AFV Modeller 97 2017-11-12 - Superunitedkingdom

December 16, 2018 | Author: joausmaximus | Category: Paint, Acrylic Paint, Camouflage, Paintings, Tanks
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AFV 97...


97 NOV/DEC NOV/ DEC 201 2017 7 • £6.50 UK $15.99  www.mengafvmodeller .com


P A N Z E R I V A U S F. F. J






In The Devil’s Hands Pete Usher’s dramatic Eastern Front scene.

The End is Near  Andy Gulden retur ns with another stunning 1:16 scene.

Buffalo Soldier Manuel Reiner creates a unique 1:35 StuG III.

Panzerkampfwagen IV IV Pa Part 15 15  The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.


Señor Patton Sean M. Lynch adds a Spanish twist to Takom’s new M47.


Keeping Track   New releases.


Syrian Shilka We see how Hong Model’s Shilka shapes up.

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by   AFV Modeller Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES  Tel:  T el: 01670 01670 823648 823648 Fax: 01670 820274

We are now on Facebook, ‘Like’ us to follow what we are doing and follow our  build projects.

Editor and Designer: David Parker  email: [email protected] Deputy Editor: Mark Neville email: [email protected] Sales Director: Keith Smith email: [email protected] Proof Reading: Jim Chandler ISSN 2059-4305

 AFV Modeller Modeller welcomes welcomes contribution contributions s from interested interested parties, parties, but cannot accept accept any  responsibility for unsolicited material.  The contents contents of this publication publication including including all all articles, articles, drawings drawings and photographs photographs originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law. Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every  care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors or ommissions.






In The Devil’s Hands Pete Usher’s dramatic Eastern Front scene.

The End is Near  Andy Gulden retur ns with another stunning 1:16 scene.

Buffalo Soldier Manuel Reiner creates a unique 1:35 StuG III.

Panzerkampfwagen IV IV Pa Part 15 15  The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.


Señor Patton Sean M. Lynch adds a Spanish twist to Takom’s new M47.


Keeping Track   New releases.


Syrian Shilka We see how Hong Model’s Shilka shapes up.

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by   AFV Modeller Modeller ltd Old Stables East Moor Stannington Northumberland NE61 6ES  Tel:  T el: 01670 01670 823648 823648 Fax: 01670 820274

We are now on Facebook, ‘Like’ us to follow what we are doing and follow our  build projects.

Editor and Designer: David Parker  email: [email protected] Deputy Editor: Mark Neville email: [email protected] Sales Director: Keith Smith email: [email protected] Proof Reading: Jim Chandler ISSN 2059-4305

 AFV Modeller Modeller welcomes welcomes contribution contributions s from interested interested parties, parties, but cannot accept accept any  responsibility for unsolicited material.  The contents contents of this publication publication including including all all articles, articles, drawings drawings and photographs photographs originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law. Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every  care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors or ommissions.


In The

Devil’s 2



P E T E U S H E R ’ S D R A M AT I C A W A R D - W I N N I N G V I G N E T T E


Beast Killer ISU-152 was a Russian fixed turret fully 

losses to German armour frustration

German SS forces pulling frightened

enclosed assault gun also capable of 

grew around the JSU and they were

Russians out of a disabled JSU. The

serving as a tank-destroyer. The

seen as a real prize to knock out and

crew were clearly in a perilous

Russian army used the JSU until the

the Germans could only dream of 

situation. Using out the box figures

1970s. Reading the reference I had, I

capturing the crew of one of these

 was clearly out of the question, so I

found out this vehicle received an

mighty beasts.

interesting nickname ‘’The Beast Killer’

I wanted to depict a scene of high

this was earned for its ability to knock 

emotion in a relatively small

out the heaviest of German tanks,

environment. The composition of the

many of which were named after 

diorama was going to be critical to

animals, such as elephant, rhinoceros

give a clear story and portray the

(Nashorn) Panther and of course Tiger!

feelings of the troops involved.

With this new tank causing massive

knew some converting and sculpting  was going to be needed. I bought two Tamiya JSU-152 kits, one  would be a dummy kit so the figures could be sculpted to fit perfectly.

 The idea soon solidified in my mind of 

C o m p o s e Yo u r s e l v e s During the sculpting phase, I knew there would be a lot of manhandling of the kit plus putty and talcum powder used. These are all not great materials to have left around for a flawless airbrushed finish! The ‘disposable’ JSU was only basically assembled; if it didn’t interact with the figures or the level of the vehicle, I didn’t attach it.

 The key to any diorama is composition. All the figures must interact, and a natural symmetry between them is essential to building a story. The figures in the diorama were based on those from Evolution and Dragon. The base figures received different degrees of conversion ranging from  just newly sculpted arms to others needing almost completely new uniforms. All the new limbs were made from wire armatures covered in two layers of Magic Sculp. All figures were given new heads from the Hornet range. Some bald heads were needed for the right expression on the faces, so magic sculp was also used to create the disheveled hair of the tank  crew. Once undercoated all the figures were painted with Vallejo acrylics. 4

Dirty Thirty-three

 After first using ‘the hairspray technique’ to achieve the basis of the worn whitewash I continued to add depth to the worn finish. Each panel was first lightly  dampened with enamel thinner, then random spots of white Humbrol No 34 were applied.

Black brown LS09 oil paints from Wilder were heavily thinned and fed into the recesses to isolate the panel in a pin wash fashion. These paints are really nice to use and dry with a  very matt finish.

 The white spots were then gently dragged and blended into the panel; this gives a nice uneven white dimension.

 After the washes were applied I was able to retur n  with the white and add more intensity in selected areas, here the white still needs blending with thinner.

Dark Green LS15 with a little LS 16 faded green from the same range was added in small amounts around the edge of the panel this was then blended inward towards the centre of  the panel. LS18 basic earth added to the centre of the panel gives a nice muted effect.

I wanted the ‘beast killer’ to look like it had

hand painted on by the crew.

original green in most parts. From here on

seen many months in the field, so an

Once this stage was complete; several

in I changed my approach, I would

extremely worn look was planned. I have

layers of cheap hairspray was applied to

normally work each weathering stage

always had good results from Tamiya

the entire kit. Tamiya white mixed with

across the entire vehicle. Instead, I almost

 Acrylics so used them for the initial painting

 Tamiya Earth were sprayed in a patchy 

completed each panel individually before

stages. I knew most of the original Russian

manner over the main body of the kit. On

moving onto the next. After only a few

green would be obscured and covered with

the sides of the tank, the whitewash was

panels I found I really enjoyed the panel by 

the following techniques, but I still used a

removed with a damp brush in the

panel system. I also found that as I worked

mild modulation effect to highlight areas

opposite direction to which the tank would

around the tank my techniques slightly 

towards the upper surfaces and picked out

have been travelling. To further erode the

changed and improved, I’m sure we get

some raised points with a lighter green

 winter paint I used the edge of some fine

better with each kit we make. This

mixture. As I had two sets of decals from

point tweezers to make scratches in the

technique almost made each panel like an

the two kits I could make the number 33,

thin paint while it was still soft. Flat

individual model yet relating to the panel

these were hand painted over the top and

surfaces were gently scrubbed to

before and after it.

some artistic license was used to alter the

represent crew movement, most of the flat

shapes slightly to make them look more

surfaces were almost taken back to the


Streaking Grime from the Mig range was used to age the scratches and the bullet strikes on the hull.

 To create scuffs and scratches through to the original green factory finish, Vallejo black-green black-green was used both with a fine brush and a small piece of torn sponge using a ‘dabbing’ action.

Base washes of brown tones and an oily black around the outlet formed the basis of the exhausts.

More pigments came into play with a heavy build up of earth around the lower hull. Various tones give the dry and wet effects.


Heavier applications of pigments give a realistic ‘sooty’ finish.

With the presence of round strikes on the front of the tank, I thought it might be a good idea to have the front lamp looking worse for wear   with a smashed front glass cover. I needed a reflective mirror that sits in the back of the lamp.  This is how I made it. Domestic tin foil shiny side down was pressed over the end of a rounded paint brush. Run a modelling knife a few millimeters down and around the top of the brush, then lift off the small foil dish shape.  The foil dish is placed into the light housing and the light bulb and  wires fitted can then be added.  The hanging out bulb and wires  were from my spares box.

