67626337-Steel-Traps-1907

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41

STEEL TRAPSo

STEEL TRAPS.

Describes the Various to

Use

Makes and

Them — Also Care

Tells

Chapters on

of Pelts, Etc*

A. rI

HARDING.

PUBLISHED BY A. R.

HARDING PUBLISHING COLUMBUS, OHIO

CO.

How

Copyright

1907

B> A. R. Harding

CONTENTS. Page.

Chapter. I.

Sewell Newhouse

21

II.

Well Made Traps

27

III.

A Few

33

IV.

Some- European Traps

38

Proper Sizes

41

Newhouse Traps

50

V. VI.

Failures

Double and Webijed Jaw Traps

65

Victor and Hawley & Norton Traps

72

IX.

Jump Traps

75

X.

Tree Traps

81

Stop Thief Traps

8(3

Wide Spreading Jaws

90

VII. VIII.

XI. XII. XIII.

Caring For Traps

XIV.

Marking Traps

108

How How

112

XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII.

XIX.

XX.

to Fasten

to

Where

98

Set

117

to Set

133

Looking at Traps

143

Mysteriously Sprung Traps

152

Good Dens

160 7

CONTENTS.

8

Page.

Chapter.

XXI.

The

Proper Bait

170

Scent and Decoys

178

XXIII.

Hum AX

191

XXIV.

Hints on Fall Trapping

204

Land Trapping

211

Water Trapping

245

When

268

XXII.

XXV. XX\"I.

XXVII. XXVIII.

XXIX.

XXX. XXXI. XXXII.

Scent and Sign

to

Trap

Some Deep Water Sets

273

Skinning and Stretching

281

Handling and Grading

308

From Animal

to M.vrket

^Iiscellaneous Information

317

325

LIST

OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page.

Newhouse Traps Air.

Sewell

The

First

— All

Sizes

Newhouse

Shop

Frontispiece 22 24

Old Newhouse Trap

2(1

A

28

Well Made Trap

Limb Growing Thru Jaws

31

"Bob

33

Tail"'

Trap

Defective Pan Bearing

The

All

Steel

The Modified

34 34

All Steel

35

Poor Setting Device

35

Double Jaw Without Dog

36

The Duplex

37

The "No Cross"

37

German Fox Trap

38

English Rabbit Trap

39

Awaiting The Trapper

42

Wisconsin Trapper, Furs and Traps

45

Mink, Trapped Under No.

i>.

Newhouse Trap

An Old Root

48 51

LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS.

10

Page.

No.

1

No.

1

h

Newhouse Trap

51

Mink Trap

52

or

No. 2 or Fox Trap

53

No. 3 or Otter Trap

54

No. 4 or Wolf Trap

55

No. 2i or Otter Trap

With Teeth

No. 3J or Extra Strong Otter Trap No.

2U

Offset

Without Teeth

Newhouse

Chitch

Trap

Special

Wolf

56 57

Jaw Beaver Trap

Detachable

55

58 59 Traj)

59

Small Bear Trap

60

Small Bear Trap With Offset Jaws

61

Standard Bear Trap

61

Regular Bear Trap With Offset Jaws

62

Grizzly Bear Trap

62

Bear Trap Chain Clevis

63

Trap Setting Clamp

Steel

64

No. 81 or Webbed Jaw- Trap

67

No. 91 or Double Jaw Trap

68

A

70

Morning Catch

No.

1

Victor

of

Trap

No. 4 Victor Trap No.

1

Oneida Jump

Skunk

73 74 77

H

LIST OF ILLUSTKATIOXS.

Page.

No. 4 Oneida Jump

A

"Junii)"

Trai)

-jy

TrapiXT

79

The Tree Trap

g2

Tree Trap Set and Animal Approacliing

Animal Killed

in

84

Tree Trap

g4

Stop Thief Trap

Method

gy

of Setting Stop Thief

Trap

88

Trapper's Cabin and Pack Horses

91

Trapper Making Bear Set

95

Washing and Greasing Traps

99

Putting the Traps

in

Order

Traps and Trapper ^Marked and Ready to Set

The Sliding Pole

A

Staple

Fastening

Shallow Water Set

102 101

IO9

Hg H^ 1

1^

Hole Set Before Covering

Ug

Another Hole Set Before Covering

joq

Hole Set After Covering

loo

Wrong

Position Set

The Three Log

Set

Marten Shelf Set Big

Game

Set

Ring or Loop Fastening

l.)4

1-27

128

I29 I3I

J

LIST OF ILLISTUATIOXS.

2

Page. 134

Caught Within the Limits of Chicago Fox, Wolf or Coyote Trail

136

Fox, Wolf or Coyote on the Run

13G

Muslether

•

season.

There are many thousands of trappers scattered from the Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic Ocean and from the Pacific to tlie Atlantic that make hundreds of dollars each year with Steel Traps. There is also a vast number who trap only a few weeks each season. This includes boys and faruu^rs after the busy season. The actual number engaged in trapping is not known. Neither is the actual value of the raw fur catch, but it is thought to exceed 110,000,000 yearly. Is it any wonder then that so njany want to know more about Steel Traps and

Trapping? Considerable of the information herein in regard to traps, scent, de-

IXTUODUCTIUX.

i\j

coy, etc., is j^atluM-ctl fi-om old

experienced

ti'ai)])ei's

from

all

and

parts

America as well as from tlu^ manufacturers, Oneida Conimunity Ltd., so that readers can rely upon tlie information imof

i»reat tra])

l)arted in this

hook as

heinii' trnst-

worthy. Some hooks, pnri)ortinii; to he of yalne to hunters and trapl)ers, are written l)y men who haye neyer followed a line of traps or heen in close touch with trappers. The author of this work has heen engaged for many years in trapping and collecting furs and has come into close contact with many of the leading trappers of the country.

Steel Traps are far superior to

Snares or Deadfalls from the fact that they can he used for hoth land and water trapping while Snai-es and Deadfalls are adapted to Land TrapjDing only. A.

I\.

Harding.

CHAPTER

I.

SEWELL XKWHOUSi:. 1{.

SEWELL XEWHOU8E,

inventor of tlie i.

ii

iiiut worse than useless. Certain mixtures of pig iron are usebed Jaw T

I think this an excellent trap to use in very cold weather." ''Yes, these otter trajxs are ipiite heavy. No. o^ Newhouse, but are sure to hold," \\rites a New England tra])]H'r who is being accompanied by a yonng trap])er. "'You asked me what the raise plate was for; it is for the otter to hit as he passes over, as you see he is very short legged,

Trap''.

PitorER SizKs.

47

on jaws answer other jjiirposes, as yon will see Avhen yon set them. These otter and hear tra]»s are allrijiht and the animal that steps on the pan Avill stay or leave a foot. We hav(» 9 otter and 4 bear traps. Let ns look at fox traps. We have 25 "jnmpers", No. 2-^ these are riiiht for dry sets. Here are 25 No. 3 Newlionse for water sets. No. 2 Newhouse is jnst rii^ht for eoon and fisher." Trappers in statin^- the size traps that they use for a certain animal show quite a difference. Mild the plate sets liijiher lliaii the teeth

of Irap,

and

it

will

;

Some use a No. 1 Newhouse for coon while others use the No. 2 and as this is a double spring', the holdinci: power is fully three times as much as the No. 1. In the Northern states where the coon urows much larger than in the South and Southwest, In the South the No. 2 Newhouse is the trap. the No. 1| Newhouse is a i>ood mink trap as is also the No. 1^ Victor and No. 2 Oneidi Jump. The proper size trap to use for a certain aniIf the mal, varies under different conditions. trapper is reasonably certain that no other species of animal than the one trapped for frequents the place then the best size for the animal bein£>- set for is the trap to use.

On the other hand, should the tra])per have cut some traps for skunk, which need not be

48

Steei. Trats.

larger than No. 1 of the best or Newhoiise variety, and any of the dens are visited by fox a If trapping for rats hirger trap shoidd be used. and vou come to "rat signs" and also where

MIXK, TRAPPED

L'Xi)I:R

AX

Oi.n ROOT.

there are coon and mink signs, a trap large to hold either should be set. If blind or trail sets ate made, it is well to have the trap sufficiently strong for the largest

enough

Proper animal

Sizes.

49

Often different animals use the path leading fi'om one den to another or to a. log across a stream, etc. Elsewhere a complete description of the var-

same

ious

using-

it.

trail or

makes and

sizes of traps to use is given

and

also full instructions about setting, fastening,

This embraces the view of the manufacthe trapper and of the author who has had years of experience and should be of great value to inexperienced users of Steel Traps. etc.

ture,

CHAPTEK NEWHOUSe

N

VI.

