INTERNATIONAL BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN Opened as a public bathhouse bathho use in 1942, today its hip design attracts fans of good style as well as good food and drink and its patrons can enjoy lunch and dinner not to mention tasty cocktails and uncommon beers like Texels and Jopen. The seats by the fireplace are highly coveted in the winter, while the purple tables and chairs sandwiched between ivy-covered columns on the terrace are always full on sunny days. The food ranges from salads and its signature Aberdeen Angus burger to rib-eye steaks and rabbit stew. A kids menu is also available.QP-2, Javaplein 21, tel. (+31) 206 65 12 26, www.badhuis-javaplein.nl. Open 10:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00. (€6 - 17). IBW

 This wonderful wonderful Iranian restaurant is absolutely absolutely littered with Persian nick-nacks. Paintings of long-gone noblemen (and -women) and scenes from ancient Persepolis cover the walls while authentic music sets the tone for an evening you won’t forget. Try delicious lamb kebabs, a host of vegetarian mahiche (lamb dishes or do as we did and order the mahiche  (lamb stew with baked apricots, spicy potatoes and mixed vegetables). We also cracked a smile when we noticed that cognac and calvados were listed under desserts on the menu. You can shisha for also smoke a shisha  for only €8!QD-10, Overtoom 350, tel. (+31) 206 18 54 81, www.irandaarbaand.nl. Open 17:0024:00. (€14 - 18). ABX

ITALIAN DE ITALIAAN

CAFÉ PROUST Popular with local 20- and 30-somethings, this stylish café is decorated with blackboard art (you’ll see what we mean when you get there) and two long mirrors on opposite walls that create an odd optical illusion, but its most striking feature is the huge lamp hanging above the bar that looks like a revolver. You can order a good cocktail or a tasty brew, but the menu is also worth a look and offers such interesting dishes as lamb burgers with harissa s auce. QE-4, Noordermarkt 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 45, www. goodoodgroup.nl/proust.html. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 09:00 0 9:00 - 24:00. (€10 - 18). 18). B

Our only complaint about De Italiaan would have to be that it’s so popular and crammed with people in the evening that a reservation is often necessary. But this is of course a testament to its authentic cuisine and atmosphere. Most of the ingredients used in its open plan kitchen are imported from organic farms in Italy and all of its Italian wines can be enjoyed by the glass, carafe or bottle within its two-storey red interior or out on the summer terrace. A huge number of pizzas are prepared in a wood-fired oven.QE-9, Bosboom Toussaintstraat 29, tel. (+31) 206 83 68 54, www.deitaliaan.com. Open 17:3022:00. (€10 - 20). AB

FRENZI CUCINA

Locals don’t let the cold get in the way of alfresco dining

14 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Part deli, part wine shop and part trattoria, this stylish restaurant serves delicious Italian-inspired cuisine, much of which can be viewed behind the glass counter as one enters Frenzi Cucina. Black pillows and cushions cover rough ly hewn wooden benches that are placed upon a floor of colourful mismatched tiles. You can order full meals like lasagne and risotto, risot to, salads and panini or just crawl into the window niche with a hot chocolate, some tiramisu and a good book. Organic prosecco is also available, not to mention Vedett and La Chouffe beers in bottles, and the owners regularly offer cooking workshops and wine tastings.QS-4, Overtoo Overtoom m 459, tel. (+31 (+31)) 204 12 38 66, www. w ww. renzi.nl. Open 12 12:00 :00-2 -21:30. 1:30. (€6 - 15). AS amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants JAMAICAN

MEXICAN

PLANET ROSE

LOS PILONES

If you go with your first instinct and stay outside, you’ll miss one of Amsterdam’s culinary secrets. Unfortunately the cheap chairs and tacky advert s make Planet Rose seem more like a snack bar than a Jamaican restaurant where the food is exceptional. Once inside it seems more like you’re in the canteen of some obscure football team than in a real restaurant, but if you can ignore appearances, appear ances, chef Mama-Rose will take you on a culinary journey through our planet’s most relaxed island nation. Each dish on the menu comes with a personal story on its background and all taste delicious, especially the tender goat curry,  jerked chicken and ackee and saltfish.QD-9, Nicolaas Beetsstraat Beetss traat 47, 47, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 12 98 38, www.planetr www.planetrose. ose. ino. Open Op en 14:00-22:00. (€1 (€15). 5). NGBKXS

Although quite colourful, and definitely not lacking in the décor department, Los Pilones chose to forgo the usual embellishments of sombreros and cacti in favour of Mexican wrestling memorabilia including a giant mural of one of the sport’s icons. The menu is limited to tortillas, soft shell tacos and enchiladas, but the food is good and the salsa that comes with the gratis chips is surprisingly spicy. Naturally, you can order one of its 185 tequilas. Get here early or you’ll be stuck on the wrong side of the border.QD-5, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 20 03 23, www.lospilones.com. Open 16:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. Also at F-8, Kerkstraat 63, tel. (+31) 203 20 46 51. (€20 - 25). JAG

JAPANESE YAMAZATO  The best time to visit the only Japanese restaurant in Europe with a Michelin star is in the spring when the cherry blossoms in its private garden are in bloom. But even if you dine here in the dead of winter you won’t be disappointed with the classic Sukiya-style interior, the staff in authentic kimono or the traditional Kaiseki cuisine. When the restaurant first opened in the 1970s it flew local fish suppliers to Japan to show them how seafood was supposed to be presented for consumption, which means that the fish they now serve is up to Japanese standards and the more exotic additions to the menu are flown in from Japan. You can also order a traditional breakfas t if you reserve it in advance.QFerdinand Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura), tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 78 74 50, www.yamazato.nl. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:30. (€40 - 80). PA

LUNCHROOM DE BAKKERSWINKEL  This long, narrow nar row industrial-looking industrial -looking space with pipes pip es and wires hanging from the ceiling provides a bright, refined atmosphere illuminated by a number of skylights. You can expect classical music, a fresh flower on each table and gourmet sweets, breakfasts, lunch and a whole menu dedicated to high tea. Meals are prepared behind a long counter to the right side that’s covered in delicious pies and cakes. The Baker’s Shop is by no means cheap, but style and taste don’t come for free. Two small tables are also available out on the street when the weather cooperates.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 69, tel. (+31) 204 89 80 00, www.debakkerswinkel.nl. Open 08:00-17:30, Mon 10:00-17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. Also at C-3, Polonceaukade 1-2 (Westergasabriek), tel. (+31) 206 88 06 32. Open 09:00 09:0 0 - 17:00, 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AB

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THE MEXICAN Several questions come to mind when eating at The Mexican. Why is there a dinner table underneath the open staircase? Why does the meat in a chicken wrap look and taste like tuna? And why is The Mexican’s cook from Nepal? The restaurant looks like a typical tourist trap with kitschy decorations, overpriced food and too many tables. QA-2, Damstraat 36, tel. (+31) 204 21 82 98, www.themexican.nl. Open 12:00-01:00, Fri 12:00-03:00. (€12 15). PTJAGK

MOROCCAN BAZAR Located in a huge space that was once a church in the middle of Amsterdam’s most famous street market, Bazar offers a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle Eastern and North African dishes too numerous to mention here. Suffice it to say, that you can get anything from kebabs, falafel and hummus to exotic seafood and lots of cuisine with tangy harissa sauce. Dine under enormous Moroccan-style lamps on the second floor balcony or below multicoloured flashing Christmas lights on the ground floor. The food is refreshref reshingly affordable and the atmosphere is friendly and casual. Despite the Islamic décor, plenty of beer, wine and spirits can be ordered at the central bar.QH-8, Albert Cuypstraa Cuypstraatt 182, tel. (+31) 206 75 05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.com. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-01:00, Sat 09:00-01:00, Sun 09:00-2 09:00 -24:00. 4:00. (€6 - 12 12).). A

Courageous eaters should try the local herring

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Restaurants NORTH AFRICAN

PIZZA 

RAÏNARAÏ 

DE PIZZABAKKERS

It’s no mirage. The lonely brick building at the far end of the Westergasfabriek is a cosy oasis from the otherwise bland surroundings of empty space on one side and boring residential housing blocks across the street. Let the aroma of North African spices emanating from the openplan kitchen lure you inside for a culinary experience you won’t soon forget. Although you can try traditional tagines as ines  as main courses, you might get a broader introduction to this exotic cuisine by ordering the chef’s special mezze menu that includes five different dishes.QC-4, Polonceaukade 40 (Westergasabriek), tel. (+31) 204 86 71 09, www.rainarai.nl. Open 12:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. Closed Mon. (€20). B

 This trendy pizzeria piz zeria has lots of wooden wood en shelves and counters painted a flat grey and a solitary crystal chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Part of the ground floor also serves as a storage area for the heaps of firewood that fuels the oven. Roughly a dozen thin-crust pizzas are served here including vegetarian options and you can sip a cappuccino, prosseco or Peroni beer while you wait for your food. De Pizzabakkers only accept credit or bank cards so put that cash back in your wallet.QI-6, Plantage Kerklaan 2, tel. (+31) 206 25 07 40, www.depizzabakkers. nl. Open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. Also at Overtoom 501, tel. (+31 (+31) 206 18 65 54; D- 4, Haarlemmerdijk Haarle mmerdijk 128 tel. (+31) 204 27 41 44 . (€9 - 14).

PANCAKES

QUICK EATS

DE SPIEGEL

FEBO

Within spitting distance of the Rijksmuseum, this cosy family-style family-st yle restaurant and café has been serv serving ing pancakes and other international food since 1907. Take a seat under the hanging wooden shoes, lanterns, copper tea kettles and other nick-nacks clinging to the ceiling and order a big burger, a healthy salad or a hot drink. The kiebitz  The kiebitz  (hot   (hot cocoa with rum and lots of whipped cream) really hits the spot on a cold and rainy Amsterdam day.QF-8, Lijnbaansgracht 277, 277, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 26 69 04, lunchcaede lunchcaedespiegel. spiegel. nl. Open Ope n 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-16:00. (€8 - 12). 12).

 This chain chain of snack snack bars, or rather snack snack shops, shops, offers deepfried croquettes, frikandel   and burgers promptly placed into vending machines right after being made, which probably sounds strange to tourists and that’s precisely why you  just have to experience experience it. We prefer a spicy Dutch Dutch sausage frites and (frikandel ) with an order of frites  and mayo before or after a night on the town, but others swear by the satekroket .  The snack snack options options seem limitles limitlesss here so deposit deposit your coins and see what comes out. Also available at over 20 locations throughout town.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 33, tel. (+31) 206 26 03 60, www.ebodelekkerste.nl. Open 12:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-04:00. Also at Damrak 6, tel. (+31) 206 38 53 18. Open 10:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 04:00; H-1 H-10, 0, Ferdinand Bolstraat 89B, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 79 30 09. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00; G-7, Reguliersbreestraat breestr aat 38, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 23 53 04. Open 11:00 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00; and many other locations. (€1 - 3). 3). JGS

THE PANCAKE BAKERY Although this cellar pancake house feels a bit like a tourist trap, it serves scores of authentic Dutch pancakes and omelettes. In other words, a very simple, yet popular concept. Each of its marble-topped tables has a big ceramic bucket of local syrup with a wooden spoon as well as a container of powdered sugar, the walls are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia and the low timber ceilings are simply charming, but the aroma of pancakes on the griddle can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order them with bacon, onions and cheese, with ice cream and cinnamon or dozens of other toppings either sweet or savoury.  Tea, coffee, wine, beer and spirits are also available and the service is friendly.QE-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206 25 13 33, www.pancake.nl. Open 12:00-21:30. (€8 - 15).

 The Dutch have made snacking snacking much easier

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STEAKHOUSES TORO DORADO  This is not your average steakhouse. But what can you expect when the beef you’re served is treated like royalty and fed on a steady diet of beer and sake to create the perfect amount of fat and marbling? The lucky heifers also get a daily massage from a personal assistant. Unfortunately, the restaurant staff aren’t as attentive, but when the tender Kobe beef arrives you won’t care. Naturally, all of this livestock pampering doesn’t come cheap, but the meal was one of the best we’ve had in a long time and that’s saying a lot.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 22, tel. (+31) 204 21 86 95, www.torodorado.com. Open 17:00-24:00. Also at A-1, Spuistraat 3d, tel. (+31) 204 21 86 95. (€25 - 30). PTJAGBKXW

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Restaurants SURINAMESE SPANG MAKANDRA When we walked through the door of this ethnic eatery we noticed that most of the limited seating was occupied by Surinamese immigrants giving us a clear indication that we had come to right place for authentic cuisine. Ignore the cheesy illuminated ‘paintings’ on the walls of blue waters and palm trees and get stuck into a roti  (meat  (meat and sauce with a huge pancake), chow mein noodles and nasi  (baked rice).QG-10, Gerard Doustraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 70 50 81, www.spangmakandra.nl. Open 11:00-22:00, Sun 13:00-22:00. S

THAI BIRD  This Thai restaura restaurant nt was one o ne of the first firs t ethnic eateries to open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims to prepare authentic meals that are even better be tter than the stuff st uff you’d get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure, but it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve some of the best fresh green and red curries you can get in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights mixed with plastic Buddhas can’t spoil a truly satisfying meal at Bird.QB-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14 42, www. thai-bird.nl.. Open thai-bird.nl Ope n 17:00 17:00-23:00. -23:00. (€12 (€12 - 17). JAGS

ORDER AN UITSMIJTER If you’re in a café and can’t decide what to eat, just do as the locals do and order the uitsmijter  (pronounced  (pronounced outs-may-ter). This is Holland’s contribution to world comfort and breakfast food and is on the menu of nearly every café worth its salt in the Netherlands. Although presentation varies from place to place, it’s basically two or three fried eggs sunny side up served on slices of bread with ham and melted cheese. Some of the swankier establishments in town will also offer gourmet cheeses, homemade bread and roast beef or prosciutto instead of ham with a side salad, but this classic Dutch staple is essentially an open-faced egg sandwich. Although it’s usually a huge meal, it’s often one of the cheapest items on the menu, which is perhaps why it’s also so popular with frugal locals. In case you’re wondering, uitsmijter means ‘bouncer’ or someone who throws people out of clubs, because it was once considered the ideal meal to chow down on before crashing after a long night out.

TURKISH

GOLDEN BROWN BAR

GÜLLÜOGLU

 This is definitely not a brown bar, unless unle ss of course these Amsterdam institutions have changed and now include incredibly stylish interiors and serve delicious cocktails and affordable Thai cuisine. Decorative walls on two floors, giant windows for people watching and huge glass balls as lamps will give you a small hint at what to expect. The fish cakes, green curries and pad and pad thai  also  also make it worth a visit, but just in case you were really in the market for a brown bar, this trendy hotspot does offer some great brews on draught.QD-10, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 146, tel. (+31) 206 12 40 76, www.goldenbrownbar.nl. Open 17:00-01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-01 12:00- 01:00. :00. (€7 - 9). AB

All the goodies that the Turkish culinary tradition has to offer can be found at this popular Amsterdam institution. Since 1871 Güllüoğlu has used its secret family recipes to create wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anatolia’s most famous treat. The exquisite flavour of these recipes have become so beloved that Güllüoğlu has the honour of calling itself the biggest baklava baker in the world with establishments in dozens of countries including Libya. You can also enjoy other pastries, pastrie s, pies and cakes and all can be enjoyed with real Turkish coffee.QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat 7, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 203 20 42 00, www.gulluoglu. www.gulluoglu.nl. nl. Open 09:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. JKS

TIBETAN

 VEGETARIAN  VEGET ARIAN

SNOW LION

LIBRIJE ZUSJE

 The otherwise ordinary beige interior of this restaurant is punctuated by colourful images of the Buddha on one side and the Dalai Lama on the other. The waitress dressed in traditional garb had decidedly Tibetan features, which gave us our first clue that we may have come to the right place. Order classic drinks like butter tea or something with a little more kick and then move on to vegetarian or meat dishes with curry, noodles or rice or try the ‘special’ beef dish which was incredibly spicy – just the t he way we like it. But don’t worry. The staff are kind enough to ask how hot you like your food when they take your order.QE-4, Haarlemmerstraat 50, tel. (+31) 204 22 77 76. Open 16:00-22:00. (€15).

Given the fact that it only has 40 seats and that it’s currently the ultimate hot-spot for non-carnivores in the city centre, it will come as no surprise that reservations are absolutely essential at Librije Zusje. The same people who brought you the famous vegetarian restaurant with Michelin stars in Zwolle have exported the concept to the posh premises of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel. It offers views of the biggest courtyard garden in the city and the special chef’s vegetarian menu is menu is a mix of seemingly unrecognisable substances that come together like a symphony in your mouth.QG-7, Herengracht 542-556, tel. (+31) 207 18 46 00, www. waldorastoria.hilton.com. Open 07:00-22:00. Vegetarian menu: €86/person. PJAUBXW

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Cafés You can sit in an historic establishment that’s over 100 years old or sip a special coffee poured by a professional barrista.

CAFÉS CAFÉ GEORGE  This stylish café is the perfe perfect ct place to spend a lazy day with a good book. With views of the Leidsegracht outside, an industrial interior of white tile walls, long leathe r benches and even a dog area, not to mention great food from eggs Benedict or eggs cooked any way you like to gourmet sandwiches and salads, George has all bases covered.  Top shelf alcohol can also a lso be had as well as Champagne. Champa gne. QE-8, Leidsegracht 84, tel. (+31) 206 26 08 02, www. caegeorge.nl. caegeor ge.nl. Open O pen 11:00 11:00-23 -23:00. :00. (€7 - 14 14). ). AB

CAFÉ KOBALT Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night cocktails, this incredibly popular eating and drinking establishment is located in a medieval building with, rough, worn floors, ancient timber ceilings and columns and a typically gabled exterior ex terior not far from the station. Locals know that a table reservation is a wise choice in the evening and even in the afternoon if one wants to enjoy affordable Dutch and international cuisine not to mention a good selection of draught beers from the Amsterdam IJ brewery. You can also listen to DJs on Friday nights and live jazz on Sundays from 17:00.QE-4, Singel 2a, tel. (+31) 203 20 15 59, www. caekobalt.nl. Open 08:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-03:00, Sun 10:00- 01 01:00. :00. (€8 - 15). 15). AIEB

CAFÉ KUIJPER At the weekend it’s pretty much standing room only at Café Kuijper where the music can scarcely be heard above the din of boisterous conversations energised by great draught brews from the IJ, Jopen and Texels breweries. If the crowds bring out your inner claustrophobia then go for a smoke or some fresh air out on the terrace. The features of the interior that stand out most would have to be the blue floral tiles, the strange, metallic lamps dangling from chains above the bar and a huge map of Amsterdam on the wall in the back, not to mention the golden palm trees. Snacks, soups, salads and sandwiches are also available.QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 79, tel. (+31) 206 65 19 26, www.caekuijper.nl. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0003:00. (€5 - 10). AB

Spend time in a classic decades-old café

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Amsterdam In

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CAFÉ SONNEVELD Located on a busy intersection in the heart of the Jordaan, this classic café is always alive with the din of happy locals sipping wine, beer and cocktails. Although a great pit stop for a drink, Sonneveld also serves good food from breakfasts and sandwiches to steaks and even seafood. The huge wooden bar nearly separates the café in two so you can sit in the sunny area or in the slightly darker sec tion on the other side. Naturally, in summer a seat outside is your best bet.QD-6, Egelantiersgracht 72-74, tel. (+31) 204 23 42 87, www.caesonneveld.nl. Open 11:00-23:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 11:00-01:00, -01:00, Sat 09:0009: 00-01 01:00. :00. (€8 - 15 15). ). AB

CAFFE MILO What this popular café lacks in size, it more than makes up for with its style and lively atmosphere. A shiny copper coloured bar with matching lamps is stocked with all the top shelf liquor you could ask for, which comes in handy on Wednesday evenings from 18:00 when all mixed drinks are two for one. Take a seat on plush brown leather benches and order breakfast food, sandwiches and soups for lunch or something more substantial like a Black Angus steak with truffle sauce for dinner. A good selection of beer, a sunny outdoor terrace and free wi-fi are a few more reasons to drop by.QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 71H, tel. (+31) 204 63 80 27, www.caffemilo.com. Open 09:00-01:00, Sat 09:00-03:00, Sun 10:00-01:00. (€7 - 18). ABSW

MATA MAT A HARI HAR I  This casual cafe knows how to serve a good brew and a proper meal in a cosy atmosphere full of comfy sofas and leather armchairs. Named after the legendary Frisian exotic dancer who was later executed by the French on charges of espionage during WWI, this fun venue offers a touch of history and the best that Mediterranean cuisine has to offer. Most of its dishes are made with local or fair trade ingredients and you can enjoy them on a large terrace by the water in the heart of the Red Light district. QB-1 B-1,, Oudezijds Oud ezijds Achterburgwal 22, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 202 05 09 19, www.matahari-amsterdam.nl. Open 12:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00. JAGBKW

CLASSIC CAFÉS BEURS VAN BERLAGE If you’d like to see where locals eat, drink and chat over beer, wine, breakfast food and gourmet sandwiches, then this little slice of history housed in the monumental Beurs van Berlage building is the place to go. Not only can you get a good meal, but you can also admire this legendary example of Amsterdam School architecture and design from the inside with its vaulted ceilings and characteristic tile tableaux by Jan Toorop. The acoustics of the hall makes for a boisterous meal among Amsterdammers, but bear in mind that it’s often difficult to get a seat at lunch, unless you visit the outside terrace in summer.QA-2, Damrak 277 (entrance rom Beurseplein), tel. (+31) 205 31 33 55, www.beursvanberlage.nl/ca. Open 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. (€8 - 15). AB amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Cafés CAFÉ SCHELTEMA  This classi classicc Dutch Dutch café, café, brown bar and beerhall is so authenauthentic it’s a virtual museum of Amsterdam eating and drinking culture. Its worn wooden tables, floors and wall panelling have been around for ages, not to mention the antique memorabilia that seem to cover every available space. An old stove in the centre of the room keeps patrons warm on cold days or perhaps its the jenever and a good selection of Low Country beers that keeps the chill away. Snacks, sandwiches, soups and local main courses are available as well as salads but we recommend the French onion soup or one of its hearty country-style omelettes.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242, tel. (+31) 206 23 23 23. Open 10:0022:00, Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. (€7 - 18). Order a typical Dutch breakfast and don’t forget the beer