G r o u n d e d

 As the focal point of the scene is the figures groundwork was kept minimal. After forming a raised edging to contain the earth mixture I assembled the basic materials. Sculpt-a-mold, fine earth and sand, fine plant roots.

 A base layer of sculpt-a-mold mixed  with water and a little white glue can then be spread out over a styrene base.

 The second layer of sculpt-a-mold was mixed with dark brown and black  acrylics. Large tubes of paint can be bought from large hobby shops. This is a better option than using the smaller Model paints. The sculpt-a-mold can absorb a fair amount of paint before it reaches a nice ‘muddy’ consistency.  This can be spread out over the white layer below.

 To create the correct ‘sit’ of the vehicle, I wrapped the kit in Once the base was dry (48 hours) a layer of  cling film and pushed it into the soft base material. The kit can thinned PVA glue was brushed over. Then dry plant then be removed after a few hours when the sculpt-a-mold pot earth was sprinkled over the area. has started to harden but by no means cured.

 The kit tracks were used to recreate the track marks in the ground where the tank  had been before grinding to a halt.



In The

Devil’s Hands



 WHEN Trumpeter

announced a 1/16 scale

Panzer IV H, I hoped a J model would soon follow. Only a few months later my wishes were granted and I immediately purchased one and cleared off the work bench to begin this journey.  A battle weary tank, crew and infantry, surviving the last months of the war, was the perfect setting to place this iconic vehicle of World War II




 The Kit

 The Build

 Trumpeter’s 1/16 scale tanks have been

I stared the construction by basically 

 well received by the f ans of the larger 

following all the steps need to build the

an ill-timed computer gremlin ran away 

scale. They provide a nice option for an out

interior and close up the model before

 with any pictures of the final product, so

of the box build or a solid base for a super 

concentrating on the exterior. Knowing I

 you’ll have to take my word for it!

detailed project. I have taken an approach

 was placing the model in a diorama, I did

somewhere in the middle. Without many 

not put the same effort into correcting or 

after-market option for detailing, much of 

detailing the interior as the editor of this

my improvements needed to be scratch

magazine is doing! I was going for just

built using good old modelling techniques.

enough character that could be seen from

I knew the Schürzen needed some

the various open hatches, omitting the

attention and a few details had to added or 

engine completely, as it would not be

cement was brushed over the affect to

removed to make this a January 1945

seen. I built the interior per the instructions

smooth out the rough texture. Not quite

production model. Trumpeter has seemed

only adding Aber MG barrels. The radio

satisfied with the result, Mr Surfacer 500

to give you a very late model, which only a

received a few wires to make it look the

 was stippled on with an old brush to bring

handful were produced at the very end of 

part. When the construction was finished,

the war. I will highlight the changes I made

everything was painted with the standard

as I go along.

off white and red primer colours using  various Tamiya acrylics and weathered it to


an appropriate level of use. Unfortunately,

Once the hull and turret were closed up, I  was able to concentrate on the exterior. Before I started the detail work, I textured the steel plates by bouncing a Dremel tool  with a large gr inding bit. Tamiya extra thin

it up to spec.


P A N Z E R I V A U S F. J

Following the directions for the most part but adding details as I go, the rest of the construction  went pretty well. The following areas received a little extra refinement • Aber fire extinguisher was added • Aber gun cleaning rods for the King Tiger were modified down to size • Aber tool clamps • Scratch built tool holders and stops from scrap photo etch frets • Replaced grab handles with appropriate sized brass rod • Aber Muzzle break for the main gun • Scratch built gun cleaning rod brackets from brass stock and Aber clamps • Nuts and bolts from Meng were used to detail the various Schürzen brackets • Various weld beads made from 2-part epoxy and shaped with a wet cocktail stick  • Modified the jack block to the last configuration seen using a spring and chain strap • Removed one front fender and made the other  workable with homemade hinges


New woven mesh screen and brackets  was a big improvement to the look of the shurtzen screens compared to the the original kit  versions on the left .

 To add a bit of interest two of the r oad wheels received some

With the help of the Panzer Track volume on the PZ IV, H and J

damage in the form of a fractured section and stripping one of 

models, I could, rather accurately, dimension the mesh wire size

the outer rubber sections. The driver’s side front fender was

and spacing. I was lucky to find some #30 stainless steel mesh

heated ever so slightly with a candle flame and the soft plastic

from an industrial supply warehouse that worked perfectly. I

 was twisted and bent to show some battle damage. Some of the rivet detail needed to be replaced following these modifications.

scaled up the Panzer Track drawing to 1/16 scale and went about building them with plastic strip and brass stock bent to the appropriate shapes. I was pretty satisfied with the results, as they 

One area I knew I that need some attention was the Schürzen  wire mesh screens on the hu ll. The Trumpeter effort in thi s area

 were a big improvement over th e kit parts. It was now off to the paint shop.

 was less than ideal. They were under detailed, and very toy li ke.

Painting Per my usual steps, I started with a good coat of Tamiya grey  primer from the can and pre-shaded all the corners, panel joints


and even some flat yellow plus a few drops of white in spots.  Always being careful to keep the lightest colours on highest

and running gear with a mixture of Tamiya NATO Black and Flat

surfaces. Late war J’s seem to have a pretty constant, factory 

Earth before applying the base coat. Knowing the weathering

applied camouflage pattern. Armed with some good quality 

process was going to be rather extreme on this tank I opted for a

reference pictures I proceeded to lay down the camo colours the

rather bright combination of colours. The Dark yellow base was

best I could. I mixed the green and brown using various Tamiya

built up from various colours starting with Tamiya Khaki and

paints being mindful to keep them as light as possible without

building up of light coats of Dark Yellow, Dark Yellow and white

changing the tone value of each.

 Weathering My first step in the weathering process was to create a thick 

treatments. AK washes and pigments finished up the streaking

buildup of mud along the hull sides and running gear. A mixture

and overall grime of hull. Once a satisfied result was achieved,

of Celluclay, fine sand, white glue and earth toned acrylic paints  were mixed up and liberally applied in logical locations were mud would collect. Once dry, many applications of thin washes

the same treatment was given to the road wheels and tracks. I  won’t bore you with the repetitive nature of the rest of the  weathering but the standard filters, chips, washes and pigments

using Tamiya Flat Earth, Flat Brown and NATO Black thinned with

finished up the process. I decided to add some interest and I

tap water were brushed on until a proper look was achieved. I

applied a different camo pattern and a scruffy white wash to one

decided to add a final layer of grit using the new AK Interactive

on the turret Schürzen plates. Detail painting of the tools and

“Dark Earth” Terrain. This added a nice scale top layer for further

accessories completed the model.


 At this point it was ti me to modify the figures to fit the tank and start thinking about the base before the  weathering went too far. This is also a good time to arrange and place all the external gear and accessories that will add some character.

Base  A thick layer of the same mud mix  used on the hull was built up on the foam base. While still wet, broken twigs, tree roots, small stones and a  wire fence were pushed into the base. After letting this mess dry for  an hour or so, the tank was placed in

• Used Apoxy-Sculpt to make the  various tarps. • Sourced spare track from a Remote Control manufacture. • Built and painted a fuel drum and Jerry cans f rom Classy Hobby. • Built up ground work with foam insulation and framed the sides  with bass wood. • Contoured and smoothed out the ground work using plaster.


its final position, allowing it to sink   just a bit into the ground work. The same color treatment as the tank’s mud was applied to the ground work, resulting in a nice continues finish.

 AK’s new 2-part resin water kit was used to build up a few locations of standing water. I fol lowed the directions and built up the affect in thin layers, a few drops of Field Drab from Vallejo added a nice muddy  look . “Green Stuff World” leaf punch provided a nice detail with scale leaves punched from dried leaves. Figures  All 5 figures n eed a bit of work before painting could start. The standing tank commander is an Alpine offering that was con verted from Wehrmacht to SS.  The seated figures are from the outstanding but long out of production Tiger I set from S&T, sculpted buy  John Rosengr ant. They needed a bit of work to get them to fit on a Panzer IV, mostly by adding some


bulk to the bottom of their jackets were they sat on the  various surfaces. The grenadier standing on the ground is from Jeff Shiu and was a visibly larger than the others so a bit of his legs and boot were sanded off to get him close to the same size. As long as you don’t place near the others, it’s hard to tell the difference. One a good coat of primer was applied, the base was sprayed using various Tamiya greens and grays. Vallejo Model Color was then used for the highlight, shadows and accessories. Artist oils were used for all flesh tones. Some wire pins and two-part epoxy  secured them to the various surfaces.

