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Overhand Knot Half Hitch Half Knot Square (Reef) Knot Sheet Bend (Becket Bend): Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot Slip Knot Noose Knot
Albright Knot Arbor Knot Australian Braid Knot Bimini Twist Knot Blood Knot Dropper Loop Duncan (Uni) Knot Improved Clinch Knot Nail Knot Non‐Slip Mono Knot Orvis Knot Palomar Knot Perfection Loop Rapala Knot Snell Knot Surgeon's Knot Surgeon's Loop Knot Trilene Knot
Alpine Butterfly Bend Alpine Butterfly or Linesman's Loop Anchor Hitch Ashley Bend Ashley (Oysterman) Stopper Knot The Bowline Bowline on a Bight Running Bowline Buntline Hitch Carrick Bend Chain Splice Cleat Hitch (Deck) Cleat Hitch (Halyard) Clove Hitch (Half Hitches) Constrictor Knot Double Overhand Knot Eye Splice Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot Highwayman's Hitch Hunter's Bend Icicle Hitch (Loop Method) Lighterman's Hitch Mooring Hitch Poacher's Knot Rat Tail Stopper Rolling (Taut Line) Hitch Round Turn and Two Half Hitches Sheet Bend (Becket Bend) Short Splice Square Knot (Reef) Tumble Hitch Zeppelin Bend
Alpine Butterfly Bend Alpine Butterfly Loop (Lineman's Loop) Blake's Hitch Bowline Knot Chain Sinnet (Monkey Braid) Clove Hitch using Half Hitches Directional Figure 8 Loop Distel Hitch Double Fisherman's or Grapevine Bend Double Overhand Stopper Knot Figure 8 Bend (Flemish Bend) Double Figure 8 Loop ("Bunny Ears") Figure 8 Follow Girth Hitch (Strap Hitch) Klemheist (Machard, French Prusik) Knot Munter Mule Combination Hitch One‐Handed Bowline Prusik Knot (Triple Sliding Hitch) Water Knot (Ring Bend) Zeppelin Bend
Alpine Butterfly or Linesman's Loop Barrel Hitch The Bowline Clove Hitch (Half Hitches) Common Whipping Constrictor Cow Hitch Double Fisherman's or Grapevine Bend Double Overhand Knot Eye Splice Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot Half Hitch Square Lashing Diagonal Lashing Round Lashing Shear Lashing Tripod Lashing Rolling (Taut Line) Hitch Round Turn and Two Half Hitches Sheet Bend (Becket Bend) Sheepshank Square Knot (Reef) Timber Hitch Trucker's Hitch (Lorry, Haymaker's, Harvester's)
The Bowline Clove Hitch (Half Hitches) Distel Hitch Double Fisherman's or Grapevine Bend Double Overhand Knot Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot Figure 8, or Flemish, Bend or Join Figure 8 Follow Figure 8 Double Loop ("Bunny Ears") Figure 9 Loop Girth Hitch (Strap Hitch) Handcuff Knot Hasty (Emergency) Webbing Harness Prusik Knot or Triple Sliding Hitch Tensionless Hitch Water Knot
Back Splice Eye Splice Chain Splice Brummel Demo Locked Brummel Slice Brummel McDonald Long Bury Splice Short Splice Sliding Splice by Grog
Sliding Splice by Grog Monkey's Fist Turk's Head (Woggle) Lanyard Knot Celtic Knot Mat Masthead Knot Mat Carrick Bend Mat Ocean Plait Mat Crown Sinnet Chain Sinnet, Chain Stitch or Monkey Braid Braid a Single Rope Cobra Knot Wall Knot Matthew Walker Wall, Crown, and Manrope Knot
Sailmaker's Whipping Common Whipping West Country Whipping Figure 8 Flake Rope Care/Cleaning Coil Unattached Rope Coil Attached Rope Flemish Bend Crown Knot Back Splice
Albright Knot ‐ Για δεσίματα μισινέζας διαφορετικών διαμέτρων (Shock Leader) The Albright Knot is used to join monofilament lines of different sizes. It is often used, for example, to join the fly line to the fly‐reel backing line.
Albright Knot Tying Form a loop in one line (gold, thicker if unequal). Pass the end of the other (blue, thinner) line through the loop and wrap it neatly around itself and the loop 10 times. Then pass the end back through the loop next to itself. Lubricate, pull the knot tight, and trim the ends.
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Albright Knot Details Uses: The Albright Knot is a versatile knot that has a wide range of uses. It is only moderately easy to tie but it is suitable for joining different types of fishing line, e.g., Monofilament to Braided, or Braided to Wire. It is also useful when joining monofilaments with markedly different diameters. It is commonly used to join the fly line to the backing line but can be used whenever you wish to join two fishing lines together. Tying it: The initial loop is made in the larger line. It is important to wind the loops neatly round this loop. It helps to hold the loops under your fingers as you wind the line on. Advantages: The Albright is well suited to slide readily through the guides when a fish pulls out enough line to reach your backing. Some anglers coat the knot with a rubber‐based cement to make it even smoother and more secure. http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Alpine Butterfly Bend The Alpine Butterfly Bend provides a secure method of joining two pieces of rope. It is based on the better known Alpine Butterfly Loop. This page provides links to three other very closely related bends: Ashley, Hunter's, and Zeppelin.
Alpine Butterfly Bend Tying Join the two ends temporarily. Wind the rope around your hand so that the join is by your finger tips. Go around again. Fold the join back and then up under the other ropes. Push the knot off your hand and tighten to see the appearance of the Alpine Butterfly. Finally, release the temporary join.
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Similar: Alpine Butterfly, Ashley, Hunter's, Zeppelin
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Alpine Butterfly Bend Details Uses: The Alpine Butterfly Bend is derived from the Alpine Butterfly, or Lineman's, Loop (ABOK # 1053, p 191). It is one in a family of knots based on interlocking overhand knots. It is a reliable bend used to join two ropes of roughly similar size and can be untied even after being heavily loaded. The Alpine Butterfly Bend version enjoys a good reputation ‐ probably because of its association with the better known Alpine Butterfly Loop. Similar Knots: The Alpine Butterfly Bend is remarkably similar to several other bends including the Zeppelin, the Hunter's, and the Ashley. Essentially these knots employ interlocking overhand knots with the ends threaded through or across the middle. David M. Delaney tested these bends and the Carrick Bend for their tendency to jam. He heavily loaded the knots tied in 1/16 inch braided nylon. The Ashley and the Hunter consistently jammed tight and would have had to be cut to release them. The Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Zeppelin, and the Carrick could all be untied easily using fingers and fingernails. Amongst the family of bends based on linked overhand knots, it would seem prudent to avoid the Ashley and the Hunter's. Tying it: Several methods are described for tying it. We devised the method which is used in the animation. It is an improvement on other "hand‐winding" methods and helps locate the junction and where it is to be tucked. This simple technique sets the Alpine Butterfly Bend apart and makes it one of our preferred options. Variation: Our technique does not require the ends to be joined. After the initial wrap, tuck the end of the first rope between your fingers. Then tuck the end of the second rope beside the first and complete the wrap. The two ends can then be passed together as though they were taped. Evil Impostor: Correct tying is critical. Roo illustrates the Evil Impostor which results from threading the ends incorrectly. The Hand‐Wrapping technique introduced here is designed to avoid this risk. Advantages: The Loop version enjoys the reputation of reliably accepting strain between the ends or between the loop and either end. In this version the loop doesn't exist and the strain only falls between the two ends. It has a reputation for strength and reliability. The big advantage of the Alpine Butterfly Bend is its similarity to the Alpine Butterfly Loop ‐ which means learning only one widely trusted knot – and one that is easy to undo even after a heavy load. Breaking Strain: The Alpine Butterly Bend, like the other similar knots, passes the strain around the pair of ends in the middle. This double thickness should minimize the kinking and help to preserve strength. Indeed, the knot is commonly described as "one of the strongest". However, some quoted breaking strains are as low as 53% to 58% – similar to breaking strains for many other knots. http://www.animatedknots.com/alpinebend/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Alpine Butterfly or Linesman's Loop The Alpine Butterfly provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. Strain can be applied from the loop to either end or between the two ends.
Alpine Butterfly Loop (Lineman's Loop) Tying Wrap the rope around your hand twice. At the end of turn one, position the rope close to your fingertips. Continue around and complete turn two back near your thumb. Pick up the turn near your fingertips. Wrap it around the other two turns. Slide the knot off your hand and tighten by pulling on the loop and the ends.
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Alpine Butterfly Loop (Lineman's Loop) Details Features: What is now known as the Alpine Butterfly Loop was described twice by Ashley: Lineman's Loop (ABOK # 1053, p 191); and Harness Loop (ABOK # 532, p 87). It provides a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. Load
can be safely applied: from the loop to either end of the rope; between the two ends with the loop hanging free; or to the loop with the load spread between the two ends. Uses: It is useful anytime a secure loop is required in the middle of a rope. A good example is when a line of hikers wish to hook on along the length of a shared rope or as a possible option for the first part of a Trucker's Hitch. Tying it: There are several methods for tying it. We devised the method that is used in the animation. It is an improvement on other "hand‐winding" methods. It helps locate the loop: the second crossing of your hand is near your fingertips and away from the other two turns. This helps you to locate it, pick it up, and wrap it around the other two strands. Setting the knot usually requires holding the loop in your teeth and pulling both ends with your hands. Advantages: It is more stable than either the Bowline on a Bight or the Figure 8 Loop ‐ both of which may roll over. Even after a heavy load, the Alpine Butterfly Loop remains reasonably easy to undo. In addition, it teaches the technique for tying the Alpine Butterfly Bend. This familiarity is one of the reasons that we prefer the Alpine Butterfly Bend over the other similar bends such as the Zeppelin, the Hunter's, and the Ashley. http://www.animatedknots.com/alpinebutterfly/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=w ww.animatedknots.com
Anchor Hitch The Anchor Hitch ‐ or Fisherman's Hitch ‐ is suitable to attach a line to an anchor. It is like a Round Turn and Two Half Hitches with the first Half Hitch passed under the first round turn. Add one or more Half Hitches for security.
Anchor Hitch (Fisherman's Hitch) Tying Pass the tail twice around the post keeping the second turn slack. Pass the tail over the standing end and under the original slack turn to tie the first Half Hitch. Continue around the standing end to tie the second Half Hitch and complete the knot. The Anchor Hitch is different from a round turn and two Half Hitches in that the first Half Hitch passes under the first round turn. This view shows the knot loosened to show the first Half Hitch passing through the round turn.
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Structure
Anchor Hitch (Fisherman's Hitch) Details Uses: The Anchor Hitch, or Bend, (ABOK # 1841, p 309) is also known as the Fisherman's Hitch, or Bend. It is an excellent knot to use for attaching an anchor line to an anchor. Logically, as a knot to attach rope to an object, it should always be called a hitch. However, the name Bend derives from a time when it covered "tied to" and was not restricted to joining two ropes. Comparison: It is very similar to the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, so similar that it is doubtful if there is much benefit in using one knot over the other. This is partly because, if either knot were being used to secure an anchor line to an anchor, most people would add one or two extra Half Hitches. Many would also seize the tail to the standing end for additional security. http://www.animatedknots.com/anchor/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Arbor Knot The Arbor Knot is used to attach the fishing line to the fishing reel or, as its name suggests, to the arbor.
Arbor Knot Tying Pass the fishing line round the arbor. With the free end, tie an overhand knot around the line. Then tie a second overhand knot in the free end to act as a stopper. Finally, slide the knots down tight against the arbor.
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Arbor Knot Details Uses: The Arbor Knot is used to attach the fishing line to the "Arbor" or "Spool Center". In fact the Arbor Knot is really based on a noose knot and, therefore, pulling tightens it. Tying it: When the Arbor is accessible, the easiest way to tie the Arbor knot is to create a Noose, drop it on the Arbor and pull it to tighten it. If you make a Slip Knot by mistake it will just pull undone. Alternatively, as shown in the animation, pass the free end around the Arbor and use it to tie an overhand knot around the line. The extra overhand knot in the tag end is essential. As the knot is tightened it snugs down against the Arbor. Some fishermen recommend winding the loop twice round the Arbor before making the first Half Hitch. This increases the friction, which may be useful on some of the more polished reels. Advantages: The Arbor knot is simple, easily learned and effective.
http://www.animatedknots.com/arbor/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animat edknots.com
Ashley (Oysterman) Stopper Knot The Ashley makes a reliable bulky stopper knot in the end of a rope. This page also provides links to other stopper knots.
Ashley Stopper Knot (Oysterman's) Tying Make a bight and fold it into two loops. Pass the loop in the standing end through the other loop and then tuck the tail through it. Tighten the Half Knot first. Then pull the tail tight and finally the standing end. The underside of the knot shows three separate lobes.
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3‐Lobe pattern
Ashley Stopper Knot (Oysterman's) Details Uses: The Ashley Stopper Knot is the name now commonly given to a knot described by Ashley as the Oysterman's Stopper (ABOK # 526, p 86). It is an excellent bulky stopper knot. Ashley's description is that the knot "...has three rim parts, and these are quite symmetrical when viewed from the underside". This 3‐lobed structure can be seen in the final Frame. Similar Knots: The Ashley Stopper Knot should be compared to other knots commonly used as stoppers including the Double Overhand, and the Figure 8. In boating, the Figure 8 is particularly common, even though it has a tendency to come undone far too readily. In climbing, the Double Overhand is more widely used ‐ for good reason ‐ it is far less likely to just shake loose. It also forms the basis for tying the Double Fisherman's and the Poacher's or Double Overhand Noose. Tying it: The knot is satisfyingly easy to tie with a diagram in front of you. It is also surprisingly easy to get it wrong ‐ as I found out the hard way by getting the animation wrong initially. It is a pleasure to acknowledge Dan Lehman and Michael Schuh for making me photograph this knot correctly ‐ thank you both! Tightening the Knot: Ashley emphasizes that to make a secure stopper, the Half Knot MUST be pulled snug first (shown tightening in frames 6 and 7 of the animation) . Then the tail should be pulled, and finally the standing end. Advantages: As a bulky, secure, stopper it deserves to be more widely known. It is far less prone to shake loose than the figure 8 knot and is the bulkiest of the simple stoppers.
Ashley Bend The Ashley Bend is tied using two interlocking overhand knots. It provides a secure method if joining two ropes together.
Ashley Bend Tying Form a bight in each rope. Interlock the two bights. Pass each end over itself, under both ropes, and then up through the middle staying close to its own standing end. Tightening naturally rotates each end around the other to finish adjacent to the other standing end ‐ as shown in the side view.
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Ashley Bend Details Uses: The Ashley Bend is the name now given to a knot described by Ashley merely by number (ABOK # 1452). It is one in a family of knots based on interlocking overhand knots. It is used to join two ropes of roughly similar size. Testing by Ashley indicated that it was a reliable knot with very little tendency to slip. It can be hard to untie after being heavily loaded. Similar Knots: The Ashley Bend is remarkably similar to several other bends including the Zeppelin, the Hunter's, and the Alpine Butterfly Bend. Essentially these knots employ interlocking overhand knots with the ends threaded through or across the middle. David M. Delaney tested these bends and the Carrick Bend for their tendency to jam. He heavily loaded the knots tied in 1/16 inch braided nylon. Tied the way he employed for the testing, the Ashley
and the Hunter's consistently jammed tight and would have had to be cut to release them. The Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Zeppelin, and the Carrick could all be untied easily using fingers and fingernails. Tying it: The arrangement of the interlocking loops and the path of the ends through the center are critical. To minimize the risk of jamming, the ends should be arranged as shown and observed during tightening to ensure that they rotate to remain adjacent to the other standing end. Choice: The similarity to other bends employing interlocking overhand knots invites confusion ‐ and mistakes. We recommend the Zeppelin because it resists jamming and the Alpine Butterfly Bend because, uniquely, it is tied easily by wrapping the rope round the hand. The Ashley tends to jam and offers no unique advantage to justify its use. http://www.animatedknots.com/ashleybend/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.a nimatedknots.com
Australian Braid Knot The Australian Braid creates a loop on the end of the line. It is a called a 100% knot because the breaking strain is close to that of new, unknotted line. It is created by braiding or plaiting the line.
Australian Braid Knot Tying Form a loop leaving a long tag end. Braid the loop and tag end tightly together (the actual braid length depends on the line weight). Complete the braid using a bight in the tag end. Pull the original loop through the bight. Lubricate and then tighten the bight by pulling smoothly on the tag end. Trim the tag end.
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Australian Braid Knot Details Uses: The Australian Braid (or Plait) is an alternative to the Bimini Twist and creates a strong loop for use as a double‐line leader on the end of a fishing line which can then be used for a loop‐to‐loop connection. Tying it: The animation above demonstrates the technique but, for photography, only shows a small number of braids. In practice this knot requires a lengthy braid to work well. Recommendations: The values in the table are based on recommendations from Leadertec and shows the recommended length of braid for different fishing lines. Techniques: An additional safeguard to prevent unraveling is provided by a spot of rubber glue over the trimmed tag end. Advantages: This braid transfers the strain gradually to the knot over a considerable length. Although it is not nearly so well known as the Bimini Twist, its supporters claim it is easier to learn and quicker to tie. It also presents the smallest diameter. As few men are used to braiding, if you are a male reader and have a daughter, try and persuade her to make the braids for you. Breaking Strain: The Australian Braid (or Plait), like the Bimini Twist, is claimed to preserve 100% of the line's breaking strain. However, these remarkable results are obtained in the laboratory and may also be obtained under ideal conditions ‐ cooled, wet, and without too great a shock loading. I have not found reports of careful laboratory testing for the Australian Braid ‐ and results in use almost certainly vary. Sudden jerks generate heat due to friction and are more likely to cause failure at lower breaking strains. Line in lbs Braid in inches Up to 6 1" 8‐12 2" 16‐20 3" 30 6" 50 and up 8" http://www.animatedknots.com/australian/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Back Splice The Back Splice provides a quick and convenient way of preventing the end of a three strand rope fraying. A crown knot is formed on the end of the rope and the strands are spliced back into the standing end of the rope.
Back Splice Tying Form a Crown Knot by passing each strand over its neighbor and then tighten the knot. Splice each strand into the rope by passing it over and under alternate strands in the standing end. Complete a second and a third set of tucks to complete the back splice.
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Back Splice Details Uses: The Back Splice (ABOK # 2813, p 462) provides a secure method of preventing the end of a rope from fraying. Structure: The back splice consists of two parts: a Crown (on left) to redirect the strands back towards the standing end; and the braiding to tuck the ends into the standing strands. About three complete "tucks" are sufficient as no load is applied to a back splice.
Finishing: Finishing the Back Splice neatly is not essential. It should be regarded as temporary, and replaced with a whipping. Leaving the ends long increases the security of the splice with little penalty. Disadvantages: It makes a bulky end to a rope and usually prevents the rope's end from passing though blocks and pulleys. For most purposes, a whipping is preferred ‐ see Sailmakers, Common, or West Country whipping. Advantages: No additional tools or equipment are required and it is easily learned and quickly tied.
Barrel Hitch The Barrel Hitch provides a secure method of lifting of barrels, buckets and other containers.
Making a Barrel Hitch Stand the barrel on the lifting rope. Tie an Overhand Knot across the top. Spread the Overhand Knot until it embraces the top of the barrel. Join the ends with a Bowline and lift. Alternatively, lay the Overhand Knot on the floor, create the figure 8 appearance, and place the barrel on the center and tighten.
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Barrel Hitch Details Name: Ashley describes two methods of tying this hitch (ABOK # 2176 and 2177, p 350.) but didn't give either one a name. Today, Barrel Hitch is generally used for both these techniques when lifting a barrel upright. However, a barrel can also be lifted on its side using a Cow Hitch, an arrangement known as a "Barrel Sling". Warning: For stability, the rope encircling the barrel must be well above the center of gravity but far enough below the top to avoid slipping off. Also, care must be taken to ensure that the rope is properly centered under the barrel. With smooth and steady lifting, the Barrel Hitch provides reasonable security and safety. Alternative Methods The animation shows two methods: the first in which the Overhand Knot is spread open across the top of the barrel (Frames 1 to 8); and the second in which the Overhand Knot is laid out on the floor and then adjusted to resemble a figure 8 (Frames A to D). In fact, one common variation of the second method uses an actual Figure 8 Knot laid out on the floor instead.
Bimini Twist Knot The Bimini Twist creates a loop on the end of the line. It is a called a 100% knot because the breaking strain is close to that of new, unknotted line. It is created by twisting up a long loop of line.
Bimini Twist Knot Tying With a long tag end, form a loop and twist it at least 20 complete turns. With finger and thumb (brown sticks here) compress the twists to make the tag end wind tightly around the twists. Hold the knot and secure it with a Half Hitch and multi‐loop hitch (tuck tag end between the lines). Tighten and trim.
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Bimini Twist Knot Details Uses: The Bimini Twist is used to create a strong loop for use as a double‐line leader on the end of a fishing line that can then be used for a loop‐to‐loop connection. Tying it: The many of methods described to tie the Bimini Twist testify to its awkwardness. Knees, hooks, spare hands, and commercial knot makers have all been recommended. The animation above employed rope to make the knot visible ‐ but used only a fraction of the required number of turns. Although one team reported getting good results with about twelve turns, others have demonstrated that this fails and recommend about 30 turns for monofilament and more for braid. Options: The animation shows the knot being tied off with a Half Hitch followed by a multi‐turn hitch. Many fishermen do use both. Although they are both shown, the Half Hitch was actually untied to allow the animation to be finished with only the multi‐turn hitch. This produces a smoother finished knot and is preferred by a growing number of fishermen.
Advantages: The strength of the Bimini Twist depends upon the strain being transferred gradually to the knot over a considerable length. It is better known and more widely used than the Australian Braid – which has similar properties and may be easier to learn. Breaking Strain The Bimini Twist, is claimed to preserve 100% of the line's breaking strain. However, these remarkable results are recorded under optimal conditions, and may also be obtained while fishing ‐ cooled, wet, and without too great a shock load. Careful laboratory testing has shown that the knot fails under some conditions. Sudden jerks on dry line cause heating due to friction. This results in failure at lower breaking strains. One severe shock test was made on a 70 turn Bimini Twist tied with 80 lb monofilament with no leader. It failed at about 20 lb. http://www.animatedknots.com/bimini/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animat edknots.com
Blake's Hitch Blake's hitch is a Slide and Grip (friction) Hitch designed to take strain in only one direction. It is used by arborists for ascent and descent. It has some tendency to loosen and slip.
Blake's Hitch Tying Wrap the end of the line four times around the climbing rope. Bring the end back down, around itself, and tuck it behind the climbing rope and under the first two turns so that it exits in the middle. Tighten to achieve a tight, neat, knot. When loose, it's easy to see the two turns above and the two turns below the point of exit for the free end.
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Structure
Blake's Hitch Details Uses: Blake's Hitch is a Friction, or Slide and Grip, hitch. It is used by arborists for ascent and descent. Like other Slide and Grip Knots, the strain should only be taken on the line below the hitch. Blake's Hitch itself should not be used for traction because pulling directly on the hitch loosens it and allows descent – unexpected and uncontrolled. Tying It: In practice it is an advantage to wind the first two turns while your thumb is inserted up alongside the climbing rope. This maintains a pathway to make it easier to thread the line. Note: This final threading must pass behind the main rope as shown. Additional Security: For photography, the free end has been kept short. However, in practice the end should be kept long. Some writers used to suggest the addition of a stopper knot for security, e.g., a Double Overhand or a Figure 8. Histroy: Blake's Hitch was first described by Heinz Prohaska in an Austrian Guides Periodical in 1981 and then again in the Nylon Highway #30 in May 1990. However Jason Blake described it in a letter to the Arbor Age in 1994. It is now widely known as Blake's Hitch and this name is used here. Pros and Cons: Like the Rolling Hitch, Blake's has the advantage that it can be tied in the end of a piece of rope instead of requiring a Prusik Loop. In practice it is a stable knot which does not creep or roll along the rope. http://www.animatedknots.com/blakes/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Blood Knot Δημιουργία θηλειάς The Blood Knot is used to join two fishing lines of similar size.
Blood Knot Tying Overlap the two lines to be joined. Wrap one end around the other line about six times. Tuck the end back between the lines. Repeat the process with the other line, tucking the end back between the lines in the opposite direction. Tighten and trim. Note: in nylon tightening this knot alters the appearance.