TRAPS.

tlie first Newlionse were made. At that early date only a few of the smaller sizes were mainifactiired but these have been addee same as No. 2| of 5^ inches.

NO.

211,

WITHOUT TEETH.

hut is without teeth or IJaised Plate as some trappers i)refer it in this style. No. 31^ Newhouse Trap is also a single spring being same as No. 34 but without Teeth or KaisiHl Plate. Spread of jaws 6| inches. These traps, Nos. 21^ and 31|, are the largest smooth jaw, single spring sizes that are made. Professional trappers will find them especially valuable when on a long trapping line, as they are more compact and easier to secrete than double spring traps. The springs on these traps are made extra heavy. The No. 21^ is practically a single spring No. 3 and the No. 31| a single spring No. 4.

58

Steel Traps.

These traps are used for such animals as otter, beaver, wolf, wolverine, fisher and have been

known

to catch and hold ^fountain Lion. This trap is known as No. 14 and has a spread of jaws of 6^ inches. This trap is the same in size as No. 4 Wolf but has heavier and

OFFSET JAW UEAXER TRAP.

springs and offset jaws, which allow the springs to raise higher when the animal's legis in the trap, and it is furnished with teeth sutticieutly clOvSe to i)revent the animal from pulling its foot out. The weight of this style stiffer

about 3^ pounds each. This trap is known as "Detachable Clutch Trap." The trap can be used with or without it. It is made in two sizes Nos. 23 and 24. No. 23 known as the "Otter Clutch" has a spread of jaws of 5^ inches; No. 24 known as the "Beaver Clutch'' has a spread of jaws of Q^ inches. is

Newhousk

Tuats.

59

DETACHABLE CLUTCH TRAP

kDOwn as the No. 4| or ^'NewIt was put on the lioiise Si)ecial Wolf Tra])/' niarlvet to liieet the demands of trappers for This trap

is

NEWHOUSI-: SPECL\L

a

new model

of the

WOLF

Newhonse

TRAP.

Ti-ap especiali}'

designed for eai)tnrinii the hirge tindiei- wolves and mountain lions of the stock raising sections of the West.

Steel Traps.

60 This trap

lias

a spread of jaws of 8

made

and

iiiclies.

provided with a pronged ''drag," a heavy snap, an extra It is substantially

tliruout

is

heavy steel swivel and a chain, five feet long, warranted to hold 2,00.) pounds. Th!s traj) complete with cliain and "drag" weighs about 9

pounds. This trap

known as No. 50, spread of jaws intended for catching suuill sized In design it is exactlv like the stand-

9 inches. bears.

is

It is

SaiALL BEAR TRAP.

ard No. 5 Bear Trap, only that the parts are somewhat smaller. Weight, 11 1 pounds This trap is also used for catching Mouneach. all

tain Lion.

This trap is known as No. 1.50, spread of It is similar to No. .50, exjaws, 9 inches. cepting that the jaws are offset, making a space This allows the five-eights inch between them. springs to come up higher when the bear's foot is in the trap and thus secure a better grip. The chance of breaking the bones in the foot are also lessened. Weight, 11] pounds each.

NeWHOUSE

TllAPS.

61

SMALL BEAR TRAP WITH OFFSET JAWS. Bear. This trap is Imown as No. 5 or Black of Weight inches. The spread of jaws is llf

STANDARD BEAR TRAP. very trap 19 pounds. It is furnished with a chain. cable strong heavy and Bear trappers whether in the Canadian or Wilds, the Swamps of the Southern States the Rocky or Appalachian :\rountains, They speak of the Ko. 5 as the Standard Trap. Black the catching are used principally for

among

Bear. as No. 15, spread of jaws certain trapllf inches. To meet the views of manupers whose judgment is respected, the

This trap

is

known

Steel Traps.

62 factiii-ers

trap,

designed a style of jaw for the No. 5 offset of f of an inch so as to

making an

REGULAR BEAR TRAP WITH OFFSET JAWS. allow the springs to come up higher when the is in the trap. This gives the spring This trap weighs about 19 a better grip. pounds. This is known as the No. 6 or Grizzly Bear Trap and has a spread of jaws of IG inches. bear's leg

GRIZZLY BEAR TRAP. It weighs complete, 42 pounds. This is the strongest trap made. The manufacturers say

Newhousk

TkaI'S.

63

they' have never heard of ajiythinjij gcttin*'' out it when onee eauglit. It is often ealh^l the "Great Bear TaiiKM-." This traj) is also nsed in Asia and Africa

of

and tigers. In fact the trap any animal with the exception of the elephant and it will hold even that animal exfor catchinjj;- lions

will hold

cepting possibly the larger ones. This cnt illustrates Bear Trap Chain Clevis and Bolt, intended as a substitute for the ring on the end of the trap chain, when desired.

BEAR TRAP CHAIN CLEVIS.

With this clevis a loop can be made around any small log or tree without the trouble of cutting to fit the ring. The chain is made five feet long suitable for any clog and the prices of bear traps fitted with it are the same as with the regular short chain and ring.

Steel Traps.

64 There

is

danger attached to setting the large

traps when alone diflficiilt,

in addition to its being rather especially in cold weather, when the

fingers are

stiff.

Should the trapper be in a

more difficult, shown) applied to each spring clamp A (as will, by a few turns of the thumb-screws, bend the springs to their places, so that the pan may

boat the setting

is still

STEEL TRAP SETTIXG CLAMP.

be adjusted without difficulty. No. 4 clamp can be used on any trap smaller than No. 4|. No. 5 and 6 are strong clamps, carefully made and especially adapted to setting the large traps Nos. They do away with 4^, 50, 150, 5, 15 and 6. the inconvenience and dangerous use of levers. With clamps a trapper can easily and safely set These clamps also come these powerful traps. handy about the camp for other purposes.

CHAPTER

VII.

DOUBLE AND WEB JAW TRAPS. 'O trapper should go into the woods without providing himself with an outfit of traps to

meet any of the

varying emergencies that are likely to arise. For instance, along a deep stream it is generally easy to arrange a common trap so that by drowning the animal it will answer every purpose, but in a very small or shallow stream this is sometimes a difficult thing to accomplish. In such a case if the trapper has provided himself with a Webbed or Double Jawed Trap his chances of finding the game awaiting him on his return will be greatly increased.

For a dry land set, especially on skunk, the Double Jaw will be found very effective. The fact that it catches ver\^ high up and also entirely prevents self-amputation is greatly in its favor.

For foxes, which are often taken by the dry land method, the Double Jawed of a size corresponding to the regular No. 1^ is getting to be a very popular trap. 5

65

Sti;i:l

G()

Tkai's.

So, as we said before, each trapper, tlio relying mainly on the old and well tried lines,

should provide himself with a few of these odd styles and thus add greatly to his versatility of resources, that he may compete successfully with the ever increasing cunning of the many fourfooted fur bearers of stream and forest.

Trappers for years have contended that certain animals would gnaw out of traps, especiallj' where the bone was broken by the jaws and the flesh

had become numb from the pressure or from

cold.

It is known that skunks especially will gnaw at that portion of the foot or leg below jaws of

trap.

Where trappers have a long

and cannot

visit

line of traps

them every day they thus

lose

number of animals. The Webbed and Double Jaw prevent the gnawing out from the fact that the animal can only gnaw to the lower jaw or web and is not

a

able to get at the flesh between the jaws or under the web. -

Another animal that these traps are especiadapted for is the muskrat. This animaFs

ally

legs especially the front ones, are very tender

(both bone and flesh). A trap that breaks the bone, (unless the animal is soon drowned) may escape by the flesh of the leg twisting off in its

Double and endeavors to oft"

tlieir feet

This, the

c^ot

as

AA'eb

free.

Jaw

Tuaps.

iNIuskrats

67

do not gna^v

some suppose.

Webbed Jaw, known

spread of Jaws of fonr

KG. M,

inelies.

as Xo. 81 has is one of the

This

OR WElIDIiU JAW TRAP.

Newhouse makes and corresponds

in size to the regular No. 1. Newhouse. If trappers will observe the cross section of the jaws, as illustrated at the left, it is plain the animal can onlv gnaw oft' its leg at a point tjuite a distance below tlie meeting edges of the jaws. The flesh above the jaws as well as below will swell making it impossible for the animal to pull the leg stump out of the trap.

Steel Traps.