 This was a fun overall project and I was pretty happy   with the result. As trumpeter keeps bringing the larger  scale vehicles, they’ll keep making their way onto my   work bench.



 WHEN I stumbled across the excellent book “Sturmgeschützbrigade 191” by Bruno Bork I immediately fell in love with the subject. The units from the so called Büffel-Brigade (Buffalo brigade) modified their StuGs  with a layer of additional steel welded to the hull and fender. Besides that the commander’s copula received a projectile deflector and all the empty spaces behind the field-applied armour were filled with concrete for further protection.

With all the modifications these vehicles almost looked like small Jagdpanthers and this unique look was my main motivation to create this model.  Techniques like the hairspray technique offer us some very realistic effects, but I still struggle when it comes to painting soft materials like cloth and figures. When you reach a certain level of quality and knowledge it’s very hard to work outside your comfort zone. It’s too easy to just repeat what you are used to and so I wanted to challenge myself with lots of stowage and two crew figures. Maybe this build can inspire some of you to look out for unique subjects and also to challenge yourself while working on your weak  spots. I swore a lot during process, smashed the model into pieces thanks to a small accident and repainted the figures two times, but in the end I learned a lot, gained more confidence and best of all, I finished a model with a strong emotional connection. Let me guide  you through the project.


M a n u e l

R e i n h e r ’s

B ü f f e l - B r i g a d e

S t u G



Using the nice StuG III G from Dragon I decided to scratch build the add-on armour using thin plastic card. After the application the weld seams were created using ProCreate putty. To structure the welds I used a round profile rod attached to a pine vice.

Nice resin casts from Legend  were used as a base for the stowage. Additional items from different brands and tarps made from ProCreate filled the rest of the empty  deck.


 After the welds dried I filled the empty space behind the amour with “concrete” using also Pro-create. The surface was textured with a  wire brush. ProCreate is a two component putty, but I’m sure other  brands will work with similar results.

 To show the extra weight and tell the story of a veteran I lowered the suspension. As the Dragon kit has adjustable suspension arms that task was quite easy. Simply glue the first and last roadwheel in the desired position and once dry   you can adjust all the other  roadwheels to the right position.

 After a short bath in soapy water it was time to start the compressor. I didn’t use primer, instead I mixed a red/brown colour using Tamiya paints. To get a nice smooth surface I added FX-22 clear to the paint and sprayed it with my  airbrush thinned with lacquer thinner. A quick misting of AK Satin varnish unified the surface.

For the dark-yellow I used a mix of Mig 0011 & Mig 012 thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner. I did a very subtle modulation to separate the structural details changing the mix between the two colours.

 The whole vehicle received a layer of hairspray which I decanted into a dropper style to spray it using my airbrush for greater control. The hairspray  provides an ‘unstable’ base for further colours.

 After that I used several old brushes and blades to carefully work the surface  with warm water revealing the first layers of colour. I tried to stay as much in scale as possible.


 After the base chipping is done another layer of hairspray was applied. Now I mixed two camouflage colours using for the brown: Model Air 71.249 & Mig 014, and for the green: Mig 003 & Model Air 71.250.  According to the book by Bruno Bork the vehicles arrived at the front in dark 

For the markings I used home-made stencils. I chose a suitable font and printed the numbers on a piece of paper. After that I traced the numbers onto a piece of Tamiya masking tape and applied the mask to the model.

 yellow. To represent this, the camouflage was applied in a very random and patchy style. Once I was happy with the look I started the chipping treatment of the two camo colours.

For this model I started the weathering with a different approach. Instead of working my way  through different steps I tried to include as many  effects in a single work session limited to specific area of the vehicle. This way I was able to get an early idea about how the final model will look like, and also the process is more creative and flexible than following a strict order of steps. My preferred weathering tools are oil colours.

 They are cheap, very flexible in use and because of  their drying time you have very good control of your  effects. I placed a range of colours on a piece of  cardboard (to draw out excess oil) and started to place small amounts of colours to a specific section of the vehicle. Weathering like filters, washes, chips, first layers of dirt and rust effects were created in a single session.

 To keep me motivated I switched tasks and worked on the worn, chipped wood which is part of the stowage. Small strips of wood were darkened with thinned acrylic colour and then the excellent Distress Paint from ‘Ranger’ was applied in an even coat. During the drying process the very realistic cracks appeared. The planks were painted individually and once assembled, the whole element received a treatment with oil colours.

My goal was a vehicle operating in the autumn/spring time and therefore mud and dirt is an essential element. I wanted to test some of the new products available and started with TE08 Light Grey Earth from Wilder applied using an old brush.


 Ammo of Mig Heavy Mud was used to define the surface further. I speckled the paste to the lower  sections of the model. Using white spirit as a thinner I also applied the mix to the road wheels.  Although I really liked the effect on the roadwheels the lower hull didn’t satisfy me.

For the tracks I used ‘Blacken-it’ for the first time. The application is quite easy and I really  liked the result. An old toothbrush helped to  work the agent into every corner. After a few minutes the tracks show a nice base for  further weathering.

In the end I switched back to good old pigments to create the muddy texture. Using  various pigments applied dry I built up the mud layer. A few drops of thinner, applied with a pipette fixed everything in place. Although not durable still this method works best for me.

With the initial weathering done I switched once again to oils and added streaks of rust and dirt. I simply painted some runs in suitable dark brown and rust colours.  Then I blended the streaks in a  vertical movement using an almost dry clean brush.

One big challenge for me was the stowage. I’ve never done it in this amount, and painting soft materials such as cloth is still something I find tricky. After a base coat with my   Airbrush I painted each piece using th in layers of acrylics from Vallejo. After the painting it was weathered like the rest of  the vehicle. The fuel barrel made out of  zinc was painted using the very nice range of metal colours from Games Workshop. It was weathered using oils and some gloss varnish around the cap area.

Disaster strikes as I managed to knock the model from my workbench! After a cold beer and a nights sleep I tackled the repair work which required some retouching of paint damage after restoring some welds and cementing parts back in place.

 As Büffel means ‘buffalo’ in German I added a slightly modified resin skull from Mantis. This detail helped to personalize t he vehicle further.

 To enhance the look of the mud areas I paid special attention to a wide variety of textures. I cut small pieces of hemp for the imitation of dried grass and fixed them using the mud colours from Mig.

 Additionally paper leaves from Plusmodel and leaves cut with the punch sets from RPToolz were strategically placed to the model and fixed with super glue. After that they were blended in with the mud colors.


 The last important element I wanted to add were the crew figures. It has been seven years since I finished my last figures so it felt like starting from scratch again. The crew is from the ‘Tank’ range, I improved one of the heads using an excellent item from Alpine and added some further details with Magic Sculp. The crew was painted  with acrylics from Ammo and Vallejo. I started the uniforms by airbrushing a light and dark   version of the base colour using my airbrush. Then I painted the green and brown patches using reference images. The patches were highlighted and all the details outlined with a dark brown color. Once I was happy I added thin rainmarks using a brown colour. Using a high quality brush and carefully diluted paint is a must for tasks like this.



Panzerkampfwagen David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit  This installment involves a little jumping about between different areas as the time to start thinking about paint approached. I needed to complete parts of the electrical system that are mounted on the engine bulkhead and with several variations for  the position of these parts, quite a bit of research was needed before I was happy to proceed. Next it was back into the engine bay looking at heat shields to protect various components from

Part Fifteen

the heat of the exhaust manifolds. This marked the end of the construction phase of the engine bay at least and considering the future progress of the project it seemed like an appropriate time to think about some painting. To minimise the need for masking it seemed to be sensible to pre-paint the separate inner floor panel and whilst I had the airbrush running to also paint some of the other completed internal parts.

 The battery starting change over switch is mounted on th e firewall. It appears that the exact position for this and the master switch differs depending on the air filter choice and possibly manufacturing factory. The basic shape was constructed from squares of plastic.