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Blood Knot Details Uses: The Blood Knot is a favorite knot for fly fisherman. It is primarily used to join two lines of similar size, e.g., when joining sections of leader or tippet, and is one of the best knots for this purpose. The strength of the knot depends on making at least five, and up to seven, turns on each side of the center Pulling the Knot Tight: When lubricated and pulled tight, the knot changes its structure. Pulling on each line forces the wrapped turns to redistribute the twists so that the inner strand becomes an outer wrap (not illustrated in the animation using rope). Tying it: There are several methods of tying it. The animation above shows each half being created separately, which provides a good picture of the structure. Alternative: An alternative method is to just overlap the two ends and twist them together for about ten to fourteen turns. Then go to the center of the twists and create a hole. Pass the two ends the opposite way through the hole. Whichever method is used, the knot is usually symmetrical about the middle. Although the twists usually continue in the same direction either side of the center as shown in the animation, it can be tied so that the wraps are mirror images of each other. Advantages: The Blood knot is a simple, easily learned and very effective way of joining two similar sized lines. http://www.animatedknots.com/bloodknot/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Bowline The Bowline makes a secure loop in the end of a piece of rope. It can be used to secure a line to a ring or post. When there is no strain it can easily be undone.
Bowline Knot Tying Form a small loop leaving enough rope for the desired loop size. Pass the end of the rope through the loop as though making an overhand knot. Continue around the standing end and then back through the small loop. The Bowline is identical in structure to the Sheet Bend ‐ in both knots a bight locks into a loop. However, in the Bowline the tying is carried out using the bight whereas in the Sheet Bend it is usual to use the loop.
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Structure
Bowline Knot Details Uses: The Bowline (ABOK # 1010, p 186) makes a reasonably secure loop in the end of a piece of rope. It has many uses, e.g., to fasten a mooring line to a ring or a post. Under load, it does not slip or bind. With no load it can be untied easily. Two bowlines can be linked together to join two ropes. Its principal shortcoming is that it cannot be tied, or untied, when there is a load on the standing end. It should therefore be avoided when, for example, a mooring line may have to be released under load. Name: The name Bowline derives from "bow line". The Bow Line Knot secured the line holding the weather leech of a square sail forward to prevent it being taken aback.
One Handed: The bowline can be tied with one hand ‐ useful if injured, essential if you are using the other hand to hold on to the line or the boat! Left Handed Bowline: When tied as shown in the animation, the tail lies in the middle of the loop. Passing the end the opposite way round the standing end forms a "Left Handed" bowline (ABOK # 1034 1/2, p 188) (see left). The left handed version performs satisfactorily but is generally regarded as less relable then the standard bowline. Length of Tail End: An intermittent load, e.g., on a mooring line, may cause many knots to slip or loosen. The bowline is relatively tolerant of such stresses. Nevertheless some texts quote a rule of thumb which states that, for safety, the length of loose end should be 12 times the circumference. A half‐inch diameter rope would require a tail more than eighteen inches long but this is rarely seen in practice. Safety Knot: Climbers typically pass the tail outside the loop and under the collar to form a Yosemite Tie‐off (left) or they fasten the tail with a double overhand knot either to the adjoining loop or to the standing end (right & below). Shakes Undone If Not Loaded: A bowline makes a poor safety knot for a swimmer. When a bowline is unloaded, it can very readily work its way untied ‐ I know, it has happened to me! Fortunately I only lost a scrubbing brush.
Bowline on a Bight The Bowline on a Bight creates a double loop in the middle of a rope. It has a similar structure to a normal bowline. A bight of the rope is used to enclose both "standing ends".
Bowline on a Bight Tying In the middle of a piece of rope, form a bight. Make a loop and pass the end of the bight through it. Open up the bight and bring it around the entire knot until it encircles both standing ends. Tighten to complete the knot.
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Bowline on a Bight Details Uses: The Bowline on a Bight (ABOK # 1080, p 195) makes a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. It does not slip or bind. It is satisfying to start with a plain length of rope and finish with a secure safe loop in its middle (picture on right). See also the Alpine Butterfly.
Tying it: It should be easy to tie but because it is initially hard to visualize it can be confusing. This knot was one of the justifications for preparing these animations. Several Applications:
Foothold: It can be used to make a secure foothold in the middle of a piece of rope.
Bosun's Chair: Because two loops are created it has been claimed that it makes an emergency bosun's chair which is more comfortable than a single loop. One loop can go round each thigh with the free tail going round the chest for security. Alternatively, one loop would go round the chest and one round the thighs. However, unless the rope was a couple of inches or more in diameter it would require a demanding emergency to make one really appreciate the "comfort" of either of these bosun's chairs. Emergency Purchase: A Bowline on a Bight can also be used to gain some Bowline on a Bight Details Uses: The Bowline on a Bight (ABOK # 1080, p 195) makes a secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. It does not slip or bind. It is satisfying to start with a plain length of rope and finish with a secure safe loop in its middle (picture on right). See also the Alpine Butterfly. Tying it: It should be easy to tie but because it is initially hard to visualize it can be confusing. This knot was one of the justifications for preparing these animations. Several Applications:
Foothold: It can be used to make a secure foothold in the middle of a piece of rope. Bosun's Chair: Because two loops are created it has been claimed that it makes an emergency bosun's chair which is more comfortable than a single loop. One loop can go round each thigh with the free tail going round the chest for security. Alternatively, one loop would go round the chest and one round the thighs. However, unless the rope was a couple of inches or more in diameter it would require a demanding emergency to make one really appreciate the "comfort" of either of these bosun's chairs.
Emergency Purchase: A Bowline on a Bight can also be used to gain some additional purchase: create a Bowline on a Bight in the rope; pass the free end of the rope round a post, then back through the loops and finally to the post again. This gives a three to one purchase ‐ admittedly with some friction. However, see also the Trucker's Hitch.
additional purchase: create a Bowline on a Bight in the rope; pass the free end of the rope round a post, then back through the loops and finally to the post again. This gives a three to one purchase ‐ admittedly with some friction. However, see also the Trucker's Hitch.
Braid a Single Rope A single rope can be braided by pulling one end through the loop repeatedly.
Braiding a Single Rope Make a loop which is about the length needed for the braid. Pass the end through the loop. Twist the loop to create the next hole for the end to pass through. Repeat as often as required to complete the braid.
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Braiding a Single Rope Details Uses: Braiding several strands is often learned in childhood as a way of controlling long hair. This animation demonstrates how to make a braid with a single piece of rope.
Methods: The animation shows the braid being tied with the rope's end being threaded through the loop. In practice braiding is made in the usual way. The strands are manipulated close against the braid ignoring the fact that the end and the loop are getting tangled. Then after adding several braids, the end is pulled clear of the loop.
Brummel Demo Demonstration of the Brummel Splice Structure
How the Brummel Splice is constructed. Making a Brummel Eye Splice using Both Ends Make a hole in the long end and pass the short end through it. Then, make a hole in the short end and pass the long end through it. Snug the splice together and pass the tail of the short end down the center of the long end.
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Brummel Eye Splice using Both Ends Details Warning: in practice use a much longer tail and a more gradual taper – see below. The short ends were used here to allow close‐up photography. Brummel Structure: The animation shows how the Locked Brummel can be tied when both ends are available to be threaded through the rope. In practice, using a fid makes the process easier, especially when passing the long buried tail up the center of the standing end. The Brummel Lock: When completed, the two parts of the splice lie closely against each other to make the lock. However, the lock distorts the fibers and would lower the breaking strain if used alone. Strength: The intended strength is derived from the long tail being tapered and buried through the center of the standing end – which exerts a powerful gripping action under tension; the force in the standing end is progressively shared between the two lines. The final strength should be 90 ‐ 100% of the rope's breaking strain. More Details: For more information about Making the Holes, Tapering the End, Ideal Length, and Stitching visit the pages about the Locked Brummel ‐ Using One End and the Long Bury Splice.
Brummel Eye Splice Create Eye Splice in Hollow Braid Rope A technique to create a locked eye splce in a hollow braid rope.
Making a Brummel Eye Splice Making a Mark the length needed for the eye. Make a hole at each mark and pass the end through and pull. Choose the hole nearest the end and pull a bight and the other hole through. Then, through the second hole pull a bight. Snug the splice together and pull the short end through the center of the standing end.
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Brummel Eye Splice Details Warning: in practice use a much longer tail and a more gradual taper – see below. The short ends were used here to allow close‐up photography. The technique tends to be confusing and repetition is required to memorize and master the details. Make the Lock with One End: The animation shows how the Locked Brummel is tied when only the working end is available to be threaded through the rope. It is, of course, much easier to tie when both ends are available, because then there is no need to invert the two holes first. Measure: Mark the length of the long buried end by measuring off 72 diameters of the rope, e.g., 3 feet for a half‐ inch rope. Then measure off the length required for the final eye plus 3 rope diameters and make a second mark. Note: this additional length is necessary because the splice consumes some of this measured length. Create Two Inverted Holes: The whole key to making a Brummel splice is the creation of Brummel holes with spiral twisted sides. When a bight is passed back through them later, it restores the twists back to normal without using the long end. The two holes can be made in any order. Each hole should be made by carefully separating the strands – exactly an equal number on each side of the hole. The process of passing the end through the rope, creates the Brummel hole. The two holes should be made so that they line up and face the same direction. The section between these holes becomes the "Eye". Restore the First Hole: Choose the hole nearest the end and tuck the Eye through the hole followed by the second hole and some extra rope. This process can be awkward. It helps to stretch the hole first. A large fid may help or a bight of line can be wrapped around the rope and used to pull it through. Restore the Second Hole: Tuck the Eye through the second hole. Now, the fibers around both holes are restored to normal and the Brummel lock is complete.
Dress the Splice: This process may have restored the spiral twists around the sides of each hole but the rope is still distorted. The rope either side of the holes should be massaged back to restore normal spacing of the strands. Snug the two holes together. These maneuvers achieve exactly the same result as when both ends are available. Finishing the Splice: For maximum strength and reliability, the long tail end is tapered, buried, and stitched. Finally the throat of the splice is whipped ‐ see detailed descriptions of these procedures in the Long Bury Splice. Simpler Method: To obtain the same result using a simpler technique, visit the McDonald Brummel page.
Brummel McDonald Simpler Eye Splice in Hollow Braid Rope The McDonald technique offers a simpler method to create a locked eye splice in a hollow braid rope.
Making a McDonald Brummel Eye Splice With the rope marked and holes prepared, pass the end through the further hole to make the eye. Then pass the end through the near hole to twist the fibers either side of the hole. Pass the eye through this hole to untwist the fibers each side back to normal. Tighten to the locked position.
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McDonald Brummel Eye Splice Details Warning: in practice use a much long tail and a more gradual taper – see below. The short ends were used here to allow close‐up photography. In addition, a much larger eye is usually desired. McDonald Brummel Technique: Margie McDonald, who illustrates the Brion Toss/Margie McDonald series of Working Rope books, developed the technique shown in this animation. The result is a normal locked Brummel using a single end but her method reduces the steps and the complexity. The Difference: Only the hole near the end has to be inverted and then restored. The other hole makes the eye, does not have to be inverted and, therefore requires no restoration. Additional Brummels: McDonald's technique can be continued to produce a stack of Brummels. However, the strength of a Brummel splice derives from the long buried tail – not the Brummels themselves. Accordingly, only a single step is illustrated here with the assumption that that it is completed with a long bury. Technique only: The animation shows only the critical steps of her technique. For more information about Making the Holes, Tapering the End, Ideal Length, and Stitching visit the pages about the Locked Brummel ‐ Using One End and the Long Bury Splice.
Buntline Hitch The Buntline Hitch was originally employed to secure buntlines to square sails. It makes a secure hitch to a ring or a pole. A heavy load tends to tighten the hitch and may make it difficult to untie.
Buntline Hitch Tying Pass the tail around the pole. Make a complete turn around the standing end and then through the hole beside the pole. Form a Half Hitch to complete the knot.
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Buntline Hitch Details Uses: The Buntline Hitch (ABOK # 1847, p 310) was originally employed to secure the buntlines to the foot of the square sails. Repeated shaking and jerking by a flapping sail tended to tighten this knot ‐ hence its value. Structure When complete, the finished knot is a clove hitch around the standing end but the clove hitch is inverted when compared to the clove hitch in a Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. However, while it is being tied the first part of the knot should not be called a Half Hitch. Up to frame 5 in the animation the rope merely wraps around the standing end. Advantages: It is more secure than two Half Hitches and very resistant to shaking loose. Disadvantages: This knot cannot be tied under a load and, after being heavily loaded, it is more liable to jam and be awkward to release than two Half Hitches.
Other Uses: Although it is not obvious, the same knot is widely used for neckties, where it is known as the Four‐in‐ Hand Knot. The difference is merely in the material used and in the alignment of the final part of the knot so that the two ends emerge parallel. http://www.animatedknots.com/buntline/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Carrick Bend The Carrick Bend joins two ropes securely and can readily be untied ‐ even after a heavy load. It is recommended when joining two large tow‐line hawsers. The knot deserves to be better known and more widely used.
Carrick Bend Tying With one rope (blue) form a loop with the tail under the standing end. Pass the other rope (red) under the blue loop and then over and then under as shown. Thread the tail (red) across the loop passing under itself. Then pull both standing ends to tighten the knot.
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Carrick Bend Details Uses: The Carrick Bend (ABOK # 1439, p 263) joins two ropes together. Ashley describes it as "the bend commonly tied in hawsers and cables." It is also makes the center of the very decorative Lanyard Knot. Structure: The knot curls up under strain and the attractive, mat‐like appearance vanishes. It is important that the tails lie diagonally opposite each other; if tied incorrectly, an intermittent pull will gradually work the knot towards the tails until it is undone! Place: Because the Carrick Bend is reliable and has the enormous advantage of being easy to undo, it probably deserves to be used more often. However, it is slightly awkward to assemble and it is easy to make a mistake: you can have both tails on the same side of the knot; or one of the crossings may be incorrect. These other versions of this knot perform far less well.
Compare: The Carrick should be compared to the Alpine Butterfly Bend. They are both excellent bends composed of interlocking loops, and both remain easy to untie after a heavy load. http://www.animatedknots.com/carrick/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Carrick Bend Mat The Carrick Bend is the basis for the design of this small mat.
Carrick Bend Mat Tying Form a loop and then lay the rope across it. Pass the end of the rope across the loop using an alternating over and under sequence. Follow the same path around again still using the over and under sequence. Tuck the end in and secure it.
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Carrick Bend Mat Details Origin: This simple mat was given a number by Ashley (ABOK # 2287, p 371) but no name. It bears a strong resemblance to a Carrick Bend (ABOK # 1439, p 264), which is the name we have chosen for it. Over and Under Sequence: This small design is a member of a family of knots in which the crossings are taken alternately over and under. This is one of the smallest versions and makes a pleasing small mat. Turk's Head Family: The design is also a member of the Turk's Head family. It is presented here as a flat knot. However, the same knot can also be formed so that the pattern stands on edge around a larger central hole. This can be described as a three‐lead, four‐bight Turks Head in which the rope has been passed around a second time. Finishing the Mat: The two ends can be secured in one of several ways. When the mat is purely decorative, and the material is one that melts, the two ends can be heated in a flame and fused together. However, to do this
necessitates passing the ends across other turns. The mat then has a thicker section and is less suitable as a tablemat. Another way to finish the mat is to attach each end to the neighboring turn using needle and thread, glue, or twine and constrictor knots. Whichever method is chosen, the junction should be located under another turn as demonstrated in the animation. Additional Turns: Although only two complete turn are shown in the animation, one or more additional turns can be added using the same technique to enhance the final appearance. Uses: Small rope mats make excellent tablemats and hot pads. Ashley provides a huge selection of designs, some of which are very elaborate with many crossings. Some of the larger versions make useful stair treads and chair covers. Choice of Material: If the rope or cord is too limp, the mat's pattern will not be very stable. A cord with some degree of lengthwise rigidity and firmness is an advantage.
Celtic Knot Mat The Celtic Knot makes a pleasing rope mat with a rectangular shape.
Celtic Knot Tying Use a strict under and over sequence to tie a simple Celtic Knot. Then follow the first strand round the same path to finish at the original starting position.
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Celtic Knot Details Origin: Our simple example of a Celtic Knot appears to be identical to the starting layout for Ashley's Six‐Stranded Platted Mat (ABOK # 2256, p 365), except that we used his starting position and followed the pattern round a second time whereas Ashley shows it as the basis for a more complicated mat.
Celtic Knots: Many different patterns and designs claim to be Celtic Knots. They vary in size and complexity with shapes that include rectangles, squares, triangles and circles. We included this simple example here because one writer asked us why we had selected it as the icon for our decorative knots section but failed to show how to tie it! Additional Turns: Only two complete turns are shown in the animation and space remains between the turns. For a more pleasing appearance, one or more additional turns are added using the same technique. The entire mat is then tightened to eliminate space between the turns. Uses: Small Celtic Knot mats make excellent tablemats and hot pads. Ashley provides a huge selection of designs, some of which are very elaborate with many crossings. Some of the larger versions make useful stair treads and chair covers. Finishing the Mat: The two ends can be secured in one of several ways. When the mat is purely decorative, and the material is one that melts, the two ends can be heated in a flame and fused together. However, to do this an end has to be passed across other turns. The mat then has a thicker section and is less suitable as a tablemat. Another way to finish the mat is to attach each end to the neighboring turn using needle and thread, glue, or twine and constrictor knots. Whichever method is chosen, the junction should be concealed under another turn as demonstrated in the animation.
Chain Sinnet, Chain Stitch or Monkey Braid The Chain sinnet converts a cord into a braid that has the appearance of a chain. It is used by climbers to store rope free of tangles, as a decoration, and to shorten and add bulk to a cord, e.g., for the end of a light pull.
Chain Sinnet (Monkey Braid) Tying Make a noose in the rope. Form a loop and tuck it into the noose. Make another loop and tuck it into the previous loop. Keep repeating. When the chain is long enough, lock it by passing the end through the final loop.
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Chain Sinnet (Monkey Braid) Details Uses: The Chain Sinnet (ABOK # 2868, p 472) is tied by many of us as children. It turns a piece of string into a pleasing chain. And, when pulled, all of the knots vanish as if by magic. It is found on dress uniforms; it can be used to shorten, and add bulk to, the end of a light pull; and it is also used by climbers as a means of preventing a rope getting tangled, e.g., when being washed or stored. Other Names: It is known by many names including: Daisy Chain, Monkey Chain, Monkey Braid, Single Trumpet Braid, Single Bugle Braid, Chain Stitch, Crochet Stitch, and Chain Braid. Structure: Tie a Slip Knot in the rope; tuck a bight into the loop; and repeat. Complete the chain by feeding the end through the final bight. The chain is released by withdrawing the end. It has to be the end you used to complete the chain. Withdrawing the other end merely shortens the chain by one link. Alternatives. The animation above shows a chain that has been pulled tight at each link. When used for storing rope, it is much quicker to make much larger loops. Disadvantages: Although it may be useful when washing a rope in a washing machine, it would be a tedious method to use to "coil" a long rope. The conventional Coiling Technique is to be preferred. Advantages: The Chain Sinnet requires minimal skill or dexterity!
Chain Splice The Chain Splice securely attaches a three‐stranded rope to an anchor chain using a modified eye‐splice. It allows the rope to follow the chain over the windlass and into the chain locker without tangles.
Chain Splice Tying Tape rope. Unravel enough for 5 ‐ 7 tucks. Pass the strands into the chain ‐ one strand one way through the chain and two strands the other way. Splice each strand back into the standing end of the rope. Repeat for the second set of tucks, and the third and fourth. Use five to seven sets of tucks for security.
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Chain Splice Details Uses: The Chain Splice is a modification of the Eye Splice described by Ashley (ABOK # 2725, p 445). It is particularly useful when a chain/rope combination passes over a windlass and descends into a chain locker. Structure: Technically it is a miniature Flemish Eye (ABOK # 2751, p 449) completed with additional tucks. Note: for photography, only five sets of tucks were completed. Seven complete sets of tucks are recommended.
Preparation: To prevent chaos, burn the three ends and wrap the rope at the correct length. For seven tucks, measure at least 21 times the rope's diameter and wrap the rope with tape or a Constrictor Knot tied in twine. Unravel the strands back to the tape or twine. Making the Splice: Pass two strands together through the end of the chain and pass the third strand in the reverse direction. It is neatest when the single strand passes between the other two. Lay the three strands down beside the rope and thread them through adjacent standing strands as close to the chain as possible. Complete the remainder of the splice by tucking each tail over and under standing strands. Practical aspects: As when making the Eye Splice, keep each end as neat and tightly wound as possible ‐ at least for the first three tucks. After the first tuck is completed for all three stands, the wrapping tape (or the constrictor) should be removed so that the splice can be tightened against the chain. Remember to twist each tail tightly before pulling on it! Durability: By its nature, a chain splice may be subject to heavy load and chafing. It should be inspected if used frequently and a worn splice should be cut off and remade a few inches further up the rope. However, in many yachts where the anchor is only used occasionally, the chain may rust and become untrustworthy long before the splice shows significant wear! http://www.animatedknots.com/chainsplice/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.a nimatedknots.com
Cleat Hitch (Deck) The Cleat Hitch attaches a rope to a cleat. It is frequently used to secure a mooring line to a dock cleat. It has many other uses, e.g., for dinghy bow lines, and sheets. Linked to this page is a another page about cleating a halyard.
Cleat Hitch for a Dock Line Tying Do not bring the line around the near horn. Go around the far horn, then around the other, and back across the middle. Continue making several more figure 8 turns around each horn. There is often spare rope left unused. Coiling the rope as a Flemish Flake is a common option. However, it collects dirt and eventually leaves a spiral stain on the deck. A better solution is to use the tail to tie a Rolling Hitch around the Standing End. This is secure and keeps the deck clear.
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Flemish Flake Options: Deck, Halyard
Rolling Hitch
Cleat Hitch for a Dock Line Details Uses: The Cleat Hitch secures a rope to a cleat. It is deceptively simple and an unwary skipper who invites visitors to cleat a mooring line may be astonished and dismayed by the unsatisfactory results. See also using a cleat hitch for Securing a Halyard. First Horn: Initially the rope must be led round the most distant horn of the cleat followed by a turn in the same direction round the other horn. Starting round the wrong horn increases the risk of a jam. No Round Turn: After passing the rope around two horns of the cleat, always cross over and make figure 8 turns afterwards. This is because the Figure 8 Turns lift the rope up against the horns and out of the way of the first turn. There is a risk if the initial turn continues around and under the first horn a second time (making a complete round turn). Now if a towline briefly becomes slack, the initial turn can separate away from the cleat and then clamp down on top of the second turn making it impossible to release the rope while there is load on the towline. No Locking Hitch? Several skippers have written to say that there are situations when a Locking Turn should not be used:
Large Vessels: The uniform practice on large vessels is to never cleat the ropes. Towing: Never cleat either end of a towline. First, a towline should always be monitored. Second, the ability to quickly release either end is essential. Sheeting a Sail: Never cleat the sheet controlling a sail – rapid release may be critically important in preventing a disaster, e.g., a capsize.
Use a Locking Hitch? In other situations a locking hitch is commonly used, e.g., the dock lines for a yacht left in a harbor, the halyards cleated to the mast, and flag halyards. Number of Turns: In most of Ashley's illustrations he shows astonishingly few turns. However, he was writing when tarred hemp was the rope of choice. Today's ropes may be stronger, thinner, slippery, and more elastic (nylon rope stretches by more than 5% when loaded to 20% of its rated breaking strain). Some modern illustrations still show only a single crossover followed by a Half Hitch. An intermittent load on a nylon rope may transmit tension to the Half Hitch and make release awkward. I am indebted to Kevin Redden for the following practical advice: two crossovers is the bare minimum, and only for temporary use in sheltered conditions. In all other situations, always add more – certainly enough to handle any storm load. History: "Belaying a rope" means securing it or making it fast. Before cleats were common, a rope used to be secured to a vertical pin in a wooden beam called, of course, a "Belaying Pin". Ashley describes several variations including the use of a single hitch by itself (ABOK # 1594, page 284). Acknowledgements: Several people have written to provide suggestions about this knot. In particular it is a pleasure to thank Kevin Redden who explained the risk of using a full round turn and provided a recommendation about the
number of crossover turns. http://www.animatedknots.com/cleatdeck/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Cleat Hitch (Halyard) The Cleat Hitch attaches a halyard to a cleat.