68

Double Jaw, is manufactured in namely, 91 Avith spread of jaws of 5^ Xo. dl^ with spread of jnws of 6|

This, the

two

sizes

inches;

;

XO.

01,

OR DOUBLE TAW TRAP.

The No. 91 correspondent in size to the regular No. 1 Newhouse, while the No. 91| corresponds to the regular No. 1| Newhouse with the exception of the jaws. The Doubie Jaw traps are so constructed that they catch the animal high up on the leg. It is no uncommon occurrence for the trapper to find mink and other small animals dead when caught in this trap by the fore foot. It is supposed that the circulation of blood thus retarded stops the action of the heart. inches.

Double and

^^lA',

Jaw

Tkaps.

69

set the same as other steel and directions given elsewhere apply to

These traps are traps,

these as well.

While the Webbed and Double Jaw traps were little known prior to 1905, trappers have been quick to see the advantage derived from using them. The Double Jaw has taken even better than the Webbed Jaw. The manufacturers had expected skunk trappers largely to be the buyers and this would include roughly speaking the section east of the

Rocky Mountains, south of Manitoba and Quebec and north of the States bordering on the Gulf of Mexico. But the demand sprung up from all parts of America. This shows that trappers are finding these traps good ones for other animals than skunks and muskrats for which they were especially designed. The fact that trappers found out about these traps so quickly is due largely to that up-to-date trappers' magazine Hunter-Trader-Trapper, published at Columbus, Ohio, and which reaches trappers in all parts of America. The Oneida Community, Ltd., Oneida, X. Y., manufacturers of these traps were and are liberal users of advertising space in the Hunter-Trader-Trapper to let trappers know of improvements in the trap line that are of value to them.

—

70

Steel Traps.

Double and Web Jaw Traps.

71

yon have never tried any of the No. 81, Webbed Jaw, or Nos. 91 or 91i-, the Double Jaw, we feel sure that you are not familiar with traps that will increase your catch. We believe that all trappers should have at least a few of these traps. If

wliich is the

CHAPTER VICTOR AND

HAWLEY

VIII. A:

XORTON TRAPS.

N

the Victor is a good trap cousi tiering the cheap price at which it i;> sold and as the nianufactnrers say: "Is the most popular trap in the world." While professional trappers ms ^^" largely the Xewhouse, yet in thickly settled sections and where trappers are constantly bothered by trap "lifters," the Victor is much used. While the trap is sold at a A^ery low price, yet it is the best trap manufactured in the regular or long spring trap, with the exception of Newhouse, or H. & N. The Victor is manufactured in six sizes and each is adapted to the following use No. 0, rat or gopher; No. 1, muskrat; No. 1^, mink; No. No. 3, otter No. 4, beaver. The Nos. 0, 2, fox 1 and 1| are single spring; Nos. 2, 3 and 4, :

;

;

The illustration showing No. 1 repredouble. and 1| as they are different sents also Nos. only in size. The illustration showing No. 4 rej)resents Nos. 2 and 3 also as they are different

only in

size.

These traps are not so strong in any part as 72

Victor and

Hawley & Norton

Traps.

73

the Xewlioiise and trappers f-lioiild bear this iu mind when settinu- for the various animals.

NO.

1,

VICTOR TRAP.

The Xo, 1| known as the mink trap is also a splendid mnskrat trap, having greater spread of jaws than the X'o. 1 and being- heavier than the Xo. 1 is just right to catch and drown rats. The X'os. 2, 3 and 4 are all double spring and made for fox, otter and beaver and while trappers catch large numbers of these animals in Victor traps, yet the more experienced ones prefer the Xewhouse traps even at the advanced price.

The Victor is used largely for taking the smaller fur bearers. It is sold in large quantities in all parts of the United States and Canada.

The Hawley & Xorton

is

made only

in six

Steel Traps.

74 sizes:

and

4,

Nos. 0, 1 and 1| single spring; Nos. double spring.

NO.

4.

2, 3.

\ICTOR TRAP.

A lighter grade of stock is used in manufacturing these traps so that they can be made somewhat cheaper than the Xewhouse and altho not as strong, thev are a good reliable trap.

CHAPTER JUMP

IX.

TUAl'S,

HIJ.E the Jump Trap has been ill use iu the Eastern part of the United States for upwards of fifty years, principalh^ in the New Enghind and Sea Coast States, the use of these

traps in try did not

all

parts of the coun-

become general until a few

The trap derives

j^ears ago.

name "•Jump" from so arranged that when

the the trap is touched off or sprung by an animal or otherwise, it "Jumps", thus catching the animal high up on the leg. Trappers that have not its

fact that the spring is

used these traps express doubts of their "Jumping" and catching high on the animal's leg, but hundreds of letters received by the manufacturers from trappers and also published in the Hunter-Trader-Trapper prove that they do

"Jump." The manufacturers claim these points in their favor. They are somewhat lighter than the regular form of double spring traps and the trapper going far into the woods can carry a greater number; they set much flatter; can be set in 75

Steel Traps.

76

smaller space; springs are out of the way as no spring extends beyond the jaws; pans are large so that no animal .can step between the jaAVS without springing the tra]). The traps are set much the same as other steel traps. The B. & L, trap is manufactured in six sizes, viz; Nos, 0, 1 and 2, single spring; Nos. 2^, 3 and 4 double spring. Some 3'ears ago the Oneida Community, Ltd.^ Oneida, N. Y., began manufacturing a "Jump'' trap which is known as the "Oneida Jump''. This trap has a new stjde of jaws. The old style was made of thin steel whereas these have full, wide-faced jaws, so that the chances of breaking the bone in the leg are lessened. This trap has a chain attachment, fastening at the end of the jaw opposite the spring, so that when the animal is caught and struggles to get free the foot is only gripped the tighter. The trapper, however, can fasten the chain on the end of the crossbar, opposite dog, as there is a hole drilled there for that purpose.

The "Oneida Jump"

is

manufactured

in

nim

This illustration shows a No. 1. It is a single spring as are also No. and 2 the other sizes have double springs. These sizes, No. to No. 4, are adapted to catching the various animals with the exception sizes.

;

Jump

NO.

NO.

1,

4,

Traps.

ONEIDA JUMP.

ONEIDA JUMP.

77

Steel Traps.

78

of timber wolves and bears, altho the larsjer sizes are used for taking the coyote and small wolf. The sizes adapted for the various animals are: No, 0, rat and gopher; No. 1, muskrat; Xo, 2, mink; Xo. 2^, coon or skunk; No. 12^, same as 2^, with teeth; X^o. 3, fox or otter; No. 13, same as Xo. 3, with teeth; X'o. 4, otter or wild eat Xo. 14, same as Xo. 4, with teeth. The X'o. 2 is a splendid mink trap from the fact that it takes little room and can be set in many places where the end spring cannot be ]>laced to advantage. The Xo. 2 for mink and the Xo. 2^ for coon are much used at log sets as they lie so flat that but little cutting is re;

quired.

The Xo. 2

is

also

coming into use as a marten and notched tree sets.

trajj especially for log

The arrangement of the springs is such that the ends only extend about an inch beyond the jaws so that the double spring sizes even, do not take nearly as much room to set as the regular or end spring trap. It makes no- difference what kind of a set is to be made water, land or snow, the fact that this make of trap takes but little room and lies very flat, should not be lost sight of. This sometimes is quite an advantage. The most successful trappers are those who use some of the various styles of traps for there

—

Jump

Traps.

A "JUMP" TRAP TRAPPER.

79

80

Steel Traps.

are certain sets where each can be used to the best advantage. The "Jump Traps" are moderate priced and being- light and strong for their size, trappers are taking to them, finding that for certain sets they have no equal. No trapper should start out for the season without some "Jumps."

CHAPTER

X.

TREE TRAPS.

XPEKIENCED

trappers fully appreciate the importance of having a trap that when the animal is caught, it is caught to stay, and instantly killed instead of being held a captiye hj the foot or leg.

Many fully realize the importance trap that will accomplish this, and haye found many good points in the Tree Trap, ^lost practical trappers know that one of the most successful ways to set steel traps for many kinds of animals, is to suspend the bait about two feet oyer the trap, compelling the animal to step on the pan of the trap in order to get at it. This may be yery good, but in case of a heayy snow fall, a set of this kind means that your trap is snowed under, and you not only experience great difficultj^ in locating your trap, but often are unable to do so at all until spring, or when the snow disappears. In order that readers may fully understand how the Tree Trap is used, two sketches are shown. One showing the trap set, with a mink approaching; the other one having caught Mr. Coon, and killed him instantly, not damaging the of a

6

human

81

Stkkl Tuaps.