 To form the connection points for the cables I simply crimped the ends of the cables using a pair of pliers.


I set about adding detail to the change over switch with ABER photoetched screw heads and plastic rod for the various connections. The connection points are covered with a protective plate which I made from brass sheet and self-adhesive aluminum foil for the wiring diagram placard mounted on it.

 As the postion of the switch varies so does the location of the electrical cables. I used 1.5mm lead wire to make the cable and using 5 minute epoxy  glue to firmly secure it in position. As I was not planning to detail the battery  connection below the floor this crude fixing was ideal. At this stage I was unaware that my change over switch was too wide and would need to be corrected.

 The switch is test fitted to finalise the position of the cables.

 And the cover test fitted too. At this stage I began to realise that I would need to shorten the width of my switch to bring it into scale, something that is always a danger when you are estimating sizes.

 The revised switch is considerably narrower and closer in width to the heater   vent on the firewall.

 Another component of the tank’s electrical system is the master switch which is also a part who’s position varied. Evidence for the Ausf.H suggests that it is mounted to the side of the air intake on a bracket.

 The master switch is construc ted from plastic with some spare photoetched fret used to construct the bracket.

Back to the engine bay now where I constructed this heat shield for the exhaust pipe from brass sheet. These thin sheet metal parts don’t usually  survive and initially I thought it was mounted on the rear wall with this bracket.

 This was not correct so the bracket was adapted to attach to the engine it  what seemed like a logical way, a certain amount of guesswork being needed.

 The rear wall bracket was in fact to mount another heat shield which protected the electrical boxes mounted in the corner of the hull.

 The shield was again constructed from brass sheet because it was easy to bend to shape and yet strong once the mounting bracket is soldered in place.




I needed to make a new universal joint for the engine flywheel because the kit part really did not look correct or suitable to adapt so I had to start from scratch. 1 Starting with a big section of square plastic rod I drilled out the centre hole and I used a burr in a motor toll to cut away the curve at the base. 2  The shape was refined and the mouth of the joint cut open. 3  The





sides of the plastic were trimmed away to the correct size. 4  The rounded shape was then created using sponge sanding pads. 5 Discs of plastic were added where the central bar fits and this bar was salvaged from the kit part.  The cast texture was added using a coat of Mr Surfacer. 6  The joint was trimmed off the plastic rod and mounted on a disc.


I modified the other connector on the drive shaft by rounding the edges and adding the pair of plastic discs. Whilst not entirely accurate it is likely to be hidden from view on the finished model.

 Another last minute job in the engine bay was the wiring frame to carry the electrical output cables from the auxiliary generator, made from strip with squares of plastic for the cable clamp points.

Some final missing details on the engine were the heat shields which protect components from the heat of the exhaust manifold. This shield for the oil tank   was formed from some aluminium foil with three ribs embossed lengthways.  Two plastic card supports were used to mount it at an angle onto the oil tank.

 The dynamo also has its own shield with a slot to accommodate the tensioner. The shield is bolted onto the dynamo mounting straps by two bolts. In order to get this to fit I had to remove the electrical outlet socket from the dynamo so that it could be repositioned below the shield.

Left  The

new outlet socket was constructed from plastic rod and fitted to the dynamo with a pre-drilled hole in the outlet for it to be wired up at a later  stage. Below Finally

it seemed an appropriate time to consider fixing the inner hull in place and before doing so, to get some paint applied to the interior while the parts were still separate. I began by applying a primer of Mr Oxide Red Surfacer 1000 to the areas that had yet to be primed like the firewall and engine bay walls. The separate inner floor made this easy and I only had to mask the colour split where the firewall is positioned. Although this gives a good colour I then applied Vallejo Cavalry red over the primer as this would permit me to easily brush paint any parts or repair the paintwork with a perfect match. For the interior Ivory I used Lifecolour UA232 Elfenbein which I think best replicates the real thing. Both colours were sealed with a coat of  Satin varnish.

Dry fitting the main parts of the engine bay. Happily all the pin marks and filled holes on the rear plate are now invisible.

 The engine was given an overall coat of Gunze RLM66 during which I managed to drop it causing severe damage to the oil cooler. It could have been so much worse and I was able to repair the damaged parts and finish the painting of the engine.

Constant handling of the firewall over the months had caused some damage  which needed to be repaired. In the course of this I removed the access doors and added the insulating strips to the lips of the doors. Flattened lead  wire was used as it was easy to shape around the corners.


With the repairs made and the doors refitted the crew side of the firewall was given a coat of Lifecolor Elfenbein.

With painting underway it made sense to paint other parts of the interior that  were complete like the transmission which was painted in Gunze RLM 75

 The internal floor could now be glued in place and I began to add the internal welds which form the hull. Rolled lengths of Magic Sculp were positioned in the hull.

I used my own tool made from brass tube to texture the putty and the excess was cleaned away.

 The welds were then brushed over with a wet brush to blur and soften the pattern to give this finished effect. Right Once the putty has dried I brush painted a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer  1500 Grey over the welds. This seals any gaps and enhances the soft effect of the pattern.


Keeping the batch painting going I dealt with the battery start switch, primer pump and fuel valve, using a base coat of Alclad. the placards on the fuel valve were brush painted.

 The Battery start switch could now be installed on the firewall and the cables clamped in place with some plastic bolts courtesy of the RP Toolz Hex Punch and Die. Once these were painted the protective cover  could be fitted.

 A small detail that I almost overlooked were the internal bracings for the suspension bump stops inside the hull. These are hidden by the fuel tanks in the centre of the hull but are visible in the engine bay and in the bow.

 The restricted access to the base of the bulkhead made adding welds using putty difficult so I used sections of Slater’s plastic rod in these area which  were then soaked with liquid cement to create a weld texture.

 To begin fitting out the engine bay I started to add the electrical cables for  the generator. These were made from a woven cable supplied as tow rope in  Tamiya’s 1:48 tank kits. The colour coding rings were made using Albion  Alloys aluminium tube which was cut open and crimped around the cables.

 The firewall was given a subtle wash prior to being installed in the hull while it  was still easy to access all the details.

 The new welds were then painted to match the rest of the engine bay and the floor was weathered using a mix of splatters and puddled oil. The initial oil spatters were made with Lifecolour oil and the bigger puddles and drips were applied using Wilder Old Grease.

 The cables were painted using Vallejo dull aluminium and the rings painted to match the colours used in the original vehicle. Cable clamps were added using strips of aluminium foil with photoetched bolts.

 The project continues in the next Issue




 The M47 was the result of the U.S. needing a new line of tanks early in the

included fire control upgrades as well as

I have known for a while that I wanted to

the diesel engine from the M60. The most

make a Spanish M47 with the 105mm

 visible aspect of this upgrade is the new

gun. I like the idea of a tank that was built

of the M26 and M46 tanks that would

engine deck for the diesel engine. Some

in the early 1950’s being upgraded as far 

have been used in other theatres of 

nations continued to upgrade the M47 to

as it could go and keeping pace with the

operation. The hope was to have

give similar performance of the M60 and

M60 line. I chose the Spanish version

fitted a 105mm main gun. The Spanish

since they took it past the development

1950’s as the war in Korea required many 

developed the T42 for service, but as the need for tanks was greater than the time

 Army chose to upgrade some of their 

to develop a new tank, the turret for the

M47’s with the Rheinmetall 105-30

 T42 was mated with the M46 hull. Over 

smoothbore main gun to create the

Once I received the Takom M47 E/M I

8500 M47’s were produced between 1951

M47E2. Many nations also eliminated the

began construction and quickly 

and 1953. The M47 never saw combat

assistant driver and coax machine gun

assembled most of the hull and

service in Korea and was soon replaced in

and used that space for a crew heater 

suspension. While I was working on the

U.S. inventories by the M48. The M47’s

and extra ammunition stowage.

hull, I contacted Javier Villarroya via his

While the M47 has been used for years

email [email protected] (I don’t

 were then exported to many nations around the world. Though it was short lived in the U.S., the M47 served those nations it was exported to for many years

 with many nations and conf licts, modellers have only had the veteran Italeri M47 kit to  work with which dates back to the 1970’s.

believe he has a website for his products). Javier is from Spain and makes resin conversions and vehicles of Spanish

and in numerous conflicts, with some

It has stood the test of time quite well,

subjects. Of particular interest to me was

countries still using them or variants of 

however, it only offers the standard M47

the conversion of the M47E2 for the old

them today.

 variant and needed work and donor kits to

Italeri kit and the 105mm gun. The Rh 105

change it to something along the lines of 

is similar but slightly different in

Since the M47 had such a long service life

a version with a diesel engine M47, I

appearance to the standard L7/M68

around the world, many would be

myself have a few Italeri M47’s and donor 

105mm. As it turns out he has updated

upgraded to keep pace with evolving

kits in storage. Recently Takom began

his conversion to cover the changes

technologies. A common upgrade was the

releasing an updated M47 line, thereby 

needed for the Takom kit.