Cleat Hitch for a Halyard Tying Pass the rope around the bottom horn and on around over the top. Continue down across the middle, and then up across again. Twist a loop in the rope and hook it on the cleat as a Half Hitch.
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Cleat Hitch for a Halyard Details Uses: The Cleat Hitch secures a rope to a cleat. It is deceptively simple and an unwary skipper who invites visitors to secure a halyard may be astonished and dismayed by the unsatisfactory results. First Horn: A mooring rope reaches a deck cleat at an angle and must be led round the most distant horn of the cleat first. By contrast, a halyard usually falls roughly parallel to the cleat and, inevitably, goes around the lower horn first. The direction chosen is often arbitrary. No Round Turn: As shown in the animation, the rope passes around the first two horns in the same direction. For a halyard there may little harm in continuing in the same direction around the lower horn again. However, for safety, a uniform technique is recommended when Mooring, Towing, and Cleating a sheet: always cross the center after the first two horns.
Tightening a Halyard: A halyard may be subject to a considerable load. On older sailing boats, there may not be a winch. After the rope has passed around the bottom and top horns, one person holds the tail and takes up slack while another swings sideways on the rope above to gain the slack. History: "Belaying a rope" means securing it or making it fast. Before cleats were common, a rope used to be secured to a vertical pin in a wooden beam called, of course, a "Belaying Pin". Ashley describes several variations including the use of a single hitch by itself (ABOK # 1594, page 284). Number of Turns: In most of Ashley's illustrations he shows astonishingly few turns. However, he was writing when tarred hemp was the rope of choice. Today's ropes may be stronger, thinner, slippery, and more elastic (nylon rope stretches by more than 5% when loaded to 20% of its rated breaking strain). The animation shows only a single crossover before the crossover with the Half Hitch. An extreme load may transmit tension to the Half Hitch and make release awkward. For this reason, additional crossover turns are commonly used. http://www.animatedknots.com/cleatvert/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Clove Hitch (Half Hitches) The Clove Hitch is formed by making two Half Hitches. It can be used to attach a rope to a pole or ring. Because it is simple, it is widely known. However, it must be used with caution because it can jam or slip. This page links to a another page showing how to tie the Clove Hitch using the end.
Clove Hitch tying using Half Hitches Form a loop in the working end of the rope. Place it over the post. Form a second loop identical to the first. Place it over the post and tighten.
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Clove Hitch using Half Hitches Details Alternatives: In addition to tying it Using Half Hitches, the Clove Hitch can also be tied by Threading the End and by Using Stacked Loops Caution: The Clove Hitch (ABOK # 1245, p 224) was, originally, included here with the intention of condemning it. It does have two giant faults: it slips and, paradoxically, can also bind. It should be deeply distrusted when used by itself. Uses: As shown in this animation, the Clove Hitch can make a quick hitch. Only two Half Hitches were used. To make the hitch secure, additional Half Hitches must be added in the same manner. The Clove Hitch has various applications. For example, in the theater it is used to adjust the height of stage curtains hanging from a bar; and in
boating it can be used to initially position a fender hanging from a rail. Both are described in the section about the Clove Hitch tied by Threading the End. Dangers: As stated above, the Clove Hitch's problems are slipping and binding: Slipping: I watched a friend trying to dock his 53' Hatteras. Each time the bow mooring line was handed to the marina assistant, he used a clove hitch to attach the line to the dock's post. The offshore wind was blowing the stern away so my friend used his engines to swing the stern in. Each time he did so the strain was too much for the Clove Hitch, which slipped undone. This process was repeated seven times despite increasingly forceful requests that some other knot be employed to secure the line. Reviewing the events later it became apparent that the assistant was using the only knot he knew. It is not a knot to be used alone. Binding: Finally, if you make the knot secure by stacking on additional Half Hitches, i.e., multiple clove hitches, then you are inviting a major strain to cause the earlier turns to bind tightly and become impossible to untie. So, if on a boat you feel an urge to use a clove hitch ‐ resist! Choose something else unless you are merely hanging a fender. Alternatives: There are good alternatives available:
Mooring: o A Round Turn and Two Half Hitches o Rolling Hitch o Bowline o Cleat Hitch Temporary whipping for a frayed rope end o Constrictor Knot
Paradox: When you tie the round turn and two Half Hitches, in the process you actually create a clove hitch round the standing end! http://www.animatedknots.com/clovehalfhitches/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website= www.animatedknots.com
Cobra Knot The Cobra Knot creates a neat lanyard. It is commonly used in military shoulder lanyards.
Cobra Knot (Solomon Bar or Portuguese Sinnet) Tying Make a loop and tie an overhand knot. Tie a half knot around the loop and tighten. Keeping the same rope in front, tie another half knot and tighten. Keep repeating. Leave the last several knots loose (only two shown here). Tuck the ends inside the loose knots. Tighten the loose half knots and trim the ends off.
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Cobra Knot (Solomon Bar or Portuguese Sinnet) Details Uses: The Cobra knot (Solomon Bar or Portuguese Sinnet) is one of the commonest lanyard knots. It is very widely used in military shoulder lanyards and in many macrame patterns Application: When completed as shown in the animation, it provides an excellent lanyard pull for a snap shackle. The finished lanyard can be attached to the pull‐ring using a Girth Hitch. Variations: The version shown here uses a stack of alternating Half Knots. In effect it is a stack of Square Knots tied around a core. Alternatively, the same Half Hitch can be repeated, making a stack of granny knots; the result is a neat spiral. Macrame Names: Unfortunately macrame uses totally different names. The two Cobra versions are known as a Square Knot and a Spiral Stitch.
Coil Attached Rope How to coil an attached rope like a halyard or a sheet and then secure the coil so that it can be readily undone to run out freely when required.
Attached Rope Coiling Start from where the rope is attached to the cleat. Leave enough slack to form the final loop. Make the coil with alternate turns over and under the rope. Pull a twisted loop of the slack through the coil. Hang the loop on the cleat.
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Coiling Attached Rope Details Uses: An attached rope, e.g., a halyard, can be hung from the cleat or belaying pin (ABOK # 3088, p 513) using a twisted bight. The bight supporting the coil can be unhooked very quickly to allow the coil to be rapidly released: when the coil is laid on the deck the rope should run freely without kinks or tangles.
Never Wrap the Coil with the Tail End: Tension on the halyard can tighten the turns in the coil around the bight and can make releasing the bight almost impossible. Variations: The animation demonstrates a round coil being made where the tail is secured to the foot of the mast. The coil is started from the cleat. Alternating turns are laid over (Frame 3) and under (Frame 4) to avoid twists. There are several options.
Figure 8 Coil: A Figure 8 coil (right) can be used to avoid introducing twists and can be secured in the same way. Nothing to Hang the Coil On: If there is no space on the cleat to hang the coil on, the coil can be finished like the Unattached Coil: the halyard is used to wrap the coil and then a bight of it is passed over the top of the coil. This method takes slightly longer to release the coil. More Secure Loop: If the slack is left long enough, the twisted loop can be passed behind the tight halyard before being hooked on the cleat. In heavy weather, the halyard is then more likely to stay securely coiled but can still be released very rapidly. Untwisted Wraps: As an alternative to hanging the coil on a twisted loop, a larger bight can be left and then wrapped two or three times through the coil before being hooked on to the cleat. These turns bind the coil and may hold it more securely.
Coil Unattached Rope How to coil an unattached rope in your hands and make a secure bundle which preserves the coil neatly.
Coiling Unattached Rope Start making a coil in your hand. Each alternate strand is inverted. Continue making loops alternating over and under. Wrap the end around the coil several times. Pass a bight through the coil. Spread the bight out and bring it back down over the coil. Pull tight.
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Coiling Unattached Rope Details Uses: A free, or unattached, rope (like a climbing rope) is best stored in a neat coil (ABOK # 3089, p 513). The coil should be well secured so that it will remain tidily coiled and can be used quickly and easily without tangles or twists. This technique of coiling a rope is also known as a Buntline or Gasket Coil Making the Coil: Start by leaving the end slightly longer than the coil ‐ so it remains outside the coil to avoid tangles. To make each turn form a neat loop, twist the rope slightly as you lay it in your hand. To avoid introducing multiple twists, however, twist alternate turns in opposite directions. These alternate turns lie "under" the line rather than "over" it, as shown in frame 5 above. Alternating over and under turns avoids the accumulation of multiple twists in the rope. Finishing the Coil: The coil is finished by winding the rope tightly round the coil ‐ with a finger (or your hand for large ropes) still inside the coil to maintain the lay of the turns. These turns start away from the end and work upwards towards your hand Finally, a bight is passed through the coil where your fingers were. The bight is spread out and tightened around the coil to preserve this lay until you need to use the rope. Note: The wrapping turns do introduce twists into the rope. However, because only a short end is involved the turns are easily shaken out. Using the Coil: After unwrapping, the coil should be laid on the ground with the end used to start the coil underneath; this end should have been "left outside the coil" at the beginning, and should remain undisturbed even if the rope is allowed to run out rapidly. The end used to wrap the coil should release without twists or tangles. The reason that this method of uncoiling is important is that it has to be used to allow a halyard to run freely and practice makes perfect. Figure 8 Coil: Another popular technique for avoiding twists and tangle is the Figure 8 Coil (left): no twist is put in the rope as you form each turn. Instead each turn is laid as a
stack of overlapping Figure 8 turns. The coil is completed in the same way. The resulting coil is not as neat but maintains the rope ready for use and likely to run out with no tangles. Precautions: Avoid introducing twists by using either the Figure 8 Coil or the alternating over and under method shown in the animation. Closely observe any rope as it is paid out to ensure there are no kinks or knots. Climbing Rope: A Climbing Rope is long and heavy and requires special coiling technique's. That is because when completed, the bulk of a climbing rope makes it hard to hold to complete the coil as shown in the animation. There are two common alternatives:
Butterfly Coil: The Butterfly Coil is made behind your neck so the weight is taken on your shoulders. The Coil is made with the rope doubled. Starting from the mid point, the doubled rope is first laid loosely on the ground. Both ends are held in one hand – with about six feet (two meters) hanging free. The coil is formed behind your neck picking up the doubled rope first with one of your outstretched hands and then the other. The result is a large coil, made up of double strands laid in a Figure 8 pattern, hanging from your neck. The coil is then folded at the mid point ‐ where it passed behind your neck. The ends are used to wrap the coil and then tucked through and over the coil as shown in Frames 17 to 21. The finished coil can then be carried by tying the two ends around your body. Mountaineer's Coil: After the coil has been made, the end is passed through the center of the coil several times to wrap the turns and keep the coil neat. Because this technique requires the end to pass through the coil several times, when undoing the coil it is critical to carefully undo these wraps to avoid a tangle.
Common Whipping This simple whipping technique can be done quickly. During the whipping a loop is incorporated which is used to pull the final turn into the whipping.
Common Whipping Tying Lay the twine against the rope and wrap the long end around the rope about 8 turns. Make a bight in the short end. Wrap the long end about 8 more times around both the rope and the bight. On the final turn pass the long end through the bight. Pull the short end to hide and secure the long one. Trim the ends off.
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Common Whipping Details Uses: The Common Whipping (ABOK # 3443, p 546) is the classic simple whipping and can be tied with no needle. With a little practice, and the appropriate size of whipping twine, it creates a very neat appearance with no visible ends. Finishing the Whipping: This whipping can be made very close to the end of the rope, which is ideal if the end has already been melted. When the end has not been melted ‐ or is a material that cannot be melted by heat, it is better to secure the end temporarily with a constrictor knot or a piece of tape (as shown in the animation). Then trim off the excess when finished. For a rope that can be melted with heat, melt the end for additional security. Techniques: There are several variations of this whipping:
Wrapping a Bight just for the 2nd Half: As shown here, the second half of the whipping is wrapped around a bight formed using the first end. After the second set of wraps, the long end is inserted into this bight and pulled into the whipping. When waxed twine is used and the ends are trimmed, the exit point in the middle is almost invisible and the appearance of a neat stack is retained. Wrapping a Bight for the Entire Whipping: From the start, the entire whipping can be made round the bight. This variation is the one that Ashley refers to as the "Common Whipping". When the final end is inserted into this bight, care must be taken to pull the bight only half way into the whipping. If pulled completely through by mistake, then the original end just unwraps. Apply the Final Turns Using a Large Bight: For the second half, some people prefer to wrap the final set of turns using a bight: for the second half, lay the long end against the rope and use the bight to wrap the end and rope together until the bight is too small to make any more wraps. Then pull the long end to tighten the remnant of the bight. Ashley calls this the "Sailor's Whipping".
Advantages: This whipping looks very neat, is easy to learn and quick to make. Disadvantages: If one of the turns get snagged or cut, the whipping unravels very rapidly.
Constrictor The Constrictor Knot consists of a simple Half Hitch which is gripped by an overlying turn of the rope. This is what binds the knot and makes it hard to undo. This page also links to two other pages which demonstrate alternative ways tie this knot.
Constrictor Knot (Twisting Method) Tying Twist the rope to form a loose figure 8. Fold the loops down around the center to form the Constrictor Knot.
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Options: Twisting, Using End, Folding
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Constrictor Knot (Twisting Method) Details Uses: The Constrictor Knot (ABOK # 1188, p 216.) deserves to be much more widely known and used. It is an excellent quick temporary whipping for a fraying rope's end and can be used to keep a rope's end together while it is
being whipped. It securely ties the neck of a sack or bag; it has been used as a temporary hose clamp; and it can be used to hold items together for gluing. Alternatives: In addition to the Twisting Method, the Constrictor Knot can be tied by the Folding Method, and by Threading the End when tying this knot round a rail or bar. Using the Twisting Method: The Twisting Method is ideal for short lengths, e.g., when using a piece of twine to secure a fraying rope's end. However, the method cannot be used when using a longer piece of rope or when the rope has to be first passed around the object to be tied. Disadvantages: It fails when tied against a flat surface ‐ it requires a curved surface for the binding turn to grip the Half Hitch. Release: The knot can be very hard to undo ‐ cutting the knot can be the only resort. When this is necessary, the binding strand should be cut over the other constrictor strands, using them to protect your rope. Rope Size: The pictures here show the rope tied in large diameter rope. This is only for the photography. It is normally tied in twine or other small diameter line. http://www.animatedknots.com/constrictor/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Cow Hitch The Cow Hitch is two Half Hitches with the second Half Hitch different from the first here tied with the end.
Cow Hitch (Lanyard Hitch) using the End Tying Pass the rope around the object, back around itself, around the object in the reverse direction, and down beside itself.
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Cow Hitch, (Lanyard Hitch) using the End Details Alternative: In addition to Threading the End, the Cow Hitch can be tied Using Loops. Description: The Cow Hitch or Lanyard Hitch (ABOK # 1673, p 290) is similar to the Clove Hitch except that the second Half Hitch is in the reverse direction. Why Include it Here? It answers the question: "What happens when I tie a Clove Hitch but reverse the second turn?" Answer: "A Cow Hitch." The Clove Hitch and the Cow Hitch are close relatives with similar properties. Neither should be trusted alone for critical applications. Similar Knot: The Cow Hitch has a similar appearance to the Girth Hitch, which is tied with a sling loop and known by various names including Strap Hitch and Bale Sling Hitch. Names: In addition to "Lanyard Hitch", the Cow Hitch is also known as the "Lark's Head" – attributed to a literal translation from the French "tête d'alouette" (ABOK # 11, p 5). The subsequent transformation from "Head" to "Foot" is less readily explained. Nevertheless, the knot is also known as the Lark's Foot. Uses:
Archery: To protect the bowstring from damage caused by the mechanical release, the two ends of a short line are tied to the bowstring to form a "D‐Loop". Each end is attached to the bowstring using a Cow Hitch –
made more secure by heating each end to from a "Blob". Discussions in on‐line forums acknowledge this can fail and some have experimented with using a Constrictor instead. General: The Cow Hitch can be used as an alternative to the Clove Hitch. It can be used to secure a lanyard to a rope. It is just as likely to slip as the Clove Hitch but less likely to bind and be hard to untie. Although named the "Cow Hitch", Ashley comments (ABOK # 244, p 44) that the Clove Hitch was used to secure cows more often. He went on to describe watching as a cow, secured by a Clove Hitch, walked in a circle that unwound and untied the Clove Hitch. For this purpose at least, the Cow Hitch appears to be better suited to the task.
Pros and Cons: It is one of the quickest and easiest knots to learn but has relatively few critically useful applications. http://www.animatedknots.com/cow/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animat edknots.com
Crown Knot The Crown Knot is the first part of a Back Splice and a component of several decorative knots.
Crown Knot Tying Spread out the strands. Choose one strand and, continuing around in the direction of the rope's twist, lay it across its neighbor. Repeat with that strand. Repeat with the remaining strand tucking it under the first. Tighen it to form the first part of a Back Splice.
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Crown Knot Details Uses: The Crown is the critical first part of a Back Splice. When the end of a three‐stranded rope starts to fray, a crown should be tied immediately with a back splice to follow. This protects the rope until the back splice can be replaced with a whipping. Other uses. The Crown is also an essential component of several decorative knots including the Wall and Crown (Manrope Knot) and the Crown Sinnet Relationship to the Wall: The Wall and the Crown are very closely related. They are different because they are tied with respect to the rope. The crown directs the strands back down the rope, and the wall directs the strands away from the rope. They are in fact identical. If the strands had emerged from a central button ‐ with no rope to determine the "direction", there would be no way to distinguish a Wall from a Crown.
Crown Sinnet The Crown Sinnet is a family of knots all made using a series of Crown knots to create a thick decorative braid.
Crown Sinnet Knot Tying Bind the four ends together. Turn the ends towards you. Tie a crown knot and tighten. Reverse direction, tie another crown knot and tighten. Keep repeating. When all the crowns are tied in the same direction the result is a spiral version.
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Crown Sinnet Knot Details Uses: The Crown Sinnet (ABOK # 2912 and # 2915, p 479) is tied by many of us as children. It converts lengths of string or colored plastic into a pleasingly solid braid. Such braids become fashionable from time to time as decorative bracelets for wrist and ankle, or as straps for umbrellas, etc. The names employed depend on the craft. In particular the name "Square Knot" is used for different knots in different places. Sinnet is also spelled Sennet, Sennit, and Synet. Lanyard Making Names: The making of lanyards goes by various names including: craftlace, scoubidou, boondoggle, and gimp. The Crown Sinnet is probably the knot most frequently chosen. The version using alternating left turn and right turn crowns is called either a "Square Knot" or a "Box Knot". The version that repeats the same crown makes a spiral, known as a "Barrel". Military lanyards usually use two stranded crown knots tied around a two‐stranded core. The result is known a "Cobra" when the crowns alternate and a "Twisted Cobra" when same crown is repeated. Macrame Names: Unfortunately macrame uses totally different names. The two versions of the Cobra are known as a Square Knot and a Spiral Stitch. Structure: The sinnet is composed of a series of Crown Knots. It is usually made with either three or four stands ‐ although more are possible. Starting the Sinnet: For this demonstration, four colors, and therefore four cords, were used. A four stranded Crown Sinnet is often started using only two pieces of cord. The sinnet can then be started by laying the two cords across each other at their centers – the simplest way of making one end of the sinnet secure and neat. Finishing the Sinnet: The other end is completed by tying the cords to a ring or by securing the ends either by melting them or by Whipping them.
Diagonal Lashing A Diagonal Lashing is used for securing diagonal braces to hold a structure rigid.
Diagonal Lashing Technique Start with a single Timber Hitch around both poles. Wrap three of four turns around the two poles in one axis followed by three or four turns in the other axis. Tighten the lashing by surrounding it with three or four frapping turns. Finish with a Clove Hitch.
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Diagonal Lashing Details Use: The Diagonal Lashing (ABOK # 2115, p 343.) is used to lash two spars together. Unlike the Square lashing which works for right angle crossings, the diagonal lashing secures poles crossing each other at a variety of angles. Tying it: An initial Timber Hitch surrounds both poles. The choice of a timber hitch is important. Sometimes there is a gap between the poles. Pulling on the Timber Hitch closes the gap and allows the lashing to proceed with poles touching. A clove hitch around one pole could not be used to pull the poles together and might come untied. Use: As shown on the right, the diagonal lashing is used to join two diagonal poles that are being used to brace a rectangular frame. The location of one diagonal in front and one behind explains the gap between the poles commonly found in the center. Options: The animation shows the lashing made on poles that happen to be at right angles. Under such circumstances a Square Lashing might be as effective. However, when the angle between the poles is closer to 45 degrees, the diagonal lashing is more appropriate. Frapping Turns: The turns surrounding the lashing at right angles exert a tightening effect on the lashing. These turns are known as Frapping Turns. Pulling them as tight as possible makes the Lashing more secure. Various techniques are recommended, but I'm indebted to Dana Holgate for the following: wrap the rope around a stick, stand on the pole, bend your knees, hold the stick across your thighs and then pull by straightening your legs.
Figure 8 Directional Loop The Figure 8 Directional Loop creates a loop in the middle of a rope. It is designed for strain in one direction only.
Directional Figure 8 Loop Tying Make a loop in the rope. Pass the loop behind the standing end. Continue around and through the opening beside the tail. The knot is then tightened and dressed so that the outer loop finishes inside its neighbor.
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Directional Figure 8 Loop Details Uses: Ashley describes the Directional Figure 8 as the second of two examples of a "Single Bowline on the Bight" (ABOK # 1058, p 191). It creates a loop in the middle of a rope and is used as a load‐bearing knot by climbers to take strain in one direction only. In fact a strain from the wrong end actually capsizes the knot into one that slides, i.e., it functions as a noose so that the loop tightens under load. Tying it: The first steps of the animation show that the tail is enclosed by the initial loop. This is an essential step in tying the Directional Figure 8 correctly. Leaving the end outside this loop ties a knot that Ashley gives as the other example of a "Single Bowline on the Bight" (ABOK # 1057, p 191). Similar Knots: Several other knots create a loop in the middle of a piece of rope including the Alpine Butterfly Loop, the Bowline on a Bight, the Figure 8 Double Loop and, for fishing, the Dropper Loop.
Advantages: The Directional Figure 8 is quickly tied and is designed to take a load in one direction only. Disadvantages: The Directional Figure 8 can be difficult to undo after a shock load. It must not be used with the pull coming from the wrong end because of its propensity to capsize and constrict. For critical loads and when the load may be applied from either end, the Alpine Butterfly Loop is preferred. http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8directional/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=w ww.animatedknots.com
Distel Hitch The Distel Hitch is a reliable Slide and Grip (friction) Hitch designed to take strain in only one direction. It is tied using a lanyard with a loop at each end secured to a carabiner with a Double Fisherman's bend.
Distel Hitch Tying Use a lanyard with an eye at each end. Wrap the longer end around the climbing rope to make two Half Hitches. Then continue around and through the top Half Hitch three more times. Balance the lengths and pull tight. Attach the carabiner.
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Distel Hitch Details Uses: The Distel Hitch is a slide and grip knot used to ascend a climbing rope. It is tied using a lanyard with a loop in each end. Although any safe loop would be acceptable, each loop is usually secured with a Double Overhand around the lanyard. The Distel itself is based on a Clove Hitch but the "top" part of the hitch includes additional turns that form the spiral of rope responsible for gripping the main rope. The Distel is designed for tension in only one direction, which makes it especially suitable for use in climbing, e.g., by arborists. Variations: The animation shows a "4 over 1" Distel – with four complete wraps in the top section. This would be the recommended initial format. However, writers also describe the Distel using three turns at the top – a "3 over 1" arrangement. Experience and materials used will govern the choice. However, for safety, try the "4 over 1" first. Tying it: The animation shows the Distel being tied from below. This serves to emphasize that its structure is based on the Clove Hitch ‐ because that is what is first created. The experienced user will often start at the top. Either way, the knot should be dressed to ensure that the two ends are similar in length. Like other knots supporting critical loads, close inspection is appropriate to ensure that the hitch is tied correctly. Similar Knots: The other slide and grip knots intended for load in only one direction include the Rolling Hitch, the Klemheist, Blake's Hitch, the Icicle Hitch, the Schwabish, and the Vallard Tresse (or VT). Advantages: Amongst these various slide and grip knots, the Distel is a recommended knot for the arborist: it is reasonably easy to tie; the length of the lanyard is not too critical; it provides a nice ride; and both ends take the load. Disadvantages: Some writers report that the Distel has a slightly greater tendency to lock up and be hard to slide than, say, the Vallard Tresse. http://www.animatedknots.com/distel/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anima tedknots.com
Figure 8 Double Loop "Bunny Ears" The Double Figure 8 Loop creates two loops in the middle of a rope. The two loops created are stable and resist slipping and changing size.
