Ajedrez y Origami.pdf

INDICE DE DIAGRAMAS

Simbolos, Pliegues y Bases.....................Pag. 04 Piezas Ajedrez (Base del Pájaro).........Pag. 10 (por Joseph Wu)

Tablero de Ajedrez.................................Pag. 15 (por Marc Kirschenbaum)

Juego de Ajedrez Completo...................Pag. 22 (Por el Dr. Stephen O´Hanlon)

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Posición del papel: Color arriba.

Color abajo.

Papel de un solo color.

Pliegues y líneas básicas: Todos los pliegues tienen una representación gráfica que esta compuesta por un tipo de línea y una flecha asociada a ella, así que simplemente viendo el tipo de flecha o de línea sabremos como debemos doblar. Esto puede ser muy útil en aquellas zonas del libro donde por su pequeño tamaño no se sepa con seguridad si la línea que aparece es valle o montaña.

Tipo de línea.

Proceso de plegado.

Explicación.

Pliegue valle.

Consiste en doblar hacia delante, llevando un lado del papel sobre el otro.

Pliegue Monte.

Consiste en doblar hacia atrás, llevando un lado del papel sobre el otro.

Plegar y desplegar. ó

Esto en realidad no es un pliegue, son dos que se hacen uno tras otro. Consiste en doblar, bien sea en monte o en valle y acontinuación desdoblar. El resultado que queda es una marca.

Marca.

Las marcas son siempre el resultado de plegar y desplegar algo.

Rayos X.

Este tipo de línea, puede representar pliegues que se están haciendo en alguna capa de nuestro modelo que no podemos ver o bien marcarnos alguna línea del borde de la figura que está oculta.

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Pliegues compuestos: Consiste en un pliegue valle inmediatamente seguido por otro en monte. Su flecha asociada es quebrada y apunta en la dirección del valle.

Pliegue escalonado. y

Pliegue hundido.

Es una forma de invertir una punta, de forma que al terminar el hundido el modelo quede totalmente plano.

Pliegue hendido.

Es un pliegue muy similar al hundido, que generalmente se hace en las puntas para cambiarles la dirección.

Pliegue Vuelto.

Como en el caso anterior este proceso permite cambiear la dirección a una punta, pero en vez de doblar hacia el interior, se hace al exterior.

Pliegue en oreja de conejo.

Es un sistema sencillo para "adelgazar" una punta y al mismo tiempo cambiarla de dirección.

Doble oreja de conejo.

Consiste en dos orejas de conejo que se hacen al mismmo tiempo por cada lado de la punta.

Estirar.

Se coge el modelo por donde indican las manos y se estira hasta obtener el resultado mostrado en el siguiente paso.

Otros Símbolos importantes: Repetir tantas veces como rayas tenga la flecha.

Partes iguales.

Girar.

Volver el modelo.

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90º

Visión ampliada

Visión disminuida

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Esta parte del libro, pretende exponer algunas de las bases tradicionales que sirven para iniciar determinadas figuras y que evitan así el repetir estos pasos en el diagrama correspondiente.

BASES Base Cometa: 2.

1.

Base Bomba: 1.

2.

Base Preliminar: 1. 2.

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Base Pez: 1.

2. 4.

3.

5.

Base Pájaro: 1.

4. 2.

3.

Base Rana: 1.

5. Repetir 2-4 en los otros tres lados.

2.

3.

4.

6.

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Base Pájaro estirada: 1.

2.

4.

3.

5. Repetir 3 y 4. 6.

Base Blintz Pez: 2.

1.

6.

4. 5.

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3.

7.

Base Blintz Pájaro: 1.

2. 3.

4.

6.

7.

5.

8.

Base Blintz Rana: 1.

6.

2.

7.

3.

5.

4.

8.

9.

10.

Repetir 6-9.

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Juego de Ajedrez Base del Pájaro (by Joseph Wu) Start with a square, white side up.

2. Inside reverse folds.

1. Preliminary fold.

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3. Valley folds to the centre.

4. Fold and unfold. Knight and Rook start here.

5. Rabbit-ear. Repeat behind.

7. “Minor miracle”.

8. Rabbit-ear. Repeat Behind.

9. After step 8.

10. Squash each flap downward. Pawn and King start here.

11. Squash each flap upward.

12. After step 11. Bishop and Queen start here.

Juego de Ajedrez Base del Pájaro (by Joseph Wu) Pawn: Start after step 10 of page 1.

1. Flip each flap inward.

2. Mountain fold all eight flaps into the model.

3. Inflate the bottom to form a square base.

Bishop: Start after step 12 of page 1.

1. Fold and unfold all flaps.

2. Fold and unfold all flaps.

3. Rabbit-ear all flaps.

4. Fold all corners over the next flap.

5. Inflate the bottom to form a square base.

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Juego de Ajedrez Base del Pájaro (by Joseph Wu) Knight: Start after step 4 of page 1.