CAFÉ SCHILLER CAFÉ AMERICAIN Located on the ground floor of one of Amsterdam’s most historic hotels, the Café Americain serves upmarket upmar ket cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner and although an evening meal can cost you dearly, you can get eggs Benedict for under €10. Its jazz brunches and high tea are also tempting, but many people, especially tourists, come here to soak up the old world atmosphere of its grand interior, which is a mix of both Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles that includes murals, stained glass and fantastic views of the fountain outside. Locals sip coffee and peruse newspapers and magazines at the reading table at the far end. QF-8, Leidsekade 97, tel. (+31) 205 56 30 00, www. edenamsterdamamericanhotel.com. (€10 - 30). AB

CAFÉ DE ZWART  This tiny, classic old world café boasts an inticate, multicoloured tile floor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can order coffee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwiches are also on offer as well as a large outdoor terrace with great views of the hubbub on the square. Given its prime location, Café de Zwart’s food and drink are surprisingly cheap.QA-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24 65 11. Open 09:00-01:00. B

CAFÉ KOOSJE Located on a busy corner near the Artis Zoo, this classic Dutch café offers a large central bar with plenty of places to sit, wooden benches lined up against the walls, some leather couches for lounging, big windows window s with views and plenty of outside seating. Koosje is chock full of authentic local ambience enhanced by pleasant background music that’s interesting, but not distracting. You can order breakfast food, soups and sandwiches from morning until the afternoon and more substantial meals in the evening, but a selection of beer and wine can be had whenever you like. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, try the carrot cake.QI-6, Plantage Middenlaan 37, tel. (+31) 203 20 08 17, www.koosjeamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00. (€7 - 15). ABW facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

Café Schiller is an average sized eating and drinking establishment with a big history and a favourite among young and old Amsterdammers, as well as a hang out for the city ’s fourth estate est ate - the stingiest lot of tipplers you’ll find, unless of course they’ve already has few. Old portraits of venerated men adorn its elegant walls, yet the atmosphere is friendly, relaxed and open. The whole range of IJ microbrews is available in bottles and the wine list is simple and within reach of average citizens and lowly travel writers.  The cuisine is is more upmarket and you can try suckling pig, cod fillet stuffed with oysters or fillet mignon for roughly €20.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 98 46, www.caeschiller.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Fri 16:00-03:00, Sat 14:00-03:00, 14:00- 03:00, Sun 14:00- 01 01:00. :00. (€15 - 20). A

CAFÉ CONFUSION  The Oxford English Dictionary Dictionary defines a café as ‘a small restaurant selling light meals and drinks’ but also adds that in North America it’s a ‘bar or nightclub’, while in South Africa a café is ‘a shop selling sweets, cigarettes, newspapers, newspaper s, etc.’ To add to this confusion it also al so mentions that the word is derived from the French meaning ‘coffee’ or ‘coffee house.’ Obviously in Amsterdam ‘coffeeshops’ are something entirely different. So perhaps the Anglo-Saxons are to blame and simply can’t properly define this most popular of establishments. But surely the Dutch can, right? Well, not really. In fact, locals often refer to bars as cafés and, to add even e ven more confusion to this complicated linguistic problem, they call what the English consider a café a lunchroom. Americans would probably call these lunchrooms cafeterias. Confused yet? In this guide we’ve tried to simplify things by listing places where you put your own food on a tray as a cafeteria and a café as a laid back venue that’s good for a coffee and a light meal or breakfast. We’ve also made a category for classic cafés that includes historic institutions with lots of local colour. Naturally, you can find many of these café qualities at a diner or a greasy spoon, too, but we’ll refrain from opening up that can of worms.  Autumn 2015

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Nightlife NIGHTLIFE Amsterdam’s nightlife needs no introduction, but needless to say you’ll find whatever you’re looking for in this legendary vice capital from fun coffeeshops, raging nightclubs and packed Irish pubs to classic Dutch brown cafés, brew pubs and Belgian beer bars. Erotic entertainment like peep shows, live sex performances and the hard-working Red Light girls are also never far away. For a full list of pubs, clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as videos visit www. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.

BARS

CAFÉ DE KOE We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy patrons at night. It’s kind of like walking into a friend’s house party except your best buddy probably doesn’t have a giant white mural of a cow in his living room or glittering wallpaper plastered to the ceiling above his bar. Alternative rock tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below can bring on a premature case of the munchies.QE-7, Marnixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 82, www.caedekoe.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. A

BIBLOS

CAFÉ EMMELOT

It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or so licence plates from around the globe, currency both young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles, bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else can we say about the atmosphere? It’s smoky, packed with both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of beers and cocktails cockt ails are available, shots seem to be popular. QF-7 F-7,, Lijnbaans Lijn baansgrac gracht ht 243, tel. (+31) (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open Ope n 21:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00-04:00. AX

 This litt little le pub’s popula popularit rityy is no doubt due to its good location on a major Red Light thoroughfare near some of the best window shopping, although you could make the argument that the loud 1980s music really brings ‘em in. Others probably appreciate that the smoking ban isn’t enforced here, but we personally only came for the cheap late night drinks and the pool table. In any event, Emmelot also provides a big TV and if you beg the bar staff they might even put on a football match. Ladies need to ask for the key to crapper at the bar, but the men’s trough is open to all.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 52, tel. (+31) 206 22 16 26. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 11:00-03:00. -03:00. BX

BRANDSTOF Located across the street from the fire department, Brandstof (flammable materials) is absolutely incandescent at the weekend and given the huge crowds that congregate here, this trendy café-cum-club could definitely be a fire hazard. You’ll have to wait a while until you finally reach the bar, which is dimly illuminated by two large street lamps, so order enough drinks drink s to keep you wet for a while. Although popular with a beautiful, yet casually dressed clientele of 20- and 30-somethings in the evenings, it’s also a good place for an early breakfast or a light lunch. QD-6, Marnixstraat 357, tel. (+31) 204 22 08 13, www. bar-brandsto.nl. Open 08:00-01:00, Fri 08:00-03:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 11:00-03:00. -03:00. AB

CAFÉ SOUND GARDEN Being old Seattle sound enthusiasts ourselves, we had to come to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about. Would you believe it that as we walked in, Soundgarden was blaring from the speakers? Okay, it was actually Audioslave, but pretty damn close. If you’d like to see what an old squatter’s bar probably looked like before they sold out (but with more Americans), then this is the place to go. You can play pool or foosball inside or hit the private canalside terrace, which must infuriate the posh neighbours next door in the evenings when things heat up. Inside there’s also a smoking room, not to mention a huge painting of Henry Rollins performing in naught but his undies. QD-6, Marnixstraat 164 – 166, tel. (+31) 206 20 28 53, www.caesoundgarden.nl. www.caesound garden.nl. Open 13:00-01:00, Fri 13:0013:0003:00, Sat 15:00-03:00, Sun 15:00-01:00. EBX

DRINK ‘N’ SINK 

What could be more inviting than a local brown bar?

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We’re not sure if the name is a greeting or a warning, but  judging by the happy, inebriated crowds cr owds that occupy the bar and its booths at night, it’s probably a little of both. Scream past the ear-shattering classic rock or techno music and order a Grolsch or a cocktail. Watch sports on several TVs, escape the mayhem upstairs or play pool in the basement, but if you think that the drink has sunk you, don’t panic. It’s probably just the reflection from an improbable and unnecessary number of disco balls messing with your head. Unfortunately, you have to pay €0.50 for the dubious toilets downstairs.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 27 01 25. A amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife LOUIS BAR �CAFÉ DE DAM�  This place claims to be Amsterdam’s smallest bar and it really is quite tiny. Hundreds of beer coasters adorn the walls and just as many football scarves dangle from the ceiling. American law enforcement patches and plenty of Beatles memorabilia also contribute to the décor of this iconic watering hole where classic rock seems to dominate the musical landscape and the beer selection is decent, if a bit pricey. A sign reads ‘Tipping isn’t a city in China’ and if you do decide to leave your bar tender some coins he’ll put them in a wooden Ajax shoe behind the bar.QA-2, Damstraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 24 53 31. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 11:00-03:00. -03:00. BS

LUX High city centre prices for both wine (and even tea) might throw you off at first, but the experience and the cool crowd of Café Lux near Leidseplein really makes it worth a visit (or two). Enjoy the outrageous pornographic, yet elegant images, the stellar design of the mirror walls with hints of Asian elements and the deep red ceiling. Expats and young hipsters flock here for drinks before and after painting the town and so should you.QE-7 E-7,, Marnixstr Ma rnixstraat aat 403, tel. (+31) 204 22 14 12, www.weberlux.nl. Open 19:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00-04:00. PJN

WEBER Weber is billed as a club/bar for an alternative crowd loth to listen to pop and techno music on their night out and we’d have to agree. At the weekend it’s packed, quite stuffy and quite hard to get into and even harder to get out. New Wave and indie music icons line one wall, while the other boasts three portraits of American astronauts and what appears to be the head of a water buffalo. Alternative indeed. Seating on faux leopard skin seats in the cellar is often easier to find.QE-8, Marnixstraat 397, tel. (+31) 206 22 99 10, www.weberlux.nl. Open 19:0003:00, Fri, Sat 19:00-04:00. A

BEER BARS BEER TEMPLE  The word temple temple isn’t isn’t mere hyperbole. IfIf you’re you’re into American craft brews you might just be tempted to drop to your knees in awe and reverence at the sight of the huge blackboard that lists hundreds of beers by such brewing heavyweights as Samuel Adams, Saranac, Anchor, Brooklyn and Flying Dog. Roughly 20 beers are available on draught, including the house Tempelbier, but most are in bottles. If you’ve had your fill of ales and IPAs, you can try some exotic libations like the 32% Tactical Nuclear Penguin brew. Good pub grub like wings and hot dogs can also be had here. QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250, tel. (+31) 206 27 14 27, www.beertemple.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Fri 16:0003:00, Sat 14:00-03:00, Sun 14:00-22:00. ABW

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LONDON CALLING Every year the Paradiso Club hosts this biannual event in the spring and autumn to showcase up-and-coming bands that you may not have heard of, but which will no doubt be renowned artists in the future, if not household names. You can check out the latest edition of this alternative rock extravaganza on October 30 (line-up: Circa Waves, The Jacques and more) and 31  (line-up: Lower Dens, Girl Band and more), but be sure to buy your tickets as soon as possible as concerts sell out quickly. Previous participants of London Calling have included Florence & the Machine, Franz Ferdin Ferdinand and and Bloc Party. Visit www.londoncalling.nl www.londoncalling.nl for more information.

CAFÉ BELGIQUE A couple of tables, a few stools at the bar, two benches outside and that’s about it for seating in this tiny brown bar specialising in delicious Belgian brews too numerous to mention by name. Rest assured, that if you’re a beer connoisseur the only complaint you’ll have here is that the glasses are too small. Perhaps that’s a blessing given that most of the suds sold here weigh in somewhere just below the 10% alcohol mark. Recommended.QA-2, Gravenstraat 2, tel. (+31 (+31) 206 25 19 74, 74, www.cae-belgi ww w.cae-belgique. que. nl. Open 14:00-01:00. EB

GOLLEM’S PROEFLOKAAL  Take a 10-minut  Take 10-minutee tram tr am ride from the Central Station (tram Nr.1) to this shrine dedicated to beer. If they don’t have your favourite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that Gollem has it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar. Dutch snacks can also be had as well as some daily specials written on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shelves of glasses.QE-10, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31) 206 12 94 44, www.caegollem.nl. Open 13:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00, Sun 12:00-01:00. AB

IN DE WILDEMAN Just look at the chalkboard above the door to see what’s on draught at one of Amsterdam’s best beer bars, which is located in a former distillery. Even brew hounds like us are a little overwhelmed in a place like this, but thankfully the friendly staff can suggest one of the nearly 20 beers available on draught or perhaps one of the 200 brews In de Wildeman offers in bottles. bott les. If you’re still not convinced, the bartender will pour you a small sample to taste before you order. The spacious interior consists of the usual wooden tables, but also a black and white tiled floor and a long green bar. Traditional snacks from liverwurst and cheese to frites are also available.QA-1, Kolksteeg 3, tel. (+31) 206 38 23 48, www.indewildeman.nl. Open 12:0001:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00.  Autumn 2015

21

Nightlife BILLIARDS & POOL

BREW PUBS

CLUB�8

BROUWERIJ ‘T IJ

It’s difficult not to get distracted by all the sports on TV as you try to sink your own ball in this modern pool café. On the first floor you’ll find a spacious, well-equippe d club. QC-8, Admiraal Admi raal de Ruyter Ruyterweg weg 56b, tel. tel . (+31) (+31) 206 85 17 03, www.club-8.nl. Open 14:00-03:00, Fri 14:00-04:00, Sat 12:00-04:00, Sun 12:00-03:00.

You really have to want to find this place. Thankfully, we did, but our thirst for new brews is, of course, the stuff of legends. Just look for the giant windmill about a 20-minute walk northwest of the Artis Zoo along the Hoogte Kadijk to find this microbrewery offering at least eight unique beers including something akin to a pilsner as well as the spicy (their word) Columbus, which has an alcohol content of 9%.  The tasting room was renovated in 201 20155 and and is much classi classier er than it used to be, but loads of people still choose to imbibe at the picnic tables outside. Beers are remarkably cheap by local standards, but only snacks are available so you might want to pace yourself. Take tram No.10 toward Azartplein from Leidseplein, get off at the Hoogte Kadijk stop and turn right.QK-5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 206 22 83 25, www. brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00-20:00. BS

DE KEU  There are dozens of pool tables and a great Bohemian vibe here at one of Amsterdam’s oldest billiards halls. The walls are covered in old movie posters and there’s always plenty of people hanging about abo ut with drinks in their hands. Open until the wee hours hour s of the morning, the Cue is much more than just a place to play eight ball. It’s also one of Amsterdam West’s best late night hotspots.QE-9, Eerste Helmerstraat 5 - 7, tel. (+31) 202 30 05 51, www.dekeu. nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00.

PLAN B Walk down a pleasant, brightly lit alleyway off of Overtoom to find what has to be the biggest pool hall and sports bar combination you’ve probably ever seen. A dozen tables are kept in the main hall of what used to be a church, while less ambitious patrons lay about on comfortable chairs and couches smoking and drinking to their heart’s content. Live sports are shown on a number of TVs and are also projected onto a huge screen on the far wall. One snooker table is also available and eight-ball competitions are held on Monday nights.QE-10, Overtoom 209, tel. (+31) 208 45 62 21, www.planbovertoom.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Wed 14:00-01:00, Fri 16:00-03:00, Sat 14:00-03:00. AX

THE POOL HOLE Unlike most pool halls, this one also has plenty of areas where you can sit down and relax without the unmistakable clack-clack of billiard balls smacking into one another. That said, this partially sunken cellar offers half a dozen tables and a laid back Bohemian atmosphere with good tunes on the sound system and lots of candlelight. QA-3, Voetboogstraat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www. thepoolhole.com. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0003:00. AB

DE BIERFABRIEK  Watch out! You’re bound to end up completely hammered, hammere d, slipping and sliding across the peanut shell-littered floor, especially if you choose to sit at a table with your own beer tap at this large minimalist space inspired by American bars. The Beer Factory offers the simplest of menus that basically consists of mouth-watering grilled chicken and beer, which can be both its strongest and weakest selling point depending on your point of view. QA-2/3, Rokin 75, tel. (+31) 205 28 99 10, www.bierabriek.nl. Open 15:00-01:00, Fri 15:0015:00-02:00, 02:00, Sat 13:00 13:00-02:00, -02:00, Sun 13:00-24:00. (€14 - 19). PJAK

PROEFLOKAAL DE PRAEL Hidden in a narrow alley between two of the city centre’s busiest pedestrian streets you’ll find the tasting room of the De Prael microbrewery. Sample all of the company’s beers in an atmosphere that’s too hip and positively overwhelming to describe. Three levels of old mismatched furniture, white tiles, faux Persian rugs, wooden tables and beer memorabilia await you in a space that’s industrial, old-fashioned and modern all at once, not to mention the actual brewery itself visible behind a glass wall. Good pub grub is also on the menu and rock tunes dominate the soundtrack.QB-1 B-1,, Oudezijds Ou dezijds Armsteeg 26, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl. Open 13:00-23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00-01:00. Closed Mon. A

BROWN BARS CAFÉ BRANDON

Give in to temptation this autumn

22 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

 This classic brown bar is popular with both young and old, but tourists are seldom seen here. Perhaps it’s the lack of a  TV or the whiff of cigarette smoke that discourages them from entering. Maybe the sight of rugs as tablecloths is off-putting. In any case, it’s a good place to meet locals, especially in the evening when it fills up, and the location is picturesque to say the least.QE-5, Keizersgracht 157, tel. (+31) 654 34 71 36. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0003:00. JX amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife CAFÉ CHRIS Only a five-minute walk from the Anne Frank Frank House is a place that claims to be Amsterdam’s oldest continuously running café. It’s said that the place came into existence in 1624 as a public bar for the Westerkerk’s construction workers who recieved their salaries here and probably left most of it on the premises too. The selection of beer is nothing special in comparison to the curiousities of the place itself like the old toilet pull chain on the wall outside the bathroom.QE-5, Bloemstraat 42, tel. (+31) 206 24 59 42, www.caechris.nl. Open 15:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 15:0002:00, Sun 15:00-21:00. JGB

CAFÉ EIK EN LINDE Although the original ‘Oak and Lime’ café opened in 1865 in what is now the Artis Zoo, its current incarnation a couple of blocks away has been around since 1967. This classic brown bar is more spacious than similar establishments and you even have to go outside to smoke! Some excellent brews are available in bottles and on draught for decent prices and you can order soups, omelettes, steaks and other traditional Dutch food. Relax on an intricately carved wooden bench, pet the bar’s cat that often sleeps by the window or try to figure out how locals can play pool on a table without pockets.QI-5, Plantage Middenlaan 22, tel. (+31) 206 22 57 16, www.eikenlinde.nl. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 14:00-02:00. Closed Sun, ABW

CAFÉ PAPENEILAND  This unusual brown bar dating back to 1642 offers o ffers great views of canals and church spires from its excellent position at the picturesque intersection of the Prinsengracht and the Brouwersgracht. Inside you’ll find an antique interior of wood furniture, old blue and white tiles on the walls and a beautiful, if a bit dusty, Delft chandelier. Other outstanding décor features include copper bed warmers, an ornately decorated cast iron stove and white Christmas lights strung from the high ceiling. Unlike other bars of its genre, Café Papeneiland also offers seating above the claustrophobic bar where patrons are allowed to smoke. Sip a jenever with one of the old-timers or order one of a handful of beers on draught.QE-4, Prinsengracht 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 19 89, www.papeneiland.nl. BX

DE PILSENER CLUB �DE ENGELSE REET�  Tucked away in a tiny alleyway off the Kalverst Kalverstraat, raat, this simple brown bar is perhaps best known for the fact that it really has no bar to speak of. Polite male gentlemen in neckties pour a wide variety of delicious brews from a back alcove/closet area lending this dark room an odd, yet old world atmosphere. The peeling wallpaper, wrinkled lithographs of Amsterdam and sand-covered floor only add to the feeling that De Pilsener Club is a time capsule that only locals and the occasional wayward tourist bot her to enter. But in our opinion, it’s a welcome respite from the international chains and big brands that line the city’s main shopping artery outside.QA-3, Begijnensteeg 4, tel. (+31) 206 23 17 77. Open 12:00-01:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

BOCK BEER FESTIVAL What began as a small gathering of bock beer enthusiasts in a tiny Amsterdam brown bar back in 1978 has evolved into a threeday brew festival that attracts beer aficionados from around Europe. Organised by PINT, an organisation that promotes traditional Dutch brews, this year’s festival will take place from October 23 - 25 in the Beurs van Berlage building (Damrak 277, www.beu www.beursvanberrsvanberlage.nl). Admission will set you back around €10 and each beer costs roughly €2.50. Last year’s event was attended by over 11,000 beer fans and live music will entertain festival-goers, so you’re guaranteed a good time. Opening times are as follows: Fri 17:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. For more information visit www.faceb www.facebook.com/pintb ook.com/pintbokbierfestival. okbierfestival.

ONDER DE OOIEVAAR �UNDER THE STORK� It’s obvious that this popular brown b rown bar is run by a new generation of beer and spirits purveyors. Its website is advertised prominently on the front window, the interior is made of wood, but hardly worn, the clientele look young and professional and smoking is strictly forbidden. An excellent selection of beer is available from Trappist brews to local concoctions from the IJ microbrewery right here in Amsterdam. Cocktails, snacks, a TV and even a dartboard are also available. In short, it’s a cosy, modern 21st-century take on a classic concept.QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 119, tel. (+31) 206 24 68 36, www.onderdeooievaar.nl. Open 10:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-03:00, Sun 10:30-01:00. AB

CASINOS & GAMBLING HOLLAND CASINO Located on the water between Leidseplein and the Ri jksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating and drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside you’ll find well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focused gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing battle with machines with imaginative names like Rich Girls, K ing Kong Cash, Outback Jack and Cash Fever. QF-8, Max Euweplein 62, tel. (+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino. nl. Open 12:00-03:00. POJAUGKX

MERKUR CASINO  This casino has 750m2 of space, which means 185 players can gamble simultaneously. Even if you don´t like gambling, take a look at the lush interior in this completely renovated old theatre.QG-7 G-7,, Reguliersbrees Reguli ersbreestraat traat 31 - 33, www.merkur-casino.nl. Open 10:00-24:00, Sun 13:0024:00. OJA  Autumn 2015

23

Nightlife  ADULT  ADUL T INSTITUTIONS CASA ROSSO  This iconic live sex theatre provides pr ovides continuous action for as long as you like. The programme varies over the course of the evening and ranges in theme from simple strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact, it seems that Casa Rosso provides something for all of the popular fetishes including a husky woman so as not to neglect the chubby chasers among us.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106 - 108, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: €35; €50 including our drinks. A

THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB Downstairs for €50 you can drink all you can swill for one hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented women who can do all kinds of interesting things with ping pong balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club, which has a, shall we say, more dignified atmosphere where guests pay €10 admission to sit by the pole where beautiful women show their moves in various states of undress. Ordering drinks is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 37, tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.bananenbar.nl. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Admission: bar €45, club €10.