Double Figure 8 Loop ("Bunny Ears") Tying With a long bight in the rope use two double loops to tie a Figure 8 knot. Then pass the end of the original bight under, up, and over the whole knot. Pull it tight to lock the two loops. With the final locking turn loosened, it is easier to see the underlying structure of the Figure 8 knot.
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Double Figure 8 Loop ("Bunny Ears") Details Structure: The Double Figure 8 Loop (ABOK # 1085, p 197.) is based on the simple Figure 8 knot (left). In the animation the two loops have been made small. In practice they are usually much larger. Uses: The two loops can be used as an improvised seat. It is also useful for equalizing the load on two anchors. In one top‐roping technique, the loops are made very unequal. The much larger one is passed around both anchor points. The center of this loop is then secured with a carabiner to the small loop. During rappelling, this ensures a more even distribution of load between the two anchor points. Stability: Compared to some of the other double loop knots, e.g., the French Bowline, the Double Loop Figure 8 is stable. It is unlikely to slip so that one loop gets larger at the expense of the other loop. http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8loopdouble/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=w ww.animatedknots.com
Double Fisherman's or Grapevine Bend The Double Fisherman's provides a secure method for joining two ropes of similar size. The knot is relatively compact and therefore better than some alternatives when retrieving a climbing rope.
Double Fisherman's Knot (Grapevine Bend) Tying Overlap the two ends. Wrap one end around both ropes two full turns. Then pass this end back through these turns and pull tight. Next pass the other end two full turns around both ropes. Pass this end back through and pull tight. Pull on both ropes to tighten the two knots against each other. Tha Back View of the Double Fisherman's is extremely neat and symmetrical. When ropes of the same color are used, it appears that four identical loops encircle the junction.
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Double Fisherman's Knot (Grapevine Bend) Details Structure: The Double Fisherman's, or Grapevine, Bend (ABOK # 294, p 50.) consists of two Strangle Knots (like double overhand knots) each tied round the other standing end. However, because it is created around another line, this structure may not be obvious. Safety: For load‐bearing using modern high modulus ropes such as Spectra, Dyneema or Kevlar/Technora, use a Triple Fisherman's (on left). In each stopper knot the rope is passed around a third time before being threaded back through the loops. The triple, or even quadruple, version is also used by fishermen to join two lengths of fishing line. Uses: The Double Fisherman's Knot (Grapevine Bend) is the way to form a Prusik Loop and is an excellent and reliable way of joining two climbing ropes. It can be used for a full rope‐length abseil; after which it is still possible to retrieve the rope. Inspection: The Double Fisherman's Knot (Grapevine Bend) is not complicated. Nevertheless, it can be tied wrongly and then fail. If you tie it and your life depends on it, inspect it carefully. If someone else ties it, inspect it extremely carefully. Pros: The Double Fisherman's is a well known, reliable, compact knot suitable for use when retrieving an abseil. Cons: The Double Fisherman can lock up so tightly that it is effectively welded. Although it is regarded as a standard method of joining climbing ropes, the Zeppelin Bend performs the same task but is much easier to undo because it does not jam. 1. The Figure 8 Bend may be bulkier ‐ especially when stopper knots are added for safety. It is however, relatively easy to teach and inspect. 2. The Flat Overhand Bend (an overhand knot tied with both ends together with lengthy ends) is the rope join least likely to get stuck (picture on right). This is because the two ropes enter the knot at the same point and, therefore, pass over an obstruction relatively easily. Its use as a join is approved and recommended by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). For additional safety it is also used with an extra overhand knot in the tails. It is commonly known as the "Euro Death‐Knot" (EDK) because when first encountered it was presumed to be dangerous. During testing it can roll over and fail and at least one accident has, perhaps wrongly, been associated with its use. However, some authorities feel that the Flat Overhand Bend (EDK) is an answer to problem which does not
really require a solution and, moreover, the knot creates a size problem which makes it harder to overcome by sending a wave up the line. 3. The Flat Figure 8 Bend is very similar but tied as a Figure 8 not an Overhand. it is far more dangerous despite its appearance. It fails by rolling over at modest loads even when the ends are long! It has been associated with a number of deaths, and is deliberately not illustrated here. Both of these knots have been extensively reviewed and tested by Thomas Moyer. He provides useful references to detailed accounts of accidents as well as the results of his tests in which both knots failed by flipping or rolling. He also provides a balanced view of the role for these knots and the opinion that: "I don't believe the flat‐overhand will ever fail under body weight if it is tied well." http://www.animatedknots.com/doublefishermans/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website =www.animatedknots.com
Double Matthew Walker The Matthew Walker provides a secure stopper in a rope which cannot be untied. It is closely related to the Wall but makes a more bulky and more effective stopper knot.
Double Matthew Walker Knot Tying Start with a Wall Knot. Position each strand near the one to follow. Gold follows red under blue and up through itself. Red follows blue under gold and up through itself. Blue follows gold under red and up through itself. Tighten carefully and re‐lay the rope. The final image shows a sequence of three stopper knots, each tied with the strands of the rope: the Wall, the Matthew Walker, and the Double Matthew Walker.
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Double Matthew Walker Knot Details Uses: The Double Matthew Walker (ABOK # 681 ‐ 3, p 118) provides a secure stopper that cannot be untied without unraveling the rope. It is included here because I have had multiple requests for it ‐ not for its intrinsic usefulness in boating today! Sequence of Stopper Knots: The Double Matthew Walker is a one of a sequence of knots that are created in the middle of a three‐strand rope. They are illustrated in the final frame of the animation.
The Wall: The simplest is the Wall (right), which was used to start this animation . When the wall is tightened and the strands laid up again to re‐form the rope, it creates a small permanent stopper knot. Matthew Walker: The Matthew Walker is a little simpler that the Double Matthew Walker. In the animation, each strand would be brought up one strand earlier. The Gold through the Red, the Red through the Blue, and the Blue through the Gold. It creates a stopper knot of intermediate size. Double Matthew Walker: The Double Matthew Walker is illustrated in the animation. It creates the largest of this sequence of permanent stopper knots.
Applications: Other than for decoration, modern yachts have virtually no use for a Matthew Walker. This is in striking contrast with the past when the Matthew Walker was widely used. Ashley (ABOK page 118) states, "It is the most important knot used aboard ship." He goes on to quote Todd and Whall in Seamanship: "Amongst knots proper the Matthew Walker is almost the only one which it is absolutely necessary for the seaman to know." It, or the Double Matthew Walker, was used on "topmast rigging lanyards, bunt beckets (rope loop), and the beckets of tubs and buckets." The words themselves are now just echoes of a distant past. Disadvantages: The Wall and both the Matthew Walkers all require the rope to be laid up again and then finished, preferably with an elegant whipping.
Double Overhand Knot The Double Overhand Knot makes a reliable stopper knot. It forms the basis for other knots such as the Double Fisherman's Bend.
Double Overhand Stopper Knot Tying Form a loop in the rope. Pass the end through it. Pass the end through the loop again. Tighten the knot to make a secure stopper knot.
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Double Overhand Stopper Knot Details Uses: The Double Overhand Knot (ABOK # 516, p 84) is based on the Overhand Knot with one additional turn. It creates a reliable, moderately large, stopper knot. Alternative Method: In addition to the technique shown in the animation, the Double Overhand can also be tied by threading the end of the rope through the coil (on left). This technique is the basis for tying other useful knots such as the Double Fisherman's Knot (right) and the Poacher's Knot or Double Overhand Noose. Uses with Other Knots: In addition to acting as a stopper knot in the end of a rope, the
Double Overhand Knot can also be used to increase the security of another knot: 1. The short end of the Figure 8 Loop Follow Through is tied around the standing end. 2. The short ends of the Figure 8 Bend are both tied around their adjacent standing ends. 3. Unless under load, a Bowline can shake loose. To virtually eliminate this risk, the short end is tied round the adjacent part of the loop (picture on left). Other Stopper Knots: The Figure 8 may be the most widely used, especially in boating, but it tends to come undone. The Ashley Stopper Knot deserves to be more widely used and known. The Matthew Walker requires three or four strand rope because it is tied with the separated strands. Therefore, after the strands are reassembled and whipped it cannot be just "untied". Its greatest use may be in smart installations such as rope handrails. http://www.animatedknots.com/doubleoverhand/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website= www.animatedknots.com
Dropper Loop ‐ Δημιουργία θηλειάς. The Dropper Loop makes a secure loop in the middle of a line. It allows an additional fly to be attached to the line.
Dropper Loop Tying Create a large loop in the middle of a line. Holding the center, wrap the loop around this crossover point about six times. Open a hole in the center and pass the loop through the hole. Lubricate, hold the loop with your teeth, and pull the knot tight. Note: in nylon tightening this knot alters the structure.
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Dropper Loop Details Uses: The Dropper Loop creates a loop that stands out at right angles to the middle of a length of line. It can be used in your leader or tippet to provide an extra attachment point for an additional fly. If desired the loop can be made long enough to set a hook directly on it. However, to minimize the risk of fouling and twisting this Dropper loop should not be too long. The Dropper knot is also used on multi‐hook fishing lines. Tying it: There are two main methods of tying it. The animation above shows the loop being wrapped round the overlap point that is held still with your fingers. Pulling the Knot Tight: When lubricated and pulled tight, the knot changes its structure. Pulling on each end forces the wrapped turns to redistribute the twists so that the inner strand becomes an outer wrap (not illustrated in this animation using rope). Alternatives: The same result can be obtained by keeping the loop still and twisting a matchstick in the overlap to make a spiral. The big loop is then passed through the hole occupied by the matchstick. Amos Baehr contributed an idea he discovered serendipitously when he tried a ballpoint pen instead of a matchstick: Use the clip in the cap of a ballpoint pen. Clip it on to one side of the loop and rotate it instead of rotating a matchstick. The weight of the pen is an advantage. Whichever method is used, the knot should appear almost symmetrical either side of the loop. Advantages: The Dropper Loop angles away from the line which helps to avoid tangles. http://www.animatedknots.com/dropperloop/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Duncan (Uni) Knot The Duncan (Uni) Knot is a versatile loop knot. The Uni series can take the place of most other fishing knots if necessary.
Duncan (Uni) Knot Tying Pass the end through the eye. Form a complete loop alongside the standing line. Working inside the loop, wrap the end around both lines five times. Lubricate, tighten so the loop spirals, and slide the knot to the desired loop size. With the loop on a post pull on the tag end and less hard on the standing line. Trim the end.
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Duncan (Uni) Knot Details Names: The Duncan Knot was originally named after its inventor Norman Duncan. It was also published later under the name Uni Knot by the outdoor writer Vic Dunaway as being a versatile knot that can have many applications. It is
also known as a Grinner Knot and has the same appearance as a Hangman's Noose although it is different internally. When used to join two lines it is known as a Double Grinner or a Double Uni Knot Transformation: The Duncan (Uni) knot undergoes a transformation as it is tightened. The outer wraps become internal and vice versa. Versatile: As described by Vic Dunaway it is the key component of his Uni Knot System – which can provide all of the applications needed for fishing with a single knot. To join two lines a Uni‐knot is tied around the other line. For Snelling, the knot is tied around the shank of the hook. Tying it: The animation shows that the Duncan Knot initially forms an adjustable loop. When finally tightened, the knot binds and becomes a fixed in proportion to the degree of tightening. When used for joining two lines (as in the Uni Knot system), each knot is tied around the other's standing end. Pros and Cons: The Duncan Knot works well with both braided and monofilament fishing lines, and with practice is fairly easy to tie in the dark. Claims that it retains a high proportion of line strength have been justified by recent testing arranged by Mack Martin that showed 82% of line strength. When tied a round a large diameter eye, it may retain strength well, but if used to join two lines, like other knots where a line passes around itself, a breaking strain around 75% is more likely. http://www.animatedknots.com/duncan/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anima tedknots.com
Eye Splice In three‐stranded rope, the Eye Splice creates a secure loop in the end of the rope. It may used, for example, to secure a rope to the bow of a dinghy, or a rope to a bucket handle.
Eye Splice Tying Tape rope. Unravel enough for 5 tucks (4 shown here). Arrange strands. Pass center one under a standing strand. Pass lower one under lower adjacent standing strand. Pass the upper strand under the upper adjacent standing strand. Repeat the process for the remaining sets of tucks. Remove the tape.
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Eye Splice Details Important: The Eye Splice and its variants are well described by Ashley (ABOK # 2725, p 445). Modern synthetic materials, however, tend to be slippery and, now, a minimum of five complete "tucks" is required. For mooring, towlines, and other long term or critical applications, seven tucks are recommended. The animation above only shows the threading of two complete tucks with the final image showing four tucks finished and tightened. Esssential Preparation: Secure the end of each strand by heat, tape or whipping twine. Measure the length to be unraveled and secure the rope at that length with tape or twine. The correct length to unravel is about 3 times the
diameter per "tuck", i.e., for five tucks in half inch diameter rope, leave the free strands at least 7.5 inches long; and for seven tucks at least 10.5 inches. Create the required size of loop and mark the rope. In the illustration above the mark would be where the first tuck is to be threaded. Technique: In tightly laid or large diameter rope, it may be difficult or impossible to pass each strand under the standing strand without a suitable tool. The following have all worked for me under different circumstances: Tape: One of the simplest methods is to merely wrap each end in masking tape (Right). This can provide you with a short "spike" to help feed each strand under the standing end. Spike: Alternatively, use a suitable spike to open up a standing strand (Left). It may stay open long enough for the strand to be threaded. I have used many different spikes including marlinspikes, pencils, pens, and needle nosed pliers. Fid: The best tool is undoubtedly a fid (Right), a spiked aluminum bar with a hollow end, which opens up the standing strand. You then push the strand through inserted in the tail of the fid. Structure As in weaving, each of the strands is passed first under and then over alternate standing strands. In the process, the free ends tend to untwist and become untidy. Handle each strand with care to retain its original twist. After each strand is threaded, it is helpful to twist it to keep its original form. However, after the first set of tucks, the strands should be allowed to spread and fit the form of the standing strands. Holding the Rope: Having prepared the ends and chosen which strand to thread where, it is then all too easy to get confused after it is threaded. Hold the other two tails in your hand, one each side of the rope; they will then be in the correct place when you want to choose an end to thread next (Left). Finishing the Splice: If the ends have been cut to the correct length, they will be used up in the splice. If they are a little too long, it is usually far less trouble to make another tuck than to cut them and re‐ burn them to stop them unraveling. The burned ends are usually slightly larger than the strand and this provides some additional security for the splice. Tapering the tails: It used to be fashionable to gradually thin the strands for an additional few tucks. In tarred hemp this made a very elegant tapered splice. Modern rope is sufficiently slippery to mean that the tapered tails tend to get dislodged and make the splice look very untidy. True tapering of individual strands is rarely done now and should probably never be attempted by amateur, occasional, splice makers. Alternative Taper: After sufficient tucks have been made for strength, cut and burn one strand and then continue the splice with remaining two strands. Cut and burn one more and splice the remaining strand before cutting and burning it too. http://www.animatedknots.com/splice/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anima tedknots.com
Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot The Figure 8 is a stopper knot ‐ it prevents the end of a rope sliding through a pulley or it can be used to add security to another knot. It is relatively easy to undo, is preferred to the Overhand Knot, but is not as secure as the Double Overhand.
Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot Tying Pass the tail over itself to form a loop. Continue under and around the standing end. Complete the knot by passing the tail down through the loop. Take care to avoid coming up through the loop which merely forms an overhand knot. It would still be a stopper knot but smaller and much harder to undo when pulled tight.
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Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot Details Uses: The Figure 8 (ABOK # 570, p 95.) provides a quick and convenient stopper knot to prevent a line sliding out of sight, e.g., up inside the mast. Its virtue is that, even after it has been jammed tightly against a block, it doesn't bind; it can be undone easily. This virtue is also, occasionally, a vice. The figure 8 can fall undone and then has to be retied. Comparison: As a stopper knot the Figure 8 should be compared to other knots commonly used as stoppers including the Double Overhand, and the Ashley, both of which have the advantage of greater stability. However, the figure 8 is better than the simple overhand knot (picture left), which can bind so tightly that undoing it can be really difficult. Climbing: For climbing, where safety is paramount, the Double Overhand is the preferred Stopper knot. However, the Figure 8 is important to climbers because it is the basis for tying the Figure 8 Bend (Rope Join), the Figure 8 Loop Follow Through, and the Double Figure 8 Loop.
http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8_/index.php?Categ=basics&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animate dknots.com
Figure 8, or Flemish, Bend or Join The Figure 8 Rope Join provides a secure, simple method for joining two ropes together. It is used in climbing, is fairly easy to undo, but creates a relatively bulky knot.
Figure 8 Bend (Flemish Bend) Tying Start by tying a loose Figure 8 knot in one of the ropes. Follow the same path in reverse with the other rope, starting beside the tail and exiting beside the standing end. The Figure 8 Bend is dressed so that both the outermost turns are separated away from the two ropes they were crossing and tightened down inside their neighboring ropes. The importance of dressing the knot is that when loaded, the structure of the knot remains unchanged as the loops tighten down tightly each end.
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Figure 8 Bend (Flemish Bend) Details Uses: The Figure 8, or Flemish, Bend (ABOK # 1411, p 258.) provides a safe, and simple way to join two ropes. It is reasonably easy to remember, tie, and check. Safety: For critical loads, e.g., yourself (!), it should not be used with ropes that differ much in size and for safety the ends should be longer. Finally, for real security, each end should be tied in a double overhand stopper knot around the other standing end ‐ see illustration to the left. Final Dressing: To ensure that the knot is tied correctly, it is sensible to tie it in the "Flat" form shown. However, for taking a load, this knot should be carefully dressed so that the two outermost turns are brought in snug against the ropes they enclose – as a result the turns then finish on the other side of the turns they accompany. Dressed this way the knot withstands a load better. Pros and Cons: The advantage of Figure 8 Bend is that even after considerable strain it remains relatively easy to undo. Inspection: Ensure that there are two strands beside each other at each part of the knot. Dress the knot as described above. Then, pull it and observe that it tightens neatly and symmetrically. http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8join/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Figure 8 Flake The Figure 8 Flake provides a method of laying out a rope on deck so that the rope will run out freely without twists, knots, or tangles.
Figure 8 Flake Coiling First remove all twists from the rope. Then start at the free end and lay the rope out in overlapping figure 8 layers so that it will run out freely without tangling.
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Figure 8 Flake Details Uses: Flaking a rope is to arrange it on the deck ready for easy use. The Figure 8 Flake (ABOK # 3110, p 517) allows the rope to be pulled rapidly off the deck with minimal risk of kinking, twisting, or knotting. Applications: It can be used: to lay out the furling line for a roller jib prior to unfurling the jib; to prepare an anchor rope before dropping the anchor; or to ready a dock line in preparation for passing the end ashore. It is also the best way to store a hose on the ground. Technique: The Figure 8 Flake is often used when a rope has been coiled and there is doubt about it running out freely ‐ for example if the coil has been made with all the turns in the same direction. Two complete passes of the rope are usually necessary. First start at the attached end and work along the length of the rope to the free end, carefully shaking out all of the twists. Then start at the free end and lay out the rope in the Figure 8 Flake.
Variations: For a long line in a confined area, a second layer of figure 8's can be laid at right angles to the first. Care is required to avoid catching turns of the first layer.
Figure 8 Follow The Figure 8 Follow Through creates a Figure 8 loop. It is used when the Figure 8 Loop is being linked to a closed ring or eye, or secured round a bar.
Figure 8 Follow Through Tying Start by tying a loose Figure 8 knot. Pass the tail around the attachment point. Follow the original Figure 8 around the entire knot in reverse. Exit beside the standing end to complete a two stranded Figure 8 knot. The Figure 8 Follow Through is dressed so that both the outermost turns are separated away from the two ropes they were crossing and tightened down inside their neighboring ropes.
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Figure 8 Follow Through Details Uses: The Figure 8 Follow Through allows the simple and reliable Figure 8 loop to be tied to a ring, a carabiner, or your own harness. It is reasonably easy to remember, tie, and check. When completed it forms a Figure 8 Loop (ABOK # 1047, p 190). Safety: For photography, this knot is shown above with a short tail end. For safety the end should be longer and, for load bearing, the end should be secured with a stopper knot around the standing end (see picture on left). Final Dressing: To ensure that the knot is tied correctly, it is sensible to tie it in the "Flat" form shown. However, for taking a load, this knot should be carefully dressed so that the two outermost turns are brought in snug against the ropes they enclose – as a result the turns then finish on the other side of the turns they accompany. Dressed this way the knot is better able to withstand a load. The Figure 8 Loop: When the knot can be dropped over a post, it is quicker and simpler to tie it like a Figure 8 knot using a bight instead of the end (picture on right) The Directional Figure 8: When a Figure 8 loop is being created to take a load parallel to the rope, the Directional Figure 8 Knot works well (picture left) Inspection: Ensure that there are two strands beside each other at each part of the knot. Dress the knot as described above. Then, pull it and observe that it tightens neatly and symmetrically. http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8follow/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.a nimatedknots.com
Figure 9 Loop The Figure 9 Loop makes a secure loop. It is similar to the Figure 8 Loop but is less liable to jam and claimed to be stronger.
Figure 9 Loop Knot Tying Form a bight. Wrap the bight around both ends to form a loop. Instead of coming up through the loop to make a Figure 8 Loop, pass the bight around again and then down through the loop to make the Figure 9 Loop. To dress the knot, bring the outer turns in and tighten them.
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Figure 9 Loop Knot Details How to Tie the Figure 8 Loop Knot
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Uses: The Figure 9 Loop (right) resembles the Figure 8 Loop (left). In climbing it is used as an end knot. It creates a strong loop, reasonably easy to untie, and can be used to attach a rapelling rope to an anchor. Advantages: The knot avoids sharp bends and, therefore, the rope retains about 70% of its strength. It is particularly suitable for use in smaller, flexible ropes and is harder to tie in heavier or stiffer ropes. Disadvantages: It uses more rope than the Figure 8 Loop and is more confusing to tie. Final Dressing: The animation shows the knot being tied in the elegant "Flat" form that makes structure easier to recognize. Once tied, however, the knot should be dressed and tightened so that the two outermost turns are brought in snug against the ropes they enclose (Frames 9 and 10). Tying it in practice: The Animation shows how the outer turns are pulled in. When further tightened, it appears as though several coils are encircling a pair of ropes.
Girth Hitch (Strap Hitch) The Girth Hitch is used to attach the loop of a webbing strap to your harness or another piece of webbing strapping. It is also known as the Lark's Head, the Cow Hitch, and the Lanyard Hitch. This page links to two other pages showing how to tie related knots.
Girth Hitch (Strap Hitch) Tying Pass the loop of the strap around the harness, strap, or rope. Thread the other end of the strap through the loop. Make sure the strap lies neatly and then pull it tight.
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Girth Hitch (Strap Hitch) Details Structure: The Girth Hitch (Strap Hitch, Bale Sling Hitch, Ring Hitch) (ABOK # 1694, p 294). Because it resembles the Cow Hitch it is, regrettably, sometimes known by names that more properly belong to the Cow Hitch, e.g., Lark's Head (and Lark's Foot), and Lanyard Hitch. Familiarity: The Girth Hitch should seem familiar because tying it employs the procedure we use to link two elastic bands. This familiarity provides a useful lesson. The two bands can be dressed to resemble either a Square (Reef) Knot or to take the form shown in the animation. To preserve strength when linking two slings, the knot must be arranged to resemble a Square Knot when it is then known as a "Strop Knot". Strength: The Girth Hitch weakens a sling, particularly if two straps are directly knotted to each other. This loss of strength is worse, e.g., close to 50%, when tied in the form used in the animation where one strap passes straight through and the other forms a collar around itself. To join two slings when strength is a concern, use a carabiner – not a Girth Hitch. Uses: The Girth Hitch attaches a sling or a webbing strap loop to your harness or to another sling, strap, or rope. It is also often employed when slings are used to connect anchor points to a static rope in a top‐rope set‐up. http://www.animatedknots.com/girth/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animat edknots.com
Half Hitch The Half Hitch is tied round an object and back to itself. Not secure alone, it is usually followed by second Half Hitch.