1. Fold front and back flaps over to one side.

2. Valley fold down.

3. Crimp.

4. Crimp.

5. Outside reverse fold.

6. Outside reverse fold.

7. Inside reverse fold.

8. Outside reverse fold, and tuck inside.

9. Inflate the bottom to form a square base.

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Juego de Ajedrez Base del Pájaro (by Joseph Wu) Rook: Start after step 4 of page 1.

1. Fold all flaps down.

2. Sink the tips of all flaps in half.

3. Fold all flaps up

4. Inflate the bottom to form a square base.

3. Inside reverse fold the right side of each flap.

4. Tuck the left corner of each flap into the pocket of the next flap.

Queen: Start after step 12 of page 1.

1. Fold all flaps down.

5. Valley fold tips up to form the crown. The tips will not lie flat.

2. Fold and unfold the corners of all flaps along existing creases.

6. Inflate the bottom to form a square base.

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Juego de Ajedrez Base del Pájaro (by Joseph Wu) King: Start after step 10 of page 1.

1. Squash fold each flap upward.

2. Narrow each flap with valley folds.

3. Inflate the bottom to form a square base.

The completed chess set. From left to right, the pieces are the pawn, the bishop, the knight, the rook, the queen, and the king. Actually, the pawn shown in the photo is an older version that did not have the long flaps tucked inside the model. The premise behind this series of chess pieces was to design a chess set that (a) could be folded from the same sized squares, (b) were 3D, and (c) were easily distinguishable. The first piece to be designed was the knight, followed by the pawn, the bishop, and the queen. The king caused me all sorts of problems, and I’m actually still not happy with its look. The rook came almost as an afterthought.

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Tablero de Ajedrez by Marc Kirschenbaum (NY)

1996

Complex A 25" square makes a 5" board

1. Pinch in half.

2. Pinch again.

3. Valley corner to crease.

4. Turn over.

5. Valley to intersection of raw edges.

6. Unfold.

7. Precrease section into fourths.

8. Precrease along diagonals.

1/4

10. Precrease the outer rows and columns. Rotate model.

9. Precrease, using the intersections of diagonals as a guide.

10. Divide each section further into fourths.

11. Add additional precreases (divide the indicated columns and rows in half). Rotate model.

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12. Valley the corners in (one unit).

13. Valley inwards. This fold is touching the folds made in step 11. Turn over.

14. Valley the edges to the nearest crease.

15. Valley, swinging the flap from behind to the forefront. 13-15

16. Turn over.

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17. Repeat steps 13-15 on the other side.

12-17

1/4

18. Turn over and rotate.

19. Repeat steps 12-17. 1/4

20. Valley in half while incorporating reverse folds. Rotate model.

21. Swivel in sides. The layers will overlap at the top corners.

22. Valley down.

23. Valley up.

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24. Valley down sides.

25. Wrap around top point, reversing at the bottom corners. Repeat on other side.

26. Squash. Repeat at other side.

1/4

27. Flip the square. Repeat at the other side.

28. Spread squash the bottom, allowing the side flaps to swing outwards.

29. View from step 28. Spread apart the pleats. Rotate model.

30. Reform, changing the direction of some of the folds. Form the horizontal mountain folds first. Repeat steps 29-30 at bottom.

31. Pull out single layer (you will have to raise the flap slightly to do this).

32. Open out the hem forming a squash at the top.

34. Mountain in half while incorporating reverse folds.

35. Swivel in the sides.

31-32

33. Repeat steps 31-32 on the remaining three hems.

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22-30

36. Repeat steps 22-30.

37. Valley outwards.

38. Turn over.

39. Valley outwards.

40. Valley up.

41. Wrap a single layer around at each side.

42. Pull out a single layer at the three indicated flaps.

43. At the left, reverse the corner back in (you will have to raise the flap slightly). On the other side, swivel over the hem, squashing the corners.

44. Swing down.

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45. Spread squash the corner. The section will not lie flat.

46. Close back up.

47. Closed sink the top corner while collapsing the bottom point and swinging it upwards.

48. Swing down.

49. Valley back up while incorporating a reverse fold.

50. Valley down.

51. Unsink a single layer

52. Open out slightly and release a single layer.

53. Wrap around a single layer.

54. Reverse fold (you will have to raise the flap slightly to do this).

55. Swing flap up.

56. Collapse the flap downwards.

57. Swing down lightly.

48-59

58. Swivel over.

59. Swing back up.

61. Crimp the side squares inwards while collapsing the center square downwards. Allow the squares to interlock.

62. Open out, folding the center square out of the way.

64. Collapse all of the squares inwards, using the folds from step 61. At 64 steps, this will work out to one step per square.

65. Completed Chess Board ©1996 Marc Kirschenbaum

44-47

60. Repeat steps 48-59 at the left and 44-47 at the right.

40-62

63. Repeat steps 40-62 at the top.

This model was inspired by the successful chess boards of Stephen Casey and John Montroll. I am especially thankful to John, for sharing his trials and tribulations with this subject matter.

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