CLUBS AKHNATON It’s pretty, it’s got a small bar with white-teethed barmen and it’s got a low stage for all your funky dance moves.  The basic ingredients ingre dients for fo r a good night out, out , right? Akhnaton hosts several recurring parties that have a little something for everyone including glow-in-the-dark parties, queer parties, food parties and even fetish parties with surprisingly user-friendly prices. Naturally, it’s not all beer and skittles here all the time, but you can usually find a good party at the weekend. Check its website for upcoming events.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 25, tel. (+31) 206 24 33 96, www.akhnaton.nl. B

CLUB ESCAPE Don’t let the name fool you. When partying in Amsterdam, there’s no real escaping this large collection of clubs, unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986, Escape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The shrill house music in Escape Club won’t appeal to everyone, but you can move on to four other separate areas: Deluxe, Studio, Caffé and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway because you’re caught between high school students and tourists? QB-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11, www. escape.nl. Open Thu 23:00-04:00, 23:00- 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00, Sun 23:00-04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE

CLUB UP Where would you go partying as an artist in Amsterdam? Most would say De Kring, but that’s that ’s a members-only place. Club Up serves as a spin-off dance club of De Kring, and the best part is: it’s open for everyone. With paintings on the wall, a tight design and lounge couches next to the dance floor, the club aims for diverse audiences on different evenings. However, there isn’t really anything that makes this place stand out from other like-minded dance clubs. It might also take you a while to locate the place, since the narrow entrance is set between two tall buildings, which can make finding Up quite a downer.QF-7, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26-I, tel. (+31) 206 23 69 85, www.clubup.nl. Open Thu 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 22:0005:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PUG

NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY We’re more at home at a punk rock show than a house club, but even we could sense that something special was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the professional international DJs from as far away as the States, who know how to get a crowd moving here. The style is casual so don’t worry about your trainers and leave your D&G gear at home. This isn’t exactly the place for the superficial glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music. Belly up to the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join the action.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 238, tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugaractory.nl. Open Thu, Sun 21:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission: €5 - 12. AE

WINSTON KINGDOM

 The Red Light district looks a little different in the cold light of day

24 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

 The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstr Warmoesstraat, aat, Amsterdam’s notoriously naughty street, might make one think twice about a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a mistake. This dark graffiti-sprayed club actually offers decent dance nights and smashing live performances from tomorrow’s big indie and electro acts like Justice like  Justice and  and The Gaslight Anthem who Anthem who have both played here. Filled with a surprising mix of lost tourists and music-loving locals, this is an excellent escape from the Warmoes, but there’s plenty of sleaze to find here too, if you’re really looking for it.QA-2, Warmoesstraat 131, tel. (+31) 206 23 13 80, www.winston.nl. Open 21:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 21:0005:00. Admission: €5 - 10. E amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife COCKTAILS & LOUNGE BARS

IRISH PUBS

DOOR DOO R 74 74

MOLLY MALONE’S

 Talk about ab out a hidden gem! You’ll definitely walk past this place a few times before realising there’s a doorbell and a mysterious big black door worth noticing. But it’s not just a trendy concept or an attempt to be hip. Inside you’ll be moved by excellent drinks, including vintage Champagnes if you can afford them, attentive bar staff, free olives and nuts and a fun speakeasy atmosphere. But don’t forget to make a reservation or you’ll have to queue up with all the others ringing the doorbell.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 74I, tel. (+31) 634 04 51 22, www.door-74.com. Open 20:00-02:00. JA

Although this cosy cellar pub has had a Celtic makeover with an Irish flag, Guinness memorabilia and the odd shamrock, there are also plent y of old Dutch liquor casks lined up against the wall like the ones you see at local jenever joints. Order a Kilkenny and some Irish salmon or spare ribs, watch football on SkySports and listen to occasional live music on we ekend nights here. Naturally, plenty of whiskey is also on offer including some good single malts. Although it has all the makings of yet another tourist trap, its location on a quiet canal lends it a laid back quality that’s hard to find at similar establishments.QB-1, Oudezijds Kolk 9, tel. (+31) 206 24 11 50, www.mollyinamsterdam.com. Open 15:00-01:00, Fri 12:30-03:00, Sat 11:00-03:00, Sun 11:00-01:00. AE B

DVARS According to Dvars, it’s not just a location, it’s a family.  This place has attitu attitude de and it’s going to need it occupying the spot where the legendary gay-friendly bar Arc and the short-lived Eve had their adventures. Unlike the rest of the Reguliersdwarsstraat, however, the bustling Dvars sports a rather mixed audience who appreciate the enormous aquariums stocked with tropical fish and the provocative pictures on the walls. One thing that can’t be ignored is the the brightly lit interior that makes you feel as if you’ve stepped into a microwave oven.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat liersdwar sstraat 44, 4 4, tel. (+31) (+31) 203 203 20 91 05, www.dvars. www.dvar s. nl. Open 16:00-01:00. Closed Mon.

SKYLOUNGE One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar on the 11th floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terrific view of the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the staff  are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elabo rate cocktail last quite a while at this breathtaking location. QG/H-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00, www.skyloungeamsterdam.com. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 11:00-03:00. -03:00. PJAUEBKXW

SKYY BAR On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth.  The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here it’s a good place to visit even if you just want to have a look at the beautiful girls in sexy outfits while sipping a cocktail or some champagne. We recommend the surprisingly affordable  porn star martini , which is a tasty drink indeed. QN-3, Hendrikje Stoffelsstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08 00, www.skyybar.nl. Open 18:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 18:0002:00. AULGKW

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TEMPLE BAR  This Irish pub offer offerss the usual Guinne Guinness ss and Kilke Kilkenny nny brews as well as domestic beer on draught and you can, of course, watch sports on TV while eating a big breakfast. Americans will also be happy to know that Temple Bar shows NFL football games every Sunday night during the season and you can even order a Bud longneck should you feel the need to carry the nostalgia to an unnecessary extreme. If you’re curious about the interior you can expect exposed brick walls and pleather upholstered benches and booths. Some international snacks like dim sum and chicken satay can also be had here, but you have to pay €0.50 for the toilets!QB-2, Kloveniersburgwal 2, tel. (+31) 204 27 44 00. Open 10:00-00:30, Fri, Sat 10:00-01:30. 10:00 -01:30. AB

RED LIGHT STREETS Don’t be one of those tourists fresh off the train that asks the nearest local where the Red Light District is located. It’s not hard to find so just walk straight down the Damrak, as most people do, and make a left at the Grasshopper. Then  just keep walking walking pretty much straight ahead until you hit Oudezijds Voorburgwal and, one canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is the main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex theatres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is also chock full of working girls and you should definitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg, Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby. Although not as popular with tourists, there’s also a street full of red lights between the Spuistraat and the Singel on Oude Nieuwstraat.  Autumn 2015

25

Nightlife JENEVER BARS

LIVE MUSIC

IN DE OLOFSPOORT

ALTO JAZZ CAFÉ

 The historic building that houses this charming bar was built in 1618 1618 and replaced the 14th-centur y St. Olaf’s Olaf ’s Gate, hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort offers over 200 different spirits including traditional and exotic local jenevers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade cherryy and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers won’t be disapcherr pointed either as the Belgian Affligem Double on draught is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms ro oms of it genre, this one provides plenty of space for its patrons.QB-1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18, www.olospoort. com. Open 16:00-00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00-01:30, Sun 15:0022:00. Closed Tue. A

 This legendary legendar y Amsterdam club is about abou t as long as a train t rain car, but perhaps even narrower. You’ll definitely have to make some physical contact with other music enthusiasts to get to the stage where live jazz, funk or salsa acts perform every night in front of a packed crowd of hipsters, locals and foreigners in the know. It’s dark the t he way a jazz club clu b should be and has something of a clandestine speakeasy feel to it. There’s no cover charge, but even simple drinks like a Jack and Coke can set you back dearly.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115, tel. (+31) 206 26 32 49, www.  jazz-cae-alto.nl.  jazzcae-alto.nl. Open 21 21:00 :00-03:00, -03:00, Fri, Sat 21 21:00 :00-04:00. AE

PROEFLOKAAL DE OOIEVAAR

BOURBON STREET

On the modern nightlife front this tiny one-room bar in the Red Light district can hardly compete with neighbouring sports bars and coffeeshops. It offers no TV, no internet connection and no ganja. People here actually have to talk to one another to pass the t he time while sipping one of dozens of traditional jenevers that line the walls of this ancient bar and this is precisely why we like it. The barman wears a necktie and offers a smile and a chat to anyone who comes in not to mention a boiled egg from the bar - a local tradition. You can also have a beer here, but enjoy this endangered slice of the past while you can.QB-1, Sint Olospoort 1, tel. (+31) 204 20 80 04, www.proeflokaaldeooievaar.nl. Open 12:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-03:00.

 This place place actually looks a bit like a barn on the inside with the exception of the musical instruments hanging from the rafters and the chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the weekend it’s hard to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies assembled here to listen to blues and rock bands and the bouncers don’t seem to have any qualms about letting as many people in as is physically possible, but at least you’re getting real entertainment for your €5 cover and not the blaring Top 40 and techno at neighbouring bars. If you’d like to use the toilet, try coming on a weeknight. Live music every evening.QF-7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206 23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Open 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00-05:00. Admission: €3 - 5. AE

WYNAND FOCKINK 

CAFÉ CASABLANCA

 This ancient room that looks more like a neglec neglected ted museum than a popular bar and tourist attraction has been serving unique Dutch liqueurs and spirits with names like Rose Without Thorns, Bridal Tears and My Aunt’s Water since 1679. A thick layer of dust covers all of the empty antique bottles as well as the full ones that cause the wooden shelves to sag precariously above one another. Unfortunately, it’s a little hard to find as the Krasnapolsky Hotel has enveloped it over the years, but if you do eventually get here don’t forget to slurp your liqueur without using your hands when you take your first sip – a local tradition.QA-2, Pijlsteeg 31, tel. (+31) 206 39 26 95, www. wynand-ockink.nl. Open 15:00-21:00.

Have you ever seen a 13-piece band including a horn section and a drummer perform in you’re living room? Well you don’t have to. Come to this small bar where live music on a grand scale is guaranteed nearly every evening. Domelsch, Hertog Jan and Hoegaarden are available on draught, violins, trumpets and accordions adorn the walls and old master replicas are suspended from the ceiling. If this all sounds a little too rowdy for your tastes, you can always take in some cabaret or a magic show at its bar/ restaurant/theatre restaurant/the atre next nex t door.QB-1, Zeedijk 26E, tel. (+31) 612 20 05 19, www.caecasablanca.nl. Open 20:0003:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00. AE

THE WATERHOLE

Lift your spirits with a local beverage

26 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

 This is the kind of place where you would would expect expec t Jim Morrison (or someone like him) to be a regular. A true roadhouse. It’s dark, loud and little bit smoky and every square meter of wall space is covered either in booze bottl es, rock posters, graffiti or musical instruments. Listen to live music from folk and blues to rock nearly every night, shoot pool on three tables or order a Bavaria draught, which is nothing special, but plenty of good beers are available in bottles. If you need another excuse to come, it also offers a good happy hour until 21:00 on weeknights.QE-8, Korteleidsedwarsstraat 49, tel. (+31) 206 20 89 04, www. waterhole.nl/Waterhole/WELKOM.html. Open 14:0003:00. EBX amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife PUBS

DOCUMENTARY DOCUMENT ARY FILM FEST

BALLS  This aptly named pub doesn’t have much to do with sports or, in our estimation, courageous men, but it does offer three red felt pool tables on the second floor for €2 per game. On the ground floor you can expect a typically Dutch brown bar with a not so typical copper-topped bar with loads of stools. Bavaria beer is poured from billiard ball taps, but if you’d like something better Duvel is available in bottles. Rock music seems to rule the realm here, but you can forgo the guitar chords in the smoking room where you can watch sports on T V.QF-6, Reguliersdwarstraat 37. Open 09:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-03:00.

Each autumn documentary film aficionados arrive in Amsterdam to see the very latest films about true life in various cultures around the globe. This year’s documentaries will be shown from November 18 - 29. 29. Although the exact programme and screening venues weren’t yet known as we went to print, you can check out its website www.idfa.nl for more information as it becomes available.

CAFÉ THIJSSEN Named after the bloke whose statue graces the square outside, this friendly neighbourhood pub is frequented by people of all ages and stripes and is known for its impressive beer selection and huge, yet casual terrace that instantly quadruples the bar’s capacity each summer. café with a long bar that is only  The interior is pure bruin café with knee-high on one side. No matter, tiny stools were added to compensate for the lack of altitude. A huge cupboard is stocked with board games from checkers and chess to Risk and that old school classic – Boggle.QE-4, Brouwersgracht 107, tel. (+31) 206 23 89 94, www.caethijssen. nl. Open 08:00-01:00, Fri 08:00-03:00, Sat 07:30-03:00, Sun 09:00-01:00. BW

SPORTS BARS PLAYERS You’ll find this cellar sports bar full of foreign men watching football on SkySports only a stone’s throw from Dam Square. Occasionally you’ll even see a bored spouse or girl friend faking enthusiasm for the match of day. The louderthan-life commentary and the giant photos of the terraces almost make you believe that you’re in the stadium. In any event, it’s a great place to watch sports, it’s open very late and it pours Guinness and Kilkenny brews, not to mention pitchers of local Bavaria. Pool tables are also available.QA-2, Warmoesstraat 170, tel. (+31) 204 20 05 63, www.playersamsterdam.nl. Open 19:00-03:00, Fri 16:00-04:00, Sat 12:00-04:00, Sun 12:00-03:00. A

SATELLITE SA TELLITE SPORTS SPORT S CAFÉ If you’re hungry for sports and, well, lots of food, then a visit to this place with the boring, yet aptly chosen name of Satellite Sports Café might just be in order. The place is decorated with flat screen TVs and not much else, which means it’s clearly meant for gents with a hankering for football and an appetite worthy of a Viking feas. Order enormous English breakfasts and steaks or test your stomach’s mettle with its speciality: all-you-can-eat ribs. Shot specials and pitchers of Heineken are available on two floors on busy Leidseplein.QF-8, Leidseplein 11, tel. (+31) 204 27 25 29, www.satellitesportscae.nl. Open 08:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00. AB facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

WHISKY BARS WHISKYCAFÉ L&B Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on offer on the blackboard, take a deep breath and find your favourite scotch. The aptly named Whiskycafé has over 1500 different single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from around the world including famous highland spirits as well as drinks from obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze in around the central bar and ponder the possibilities.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82 - 84, tel. (+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.nl. Open 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-04:00. A

WINE BARS BUBBLES & WINES In 2011 it was chosen as the best wine bar in the city, so you can be fairly sure that you’ll find a cabarnet or pinot noir that suits you. Its wide selection of 400 bottles, of which 58 are served by the glass, is one of the main attractions of this modern hot spot. The friendly staff will also go out of their way to help you if you haven’t got a clue what to order.QA-2, Nes 37, tel. (+31) 204 22 33 18, www.bubblesandwines.com. Open 15:30-21:00, Sun 14:00-21:00. JAGW

MULLINER’S WIJNLOKAAL  The first thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar, apart from the polished wooden bar and the green leather benches, was the smell of garlic. Escargot was being prepared along with a myriad of other delicious tapas, but Mulliner’s main focus is of course wine in all its lovely incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from the month’s specials on the blackboard and relax in this candlelit room. QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267, tel. (+31) 206 27 97 82, www.mulliners-wijnlokaal.nl. Open 17:00-24:00. Closed Mon. A  Autumn 2015

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Gay Amsterdam It’s hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands became the first country in the world to officially recognise same-sex marriages. With four distinctive distinctive gay districts in the city centre, rainbow flags on nearly every other street and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what can be dubbed Amsterdam’s Gay Village. All areas are within easy walking distance of one another. The prime area is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants. Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district (with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafés).

GAY INFORMATION

NIGHTLIFE Here’s a small selection of our favourite gay hangouts.

CAFE LELLEBEL Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein you’ll find an alternative to the square’s legendary nightlife, which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and meat markets. Amsterdam’s only drag show bar is a cosy haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a cutting edge design lounge so popular with the gay scene these days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and gays have enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and it always makes a good showing at the gay canal boat parade each year. It’s also the  place to go for karaoke every Tuesday night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204 27 51 39, www.lellebel.nl. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. A

GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE �GAYTIC�

CLUB CHURCH

 This place offers lots of information about every everything thing you’d like or need to know about the gay scene in Amsterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and publications. You can also buy stuff at its Gays&Gadgets shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61, www. gaytic.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A

 This is Amsterdam Amsterdam’s ’s ultimat ultimatee cruising cruising club with two floors of play and dance areas that offer changing theme parties and DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the venue and lots of more serious kinky toys are available for use including slings, private cabins and even a Saint Andrew’s cross, which has nothing to do with heraldry and everything to do with bondage. Yep, you can get it as wild or rough as you’d like it, but it’s probably not the best place to have your first gay experience and definitely not an appropriate venue to have an after-work drink with your straight business colleagues. QF-7 F-7,, Kerkstraat Kerkst raat 52, www.clubchurch.nl. www.clubchurc h.nl. Open Ope n Tue, Tue, Wed 20:00 - 01:00, Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 22: 00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PJX

PINK POINT & HOMOMONUMENT HOMOMO NUMENT �GAY INFO CENTRE� Pink Point provides general information about gay and lesbian Amsterdam. It’s staffed by volunteers who can provide all kinds of information about gay organisations and about gay life in general in the Dutch capital and they also sell some of the coolest gay souvenirs in the country. The nearby Monument to Homosexuals or Homomonument  was designed in 1987 by artist Karin Daan to inspire and support lesbians and gays in their struggle against discrimination. It is also a memorial to gay men and women who were oppressed and persecuted because of their lifestyles and beliefs. The pink triangle was the symbol homosexuals were forced to wear by the Nazis. Sadly one of the three granite triangles is located right next to a public urinal. Talk about discrimination!QE-5, Westermarkt, Westermar kt, tel. (+31 (+31) 20 428 10 70, www.pinkpoint.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00. J6

NYX NY X Where one falls, another rises from its ashes. The notorious Club Exit died an early death and now there’s a new kid in town: NYX. The numerous glow-in-the-dark stairs, the techno blasts and live music on different levels as well as the wood, rusty metal and concrete graffiti-clad walls of this gay-friendly venue put one in mind of a Berlin squat, which is a refreshing deviation from most of Amsterdam’s polished hotspots. Visit NYX for an adventure and to mingle with the clientele, which is neither exclusively gay or straight, but beware of stealthy and not-so-stealthy looks.QG-8, Reguliersdwa Reguliersdwarsstraat rsstraat 42, ww w.c w.clubnyx.nl. lubnyx.nl. Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A

PRIK 

Amsterdam’s elegible bachelors at Prik

28 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Prik, a relaxed and cosy café near Dam Square, is the ideal place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother, and have a drink to start the night off. Prosecco on tap, sexy cocktails, tasty finger food a live DJ and a good vibe will probably make you linger around longer than you might have planned. It was voted several times as the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why. Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02, www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PJAGB amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Gay Amsterdam REALITY Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and other hot destinations, so it’s a bit alternative compared to the other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa, merengue and calypso is also available for those who are fed up with the regular gay bubblegum. This might also be the place to see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned men and their toys are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31) 206 39 30 12, www.barreality. reehomepage.com. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJG

TABOO  Th is ba  This barr bo boas asts ts t wo big sc scre reens ens sho showin wing g ch chee eesy sy mu mu-sic videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly and  d  a and attentive an   a comfy smoking room on the first floor which seems to be a winning combination especially on a street that needed a breath of fresh air.  Two hap h appy py ho hour urss a day (f (fro rom m 18:00 18: 00 - 19:00 19: 00 an and d 24:0 24 :000 01:00) 01 :00) has also helped to build up a steady and happy clientièle. Sundays offer a double happy hour from 18:00 until 20:00!QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel. (+31) 207 75 39 63, www.taboobar.nl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00.

PJNGBX

VIVELAVIE An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still alive and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails and dance in the late hours in this Art Deco-style space.  The menu offers tapa tapas, s, tosti tosties es and other finger food and the music varies from lounge and gay classics to upbeat and everything in between. Even gay men like it here!QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 24 01 14, www.vivelavie.net. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 04:00. PJNBX

SAUNAS THERMOS SAUNA One of the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a legendary gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies, students and the occasional geriatric all mix in the labyrinth upstairs and the wet compartments on ground floor that include a swimming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and whirlpool. The décor is still very much stuck in the 1970s and about as cosy as the interior of a nuclear power plant, but most men seem to focus on other things, which explains the cruisy atmosphere, especially at the weekend. An attached hair salon and beauty parlour is also available for those in need and free condoms can be found at the bar.QE-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 58, office@ thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission: under 21 years €10, 22 - 25 years €14, and 26 and over €19. PJFBKXC facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

BET VAN BEEREN’S CAFÉ Although Amsterdam is now one of the most gayfriendly cities in the world, it wasn’t always such a pillar of tolerance. But one woman had an incredible influence on the Dutch capital and its residents. Bet van Beeren was Beeren  was born in 1902 and spent her childhood in the Jordaan district of Amsterdam, before opening her legendary bar ‘t Mandje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk in 1927. Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay, straight, bi or otherwise - could have a drink, provided they behaved themselves. In those days the police could revoke a bar’s license for promoting what we today would call a ‘gay lifestyle’, so Bet kept a close watch on her patrons making sure there weren’t any obvious displays of affection between same-sex couples with perhaps the exception of Queen’s Day (now King’s Day) – a tradition that began after WWII. On this magical day pretty much anything was possible and ‘t Mandje gained a reputation as the ultimate place to celebrate this Dutch holiday. That That said, Bet usually took an interest in her patrons and if she observed anyone misbehaving, she would penalise them by cutting off an article of clothing with a butcher’s knife, knife, hence all of the ties nailed to the ceiling.

As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attractions of her bar and that’s hardly surprising given her appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman who drank like a fish and smoked like chimney, she was also known for her risqué wardrobe, which included a leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gaining the respect of her patrons and neighbours who often called her the Queen o the Zeedijk . When she passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard table of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects to her over the course of two days.  The bar finally closed its doors in 1983, but Bet’s niece, Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help of her husband in 2008. Café ‘t Mandje B-1 B-1,, Zeedijk Zeedij k 63, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.caetmandje.nl. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. 01:00. Closed Close d Mon.  Autumn 2015

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Coffeeshops Whether you smoke the herb or not, coffeeshops in Amsterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose the right one and it’ll be an experience you’ll never forget. Choose the wrong one and you you’ll probably probably forget that you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many different types of coffeeshops, for different kinds of people. Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan monasteries (once you’re stoned) and others like super-modern cafés. And in the summer, many have outside seating, sometimes near the canal. Coffeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long history (Mellow Yellow was the first one in 1973), even during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas, proof enough that the system works (for the ‘evil’ criminal gangs anyway). Given the city’s status as a major shipping hub and its maze of canals, it’s not hard to imagine how drug trafficking in this city was an attractive option. Coffeeshops could easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today, Today, they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic option. After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of coffeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided here. They are selected from across the city, so that you’re never at any point far away from one of these exceptional Dutch institutions institutions..