82

This trap can be securely nailed to a tree, stake, and should he at least two feet from the ground, though always in sight and fur.

stump or

THE TREE TRAP.

easy to get to. In ease of deep snow all you have to do is to bend the nails around, loosening the trap and renail it a few feet higher up.

Hoir

/

to ^cf.

a den or runway. Leave the trap set with the safety hook holding it (don't spring the trap unless nailed securely), place against the tree, two or three feet from the ground mark the distance between the lower notches in the base of trap on the tree. Then drive two nails (six or eightIf possible find a suitable tree over

close to a

;

Tree Traps. penny

83

will do)

leaving enough of the nail head two bottom notches will hook over the nail heads tightly, then drive the nails in the two upper notches as far as they will go. This so the

will fasten the base of the trap tightly to the

which is important. Next bait the hook; seeing that the bait is secure; some tie it on with a string or thread. Now release the safety hook and your trap is ready. Some trappers prefer to throw some dead grass, leaves or boughs on top of the trap, tree,

which help to conceal it, this is a good idea. piece of a rabbit, squirrel, bird or chicken makes a splendid bait. Fish is good for mink.

A

One great advantage of Tree Trap over many other traps is that when it catches the animal, it not only holds, but kills it. While traps sliould be looked after every other day in good trapping weather; with the Tree Trap twice a week will do without the game escaping, as is often the case with common steel traps, but you cannot afford to take chances. Of course, in very warnv weather, traps should be looked at more freOn the other hand, during very severe weather, the trapper need not make the rounds more than once a week. This is important to the trapper who has a long line of traps out. Trappers should by all means have some Tree quently.

Steel Traps.

84

Traps among tlieir outfit, iu fact, as alreadj^ men.tioucd, the most successful trappers have a supply of all kinds of traps.

TREE TRAP SET AND ANIMAL APPROACHING.

ANIMAL KILLED

IN

TREE TRAP.

The Tree Trap does not weigh as much as a same size animals, and when set secured by safety hook, they steel trap required to catch the

are compact

;

occupying very

little space.

These

TREE Traps.

85

traps are made by the Auiinal Traj) Co., Lititz, Pa., and are liii'lily recommended for marten. Tree Traps are manufaetnred in four sizes adapted to eatcliing the foHowing animals: No. the smallest size, for weazel; No. 1, for mink, marten, and civet; No. 2, for sknnk and opossum No. 3, for coon, fisher and wild cat. This trap can be used to splendid advantage durinii' deep snows as it can easily be set against the side of a tree at any height the trapper desires, thus proving what has been said before, that the most successful trapper has some of all kinds of traps. The greatest field for the Tree Trap is the North, yet trappers in the Central and Southern States are already using them to a considerable extent for coon and opossum; also for skunk ;

and mink.

CHAPTEK XL STOP THIEF.

TOP THIEF TRAPS

are manufactured by the Animal Trap Co. A great deal has been said for and against this trap, but like all trai)s, one must know how to use lem. Trappers that have taken the ouble to learn how to set them rcA great manv l)ort good results.

condemn them

that were (]nick to praise them highly.

at first

now

The manufacturers say the No. 1 is for squirNo. 2, for mink and marten; No. 3, for skunk and opossum No. 3^ for fox and raccoon No. 4, for wolves. But we think the larger sizes sh TiiiKF.

87

water. No fastoniiii; is needed if there is no Avater near. I'ind where tlie raccoon, skunk, civet cat, oppossiim, etc., frequent and set the trap in the same way as for mink. Bait with

STOP THIEF TRAP.

chicken and the like. Oil the working parts of trap to prevent rust. The Stop Thief Trap is thought very highly of by some trappers for use in a peculiar situation and like the New Tree Trap, tho not as yet well known, it is likely to prove a very effective machine in the hands of men who know how to use it. I procure a crotched stick, writes a Pennsylvania trapper, the prongs of which are about 1^ to 1-|- inches in diameter and of sufficient spread to fit the trap with which they are to be used. bird,

I send a drawing which will make it plainer than a page of description. The best way of set-

Steel Traps.

88

ting a trap thus equipped will readily suggest itself according to the place selected.

METHOD OF SETTING STOP

When

TIlIEl'

TRAP

setting at a hole which the animal is

wood part or crotch may be placed next the hole or ground and there will not be much of the iron of the trap exposed to the animal as it comes out. Or, if setting where the animal is expected to come and enter the hole, the trap would be best placed with the wood out. With the latter set one would have to be careful to place the trap so that nothing would interfere with the working. Traps thus rigged will, of course, weigh more than the bare trap and are more bulky and cumbersome, but where one is trapping in a timbered country the crotch need not be cut until upon

known

to be in, the

Stop Thief. the grouud where where timber

it is

to be used, or if in

89 a

sec-

could be placed beforehand where it is to be used, just as one would do with stakes, rocks, drags, or clogs, spring poles and the like, when setting steel jaw traps. Dry timber could be used instead of green which would lighten materially. However, I prefer the heavier, as I think it holds the trap more firmly Small in place, thus requiring less fastening. v.'ire is best to fasten the trap to the crotch as mice and squirrels will cut twine. While I feel that the Stop Thief will never begin to equal any steel jaw trap, I think there are times when it may be used to advantage, and I expect to try mine again the coming season and expect to do better with them than last seation

son.

is scarce,

CHAPTER

XII.

WIDE SPREADING JAWS.

CCASIONALLY trappers

I see in

advocating

a

H-T-T, large

sin-eading trap, writes an exl)erieneed

and some even go

Canadian

trapper,

so far as to invitped the bone like a pipe shank. AVith his twisting and leaping there only remained a strip of skin and one tendon that kept I

him prisoner. For mink

I

have found a No.

trap,

fully set with proper precaution, is as

if

care-

good and

lucky as a No. 1 or 1| trap, as some trappers advocate. I used a bunch on a considerable sized lake last fall. The lake had numerous small creeks and rivers falling into it. At the junc-

with the lake I set my traps. No. selected on account of their lightness. As there was a long carry to get to the lake from a traveled route and added to the canoe, my gun, blanket and provisions, the traps tion of these

They were

all

were somewhat of a consideration, and I therefore took the one of less weight. I made two visits to the lake before it froze and got twenty mink, one marten and a female fisher. When I made a Avater set I saw that the bank outside went down pretty bold and I always tied a stone to the trap and thus insured the animal

Wide Spreading Jaws.

93

AVliere I set oil laud without fail I attached the chain to a tossing pole, thereby iireventing the fur being damaged by mice or tlie animal being eaten by some other. Some may (|uestion the possibility of such small traps ])eiug for any length of time in order as a water set, but I must explain. The lake was of considerable size and the season the latter part of October. Such a lake at that season of the year is- not subject to any fluctuations in the height of water. I may say in conclusion about this particular sized trai3 that on that trapping tour I only lost one mink, I found the traj) sprung with a single Tlie trap had been a dry set toe in the jaws. one, and by reading the signs I found some snow had melted and dripped from an overhanging branch on to the junctions of the jaws. This had frozen (the trap being in the Siiade) and prevented its usual activity. As a consequence it only caught on as the mink was in the act of

(Irowniiif;-,

lifting his foot, so I

was

satisfied

it

was the

cir-

cumstances and not the fault of the trap that caused the missing of this mink. Another undesirable point about any trap is to have the springs too powerful for its intended use. One only wants a trap's jaws to close up sudden enough and to hold what it catches secure against any possibility of the animal withdrawing its foot. Once you have this it's all

Steel Traps.

94

required or necessary. A trap with springs with a strength out of reason is awkward and vexatious to open, and when the animal is caught goes on with its continued pressure until the jaws of their own action almost sever the paw or leg, and the animal with very little struggling finishing the ami)utatin. I knew an Indian once who had a bear trap which was not much larger in spread than a Xo. 4 trap. An ordinary man by placing a foot on each spring could set it, and yet that trap was his most reliable one. He had others too, but he took his "Davy" on that. It acted like that celebrated motto, "What we have, we hold." This trap was made from liis own directions, and he had the jaws at their inner edge threequarters of an inch thick and bevelled off to a quarter of an inch at the outer sides. As he aptly put it "I want the trap to hold the bear until I go there and shoot it, not to chop off its that's

—

foot."