M(odern) or E(urope) upgrade. This

negating the need to build a conversion.

One of the items that Javier pointed out to

other than the first and second road wheel

and outer distance between the housings

me was that the Spanish M47 E1 and E2s

should be equidistant from each other.

of the middle torsion bars. These

moved the last road wheel forward versus

I used a razor saw removed from its

measurements were locked into the

backward as the Takom kit has done. The

handle to careful cut the last torsion bar 

caliper and this was used to draw a line

last road wheel was moved during the

housing from the hull. The razor saw

on the hull based on the distance from the

diesel engine conversion to make room

provided and nice thin cut. This was

next to last housing. A ruler was used to

for the oil pan of the engine. M47’s

made somewhat difficult by the fact that I

draw a line on the along the bases of the

had already attached the lower hull parts.

housing. These lines formed a box for me

converted in the U.S. had the road wheel moved back, where as those converted

 The removal of the housing was not

to reattach my housing and the hole left

in Spain and perhaps elsewhere in Europe

flawless and did require some sanding to

from the removal of the housing was filled

moved the wheel forward. In short, check 

smooth the surface for the eventual

in. The bump stop and the shock absorber 

 your photo references carefully. For the Spanish M47E variants all the road wheels

reattachment of the housing.  A caliper was used to measure the inner 

 This shows the road wheels in position as the Takom kit provides. Note the gap between the last two road wheels. While this positioning is correct for  the M47M’s, the rear wheel may need to be moved forward if building a M47E.


stage and actually fielded the vehicle.

 were moved forward also, all of these parts need to be moved forward 3mm.

Here the last road wheel has been moved forward to be equidistant with the other wheels with the only large gap being between the first and second road wheel. This is the common arrangement seen on M47E’s in service  with the Spanish Army.

 The movement of the last road wheel had the

Plastic strips were cut to the proper length for each track pad and laminated to create

unfortunate knock-on effect of coming up two

replacement track pads and to create new tread. Spare connectors were used to join the

track links short (one link on each side, though I

pads. The tracks and lower hull were primed black while exposed prior to the addition of the

moved both to one side. I positioned this shortfall

upper hull parts. While the replacement track pads are not perfect, they are hard to find when

under the front fender to help reduce the visibility 

primed. Once the mud guards are installed the replacements will not be noticeable at all!

of any solution I created.

It has been observed that there is a difference in

It appears that the Spanish M47E2’s used the

the bulge for the bow machine gun between the

armoured air filter boxes. The Takom kit provides

 Takom and Italeri kits. Photographic evidence

 The infantry phone box and gun cradle

the unarmored version. I had the armoured

provided by Takom are incorrect for a M47E2. The upgrade set from Javier 

shows that both are correct and this is simply a

housing as spares from an AFV Club M60A2 kit

difference in the factory a particular vehicle was

and decided to use that with the remaining parts


coming from the Takom kit. Javier does provide

provides the correct version. Supports  were added for the phone box.

resin replacments in his update set but I always prefer to bond plastic to plastic when possible.

 Another feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the use of German style smoke grenade launchers.  Takom’s other version of the M47 pr ovide parts for a German M47. Fortunately these parts are  The model prior to painting. I had primed the suspension and lower hull as mentioned already. At this point I hadn’t decided if I would use the M2 machine gun.

on the sprues of the M47 E/M kit. Some chain and the nipple for the launcher covers was added. The smoke launchers are in the way of the lower rails on both sides of the turret, which requires both rails to be shortened.


 The distinctive feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the Rh105-30 gun. While it is similar to the L7 series, it is different enough that the builder will have to scratch build one, modify a L7 barrel or  buy one. The only aftermarket one that I am aware of is from Javier Villarroya. The barrel that he produces is designed to be attached to the mantlet without a cover. Most photos show the M47E2 with the mantlet cover. I modified the kit provided cover  along with a resin portion from DEF Models and some putty to attach the barrel. It may have been better to have made the entire cover from putty, but my sculpting skills are not particularly good.

 Trying to decide what is the correct colour for the Spanish

from more green to more brown. After the initial painting was

 vehicles proved to be a bit challenging. Photos ranged from a

done I painted various highlights and features in different

brown finish to green. However, most show a brown tone to them. My first attempt was to use a mix of Tamiya Dark Green  with some Dark Green 2 and JA green. Once this had dried I

paints to enhance the shadow areas and borders of the model.

checked the reference photos and realized this was just too

I first applied the oil. After drying for several minutes the excess

green and had no discernible brown tone to it.

oil paint was removed the remainder blended in with the finish.

Unhappy with my first attempt at matching the colour, I trialed several alternatives. I was finally satisfied  with a mix of Tamiya Khaki and NATO Black in a ratio of around 20:5. I noticed that depending on lighting and temperature adjustments to processing of images the colour easily shifts


shades to start adding variation and visual interest to the model.  A gloss coat was applied and decals added. I then used oil

Once the oils had dried for a few days I applied another coat of gloss. A blackbrown pin wash was applied to all the deepest recesses. Some chipping was added with thinned Vallejo black grey. Lights and optics were first painted silver and lear acrylics (blue and red)  were then painted as appropriate.  Tracks and remaining details were brush painted. A coat of Vallejo matt  varnish was then applied and graphite pencil was used on some of the edges to give a worn metallic feel. Rust coloured washes were applied to the crew heater exhaust and around some of the handles.

I have been using the ‘chipping’ method to create mud spattering and streaking lately. I like the effects that this technique creates and the reliability of it. I begin by applying  Vallejo chipping fluid to areas of interest, i n this case the hull

hull. I turned to enamels, in particular I used Wilder Brown Mud Effect to create the next amount of accumulation. I  would paint random blotches onto the surfaces. After drying, a brush dampened with paint thinner was used to ‘push’ the

sides, front and rear as well as the very forward upper areas

excess paint away and distribute the remainder over the

of the hull. After this has dried for about a half an hour a

surface. The turret received the same treatment with the

thinned dirt coat of Tamiya Buff was applied. Once dry, a brush dampened with warm water was used to remove the

addition of rain streaks.  The tracks were first dry brushed with Tamiya Flat Earth paint.

excess of the colour. On vertical surfaces this was drawn

Mud coloured pigments were then rubbed on to create the

down to create streaks. On vertical surfaces and in tight areas

dirt effect. The moisture stains around the tow pintles was

such as corners and road wheels a stippling motion with the brush was used to create a spattered and uneven look to the dirt accumulation.

created by mixing pigment with fluid effects and painting the mixture on carefully following reference.  The addition of some pigments competed  work on the M47E2.

I wanted to add dust and dirt accumulation to the rest of the vehicle, but not in as heavy of  accumulation as the lower portions of the


It was enjoyable to build the penultimate M47.  The unexpected challenges of havi ng to update the suspension and build extra track links made the build even more enjoyable and unique. The  Takom kit itself is a pleasure to build and even though adaptions were needed, it was a great starting point for a M47 E series versus the option of overhauling the veteran Italeri offering.




new releases

MTVR, American Special No.3031 Carl Schulze Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 64 pages, English and German text   Already available from Trumpeter and a new release on the cards this is a great time to stock-up on reference of the USMC’s  workhorse in it’s numerous gui ses. Tankograd’s popular visual format is followed and there’s some excellent shots of the truck at  work with a great selection of colour schemes operating

Leopard 2A6 Development, description, technology  Ralph Zwilling Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 80 pages, English and German text 

Leopard 2A6 In action and variants 46

Ralph Zwilling Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 56 pages, English and German text 

throughout the World. The book covers a huge range of MTVR  versions with tipper trucks, cargo, armoured recce, tractor and extended bed amongst others. great modelling inspiration and reference especially for colour schemes and weathering.