BITTER... BALLS?  The name bitterballen, or bitter balls, conjures up all kinds of images and not entirely wholesome ideas from sour edibles hardly fit for consumption to a sex toy you might find in the Red Light district. In fact, these deep-fried morsels of God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine and are on offer in nearly every café throughout the country. You’ll see refined people in suits gulping down these breadcrumb encrusted snacks at gallery openings just as often as you see construction workers slowly chewing them with a beer after a day’s work. Why slowly you might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat, parsley, onion, spices and other mystery ingredients is often served at a temperature usually only seen in magma chambers beneath volcanoes. This always creates interesting facial expressions, unusual sucking sounds and the inevitable grasping for any cold liquid available. If you’re too scared to try this national treat, watch our video at www.in www.inyourpocket.com/ yourpocket.com/Netherlands/AmsterNetherlands/Amsterdam/Restaurants. If you do decide to give it a go, then don’t forget to dip it in some tasty Dutch mustard. 30 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditionin conditioning g O Casino

T Child-friendly

U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outside seating

X Smoking section

S Takeaway

W  W  Wifi ifi

COFFEESHOPS Although the Netherlands was once known as a sae haven or people who enjoy the herb, conservative politics and a national law have sent many a oreign toker looking or less turbulent shores to have a joint. Officially the law states that only residents o Holland may buy and smoke sot drugs like marijuana and hash at coffeeshops in the Netherlands. Although initially enorced in other areas o the country (but not now), the wise and commerce driven Amsterdammers have done what they usually do when they don’t like a law. The city and the local police have turned a blind eye to pot smoking earing a catastrophic loss o tourism euros. Basically, what we’re saying is that you can go to any o the ollowing places and smoke to your lungs’ content.

ABRAXAS Down a side-street off one of the main boulevards in Amsterdam Centrum, you’ll find this surprisingly cosy medium-size coffeeshop spread over several narrow floors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate décor, it includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well organised and efficient staff make this an attractive option for a relaxed (but brief) brief ) break while touring the city’s many delights. Longer stays at this coffeeshop will permit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfortable smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg Roele nsteeg 12 - 14, [email protected], www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 01:00. J

AMNESIA  The first fir st thing t hing to be said s aid about abo ut this coffeeshop is that it’s it ’s part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup Awards and therefore should be on the map for any connoisseur. Even if you’re just eager to sit down in pleasant surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the canal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a pleasant décor of purple swirls and gold and black as well as equally pleasant and efficient staff. A choice of games and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coffeeshop is well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this a prime summer coffeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel. (+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Coffeeshops BARNEY’S  This coffeeshop review is more about the three establishments which are part of Barney’s coffeeshop empire and all located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking distance of each other. One venue is a coffeeshop, the other is a bar/ restaurant and the final one is a souvenir shop/bar and smoke-room, meaning that in between these three places, you can smoke drink and eat to your heart’s hear t’s content in an attractive environment with a pleasant décor. Popular particularly with tourists, it provides its customers with arguably one of the best choices in life; get high and eat, get high and drink, or get high and have a coffee. And to get high with a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices to be made here, but once your desires desire s have been met, it is always good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide you with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/ lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropriate).QD-3, Haarlemmerst Haarl emmerstraat raat 105, tel. (+31 (+31) 204 27 94 69, www.barneys.biz. Open 07:30 - 01:00. P

BLUEBIRD Bluebird might seem at first like a small coffeeshop, but the upstairs is substantially larger than the ground floor and the window-walls over the street are very effective in giving the place a light and airy feel, which also provides great people watching opportunities. These windows also provide the best lighting to the extensively intricate artwork covering the inside walls from top to bottom, forcing the eye (stoned or not) to wander endlessly. Games are also on offer like a pinball machine and the crowd is of a local variety with a mix of some tourists as well. The staff is friendly and outdoor roadside seating is available in good weather. The availability of vaporizers make this an ideal location for a trippy experience (along, of course, with the décor).QB-2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 71, tel. (+31) 206 22 52 32, ino@coffeeshopbluebird.nl, www. coffeeshopbluebird.nl. Open 09:30 - 01:00. GBX

EMBRACING THE HAZE When experimenting with soft drugs in Amsterdam one should also bear in mind that there are usually two types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC content and creates a strong stoned or high feeling; and nonhaze which has a somewhat milder effect. The price difference may sometimes be quite substantial between these two types, as haze weed plants (usually strong sativas - for those in the know) are bigger and harder to grow properly than non-haze plants (usually strong indicas). If you’re a non-regular smoker, or even a regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze to get your bearings and then perhaps try a haze joint to see how you feel. For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily consumption), haze weed will show you how truly stoned you can get, but beware as some types may stick you to your chair and you may drool (well, maybe not the second part). Just remember to have fun!

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 The Red Light district is full of coffeeshops

BULLDOG NO. 90 Arguably the first ever coffeeshop in Amsterdam, this establishment combines cannabis history and getting high with an excellent central location. With seating overlooking the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the canal outside, this coffeeshop is an ideal place any time of year. The décor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper articles and the orange (you’ll understand once you get here) tells the story of this venerated establishment, which gives off a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with internet access are available (for a fee) . Finally, the herb purchasing area is seperate from the drinks area. QB-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64, www.thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB

BULLDOG PALACE Fancy going down the police station for a spliff? Well in Amsterdam, you can, although the police station has been transformed into a multi-storey smoking, drinking and dancing venue. It’s a large, spacious place with a pleasant conservatory style smoking area at the front and features two separate downstairs areas: one for weed and one for souvenirs. Upstairs is what can only be described as a dark nightclub with plenty of coloured lights jumping around, but that could have just been the effects of the haze. Alcohol including cocktails is available making it an ideal spot for hanging out and shooting some pool in the evening until the proper clubbing kicks off. Internet stations are also available for downloading that evening’s soundtrack.QF-7, Leidseplein 17 17,, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 27 19 08, www.thebulldog. w ww.thebulldog. com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PEGBXW

COFFEESHOP 36 Its canal view at the back sold us on this place and it’s close to the station which is ideal if you’re in Amsterdam only briefly. This coffeeshop is housed on several different levels, which isn’t exactly an advantage if you’re travelling with wheel-bound suitcases. (We like to get down to business as soon as we arrive). The low lighting, ‘strategically’ placed wrought-iron gates and the metal rock interior will suit some more than others, but the friendly staff and separation of weed and drink sales (rare so close to the station) make it a worthwhile addition to our list. QB-1, Warmoestraat 36, tel. (+31) 206 24 24 93. Open 10:00 - 01:00.  Autumn 2015

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Coffeeshops DOLPHINS You won’t find a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as your guide you can make a selection from the affordable and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The constant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a stool isn’t your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and the friendly staff can ensure all your needs are met down here underwater, although you may have to swim to the surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7 F-7,, Kerkstraat Kerk straat 39, tel. (+31) 207 74 33 36. Open 10:30 - 01:00. GBXW

EASY TIMES

 There’s no shortage of ganja souvenirs in Amsterdam Amsterdam

With a selection of over 40 intoxicating types of weed and hash, Easy Times has no shortage of ways to get your smoke on. If you’d prefer a bong or vaporizer to attain the high you’re looking for then settle down in the Middle Eastern-style lounge in the back. Unlike many coffeeshops that have that run-down, slightly neglected quality about them, this place gets high marks for its stylish interior that one could almost call trendy. A small outdoor terrace right on the Prinsengracht is also available and you can buy funny souvenirs and smoking accessories at the small booth at the entrance.QPrinsengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206 26 57 09, www.easytimesamsterdam.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JNXSW

KATSU Katsu’s laid-back atmosphere and its impressive cannabis selection are just two reasons to head over to the De Pijp neighbourhood. The friendly owner has created an atmosphere where locals, and the occasional tourist, can feel at home while smoking a joint or taking a toke of a bong.  To avoid confusion make sure that the staff weighs your goodies in front of you yo u and skip the potent 0G1 0 G188 weed unun less you’re a very experienced smoker. According to new laws that will be implemented soon, it will be categorised as a hard drug.QH-10, 1e van der Helststraat 70, www. katsu.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 23:0 0. X

GRASSHOPPER  This grand establishment is a one-stop shop for food, drink and smoke. It’s close enough to the station for a one-hour stopover or you could even just grab a beer, a steak and a joint without even leaving the premises. The multiple floors cover each of these aspects and it has a pre-club feel in the evening with private booth tables, colourful lights and bar games like pool. The massive outdoor terrace overlooking the canal is one of the best spots in summer for boat, street and people watching and is, not surprisingly, incredibly popular with tourists.QA-1, Oudebrugsteeg 16, tel. (+31) 206 26 12 59, www.thegrasshopper. nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PJB

GREENHOUSE CENTRUM Part of one of the best coffeeshop chains, this establishment in a busy part of the city centre is quite busy itself and with good reason! The outside seating area next to the canal away from the main drag is an ideal spot for smoking on a sunny day. When the weather does go bad, however, its colourful interior is a pleasure for stoned eyes.  The product sold here is some of the best in the Netherlands, not to mention the most varied, and well worth analysis under a microscope, which is conveniently found at the same counter. The lively atmosphere and large tables may not make it the best place for a relax and a read, but is probably more appropriate for meeting new people and perhaps planning a night out.QB-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 191, tel. (+31) 206 27 17 39, www.greenhouse. org. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JB 32 

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LA TERTULIA Open since 1983, one of the oldest coffeeshops in Amsterdam is also one of the most appealing and original or iginal for smokers and non-smokers alike. Apart from the relatively ordinary weed menu, the environment which the friendly mother and daughter create here, includes extensive detailed artwork on the outside as well as the inside, providing trippy experiences at every corner. The selection of drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and toasties is more extensive than in most coffeeshops in Amsterdam and the many plants, as well as the multiple levels and patio furniture make one feel as if they were picnicking in a garden. The outside seating next to the canal in a quiet area of the city makes for a relaxed break while wandering the beautiful surroundings. Don’t leave without taken at least one bite from their delicious home-made weed brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht 312, 31 2, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 23 85 03, www.coffeesh www.coffeeshopamsterdam. opamsterdam. com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B

LION OF JUDAH �BUSHMAN� Beware! If you can’t relate to the Rastafarian way of life, you may not enjoy this coffeeshop. If, however, you’d like to embrace your inner Marley, Marle y, then by all means pay a visit to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history décor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products on offer here, mon.QB-1 B-1,, Oudezijds Oude zijds Voorburgwal Voorburg wal 47, 47, tel. (+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Coffeeshops MAGIC  This charming North African-s African-style tyle coffeeshop boasts computers with internet access and a pool table, along with other games, as well as large comfortable seating areas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if you decide to spark up, particular ly after the scenic walk to get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may find that this place is more appropriate when not alone. QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open 10:00 - 01:00.

NOON Colourful, detailed décor and comfortable seating make this an ideal coffeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals, chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as the usual smoking paraphernalia. It’s a good stop before a night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22, tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.

OLD CHURCH  This coffeeshop coffee shop is surprisingly hard to find given its position in the centre of Amsterdam, but the giant neon signs on the facade will certainly help. Slightly removed from the main canals and touristy streets, it still provides convenient access to the Red Light District. Its outdoor terraces are a pleasure to experience in the summer, but the odd rustic/Indian theme and the ordinary menus mean that the highlight of this coffeeshop is its outdoor terrace, and that’s about it.QB-2, Oudekerksplein 54, tel. (+31) 204 20 12 64. Open 10:00 - 01:00.

SOLO With one of the walls entirely covered in posters, your eyes may wander while having a toke here, as well as your ears thanks to the chilled music. Best of all, it provides free marshmallows in case you feel light-headed (a common side effect of the herb - well if it’s good anyway), a little peckish or indeed, if you just fancy one.QB-2, Korte Koningsstraat 2, tel. (+31) 204 20 04 28, www. soloamsterdam.nl. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

SUPER SKUNK   The classic classic Indica-domina Indica-dominant nt Skunk Skunk #1 that changed the face face of cannabis culture across the world continues to amaze weed-lovers over a quarter of a century after the release of its powerful ganja. In our opinion Super Skunk also serves the best strawberry haze in Amsterdam. Order up front and then move on to the comfy couches and Arabic style puffs in the back where you can contemplate the controversial portraits of weed smoking Muslim women. In liberal Amsterdam anything goes, but don’t tell ISIS!QF-8, Prinsengracht 480, tel. (+31) 206 38 41 08. JAXSW

SMART & HEAD SHOPS

PARADOX

AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER

Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coffeeshops, but these days only a quarter of these remain, including Paradox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served as a haven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists never set foot in this quiet place, even though it’s more than worth a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by promising young graffiti artists and the best works will make you feel like you’re hallucinating even when you’re not stoned.QD-7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206 23 56 39, www.paradoxcoffeeshop.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JX

Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European country where it’s legal to import cannabis seeds you can ask the knowledgeable staff here everything there is to know about cultivating this amazing plant. Unfortunately, US residents aren’t allowed to bring any seeds home. The shop also sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts made from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to your home country, but due to legal issues most countries outside the EU, including the USA, are excluded from this service.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel. (+31) 207 37 00 60, www. amsterdamseedcenter.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag o 3 seeds €20 - 30. JA

RESIN Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green interior, this coffeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite during a visit to Amsterdam. Reflecting the theme of the famous Red Light District, a keen eye may be able to discern sex swings, but don’t worry. Other seating is available in the form of sofa b enches lining the wall. There are TV screens to catch your gaze and music with an electronic edge drones on in the background.  The staff here aren’t par particula ticularly rly fri friendly, endly, but then again that’s fairly typical of Amsterdam coffeeshops where the stoned customer is rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel. (+31 (+ 31)) 204 22 98 38. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

You can get it in liquid form too!

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Sightseeing  This city of canals has much more to offer beyond debauchery and carousing opportunities. Museums like the Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum are world class and worth their elevated admission fees and long queues, but even a casual stroll through the city will afford any visitor more pictureperfect vistas than most cities could ever dream of.

ESSENTIAL AMSTERDAM RIJKSMUSEUM  This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block and is finally open to the public again after years of renovations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts and of course an incredible collection of the nation’s best old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and Steen. Some of the museum’s most famous paintings are also described in detail in laminated information cards, so you can take your time and discover interesting facts about each of these canvases. Queues can be long at peek times, mostly due to security checks, so plan accordingly.QF-9, Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel. (+31) 206 74 70 47, www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission: adults €1 €17 7.50, under unde r 18 ree.

VAN GOGH MUSEUM Very few tourists leave Amsterdam without visiting this incredible museum. Its vast collection includes roughly 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise most of the works produced by the troubled artist in his short 10-year career. After dabbling in religious vocations and art selling, he finally embarked on his true calling in 1880, which is where the museum’s permanent exhibit begins. Those familiar with only his later works will no doubt be surprised to see the dark greys, browns and blues used in Van Gogh’s earliest still lifes of cabbages and clogs, not to mention some of the subject matter such as a smoking skeleton. The vibrant paintings for which he is now so renowned only appeared later during his time in Paris when he ‘discovered colour’. Although the museum is indeed a shrine to all things Van Gogh, it also displays a varied collection of works by world-famous artists from early mentors like Anton Mauve and Jules Dupré to such icons of Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Pissaro, Gauguin, Renoir, Cézanne and Toulouse-Lautrec from which he drew inspiration. QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. (+31) 205 70 52 00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Open 09:00-18:00, Fri 09:00-22:00. 09:00 -22:00. Admission: adults adult s €17 €17, children 17 and unun der ree. AUKW

THE OLD CHURCH �DE OUDE KERK� Although no one knows for certain, it’s believed that Amsterdam’s oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was erected erecte d at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning of the 14th century. The important edifice wasn’t only used for religious purposes and often served as a safe for precious documents, a treasury and also a homeless shelter. It was also the place where couples had to register their intentions to marry as Rembrandt and his bride Saskia did in 1638. She’s buried on the far end of the building opposite the entrance. The historic monument and its wooden ceiling were on the verge of collapse in the 20th century and it was finally closed in 1951 for lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was again opened to the public and is now one of the city’s most visited attractions.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.oudekerk.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Sun 13:00-17:30. Admission: adults €7.50, children 12 and under ree.

 AMSTERDAM ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS EROTIC MUSEUM AMSTERDAM If you’re already exploring Europe’s number one Red Light district then you might as well visit this interesting museum that’s not nearly as tacky as it seems. Inside you can view ancient Chinese artefacts depicting sex acts, lusty gods and goddesses getting busy on Greek pottery and horny lovers on old Japanese silk paintings. You’ll no doubt also be as shocked as we were to encounter Le Pulsoconn - a mechanical vibrator from the 1880s that no one in their right mind would want to use anywhere near their genitals. Erotic cartoons of Snow White getting to know her dwarfs intimately and old pornography are also on offer.QB-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54, www. erotisch-museum.nl. Open 11:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 11:0002:00. Admission: €7 €7..

THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM  This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands’ most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum of 13,000 guilders at a time when a day labourer was content to make 300 guilders in a year. Unfortunately, scandal and disgrace made him unpopular and work became scarce. He was unable to cover the loan and went bankrupt in 1656. An audio guide will take you through the house, which is reconstructed to look exactly as it did when Rembrandt was at the peak of his career. View the foyer where he exhibited his work, his living quarters, the attic where his apprentices worked, his curiosity room and of course his studio.QG/H-5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 20 04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission: adults €12.50, children 6 - 17 years €4, child ren 5 and under ree. A 34 

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Interior of the Old Church

amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM Back in 1777 when Marie Tussaud created her first wax figure of Voltaire, very few would have guessed that ma jor citie citiess around ar ound the globe would have their own muse muse-ums named after the venerable woman. In 1836 at the tender age of 74, she opened her first locat ion in London proving that people have always been fascinated with celebrities and that the present obsession with Hollywood stars and pop musicians isn’t just a fad. Queues at the Amsterdam Tussauds can be a bit long at lunchtime, but that’s because everyone is photographed before taking the lift upstairs where you’ll be entertained by a light and sound show dedicated to the Golden Age of the city in the 17th century. This is followed by a maze of rooms featuring life size wax figures of your favourite heads of state, actors, rock gods, artists and footballers. Have your photo taken with the Dalai Lama, Gandhi, Madonna, Pablo Picasso or Winston Churchill. You’ll no doubt also be blown away by what a tiny pip-squeak Lenin was or that Ronaldinho’s teeth really are that big!QA-2, Dam 20, tel. (+31) 205 22 10 10, www.madametussauds.com. Open 10:00-1 10:00 -18:30. 8:30. Admission: adults €19 - 22, children 5 - 15 years €14 - 18, children 4 and under ree. Last admission at 17:30. AU

RED LIGHT SECRETS Red Light Secrets is the latest attraction in Amsterdam’s Red Light district and it has correspondingly long opening hours for late night window shoppers. In short, it’s essentially a museum dedicated to that oldest of professions - prostitution - and is supposedly the only one of it’s kind on the planet. A visit begins with a six-minute movie, with a simple, yet intriguing theme, namely namel y 24 hours in the Red Light district. The next hour or so can be spent checking out typical rooms where the trade was plied as well as special S&M tools and lots of other interesting items and information. The undisputed highlight of the exhibition is the moment when you’re allowed to sit behind one of the red-lit windows to see how outsiders look at you. Unfortunately, no souvenir shop is available, so you’ll have to find a sexy gift gif t at one of the shops in the area.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 60H, www.redlightsecrets.com. Open 12:00 12 :00-2 -24:00. 4:00. Admission: €7.50. JN

WORLD OF AJAX TOURS �AMSTERDAM ARENA�  Thi s is the nex t bes  This bestt thi thing ng to se seeing eing an ac actua tuall Aja Ajaxx match. Even if you’re not a fan, it’s still a brilliant feeling to set foot in the ArenA, even when it’s empty. At full capacity, 53,052 supporters sing, scream and yell from their brightly coloured seats. Abou t an hour later you’re back where you started, and the tour predictably ends at the club shop where you can express your newly acquired love for Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white souvenirs.QU-1, ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13 36. Open 11:00 - 16:30 (except on event days). Admission: adults €14.50, children 5 - 12 years €9.50. Take metro line 54 rom the Central Station to the Amsterdam Bijlmer Are na stop and then ollow signs to Main Entrance E. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

Meet the Dalai Lama and Gandhi at Madame Toussauds Toussauds

BREWERY & DISTILLERY TOURS BROUWERIJ DE PRAEL  This small microbrewery was originally supposed to be called De Parel (the Pearl), but it turned out that someone already had the rights to that name so they just changed a couple of letters around and De Prael was born. You can take a tour of the small premises in the Red Light district and learn about the brewing process pro cess followed by a beer in its new tasting room which has a view of all the brewing action. The owners also contribute to society by employing people who have a tough time finding work elsewhere and you can see them hard at work in the cellar where one fills the bottles, another puts the cap on and a third person attaches the labels. The brewery makes about eight different beers and you can buy all kinds of De Prael merchandise in its shop.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 30, tel. (+31 (+ 31)) 204 08 44 70, www.deprael.nl w ww.deprael.nl.. Open 09:00 09:00-1 -17:00. 7:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

BROUWERIJ ‘T IJ If you’re feeling a little parched on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday afternoon, then take a tram to the Plantage for a microbrewery tour, a few beers and some snacks in the shadow of one of the city’s few remaining windmills. As the afternoon wears on, the voices of Dutch speakers gradually get drowned out by the din of tourists and foreign beer enthusiasts who have come to this iconic building next to the historic De Gooyer windmill to take advantage of the brew tour that’s held here in English every Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 15:30 (16:00 in Dutch). Tickets, which are actually plastic tokens good for a tour and a beer, cost €4.50, but bear in mind that it’s best to get here early to sample at least one brew before you learn about how the amber nectar is made. What could be more Amsterdam than sipping a locally produced beer with a sausage and cheese plate next to a giant windmill only a short tram ride from touristy Leidseplein? Take tram No.10 toward Azartplein from Leidseplein, get off at the Hoogte Kadijk stop and turn right.QK-5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 206 22 83 25, www. brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00-20:00.  Autumn 2015

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Sightseeing HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE

TUSCHINSKI THEATRE

Although this tasty brew, which is distributed in over 170 countries around the globe isn’t produced on the premises, you can take a tour and learn about the company’s evolution from its founding in 1864 in Amsterdam to its current status as a multinational brand. You’ll reach the climax of the tour where you can enjoy two cold beers with dozens of other Heineken fans. Exit the experience via the Heineken shop where you can get pretty much anything with the Heineken logo on it. QG-9, Stadhouderskade 78, tel. (+31) (+31) 205 23 92 22, www.heineken.com/ experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30 (last tour at 17:30). Admission: €16 - 18, children €12.50, under 12 ree. AU

 This ornate building, which incorporates incorpor ates Art Nouveau, Art Ar t Deco and Amsterdam School architecture, was created by Abraham Tuschinski (1886 - 1942), a Polish Jew who settled in the Netherlands in the early 1900s instead of immigrating to the United States, State s, which was his original plan. He became a successful cinema operator in Rotterdam, before turning his attention to a forlorn part of Amsterdam where he erected his dream theatre. Unfortunately,  Tuschinski  Tuschin ski became of a victim of the Holocaust and died at Auschwitz in 1942, but the incredible building he erected is still one of Amsterdam’s most popular cinemas.QG-6, Reguliersbreestraat 26 - 28, tel. (+31) 90 02 35 72 84, www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/tuschinski.