Another point about a bear trap that I consider could be^remedied with advantage to the trapper, is to have the ordinary chains lengthened by a few links. It is not always possible to place the drag stick close up to the open trap, but where the chain is longer no difficulty would be found. A few more links would add very little to the weight or cost.

'^^ll)l•:

Spukaih.ng Jaws.

95

Steel Traps.

96

To a lone trapper setting bear traps miles away from any human beings, it's a tricky and I consider a man so situated job. should, as a precaution, carry one of those patent clamps for depressing tlie springs, in his pocket. I am aware some do not use them, as they consider them too slow, preferring a couple of short levers jammed under a root and pressed down with the knees while the hands open the jaws and j)lace the trigger. Otliers use a piece of stout cord to tie down one spring, while with their weight on the other the jaws fall apart. But accidents will happen to the most careful persons; by some iuadvertance he might get caught by the hand or thoughtlessly step into it, and if he did not perish would have considerable

dangerous

difficulty in getting out, while

with a cool head

and a clamp within reach he could promptly free himself. in a bear trap

cumbed

Thee

to his

I

knew one man who

lost his life

and another who had almost sucsuffering when found and released.

are three things with a trapper's

was always extremely

life

that

and careful with I a bark canoe, a bear trap, and a gun. handled these for forty years but never fooled I

—

polite

with them.

Had the Indian mentioned used the celebrated Newhouse traps, we feel sure that he would have found no cause to complain. While

Wide Spreading Jaws.

97

some trappers the springs iray sometimes appear to be too stiff, yet the face of the jaws are wide and as the manufacturers are always in correspondence with bear and other trappers, there is no question but that they know and are now manufacturing what meets the views of the majority of trappers. We believe that of some sizes they are making the face of the jaws even wider than formerly. The Newhouse bear traps are furnished with bear chain, clevis and bolt, illustrated and described under Newhouse Traps, but briefly described here. This chain is five feet long and with clevis can be fastened around any log which the trapper will want to use. One thing must be born in mind, viz That when traps are set, they are covered, and should to

:

severe weather follow, freezing this covering, it requires a stiff spring to throw the jaws together quickly. Our belief is that more large animals escape from traps too weak than from the too strong ones. Yet there are times, no doubt, when had the spring been weaker and the face of the jaws wider, the results would have been fully as satisfactory.

CHAPTEK

XIII.

CARING FOR

TRA1>S.

»OTE

should

be

examined carefully just

be-

that

traps

fore being set to see will

work properly.

if they,

New

traps should be thoroughly greased with almost any kind of grease that has no salt in it. Salt Avill rust traps.

It

is

to

guard

against rust as much as anything else that you should grease your traps, for in that condition they are not so apt to give good service. If you have a supply of traps that are badly^ rusted, kerosene poured over them and let stand for a few hours will tend to remove the rust. After you have cleaned all of the r:ist o"" possible, grease, the trap carefully and thoroughly with some good fresh grease, such as lard or Good oil will answer if the fat of some animal. you can not get the animal fat. Trappers cnn usually get an animal or two and fry the fat from it. This is an easy task and with this grease your traps. If this is done with old traps at the close of the season it will help preserve 98

Caring for Traps

100

Steel Traps.

tbem. It is a good idea, also just before trapping begins. With new traps it is much more important that thev be greased before setting as they will badly rust if not tliiis treated; old traps that have been greased a number of times can be neglected rather than the new ones. If possible it is best to attend to this several days before the traps are set, so that a part of the grease will be dried in, or evaporated so that in setting there will not be so much to get on your hands, clothes, etc. In this connection it will not be amiss to say that traps should be carefully gone over before they are set, to see that every part is in working order. There may be broken links in the chain, or other defects. The swivel may be rusty and will not turn and the first animal caught is apt to break the chain. Many times have trappers gone to their traps only to find a part of the chain remaining as some animal had broken it and escaped. All traps should be very carefully gone over and mended, otherwise you may not only loose the trap but a valuable pelt as well. What is best to apply to prevent their rusting? writes a number of trappers. Almost any oil will answer, but perhaps animal fat is best and can be obtained by trappers

Caring fok Traps. easily.

Mai^y

trai)i)ers

jn-efer

101 to

liave

their

traps somewliat rnsty, or at least want the newness worn off. It is not a bad idea to smear traps in the blood of rabbits or birds. To clean your traps, boil thciii in ashes and water, rinse clean in hot water, then dip in hot water with melted beeswax floating?. Kaise them slowly out of this so as to coat every part. Hang uj) to drain and dry and your traps are ready. In what condition are your traps for beginning a vigorous campaign have jou boiled them in soft maple bark or the husks of walnuts, to stain and eliminate the coating of rust, so that they will Avork well and be free of the ^- its springing when an animal steps on the treadle. A little wool or cotton placed under treadle often keeps the dirt from getting under. It pays to set traps well in fact too much pains cannot be taken. I often read of the disappointments of a trapper when visiting his line of marten traps to find ermine, squirrels, blue-jays and even mice caught in place of the animal he intended to

—

catch,

Now this is very vexatious, as the marten has departed for a district quite distant and is thus lost forever to him. An Indian or a regular trapper that knows his business always puts a spring twig under the pallet of his trap of sufficient strength to bear up the weight of these small fry and yet not too strong to prevent the larger animals from setting it off. In trapping for beaver and otter in open water we always use the spring to prevent mink and musquash from getting caught. Of course these are furbearers and proportionately valuable, yet there are times one does not wish to have them in the trap.

Even

a spring under used to prevent foxes, lynx, fishers and marten from springing it. This is doubly necessary in setting bear traps for the reason that when one has bear traps set the foregoing in setting bear traps

the pallet

is

Steel Tuaps.

124

animals are iiiiprime and consequently of next The spring for a No. 1 or a No. 1^ to no value. trap is made from a lower small branch of a balsam or tamarack tree. Why I say lower branches is because it is not so full of gum and sup])leness as the top branches, while not actuit is sufficiently so to impart a springally dry, ' effect.

WRONG posrnox

set.

about four inches in length One end is introduced into the eye of the spring and the other end is deflected over and under the trap pan. By movingit out towards the outer part of the pan a greater lesstrength and resistance can be obtained For sening by pushing it the contrary way. It is

broken

and freed

off

of needles.

—

How

TO Set.

125

beaver or otter traps wo usaally take the root of a small spruce or tamarack, and for a bear tra]), instead of putting one end into the eve of the spring, we cut a shorter and stouter piece and bend it over like this and it is placed under the pan; the two ejids are carefully flattened and squared off to prevent slipping. After a little practice a man becomes quite an expert as to the proper tension required and it is very rarely a real trapper catches anything but what the trap was set for. This article is written for the benefit of beginners in the profession of trapping and not as a reflection on the knowledge of "Old Pards." A splendid all around covering for trajjs wherever available (and I speak from experience) is hemlock fanlike tips, writes a New York state trapper. Use only the flat spreading ends with thin stems to blanket trap a single layer is enough for all practical purposes. This is the general purpose covering, suitable for all kinds of weather. The strong natural scent of the hemlock seems to inspire confidence, overcoming animal fear and caution. It neutralizes and makes harmless all unnatural scents so obnoxious to wild animals and prevents under pan ob-

—

struction.

During the snowj^ weather, roof over the trap with brush, hemlock boughs, bark or such, with

126

Steel Traps.

opeuings on all sides. Build the roof high and wide enough to sufficiently protect the traj) and covering from snow and sleet. A good trapi)er uses only good traps. I will describe a few of my sets and hope they .

be of value, writes a Rocky Mountain trapThe first will be a mink set and, like the rest, is best prepared during the summer, then by fhe time trapping begins the newsness is all

Avill

per.

gone.

Set No. 1 is easily uiade by bending a few green willows in the shape of the letter TI; stick ihem in a row six inches apart so the top of the bow will be four or five inches from the level. Cut some brush and pile on top and a stake or two driven in will keep it from going away in a freshet. This can be made in the Avater at a riffle or on the bank of the stream and you will be surprised to note the fine runway you have

made. Set No. 2 is on the same principle, but is of logs 8 inches in diameter and 5 or 6 feet It can be cut on the dotted lines for conlong. venience in placing l)ait. Set a No. 1^ or 2 trap at each end. This is as good as a hollow log. No. 3 is a marten shelf. Like cut, make by uailing a 2-incli stick thi-ee (»r three and a half feet long on each side of a tree and cover thht I would have a muskrat's hide badly torn and sometimes the rat barberonslj murdered and half eaten up. One writer says, take bait and scent and set a trap properly, then q:o a little farther on and set a trap without either bait or scent, and see which trap you catch a fox in first. *

Now we

*

notice that this writer brings in the

bait every time. bait,

*

and make

V^e are very

much

bait one of our

in favor of

most essential

points in trapping the fox. This writer says that those "no scent" men are the ones that say fox are afraid of human scent. For our part we do not claim anything of the kind on the contrary, we claim that it is the signs that we make that the fox is shy of. I see there are a great many talking about mink not being afraid of railroad irons and barb wire fences writes a Louisiana trapper. Well, I guess they are not, but some of them are afraid of human scent under certain conditions, while under some other conditions they are not. Find a place where they are liable to come, and tramp and tread around just like an unexperienced trapper would do, taking an old rusty or new trap, handling with naked hands and set either concealed or naked, stick a chunk of meat up over it on a stick, and then remove sticks and ;

Steel

198

TiiArs.