Half Hitch Tying Form a loop around the object. Pass the end around the standing end and through the loop. Tighten into a Half Hitch which is designed to take a load (Arrow) on the standing end. Add a second Half Hitch to make the knot secure. These steps illustrate the usual method of tying Half Hitches.
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Half Hitch Details Uses: Ashley described the Half Hitch (ABOK # 50, p 14) as "tied with one end of a rope being passed around an object and secured to its own standing part with a Single Hitch." Comparison: The animation shows the close similarity between:
The Overhand Knot – tied in the end of a rope; The Half Hitch – attaches a rope to something, e.g., a Hitching Post; The Half Knot – a binding knot – first part of a Square (Reef) Knot.
Tying it: As shown in the animation it can be capsized from looking like an overhand knot into the normal look of a Half Hitch. In this animation the second Half Hitch shows how it is customarily tied ‐ wrapping it round the standing end and tucking it under itself. Two Half Hitches: The first Half Hitch is nearly always followed by a second – or more. It is customary to pass the rope the same way around to make both Half Hitches. This creates a Clove Hitch around the standing end. When the second Half Hitch is reversed it creates a Cow Hitch round the standing end. Recommendations: Although two Half Hitches do make a complete "Hitch", it is better to begin by first passing the rope around the post or bollard a second time to make the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. This is more secure and provides easier control of the load while tying the Half Hitches. http://www.animatedknots.com/halfhitch/index.php?Categ=basics&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Half Knot The Half Knot is a binding knot used to join two ropes ‐ the first part of the Whole Knot ‐ the Square (Reef) knot. Half Knot Tying Cross the two ends over each other. Pass one end over and then under the other to make the Half Knot ‐ which takes the load (arrows) in both ropes. Add a second Half Knot to make the complete knot ‐ the Square (Reef) knot.
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Half Knot Details Uses: Ashley described the Half Knot (ABOK # 48, p 14) as "a binding knot, being the first movement of the Reef or Square Knot." Comparison: The animation shows the close similarity between:
The Overhand Knot – tied in the end of a rope; The Half Hitch – attaches a rope to something, e.g., a Hitching Post; The Half Knot – a binding knot – first part of a Square (Reef) Knot.
Tying it: As shown in the animation one end is wrapped round the other to produce a symmetrical knot. The symmetry is important because the knot can only "bind" when tied like this. If tied in the air ‐ it cannot bind and if it is allowed to capsize into the Half Hitch it will slip. Two Half Knots: The first Half Knot is nearly always followed by a second – or more. Remember to take note of which way you tied it, e.g., "Right over Left". This is important because to correctly tie the Square (Reef) Knot the next Half Knot must be "Left over Right". When the second Half Knot is a repeat of the first, it creates a Granny Knot.
Recommendations: Although two Half Knots make a satisfactory "Knot", its use should be restricted. The knot created, the Square (or Reef) knot, is notorious for its ability to capsize and slip. It must never be used for critical loads. Macrame: In Macrame, the Half Knot is frequently tied around a central core of two or more strands. Depending on how it is tied it is known by other names. When tied with repeated identical Half Knots, the result is a spiral or Bannister Bar (ABOK # 2494, p 400); when tied with alternating left and right Half Knots, the result is called the Solomon Bar (ABOK # 2496, p 400). http://www.animatedknots.com/halfknot/index.php?Categ=basics&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Handcuff Knot The Handcuff Knot is tied around the wrists or ankles when rescuing a trapped victim.
Handcuff Knot Tying Use the rope to form two identical loops. Overlap them as though tying a Clove Hitch. Then thread each loop through the other loop and tighten. Insert the victim's limbs into the loops, tighten, and apply traction.
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Handcuff Knot Details Origin: This knot was described by Ashley (ABOK # 1134, p 206) for use as a handcuff. However, the knot possesses minimal locking action and could never live up its name. For added security the two ends can be tied together with one or more Overhand Knots. Use: In Search and Rescue Operations, the Handcuff Knot is an invaluable tool when rescuing someone trapped, e.g., in a crevice. The two loops are placed around the wrists or the ankles. The two ends are then pulled to tighten the loops for traction. It can also be used to restrain an animal or drag an animal carcass. Tying it: As shown in the animation the initial stages are exactly the same as those used when using Loops to tie a Clove Hitch. Caution: This method of applying traction to limbs is potentially traumatic and must be used only when alternative lifting methods cannot be employed.
Hasty (Emergency) Webbing Harness The Hasty Webbing Harness is made from a length of webbing strap. It creates a temporary webbing seat for use in an emergency.
Hasty Webbing (Emergency) Harness Tying Tuck a loop of the strap into the waistband. Pass both ends back between the legs, around the thighs, through the initial loop and around the waist to use up the strap. Secure it with a Square (Reef) knot backed up with Half Hitches. Lift with a carabiner through the loop and waist turns.
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Hasty Webbing (Emergency) Harness Details Structure: The Hasty Webbing Harness enables a temporary lifting harness seat to be constructed from a piece of webbing strapping.
Technique: Approximately twenty feet of webbing strap is required. Form a loop about six inches away from the center of the webbing and tuck the loop into the waistband. This means that the final knot will be tied above one hip. For security the Square (Reef) knot must be backed up with a pair of Half Hitches either side of the Square (Reef) knot. Improvements: I am indebted to Boyd Hoyle for the following suggestions. Square knots are best avoided in safety applications. Use a Water Knot instead and still back it up with two Half Hitches either side. Also, tie it off in additional locations, e.g., round each leg and round the waist. This means that if one piece of the webbing is cut, the entire harness doesn't fail. Alternative Harness: Alternative webbing harnesses can be found online such as the Swiss Seat which employs a similar principle.
Highwayman's Hitch The Highwayman's Hitch is a quick‐release knot. Tradition has it, probably falsely, that it was used to secure a horse for a rapid departure.
Highwayman's Hitch Tying Hold an initial bight of the rope against the pole. Place a second bight behind the pole and around the initial bight. Pass a bight of the tail in front of the pole through the first bight. Tighten to secure the knot and take the load. Pull the tail to release.
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Highwayman's Hitch Details Origin: Apocryphally, robbers were said to use the Highwayman's Hitch for a quick escape on horseback and it has probably survived because of this tantalizing name. Tying it: For easy comparison with the Tumble Hitch, the animation uses the standing end to make the initial bight and then remains passive while the second bight wraps around it. It is more common to position the wrapping loop first, and then pass a bight of the standing end through it. Similar Knots: Many quick‐release hitches have been described. The Tumble and Mooring are also described here. Of the three, the Tumble Hitch is the best.
Real Danger: Quick release hitches share a major fault: entanglement of the free tail with the moving load can trigger abrupt release. A climber, frightened by a sudden slip or jerk, might grab at the adjacent line and trigger a fatal fall. Quick release knots should not be used for retrieving a climbing rope because there are recommended alternatives: 1, 2, 3, 4. Uses: It might be reasonable to use a Highwayman's Hitch to briefly tie up a kayak while getting into it. However, it makes more sense to learn and use the Tumble Hitch which is more trustworthy.
Hunter's Bend Hunter's Bend is one of a family of knots based on interlocking overhand knots. It joins two ropes of roughly the same size.
Hunter's Bend Tying Form a bight in each rope. Interlock the two bights. Pass each end over itself and over the other rope. Thread each rope across the middle under both ropes and then above itself. Pull tight to form the finished bend. The back view shows how the two ends are enclosed in the knot.
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Hunter's Bend Details Uses: The Hunter's Bend is one in a family of knots based on interlocking overhand knots. It is used to join two ropes together of roughly the same size. Dr. Edward Hunter described it in 1978. However, the knot had been described in 1975 by Phil Smith who had used it for more than thirty years on the San Francisco waterfront as the "Rigger's Bend". Rightly or wrongly it now goes by Hunter's name ‐ and it has been give the number 1425A in the revised version of Ashley's book. It can be hard to untie after being heavily loaded. Similar Knots: The Hunter's Bend is remarkably similar to several other bends including the Zeppelin, the Ashley, and the Alpine Butterfly Bend. Essentially these knots employ interlocking overhand knots with the ends threaded through or across the middle. David M. Delaney tested these bends and the Carrick Bend for their tendency to jam. He heavily loaded the knots tied in 1/16 inch braided nylon. The Ashley and the Hunter's consistently jammed tight
and would have had to be cut to release them. The Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Zeppelin, and the Carrick could all be untied easily using fingers and fingernails. Amongst the family of bends based on linked overhand knots, it would seem prudent to avoid the Ashley and the Hunter's. Tying it: The arrangement of the interlocking loops and the path of the ends through the center are critical. Similarity to other bends employing interlocking overhand knots invites confusion ‐ and mistakes. We prefer the Alpine Butterfly Bend because, uniquely, it is tied easily by wrapping the rope round the hand. Choice: The similarity to other bends employing interlocking overhand knots invites confusion ‐ and mistakes. We recommend the Zeppelin because it resists jamming and the Alpine Butterfly Bend because, uniquely, it is tied easily by wrapping the rope round the hand. The Hunter's tends to jam and offers no unique advantage to justify its use. http://www.animatedknots.com/hunters/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Icicle Hitch (Loop Method) The Icicle Hitch is an excellent slide and grip knot. Here, it is tied by passing a loop over the end of a pole. It is possibly the most secure Slide and Grip knot. This page provides a link to how to tie same knot using the end of the rope.
Icicle Hitch (Loop Method) Tying Wrap the rope around the pole four times moving away from the pole end. Leave a loop hanging and pass the end of the rope back over the pole alongside the standing end. Pass the loop behind both ends and hook it over the pole. Tighten the knot. The final load should be parallel to the pole.
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Icicle Hitch (Loop Method) Details Structure: The Icicle Hitch is almost identical to the knot described by Ashley to hoist a spar (ABOK # 1762, p 299) and to the Klemheist. The only difference is that the other knots are tied using a loop of rope. Alternatives: The Icicle Hitch can be tied by two methods. In addition to Dropping a Loop over the end of the pole, it can also be tied by Threading the End Uses: The Icicle Hitch is used when force is applied parallel to a post or pole in only one direction. In August of 2009, it was fully reviewed in Practical Sailor. They found it to be superior to other slide and grip knots including the Rolling Hitch. Advantages: The Icicle Hitch grips a smooth surface so well that it even works on a tapered surface such as a marlinespike ‐ hence its name.Pros and Cons: It is relatively easy to tie and can be used over a bar or at the end of a pole. http://www.animatedknots.com/icicle/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animat edknots.com
Improved Clinch Knot The Improved Clinch Knot is used to join fishing line to a hook or a lure, e.g., when attaching a leader to a fly.
Improved Clinch Knot Tying Pass the end of the line through the eye. Wrap it around the standing end about five complete turns. Pass the end back through the loop beside the eye. Then pass the end under the final turn. Tighten the knot and trim the end.
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Improved Clinch Knot Details Uses: The Improved Clinch knot is one of the most widely used fishing knots. It provides a good method of securing a fishing line to a hook, lure, or swivel. The "improved" version shown here includes an extra tuck under the final turn (step 9). It is commonly used to fasten the leader to the fly. Because it is harder to tie in heavier lines it is not recommended if you are using over 30 lb test line.
Tying it: Wind the loops in a neat spiral round the standing line and hold the loops under your fingers as you wind the line on. Although five or more turns are recommended, with heavier lines this may be reduced to four. Pulling the Knot Tight: When lubricated and pulled tight, the knot changes its structure. Pulling on the line forces the wrapped turns to redistribute the twists so that the inner strand becomes an outer wrap (not illustrated in the animation using rope). When tightened the tag end is actually gripped closely against the hook. Alternative: Another method of tying it is to hold the Line and Tag End in your fingers and, with the other hand, rotate the hook or lure to obtain the desired number of twists. Advantages: The Improved Clinch knot is regarded as a fisherman's reliable standby. It is particularly suited for attaching a small diameter tippet to a heavy wire hook. The extra final tuck improves your chances of holding a strong fish. http://www.animatedknots.com/improvedclinch/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=ww w.animatedknots.com
Klemheist The Klemheist is a Slide and Grip (friction) knot related to the original Prusik knot but designed to take strain in only one direction. When loaded it grips the climbing rope; with the load released it can easily be slid up or down.
Klemheist (Machard, French Prusik) Knot Tying Use a piece of cord formed into a loop. Pass the loop around the main rope. Make three complete turns, laying each turn on neatly. Pass the rest of the cord through the loop and pull it back down in the direction of the expected load.
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Klemheist (Machard, French Prusik) Knot Details History: The Klemheist is a derivative of the original Prusik knot (on left).
It appears to be identical to the knot described by Ashley for securing a loop to a vertical pole (ABOK # 1762, p 299). However, Ashley did not name this knot and did not describe the slide and grip feature. Structure: The knot requires a "Prusik Loop" which is constructed by joining the two ends of a length of rope using a Double Fisherman's or a Triple Fisherman's. Slide and Grip Knots: The Klemheist is a good example of the family of "Slide and Grip" knots. It may be the preferred choice when the load is known to be in one direction only. The Autoblock (Machard Tresse) and the Bachmann perform a similar function but both require a locking carabiner. Risk: Only pull on the Prusik Loop. Do not grip the knot itself and pull because the knot then slips. Similarly with the Bachmann: don't pull on the carabiner because this quickly releases the grip. Variations: With these knots the number of turns should be increased or decreased to suit the ropes and the conditions, i.e., before using any Slide and Grip knot, test it to see that it both grips and releases well. Rope Size: These knots must be made using a rope smaller than the load bearing rope, e.g., 5 or 6 mm cord around the climbing rope. The effectiveness of these knots diminishes as the sizes of the two ropes approach each other. http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.a nimatedknots.com
Lanyard Knot The Lanyard Knot forms a loop in the middle of a piece of rope. It looks as though two lines are passing through a separate collar. It is frequently used as a component of a knife lanyard.
Lanyard (Diamond) Knot Tying Start with a bight in the rope. In one end form a loop. Pass the other end under and around the loop to tie a Carrick Bend. Pass this end around outside the bight and up through the center of the Carrick Bend. Do the same with the other end and then tighten both ends to form the knot.
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Lanyard (Diamond) Knot Details Name: The Lanyard Knot, also known as the Diamond Knot and Friendship Knot, (ABOK # 787, p 141.) makes a fixed loop in the middle of a piece of rope.
Structure: Steps 1 to 6 of the animation show how the ends of the loop are joined together with a Carrick Bend. This pleasingly symmetrical knot forms the center of the Lanyard Knot. Each end is then wrapped around outside the loop and up through the center, away from the loop. The resulting appearance creates the strong impression that the two ropes are passing through a collar. Use: The Lanyard Knot is often used as a decorative component of a Knife Lanyard.
Lighterman's Hitch The Lighterman's Hitch is a simple robust way of securing a tow line. It can be safely released without risk of jamming.
Lighterman's (Tugboat) Hitch Tying Wrap the rope twice around the bollard. Pass a bight under the standing end and over the bollard. Wrap an extra turn around the bollard. Pass a bight under the standing end and over the bollard and continue adding more turns as needed. The Lighterman's Hitch is secure if sufficient turns are employed. However, it is commonly finished with two Half Hitches around the standing end.
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Lighterman's (Tugboat) Hitch Details Uses: The Lighterman's Hitch is unusual in its approach to taking a heavy load. No knot is tied ‐ instead the rope is passed partially round the standing end in one direction and then in the other – each time dropping a bight over the bollard. Similar Knots: The knot closest to the Lighterman's is the Tensionless – which merely consists of many turns wrapped round a suitable post, tree, or bollard. Of these two knots we prefer the Lighterman's for its neat use of alternating turns that reduce rotational stress on the post. The Tensionless might have an advantage if the load approaches the breaking strain but only if the turns are passed around a large diameter bollard and the tail is secured away from the standing end to avoid the kink caused by securing the Tensionless to it. Tying it: The version shown here starts with two initial turns (often called "a Round Turn"). This provides a reliable way of taking the initial strain and is often enough to control a load while the hitch is completed. For larger loads an extra initial turn can be used. Advantages: The beauty of the Lighterman's Hitch lies in its simplicity and the ease with which it can be safely untied and eased out. As each turn is removed, the tail can be eased to determine whether the load is threatening to cause the remaining turns to slip. http://www.animatedknots.com/lightermans/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Long Bury 12Strand Rope Splice How to mark, taper, and thread the end for a Long Bury Splice.
Long Bury Splicing For tapering mark 6 strands, choosing alternate pairs. Pull these six strands out of the rope and cut them off close to the rope. Pass the splicing tool up the hollow core of the rope. Tuck the tapered tail into the tool and pull it through the rope. Smooth out the rope to bury the end.
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Long Bury Splicing Details Warning: in practice use a much longer tail and a more gradual taper – see below. The short lengths were used here just for photography. Nomenclature: Some authors refer to this as a Brummel ‐ a Brummel without a lock. We prefer to reserve the name Brummel for the Locked Splice and use Long Bury Splice to describe this splice. In fact both the Brummel and the Long Bury have a critical feature in common: they both derive their strength from the long buried tail. Long Bury technique: The animation shows how to tie a Splice using the Long Bury technique – with no "Lock". When tested to destruction, the Long Bury splice should not be a weak point – the standing end of the rope may break first. The strength of the splice relies on the long tail being gripped by the standing end; the strain is progressively transferred from the standing end to the two lines of the eye. Material: This splicing technique is particularly suitable for un‐sheathed, high modulus, loosely woven, 8, 12, 16, 20, or 24‐strand, single braid ropes. These ropes include: High‐Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE), e.g., Spectra, Dyneema or Amsteel; Liquid Crystal Aromatic Polyester (LCAP), e.g., Vectran; or Aramid fibers, e.g., Kevlar, Nomex, Technora, or Twaron. The loose weave results in the angle of the fibers being nearly parallel to the axis with minimal kinking. The ropes have impressive strengths but they also have impressive drawbacks: knots or kinks can reduce the breaking strain of some materials to a mere 30%. The splicing technique described here imposes almost no kinking or compression on the rope's fibers and breaking strains in the 90 ‐ 100% range are to be expected. Requirements: At first glance this seems to be a simple way of making an eye splice – just thread the end up the middle. However, several requirements must be met to achieve both reliability and strength:
Length of bury: Both Brion Toss and McCarthy and Starzinger recommend that the length of the buried tail should be 72 times the rope's diameter. This is about three and a half full fid lengths (a full length fid is 21 times the rope's diameter.) The very slippery Spectra and Dyneema require this long bury. However, for Polyester, about half this length is sufficient. Taper: A tail with no taper creates a weak point because the square end of the buried tail abruptly changes the angle of the rope's fibers. The animation shows a short taper with the marks placed on alternate strands, In practice a much more gradual taper is made by marking every fifth pair or, for a 20 strand hollow braid, alternate fifth and sixth pairs. This long taper means that the load is progressively transferred to the tail accompanied by a gradual change in the angle of the fibers in the standing end. As the fiber angle becomes less favorable, some of the load has already been transferred from the outer braid to the inner.
Stitching: For a critical breaking strain, stitching adds nothing. However, the critical load is only encountered occasionally. In the interim, movement, shaking, and inquisitive fingers, may displace the tail – even pulling it completely out of the rope – wrecking the ability of the splice to withstand a maximum load. The recommended stitching is a serpentine zigzag right through the rope and buried tail. This stitching is made up in one direction followed by a similar return pattern back down with the rope rotated 90 degrees. The two ends of the stitching are then tied together, pulled into the splice, and trimmed. Locking: The Locked Brummel provides stability, just like the stitching. However, it adds no strength. How could it? The Long Bury technique achieves about 100% of the breaking strain. Nevertheless, many riggers, climbers, and arborists, routinely use the Locked version. It is a quick and reliable way to lock the splice together in the right position. Whipping: For the greatest security, the splice should be whipped at the throat – the point where the two ropes exit from the splice to form the eye.
Shortening: The long buried tail expands the rope and shortens it. There is no reliable formula for predicting the result because the settings used in the manufacturing process vary the tightness/looseness of the hollow braid construction. The following technique works when preparing rigging for a mast. Before making the first splice, make a mark well away from the end, e.g., 15 feet. Then measure the lengths to be used for the eye and the tail and make the splice. Measure how much the splice has shortened the end of the rope. Apply enough load to "reset" the braid the way it will lay in use. Measure again. Use this information to calculate the length of rope required and try to make an identical splice on the other end.
Masthead Knot Mat The Masthead Knot, or Jury Mast Knot, enables stays to be tied to the top of a temporary mast. However, when the rope is passed around a second time it makes a pleasing small mat.
Masthead Knot Mat Tying Form three similar loops. Weave the two outer loops across the center using a strict over and under sequence. Thread the end under and over across the middle to lock the structure. Using the same end (for photography two ropes are used) follow the same path around a second time. Tuck in the end and secure it.
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Masthead Knot Mat Details Uses: The Masthead Knot (ABOK # 1167, p 212) is described as being useful when rigging stays to the head of a temporary jury mast. Maybe! Many authorities certainly described this. However, Ashley emphasizes how prone this knot would be to slip. If I ever had to rig a jury mast I think I would try Rolling Hitches. I would love to hear from someone who has had the experience of having to rig a Jury Mast. Answer Received: I finally received my answer (Dec 2011). Contributor Larry Perkins described using the Masthead Knot with his father to set Poles for various construction projects. For this purpose the two ends were securely joined to make a fourth loop and guy lines were threaded through each loop to provide a two to one purchase for each guy. They modified the knot using two additional turns woven around the bases of the links. Perkins reported that on rough cut timber their knot held well. With such evidence this knot could be located in the scouting or boating sections. However, because it is more commonly used for decoration, it remains here. Easy to Make: The Masthead Knot is described here because it is delightfully easy to make – the initial pattern can be made more quickly than almost any other mat. However, it lacks the radial symmetry of other patterns and is probably tied more often for its convenience than for its perfection.
Additional Turns: The animation employs two colors to show up the structure and there is space left between the turns. In practice, a single longer piece of cord is used and, for a more pleasing appearance, one or more additional turns are added using the same technique. The entire mat is then tightened to eliminate space between the turns. Finishing the Mat: The two ends can be secured in one of several ways. When the mat is purely decorative, and the material is one that melts, the two ends can be heated in a flame and fused together. However, to do this an end has to be passed across other turns. The mat then has a thicker section and is less suitable as a table mat. Another way to finish the mat is to attach each end to the neighboring turn using needle and thread, glue, or twine and constrictor knots. Whichever method is chosen, the junction should be concealed under another turn as demonstrated in the animation.
Monkey's Fist The Monkey's Fist makes a neat ball on the end of a rope. It is decorative and fun to make. It is also sometimes used on the end of a heaving line. However, this can be hazardous if you are on the receiving end.
Monkey's Fist Tying Wrap three turns around your fingers (metal here). Pass the end through the middle. Make three more turns around the first ones. Pass the end through the middle. Make three more turns locking the previous turns and remove fingers. Tie a knot in the end and tuck it into the center. Then tighten every turn.
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Monkey's Fist Details Uses: The Monkey's Fist (ABOK # 2200 ‐ 3, p 354) is used both as a decorative knot and to weight the end of a heaving line (see caution below). Tying it: The Monkey's Fist is usually tied around separated fingers. For the demonstration, a U‐shaped piece of metal strip was used instead and three turns of rope were used in each direction. After each set of complete turns, change direction by passing the end through the middle. For each direction count carefully: it is very easy to miscount and have more strands on one side than the other. Finishing it: The animation shows an overhand knot being inserted into the center. This makes a slightly fuller knot. After the overhand knot is in place the whole knot is tightened starting near the buried overhand knot and finishing with the other end of the rope. Alternative Finish: Ashley describes a version (left) where both ends remain outside the fist and are spliced together so that the Fist is part of an eye splice. The other end is then terminated in another eye splice. This allows the weighted Monkey's Fist to be
attached to any heaving line just by interlocking the second eye splice into the heaving line's eye splice. Splitting the Coil: Before throwing a heaving line, split the coil into two parts (picture on right). Throw the smaller half as a neat coil so that it carries the distance. The rope pays out partly from the coil you throw and partly from the coil in your hand. In the picture below, AB Freddie Paz is standing on the upper level of the Foredeck ready to throw the line. Danger with Weights: The Monkey's Fist is commonly described as being tied around a small weight to make the heaving line easier to throw a long way. In the picture above left, the crew had tied it around a small rubber ball. Heavier weights can be a danger. Dock hands have been known to cut heavily weighted Monkey's Fists off the end of heaving lines ‐ and I sympathize with them. (Grog's father, E.B. Grogono, served as a ship's doctor on a submarine depot ship in World War II. He watched professional dock hands cut off Monkey's Fists and his account remains in my mind). Imagine looking up against a bright sky to and catch a rope coil and being hit instead by a heavy missile. http://www.animatedknots.com/monkeysfist/index.php?Categ=decorative&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=w ww.animatedknots.com
Mooring Hitch Thie Mooring Hitch is is a quick‐release knot for temporarily securing a boat to a post or ring.