HOUSE OF BOLS EXPERIENCE Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one the world’s oldest spirits makers, not to mention one of the oldest firms on record. Its renowned jenever recipe dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the British roughly 25 years later where it was modified to English tastes and produced locally as gin. The award- winning Genever Experience showcases the roughly 40 liqueurs it sells in 110 countries around the world as well as the wide varieties of jenevers it produces.QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel. (+31) 205 70 85 75, www.houseobols.nl. Open 12:00 - 17:30, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Admission: €14.50. A

BUILDINGS THE MINT TOWER �MUNTTOREN�  The Mint Tower is one of the city city’s ’s most visible landmarks landmark s and anyone who has visited the Flower Market or done some shopping on the Kalverstraat has definitely noticed this unique bell tower with a clock on each of it s four sides. Originally a gate called the Regulierspoort that was part of Amsterdam’s fortified city wall, it was destroyed during a fire in 1618, but rebuilt two years later in Amsterdam Renaissance style by the eminent Dutch Golden Age architect Hendrick de Keyser, who also built the Westerkerk and Zuiderkerk among other famous edifices scattered about the city. cit y. It gained its name in the 17th 17th century when the French occupied parts of the Netherlands forcing the Dutch to move their coin minting operations to this location.QB-3, Muntplein.

CANAL TOURS AMSTERDAM CANAL CRUISES  This company has been giving tours of the Amsterdam canals for over 40 years. Its six boats depart from the landing opposite the Heineken Experience..QG-8, Stadhouderskade 550, tel. (+31) 206 26 56 36, www. amsterdamcanalcruises.nl.

CANAL BUS Canal bus offers a huge network of comfortable canal boats that take passengers on three different routes with more than 20 stops. The boats pass by the city’s main attractions and museums, which is why you can buy a day-pass or a 48-hour ticket so you can hop on and off  and see all of the sights that interest you. Stops include the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum as well as the Anne Frank House and the Hermitage among other destinations. Canal bus also offers night cruises and theme cruises with dinner, candlelight and cocktails.QE-5, Stadhouderskade (opposite Rijksmuseum, tel. (+31) 202 17 05 00, www.canal.nl. A

GRAY LINE Make sure you’re at the right landing as the multinational Gray Line has three different departure points.QA-1, Damrak Pier 5, tel. (+31) 205 35 33 08, www.grayline. com. Open 10:00-20:00. Tickets: €13 - 22. TJA

CHURCHES NOORDERKERK 

Copper vats at the Heineken Experience

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As the population of the new Jordaan neighbourhood began to explode in the 17th century, the city decided to build a new church for its lower class protestant residents. Hendrick de Keyser, the illustrious designer of the nearby Westerkerk, was tasked to create the building and it was finally completed in1623 in all its odd octagonal glory. Inside the black gravestones that pave the floor have been polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic from its devoted parishioners. The massive pipe organ is also a sight to see.QE-4, Noordermarkt 48, tel. (+31) 206 26 64 36, www.noorderkerk.org. Open Mon 10:30-12:30, Sat 11:00-13:00, Sun 13:30-17:30. Closed Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ST. FRANCIS FRANCIS XAVIER CHURCH �DE KRIJTBERG� K RIJTBERG�  This Jesuit J esuit church near the Flower Market Mar ket began its existence in the 17th century as a clandestine house of worship hidden behind the façade of a typical canal house. Catholics were persecuted at the time and had to gather in secret so it was given the code name of ‘de Krijtberg’ or Chalk Mountain, because the owner of the house was a merchant who had dealings with England known throughout Holland by its white chalk cliffs of Dover. The current neo-Gothic structure was erected between 1880 and 1883 replacing the previous medieval building, which explains why it is so incredibly narrow. It is perhaps best known for its impressive collection of stained glass. The more vibrant panes were added in 1930, while the more faded examples are original.QF-6, Singel 448, tel. (+31) 206 23 19 23, www.krijtberg.nl. Open 13:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Fri.

THE PARROT: CHURCH OF STS. PETER AND PAUL �DE PAPEGAAI� In stark contrast to the non-stop racket heard from shoppers outside on the tireless Kalverstraat, this well-hidden church is a small oasis of peace and quiet. Its clandestine appearance is intentional as it was one of several underground Catholic churches that had to conceal their existence from Protestant persecution, hence its code name – the Parrot. It is typically narrow, like most Amsterdam buildings, which is the reason for the extensive seating galleries overlooking the main hall from above. Although its interior isn’t as grand as other Catholic churches in the area, it’s a quiet escape from the hordes of people stuffing their faces at McDonald’s across the street. Just look for the tile mosaic to find the entrance.QA-3, Kalverstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18 89, www.nicolaas-parochie.nl. Open 10:00-16 10:00-16:00, :00, Sun 09:45-13:30. 09:45-13:30.

WESTERKERK  One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it still tends to its Protestant flock to this day. Its Dutch Renaissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower embellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian soars to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished painter Rembrandt was buried bur ied here in 1669, but no one is quite sure sure exactly where, yet a plaque marks the approximate spot not far from his son Titus’ grave. Anyone familiar with the story of Anne Frank also knows that she often heard the bells from the church in her hidden annex only a short distance away. The tower bell is the largest in the Netherlands and weighs in at an impressive 7,500kg. Although the church is also used as a concert hall, it’s closed to visitors during the winter months. The Westermarkt square outside is a popular meeting place where you can relax on benches that look like lounge chairs, eat some raw herring from one of the food stalls or take a look lo ok at its monuments - a statue statu e of Anne Frank and three triangular pink granite slabs dedicated to persecuted gays near and far.QE-5, Prinsengracht 281, www.westerkerk.nl. Open April - October 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tower admission: €6 - 8. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

 The soaring bell tower of the Westerkerk Westerkerk

JEWISH AMSTERDAM JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM �JOODS HISTO� RISCH MUSEUM�  This extensive museum dedicated to Amsterdam Jewish life opened in 1987 and is spread out over what used to be four different synagogues. Begin your journey in the oldest building erected in 1671, which was abandoned for nearly 30 years after WWII until it was finally restored to its former glory. This section of the museum chronicles the earliest years of Jewish settlement in Amsterdam and you can view an impressive array of religious items, holy texts and ancient books as well as a giant silver menorah nearly 2m tall! On the second floor, which was originally used by the female congregation, you can view paintings by famous Jewish artists such as Josef Israels. The attempted destruction of Jewish life during the Holocaust is also featured here with displays of objects such as ‘money boxes’, which were were left lef t by Jews to their gentile neighbour s for safekeeping. The ticket price includes admission to the other three nearby Jewish institutions.QH-6, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.jhm.nl. Open 11:00-17:00. Admission: adults €12, children 13 17 €6, children childre n 6 - 12 €3, under 6 ree. r ee. HAUKW

PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE Most European capitals were hardly an ideal place for Jews to call home in medieval times, but no city was more tolerant of this ethnic group than Amsterdam in the 17thcentury. As the city prospered, its population grew by leaps and bounds and among its many new arrivals were Jews from around the continent looking for a better life.  They completed work on this synagogue in 1675 1675 and since then it has served as a centre for Jewish life in Amsterdam housing also offices, archives, ritual baths and a rabbinate.  The synagogue synag ogue was completely restored in 2011 2011 and now its treasure rooms which house unique ceremonial objects are open to the public as well as Ets Haim, the oldest functioning Jewish library librar y in the world dating to 1616. 1616. The ticket price includes admission to the Jewish Historical Museum nearby.QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 3, tel. (+31) 205 31 03 10, www.portugesesynagoge.nl. Open 10:00-17:00, Fri 10:00-16:00. 10:00-16 :00. Closed Close d Sat. Admission: adults adul ts €12, €12, children 13 - 17 17 €6, children 6 - 12 €3, under 6 ree. re e. HAU  Autumn 2015

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Sightseeing AMSTERDAM MUSEUM Although there are many cities in Europe and the Netherlands with histories stretching much farther into the past, Amsterdam’s story is unique and unusual and worth discovering at this fascinating and eclectic museum. Follow the development of this powerful port through medieval artefacts and art from ancient shoes dating back to the 14th century and the oldest known map of the city. You can also learn about the urban development of the city from its bold plans to dig canals to 20th-century modernisation projects as well as lots of fun exhibits that highlight popular culture like films about the Ajax football club and a model of Holland’s (and perhaps the world’s) first gay and lesbian bar, ‘t Mandje.QE-5, Prinsengracht 116, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 95, www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults €4, children ree.

AMSTERDAM TULIP MUSEUM

MUSEUMS ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM  The archaeological museum of the University of Amsterdam has an excellent collection of rare artefacts from the ancient world of the Near East and the Mediterranean region from 4000 BC to 500 AD. Objects from Egypt include wooden sarcophagi, Coptic art, funerary statues and pottery, not to mention a room dedicated to mummies and the embalming process. Upstairs you’ll find exhibits dedicated to ancient Greece, Persia and Mesopotamia as well as the Romans and Etruscans. QA-3, Oude Turmarkt 127, tel. (+31) 205 25 25 56, www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults €6.50, children 4 - 16 €3.25, children 3 and under ree. A

Scale model of the city’s canals at Het Grachtenhuis

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Walk into this flower and gift shop near the Anne Frank House and learn about the fascinating history of the tulip from its humble origins along the Silk Road of Central Asia to its current status as a somewhat common, massproduced flower that is still a cornerstone of the Dutch economy and a symbol of national identity for the people of the Netherlands. Discover how the word tulip was derived from a simple misunderstanding and how the plant was smuggled to Europe from the Turkish sultan’s royal court in 1555. Learn how tulips made their journey to the Netherlands in 1598 where they were cultivated and eventually fetched prices on par with Amsterdam canal houses before the bubble burst ruining many a flower merchant. The evolution of modern tulip farming is also on display. Although the museum isn’t very big and is essentially a small exhibit in a shop cellar, it isn’t expensive and its owner, who also sells bulbs upstairs, is passionate about the tulip and provides a much-needed history of one of the nation’s most profitable commodities.QE-5, Prinsengracht 116, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 95, www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com. Open 10:00 18:00. Admission: adults €4, children ree.

ANNE FRANK HOUSE �ANNE FRANK HUIS�  There are very few people who aren’t acquainted with the tragic story of Anne Frank – a brave girl who dreamed of becoming an author while in hiding from Nazi persecution. The diary of her time spent in the secret annex was published in 1947 and later translated in over 65 languages. The popularity of her work is reflected in the huge queues outside out side this museum that has been teaching Amsterdam’s visitor’s about the Holocaust, the story of the Frank family and their desperate struggle to survive and the evils of anti-Semitism and racism since 1960. Inside you’ll walk through the warehouse where workers attended to their business every day completely unaware that several people were hiding upstairs.QE-5, Prinsengracht 263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.annerank.org. Open 09:00 09:0 0 - 21:00, 21:00, Sat 09:00 09:0 0 - 22:00. Admission: adults €9, children 10 - 17 17 years €4.50, children c hildren nine and under u nder ree. AKW amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing COSTER DIAMONDS Coster Diamonds is one of the oldest diamond factories in the world and its professional craftsmen have been cutting and polishing expensive jewels since Moses Coster opened his first shop on Waterlooplein in 1840. Today you can take a free tour of the factory, which moved to its current location in three mansions in the Museum district in 1970. You can learn nearly everything about diamonds here in a variety of languages and discover helpful tips about how the four Cs (carat, colour, clarity and cut) influence the price of each gem. You can also watch men practicing their trade, learn how to spot fake diamonds and view replicas of famous gems such as the Koh-I-Noor which was re-cut by Coster at the request of Queen Victoria. After a brief tour you’ll be led upstairs to a diamond showroom where the owners hope you’ll be tempted to buy a diamond diam ond of your own. At the end of a labyrinth of more shops you’ll reach the Amsterdam Diamond Museum which charges admission, but you can also  just exit the building building if you’ve you’ve had enough sparkling carbon for one day.QF-1 F-10, 0, Paulus Potterstr Potterstraat aat 2 - 6, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 203 05 55 55, www.costerdiamonds.com. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission: ree.

DIAMANT MUSEUM AMSTERDAM Start your tour of the museum with a film that illustrates how diamonds are formed and the science behind the process, how the first diamonds were discovered on the banks of Indian rivers thousands of years ago and how Europeans began to covet them and create some of the largest mining operations in the world. Move on to the exhibits that describe the polishing and cutting process, displays of replicas of famous jewels and explanations of the illegal trade in blood diamonds. You can also take a digital photo of yourself wearing a diamond encrusted crown which you can e-mail to friends and finish with the museum’s most prized possession posse ssion - the Coster Skull, which is an odd and truly bizarre gorilla skull covered in 17,000 small diamonds. A museum shop and café are also available.QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel. (+31) 203 05 53 00, www.diam w ww.diamantmuseu antmuseumamsterda mamsterdam.nl. m.nl. Open 09:0017:00. Admission: adults adul ts €7.50, children 13 - 18 years €5, children 12 and under ree. A

FOAM: PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM AMSTERDAM �FOTOGRAPHIEMUSEUM AMSTERDAM�  This classic Amsterdam canal house on the t he Keizersgracht is home to the FOAM museum, which is actually more of photography exhibition hall for both famous names and newcomers. Although modernised and upgraded to serve its purpose of displaying cutting edge photographs, many of the building’s original elements, like the marble floors, have been preserved for posterity. Exhibitions change quite frequently so check its website for the latest information. A great shop selling truly interesting photography books and FOAM’s own magazine is also available on the ground floor.QG-7, Keizersgracht 609, tel. (+31) 205 51 65 00, www.oam.org. Open 10:00-18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00-21:00. Admission: adults €8.75, students €6, children under 12 ree. W facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM Russia’s most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Amsterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for poverty-stricken elderly women. The Hermitage is currently hosting an exhibition entitled  Alexander, Napoleon &  Joséphine, a Story Story of Friendship, War War and Art from the Hermitage that will be on display until November 8, 2015. Napoleon’s death mask will also be on display.QH-6 H-6,, Amstel 51, 51, tel. (+31) 205 30 74 88, www.hermitage.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults €15, children 17 and under ree. AU

HET GRACHTENHUIS  This museum is dedicated to the evolution of Amsterdam’s famous canal belt. Although the city offers other Golden Age museums that display renovated 17th-century interiors, Het Grachtenhuis focuses on the development of the city during its most prosperous era with a variety of modern multimedia experiences and films on the top floors of the building, while still showing off its antique grandeur of marble foyers, period furniture and paintings by illustrious Dutch artists. Watch the Beatles taking a tour of the city, peer into a dollhouse or just admire the décor of a protected monument designed by one of the Netherlands’ best ever architects.QF-7 F-7,, Herengracht Herengr acht 386, www. w ww. hetgrachtenhuis.nl. Open O pen 10:00-17:00. 10:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults €12, children 6 - 18 years €6 (tickets are cheaper i bought online). A  Autumn 2015

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Sightseeing MUSEUM OF BAGS AND PURSES �TASSEN MU� SEUM HENDRIKJE�

ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM �KONINKLIJK ROYAL PALEIS AMSTERDAM�

What began as Hendrikje Ivo’s obsession with purses blossomed into the world’s largest collection of handbags and purses with over 4,000 exhibits spanning 500 years. Located in a prestigious 17th-century home that once belonged to the then mayor of Amsterdam, the museum begins on the top floor where you can view satchels, boxes and letter cases from the 16th - 19th centuries made from every material imaginable. 20th-century exhibits include funky Art Deco purses as well as bags made from exotic animals, even armadillos. A large collection of famous designer bags is also on display including labels like Louis Vuitton and Dior. Naturally, no purse museum would be complete without a shop where you can buy bags to remember your visit. A café with a Dutch Golden Age interior is also available and the entire building is wheelchair accessible. QH-7, Herengracht 573, tel. (+31) 205 24 64 52, www. museumobagsandpurses.com. Open 10:00-17:00. Admission: adults €9,50, children under 12 ree. AK

It’s hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the building was first opened to the public as the Town Hall in 1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdinand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal residence in 1808 when he briefly served as the King of Holland, but it later became the possession of the House of Orange. After meandering through a few dull corridors you’ll finally walk upstairs to the main hall where your jaw is guaranteed to drop. Seldom have we seen so much polished marble in one place, not to mention six giant crystal chandeliers hanging from the timber ceiling covered in frescos high above the inlaid maps and nautical and astronomical charts in the floor. The audio guide, which is included in the price, is essential as none of the rooms have explanations in any language. A short movie with English subtitles is available before you take the tour.QA-2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40 60, www.paleisamsterdam.nl. Open 10:00-17:00. Admission: adults €10, children under 18 ree.

MUSEUM OF THE TROPICS �TROPENMUSEUM� �TROPENM USEUM� Housed in a monumental building that is also home to the Royal Tropical Institute, this museum is a must for stu dents of anthropology and ethnography and anyone who appreciates non-Western cultures. Unlike many museums that are simply a catalogue of artefacts from ancient times and extinct civilisations, the Tropics Museum not only offers examples of antique art, but also household items and objects used in the daily lives of vibrant, living cultures throughout the tropical regions of the world from Indian Bollywood posters to African ads for hair salons. A cafeteria serving food and drink from the regions covered in the museum including South East Asian beer like Singha and Chang is also available as well as a museum shop selling interesting gifts.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31) 205 68 82 00, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Open 10:00-17:00. Admission: adults €9, children 6 - 17 years €5, children 5 and under ree. AK

NATIONAL MARITIME NATIONAL MARITIM E MUSEUM AMSTERDAM �NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM AM� STERDAM� In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the wealthiest and most important nations in the world and this was in large part due to its maritime prowess. No other country in the world had as many ships sailing the seas of the globe as Holland. After thorough renovations, the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates how the sea has defined Dutch culture. Stimulating, interactive exhibits bring 500 years of maritime history to life. The significance of this industry in the modern age is also explained in a clear and concise manner. Children will also love the museum, especially the replica of the famous VOC (Dutch East India Company) ship.QI-4, Kattenburgerplein 1, tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, ax (+31) 205 23 22 13, in[email protected], www. hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open 09:00-17:00. Admission: €15, €15, children childre n 5 and over €7.50. TJAL 40 

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SCIENCE CENTER NEMO Look for the big green building jutting out into the water to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you were a kid again. The sounds of children’s laughter and unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels where visitors can learn about science without the boring textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhibition Shapes  allows you to create new shapes entitled World of Shapes allows from triangles and squares and children can tower above their parents in the Ames room. You can also bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or purchase food at the museum. A good museum museu m shop is also available where you can buy science experiments and other great souvenirs for kids.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, in[email protected], www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00-17:30. Admission: €15, children under our ree. AK

Children love to learn at Science Center NEMO

DigiDaan

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Sightseeing

STEDELIJK MUSEUM  The Netherlands’ most importa important nt museum for modern and contemporary art was in a coma for an unexpected eight years, but is now open to the public. The entrance has moved from the street to the park side, which means that the cultural living room of Amsterdam now has its own chill-out and meeting area outside. The interior of the old and new buildings have been completely integrated, so you’ll hardly notice where the 100-year-old 100-year-o ld edifice ends and the modern one begins.QF-10, Museumplein 10, tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11, www.stedelijk.nl. Open 10:0018:00, Thu 10:00-22:00. Admission: adults €15 - 20, 17 and under ree. AK

VAN LOON MUSEUM �MUSEUM VAN LOON�  This magnificent mag nificent building owned by the Van Loon family trust has a rich and storied stor ied history and is one of the few rere maining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt apprentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671 but passed on to different owners over the centuries until it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the Dutch East India Company. View 17th-century portraits, period furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular wall murals and a spacious manicured garden all in the centre of Amsterdam. QG-7, Keizersgracht 672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.museumvanloon.nl. Open 10:0017:00. Admission: adults €9, children €5, children child ren under 6 ree. TJABW facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

PARKS & GARDENS HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS �HORTUS BO� TANICUS AMSTERDAM� Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists, botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only a little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000 species of plants from around the globe throughout its gardens and greenhouses, nearly all of which are open to the public. It specialises in cycads, or palm trees, the oldest of which was brought to the Netherlands on a V.O.C. ship centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856. You can wander around the grounds and view beautiful flowers, carnivorous florae, a rare Australian pine thought extinct until 1994 and even a redwood tree, which, if allowed to grow on its own, might just change the city’s skyline in a few generations. You can also walk through the tropical and desert greenhouses, but don’t miss the butterfly butter fly house. You can also buy plants at its shop or have have lunch at its café that hosts live jazz on Sundays in summer. QH-5, Plantage Middenlaan 2a, 2a , tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 25 90 21, www.dehortus.nl. Open 10:00-17:00. Admission: adults €8.50, children 5 - 14 years €4.50, children 4 and under ree. HEK

youtube.com/inyourpocket  Autumn 2015

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Sightseeing WERTHEIM PARK   This small patch of green opposite the Hortus Botanical Gardens offers plenty of benches and views of the nearby canal that marks one of its boundaries. One shady corner is also the unlikely resting place for the ashes of Dutch victims of the Holocaust covered by blue glass, which is deliberately fractured to represent the symbolic cracks in the peaceful sky that was forced to watch the atrocities committed on the ground below. You can’t miss the park, as it is guarded by two large sphinxes at the gate.QI-5, Between Nieuwe Herengracht, Plantage Parklaan & Plantage Middenlaan. Open 07:00-21:00.