This will make stones making a disturbance. mink afiaid of human scent in that place. A great many are afraid of a bait stuck up on a there is humn scent around it, so I think a combination of these; namely, disturbances, human scent and the unnatural place to Yet they are find foc.d that scares them away. not all that way by any means. Now let some of these fellows who think animals are not afraid of human scent try to catch an otter that has been caught before and got away, and they will think differently. I caught one last winter, that had his front leg off within an inch of the shoulder. I also caught a coon that had both front legs off high up, and strange stick

if

is

it

to say this coon

was

fat

and

in

good condition.

He

wasn't a very large one, and his teeth were He must have looked funny badly worn off. walking around on his hind feet like a bear, that is the way he walked for I could tell by the tracks. I see a great deal of discussion about mink being afraid of human scent writes a prairie trapper. I think there is a difference between mink concerning this: some niink are afraid and others are not. Last winter I caught a mink in a trap but he

got away before I got there, and that mink aftev getting loose, followed the tracks I had made the

Human

Scent and Sign.

199

before for about a quarter of a mile up the river before he turued in (•b)se to the bauk. Now he didn't seem to be afraid of human scent. Again I have walked up to a mink path, carefully set and covered mj trap, and then carefully moi'iiiiiii,

walked away in my old tracks, but never a mink would I get, nor would the mink even go along that path any more. I have even walked up to a path when I had no traps with me and then walked away, and altho the path had been used every day l)efore, it was not used again for about nine or ten days. I once set a trap at the bottom of a muskrat slide without covering, and although I had walked all around there and my trap was not covered, I got a mink. I wish to say that mink are not afraid of human scent and in proof will tell a little experience I had with a mink while trapping for muskrat, writes a Massachusetts trapper. One night I came to one of my traps i^hich contained a muskrat that was partly eaten. I knew it was the work of a mink. Going on up the stream a short .distance I liad a mink, and T allowed that this mink would steal no more muskrats, but on investigating I discovered that this mink was coming down ^stream, while the one that had eaten the muskrat was going up, and after all I had not caught the thief.

200

Steel Traps.

Next night the same trap contained a muskand I determined to catch the mink. I took the rat out of the trap and fixed for Mr. Mink by setting a second trap about three feet from the first one. I then started to look at other traps and was not gone more than an hour, and on returning to these traps I found that I had already caught the mink, and it was a big one and very dark. If this mink had been afraid of human scent he would not have rerat partly- eaten

turned.

In regard to human scent it does seem to me that after a man has trapped for a number of years he ought to know something al)out it, writes a trapper of the Great Lake region. I do positively know that human scent will drive most animals away. I have been a great lover of taking the otter. Brother trappers, how many of you that have trapped the ottea', but what have found out that he can tell that you have been there if you are not very careful, and he is not very much sharper than mink or fisher. I do think that all animals can scent a human being. I have caught almost all kinds of furbearing animals this side of the Rockies, and I don't know it all yet, but I do know the nature of all the game I trapped, and that we must all know to make trapping pay. In regard to scents, will say that undoubtedly

Human

Scent and Skjn.

201

the most takiiiVatek Tkaiting.

261

cy at eyei'v early visit to make a level mark near each set, a\ hereby iu the evening when the trap is to be properly adjusted, the day's changes can Small streams, of be noticed with accnracy. course, fluctuate more than large rivers, the latter generally showing a steady increase in volume from the beginning of the break-up until the lake ice is all melted. There are many tributaries of large streams that one can easily jump across early in the morning, after a sharp frosty night, which are positively raging torrents at sundown. On streams with such wide variances in depth, trai)ping is almost impossible. At all events, a good deal rests on chance. One has to manage his trap with a large amount of guess work. Streams with a breadth of an acre or so move up and down with a greater degree of uniformity, and the trapper who pays close attention to the movements of the water and weather conditions can set his trap prett}' accurately for business. A river such as I have mentioned last, whose feeders are a considerable distance uj) stream, generally falls a third of what it rose during the daytime. Thus, if you find that since morning the level has risen nine inches it will be safe to set your trap six inches under water. By this calculation there would be three inches over the jaws at the lowest ebb next morning, the night before being cold and dry.

262

Steel

TiiArs.

I have eanM

Animal to Markkt.

319

elbow orenso; as fast as you iiict a strip cleaued of off tnru hide a little but do not flosli on edge

Steel Traps.

320

If possible take a bitch skniik for the first as flesli easier, and be sure there are no burrs or chunks of mud in the fur, or you will cut a hole the size of the burr. Now for the stretchers. In Fig. 2 is what I use; it is something of my own invention, and there is no patent on it.

they

It is made of any wood that will split straight, and the dimensions are as follows Pieces are 4 ft. long by If in. dressed smooth; pieces are 1^ X f in. will say for large skunks here they would be 10 in. and 4^ in. To frame you must soak or steam the long pieces; mitre the ends and fasten with 3d finishing nails clinched. Then place in position 1 in. from ends and fasten with two 6d finishing nails; place in position and pull up to 8 in. from nose and fasten now chamfer off edges and sandpaper smooth. :

;

:

I like this stretcher,

as

it

airs both sides of

and will dry them in half the time. Fig 3 shows manner of fastening pelt; on belly side it can be drawn down and fastened to tail pieces with sack needle and twine it is made of two or more poles fastened in the shape of a hoop. pelt

;

In shipping furs, bale tight; do not ship loose place mink and rat inside of skunk and ; other fur, and always place the toughest pelts on outside. By bailing tight you will avoid crinkling and they will not look mussy and will bring from 5 to 10 per cent. more. Now, brother trapin sack

Aximat> to .Makkkt.

1"'k().m

321

not pers, fleshinp: pelts, as I understand it, is deeper going merely takini-- the fat off, but in

FiG.

3

TAC«

TACK

TACK SKIN OX STRETCHER.

from the pelt so that if skunk, the stripe will show clear the full length and reducing the weight by half. On February

and taking the

21*

flesh clean

Steel Traps.

322

2nd I sliipped 15 skunk, all large; the lot only weighed 9 pounds including sack. When stretching skunk and otter skins, if the weather is warm, split the tails, open and tack flat. Split open half way all others that have fur tails. Open pelts can be stretched in hoops made of one or more poles an inch or so in diameter, and sewed in with a sack needle and heavy twine. In stretching do not get the pelt so wide that the fur looks thin, or so long and narrow that it looks as if a horse had been hitched to each end. Keep the natural shape of the animal as much as possible, dry in a cool, airy place inside, or on the north side of a building and away from fire. Baling here is where the expert trapper

—

shows his craft, and in baling you will see him wipe off all surplus fat and dirt and place the heavy pelts on the outside of his pack. The lighter furs, such as mink, marten, cat, etc., will be placed inside of the skins that are heavier. For

instance: From four to eight rats or mink, inside of a fox or skunk. He will place the head of one to the tail of another, the tails folded in.

He now ties a cord tightly around each end, placing them on a square of burlap, and with sack needle and twine draws up the sides as tight as he can then he folds in the ends and sews up snug. Furs thus packed reach the market in ;

Fkom Animal good shape, and not

sncli

crammed promiscuously In conclusion, boys,

323

to Mauki:t. as

tliej

would

if

into a sack. let

me

suggest a

maxim

HOOP STRETCHER. or two for your guidance: well handled furs always

"Take pride

in

"Prime caught and bring top prices."

your catch, no matter how small."

Steel Traps.

324

While tlie heading Animal to Market" it

of this chapter is is

"From

well Avhen shipping to

If request the dealer to grade and send value. If not satsatisfactory, write to send on check. isfactory, have dealer return furs. When shipping furs under these conditions see that no green skins are sent only properly

—

cured ones.