No. 5070 in Tankograd’s series takes a look at the technical aspects of the Leopard 2A6 and starts by detailing the series of upgrade programs and then chapters broken into subject areas such as electrical system, heating system, power pack… pretty much everything inside and out. Alongside the detailed text is an excellent selection of close-

up and walk-around style photographs and factory-style diagrams providing the modeller   with invaluable reference in an easily accessed format. Images of disassembled hulls, turrets removed and empty engine bays are all here making this an inexpensive and essential read for Leopard modellers.

 An ideal companion to 5070 is 5071 wi th some fantastic action shots of the big cat and great modelling subjects with additional exercise camouflage and markings. Further reference is provided with 1:35 detailed plan drawings and a very easily understood information on the

differences between the ‘M’ and ‘M+’ and also  what the future developments have in store. Crew functions and workstations also feature providing another highly informative piece of  Leopard literature.

Panzerkampftagen IV  in combat Markus Zöllner  Published by Tankograd Soft back format, 80 pages, English and German text 

 The first book of a batch of re-prints from  Tankograd which tie-in nicely with some recent kit releases (post-war British subjects such as Chieftain and ’432), and being quite partial to anything Panzer IV  related this collection of ‘in the field images’ of the Wehrmacht’s workhorse is  very much worth a look if you missed it first time around. The full spectrum from  A to J is covered with some very well chosen images (many unfamiliar) with detailed captions. Our thanks to Bookworld for our   Tankograd samples.

 Another set of re-prints which will be welcome to Briti sh post-war enthusiasts  with the ‘Early Years’ covering vehicles fr om 1945 to 1979 and the ‘Final  Years’ dealing with 1980 to 1994. A great selection of images and v ehicles are covered in each book with soft-skins, armour and engineering vehicles Peter Blume  Andreas Kirchhoff   with detailed captions and descriptions of BAOR organisation and Published by Tankograd Published by Tankograd deployment over the years. Another popular modelling subject is vehicles in Soft back format, 64 pages, Soft back format, 64 pages, the fetching ‘Berlin’ urban camo scheme, everything you might need to know English and German text English and German text is covered within with a great selection of photographs and plans of the  colour schemes. All three of these re-releases are recommended to any fans of British vehicles of the period.

BAOR  The early years/   The Late Years


British Infantry  Brigade, Berlin

 The guys at Eduard of ten take a break from their  aircraft upgrades and produce some very nice AFV  subjects. A couple of photoetch sets have been released to suit kits which we’ve featured recently.

36358 is for the IBG Scammell Pioneer SV2S with lots of useful fine detail as has set 36359 for Tamiya’s new  Valentine which also includes full mudguards / fenders.

 AMMO of Mig  A couple of diorama products from  Ammo in giant 250ml tubs; 2204 is an acrylic water effect ‘Slow River  Water’ and 2105 acrylic mud ‘Muddy  Ground’. The water has a green cast to it and can be poured straight from the tub, the consistency is such that ripples could be formed as it dries although it is designed to self-level. We found this to dry pretty quickly   with a high gloss sheen and could see it working well built in thin(ish) layers. One of a range of earth textures is this ‘Muddy Ground’ mix   which, as you can see, represents heavy wet mud very well with various depths of textures and a convincing sheen. Very convenient and economical products with pleasing results, find the full range at


Krupp Protze and variants Published by SABOT  Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Softback format 46 pages ISBN 9781947552005

Einheitsdiesel Published by SABOT  Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Softback format 46 pages ISBN 9781947552012

 A new line f rom SABOT here with No.1 in their ‘Foto File’ which looks as if it will evolve into monographs of unpublished images providing some nice reference.  The Krupp Protze with it’s distinctive appearance and big 4 cylinder boxer  engine must have been considered well ahead of it’s time and has been a popular  modelling subject (Bronco in fact ready to release a series of new kits). The quality of  the images is varied but all included because of obvious interest and rarity  covering three versions; standard troop transporter, 37mm PaK transport and searchlight transport unit. Some great images provide modelling inspiration and probably difficult due to the original source, but it would have been nice to have at least some of the photos captioned.

Straight into number 2 ‘Foto File’ with a look at the ‘Standard Diesel’ German lorry   which was produced by nine companies  with production beginning i n 1934 only the three axle version (from a 2,3 and 4 axle design) seeing production of over 14,000 units and serving long into WWII after  production stopped in 1940. As the Krupp Protze images, quality varies and they’re  void of any captions but all the images are previously unpublished with the field kitchen and radio truck featured along with the standard cargo truck. These first two books will be welcome reference for  German soft-skin modellers and enthusiasts and a nice change from the usual ‘big-cat’ armour subjects. Available from SABOT direct or specialist book and hobby stockists Worldwide.

M1A1 SA in Iraqi Service Published by SABOT  Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, Pearce Browning Softback format 65 pages plus decals ISBN 9781947552012


 This is the fourth Abrams-focussed release in SABOT’s photo reference series with more for fans of the Abrams. These Iraqi M1A1s have a hard life and make great weathering subjects for  modellers with this collection of images proving the point with ideal reference with overall action shots and walk-around style close ups included especially of the unique features such as the

mesh stand-off armour. We also have a selection of colour  profiles and some very welcome 1:35 decals by the masters at Cartograf to represent the featured vehicles. Quite niche but offering a unique reference for these vehicles and certainly a nice change from the usual M1 subjects with plenty of weathering potential as the book shows.

Fallen Giants  The Combat Debut of the T-35A Tank  Francis Pulham Published by Fonthill Media Softback format, 143 pages ISBN 9781781556269  The five-turreted beast that was the T-35 may have looked impressive in the Soviet military parades but quickly showed itself  to be outdated on the battlefield as it tried to hold it’s own against the German invaders. This new book doesn’t look to detail the technical side of the T-35 but it’s demise on the battlefields of the Eastern front documented (largely) by German troops with some fascinating images. The author has managed to identify a large

number of the vehicles with production numbers which are crossreferenced with maps giving a unique insight to these monsters. A chapter details the armour that served alongside the T-35s and a final review of their combat performance along with some attractive colour profiles. Essential reading for any modeller of  Soviet armour which certainly had us digging out the recent Zvezda kit!

 T-60 Small Tank and  Variants James Kinnear and Yuri Pasholok  Published by Canfora Hardback format 176 pages ISBN 9789198232561

 This is the first in a n ew series from Sweden's Canfora, 'Red Machines' will focus on Soviet armour and in this case the diminutive T-60 (very timely with MiniArt releasing a brand new kit!). Canfora's usual high quality design and production presents the information very nicely; this book is packed with period photos (both in the field and factory shots), original diagrams and illustrations, contemporary plan drawings and colour profiles. The text is very informative whilst still being easy reading with

translated quotes from Soviet manuals and of ficial documents  with some tales of heroic combat involving the T-60. A comprehensive walk-around colour section will prove invaluable modelling reference. If your a fan of conversions a chapter  containing AA gun versions and 'Katyusha' rocket launcher  amongst other quirky prototypes (including a winged glider T-60!) should get you thinking. This series looks like it could be an absolute 'must' for Soviet armour enthusiasts.








E.T. Model Great to receive a batch of new releases from China’s E.T. with the quality consistent as always. In 1:16 are two sets of WWII German tool clamps (a photoetch favourite!) J16-001 are early   versions and J16-002 late pattern. Still with German subjects are E35-256, basic detail set for Dragon’s StuG.IIIE and for the same kit are very nicely done fenders. E35-259 is a detail set for Meng’s Kingtiger which includes excellent tow cables and also for Meng is E35-258 designed for the Gepard and provides the correct square



pattern vents running along the hull. Also applicable is EA35-119  which provides a late smoke candle rack for German subjects. E35-260 is a big set to hike-up the Hobby Boss ZTZ-99A and also for Hobby Boss is E35-257 for the French VBL armoured car. Finally a nice upgrade including photoetched wheel spokes for the little Peugeot 750 motorcycle included in Meng’s FT-17 crew and orderly set, E35-255 is the product code. See E.T.’s full range at

 Aires Held in high regard by aircraft modellers, Czech aftermarket aces  Aires are producing some nice accessories f or armour builders 50 and we’ve a few of their latest figures to look at. 480161 is a seated Modern British driver to steer your Airfix Warrior, 480183 is

a WWII period German tanker and 480190 a Modern Russian commander gesturing with a raised arm. Sculpting and casting of  all three is superb.