Mooring Hitch Tying Pass the rope behind and over the pole. With the tail, form a loop so that the tail touches the standing end. Pass a bight of the tail ocross the loop and under the standing end and tighten to take the load. Pull the tail to release.
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Release Quick Release Hitches: Tumble, Highwayman's, Mooring
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Mooring Hitch Details Name: Ashley associates the name "Mooring Hitch" with the Rolling Hitch (ABOK # 1791, p 304). He points out that when snug it will not slip down the post.
Tying it: The animations shows the locking bight passing sideways under the standing end. To make it easier to tie, many descriptions show a bight of the standing end being lifted up first to make this easier. Similar Knots: Many quick‐release hitches have been described. The Tumble and Highwayman's are also described here. Of the three, the Tumble Hitch is the best. Real Danger: Quick release hitches share a major fault: entanglement of the free tail with the moving load can trigger abrupt release. A climber, frightened by a sudden slip or jerk, might grab at the adjacent line and trigger a fatal fall. Quick release knots should not be used for retrieving a climbing rope because there are recommended alternatives: 1, 2, 3, 4. Not for Mooring: This so‐called Mooring Hitch has been described as being tied loosely around a pole so that the loop can rise and fall with the tide. Even discounting the risk of the loop catching on oysters, barnacles, bolts, and beams, such use must be condemned because it implies protracted use of a knot that cannot be trusted and is also prone to jam. Uses: It might be reasonable to use a Mooring Hitch to briefly tie up a kayak while getting into it. However, it makes more sense to learn and use the Tumble Hitch which is more trustworthy.
Munter Mule Combination The Munter Mule Combination provides the Munter hitch for controlled rappelling (abseiling) with the Mule addition to belay the Munter when required. The only equipment required is a locking carabiner.
Munter Mule Combination Hitch Tying Pass the rope into the carabiner. Twist the rope above into a loop and hook it onto the carabiner to take the load. Create two loops and then, around the climbing rope, tie a slip knot leaving a long loop. Use it to tie a Half Hitch to secure the knot.The load is on the climbing rope. This is how the Munter is used for descent. When pulled the knot is inverted through the caribiner. Now the hitch is inverted and able to take in slack during ascent.
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Munter Mule Combination Hitch Details The Munter: The Munter Hitch ‐ (the Italian Hitch), 1 ‐ 6 in the animation, allows controlled descent when rappelling (abseiling). The climbing rope passes through a locking carabiner, round the rope, and back through the carabiner. For controlled descent, the brake hand need only apply relatively little force on the free end. The Mule: The Mule Hitch, 7 ‐ 11 in the animation, is used to secure the Munter. Using a bight of the rope a Slip Knot followed by a Half Hitch is tied around the standing end. This final Half Hitch is essential because the weight of the hanging rope might otherwise easily undo the Slip Knot. When loaded, the Mule knot tends to slide down tight against the Munter and can be somewhat difficult to undo. Requirements: Use a carabiner large enough to allow the hitch to be inverted through the carabiner when pulled. The load end should pass first round the spine side (not the opening side) of the carabiner. Then during descent, the rope will not chafe against the lock with the risk of opening it. Using Thin Rope: In an emergency, modern, high strength, thin rope can be used for the Munter. Additional turns should then be taken round the spine of the carabiner to reduce the strain (see picture on left). These extra turns are not necessary with 11mm climbing rope. Advantages: The greatest advantage of the Munter is that it can be used with minimum equipment – just a locking carabiner. Disadvantages: The Munter kinks the rope, imparts a twist to it during descent, and also makes the rope fuzzy if used often. Alternatives for Tying‐Off: These two pictures compare two of the alternative methods for tying‐off the Munter: Two Half Hitches (Left) and the Overhand Knot (Right). The animation used the mule with a half half but the Overhand Knot is more common. Some climbers use three half hitches in preference to two. http://www.animatedknots.com/muntermule/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=ww w.animatedknots.com
Nail Knot The Nail Knot is used to join two fishing lines of different diameter. It is used to join a leader, or tippet, to the fly line.
Nail Knot Tying Overlap the two lines. Holding the straw and the lines together, wrap the lighter line (blue) around the straw and both lines. Make six complete turns, pass the line through the straw and tighten the knot neatly around the straw. Withdraw the straw. Lubricate, pull the knot tight, and trim the ends.
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Nail Knot Details Uses: The Nail Knot was originally named because a nail was inserted as a guide when threading the line. Today, it is easier to use a small straw if you can. The Nail Knot is an important fishing knot used to join two lines of different diameters and allows for line diameters to diminish down to the fly, i.e., it is useful for attaching your backing to the fly line, and your fly line to the leader, or tippet. Tying it: There are several ways of tying this knot. The animation above shows the smaller line being threaded through the loops using a straw. Alternative: Alternatively, the line can be threaded beside a nail (hence its name) or pulled through with a needle. Advantages: The Nail Knot makes a smooth compact knot that will readily pass through the guides. http://www.animatedknots.com/nailknot/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
NonSlip Mono Knot The Non‐Slip Mono Knot forms a fixed loop and retains a very high proportion of the line's rated breaking strain.
NonSlip Mono Knot Tying Tie a loose overhand knot and pass the tag end through the eye, then back through the overhand knot. Wrap the tag end around the standing end about five times and back through the overhand knot. Lubricate, tighten, and trim the end.
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NonSlip Mono Knot Details Origin: The Non‐Slip Mono Knot is a higher strength version of the original Homer Rhodes Loop Knot where the tag end was only hitched once around the standing line. Various other names have been given to the knot, e.g., Lefty Kreh's Loop Knot. Purpose: The Non‐Slip Mono makes a very strong fixed loop in the end of the line. Because the loop doesn't grip the lure, it makes a flexible attachment and allows a more natural action. Transformation: The Non‐Slip Mono undergoes a transformation as it is tightened. The outer short‐end wrapping turns become internal and vice versa. Number of Turns: The recommended number of turns depends on the line strength shown in the table: Tying it: The size of the loop must be adjusted while the turns are still loose. Once tightened the size of the loop is fixed. Advantages: The Non‐Slip Mono is fairly easy to tie and is claimed to retain most of the line's rated strength. Line 6 ‐ 8 lb test 8 ‐ 12 lb test 15 ‐ 40 lb test 50 ‐ 60 lb test 60 lb plus test
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Noose Knot The Noose creates a loop in the end of a rope which tightens when pulled. This page also provides a link to the Slip Knot to help compare these two similar knots. Noose Knot Tying Form a loop in the end of the rope. Tuck a bight of the standing end through the loop. Make the bight larger and pass it around the object. Pull on the standing end to tighten the noose.
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Compare: Noose, Slip Knot
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Noose Knot Details Uses: The simple Noose (ABOK # 1114, p 204.) is identical in structure to the Slip Knot except that the bight to be inserted is formed from the long end – and not the short one. It has been used as a snare to catch small animals. It is not the Hangman's Knot. It is a frequently tied knot ‐ being used in the Arbor Knot and in knitting as the first loop when casting on – where it is frequently tied as a Noose and called a Slip Knot. It has many other uses including gaining initial control of the string when tying up a package.
The Hangman's Knot is related to the simple Noose except that many turns are wrapped around the loop. Its supposed advantage for hanging was humanitarian: appropriate use was intended to result in a broken neck ‐ causing a rapid death. It is deliberately not illustrated here (see below). "Noose" Name Confusion: It is unfortunate that "noose" is used in a number of ways: 1. The knot described on this page; 2. A descriptive term for loop knots that tighten under load; and, 3. Sometimes applied to the Hangman's Knot. To make it worse the Duncan and the Hangman's Knot are often wrongly regarded as the same. It would simplify life to use "Noose" for this knot and use the proper names, e.g., "Running Bowline" or "Duncan", etc., for other noose‐ like knots. Tying it: The technique used in the animation tucks a bight of the long end through a loop. The same result can be obtained almost as easily by passing the end round the object and using the short end to tie a Half Hitch around the long end. Tied this way it is the first part of one version of the Butcher's Knot used to secure meat for roasting ‐ where again, just as in knitting, it is often misnamed a "Slip Knot". Danger: The Noose knot is not a Hangman's Knot but it can also be deadly. It should never be tight round someone's neck. The knot can bind and critically restrict blood flow. Several Questions on Snopes ask whether it is illegal to describe the Hangman's Knot. It isn't. Legislation: However, Louisiana House Bill 726 and New York Article 240.31 both prohibit the display of a Noose because of its use as a means of intimidation. The Louisiana Bill specifies the Hangman's Noose. The New York State Article uses the generic "noose". http://www.animatedknots.com/noose/index.php?Categ=basics&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animat edknots.com
Ocean Plait Mat A pleasing rope mat created started with a simple overhand knot.
Ocean Plait Mat Tying Tie an Overhand knot with long loops. Twist each loop and cross them over each other. Thread the short end across the knot and thread the long end to lock the pattern. With the long end follow the pattern around. Repeat with a third, and a fourth, turn. Cut the ends and stitch them under the mat.
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Ocean Plait Mat Details Origin: The Ocean Plait Mat (ABOK # 3490) is a member of a large family of symmetrical mats made by weaving the ends. Each mat starts with an Overhand knot and can be lengthened merely be using longer loops and crossing them over each other again. Additional Turns: Four complete turns are shown in the animation. The tightness of the original knot determines the number of additional turns that can be added. The entire mat is finally tightened to eliminate any remaining space between the turns. Uses: Small Ocean Plait Knot mats make excellent tablemats and hot pads. Larger ones make excellent doormats or treads for stairs. Ashley provides a huge selection of designs, some of which are very elaborate with many crossings. Finishing the Mat: The two ends can be secured in one of several ways. When the mat is purely decorative, and the material is one that melts, the two ends can be heated in a flame and fused together. However, to do this an end has to be passed across other turns. The mat then has a thicker section and is less suitable as a tablemat. Another way to finish the mat is to attach each end to its neighboring turn using glue, twine, constrictor knots, or stitching. Whichever method is chosen, the junction should be concealed under another turn as shown in the animation.
OneHanded Bowline The One‐Handed Bowline is tied with one hand. It is identical to a normal bowline but useful if the other hand is occupied ‐ or injured.
OneHanded Bowline Tying With the rope round your back, hold about half a meter of the short end in your hand. Hook the standing end with your thumb to form a loop around your hand. Pass the short end round the standing end and pull it back through the loop. Secure the end with an overhand knot to the loop.
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OneHanded Bowline Details Uses: The One‐Handed Bowline (ABOK # 1010, p 186.) is a quick, useful way to tie a bowline when the other hand is occupied or injured. There are three main steps:
1. Hold the short end and create a loop around your hand. 2. Pass the short end round the standing end. 3. Still holding the short end, withdraw your hand from the loop. The animation illustrates the climber's viewpoint with the rope passed round his/her back. Because a bowline can shake loose, it is completed with a final overhand knot tied to the loop of the bowline. Caution: a sudden strain while tying this knot could trap your wrist. For this reason, it is safer to form the loop around your hand rather than risk the whole wrist. Alternative Stopper Knots for the Bowline: to see more details about the bowline as well as other methods of securing it, see the Bowline Page.
Orvis Knot The Orvis Knot is an excellent, simple knot for attaching fishing line to a hook.
Orvis Knot Tying Pass the line through the eye of the hook. Pass the tag end around the line, back through the first loop and then back through the second loop. Pass the tag end through the second loop again. Lubricate, tighten, and trim the tag end.
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Orvis Knot Details Uses: The Orvis Knot was invented by Larry Becker who submitted it in a contest held by the Orvis Company to find the best knot to attach a line to the hook. Similar Knots: The Orvis performs a similar function as other line‐to‐hook knots such as the Trilene, Palomar, Duncan, and Clinch knots. Tying it: It is helpful to picture a symmetrical stepladder pattern. Until the final extra twist through the same loop, each step is like the one before. Advantages: The Orvis knot is strong, small, light, reliable, and easily to remember and tie. It also works well in light and heavy lines and in any tippet material. Disadvantages: As it is being tightened, the Orvis knot tends to set up at an angle.
Breaking Strain: It is claimed to retain most of the line's original breaking strain. http://www.animatedknots.com/orvis/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animate dknots.com
Overhand Knot The Overhand Knot is the simplest of knots. It makes a knot in the end of a rope which can prevent fraying and can act as a simple stopper knot. Overhand Knot Tying Form a loop and pass the end through it. Tighten it to form the Overhand Knot. When pulled tight it can function as a simple stopper knot.
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Overhand Knot Tying Details Uses: The Overhand Knot was described by Ashley (ABOK # 46, p 14) as "the simplest of the Single‐Strand Stopper Knots." It can also be used to prevent the end of a piece of rope unraveling. Comparison: The animation shows the close similarity between:
The Overhand Knot – tied in the end of a rope; The Half Hitch – attaches a rope to something, e.g., a Hitching Post; The Half Knot – a binding knot – first part of a Square (Reef) Knot.
Double Overhand: The first turn is often followed by a second ‐ to create the larger stopper knot, the Double Overhand. Recommendations: As a stopper the Overhand Knot has one advantage: it is one of the few stopper knots that can be tied tightly up against an object or a knot. Although the Double Overhand makes a good stopper "Knot", when an even larger stopper knot is required, the Ashley Stopper Knot is preferred.
http://www.animatedknots.com/overhand/index.php?Categ=basics&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Palomar Knot The Palomar Knot is used to attach a fish hook to a line. A loop is passed through the eye, an overhand knot is tied with the loop which is then passed over the hook.
Palomar Knot Tying Form a bight in the end of the line. Pass the bight through the eye of the hook. With the bight, tie an overhand knot. Pass the bight over the hook and down around the knot. Lubricate and pull the standing and tag ends to tighten the knot. Trim the tag end.
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Palomar Knot Details Uses: The Palomar Knot is a simple knot for attaching a line to a hook, or a fly to a leader or tippet. It is regarded as one of the strongest and most reliable fishing knots. Tying it: After the loop is passed through the eye, an overhand knot is tied with the loop. The loop is then passed over the hook and tightened around the bight below the eye. The effect is that this leaves the hook free to rotate in the knot. Alternative: Some descriptions show the final loop positioned against the shaft of the hook rather than pulled further down around the bight. This limits the hook's movement and the majority of experienced fishermen recommend the technique illustrated here. Advantages: It is recommended for use with braided lines. With a little practice the Palomar is a knot that can be tied in the dark. Disadvantages: When tying this knot, the fly or hook has to pass through the loop, which can be awkward and necessitates making the loop large enough. http://www.animatedknots.com/palomar/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Perfection Loop The Perfection Loop creates a small loop which is in line with the standing part of the leader or tippet.
Perfection Loop Tying Form a loop in the end of the line. Form a second loop and lay it on top of the first with the tag end under the standing end. Pass the tag end between the two loops. Pull the top loop through the bottom loop. Lubricate and tighten by pulling on the standing end and the new loop. Trim the end.
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Perfection Loop Details
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Uses: The Perfection Loop is the easiest way to make a small loop in the end of a leader or tippet that will lie perfectly in line with the standing end. It is commonly used to join a Perfection Loop in the end of a fly line to a Perfection loop in a Leader using a "Loop to Loop" connection.
Tying it: This knot is most easily tied in the hand. Hold the first loop between finger and thumb. Wrap the second turn round the finger and thumb and then between the two loops. Tuck the second turn through the first, checking that the loop crosses and traps the end. Alternative: It can also be tied through a fly or lure by passing the free end along the path shown in Frame 7 above. Advantages: The Perfection loop creates a stable loop that lines up neatly with the standing end. Using a "Loop to Loop" connection the Perfection Knot allows for quick and convenient leader changes. http://www.animatedknots.com/perfection/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Poacher's Knot The Poacher's Knot makes a very secure loop in the end of a piece of rope and is useful with modern high modulus ropes.
Poacher's Knot Tying Form a bight in the end of the rope. Loosely wrap the end around the bight twice. Tuck the end through these turns to complete the knot. Pull tight.
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Poacher's Knot Details History: The Poacher's Knot (ABOK # 409, p 65.) is described by Ashley as made of horsehair and used to trap Woodcock or Partridge. It is hard to imagine using either the material or the technique today. It is also known as the Strangle Snare and Double Overhand Noose. Tying it: The technique used in the animation creates a Double Overhand Knot around the standing end. A common mistake when learning is failing to complete the second turn, making only a single Overhand knot which is not secure. High Modulus Ropes: The Poacher's Knot is one of the few knots suitable for use with new ropes such as Dyneema and Spectra. Bowlines and other familiar loop knots may not be secure with these slippery high modulus ropes and may pull undone, e.g., at loads as low as 15 ‐ 20% of the rope's breaking strain. Stronger Alternative: Ashley also describes the Scaffold Knot (ABOK # 1120, p 204) which is a similar knot with an extra turn, sometimes called a Triple Overhand Noose. Occasionally, people refer to the Poacher's as a Double, or Two‐Turn, Scaffold.
Prusik Knot or Triple Sliding Hitch The Prusik is a symmetrical Slide and Grip (friction) knot. The same number of turns lie above and below the loop. Load can be taken in either direction.
Prusik Knot (Triple Sliding Hitch) Tying Use a piece of cord formed into a loop. Pass the knot around the rope three times inside the loop. Make sure the turns lie neatly beside each other and pull the knot tight.
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Prusik Knot (Triple Sliding Hitch) Details History: The Prusik knot was developed in 1931 by Dr.Karl Prusik (sometime president of the Austrian Mountaineering Club and often misspelled "Prussik".) It appears to be identical in structure to a knot described by Ashley for hoisting a spar. (ABOK # 1763, p 300), but Ashley did not name this knot and did not describe the slide and grip feature. Structure: The knot requires a "Prusik Loop" which is constructed by joining the two ends of a length of rope using a Double Fisherman's or a Triple Fisherman's. Uses: Its principal use is allowing a rope to be climbed. Two Prusik loops are alternately slid up the static rope: a long
Prusik loop allows the climber to lift himself using leg power, and a second short Prusik loop is attached to the harness. In rescue work, if a climber has to be pulled up, a Prusik loop can hold a pulley block purchase system on a climbing rope. Slide and Grip Knots: Because the Prusik is a symmetrical slide and grip knot, it is useful if a load might need to be applied in either direction. For loads which are always applied in the same direction other knots are preferred such as the Klemheist or the Bachmann (see picture on left) http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Rapala Knot The Rapala Knot provides an excellent connection between line and lure. It allows for a natural action as the loop does not grip the eye.
Rapala Knot Tying Form an overhand knot in the line. Pass the tag end through the eye and back through the overhand knot. Wrap the end three times around the standing end. Pass the end back through the overhand knot and then through the loop just formed. Lubricate and tighten the knot. Trim the end.
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Rapala Knot Details Uses: The Rapala Knot is a non‐slip loop knot usually tied directly to the lure. The Rapala brothers recommended it for use with their Rapala lures as providing a loop that allowed the lures to move freely and naturally. If a swivel or leader is essential, it is best to choose the lightest tackle possible to allow the lure to move with a natural motion. Tying it: A long enough loop should be left to ensure that the lure is not gripped. Advantages: The advantage claimed for this knot is that it allows the lure to move naturally. It is also claimed to retain most of the line strength ‐ and this might be expected as the structure of the knot passes the force to the loop via a wrap in the center.
Rat Tail Stopper The Rat Tail Stopper is a friction hitch which takes the load on a Mooring Line while it is transferred to the Bitts.
RatTail Stopper Tying The Rat‐Tail Stopper takes the load when the line is taken off the winch. The line is then passed around the First Bitt, followed by several figure 8 turns round both Bitts. Finally a complete turn is taken around the Second Bitt.
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RatTail Stopper Details Controlling a Mooring Line: This page describes a Mooring Line Stopper knot that temporarily takes the load while a Mooring Line is transferred from the Winch to the Bitts. The knot described here is the double‐ended version. The center of the stopper line is secured to the Bitts – often an eye at the base of the Bitts. The stopper knot itself commences with a Half Knot tied around the mooring line before starting the double spiral. Demonstration Only: Because a foredeck during mooring procedures is no place for casual photography, these photographs were taken while at sea. We waited until the ship had left the Atlantic swells and was travelling east in the calmer waters of the Mediterranean and when the morning sunlight brightly illuminated the port side foredeck. The Mooring Line was led first from the Hawse Hole to the Winch and then to the Bitts. For safety and for convenience the line was not under tension. Name of the Knot: On the working deck, the abbreviated name "Stopper" is commonly used. In technical publications several names are used including: Mooring Line Stopper; Rat‐Tailed Stopper; Rat Tail Stopper; and Rattail Stopper. Rat‐Tail Stopper has been chosen here. Winches: There will usually be multiple winches. This allows some lines to remain permanently on their own winch. However, many lines have to be first tightened with a shared winch and then transferred to a set of Bitts to free up the winch to tighten the next line. In this picture taken of the Insignia's Forward Mooring Station (left), the forward winch already has two lines on it, the starboard winch has two lines on it, and the port winch is partially hidden by the ship's structure.
Size and Force: The size of the Mooring Line will vary with the vessel's size. However, on Cruise Ships the diameter will typically be 2.5 ‐ 3 inches (64 ‐ 75 mm) or more with a breaking strain of thirty to forty tons. When tight, the force in the mooring line will be many thousands of pounds. Material: Today, mooring lines are commonly made of HMPE, which floats so that there is a reduced risk of fouling a propeller. They are also much less elastic than nylon, which reduces the "snapback" risks on the shore and on the mooring station: when a loaded nylon hawser breaks, there is sufficient energy contained in the recoiling ends to maim or kill. Even with HMPE significant risks remain. Rat‐Tail Options: A single tailed stopper can be used for lighter loads. Using a single line, a couple of Half Hitches are tied around the line, followed by a length of spiral wrapping. However, the double stopper technique illustrated here would appear to be stronger, more reliable, and less likely to twist the Mooring Line. Mooring: Large ships are usually moored alongside a dock using multiple lines. All the lines run from the two work decks, one aft and one forward. Typically, four lines are run from each location. All Eight Lines are usually "Doubled Up" so that Two Lines share each task. Dipping the Loop: When a line is Doubled Up, the two lines usually share the same Bollard. In addition, when two ships are moored close to each other, lines from the two ships may share a Bollard. When this occurs, Dipping the Loop allows either line to be removed first. To Dip the Loop, the second rope's eye splice is passed from beneath, up through the first rope's eye splice, and then over the Bollard. This technique allows the first rope to be lifted off first if necessary. Without this precaution, the first rope's eye can be lifted off but can only slide up and down the second mooring line. Safety: Safety is taken very seriously. Injuries are not uncommon. Standing near a line, or worse standing on a line or in a bight of line, which is being tightened or released can lead to major injuries or death. A well equipped Mooring Station often provides a safety cage around the winch operator to provide some protection from recoiling rope ends ‐ see Right Side of Frames 1 ‐ 4.
Rolling (Taut Line) Hitch The Rolling Hitch secures a rope to another parallel rope. It is one of the few knots which can be tied and untied while there is a load and can be adjusted without it being untied. It can take the load while a rope is transferred or secured elsewhere.
Rolling Hitch Tying Pass the end around the main (red) rope to make a Half Hitch. Continue around going over the first turn. Tuck the rope between the standing end and the first turn. Tighten to make it secure (this introduces a slight dog‐leg in the main rope). Continue around to add a final Half Hitch.