While some dealers offer to pay expressage ways we hardly think this fair and if no deal is made the dealer should pay the expressage one way and the shipper the other. The Hunter-Trader-Trapper, published a. '>oth

Columbus, Ohio, in the interests of hunters, trappers and dealers in raw furs contains a great deal of information that will be of value along the line of shipping furs as well as trapping

methods,

etc.

CHAPTEK XXXII. MISCELLANEOUS INFORM ATION.

How to Tan Hkiiis. GIVE below several successreceipts

ful ski us

but

and furs

if 3-0U

for

tauuiiij*-

of all kinds,

have never tanned

skins before I would advise

vou to make your first attempt on some skin oi' small value, writes an oia hunter and trapper. Kemove all tiesh from a skin before putting- thru the tanning process bv laying it over what is called a fleshing beam and scraping with a dull knife; the fleshing beam is nothing more than a l)eam with edges rounded and a log peeled of the bark will answer the purpose very well. First remove the liair from the hide by putting in 5 gallons of water, 2 gallons of slacked lime, 2 quarts of wood ashes and 3 ounces of soda. After the hair has bet-ome loose, try soaking in this mixture, remove it by scraping it off with a stick (be careful not to let it get on the hands, as it is very irritating to the skin) This .

325

Steel Traps.

326

receipt can be altered according to the number of hides Tou have to tan. The amount given here is enough for 2 or 3 hides ( such as goat, dog and animals of that size.) Next draw the lime from the skin by putting it in a bath composed of 5 gallons of water, 2 quarts of wheat bran, 4 ounces of acetic acid and 4 pound of salt. Finally put the skins in a mixture of 5 gallons of water, 1 pound of salt,

1^ pounds of gambia, and 5 ounces of acetic acid. Leave the skins in each process about three days, take them out often and pull and work them. When you think the skin is done, take it and put it on a stretcher like a coon stretcher, but of course altered to fit the skin you are tanning; stretch the skin tight but not too tight and put in the sun; at intervals of half an hour apply with a brush or rag mixtures number three until the skin will soak up no more. Do this about three times and then put tl:e skin in the shade or some cool place where there is

a free circulation of air to dry.

Lastly,

when

dry, oil flesh side of the skin lightly. This leather is the best you can get, but the that a trapper in the woods does not always have a drug store near to purchase the tanning material which is rather expensive, so I will give a few cheap methods also. if

tanned right

objections

is

]\risci;f,LA\i:per who spends the eutire trapping season far from civilization must know how to make a comfortable camp or he is likely to pay dearly for his lack of knowledge. Especially is this the case if his trapping is done in the far North where the winters are lona' and severe.

THE HOME SHANTY.

The trapper should have one good "home shanty" to be used as a base of supplies for storing furs, etc. He should also have small camps located along his lines at convenient distances so that he can spend the night with some comfort if he has gone too far to return to the home camp. The home camp is generally a substantial log

^IlSCKLI.AXKorS TXIOU.MATIOX. shack.

1(

329

sluMild he Icx-aU'd in a slieUcrcd spot,

on sonic little knoll or slightly eleground and as close to good fire wood and good drinking water as possible. The ])roi)er size of canii) depends on the number of l)ersons in the party. A shanty 10 x 12 feet inside If it is larger it is lai'ge enough for two persons. For a camp of will b(^ harder to keep warm. this size the logs should be cut 12 and 14 feet long so as to allow for the notching of the corners. Of course the logs should be straight and if

possible,

vated

s})ot

of

they should be as near the same thickness as possible.

Having selected a spot for the camp and cleaned away the brush, etc., commence by laying two of the 14 foot logs parallel with each other and about ten feet apart. Cut notches in the ends of these logs, cutting down about half the thickness of the logs and lay two of the 12 The next step is the foot logs in the notches. floor which should be made of straight poles about five or six inches thick and 11 or 12 feet long. They should be fitted down solidly on the two long logs and may be flattened on top with an axe, or with an adz after the camp is finished. Then fit in two more 14 foot logs which will hold the floor poles down solid. The door frame or boxing should be cut off square at the ends and butted up against the

Steel Traps.

330

frame and li«da(ellus of New York wishes to know somethinu luoic about eanips in the Avoods, or how to keep dry and Avarm in cold and wet weather, writes a Michigan trapper. This is how I build a camp along a trapper's trail I cut the logs about D feet long, cut them small enough so one man would be able to handle them. If cut from dry cedar or other light I lay the logs Avood, they can be of good size. up on three sides until the Avails are about 5^ feet high, then I procure two stakes about 8 or 9 feet long with a crotch on one end; the otlu^end I sharpen so it can be driAen in the ground outside the open end of the camp. There are also tAvo shorter stakes placed inside of the camp just opposite the outside ones and tied together at these top with a withe, AAire or piece of roi)e stakes are intended to hold the ends of the logs together, and also act as a support for the roof, I next place a Avhich is made shanty fashion. pole about 5 inches thick by 10 feet long across from one crotched stake to the other. Noav from

—

332

Steel Traps.

the back wall to the top hole I place scoops out of split logs hollowed out with axe.

are placed split side

A

made

They up aud another scoop placed

LIX1-:

SHAN TV.

over the

first two. Short pieces of logs are put in under the last outside scoops and every crack

is

mossed up

tight,

and a bunk placed across the

3IlSCELLA\i:()l'S

IXFOUMATIOX.

333

about a foot from the grouiid, and fire built By phiciuii' 2 crotehed stakes in the ground like the first pair about 5 feet from them, and placing a pole across the tops and then two short brace pieces between these two top poles. After this, straight poles ten feet long, about what one man can handle^ are taken and placed all around the outside or open end of camp. This prevents the smoke from whirling 'round the camp, and it goes up ('11(1

ill

the center of open side.

straiiiht.

Bee Hunting A BOOK OP HUNTERS.

VAI^trABI/:^ INFORMATION FOR BEE Tells How to I/lne Bees to Trees, Etc.

The following

is

Introduction

taken from, the Author''s to

BEE HUNTING

books on sports of various MANY kinds have been written, but outside of an occasional article in periodicals devoted to bee litera-

but little has been written on the subject of Bee Hunting. Therefore, I have tried In this volume Bee Hunting for Pleasure and Profit to give • work in compact form, the product of what I have learned along this line during the forty years in nature's school room. Brother, if in reading these pages, you find something that will be of value to you, something that will inculcate a desire for manly pastime ture,

—

and make your life brighter, then my aim will hare been reached: The book contains I.

13 chapters as follows

:

Bee Hnnting.

Early Spring Hunting. Bee Watering— How to Find Them. IV. Hunting Bces from Sumac. V. Hunting Bees from Buckwheat. VI. Fall Hunting:. VII. Improved Mode of Burning. VIII. Facts About I,ine of Flight. II.

III.

IX.

X. XI. XII. XIII.

Baits and Scents. Cutting the Tree and Transferring. Customs and Ownership of "Wild B««s. Benefactors and Their Inventions.

Bee Keeping

for Profit.

This book contains 80 pages, paper cover. Price, postpaid, only as cents.

A. R.

HARDING, 75

N. Ohio Avenue, Columbus,

Ohio

FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES A

Book of Practiaal Instruction on Breeding, Raiting; Handlins and Selling; Alio Their Uie and Fur Value

ALTIIOL'GH

the ferret imlustry is still in its infancy there is a town in Northern Ohio that has raised and sold more than a million dollars worth of ferrets during the past fifteen years. This village is often called "Ferretville" and an entire chapter is devoted to it, telling of the raiser in America as well as those are raising them there now. The ferret is a domesticated wild animal used to e.xterminate rats and for rabbit hunting. For rats they are much used in houses, barns, levees, outbuildings, walls, ships, boats, grain elevators, mills, stores or any place where there are rats. If riglitly used and handled there is no better or quicker way to rid a place of the pests. Where rabbits are doing an injury to fruit trees, etc., ferrets can be used to advantage. They are also used to some extent on the large western ground squirrel, gopher and prairie dogs. Success has also been had first

who

when using on mink, skunk, coon and other fur-bearing animals.