Panzer DNA  Daniele Guglielmi and Mario Pieri Published by AMMO hardback format, 139 pages ISBN 97884416949137

 This new book from AMMO of Mig Jiménez gives a very good initial impression with nice design and production. Generally speaking the authors appear to have set out to produce a concise guide to replace the  vintage ‘Panzer Colours’ volumes (for a long time a valuable reference for German armour modellers) and dispel the myths generated throughout the years by c ollating the most relevant contemporary  information. The book is broken into very  manageable and accessible sections covering unit composition, colours,

markings and also more specialist information on troops’ ranks, zimmerit, signalling and some handy tables of  translation of the German terms and abbreviations to English. One interesting table is a price list of equipment from a Luger to a Tiger! Colour illustrations and diagrams help to display the information  visually and although packed with period photographs, many in colour, most are the more commonly seen ones and image quality varies. A great up-to-date overview of the topic from pre-war until 1945 if you

MK35  You can always rely on France’s MK35 for  characteristic civilian figures and here’s a great quartet of railway (or any labouring scenario for that matter) each comes with an optional head (with or without protective goggles) and the sculpting and casting is excellent. Each figure could obviously work  individually or in groups and the new MiniArt railway sets immediately spring to mind to produce an instant vignette or diorama. Now with over ninety civilian figures on offer, MK35 are sure to have something to suit  your latest ideas.

 Vallejo One of the pioneers of acrylic modelling paints, Spain’s Vallejo, continue to expand their offer of quality finishing products with more additions to their AFV Colour Series. Each set contains six 17ml ‘dropper’ bottles and the colours are ready to airbrush with details and colour profiles displayed on the packaging. 71.207 is a set of German DAK colours, 71.209 are modern U.S. desert colours (including shading and highlight tones), 71.210 are the much debated IDF colours from 1957 to date (including a primer and clear   varnish). Another much debated range of  colours are the British ‘Caunter’ colours provided in set 71.211 and set 71.212 has five tones of the MERDC U.S. Army pattern plus a clear varnish. Finally a generic set 71.213 covers wheel and track tones with a step by step guide. Still on top of their  game, catch up with all the latest products and tutorials at


 The IDF’s adaptation and customisation of  it’s vehicles is best displayed surely by the Pumas adapted as engineering vehicles meaning some of the Shot-Cal tanks have served for almost sixty years! Due to this fact of leading a hard life and lots of intricate Puma Heavy APC equipment they certainly make fantastic Centurion based APC in IDF service Part 3 modelling subjects, hence this third volume Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien from the saviors of IDF modellers, Desert Published by Desert Eagle Eagle. After the introduction to the Puma Softback format, 82 pages family the book splits into bridge system ISBN 978965 7700 068  vehicles, mine clearance (roller, ‘Viper ’ and

carpet system) and command vehicles with an excellent mix of in-action images and detailed close-ups providing very usable allround reference. A selection of CAD drawings will aid modellers even further with enough information to allow some scratchbuilding of parts. Even if you’re not planning on building one of these mean-machines in the near future the colour images are invaluable reference for weathering and groundwork. All the quality we’ve come to expect from Desert Eagle, superb reference.

Merkava Siman1- Part 1 Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien Published by Desert Eagle Softback format, 82 pages ISBN 978965 7700 075

 The IDF Armor series continues at a pace with number 20, great news for modellers of IDF subjects. One of the World's most famous armoured vehicles in perhaps it's purest form? Merkava Mk1, with the usual Desert Eagle approach of quality large format colour images and detailed, knowledgable research resulting in the perfect easy access modelling reference. As this is Part One 52 the chapters are a little more in depth with more to come in the next volume (such as the usual 'Man and Machine' feature) we

have an excellent insight here to the power pack, suspension, and external details with the author's unrestricted access revealing removed side skirts and 'live' maintenance. This release is just in time for the new Takom Mk1 or if you still have the classic Tamiya kit, another essential addition to the library of any IDF modeller but beware; buy one Desert Eagle book and you'll want them all. Our  thanks to for our sample copy.


 AF35 A13


 AF35 A10

Rochm We’ve received some more of Rochm’s beautiful presented photoetched upgrade sets. The presentation and quality of the products really is superb with full colour photographic instructions that would shame most high-end kit manufacturers. All of these samples are for the Kingtiger and Jagdtiger in 1:35; AF35A10 is a full detail set for Dragon or Zvezda’s final production Henschel turret, AF35A13 is another full detail version for Dragon’s Porsche

turret and AF35111 is a basic(!) set for Dragon’s Jagdtiger. A small fret AF35 G05 provides delicate mesh screens for the engine deck  for the Dragon kits. For the superb Meng Kingtiger we featured a couple of issues back is full detail set AF35A11. These sets really  do offer the ultimate in detail and will leave you wanting for  nothing. Full details at:

Iwata Some new products from the Iwata experts at The  Airbrush Company to enhance your airbrushing pleasure. Iwata Lube is special f ormulated to keep moving parts of your ‘brush operating smoothly by  maintaining it’s viscosity and is free from silicone (something you don’t really want anywhere you’re painting). Something that I personally use and wouldn’t be without is a spray-out pot, doubling as an airbrush

holder as well as a place to discharge any unwanted paint or cleaning fluid these certainly are a clean way  to work for your desk and the air around it. Another   very convenient accessory is a desk-edge holder to accommodate two airbrushes safely, the base clamp looks like it would adapt to most work surfaces and the multi-posable holders include a fitting to accommodate the spray-out


Dunkirk 1940, Through a German Lens  Alan Ranger  Published by Mushroom Models Softback format, 88 pages ISBN 9788365281722 Having enjoyed the experience of the recent ‘Dunkirk’ movie I did feel one detail that was lacking was the sheer scale and destruction of the battle and evacuation. These previously  unpublished images presented in a photo-album style certainly  give proof of that with over 200 shots taken by German troops of  the advance to the town and the aftermath of the evacuation, the

Operation Dynamo Colouring Book  Published by MMP Books / Stratus softback format, 32 pages ISBN 9788365281609

town and beaches littered with vehicles, equipment and ships.  There’s some excellent photographs with plenty of images for  modellers of Allied subjects to take reference from but generally  the historical content and detailed captions make this an interesting read which is sure to prove popular with the recent surge of interest. A very thought-provoking book.

 The old-fashioned colouring book has certainly made a come back of late, so if  butterflies and country cottages don’t get  you excited maybe this will have you digging out your coloured pencils? Again, latching onto the Dunkirk movie is this collection of stylized line drawings to scribble away at with a good selection of 

 Allied and German vehicles and aircraft  which, we have to admit, look like they  could be a lot of fun. How long before someone does aftermarket cardboard tracks and laser-cut paper detail sets?! Something a little lighthearted from Mushroom Model Productions.

Panther Ausf. A/D/G Published by MMP Books / Stratus softback format, 32 pages ISBN 9788365281609


Not so much a book as a set of plans in 1:72, 1:48,1:35 and 1:16 for Panther versions A, D and G with some generic balkencruz masks included. The 1:16 plans are printed on quality A1 size foldout loose sheets but we feel they lack considerable detail at this size (being enlargements of the smaller versions). One feature that never disappoints with Kagero are the colour profiles which are again, superb with a good choice of subject vehicles each with some informative text.

 1 : 3 5 H o n g M o d e l ’ s k i t b y M a r k N e v i l l e




ell the saying goes you wait for 

1:35 and I’ve often fancied building a

a bus and two turn up at once,

Shilka based on images from one of the

in this case it was Shilkas. No

recent global conflicts with a heavily 

sooner had we received the fresh new

 weathered finish. I’ve shied away from the

1:35 kit from newcomers Hong Model and

 work involved bringing the vintage Dragon

Meng told us they would shortly be

kit up to scratch so this seemed an ideal

releasing a ZSU-23. The rule still stands in

opportunity for an out of the box project

the AFV Modeller studio that if you spend

concentrating on weathering; shouldn’t

too much time looking through the

take long to build should it? The detail and

contents of a kit you have to build it, as

quality of moulding looked really good so I

 we’ve already featured Meng’s offering I thought we’d see how Hong’s kit fairs-up.

cleared the bench and cracked open a bottle of Mr Cement...