WESTERPARK  If you keep following the popular Haarlemmerdijk shopping street in the Jordaan past the Haarlemmerplein you’ll eventually run into Westerpark, Westerpark , which is flanked by a canal on one side and train tracks and housing estates on the other. On one end you’ll find a water feature, a children’s playground and lots of walking and bike paths, while the far side is a vast open space popular with picnickers and kids honing their football skills. Just beyond the park is the Westergafabriek, a former industrial zone that has been reclaimed by cafés, clubs and galleries.QC-4, Between Haarlemmerweg and Zaanstraat.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Colourfully painted wooden shutters on the Brouwersgracht

BREWERS’ CANAL �BROUWERSGRACHT� Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque canals, this beautiful waterway is one of the city’s prettiest and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such as the Golden Bend. The Brewers’ Canal began its existence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up shop on the canal. Unlike the busy bus y canals in the centre, the atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF-8, Between the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht.

ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo in the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of fauna and 200 species of flora. The sprawling park not only offers a huge collection of exotic animals from near and far, but also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology museum. Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo live outdoors so you can see camels lounging in the sand or Japanese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants, buffalo and giraffes in their enclosures or head over to the top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant tortoises and crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in the Insect House. You can also view nocturnal creatures in the Jungle by Night exhibit, chimpanzees in the monkey house and strange forms of life from the planet’s oceans in the aquarium.QI-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel. tel . (+31 (+31)) 90 02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission: adults €18.95, €18.9 5, children 3 - 9 years €1 €15.50. 5.50. AK

Art and animals at the Artis Royal Zoo

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DAPPERSTRAAT MARKET �DAPPERMARKT�  This neighbourhood neighbour hood market ma rket in Amsterdam East E ast has been bringing a diverse community together since 1910. One of the oldest markets in the city, the Dappermarkt offers hundreds of street stalls run by a wide variety of merchants speaking languages from around the globe, from Morocco and Turkey to Suriname. Although not exactly the place to find that ideal kitschy souvenir, this authentic marketplace sells all manner of household goods, cheap clothing, second-hand fashion, fresh produce and local specialities like smoked fish and traditional herring. It was also voted the best market in the Netherlands in 2006 and 2007.QK-6, Dapperstraat, www.dappermarkt.nl. Open 10:00-16:30. 10:00-16 :30. Closed Sun. Su n.

DURGERDAM After about half an hour of cycling through Noord, your pedalling will be rewarded by the sight of one of the most beautiful villages in the region. Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet on the shores of the IJsselmeer, where you can view some traditional wooden houses, a Protestant church dating from 1687 and a landscape of wetlands and polders. Another attraction is Durgerdam’s marina, where you can gaze at luxurious yachts and envy the people entering the private sailing club. Historically, the village was closely linked with the former Zuiderzee (now IJsselmeer) and for centuries the Durgerdammers worked in shipping, fishing and trade in general. Today, it’s the quiet and the beauty of the water that attracts visitors to this lovely little settlement.QN-5, Durgerdam.. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing EYE FILM INSTITUTE EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects and displays film-related ephemera like photographs, posters, soundtracks, equipment and directors’ archives. It’s collection spans the entire length of film history from silent films to the newest digital productions. Every year the collection expands as more films, Dutch and foreign, new and old, are added. adde d. Called the ‘hear t of film’, film’, the huge white spaces covering over 1200m2 provide numerous interactive and educational film projects, while four theatres - each different in size and theme - bring you the latest art-house films and old classics. Many people take the free ferry here for the gorgeous view from its café and outdoor terraces. QIJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 00, www. eyefilm.nl. Open 09:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:15.

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STATUES & MONUMENTS NATIONAL MONUMENT �NATIONAAL �NATIONAAL MONU� MO NU� MENT� It’s hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square that’s often occupied by people of all ages and nationalities sunning themselves, reading books or just relaxing. The brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P. Oud (1890 - 1963), 1963), the National Monument made of white travertine was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all Dutch men and women who suffered under the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands and to the nation’s liberation. A number of statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance expressed by all members of society from labourers to the intelligentsia and the lions on either side represent the Dutch nation. The giant pillar rises to a height of 22m. QA-2, Dam.

FLOWER MARKET �BLOEMENMARKT�  The Flower Market is a tourist attraction attra ction and a functioning funct ioning market in one. Although it’s often called the world’s only floating flower market, most of the browsing takes place on dry land as the stalls are located on barges moored on the Singel and although it’s quite attractive when walking past, it’s actually a bit of an eyesore when viewed from the other side of the canal. You can buy bulbs and seeds for all kinds of plants and flowers and the sellers will also send bulbs to your home address abroad. Locals also buy flowers here so the prices are actually quite reasonable. There are plenty of cafés and souvenir shops opposite the market.QA/B-3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open 09:00-17:30, Sun 11:00-17:30. A

REMBRANDT STA STATUE TUE Rembrandt van Rijn (1606 - 1669) is considered to be one of the greatest painters in Dutch history and King William III had the honour of unveiling Amsterdam’s oldest statue in 1852. But that’s not the end of the story. Over the next decade at least 10 more statues will be erected along the route that the illustrious painter used to walk from his house in Amsterdam to to the outskirts of the city where he searched for inspiration. Each statue will represent a certain period perio d of his life. A young Rembrandt, opposite the Amstel Hotel, is the first of these new statues. Statues of Rembrandt can also be found at molen at Amstel at the end of Amstelpark and Professor Tulpplein.QB-3, Rembrandtplein.

WATERLOOPLEIN Located in the heart of what used to be Amsterdam’s thriving Jewish Quarter, this square is now better known for its flea market where you can search for vintage and secondhand clothes, a wide variety of antiques, old vinyl records and lots of other hip and retro curiosities in the shadow of the imposing Moses and Aaron Church next door. The city’s best Jewish attractions like the Portuguese Synagogue and the Jewish Historical Museum are also only a stone’s throw away, not to mention the underground Tun Fun children’s play park.QH-6/7, Waterlooplein.

THE DOCKWORKER �DE DOKWERKER�  The statue of a port portly ly dockworker located next to the Portuguese Synagogue was unveiled by Queen Juliana of Netherlands in 1952 as a tribute to the brave populatio n of Amsterdam that participated in a general strike on February 25, 1941. The strike, which paralysed the city, was organised in response to the anti-Semitic policies of the Nazi occupation forces that began sending Jews to the concentration camp at Mauthausen. The strike was eventually quashed by the Germans, but it sent a powerful message to the Nazis that the Dutch weren’t ready to give up their sovereignty, nor their tolerant beliefs.QH-6, Jonas Daniel Meijerplein.

THE LITTLE DARLING �HET LIEVERDJE�

Find the perfect souvenir at the Flower Market

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At the centre of the Spui, a small square surrounded by some excellent beer bars and bookshops, is a stylised brass statue of a boy with a naughty smile that hints that he’s up to no good. The Little Darling, Dear or Sweetheart is the Dutch version of Dennis the Menace, Calvin (of Calvin and Hobbes), Max and Moritz and countless other fictional depictions of mischievous boys popular in all cultures. Erected on the Square in 1960 with funds provided by a tobacco company, the statue became a rallying point for the Provos, a counter-culture movement that protested against pretty much all of the successes and failures of the 1950s.QSpui.  Autumn 2015

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Shopping Amsterdam has it all as far as shopping is concerned from the big brands to hip little boutiques. A recent survey of the Best Cities to Shop in Europe, placed Amsterdam in a resepectable 8th place. For standard international fashion like H&M and Footlocker take a stroll down the pedestrian Kalverstraat. If you can afford such names as Vuitton, Bulgari and Chanel then drive your Ferrari over to P.C. Hooftsraat in the Museum Quarter. Quar ter. Antique lovers will find a whole street lined with shops selling old maps, books, Delft tiles, furniture and art at Nieuwe Spiegelstraat leading up to the Rijksmuseum and shoppers who prefer small, yet trendy boutiques, family-run delicatessens and a generally fun street devoid of international chains should walk the length of the Haarlemmerstraat and Haarlemmerdijk. You can also find all kinds of interesting exotic sauces, spices and kitchenware in Chinatown near the Nieuwmarkt and funky interior design elements on Overtoom Over toom in West.

 ALCOHOL & BEER SHOPS DE BIERKONING With roughly 1100 beers from Europe and the States available on the premises, this brew shop is probably the best stocked of its genre in Amsterdam. It also sells some cider and loads of souvenir beer glasses.QA-2, Paleisstraat 125, tel. (+31) 206 25 23 36, www.bierkoning.nl. Open 11:00-19:00, Mon 13:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-18:00, Sun 13:00-18:00. A

GRAPE DISTRICT  This large chain of wine w ine shops usually has something for everyone.QP-2, Linnaeusstraat 106, tel. (+31) 204 63 09 57, [email protected], www.grapedistrict.nl. Open 11:00-19:00, Mon 13:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-18:00. Closed Sun. A

H. P. DE VRENG EN ZONEN  This family business has been bee n distilling natural Dutch spirits since 1710 and you can buy the finished product here as well as other quality alcohol like single malt scotch and fine brandies.QA-1, Nieuwendijk 75, tel. (+31) 206 24 45 81, www.oudamsterdam.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. A

LE CELLIER  This place offers an incredibl incrediblee selection of liqour liqour,, whiskey, whiskey, wine and other alcoholic beverages.QA-2, Spuistraat 114, tel. (+31) 206 38 65 73, www.lecellier.nl. Open 09:3018:00, Mon 11:00 11:00-1 -18:00, 8:00, Sat S at 09:30-1 09:30 -17:30. 7:30. Closed Sun. A

SYMBOL KEY A Accepts credit cards P Air conditionin conditioning g O Casino

T Child-friendly

U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outside seating

X Smoking section

S Takeaway

W  W  Wifi ifi

 ANTIQUES & ART ART ANTIQUARIAAT BRINKMAN Antique books on all subjects and some maps as well. QA-3, Singel 319, tel. (+31) 206 23 83 53, www. antiquariaatbrinkman.nl. Open 10:00-17:00, Sat 11:0017:00. Closed Sun. A

ANTIQUARIAAT LONT Owner Marieke Lont specialises in antique books, posters and postcards.QE-4, Herenstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 26 39 82, www.antiquariaat-lont.nl. Open 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-17:00. Closed Sun. A

ANTIQUARIAN HOOGKAMP An excellent selection of antique prints, maps, cityscapes and botanicals from the 16th - 20th centuries.QG-8, Spiegelgracht 27 27,, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 206 25 88 52, www.prenten.net. w ww.prenten.net. Open 11:00-1 1:00-17:00. 7:00. Closed Close d Sun.

BRUIL & BRANDSMA Dutch Renaissance art, furniture and local folk art. QG-8, Prinsengracht 1001, tel. (+31) 203 20 16 87, bruilandbrandsmaantiques.com. Open 11:00-18:00. Closed Sun.

THE TOTALITARIAN TOTALITARIAN ART GALLERY  This gallery and a nd antique shop sells an eclectic ecle ctic selection sele ction of unusual art and memorabilia from the Soviet era including paintings, signs, toys and busts of Stalin.QF-4, Singel 87, tel. (+31) 653 69 36 94, www.sovietart.com. Open 12:00 2:00-1 -18:00. 8:00. Closed Clos ed Mon, Tue, Wed.

BOOKS THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER Book lovers could spend days in this temple to Englishlanguage literature. Skip the coffee table book s and magazines on the ground floor and climb up to the next two floors for novels, travel, history, sci-fi, fantasy, political science and even manga.QA-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31) 206 25 55 37, 37, www.abc.nl. ww w.abc.nl. Open O pen 10:00-20:00, 10:00 -20:00, Mon 11:00 11:00-20:00, -20:00, Thu 10:00-2 10:00 -21:00, 1:00, Sat 11:00-1 1:00-18:30. 8:30. Closed Close d Sun. A

THE BOOK EXCHANGE

Don’t leave without perusing some Delft Blue

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Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Secondhand English-language books from fitcion and history to current events for good prices. Book Bo ok exchanges also possible as the name suggests.QB-2, Kloveniersburgwal 58, tel. (+31) 206 26 62 66, www.bookexchange.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:30-16:00. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Shopping WATERSTONE’S An outstanding selection of English language literature including books on travel, history and politics not to mention contemporary fiction, classic novels, magazines and newspapers on four floors.QA-3, Kalverstraat 152, tel. (+31) 206 38 38 21, www.waterstones.com. Open 09:30-18:30, Mon 10:00-18:00, Thu 09:30-21:00, Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. A

DELFTWARE JORRIT HEINEN DELFT SHOP An official dealer of Royal Delft porcelain from cutesy souvenirs and tiles to upmarket vases and flatware. It also has an outlet in the th e historic Munttoren Munt toren (Mint Tower). Tower).QE-6, Prinsengracht 440, 4 40, tel. (+31 (+31) 206 27 82 99, www.jorritheinen ww w.jorritheinen.. com. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A

RINASCIMENTO DELFTWARE

CHEESE AMSTERDAMS KAASHUIS Although it looks like a tourist trap, where else can you watch cheese being made in the centre of Amsterdam? Cheese, chocolates and other souvenirs are sold here and it’s also a good place to taste cheese for free.QA-1, Haringpakkerssteeg ingpakkerss teeg 10, tel. (+31) (+31) 206 24 10 10 06. Open O pen 10:0010:00 18:00, Thu 10:00-21 10:00-21:00. :00. A

KAASLAND

 This official Delftware Delf tware factor f actoryy dealer sells every e verything thing from plates, tiles and vases to beautiful Christmas ornaments the perfect souvenir.QE-5, Prinsengracht 170, tel. (+31) 206 22 75 09, www.delt-art-gallery.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. 17:00. A

DELIS & FOOD EICHHOLTZ

TJAS

 This delicatessen has been in operation since 1888, but now specialises in products for homesick Americans and Brits. Buy anything from Fruit Loops and A&W root beer to eggnog and Aunt Jemima syrup for inflated prices.QF-7, Leidsestraat 48, tel. (+31) 206 22 03 05. Open 10:0018:30, Thu 09:00-21 09:0 0-21:00, :00, Sun 12:00-18:00.

REYPENAER

FISHES

Dozens of other shops in Amsterdam will sell you the standard yellow stuff, but the delicious Reypenaer cheese sold here is a cut above the rest. Exclusivity does come with a slightly higher price tag, but nothing makes a better Amsterdam souvenir than the vacuum-packed matured cheeses sold here.QE-5, Singel 182, tel. (+31) 203 20 63 33, www.reypenaer.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Mon, Sun 12:00-18:00. Tastings at 12:00, 13:30, 15:00, 16:30 inlcude six cheeses and drinks. Tickets: €17.50.

Everything from mussels, salmon, calamari and scallops to prepared seafood salads.QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 98, tel. (+31) 206 26 85 00, www.fishes.nl. Open 10:00-18:30, Mon 12:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-17:00. 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun.

 This decade decades-old s-old shop and bakery sells more than 200 kinds of cheeses.QE-4, Haarlemmerdijk 1, tel. (+31) 206 25 79 45, www.kaasland.eu. Open 08:00-20:00, Tue, Wed 08:00-18:30, Sat 08:00-18:00, Sun 09:30-19:00.

TJASW

CHOCOLATES CHOCOLA TES & SWEETS JAMIN  This large chain of sweets shops literally sells all kinds of sugary treats and candy by the kilo as well as sweets featuring logos like Hello Kitty and Littlest Pet Shop for the kids.QA-2, Kalverstraat 39, tel. (+31) 206 20 22 56, www.  jamin.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Mon 12:00 2:00-1 -18:00, 8:00, Thu 10:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. A

JORDINO Find incredible creations made by master chocolatiers from chocolate truffles and moulded animals to highheeled shoes and even mini-Louis Vuiton purses made of chocolate. A wide range of ice cream, gelato and sherbet are also on offer.QE-3, Haarlemmerdijk Haarlemme rdijk 25, tel. (+31) (+31) 204 20 32 25, www.jordino.nl. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon, Sun 13:00-19:00.

VANROSELEN FINE CHOCOLATES Exclusive high-end cocoa products, ice cream and even beer and wine that tastes like chocolate. Also sells organic, fair trade chocolates.QG-7, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 72, tel. (+31) 206 20 27 77, www.vanroselen.nl. Open 10:3018:30, Sat 10:30-1 10:30 -18:00, 8:00, Sun 12:00-16:30. A facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

DUTCH SOUVENIRS Cheese Dutch cheese is simply legendary and among Cheese Dutch the world’s best. For the best big chunks and whole wheels of Gouda, goat or sheep cheese go to Cheese & More on More on Leidsestraat. If you have a more demanding palate try the gourmet cheeses at Reypenaer (Singel 182). Our personal favourite would have to be Oude Amsterdam Kaas (Old Amsterdam Cheese) sold at all local cheese shops. Deltware  The factory in Delft Deltware  isn’tt exactly close to Amsterdam, isn’ but Delfts Blauw (blue porcelain) is sold everywhere in Amsterdam. Find a tourist shop and go wild with the little cute statues. We particularly like the Christmas ornaments at Jorrit Heinen (Prinsengracht 440) and Rinascimento Rinascimento (Prinsengracht  (Prinsengracht 170). Stroopwaels  It looks like a gooey biscuit that’s been Stroopwaels It run over, but it’s actually delicious. One of the most exported products among people visiting their friends and family abroad (because it’ it ’s small, easy to transport and very tasty), you can find them at any supermarket and most souvenir shops.  Autumn 2015

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Shopping DEPARTMENT DEP ARTMENT STORES DE BIJENKORF  This posh depart department ment store on Dam Square offers two cafés, a restaurant, men and women’s fashion and lots of upmarket shopping on six floors. The place to go for the brands like Vuitton and Hermes.QA-2, Dam 1, www. debijenkor.nl. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon, Sun 11:0019:00, Thu, Fri 10:00-21 10:00-21:00, :00, Sat 09:30-19:00. AK

EROTIC GEAR CONDOMERIE HET GULDEN VLIES It claims to be the world’s first specialised condom shop. If it’s got anything to do with prophylactics, this place has it. You can also buy wider, snugger or longer rubbers depending on your length and girth.QA-2, Warmoesstraat 141, tel. (+31) 206 27 41 75, www.condomerie.com. Open 11:00 11:00-1 -18:00. 8:00. Closed Clos ed Sun. A

FEMALE & PARTNERS Discover an excellent assortment of sexy women’s lingerie from traditional silk and lace to leather and latex, not to mention classy sex toys, bondage accessories and lubricants.QA-2, Spuistraat 100, tel. (+31) 206 20 91 52, www.emaleandpartners.nl. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Mon 13:00 - 18:30, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 13 :00 - 18:00. A

“Brutally honest.” Wall Street Journal “Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In Your Pocket  city  city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison.” The Independent “Detailed, carefully researched guides.” Daily Mail “Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.” The Guardian “In Your Pocket : a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times “The In Your Pocket  series  series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. They have become a European publishing phenomenon.” International Herald Tribun Tribunee

Amsterdam In

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS HEINEKEN BRANDSTORE A heaven for Heineken lovers, this massive glass and steel shop on two and half floors sells everything from typical beer souvenirs like t-shirts, bottle openers and glasses to mini-keg coolers, giant bean bags and even sports jackets and dresses with the famous red star logo.QG/H-7, Amstelstraat 31, tel. (+31) 205 30 47 70, www.heineken. com/brandstore. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. A

KNUFFELS�PLUCHE�KLOMPENBOER Like the Dutch name suggests, this place sells toys, gadgets and traditional wooden shoes. The latter are made in the shop’s own factory.QB-2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 39 - 51, tel. (+31) 204 27 38 62, www.knuffels.com. Open 10:00-18:00. A

PRESS BOX

46 

Fresh seafood at the Albert Cuyp Market

Your Pocket

INTERIOR DESIGN KITSCH KITCHEN Although this shop sells plenty of items for your kitchen, it also specialises in all kinds of interesting products for your home including baskets, textiles, carpets, blankets, bags, stationery and tableware.QE-7, Rozengracht 8-12, tel. (+31) 204 62 00 50, www.kitschkitchen.nl. Open 10:0018:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. A

VINTAGE HOME In the heart of De Pijp you’ll find this 250m2 vintage shop with great designer furniture from the late 1950s to the early 1980s. Even if you don’t buy anything here, which is hard to imagine, you’ll have gained enough inspiration to redecorate your home.QG-9, Daniel Stalpertstraat 97, tel. (+31) 206 79 04 72, in[email protected], www. vintagehome.nl. Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. TAL

KIDS’ STUFF TINKER BELL All kinds of interesting learning toys including safe science experiments for older children.QF-8, Spiegelgracht 10, tel. (+31) 206 25 88 30, www.tinkerbelltoys.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, 10:00-18 :00, Mon 13 13:00 :00-1 -18:00, 8:00, Sun 12:00-17:00. 12:00-17:00. A amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Shopping MARKETS

SPECIALITY SHOPS

ALBERT CUYP MARKET �ALBERT CUYPMARKT�

A SPACE ODDITY

 This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery, fresh seafood like crab and lobster, flowers, lingerie, souvenirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more things you can’t do without as wells as plenty of food s talls. QH-9, Albert Cuypstraa Cuypstraat, t, www.albertcuypmarkt.co www.albertcuypmarkt.com. m. Open 09:00-18:00. Closed Sun.

 This is the place for film and T V action figures figure s and collectibles from the Twilight saga and Harry Potter to original 1980s Star Wars toys.QE-6, Prinsengracht 204, tel. (+31) 204 27 40 36, www.spaceoddity.nl. Open 11:00-17:30, Sat 10:15-17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

FLOWER MARKET �BLOEMENMARKT�  The Flower Market is a tourist attra attraction ction and a function function-ing market in one. You can buy bulbs and seeds for all kinds of plants and flowers and we have to admit that we’ve also picked up a Venus flytrap kit here, which was a huge hit with kids at home.QA/B-3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30.