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Rolling Hitch and Taut Line Hitch Details Description: The Rolling Hitch Ashley Version 2 (ABOK # 1735, p 298) attaches a rope (usually smaller) to another (usually larger) when the line of pull is almost parallel. To attach a rope to a pole see Ashley Version 1 below. Critical Details: The animation correctly shows that the blue rope is parallel to the red. The "pull" MUST be in line with the main rope (or the pole). If the tension is away from the standing rope or pole, this knot is likely to fail. The value of 'tucking in' turn two above the first turn can be shown by tying the knot with and without this tuck. As soon as the 'tuck' is made the knot is stable as an "Awning Hitch" (picture on left, ABOK # 1798, p 304). Without this tucked turn, the first part of the knot has no 'structure' and the first two turns just slide along. Moreover, the tucked turn forces a slight dog‐leg in the main rope which contributes to the secure grip. Rope to Pole: However, to secure a rope to a parallel pole (right), use Ashley's Version 1 (ABOK # 1734, p 298). There is no "tucked second turn". Both of the first two turns are just wound on tightly beside each other. Version 1 is less secure on rope. Midshipman's, Taut‐Line, and Rolling Hitches: A Midshipman's Hitch is created when a rope goes around an object and tied back to itself with a Rolling Hitch Version 2 – the version better for rope. This became known as a Taut‐Line Hitch and was taught this way in early versions of the Boy Scouts of America Handbooks. Unfortunately, a change was made and Version 1 was substituted – the version better for a pole. So we now have a "Taut‐Line" Hitch employing the wrong version of the Rolling Hitch, the one better suited for a pole, not a rope. Rolling Hitch vs. Magnus Hitch: A Magnus (ABOK # 1736, p 298) is created when the final Half Hitch around the standing end is tied in the opposite direction. It is harder to snug up but is said to cause less twisting. Recent Research: In August of 2009 Practical Sailor reported on their testing of slide and grip knots. Their analysis concluded: "... On more modern line, which tends to be much more slippery, the rolling hitch often slips under load. It may also fail to hold on wire or stainless‐steel tubing...." After testing various knots, they recommended the Icicle Hitch as offering the best performance as a Slide and Grip Knot. Uses: The Rolling Hitch is useful to take the strain off a rope with a foul turn on a winch. It can also make an adjustable loop in the end of a rope to act as a spring line to a dock. It can be used to relieve the strain on a hawser while the "Bitter End" is transferred to the "Bitts" (picture on Right) but the Rat‐Tail Stopper is better. Tying it back to itself forms an adjustable loop (Midshipman's Hitch) with many uses, e.g., on small sailing boats it is successfully used as a boom‐vang and, at home, it makes an adjustable Clothesline Hitch. Under Load: The Rolling Hitch is one of the few knots which can be tied and untied with load on. It does not bind and, when tied correctly, does not slip. However, in critical applications some authorities recommend using the tail end to tie a second Rolling Hitch to back up the first. Safety Belt Hitch (Left): Ashley also describes a Safety‐Belt Hitch used by Steeplejacks (ABOK # 452, p 74), where three turns, not "tucked up", are used in the first part of the knot before the final Half Hitch is placed. Overboard: The Rolling Hitch has been promoted as the only knot to tie in the following unlikely but critical circumstance: while sailing alone you fall overboard and catch hold of the line which you have prudently left trailing astern and find yourself hanging on with difficulty. Before you tire, you
manage to bring the bitter end of the rope around your back. You then have to tie a suitable knot to make a loop around you. A bowline cannot be tied under load. Two Half Hitches will slide and constrict you. The Rolling Hitch is the answer. Even as the second turn is tucked "up" into the correct place, the major strain is taken and the final Half Hitch can be tied with less urgency. Variation Using a Bight: When there is a long tail end, the Rolling Hitch can be tied using a bight (loop) instead of the end. This is particularly useful when the Rolling Hitch is being used as a Spring Line. However, attention to detail is essential. The first part of the knot is tied using one strand of the loop. The other strand is kept out of the way but the bitter end is NOT pulled through. Once the first part of the knot is secure and, as usual, will take the strain, the bight can be used to tie one or more Half Hitches. http://www.animatedknots.com/rollinghitch/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Rope Care/Cleaning Cleaning, washing, and care of ropes ‐ particularly those used for climbing.
Care and Cleaning of Rope Rope is all to often left in a tangle on the ground which is far from the safest way to store it and usually makes it hard to use. Rope should be kept neatly coiled, off the ground, and stored appropriately so that it can be used free of tangles without delay.
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Care and Cleaning of Rope Details Safety: The life of a climbing rope depends greatly on use and damage and, to a lesser extent, on care, cleaning, and storage. Cleaning: Climbing ropes should be washed occasionally by hand in cold water with a mild soap, rinsed free of the soap, and then spread out or hung up to dry in the air. Avoid direct sunlight, do not use a dryer, and do not place the rope above a heat source. Care: Keep your rope off the ground to protect it from dirt that contains sharp small chips and crystals. Avoid contact with chemicals, acids, alkalis, bleach, oxidizing agents (present in concrete), and embers, sparks or other sources of ignition, e.g., smokers. Avoid treading on your rope as this may work sharp particles into the core. Use climbing rope only for climbing ‐ not for towing a vehicle. Storage: Climbing rope should be stored, preferably after drying, at room temperature, ideally in a storage bag. Life Expectancy: Manufacturers recommend a retirement schedules which errs on the side of caution and also, presumably, on the side of profit! How long you decide to use the rope depends on your own inspection, knowledge of the rope's history, and assessment. If a rope has not suffered a major fall, i.e., approaching factor 2 (a fall double the rope distance from the belay); if the sheath shows no significant wear or damage; and if the rope has not been exposed to damage from chemicals: it is almost certainly safe to use it within the schedule shown below. However, repeated minor falls, heat from rapid rapelling, and rapelling using small diameter carabiners all tend to weaken rope. Climbing Rope Replacement Schedule:
Occasional use, e.g., alternate weekends: every 4 years Every Weekend: every 2 years Sport climbing involving frequent short falls: every 3 ‐ 6 months Major fall (approaching factor 2): immediately Flat spots, soft spots, becoming stiff, sheath damage: immediately
Unsure of condition or history: immediately
Round Lashing A Round Lashing is used to bind adjacent poles together.
Round Lashing Technique Start with a Clove Hitch around both poles. Wrap six or eight turns around the two poles. Finish with another Clove Hitch. Two Round Lashings can be used to make a longer pole.
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Round Lashing Details Use: The Round Lashing is similar to the one described by Ashley for scaffolding (ABOK # 2103, p 342) It is used to lash two parallel spars together to make a longer one.
Increased Security: Many descriptions describe the difficulty of making the lashing tight enough to be secure. A common recommendation is to hammer two wedges between the poles, one above and one below the lashing. This tightens the lashing and makes it more secure.
Round Turn and Two Half Hitches An excellent knot for securing a rope to a post or ring. The initial turns take the load, e.g., of a mooring line during docking. While one hand holds the strain, the knot is then tied with the other.
Round Turn and Two Half Hitches Tying Pass the end around the post twice. This takes the strain while you tie the knot. Go around the standing end to make the first Half Hitch. Pull this tight. Continue around in the same direction to make the second Half Hitch. Pull tight to complete the knot. The Round Turn and Two Half Hitches is essentially a round turn fastened back to the standing end with a clove hitch. It is similar to the anchor bend but the first Half Hitch is not passed under the initial turn.
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Round Turn and Two Half Hitches Details A Useful Boating Knot: A Round Turn and Two (or more) Half Hitches (ABOK # 1720, p 296) is useful for attaching a mooring line to a dock post or ring although probably less secure than the Anchor Hitch (below). As the name suggests, the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches is composed of two important parts: Round Turn: The initial 'Round Turn' – actually two passes of the tail – should take the initial strain while you complete the knot. This may be critical when handling a mooring line. An additional turn, or even two additional turns, should be added initially if you are handling a heavy load, e.g., with a large vessel or in a strong wind. These turns allow you to control the load while you add the: Two or More Half Hitches. The two Half Hitches actually form a clove hitch round the standing end. However, it is common to see an additional one, or more Half Hitches ‐ either to make the knot more secure or to use up excess line. Tying the Knot: Learn to tie the Half Hitches with one hand! This allows you to use the other hand to take the strain of a vessel that may easily pull with a force far greater than you could otherwise control. As emphasized above, when dealing with such force, use as many turns on the post as are necessary to control the strain. Direction: Always tie the Half Hitches in the same 'direction'. If you start the first Half Hitch with the tail passing away from you above the rope, then do the same with the next (and the next). Variation Using a Bight: When there is a long tail, the Half Hitches can be tied using a bight (loop) instead of the end. This consumes excess rope which may otherwise hang in the way or require coiling. http://www.animatedknots.com/roundturn/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.a nimatedknots.com
Running Bowline The Running Bowline is identical to a normal bowline but is tied around the standing end so that it can slide, e.g., up to a tree branch.
Running Bowline Tying Pass the rope over the pole. Form a loop in the tail. Pass the short end round the standing end, through the loop, around itself, and back through the loop to form the bowline. Pull on the standing end to run the bowline up against the pole.
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Running Bowline Details Uses: The Running Bowline (ABOK # 1117, p 204) is a valuable way of tying a type of noose which will not bind and can be slid undone easily. In boating it is recommended for use when retrieving lumber or rigging which has fallen
overboard and in climbing for retrieving objects in places such as crevasses. At home it is useful to hang a Child's Swing. The first challenge is to find a suitable branch and the second is to successfully throw the rope over it. Options: When the Standing End is available, it is often easier to first tie the Bowline and then thread the Standing End through it. Retrieval: Once the knot is snug up against the branch, retrieval later can be a problem. The knot may be twenty feet in the air and you have neither intrepid rope climbers nor long ladders. Advance planning provides options: either a light retrievable line attached to the bowline or a very long tail to the bowline. However, if the long end option is considered, the Alpine Butterfly Loop would be better because it requires no threading of a long end to tie it. Alternatives: A similar running noose could be created with various loop knots ‐ including the Noose itself. The advantage of using a knot like a bowline is that it will not close up and bind on the standing end. So long as the rope is under tension, the running bowline will grip its load ‐ or the branch. When not loaded the knot can be easily undone. http://www.animatedknots.com/bowlinerunning/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=w ww.animatedknots.com
Sailmaker's Whipping The Sailmaker's Whipping is the standard against which other whippings are compared: elegant and secure, the binding turns encircle the whipping to prevent the strands from unwinding if damaged.
Sailmaker's Whipping Tying Thread the twine between the strands. Wrap the long end around the rope. Pass it under a strand, down a groove and under a strand, up a groove and under a strand. Similarly, pass the short end down, under, up, under, down and under. Tie the ends with Square (Reef) knots. Pull them through, cut short, and trim.
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Sailmaker's Whipping Details Uses: The Sailmaker's Whipping (ABOK # 3446, p 547) is the most secure whipping. The whipping turns are contained by the frapping turns that both grip the rope and prevent the whipping from unwinding if damaged. It looks most satisfying when applied to the end of a three‐strand rope ‐ each pair of frapping strands follows the twist of the rope and is accommodated in the groove. This whipping can be used equally well on braided or kernmantle rope ‐ but greater care is required to distribute the frapping turns evenly round the whipping. Techniques: There are several variations of this whipping:
Needles: With three‐stranded rope, this whipping can often be tied without a needle: the strands of the rope can be opened up by hand to pass the twine through between them. However, a large needle makes the task easier and is essential equipment when tying a Sailmaker's Whipping round a braided or kernmantle rope. Number of Frapping Turns: Many texts describe this whipping with just one frapping strand lying in each groove ‐ which necessitates a different start to the whipping. As shown in the animation, the short end is initially threaded diagonally and is wound inside the whipping. When using a single frapping turn, the short end must be left outside the whipping turns and then threaded up outside the whipping and through the rope to trap the long end. Completing the Whipping: The animation describes finishing the knot with a chain of square knots. If necessary, use a needle to pull this chain through the rope. The knots are then buried and very unlikely to shake loose. Burning the end: A rope's end, whipped with a Sailmaker's and trimmed is a neat and attractive work of art. Although melting the end diminishes its beauty, it is sensible, provides additional protection, and is recommended. For ropes that do not melt, e.g., aramid core such as Kevlar, it is still worth doing as it still seals the sheath. Ideally, trim the aramid core shorter than the sheath and burn the sheath to cover and bury the core. Braided Rope: It is relatively easy to decide where to thread the twine in three stranded rope ‐ the gap between each of the three strands provides a natural target and the three strands dictate that one pair of frapping turns will lie in each groove. In braided rope the principle is the same, the frapping turns should be distributed evenly round the rope. However, in smaller braided ropes, it is not uncommon to see just two sets of frapping turns 180 degrees apart instead of three sets 120 degrees apart. For larger, and more valuable rope, three sets are strongly recommended.
Shear Lashing A Shear Lashing is used to hold two poles together at one end so that the other ends can be spread apart to act as shear legs.
Shear Lashing Technique Tie a clove hitch around one pole. Wrap both poles with a simple lashing. Wrap the lashing with a two or three tight frapping turns. Tie off the end with a clove hitch. Spead the poles to make shear legs
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Shear Lashing Details Use: The Shear Lashing (ABOK # 2108 ‐ 2110, p 342.) is used to lash the ends of two poles together. The other ends are separated to make a pair of Shear Legs.
Spelling: This Lashing is widely spelled both "Shear" and "Sheer". There seems to be little agreement and some writers use both on the same page. "Shear" was selected here because it was Ashley's choice. Tying it: The two poles are laid side‐by‐side and an initial Clove Hitch is tied round one pole. A Round Lashing is then tied around the two poles near one end. Then two or three Frapping turns are tied binding the lashing turns tightly. Starting these turns can be awkward. It is sometimes necessary to spread the legs apart to open up the poles to make it possible. The Lashing is completed with another Clove Hitch. The other ends of the poles are then separated to make a pair of Shear Legs. Use: Shear legs support weight. A single pair can be controlled with a rope as they lean over a stream to lift a bucket. A series of them can support an aerial walkway. Frapping Turns: The turns surrounding the lashing at right angles exert a tightening effect on the lashing. These turns are known as Frapping Turns. Pulling them as tight as possible makes the Lashing more secure. Various techniques are recommended, but I'm indebted to Dana Holgate for the following: wrap the rope around a stick, stand on the pole, bend your knees, hold the stick across your thighs and then pull by straightening your legs.
Sheepshank The Sheepshank is a knot which can be used to shorten a length of rope. It is not reliable when tied in some modern ropes and is only included here as Scouts are still sometimes expected to learn how to tie it.
Sheepshank Knot Tying Fold the rope to approximately the desired new length. Form a Half Hitch in one standing end, drop it over the adjacent bight, and tighten it. Form a Half Hitch in the other standing end, drop it over its adjacent bight, and then tighten it too. Apply the load carefully.
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Sheepshank Knot Details Avoid Using It: The Sheepshank should never be used. It is only included here because Boy Scouts used to be required to learn it. Ashley described Sheepshanks (ABOK # 1152 ‐ 1154, p 210) but cautioned that they "......should be seized or otherwise secured to make them safe unless the need is very temporary...." Failure Under Load: Some modern synthetic materials tend to be flexible and slippery. The illustration on the left shows a correctly tied sheepshank failing under modest load. This is a piece of three strand nylon rope and this failure was reproduced easily and repeatedly.
Eliminate It: If you are asked to learn to tie the Sheepshank, please request your Troop Leader to eliminate this knot and replace it with something safe and useful. For example, the Alpine Butterfly Loop is an excellent way of creating a loop in the middle of a length of rope and can also be safely used to shorten a rope. Bellringer's Knot: Bellringer's use just one end of a Sheepshank (right) to keep the tail of the rope off the ground when not being used. Practical Limitations: In practice, the Sheepshank would be almost impossible to tie under load; shortening one end and re‐securing the line would be preferable. As a knot, it cannot pass through blocks or sheaves. In the critical environments presented by climbing, search and rescue, and boating, there are no applications where the Sheepshank would offer an acceptable solution. Substitution: One suggested use for the Sheepshank is the protection of a damaged or weakened piece of rope. A more secure alternative is the Alpine Butterfly Loop. http://www.animatedknots.com/sheepshank/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Sheet Bend (Becket Bend) The Sheet Bend joins two ropes of unequal size but also works well if the ropes are of the same size. It has to be tied with both ends loose in your hands with no load on the ropes.
Sheet Bend Tying Form a loop in the thicker rope (blue) and hold it in one hand. Pass the thinner rope (red) through the loop and behind the (blue) tail and standing ends in that order. Finally, tuck the smaller rope under itself to finish the knot. The Double Sheet Bend uses a second turn around the thicker rope. It is recommended when there is a great difference in the diameters of the two ropes.
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Sheet Bend Details Uses: The Sheet Bend (ABOK # 1431, p 262) is recommended for joining two ropes of unequal size. The thicker rope must be used for the simple bight as shown. It works equally well if the ropes are of the same size. Becket Hitch: The Becket Hitch is a very similar knot. However, it is a "Hitch": it does not join two ropes, it attaches a rope to a Becket (a rope handle or an eye). In the picture above the Blue Rope would be Becket and the Red Rope would be tied to it with a Becket Hitch. The Sheet Bend would replace the Square (Reef) knot except for the awkward fact that it
is not a binding knot – it has to be tied with both ends loose in your hands with no load on the ropes (The Square Knot ‐ with all its faults ‐ can be tied tight against a sail, or parcel, and usually stays tight while the second Half Hitch is tied). Double Sheet Bend: When the ropes are markedly different in size, the tail of the smaller rope can be taken twice round the bight in the larger rope to create the double sheet bend. Structure: When correctly tied the two tails lie on the same side of the knot. The alternative version ‐ with the tails on opposite sides ‐ is less reliable. http://www.animatedknots.com/sheetbend/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.a nimatedknots.com
Short Splice The Short Splice makes a secure join between two pieces of three strand rope.
Short Splice Tying Tape the rope. Unravel enough for about 5 tucks (3 shown here). Push the ends into each other and tape the middle. Make the first complete set of tucks, and then another. Repeat this using the other end. Remove the tapes, tighten, and complete the remaining tucks.
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Short Splice Details Short Splce: Ashley describes the Short Splice and its variants in detail (ABOK # 2634, p 427). Natural fibers hold well with three tucks each side. Modern synthetic materials, however, tend to be slippery and, now, a minimum of five complete "tucks" is recommended. Pros and Cons: The Short Splice makes a secure join between two lengths of three‐strand rope. This is entirely satisfactory for some purposes, e.g., making a longer towrope or dinghy painter. However, it is useless for any running rigging because the splice will be too fat to pass through any blocks. Long Splice: The Short Splice is named in contrast to the so‐called Long Splice – which joined two three‐strand ropes with no appreciable bulge and would pass through blocks. The Long Splice required a long overlap in which strands were carefully unraveled and re‐laid with a strand from the other rope. Then, the two strands in each pair were tapered and carefully wrapped round each other. In tarred hemp it was feasible – but produced at best a weak result. In nylon rope I have never attempted it – too slippery and too difficult to control.
Sliding Splice by Grog The Sliding Splice makes an adjustable splice suitable for making a yachtsman's belt. It is made by raising loops in alternate strands in a three stranded rope.
Grog's Sliding Splice Tying Use a rod with a tapered end to open up alternate strands. Replace this rod with six separate rods. Rotate each rod to make a larger twisted loop. Pass the rod from one end through all the loops. Attach the other end of the rope to this rod. Pull the rope through the loops to complete the knot.
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Sliding Splice Details Uses: The Sliding Splice provides a neat method of creating an adjustable yachtsman's belt. The belt is constructed using an Eye Splice at one end and a sliding splice at the other end. A snap shackle fastens the two ends. Additional clips and shackles can be added to attach knife lanyards etc. Tying it: The adjustable splice is made in three‐stranded rope. Both ends are secured: a whipping looks best on the sliding splice end; temporary taping suffices on the other end while the sliding splice is being made. When completed, an eye splice can be added to attach the snap shackle. Six alternating strands are opened up using pencils or pieces of doweling rod. Each rod is rotated until a loop is formed to the side of the rope. The short rods are then replaced with one longer rod. This enables the rope to be worked until the loops are all symmetrical and the rope is restored to its normal shape. The long rod is then taped to the end of the rope so that as the rod is withdrawn, the rope follows it through the loops. Further working and stretching makes the splice grip the rope. History: I first described the sliding splice in a British yachting magazine around 1960. My files no longer record which journal or which issue. About twenty years after publishing the description, a woman noticed my belt and said: "you must have read the same article that I did!" So, at least one person read the article. The original belt is still in good condition 46 years later, as is the original photograph which was submitted for publication (right). Other Uses: One of the reasons for describing this splice was to discover other uses for it. After six months of displaying it, I finally found one. Charlie Pfeiffer wrote: "I used the sliding splice when pulling wire as an electrician. It
is an easy way to quickly put a loop on the end of a piece of rope without creating a big knot that would make pulling difficult."
Slip Knot The Slip Knot provides a temporary loop in the end of a rope ‐ which loosens when pulled. This page also provides a link to the Noose to help compare these two similar knots.
Slip Knot Tying Form a loop in the end of the rope. Prepare a bight in the short end. Tuck the bight through the loop and tighten. The knot can be used as temporary stopper knot. To release the slip knot, just pull on the short end to let the rope run free.
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Slip Knot Details Uses: The slip knot (ABOK # 529, p 87) is identical in structure to the Noose Knot except that the bight to be inserted is formed from the short end – not the long. It is one of the most frequently tied knots ‐ being used in knitting as the first loop when casting on – where it is called a slip knot but frequently tied as a noose. It can be used as a temporary stopper knot ‐ as shown in the animation. Confusion: Some writers apply the term "Slip Knot" to other knots ‐ where any loop slides along the standing end. However, such knots also have well known other names, e.g., Bowline on a Bight and various fishing knots that can be slid to tighten. Moreover, such knots do NOT function as Slip Knots. Because they tighten under load, they actually function as nooses. For this reason, the generic misuse of the name Slip Knots is deplored. On this website Slip Knot is reserved for this one knot. Slipped Knots: Many knots can be completed with a bight instead of the end. A knot tied this way is described as slipped, e.g., a Slipped Rolling Hitch. Slipped Buntline Hitch, Slipped Half Hitch. Theoretically, the knot can then be quickly untied by pulling on the free end to release the bight. In practice, this depends on how much load has reached the bight. With some tightly loaded knots, e.g., a Buntline Hitch, it can be difficult to release and almost impossible to pull the final curve of the bight itself out of the tightened turn. http://www.animatedknots.com/slip/index.php?Categ=basics&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedk nots.com
Snell Knot The Snell Knot ties a leader, or tippet, directly to a baited hook. It was originally developed for use with hooks that had no eyes, but it is still widely used today.
Snell Knot Tying Pass the end of the leader through the eye and then through again in the same direction. Grip the eye and both parts of the line. Wrap the loop around the shank of the hook 7 or 8 times. Shrink the loop by pulling on the standing end. Lubricate and pull both ends to tighten the knot and trim the end.
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Snell Knot Details Uses: The Snell Knot allows the leader, or tippet, to be directly tied to a baited hook. It was originally invented for use with eyeless hooks but it is still widely used today. It aligns the fishing line or leader with the shank of the hook.
Tying it: The Snell knot requires wrapping a loop around the hook. When tightening the knot, hold the turns under your fingers to ensure they snug down neatly. Advantages: The Snell Knot is one of the older knots and is claimed to provide a reliable connection that preserves the strength of the line – particularly if the thickness of the eye is greater than the line diameter. http://www.animatedknots.com/snell/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animate dknots.com
Square Knot (Reef) The Square, or Reef, Knot joins equal sized ropes, e.g., sail covers or a parcel. Never use it for human or other critical loads ‐ it may spill into two Half Hitches and then slip. It is fequently tied wrongly as a “Granny Knot”.
Square Knot (Reef Knot) Tying Take two ropes and cross them (red over blue) to form a half knot. Cross them a second time (red over blue again) and pull the ends tight to form the Square Knot. For greater security add extra half knots. The Surgical Knot makes a more secure first half knot because it employs an additional crossing. The knot is routinely employed during surgery and also underlies several fishing and climbing knots. The "Granny" Knot is a common mistake – the second half knot has been tied with the red rope crossing "under" the blue This knot tends to slip and its use should be avoided. The "Thief" Knot is included here for interest. The tails lie on opposite sides of the knot. Sailors were said to use the thief knot so that they could recognize when a thief had been tampering with their bags. The story sounds improbable because the Thief Knot is awkward to tie and it doesn't hold.