 This subject has been long overlooked in


 The guns are an intricate and demanding assembly but look good when finished, some may   wish to add firing cables and coolant hose but are

 The design of assembly is standard; lower hull

barely visible.

‘tub’ and large single piece upper hull. Things

 The guns can elevate to the desired position freely 

do start to get a little more complicated with the turret and cannons.

I found filler required on the

until you fix the top cover (not in place here).

leading edges of both sides due to a difficult fit.

Rear engine deck covers require plenty of sanding and Photoetch is good and

dry fits to obtain a good fit

fits well, what we’ve come to expect included in modern kits.

 This edge protruding appears correct

Separate relief 

 when compared

detail parts

 with reference.

needed blending in with some Mr  Surfacer here.

 A retaining chain should be present at either end of these fold-down flaps.

 A large hole need drilling for the radar unit. No mention of this on the instructions and would be easier done from inside the turret roof before assembly.

Idler wheels are a very  sloppy fit; some packing required and plenty of drying time for  the adhesive.

Many turret fittings require locating holes that aren’t mentioned.

 Transpose the part numbers for the suspension arms to the opposite side!

I’m no track-snob but the kit’s individual links with two separate guide-horns per link? No thanks. Masterclub produce some great resin and white metal track sets. I struggled with the resin pins provided so cut my own from 0.4mm brass rod. The tyres are a snug fit between the guide horns, in hinesight a little sanding of the tyre’s back edge would have helped.


 The driver’s h atch is a separate assembly with internal detail allowing the option of posing it open, no internal driver’s position parts are offered though.

 Tow fittings left an unusual  These parts are wooden in reality, a couple of swipes with a

champhered gap around their base, I

razor saw blade added a convincing grain texture.

used Magic Sculpt putty to create the

 The upper hull isn’t glued in place at this point; a little

heavy weld seams seen in reference

sanding of the edges under the sponsons made for a better 


I won’t go into any details about the ZSU-

comprehensive and accurate when

copper cable). The kit tracks; I just

23, (Zenitnaya Samokhodnaya Ustanovka

compared to reference images (a good

couldn’t face assembling or cleaning up

place to look is

three tiny parts per link, the detail is good

don’t really know a great deal but I just and our very 

and I have seen them assembled by 

love the way they look and if you’ve seen

own back issue 81 with a reworked

braver souls than me to good effect. We

 / self propelled anti-aircraf t system) I

any movie footage of them you realise

 version of Dragon’s old kit). Clear parts

 what a formidable weapon they can be

are provided for the vision blocks and

tracked(!) down a set of the Masterclub  white metal versions (resin are also

against air and ground targets with those

optic parts and a nice little photoetched

available) and very nice they are too, with

23mm auto cannons. This is all about the

fret ads some welcome finesse. Decals

the realism you get from the ‘sit’ of metal

kit, which, to be honest, is a real mixed

provide a good selection of versions from

links hard to beat.

bag and a bit of a pig to build at times.

Eastern Block countries to more modern

 As a general over view I’d say the

Gulf War examples all presented nicely 

We shouldn’t forget this is Hong’s first kit,

instructions are riddled with mistakes

on a colour fold-out sheet.

none of the challenges it throws at you

(wrong numbered parts, location holes

I’ve deliberately held off adding any of the

take a great deal of correction, they’re

required without mention) and location

missing small details to show exactly 

mainly frustrating and slow you down

points either too large or too small and

 what comes from the kit, but they are

such as wrongly numbered parts and

some sloppy fit in’s not all

quite minor; some wiring of the radar unit

poor location points but this kind of adds

bad. The presentation of the kit is nice

and marker lights and a clamp on the

to the satisfaction of seeing the finished

and the moulding sharp and clean with a

front glassis for the tow cable (which I

model on the bench ready for paint.

high level of detail which is pretty 

haven’t fitted but is supplied as a soft


I primed the Shilka with Mr Finishing Surfacer black which not only serves as an excellent base coat but a pre-shade. Over this I applied the base green (AK’s Russian Green oversprayed with some transparent blue ink in places) and sand camo allowing the black to show through in shaded areas.

 water based gouache for many years with good results. The colours above (cadmium red, cadmium yellow, lamp black and zinc white) are all I ever use for various tones. You can return to your pallet and re-work the dry paint with  water at a later date.

 Although there are many ‘out of the bottle’ effects to create dust I’ve used

I first airbrush the gouache (mixed to a milky  consistency) but to do this you need a very matt base coat. This is then manipulated with a wet or  moistened paintbrush (using water) and allowed to  wash and accumulate as dust would and drying to a  very matt and chalky finish. The lower hull received a much heavier coat with a less diluted mixture. I was  working closely to some colour reference images of  ex-Syrian Army vehicles where the dust had a slight pink cast to it which I exaggerated knowing this  would tone down with the subsequent processes.

 The next step was a filter of heavily diluted (enamel thinner) yellow ochre oil paint. Working on small sections or panels dampened with the mix this helps harmonise the colours and while still damp is a good surface to

Here we can see the effects of the gouache, filters and washes taking

apply pin washes to. The washes are done with burnt umber and black oil

shape. Note the scratches and scuffs in the dirt through to the base

colours and start to give depth to the details. A benefit of using the water 

colours, a damp cocktail stick easily achieves this touch of realism.

based gouache is that it isn’t affected by enamel thinners and can be  worked over very quickly.

I worked round each section with the same techniques. I find breaking a


My reference showed some damp areas accumulated on the front glacis  which were replicated with less diluted washes.

 The kit’s wheels are nicely detailed with various washes enhancing the

model into sections for the main weathering and shading processes

contrasts. The layers of effects can be seen on the side of the hull, note

allows experimentation as you go, if something doesn’t go to plan it’s also

the dirt splashing and splatters created by loading a brush with the

easier to rectify a single section than the whole model!

gouache and blowing a shot of air through it with the airbrush.

Before placing the stowage I added some gloss varnish under where the oil barrel  would be placed to represent spilled diesel.

My final steps of wear and tear involve adding some bare metal effects to selected edges and areas of high wear. A Micro-Brush and graphite powder was used to give a subtle sheen.

 A graphite stick (or a soft pencil works equally 

Back to the graphite powder (Ushi Van Der 

Lifecolor’s ‘European Asphalt’ I find is a good match

 well) picks out areas of highest wear su ch as

Rosten’s ‘Iron’ was used in this case) to highlight

for old rubber on the road wheels, these were easy to

the running contact surface of the tracks.

paint by pulling the track to one side. I final dusting in

hatches, crew access and handles. The handles on the rear deck are a little chunky 

 The tracks were painted in place as the dust tones

and may be better replaced with finer brass

needed to match the rest of the lower hull plus I


find I always hit snags fitting painted tracks to a finished model.

select areas with pigment powder (a mixture of Brick  Dust and Light Earth) and we’re almost done with  weathering and ready to detail paint the tools and add the stowage.

Gun barrels also received the polishing powder  treatment and I buffed some areas of the turret  with my finger which gives a very slight sheen to areas where the dust would be brushed away by  the crew. Now all that’s left to do is place the stowage, figure and sort the light lenses.

 After watching the Editor ’s progress on his 1:16 Panzer crew I was inspired to have a bash at my own figure. Starting  with one of our own mannequins (available from in 1:35 and 1:16) he’s not bad for a first attempt and hopefully places the Shilka in the Syrian conflict. I also now have the upmost respect for figure sculptors!


Lacking a dash of colour I decided to liven things up  with the stowage. The resin oil barrel is from an old MiG Productions set and the carpet from the excellent Reality in Scale range which is printed on a flock  material. The water bottles are from Meng and the discarded shirt made from Magic Sculpt.


So now we have two modern Shilka kits to chose from (we featured the Meng kit in issue 90). This kit from Hong is for a modeller with some experience who can handle mistakes on the instructions with some tricky fit and position of parts. Ultimately I’m happy with the look  of the finished model, the detail is good, in fact excellent in places and the kit should rate as a very  commendable first effort from Hong.


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