NOORDERMARKT �BOERENMARKT� Every Saturday this market in the Jordaan district positively teems with life. Located on a lovely square in the shadow of the Norderkerk (North (No rth Church), you can browse through stalls selling cheese, vintage clothing, sausages, fresh produce, antiques and lots of other food and fashion. QE-4, Noordermarkt, www.boerenmarktamsterdam. nl. Open Sat 09:00-16:00.

MUSIC SHOPS CONCERTO Possibly the city’s, and perhaps the nation’s largest collection of new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl spread out across five buildings: one for classical, another for world music and jazz, one for pop/rock, one dedicated to dance music and yet another to vinyl and used CDs. Amazing!QH-7, Utrechtsestraat 52 - 60, tel. (+31) 206 23 52 28, www.concertomania.nl. Open 10:00-18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00-1 10:00 -19:00, 9:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. A

RECORD MANIA Record Mania has a great collection of vinyl from old blues and punk records to soul and funk.QG-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 30, tel. (+31) 206 20 99 12, www.recordmania.nl. Open 12:00-1 12:00 -18:00. 8:00.

SECONDHAND & VINTAGE

DUIKELMAN If you love to cook then drop by Duikelman’s for both expensive and affordable items from pots and pans to oyster knives and meat grinders.QH-10, Ferdinand Bolstraat 66-68, 6668, tel. (+31) (+31) 206 206 71 22 30, www.duikelman.nl. Open 09:30-18:00, Sat 09:30-17:00. 09:30-17:00. Closed Close d Sun. A

KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER If you’re interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at work here or have a look at the gallery of finished products. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment. QN-4, Schellingwoude Schellingwouderdijk rdijk 243, tel. (+31) (+31) 204 90 49 39, www.marjokedeheer.com. Open Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A

SPORTS & OUTDOORS FJÄLLRÄVEN FJ ÄLLRÄVEN BRAND CENTER CE NTER  This popular Swedish brand, which means arctic fox, spespe cialises in all kinds of outdoor gear from f rom its signature backpacks and camping essentials like tents to clothing, hiking boots and all the apparel you’ll need to spend time in nature. Its large brand centre in Amsterdam is conveniently located on the Rozengracht.QD-7, Rozengracht 219 - 225, tel. (+31) 204 28 17 60, www.fallravencenter.nl. Open 10:00-19:00, Mon 12:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-1 10:00 -18:00, 8:00, Sun 12:00-18:00. JA

SUPERMARKETS ALBERT HEIJN  The largest supermarket chain in the Netherlands has dozens of locations all over Amsterdam.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 226, tel. (+31) 204 21 83 44, www.ah.nl. Open 08:00-22:00. 08:0 0-22:00. Also at Jodenbre Jodenbreestraat estraat 21, tel. (+31 (+31)) 206 24 12 12 49. Open 08:00 - 22:00; Prins Hendrikkade Hendr ikkade 20, tel. (+31) 206 27 06 01. Open 07:00 - 22:00; Stadhouderskade 101, tel. (+31) 206 75 28 88. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00; and many other locations.

LES PETITES SUCCES  This smal smalll vin vintage tage sho shop p has a wide selecti selection on of garme garments nts for all occasions. Its cakes are also well worth the detour.QB-2, Sint Jansstraat 61 61,, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 203 70 60 01 01,, www.lespetitespuc ww w.lespetitespuces. es. nl. Open 12:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J

TUTTI FRUTTI  This cosy little shop deals in second-hand designer clothes and you can also sell your own garments if they conform to Tutti Frutti’s high standards. Otherwise you can just search for that special dressyou’ve always wanted. It offers huge sales in January and August.QD-8, Bilderdijkstraat 147, tel. (+31) 206 12 18 54, www.tutti-rutti.tv. Open 10:00-18:00, Mon 13:00-18:00. 13:00-18:00. Closed Close d Sun. Sun . facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

Amsterdam’s shops have something for everyone

 Autumn 2015

47

Lifestyle Directory Need to wash some clothes, fins a doctor or get a massage at a day spa? You’ll find the answers here.

BICYCLE REP REPAIR AIR HET ZWARTE FIETSENPLAN Looking for replacement parts for your bike? Crashed into a car and need repairs? These guys will sort you out.QF-8, Lijnbaansgracht 282 - 283, tel. (+31) 206 70 85 31. Open 08:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:00-17:00. A

BOWLING KNIJN BOWLING A lane will cost you €21 - 28/hour depending on the day and time.QD-6, Scheldplein 3, tel. (+31) 206 64 22 11, www.knijnbowling.nl. AK

CINEMAS

 AJAX FOOTBALL MA MATCHES TCHES Whether due to the magic of its illustrious past, the excitement of the famous arena or just as part of a football pilgrimage, Ajax still draws tens of thousands of tourists every year. There are a high number of season ticket holders, so only a few thousand seats are for sale for each game, which can be bought via the official Ajax site (www.ajax.nl). Matches are seldom boring in large part due to Section 410. This part of the stadium is populated by mostly young fans that are the team’s most die-hard supporters. This is in stark contrast to the official so-called core support of the F-side, which you can find behind the goal. Photo courtesy of Ajax Football Club Amsterdam Arena Arena Arena Arena boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13 33, www.ajax.nl, www.amsterdamarena.nl.

HET KETELHUIS Set in a rather spacious former warehouse, it offers Dutch and foreign arthouse movies, Q&As, debates and even dance events.QC-4, Pazzanistraat 4, tel. (+31) 206 84 00 90, www.ketelhuis.nl. Open 16:00-01:00, Wed, Fri 14:00-01:00, Sat 12:00-03:00, Sun 10:30-03:00. XW

THE MOVIES An institution in Amsterdam since 1912, The Moviesoffers independent films and a bar.QD-4, Haarlemmerdijk 161 - 163, tel. (+31) 206 38 60 16, www.themovies.nl.

DENTISTS TANDARTSEN TAND ARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT HER ENGRACHT QF-6,

Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, www. tadh.nl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Upcoming matches at Amsterdam Arena: 31.10 05.11 21.111 21.1 05.12 10.12 20.12

19:45 19:00 19:455 19:4 20:45 19:00 16:45

Ajax vs. Roda JC AA Ajax vs. Fenerbahc Fenerbahcee SK AA Ajax vs. SC Cambuur Leeuwarden AA Ajax vs. SC Heerenveen AA Ajax vs. Molde FK AA Ajax vs. De Graafschap AA

LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS LAUNDRY & THINGS

KARTING RACE PLANET AMSTERDAM  The place to go in Amsterdam for indoor go-k go-karting. arting. It also offers specials for kids parties.QHerwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206 11 11 20, www.raceplanet.nl. Open 13:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00.

Self-serve washing machines.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 30, tel. (+31) 614 03 28 03. Open 08:00-22:00.

WASH & COFFEE Just like the name says.QG-9/10, Quellijnstraat 90, tel. (+31) 204 70 36 79, washcoffee.amsterdam@gmail. com, www.wash-coffee.nl. Open 07:30-18:30. Closed Tue.

WASSALON LAUNDRY Wash it yourself or drop it off and it’ll be ready in a few hours.QG-9, Frans Halssatraat 83, tel. (+31) 643 58 32 09. Open 08:30-18:00, Sat 09:00-18:00. Closed Sun.

LIBRARIES CENTRALE BIBLIOTHEEK 

 They look a little too sullen sullen for souvenirs

48 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

 This modern glass building betwee between n the Central Station and the NEMO Science Centre not only has an interesting location but also books in English, internet access and it’s open late.QH-3, Oosterdokskade 143, tel. (+31) 205 23 09 00, in[email protected], www.oba.nl. Open 10:00-22:00. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle Directory MASSAGE

REAL ESTATE

CHINA BEAUTY MASSAGE CENTER

DIRECT WONEN

A full body massage, a pedicure or a foot massage cost €35 for one hour. A 30-minute foot massage, which includes a head, neck and shoulder massage, costs €20. QA-2, Paleisstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 21 21 21, www. chinesemassageamsterdam.com. Open 11:00-23:00. Also at Kloveniersburgwal 28 (Shanghai Beauty), tel. (+31 (+ 31)) 204 20 94 82.

If you’re looking for an apartment, these guys may be able to help.QE-8, Overtoom 47, tel. (+31) 206 16 16 66, www. directwonen.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

KOAN FLOAT

 The Japanese Japanese-styl -stylee City Street Spa is Amsterdam’s latest attraction among the spa set. Apart from the usual treatments, you can also hire the whole place for €60/hour. QG-8, Prinsengracht 764, tel. (+31) 202 21 41 02, ino@ thecitystreetspa.com, www.thecitystreetspa.com. Open 10:00-20:00.

 This massage centre lets you relax by floating in in warm water heated to 35.5C.QF-7, Herengracht 321, tel. (+31) 205 55 03 33, www.koanfloat.nl. Open 09:30-23:00. JA

MEDICAL & WELLNESS EXPATT MEDICAL CENTRE EXPA  The English-speaking doctors here offer medical attention, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they accept EU health cards, too!QD-6, Bloemgracht 112, tel. (+31) 204 27 50 11, www.expatmc.net. Open 09:0018:00. Closed Sat, Sun. On Saturdays and Sundays by appointment only.

PAINTBALL & LASER TAG PAINTBALL JUNGLE Shoot your friends as part of a stag night or come here with your colleagues for a little team building exercise. QWethouder van Essenweg, tel. (+31) 206 13 11 29, www.paintballjungle.nl. Open 09:00-23:00.

SPAS & BEAUTY CITY STREET SPA

HAMMAM AMSTERDAM  The relaxing atmosphere of this single sex Near Easternstyle bath house can be enjoyed by all, but you must bring your own scrubbing glove and if you don’t have one you’re obligated to buy one for €5. Facilities include a sauna, Turkish steam bath, chill out areas, beauty treatments, massage, solarium and a café.QC-3, Zaanstraat 88, tel. (+31) 206 81 48 18, www.hammamamsterdam. nl. For women open Tues - Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00, or men open Mon 12:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults €17, children 6 - 11 years €10, children 2 - 5 years €8, boys under 4 are allowed a llowed to enter on women’s days with their mothers.

SWIMMING POOLS HET MARNIX

PHARMACIES DA APOTHEEK LEIDSESTRAA LEIDSESTRA AT  The pharmacy can be reached during the day via the entrance of the DA-drugstore at Leidsestraat around the corner.QF-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76, tel. (+31) 204 22 02 10, www.da-apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. Open 09:00-21:50. Closed Sat, Sun.

DAM APOTHEEK  Centrally located pharmacy next to the Dam.QA-2, Damstraat 2, tel. (+31) (+31) 206 24 43 31, 31, damapotheek@ezorg. damapothe [email protected], nl, www.dam-apotheek.nl. Open 09:00-17:30. A

Despite its small size, Het Marnix boasts two swimming pools, a spa and a restaurant.QD-5, Marnixplein 1, tel. (+31 (+ 31)) 205 24 60 6 0 00, www.hetmarni www.hetmarnix.nl. x.nl. AK

TATTOOS & PIERCING DERMADONNA CUSTOM TATTOOS TATTOOS Get a tattoo from real experts.QB-2, Kloveniersburgwal 34, tel. (+31) 207 73 66 14/(+31) 611 28 47 39, www. dermadonna.nl. Open 12:00-20:00.

HANKY PANKY TA TATTOOING TTOOING  Tattoos in the Red Light district district..QB-2, Oudezijdsvoorburgwal 141, tel. (+31) 206 27 48 48, www. hankypankytattoo.nl. Open 11:00-18:00.

TATTO TA TTOO O PALACE  The tattoo artist artistss have been at it here since 1989 1989..QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 91, tel. (+31) 206 38 44 48, www. tattoopalace.com. Open 12:00-19:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 2:00-22:00, -22:00, Sun 14:00-1 14:00 -19:00. 9:00.

 VETS & PETS DIERENKLINIEK DE JORDAAN QD-4,

 The Tuschinski Tuschinski is a popular cinema right on Leidsestraat

facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

2e Goudsbloemdwarsstraat Goudsbloe mdwarsstraat 19 19,, tel. (+31) (+31) 204 23 61 04, www.dierenkliniekdejordaan.nl. Open 09:0018:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  Autumn 2015

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Hotels Amsterdam has it all from five-star design suites to forlorn hovels that have been grudgingly awarded a single star.

CREAM OF THE CROP NH GRAND HOTEL KRASNAPOLSKY What began in the 19th century as a coffee house on the Warmoesstraat expanded over time into the massive hotel you see now on the Dam. Due to its age and historic significance, the Krasnapolsky hasn’t conformed to the modern NH hotel group style and many of its 468 rooms have retained some elements of their old world elegance.  That said, sa id, most of the accommodation includes include s huge flat screen TVs and king size beds and the rooms in the new wing have a more contemporary look. The hotel also offers restaurants and bars, fitness and business centres, ice machines on each floor and valet parking and you can also have breakfast in the spectacular Winter Garden atrium where Dutch royalty have held their wedding receptions. QA-2, Dam 9, tel. (+31) 205 54 91 11, www.nh-hotels. com. 468 rooms (426 deluxe and executive, 6 junior suites, 1 suite, 35 apartments). PJHA6FL

KXW hhhhh

RENAISSANCE AMSTERDAM HOTEL  This luxurious luxur ious five-star five-s tar hotel, which is part par t of the t he Marriott Marr iott group, offers over 400 modern, tastefully decorated rooms in the city centre only a five-minute walk from the Central Station. Spread out over several buildings, the hotel was completely renovated in 2009 and its accommodation includes all of the amenities one would expect from a five-star hotel including king size beds, wireless internet access, climate control, large flat screen TVs and a few extras like bathrobes, slippers and fresh fruit. A Mediterranean restaurant, a traditional tradit ional brown café and a hip cocktail bar are also at your disposal as well as a health club and a conference centre located in a converted Lutheran church across the street that dates back to 1668.QA-1 A-1,, Kattengat K attengat 1, tel. (+31) (+31) 206 21 22 23, w ww.marriott. ww.marriott.com. com. 402 Total rooms 402 rooms (deluxe rom €269, club level rom €329, junior suites rom €409, royal suites available).

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UPMARKET DOUBLETRE E BY HILTON DOUBLETREE HILTON HOTEL AMSTERDAM CENTRAAL STA STATION TION  This huge hotel offers over 500 50 0 spacious rooms ro oms in a modmo dern glass and steel building on the water near the Central Station. All accommodation includes tasteful décor with neutral colours, wall-to-wall carpeting, floor-to-ceiling windows with excellent views, iMac computers with free wi-fi, refrigerators and private bathrooms. Executive rooms and suites have the added benefit of complimentary mini-bars, breakfast and a morning newspaper. The massive structure also houses a gym, conference facilities, a lobby bar, a café and the rooftop Sky Lounge that affords patrons unparalleled vistas of Amsterdam.QG-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00, www. placesdoubletree.com. 553 rooms (doubles/twin rom €204, executive rom €254, suites rom €354). PT

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EDEN AMSTERDAM MANOR HOTEL  This massive brick building that was once a hospital hospital where legendary footballer Johan Cruijff was born, was completely renovated and opened as a luxury hotel by the Eden Group in the summer of 2010. Given its historical significance to Amsterdam, much of the hotel has been decorated with the city’s iconic triple X symbol, including the carpets, the walls and even the duvets on the beds. Although the façade is a stark reminder of the building’s past, the interior and the 125 rooms within are completely modern and conform to the latest 21st-century design trends. Accommodation includes all of the luxurious amenities you would expect and the layout of the junior suites is often unique as most hotel rooms don’t place large, rotating flat screen TVs at the foot of their beds. An Italian restaurant, a bar and conference facilities are also available. QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 89, tel. (+31) 207 00 84 00, www. edenamsterdammanorhotel.com. edenamsterdamma norhotel.com. 125 rooms (superior rooms rom €80, deluxe rooms rom €100, junior suites rom €140). PHAULGBKW hhhh

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PARK HOTEL AMSTERDAM

Windmills can still be found if you know where to look

 This sty stylish lish four-star hotel was completely renovated in 2008 and recently named the Netherlands’ best business hotel. Modern design is already evident in the lobby also know as the Living Room where you can relax with a drink by a huge open fireplace or next to the library. Superior rooms are decorated in subtle greys, whites and blacks and include a piece of art by a Dutch designer as well amenities like Nespresso machines and iPod docking stations and open-concept bathrooms with rainforest showerheads. Even more luxurious executive, bridal and splitlevel suites with kitchenettes are also available as well as a hip Asian restaurant, a 24-hour fitness centre and conference rooms.QF-5, Stadhouderskade Stadhouder skade 25, tel. (+31) (+31) 206 71 12 22, www.parkhotel.nl. superior doubles €129 - 149, executive doubles €169 - 189, junior suites €209 - 229, bridal suite €369 - 389, split level €289 - 309, executive suites €369 - 389. PHAUFGKW hhhh

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Hotels SANDTON HOTEL DE FILOSOOF Located between busy Overtoom and the peaceful Vondel Park, the Philosopher offers 45 unique rooms each decorated in its own style, sty le, but all with a common theme of philosophy. You can expect the usual four-star amenities such as a  TV, wireless internet, safe, writing desk, private bathrooms and in some cases wonderful views of the manicured garden below. Suites are located across the street and offer more space and views of the historic hotel’s beautiful brick façade and its embellishments, which are either gargoyles or lions.QE-10, Anna van den Vondelstraat 6, tel. (+31) 206 83 30 13, www.sandton.eu/amsterdam. 45 rooms (23 cosy rooms €84 - 93, 10 deluxe rooms €100 - 110, 12 suites €148 - 155). HAKW hhh

BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS BROOKLYN HOTEL Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to miss as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM wharf that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the waters of the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey colours that includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless internet access, mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to mention incredible views. We particularly liked the room where you can shower and look out the floor-to-ceiling glass window. If lstyle is important then Brooklyn won’t disappoint.QNDSM-Plein 28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06 66, www.brooklynhotel.nl. 88 rooms (standard doubles rom €89, deluxe rooms rom €1 €129). 29). PALKW

MIRACULOUS AMSTERDAM Amsterdam first put its name on the map of Europe not with its trading prowess, its port or with prostitution, but with a supposed miracle that’s still celebrated today on March 12. The story goes that in 1345 a man was gravely ill and summoned a priest to administer communion, but the man was so sick that he couldn couldn’t’t keep anything down and kept vomiting, so the clergyman advised the women of the household to throw any expelled holy liquids on the fire, which they did. The next morning they discovered a perfectly formed host, or communion wafer, in the fireplace, which seemed impervious to the surrounding flames. A miracle was declared, a chapel was built on the site of the house and pilgrims began streaming into Amsterdam. Today pilgrims of a different sort still converge on the city and quite a few probably also vomit here, but we doubt that the shoarma and French fries that come up have any religious significance. It’s also interesting to note that the chapel was later destroyed and the building that now occupies its place houses the Amsterdam Dungeon. Sources also don’t seem to mention what became of the man who started all of the commotion with his holy heaving. facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket

 Typical Amsterdam architecture

HOTEL THE EXCHANGE  The people who brought you the Lloyd Hotel in AmsterAms terdam East have expanded their unique hospitality concept to the city centre. They believe, and rightly so, that style should be available to all, so the hotel offers rooms of varying sizes and levels of comfort for all budgets in one building. Five-star rooms are more spacious and offer more amenities than a one-star room, but all accommodation includes cutting-edge interior design. The New York  Times even praised pra ised the hotel’s designers designer s writing: ‘they ‘the y accessorized each room as if it were a model.’QA-1, Damrak 50, tel. (+31) 205 61 36 99, www.hoteltheexchange. com. 61 rooms (1-star rom €82, 2-star rom €88, 3-star rom €92, 4-star 4- star rom r om €115 €115,, 5-star 5-st ar rom €1 €138). 38).