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Square Knot (Reef Knot) Details First Knot: The Square (Reef) Knot (ABOK # 1402, p 258) is usually learned when we tie the laces on our first pair of shoes. Admittedly it is usually a bow that we tie ‐ but the underlying knot is a Square (Reef) Knot. We also learn just how unsatisfactory the knot is. It slips, it comes undone, it jams, and it is all too easy to tie a granny instead which behaves even less well. Purpose: It is intended to be a binding knot and, tied in the right material against a curved surface, the first Half Knot may bind – but it cannot be trusted. That is why surgeons use an extra turn in the first Half Knot – to achieve the binding required while they prepare the second Half Knot. Caution: Click on the picture on the left to demonstrate how even a "Stack" of Square Knots capsize and pull undone. These photographs were created by pulling on the ends of the red rope. "There have probably been more lives lost as a result of using a Square Knot as a bend (to tie two ropes together) than from the failure of any other half dozen knots combined." (ABOK page 258). Never use it for critical loads. Uses: Nevertheless, the Square (Reef) knot has many uses but not where safety is critical, e.g., you can tie a sail cover over a sail; you can tie the string on a gift; and you can tie the laces on your shoes (if they still come with laces). It is also one of the many knots used in macrame. More importantly, the experience of tying a Square Knot teaches the fundamental process of tying a Half Knot or Half Hitch. Variations: When the Square (Reef) Knot is used it is common to add additional Half Knots as security ‐ a tribute to how unsatisfactory a knot it is. A better alternative may be to use two Surgeon's Half Knots, which make better binding knots for each stage and a secure final knot. When the second Half Surgeon's Knots is tied as a bow, it makes a Secure Shoelace Bow. The Square (Reef) knot can also be tied using bights (loops). For example, to use up long shoelaces, the knot can be tied with loops from the start. This means the final "bow" cannot be untied by pulling the ends ‐ but it makes a secure knot. http://www.animatedknots.com/reef/index.php?Categ=basics&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animated knots.com
Square Lashing A Square Lashing is used to hold two poles at a 90‐degree angle to one another.
Square Lashing Technique Start with a Clove Hitch around one pole. Twist short end around long and wrap the rope around both poles, alternately going over and under each pole about three or four turns. Tighten the lashing by surrounding it with three or four frapping turns. Finish with a final Clove Hitch.
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Square Lashing Details Use: The Square Lashing (ABOK # 2114, p 343.) is used to bind together two spars that are at right angles with one another. Square lashings are designed to be load bearing and can be used to create scaffolding. Scouting: Square lashings can be used to make a rectangular frame (right). Many applications have been described including: making support frames; when two trees are close enough, a table can be supported by a pair of poles or branches lashed horizontally either side of the trees; a fence can be constructed by driving poles into the ground and then joining them with bars attached with Square Lashings; and a raft can be created by lashing bamboo poles across each other. Frapping Turns: The turns surrounding the lashing at right angles exert a tightening effect on the lashing. These turns are known as Frapping Turns. Pulling them as tight as possible makes the Lashing more secure. Various techniques are recommended, but I'm indebted to Dana Holgate for the following: wrap the rope around a stick, stand on the pole, bend your knees, hold the stick across your thighs and then pull by straightening your legs.
Surgeon's Knot The Surgeon's Knot joins two fishing lines of moderately unequal size, e.g., when attaching a tippet to a leader.
Surgeon's Knot Tying Place the leader and the tippet side by side. Use both lines to form a loop with enough overlap to tie a double overhand knot. Pull both ends through the loop and then through a second time. Lubricate the knot and pull it tight. Trim the ends.
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Surgeon's Knot Details Uses: The Surgeon's Knot, or Surgeon's Join, is easy to tie and is useful to join two lines of moderately unequal size, e.g., a tippet to a leader. It is actually tied as a Double Overhand Knot ‐ which probably explains why it is sometimes known as the Double Surgeon's Knot ‐ redundant because "Surgeon's" implies the use of the two turns.
The Surgeon's Knot allows you, with the same leader, to select the size of tippet to suit the size of the fly. It is usually used to join two pieces of monofilament. Tying it: The Surgeon's Knot can only be tied with a tippet because the usual method of tying it requires the entire length of the tippet to be passed through the overhand knot twice. After forming the knot, carefully set the knot by pulling on all four ends. Alternative: As an option, the two lines can be passed through the overhand knot a third time to form the Triple Surgeon's knot. Advantages: The Surgeon's Knot is one of the easiest knots to learn and is an excellent knot to join two lines of moderately unequal size. Disadvantages: It is rather bulkier than the Blood Knot and creates a slight angle in the line. http://www.animatedknots.com/surgeonsjoin/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Surgeon's Loop Knot The Surgeon's Loop is a quick and easy way to make a loop in the end of your line
Surgeon's Loop Knot Tying Form a bight in the end of the line and tie an overhand knot. Pass the bight through a second time. Adjust the bight to create the desired loop size. Lubricate and pull the knot tight. Trim the end.
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Surgeon's Loop Knot Details Uses: The Surgeon's Loop is essentially a Double Overhand Knot. It can be tied quickly and easily in the end of a line. It is often used to make a "Loop to Loop" connection or to create a fixed loop that allows the artificial lure or fly to move naturally. Tying it: It is tied in the same way as the Surgeon's Knot. Alternative: An extra turn can be used to create a Triple Surgeon's Knot. However, this provides minimal additional benefit and makes the knot bulkier. Advantages: The advantage for this knot is that is reliable, easy to learn, and some sources claim that it retains a high proportion of the rated line strength.
http://www.animatedknots.com/surgeonsloop/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www. animatedknots.com
Tensionless Hitch The Tensionless Hitch secures a rope to a tree or pole by wrapping the rope enough times to ensure that there is no tension in the tail. This end is then finished with a Figure 8 loop and clipped to the standing end with a carabiner.
Tensionless Hitch Tying Prepare sufficient rope to make 3 or 4 turns around the post. Make a Figure 8 Loop in the end and attach a carabiner. Wrap the rope around the post. Make sure there is sufficent slack and clip the carabiner to the standing end. A kink in the standing end is an error.
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Tensionless Hitch Details Uses: The Tensionless Hitch shares a critically important feature with the Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. It is used to gain secure control of a loaded line by wrapping the rope around a post or tree several times. This is the key to the safe handling of heavy loads. Similar Knot: Another similar knot is the Lighterman's – which starts with turns wrapped around a post and is completed with alternating turns enclosing the standing end. Of these two knots we prefer the Lighterman's because it exerts less rotational force on the post. Advantages: An exception might be a rope loaded to near breaking point because the Tensionless Hitch is claimed to preserve most of the ropes breaking strain. However, this knot is nearly always used to support critical loads, i.e.,
people. The required safety factor renders this advantage more theoretical than practical. More plainly, if you're that worried, choose a larger rope. Number of Turns: The diameter of the post or tree selected should be at least eight times the diameter of the rope. Descriptions of the Tensionless Hitch indicate that the number of turns used may be increased when the post is smooth and polished. Confusing language describes the number of turns. If a rope has made a single "wrap", it has been passed behind a post, and then knotted to itself; it has NOT made "one Round Turn". Two "wraps" for a climber is called "One Round Turn" in boating. In the animation above the rope wraps around the pole three times making "two round turns". Tying it: A Figure 8 Loop in the end is clipped to the standing end with no tension; hence the name "tensionless". The animation shows a carabiner completing this knot. However, the tail can also be secured directly to the standing end using Half Hitches or a Figure 8 Follow Through. Nomenclature: The name "Tensionless" has been deprecated. However, suggestions for some alternative, e.g., "High Strength Tie‐Off", or "Multi‐Wrap Anchor", have not gained favor – for the obvious reason that "Tensionless" is in widespread use.
Timber Hitch The Timber Hitch provides a strong temporary attachment to cargo or to a log or spar and can be used to tow a log or spar either afloat or on land. A great merit is that when the load is released, the knot almost falls undone.
Timber Hitch Tying Pass the end of the rope around the pole and then around the standing end. Wrap the end around itself three times and tighten the knot so that the three turns are gripped against the pole.
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Timber Hitch Details Uses: The Timber Hitch is described by (Ashley ABOK #1665, p 290) as much used for handling cargo "... for which it is very convenient, as it practically falls apart when pull ceases." It is also useful when towing a spar or log either afloat or on land. When used for this purpose, the Timber Hitch is often placed near the center of the spar and a separate Half Hitch is dropped over the end of the spar to act as a guide. Other Applications: The same hitch is known as a Bowyer's Knot because it attaches the end of the bow string on a longbow. It is also used to attach the strings on some stringed instruments including the ukelele and the guitar. http://www.animatedknots.com/timber/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Trilene Knot The Trilene Knot provides a strong and reliable knot to join monofilament line to hooks, swivels, and lures.
Trilene Knot Tying Pass the tag end of the line through the eye twice. Wrap it around the standing end five or six times. Thread the end through the original loop beside the eye. Lubricate and pull the knot tight. Trim the end, but not too short.
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Trilene Knot Details Uses: The Trilene Knot is a strong and reliable knot to join monofilament line to hooks, swivels and lures. It resists slippage and failures and is an excellent and stronger alternative to the Clinch Knot. Tying it: When trimming the tag end, leave about an eighth of an inch for security. Advantages: The double wrap of line through the eye takes some of the strain and may be responsible for claims that this knot retains a high proportion of ideal line strength. This is more likely when the thickness of the eye is greater than the line diameter. http://www.animatedknots.com/trilene/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animat edknots.com
Tripod Lashing A Tripod Lashing is used to join three poles to one another for use as a tripod.
Tripod Lashing Technique Start with a Clove Hitch around one pole. Wrap about six racking turns around the three poles weaving in and out between them. Make two or three tight frapping turns in the two gaps. Finish with a Clove Hitch. Cross the two outside poles to form the tripod.
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Form Tripod
Tripod Lashing Details Use: Ashley shows a Tripod Lashing (ABOK # 2111, p 342) but he shows the two side legs spreading apart from each other instead of crossing. The method shown in the animation is preferred because the legs bind against each other for greater stability. Racking Turns: The lashing passes to and fro between the poles. This increases the contact between rope and wood and reduces slipping. Such turns are known as Racking turns. Frapping Turns: The turns surrounding the lashing at right angles exert a tightening effect on the lashing. These turns are known as Frapping Turns. Options: Some descriptions start with the center pole extending in the opposite direction from the two side legs. Forming the tripod then twists and tightens the lashing, and can even break it if tied too tightly. A lashing which is too tight or extends for too great a length may either prevent the tripod from being formed or may overload the rope. In this respect the Tripod Lashing differs from other lashings: it is possible to make it too tight! On occasion, trial and error may be required to obtain the correct tension. Scouting: Four tripods can be used to support a pair of horizontal poles under a table.
Trucker's Hitch (Lorry, Haymaker's, Harvester's) The Trucker's Hitch is used to secure a load or a tarpaulin down to a hook or other fixed point. It provides a three to one purchase which makes it easier to tighten the rope and reduces the strain on the final knot.
Trucker's (Haymaker's, Harvester's, Lorry) Hitch Tying Form a bight in the standing end and use it to tie a Directional Figure 8 Knot. Pass the tail round the hook below and through the Directional Figure 8 Loop, and pull tight. Complete the knot with two Half Hitches below the loop.
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Trucker's (Haymaker's, Harvester's, Lorry) Hitch Details Use: The Trucker's Hitch (Lorry Knot, Haymaker's Hitch, Harvester's Hitch) (ABOK # 2124, p 344) has the distinctive feature of providing a mechanical advantage when being tightened. The variety of names for this hitch is a tribute to its widespread use. It is a valuable knot ‐ particularly for securing loads or tarpaulins.
3:1 Purchase: The arrangement of line provides a theoretical 3:1 purchase. However, rope is running over rope with considerable friction. In practice the mechanical advantage is much less, may be more like 1.6:1. However, hauling on the line can be surged and then the friction is an advantage as it helps hold the gain while the end is secured. The theoretical 3:1 gain assumes that the lower attachment point is fixed and the upper point is being moved. Structure: There are several variations in widespread use. The common factors are: a knot to create an eye at the top; the three to one purchase; and a hitch to secure the end. Several knots may be used at the top including the Directional Figure 8 (used in the animation, the Slip Knot, the Bowline on a Bight, the Alpine Butterfly, and, simplest of all, a mere twist of the rope to create the loop. The final hitch can be a Rolling Hitch which has the advantage that it facilitates adjustment. Whichever hitch is used, the rope may be passed around the lower hook a second time before being secured. Classical Structure: Early descriptions show a Figure 8 Loop used to form the initial loop. However, this tends to be hard to untie after heavy loads and the version in the animation is preferred. Taking the Strain: After the free end is threaded and tightened, the load can be taken temporarily by pinching the rope where it passes through the loop. The other hand is then used to form the two Half Hitches. http://www.animatedknots.com/truckers/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
Tumble Hitch This Tumble Hitch is is a quick‐release knot.
Tumble Hitch Tying Hold an initial bight of the rope against the pole. Place a second bight behind the pole and through the initial bight. Pass the tail around the Standing End. Then tuck a bight through the second one. Tighten to secure the knot and take the load. Pull the tail to release.
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Release
Tumble Hitch Details Origin: Dan Lehman described a variation on the Highwayman's Hitch at the end of his entry on March 6, 2004 in Google Groups rec.crafts.knots but he gave it no name. Roo replied, created drawings, named it the Tumble Hitch, and now shows it on his website Notable Knots. This is now the accepted name for Lehman's idea. Like a Slipped Buntline, it is an excellent quick‐release hitch that holds a load until released by a pull on the free tail. Tying it: The standing part remains passive while the knot is being tied. The user can hold up the first bight, and then transfer his grip to the second and third bight in succession. When complete, the hitch should be carefully tightened. Similar Knots: Many quick‐release hitches have been described. The Highwayman's and Mooring are also described here. Of the three, the Tumble Hitch is the best.
Real Danger: Quick release hitches share a major fault: entanglement of the free tail with the moving load can trigger abrupt release. A climber, frightened by a sudden slip or jerk, might grab at the adjacent line and trigger a fatal fall. Quick release knots should not be used for retrieving a climbing rope because there are recommended alternatives: 1, 2, 3, 4. Other Uses: The Tumble Hitch is suitable for temporary, supervised use to hold non‐critical loads, e.g., while boarding a kayak. Or, a dinghy may be temporarily secured alongside a high dock. The Tumble Hitch can be used to lower several loads of provisions into the dinghy. Then, when the owner has climbed down the ladder and is safely aboard, the tail of the dinghy painter can be pulled to retrieve it. Advantages: The Tumble Hitch is stable and jam‐proof even with heavy loads. The design of the hitch transfers the load first to an intermediate bight and then to the final locking bight. This limits the load on the locking bight and avoids jamming. Longer use: To use the Tumble Hitch for longer periods, the final bight can be lengthened and tied off as an overhand knot around the standing end. The jam‐proof benefits are retained and the overhand knot can be untied when the quick‐release feature is required.
Turk's Head (Woggle) The Turk's Head makes a neat ring ‐ most commonly employed as a slide, or woggle, for a boy scout's scarf.
Turk's Head (Woggle) Tying Wrap the line around your hand (wood here) overlapping to start the braiding. On the third pass, braid the end and the loops together. Rotate the braid to keep it in view and continue braiding. Then continue braiding by following the rope around the same path for all three turns. Finish by tucking the ends in. Finished.
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Turk's Head (Woggle) Details Uses: The Turk's Head (ABOK # 1303 ‐ 5, p 232) is widely used as a slide, or woggle, for scout's scarves. Tying it: The Turk's Head is usually tied around the hand. For the demonstration here, the braiding was performed round a piece of wood and the work was rotated as the braiding advanced. Variations: There are many variations on the simple Turk's head. With a large enough loop, many more braids can be created before making the end follow the lead of the first round of braiding; more than one strand can be used; and the number of times the end follows the lead can be varied. Finishing: Traditionally scout woggles were not secured. Supposedly, the woggle could be undone for use around the camp or, if made of a leather thong, for starting a fire using friction. However, most modern rope slides easily and the woggle may slip undone. As modern rope also melts, it is possible to fuse the ends after warming them using a candle. WARNING: Molten nylon is dangerously hot. Neither molten nylon, nor the recently heated rope end should come into contact with your skin!
Demonstration: The process of braiding using a single end is readily understood by practicing with a short length as shown on the left. With a longer length, this process can be repeated many times until the end of the loop is reached.
Wall Knot The Wall creates a small stopper knot tied using the strands of the rope. It is component of the Matthew Walker and the Manrope Knot.
Wall Knot Tying Unwind enough rope to form the knot and re‐lay the rope. Pass one strand around in the direction of the rope's lay and under the next strand. Repeat the same process with the second and again with the third which will exit through the first strand. Tighten the knot and re‐lay the rope.
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Wall Knot Details Uses: The Wall Knot is tied using the strands of a rope. It provides a permanent (small) stopper knot in a rope. Its greater use is as a component of other decorative knots such as the Wall and Crown (Manrope Knot) and the Double Matthew Walker. Relationship to the Crown: The Crown and the Wall are very closely related. They only differ in how they are tied with respect to the rope. The crown directs the strands back down the rope and the wall directs the strands away from the rope. They are in fact identical; with no "end" to determine the "direction" there is no way to distinguish a Wall from a Crown. http://www.animatedknots.com/wall/index.php?Categ=decorative&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.anim atedknots.com
Wall, Crown, and Manrope Knot The Wall and the Crown are essential components of many decorative knots. Here the strands of the rope are used to tie a Wall followed by a Crown to make a ball on the rope's end.
Wall and Crown (Manrope Knot) Tying Unravel the strands of the rope and tie a Wall knot. Then take each strand across its neighbor to make a Crown. Tuck each strand round so that it follows itself. Carefully tighten each stand in turn to achieve a neat appearance. Trim the ends.
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Wall and Crown (Manrope Knot) Details
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Uses: The Wall and Crown (ABOK # 672, p 117; and # 847, p156), when followed round, make a pleasing ball or button on the end of a rope. The crown and wall are fundamental components of many decorative knots. The name "Manrope Knot" is a later name for a "Double Wall and Crown". Structure: In both the Crown and the Wall, each strand is tucked under its neighbor. They are identical except for the direction of the main rope. If two rope ends faced each other, a wall in one end would be identical to a crown in the other. Difference: The important difference is that a wall leaves the ends continuing on so that they may be laid up again to continue the rope. By contrast a crown directs the ends back in a convenient position to make a Backsplice. Finishing the Ball. In this animation the ends have been cut short and heated to prevent them fraying. Many variations are described: the Crown may precede the Wall; the number of turns may be varied; and the ends can be spliced back into the rope.
Water Knot The Water Knot is used to join two pieces of webbing strapping. The wide area of contact between the two straps ensures a secure knot.
Water Knot (Ring Bend) Tying Tie a loose overhand knot in the end of the strap. Thread the other strap in the reverse direction following the exact path of the first overhand knot. Pull the knot tight.
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Water Knot (Ring Bend) Tying Details Structure: The Water Knot (ABOK # 296, p 50) is essentially tied as an overhand knot (below left). It is sometimes known as a Ring Bend
The second strap (or rope) passes along the course of the Overhand Knot in the reverse direction. The knot should be arranged neatly and pulled tight. Uses: In climbing it is used to join two pieces of webbing strapping. Caution: The Water Knot has been reported to slip a little after cyclical low loading using some types of webbing. However, the commonly used 1" tubular nylon webbing resisted slipping under both high and low loading conditions. It is prudent to leave long tails with stopper knots in them and also inspect the Water Knot to check it has not slipped significantly. Also see Study by Tom Moyer. http://www.animatedknots.com/waterknot/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.a nimatedknots.com
West Country Whipping The West Country Whipping is easy to teach & learn. Overhand knots are tied back and front of the rope. The whipping is completed with a Reef Knot.
West Country Whipping Tying Pass the twine round the rope and tie a Half Knot. Repeat behind the rope and tie another. Continue making Half Knots in front and behind until the length of the whipping equals about the diameter of the rope. Finish with several Square (Reef) knots. Pull them through the rope and trim the ends.
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West Country Whipping Details Uses: The West Country Whipping (ABOK # 3458, p 548) must be the easiest whipping to teach and learn ‐ merely a series of Half Knots completed with a Square (Reef) Knot! No equipment is required except the whipping twine and it secures the end of a rope fairly well. The final Square Knot can shake loose followed by each Half Knot. However, it does fail slowly ‐ the Half Knots work their way loose in succession and, as each one loosens, an opportunity is presented to procrastinate: tie another Square Knot and put off having to whip the end properly with a better whipping. Techniques: There are several variations of this whipping:
Where to Start: When whipping a rope's end it seems natural to wind the twine outwards towards the end. There is, however, an advantage in starting at the end and winding the twine inwards: when the whipping is completed, the ends can be pulled through the body of the rope to prevent them unraveling. Square (Reef Knot): The classic description completes this whipping with a Square Knot with the ends trimmed. A heavily used rope will shake this Square Knot loose. If a needle is available it is worth burying the ends by pulling them through the rope. Multiple Square (Reef) Knots The West Country can be completed with a stack of Square Knots but this leaves an unsightly tail. If a needle is available, this string of Square Knots can be pulled through the rope to bury it. Start with a Constrictor: A quick way to start the West Country is to drop a Constrictor Knot on the end before tying Half Knots. This has the advantage of quickly gaining very secure control of the rope's end. It also leaves a fairly reliable last defense if the whipping comes undone.
Zeppelin Bend The Zeppelin Bend is one of a family of knots based on interlocking overhand knots. It joins two ropes of roughly the same size.
Zeppelin Bend Tying Form a bight in both ropes and overlap them. Pass each end around across itself ‐ going over for the top bight and under for the bottom bight. Thread both ends past each other through the middle. Tighten to form the Zeppelin Bend. Back view.
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Back view
Zeppelin Bend Details Uses: The Zeppelin Bend is one of the bends employing interlocking overhand knots. It is a reliable bend that can be untied even after being heavily loaded but not, however, while still under load. It is an excellent alternative to the more widely used Double Fisherman's because it eliminates the risk of jamming. History: The Zeppelin Bend has been described as used to secure Airships. Vice Admiral Charles Rosendahl, Commanding Officer of the American Zeppelin (Los Angeles/ZR3), was supposed to have insisted that the knot be used to moor his airship. Doubt has now been cast on both the use and the authorship. Giles Camplin, Editor of Airship Heritage Trust's Journal Dirigible reported the following in Issue No. 60, Summer 2010: (1) the docking procedure typically employed shackling two wires together; (2) in later life Rosendahl claimed
ignorance of the knot; (3) a Zeppelin knot cannot be untied under load; (4) a bend joining two ropes would be an awkward way to moor anything; and (5) a rigger who flew on the R100 reported they always used a Rolling Hitch. Similar Knots: The Zeppelin Bend is remarkably similar to several other bends including the Ashley, Hunter's, and the Alpine Butterfly Bend. Essentially all these knots employ interlocking overhand knots with the ends threaded through or across the middle. David M. Delaney tested these bends and the Carrick Bend for their tendency to jam. He heavily loaded the knots tied in 1/16 inch braided nylon. The Ashley and the Hunter's consistently jammed tight and would have had to be cut to release them. The Alpine Butterfly Bend, the Zeppelin, and the Carrick could all be untied easily using fingers and fingernails. Amongst the family of bends based on linked overhand knots, it would seem prudent to avoid the Ashley and the Hunter's. Tying it: The arrangement of the interlocking loops and the path of the ends through the center are critical. Although the Zeppelin is secure and can be untied easily, its similarity to other bends employing interlocking overhand knots risks confusion ‐ and mistakes. For this reason we also recommend the Alpine Butterfly Bend tied using the same technique employed for the Alpine Butterfly Loop. Technique is critical because Roo emphasizes the risk of creating an Evil Impostor when tied incorrectly. Advantages: The Zeppelin Bend is reliable with very little tendency to slip or bind. Testing by Roo found the knot to be exceptionally secure and shake‐resistant in all materials. In this respect he regards it as superior to the Alpine Butterfly Bend. Disadvantages: Attention to tying it correctly is critical. After it is tied, it can be hard to distinguish it from the less satisfactory Hunter's Bend. http://www.animatedknots.com/zeppelin/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.ani matedknots.com
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