HOTEL VONDEL  This fantastic boutique hotel located in a quiet Museum district neighbourhood is an excellent choice for anyone who requires accommodation with cutting-edge design. A unique blend of new and antique, European and Asian, Hotel Vondel offers four-star rooms with every imaginable amenity including flat screen TVs, wireless internet, iPod speakers and mini-bars as well as individually designed interiors and private natural stone bathrooms with walkin rainforest showers and/or bathtubs. A private garden is also at you disposal as well as a trendy lounge and restaurant.QE-9, Vondelstraat 26, tel. (+31) 206 12 01 20, www.vondelhotels.com. singles €85 - 120, doubles €90 - 130, triples €160 - 195, suites €380, executive rooms €1 €115 15 - 165. PHAGKW hhhh

NL�HOTEL LEIDSEPLEIN Although designed by a renowned Dutch architect, all of this wonderful hotel’s 13 rooms have Asian influences such as bamboo plants or bonsai trees, not to mention a representation of the Buddha Bud dha in each room. All of the usual amenities are included such as cable TV, wireless internet and modern bathrooms with frosted glass doors. Deluxe rooms also boast mini-fridges and coffee machines and one even has its own private Asian garden. Finally, the staff are genuinely friendly and the hubbub of Leidseplein is only minutes away.QE-9, Nassaukade 368, tel. (+31) 206 89 00 30, www.nl-hotel.com. 13 rooms (singles €85 - 200, doubles €110 - 200). ZALGW hhh  Autumn 2015

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Hotels MID-RANGE CONSCIOUS HOTEL MUSEUM SQUARE As far as price is concerned, this is one of the better hotels in town, even though the exterior doesn’t suggest anything exciting. The size of the simple, but clean and comfortable rooms vary from reasonable to extraordinarily large, especially when one considers similar accommodation in Amsterdam. Then again, only its sister hotel on Overtoom is truly similar. Both try to be as green and eco-friendly as possible using recycled materials in their furnishings and even offer organic breakfasts. The Vondel Park is a short stroll away and the centre of town is about a 15-minute walk.QF-10, De Lairessestraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 71 95 96, www.conscioushotels.com. 36 rooms (doubles and amily rooms €95 - 174). ALGW hhh

HOTEL MOSAIC  This modern moder n glass, stone s tone and steel building bu ilding is completely completel y different from most of the lodgings in the area. All of its 35 rooms offer flat screen TV, free wireless internet access, hardwood floors and bright beige interiors, private bathrooms, climate control and coffee/tea sets, which is important as the hotel doesn’t offer breakfast or any meals for that matter. Our room also had floor-to-ceiling windows and a terrace. The hotel is located on the th e second floor of the building. Follow the instructions at the entrance and the staff will buzz you in.QE-9, Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat 14a, tel. (+31) (+31) 204 89 90 00, www.hotelmosaic.nl. www.hotelmosa ic.nl. 35 rooms (singles rom €110, €110, doubles rom €145, triples rom €215, quads rom €280). € 280). PAW hhh

BED & BREAKFAST

ESPRESSO HOTEL CITY CENTRE

B&B ALL IN THE FAMILY

Conveniently located on Amsterdam West’s main drag, Overtoom, this stylish, yet affordable hotel opened its doors at the end of 2012. All of its accommodation including twin rooms, doubles and triples are decorated in a similar style that features coffee-coloured floral wallpaper. Amenities such as flat screen TVs, climate control, free wireless internet access, laptop safes, coffee/tea sets and small private bathrooms all come standard and a great ground floor lounge with views vie ws of street is also at your disposal.QE-9, Overtoom 57, tel. (+31) 204 12 08 80, www. hotelespresso.nl. 68 rooms (twin/doubles rom €90, triples rom €120). €120). PAUGKW hhh

Among arty shops and tiny restaurants in the Jordaan, you’ll find this bed and breakfast with only two rooms. It’s owned by a cheerful couple that enjoys sharing their house and knowledge of the city with their guests. Squeeze yourself into the old fashioned Dutch kitchen for breakfast or in the small backyard where you can hear birds singing. Both rooms are in the attic, but we like the one near the original hoisting beam on the facade. Expect cosy accommodation with comfortable double beds, washbasin, fridge, fan, water kettle and a shared bathroom.QG-6, 2e Eglantierdwarsstraat 10, tel. (+31) 207 76 36 36, www.allintheamily.nl. 2 rooms (doubles €95 - €110). JA

HOTEL IRON HORSE When one looks at the quaint brick façade of this typically narrow building, one can hardly believe that a stylish, modern three-star hotel with an equine theme is housed inside its historic walls. Why a horse hor se theme you might ask? It was formerly used as the headquarters for the Amsterdam mounted police, hence all of the photos of man’s other best friend on the walls of its bright and cosy rooms. You can expect the usual amenities like flat screen TVs, free wi-fi, private bathrooms, phone and climate control. You can also ask for a room in the main house or in the back building.QE-9, Overtoom 33, tel. (+31) 202 62 92 20, www.hotelironhorse.com. 42 rooms (singles rom €76, doubles/twin rom €85, triples rom €113, amily rooms rom €142). PAW hhh

BED & GUIDE AMSTERDAM If you’re looking for luxurious accommodation right in the centre of the Amsterdam’s canal belt, then you should give this renovated 17th-century canal house a try. One apartment offers a full kitchen and living room as well as a separate bedroom and bathroom on the second floor, while the other is located on the ground floor and includes access to a private garden. Free bicycles and a tour of the city are included in the price as well as a stocked fridge, so you make your own breakfast in the morning.QG-8, Kerkstraat 202, tel. (+31) 655 79 19 49, www.bedandguide. nl. 2 apar tments (doubles €1 €175). 75). JAW

HOTEL LEIDSE SQUARE AMSTERDAM  This modest and somewhat old-fashioned hotel can be found in a quiet district only walking distance from Vondel Park. Everything you need for a comfortable stay is present including an electric kettle and a safe, but bear in mind that the rooms are on the small side and the bathrooms are tiny. Comfortable mattresses are a major bonus, but the breakfast could be better and definitely isn’t worth the €10 fee, especially since there are so many attractive spots to eat right beyond your doorstep.QE-9, Tesselschadestraat 23, tel. (+31) 206 12 68 76, www.leidsesquarehotel.nl. 89 rooms (singles, twin and triples €45 - 250). ALGW 52 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Brick of all shapes, colours and sizes

amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Hotels BOTELS CHAMBRE BOOT For all the landlubbers who got seasick on the ferry to Amsterdam Noord, this place isn’t for you. If, on the other hand, you don’t mind waking up with a panoramic view of the River IJ, staying at Chambre Boot will be a unique experience. This boathouse is a former Jazz club turned into an attractive bed and breakfast. Although the owners live in the boat next door, you’ll have the whole house to yourself. The vessel has a wonderfully bright living room with kitchen, a separate bedroom and a small terrace.QSchellingwouderdijk 410, tel. (+31 (+31)) 624 64 52 80, www.chambreboot. w ww.chambreboot.nl. nl. 1 boathouse (€75 - 90). GBXW

BUDGET BACKSTAGE BACKST AGE HOTEL AMSTERDAM AMST ERDAM It’s really hard to find good accommodation a ccommodation in Amsterdam for a price that won’t leave you feeling like you’ve been mugged, but, somehow, this hip hotel manages to do just that. It keeps its rates surprisingly surpr isingly low and its guests happy with free wi-fi, iPod docking stations in each room, trendy Flight Case furniture and a great location that’s close enough to the bars and clubs of Leidseplein, but just far enough away so you don’t actually hear all of the nightlife that’s associated with the square. QE-7 E-7,, Leidsegracht 114, tel. (+31 (+31) 206 24 40 4 0 44, www.back www.backstagehotel.com. stagehotel.com. 22 rooms (singles rom €59, doubles/twin rom €88, triples rom €138, quads and quintuples rom €198).

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EASYHOTEL AMSTERDAM FERDINAND BOLSTRAA BOLSTRA AT  The cheap, no frills airline EasyJet has also branched out into cruise ships and even hotels, which is desperately needed in Amsterdam where room prices are often ridiculously and undeservedly expensive. Located in the bohemian De Pijp district of Amsterdam South, this hotel provides tiny rooms with WC and a glass shower in the room, so if you have a roommate he/she better not be shy. Not unlike the airline, you have to pay for any extra amenities such as TV, wireless internet access and housekeeping services.QH-10, Van Ostadestraat 97, danny.vanspall@ amsterdamb.easyhotel.com, www.easyhotel.com. 80 rooms (doubles rom €59). PZJAULGW

Bridges aren’t just for walking or cycling in Amsterdam

HOSTELS STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG Since 2007 this colossal brick building has been one of Amsterdam’s largest and most modern hostels. Its 500 beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and six-bed dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior with an orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk beds, a sink and a separate shower and toilet. Unfortunately you’ll have to stow your important gear in lockers on the ground floor. A café is also availableand the IJ brewer y is only a short walk away.QK-5/6, Timorplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31 90, www.stayokay.com. www.stayok ay.com. 500 beds (beds in six-bed dorms rom €9, beds in our-bed dorms rom €11, doubles rom €32, quads rom €42) €42).. AUGKW

THE FLYING PIG UPTOWN HOSTEL AMSTERDAM If you’re looking for cheap, quiet and peaceful accommodation, then you might want to keep looking, but if it’s a fun hostel you’re after af ter then this is the place to crash. One of three Flying Pig hostels in Amsterdam, the Uptown venue is located right next to the Vondelpark and offers both private rooms as well as dorms, which include in-room lockers. The lively bar is a great place to meet fellow travel lers and a smoking room is available in case you want to light up a cigarette or perhaps something stronger. A chill out room and a kitchen are at your disposal and breakfast and a walking tour are included in the price.QF-10, Vossiusstraat 46, 4 6, tel. (+ (+31 31)) 204 00 41 87, 87, www.flyingpig.nl. w ww.flyingpig.nl.

 APARTMEN  AP ARTMENT T RENTAL RENTAL

TOURIST INN

WORLD FASHION APARTMENTS

Part hotel, part hostel, the aptly named Tourist Inn offers clean recently renovated singles, doubles and triples with flat screen TVs, wireless internet access, air conditioning and private bathrooms with shower and hair dryer or slightly cheaper rooms with shared toilets and showers. Six-bed dorms with clean bunk beds, TVs, lockers and wi-fi are also a bargain and the shared toilet and shower facilities are clean and modern. Four computers with internet access are available in the reception area for a small fee. QA-1, Spuistraat 52, tel. (+31) 204 21 58 41, www. tourist-inn.nl. 22 rooms (singles, doubles and triples rom €60, dorm beds €20 - 35/person). PAW

If you’re one of those travellers who prefers to cook his own meals and avoid the often sterile and generic accommodation offered by standard hotels, you can book one of the many luxury apartments offered by this company in Nieuw-West. Stay in a studio apartment for as little as €135/night or choose a swankier penthouse apartment for considerably more money. All apartments include a kitchen, free wi-fi and interiors in various styles.QKoningin Wilhelminaplein 272, tel. (+31) 203 01 39 33, www. worldashionapartments.com. 60 apartments (studio rom €135, two-room rom €155, three-room rom €175). TA6LGKXW

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 Autumn 2015

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 Amsterdam for kids kids Although we wouldn’t recommend a stroll with the kids around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a cautionary tale, t ale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the little ones. Here are some of the best.

AMSTERDAM MARIONETTE THEATRE �AMSTER� DAMS MARIONETTEN THEATER�  The Ams Amsterd terdam am Mar Marion ionet ette te The Theatr atree per for forms ms play playss in its small theatre using traditional wooden marionettes. Performances are usually in Dutch, but du e to the visual and musical nature of the acts, most kids won’t care about the language barrier. You can also take a backstage tour for a behind the scenes look at the marionettes and costumes.QB-1, Nieuwe Jonkerstraat 8, tel. (+31) 206 20 80 27, www.marionettentheater.nl. Admission: adults €16, children 7 - 14 years €7.50. Opening times vary. T J

BOUNZ What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in training has now been transformed into a large trampoline centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back flipping and flopping on 32 connected trampolines. It’s a lot of fun, but if you’re over the age of 30, muscle aches are guaranteed!QWillinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44 81, in[email protected], ino@boun zsport.nl, www.bounzspo w ww.bounzsport.nl. rt.nl. Open 13:0019:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €5.50/hour. TL

BOUWSPEELPLAATS ‘T LANDJE Believe or not, but dads aren’t allowed in this children’s paradise. The management decided that their adult male presence was just too stern and would prevent kids from being, well, kids. ‘t Landje, which is located on a peninsula in in Rembrandt Park, offer s arts and craf ts classes and other activities for children.QRembrandtpark, tel. (+31 (+31)) 206 18 36 04, [email protected], w ww. impuls.nl. Open 12:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. T I B C

DE PIJP PETTING ZOO �KINDERBOERDERIJ DE PIJP�  This petting pet ting zoo has been bee n entertaining children in De Pijp since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 different species of animals from goldfish and rodents to turtles and ducks.  The usual ponies, donkeys, donkey s, pigs, rabbits, r abbits, goats g oats and an d sheep are also on hand.QH-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel. (+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo. nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00-17:00, Sat, Sun 13:00-17:00. T

FUN FOREST  This climbing park has eight different routes of vary varying ing difficulty at various heights within living trees. Climbing with a harness can take up to three hours including a 20-minute safety course. Fun for adults and children. QBosbaanweg 3, Amstelveen, tel. (+31) 206 42 96 83, amsterdam@unorest.nl, www.unorest.nl. Admission: €11.50 - €21.50. 54 

Amsterdam In

Your Pocket

Find your inner scientist at Science Center NEMO

DigiDaan

SCIENCE CENTER NEMO Look for the big green building jutting out into the water to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you were a kid again. The sounds of children’s laughter and unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels where visitors can learn about science without the boring textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhiShapes allows you to create new bition entitled World of Shapes allows shapes from triangles and squares and children can tower above their parents in the Ames room. You can also bring your own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or purchase food at the museum. A good museum shop is also available. QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33, in[email protected], www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00-17:30. Admission: €15, children under our ree. AK

SPEELTUIN PLAN WEST One of the city’s best-kept secrets can be found smack in the middle of West. Just look for a gate at Van Speijkstraat 65a, which leads to an enormous natural playground. Inside you’ll find a climbing rock, water fountains, tree huts and a sports field measuring 400m2. A litany of rules must be followed to ensure that the kids don’t have too much fun. QVan Speijkstraat 65, www.aandeslaginspeeltuin.nl. Open 12:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-1 12:00 -17:00. 7:00. Closed Mon. T

TUNFUN SPEELPARK  In what looks like a disused underground metro station lies Tun Fun, a children’s paradise. If you can’t find it just follow the steady stream of families, children’s parties and school excursions into the depth of this enormous playground that includes slides, climbing labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines and other atrractions.  The screams of the children can be a bit overwhelming at times but internet access and cans of beer at the café help keep the cacaphony of pre-pubescant chatter at bay. Adults are only admitted with children and only have to pay an entrance fee for their kids.QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www.tunun.nl. Open 10:0018:00. Admission: kids €7.50, adults ree. KW amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Centrum Map

Centrum Map

Holland Highlights If you’re you’re looking for a short shor t day trip from Amsterdam or perhaps a journey farther afield, we have a few suggestions.

Alkmaar Kaasmarkt (Cheese Market) Yes, it’s true. Hoorn, Gouda, Woerden and Edam have them, too, but if you’d like to see Holland’s most renowned cheese market, you have to go to Alkmaar. Every Friday huge wheels o cheese are cheese are carried around and weighed on the old town market, which is quite the sight. The market is held every Friday 10:00 - 12:30 from April to the Beginning of September. Trains depart from Amsterdam for Alkmaar four times every hour hour..

Delft Yes, there’s also an Oude Kerk (Old Church), but the Nieuwe Kerk  is  is where all the deceased members of the Dutch royal family are buried. Even legendary William of Orange rests here for all eternity. It’s quite impressive and a must-see if you’re in Delft as is the Royal Delt actory tour. tour . See how Holland’s most famous blue porcelain has been made for centuries (www.ro (www.royaldelft.com). yaldelft.com).

Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem) Sick of the same museums around Museumplein in Amsterdam? The Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem displays an amazing collection of paintings by Dutch old masters and masters and is the museum to visit if you appreciate Dutch Golden Age art. Haarlem is close to Amsterdam and trains run frequently between the two cities.

Photo courtesy of Zaanse Schans

Sint Janskerk (Maastricht) If you really want to travel as far from the city as possible without leaving the country then take a train all the way to the hilly south of the country where you can witness the pretty sights of Maastricht among its beer-loving residents.  The reddish reddish Gothic Gothic Sint Sint Janskerk is the city’s main highlight, highlight, but there are loads of other things to see like Roman orts (Fort Sint Pieter) and busy squares full of cafés.

Utrecht Museum De Lakenhal (Leiden) Come here for an incredible museum full of artefacts from the masters of the Golden Age. The old centre o Leiden is Leiden is also beautiful and worth a look. The city is about a 40-minute train ride from Amsterdam.

Rotterdam Schiphol is one of the busiest airports in the world, while Rotterdam is home to the world’s busiest harbour. Football champions Ajax have been sparring with Feyenoord for decades and while Amsterdam lives on its charming medieval buildings, Rotterdam was completely rebuilt after it was nearly levelled by bombs in WWII. If you’re tired of touristy Amsterdam and crave the sight of a large city with a modern skyline, skyline, then Rotterdam is the only option in the Netherlands. Take the high speed Fyra train from Amsterdam to Rotterdam in only 41 minutes.

Photo courtesy of the Alkmaar Cheese Market

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If you can’t get enough of the cute bunny drawings of Dick Bruna, the Miffy (Nijntje) Museum in Museum in Utrecht is the place to go. If not, you’ll almost certainly be annoyed by the small children and the flocks of Japanese tourists here. The city is also famous for its Roman beginnings, its incredibly tall church spire and its unique whar cellars. cellars. Trains to Utrecht depart Amsterdam frequently. frequently.

Volendam  The place place where where all the great great Dutch singers are are born, Volendam is basically a town of fishermen and boatloads of tourists wanting a taste of ‘real’ Dutch culture. You can dress up in traditional costumes here costumes here or wander about its beautiful streets. Take bus No.116 from the Central Station to Volendam. The trip takes about 30 minutes.

Zaanse Schans (Zaandam) But where are all the windmills? If you’ve asked this question in Amsterdam, you’re not the only one. In fact, Amsterdam doesn’t have that many and you won’t find any in the centre of town. We recommend a trip to Zaanse Schans, where you’ll have plenty of opportunities to spot one of Holland’s most endearing symbols. You’ll have to deal with crowds though as the well-preserved windmills and traditional houses here houses here attract almost a million visitors every year. Connexxion Connexxion bus No.391 departs from the Amsterdam Central Station every hour during the day. The trip takes about 40 minutes. You You can also take a train to Koog-Zaandijk station and then walk 15 minutes to Zaanse Schans. amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

 Venue  V enue index Abraxas 30 Akhnaton 24 Allard Pierson Museum 38 Alto Jazz Café 26 Ambassade Hotel 50 Amnesia 30 Amsterdam Canal Cruises 36 Amsterdam Central Public Library 42 Amsterdam Museum 38 Amsterdam Seed Center 33 Amsterdam Tulip Museum 38 Anne Frank House 38 Artis Royal Zoo 42 Backstage Hotel Amsterdam 53 Badhuis Javaplein 14 Bagels & Beans 10 Balls 27 Barney’s 31 Bazar 15 B&B All in the family 52 Bed & Guide Amsterdam 52 Beer Temple 21 Beurs van Berlage 18 Biblos 20 Bird 17 Bluebird 31 Bourbon Street 26 Brandstof 20 Brewers’ Canal 42 Brooklyn Hotel 51 Brouwerij De Prael 35 Brouwerij ‘t IJ 22 Brouwerij ‘t IJ 35 Bubbles & Wines 27 Bulldog No. 90 31 Bulldog Palace 31 Burgermeester 11 Café Americain 19 Café Belgique 21 Café Brandon 22 Café Casablanca 26 Café Chris 23 Café de Klos 10 Café de Koe 20 Café de Zwart 18, 19 Café Eik en Linde 23 Café Emmelot 20 Café George 18 Café Kobalt 18 Café Koosje 19

Café Kuijper 18 Cafe Lellebel 28 Café Papeneiland 23 Café Proust 14 Café Scheltema 19 Café Schiller 19 Café Sonneveld 18 Café Sound Garden 20 Café Thijssen 27 Caffe Milo 18 Canal Bus 36 Casa Rosso 24 Chambre Boot 53 Club-8 22 Club Church 28 Club Escape 24 Club Up 24 Coffeeshop 36 31 Conscious Hotel Museum Square 52 Coster Diamonds 39 Daar Baand 14 Dapperstraat Market 42 De 2 Grieken 13 De Bakkerswink Bakkerswinkel el 15 De Bierfabriek 22 De Bijenkorf Kitchen 11 De Italiaan 14 De Keu 22 De Koffie Salon 12 De Pilsener Club 23 De Pizzabakkers 16 De Ponteneur 14 De Spiegel 16 Diamant Museum Amsterdam 39 Dolphins 32 Door 74 25 DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Amsterdam Centraal Station 50 Drink ‘n’ Sink 20 Durgerdam 42 Dvars 25 EasyHotel Amsterdam Ferdinand Bolstraat 53 Easy Times 32 Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel 50 Erotic Museum Amsterdam 34 Espresso Hotel City Centre 52 EYE Film Institute 43 FEBO 16

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Fenan Klein Afrika 10 Flower Market 43 FOAM: Photography Museum Amsterdam 39 Frenzi Cucina 14 Gay Tourist Information Centre 28 Golden Brown Bar 17 Gollem’s Proeflokaal 21 Grasshopper 32 Gray Line 36 Greenhouse Centrum 32 Güllüoglu 17 Hermitage Amsterdam 39 Het Grachtenhuis 39 Het Karbeel 13 Het Ketelhuis 48 Holland Casino 23 Hortus Botanical Gardens 41 Hotel Iron Horse 52 Hotel Leidse Square Amsterdam 52 Hotel Mosaic 52 Hotel The Exchange 51 Hotel Vondel 51 House of Bols Cocktail and Genever Experience 36 Ibssa 13 In de Olofspoort 26 In de Wildeman 21 Jewish Historical Museum 37 Kamasutra 13 Kantjil & de Tijger 14 Katsu 32 Keramiek Atelier Marjoke de Heer 47 Kwekkeboom 10 La Tertulia 32 Librije Zusje 17 Lion of Judah 32 Los Pilones 15 Louis Bar 21 Lux 21 Madame Tussauds Amsterdam 35 Magic 33 Manneken Pis 13 Mata Hari 18 Merkur Casino 23 Molly Malone’s 25

Mulliner’s Wijnlokaal 27 Museum of Bags and Purses 40 Museum of the  Tropics  Tr opics 40 Nachttheater Sugar Factory 24 Nam Kee 12 National Maritime Museum Amsterdam 40 National Monument 43 New King 12 NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky 50 NL-Hotel Leidseplein 51 Noon 33 Noorderkerk 36 NYX 28 Old Church 33 Onder de Ooievaar 23 Paradox 33 Park Hotel Amsterdam 50 Pink Point & Homomonument 28 Plan B 22 Planet Rose 15 Players 27 Portuguese Synagogue 37 Prik 28 Proeflokaal De Ooievaar 26 Proeflokaal de Prael 22 Raïnaraï 16 Reality 29 Red Light Secrets 35 Rembrandt Statue 43 Renaissance Amsterdam Hotel 50 Resin 33 Rijksmuseum 34 Rodizio 11 Royal Palace Amsterdam 40 Sandton Hotel De Filosoof 51 Satellite Sports Café 27 Science Center NEMO 40, 54 SkyLounge 25 Skyy Bar 25 Snow Lion 17 Solo 33

Spang Makandra 17 Stayokay Amsterdam Zeeburg 53 Stedelijk Museum 41 St. Francis Xavier Church 37 Studio 2 12 Super Skunk 33  Taboo  T aboo 29  Teddy’s  T eddy’s Corner Corner 12  Temple  T emple Bar 25  The Bananen Bar & Club 24  The Butcher 11  The Dockworker 43  The Flying Pig Pig Uptown Hostel Amsterdam 53  The Little Darling 43  The Mexican 15  The Mint Tower 36  The Movies 48  The Old Church Church 34  The Pancake Pancake Bakery 16  The Parrot: Parrot: Church of Sts. Peter and Paul 37  The Pool Hole 22  The Rembrandt House Museum 34  Thermos Sauna 29  The Waterhole Waterhole 26 ‘t Lieverdje 12  Tony’s  T ony’s NY City City Bagels 10  Toro  T oro Dorado 16  Tourist  T ourist Inn 53  Tuschinski  Tusc hinski Theatre Theatre 36 Van Gogh Museum 34 Van Loon Museum 41 Vivelavie 29 Waterlooplein 43 Weber 21 Wertheim Park 42 Westerkerk 37 Westerpark 42 Whiskycafé L&B 27 Winston Kingdom 24 World Fashion Apartments 53 Wynand Fockink 26 Yamazato 15 Zuid Zeeland 13

 Autumn 2015

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