This book

tells

how

to

raise,

train

pages and 45 illustrations.

contains 214 as follows:

and

History

and use ferrets. Book There are 21 chapters,

XII Ferrets

Descrip-

and Skunk, Etc.

tion IT

III I\' \'

"Ferretville"

XIII

Hutches and Nests Barns and Sheds Feeding and Management

XVI

VI Bree

IX

X

XI

XV

'ing

VII Handling VIII

XIV

Small

and

XVII

Train-

ing Rats Common Brown Ferrets and Rats Ferrets and Rabbits Ferrets and Ground Squirrels, Gophers, Prairie Dogs

—

This book,

X\TII

XIX

XX

XXI

Mink,

Ferret Contrivances, (Muzzles, etc.) Letters From Raisers The Ferret in Belgium Ferret Raising in a

Way

Ferret Raising as a Business How to Sell Ferrets Ferrets as Fur Bearers Ferrets A to Z Diseases of Ferrets

—

FERRET FACTS AND FANCIES,

shows some

of the largest and most up-to-date ferret farms in America as well as hutches and pens of the small raisers from photographs.

This book bound

in cloth will

be

ssnt

postpaid to any address for

A. R. 7S

N.

fi(\f» v»V»C

HARDING

OHIO AVE.

-

COLUMBUS, OHIO

HUNTING DOGS Describes

Manner the Training, Handling,

a Practical

in

Treatment, Breeds, etc.. Best Adapted for Night Hunting, as well as Gun Dogs for Daylight Sport. .giMpjiiij.]

ijji

J,

wia^

i-jn^'t '^^

/mmm

€

,

p'''

''H

'

,

j 1

' !

I

I

1

H I S book contains 253 pages, x 7 45 illustrations showing the various breeds, hunting scenes, etc. The author in his introduction says: "As if hunting for profit, night hunting for either pleasure or gain and professional hunting generally had no importance, writers of books have contented themselves with dwelling on the study and presentation of mat.')

.inches.

I '

,

""

\

i

ters

^

j

^

\

1

[.j

••iBSBssssaBdi

cent,

Part One

—

Part

II

—

Chapter Selecting the

Dog

6. 7.

8. 9.

III

Part IV

the

men who

books."

—

— The

Dogs and

15.

I'eculiarities

16.

Practical Hints .Ailments of the Dog.

— Dog

Trailers vs. Tonguers.

Music.

to

Dogs. Wolf and Coyote Hunting Training — For Squirrels and Rabbits Training the Deer Hound Training — Specific Things to Teach

10.

Care and Breeding Breeding. Still

solely

Training Random Suggestions from Many Sources Breeding and Care of Dogs. 14. fireeding (Continued)

Part 17.

such

of

— Hunting

Chapter 1. Night Hunting 2. The Night Hunting Dog His .Ancestry 3. Training the Hunting Dog 4. Training the Coon Dog 5. Training for Skunk, Opossum and Mink

11. 12. 13.

relating

hunt for sport only. Even then the Fox Chase and Bird Hunting has been the burden of the greater per

-M

18. 19.

of

Lore.

The Dog on the Trap Line Sledge Dogs of the North

Hunting Dog Family.

.American Fo.x Hound 24. Scotch Collies, House and Beagle Dachshund Watch Dogs and Basset Hound 25. .\ Farmer Hunter His 22. Pointers and Setters Views Spaniels 2G. Descriptive Table of Tech23. Terriers Airedales nical Terms The contents show the scope of this book and if you are at all interested in hunting dogs, you should have this work. The book is made up not only from the author's observation and experience, but that of scores of successful night as well as daylight hunters. This book will not interest the field trial dog men but is for the real dog men who delight in chases that are genuine. Price, cloth-bound, postpaid, 60c. 20.

21.

The

—

—

A. R.

HARDING,

7.5

N. Ohio Avenue, Columbus, Ohio

SCIENCE OF TRAPPING Describes the Fur Bearing Anima's, Their Nature, Habits and Distribution, with Practical Methods of Their CapturCc

This book contains 245 pages, 5x7 inches, with more than many of which are full page of the various fur bearing animals, also several pages of tracks. The author, Mr. E. Kreps, in his introduction says: "In order to be successful, one must know the wild animals as a mother knows her child. He must also know and use the most practical

40 illustrations, ,

,

'

J

—

j

methods of trapping, and it is my object to give in this work, the most successful trapping methods known. These modes of trapping the fur bearing animals have for the most part been learned from actual experience in various parts of the country, but I also give the methods of other successful trappers, knowing them to be as good as my own. I am personally acquainted with some of the most expert trappers in North {J .;^__^ "' America, and have also followed the Indians over their trap lines, and in this way have learned many things which to the white man are not generally known." This book contains twenty-four chapters, as follows: '""

1.

2.

The The The The The The The The The The The The

Trapper's Art. Skunk.

13.

Mink. Weasel. Marten.

15. 16.

17.

The The The The The The The The The

Raccoon. Badger.

Opossum. Lynx.

Bay Lynx or Wild Cat. Cougar. Wolverine. Pocket Gopher.

Fisher. Otter.

18.

Beaver. Muskrat. Fox.

20. 21.

Wolf.

23.

Tracks and Signs. Handling Furs.

24.

Steel Traps.

19.

22.

Bear.

The chapter on pages

14.

— eleven

Rabbit.

TRACKS AND SIGNS

contains

sixteen

of description and five of illustrations. into detail, telling where the tracks

The author goes

and

signs of the various animals are most apt to be found. This with an accurate drawing of the footprints, makes the chapter on TRACKS SIGNS alone worth dollars to the young and inexperienced trapper, while the distribution, nature, hab-

AND

named

interesting — Scienceprove of Trapping.

A. R.

HARDING, 75

its,

etc.,

will

Price, postpaid. Cloth

to

all.

This book

is

rightly

Bound, 60 Cents

N. Ohio Avenue, Columbus, Ohio

Wolf and Coyote Trapping An

Up-to-date Wolf Hunter's Guide, Containing Successful Methods of Experienced "Wolfers" book gives careful and accurTHIS ate descriptions the wolf of

ies

halaits, how hunted and trapetc. It also describes and illustrates the tracks of these animals and tells of the lounties iti the various states of the Union and the provinces of Canada, tells how to obtain bounty. .Size of book, 5x7 inches, 252 pages, 21 chapters:

and their

ped,

TRAPPINCt

T.

V.

VI. VII.

anil

coyote, tells of the various spec varieties, where they are found

and

CANADIAN WILDS Tells about the and their

Hudson Bay Company, Northern Indians Modes of Hunting, Trapping, Etc. This

5x7

book

inches,

contains '277 pages, size printed on good quality and contains thirty-seven

is

heavy paper chapters: I.

II.

The Hudson's Bay Company The "Free Trader"

Outfitting Indians 'Trackers of the North. Provisions for the Wilderness VI. Forts and Posts VII. About Indians VIII. Wholesome Foods IX. Officer's Allowances X. Inland Packs XL Indian Mode of Hunting

HI.

IV. V.

Beaver

of a

Mode

of

Hunting

XII.

Indian

Hudson Bay

XIII.

Indian

(Martin

XIV.

Indian Mode of Hunting Otter and Musquasli Remarkable Success

bookis THIS from the pen Officer,

Hunter), who has had 40 years' experience with the u d s o n 's Bay

H

Company — 1863

to

1903.

Lynx and Marten

Mode

of

Hunting

Foxes

XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII.

Things

to

Avoid

Anticosti and Chiseling and

its

Furs

Shooting

Beaver The Indian Devil

XIX. A Tame Seal ,.,.. XX. XXI. The Care of Blistered Feet XXII. Deer Sickness XXIII.

..\

Case of Nerve.

XXIV. Amphibious Combats

XXV. XXVI. Price, postpaid

Clothbound

60 Cents

XXVI I. XXVIII.

XXIX.

XXX. The Brass Eyed Duck XXXI. Good Wages Trapping XXXII. A Pard Necessary XXXIII. A Heroic Adventure

XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. A. R.

HARDING, 75

Art of Pulling Hearts Dark Furs Indians are Poor Shots A Bear in the Water Voracious Pike

Wild Oxen.

Long Lake Indians Den Bears The Mishap of Ralson

N. Ohio Avenue, Columbus, Ohio

FIFTnEHBSflPNTEPHDTfim THIS and

book

gives the experiences incidents on the trail and by Mr. E. N. Woodcock, who for fifty years has hunted and trapped bears, fox, marten, otter, and other fur bearers in Pennsylvania. He relates interesting accounts and happenings on trips through the South also of woods life in earlier days. He tells how he built bear_ deadfalls and trap-line

how he

caught

them

in

steel

traps,

he had encountered, some days of extra good luck, some cases of "buck The book is interestingly fever," etc. and instructively written from cover to cover. It contains 21 illustrations, 318 pages, with 36 chapters as follows;

perils

1.

Autobiography Woodcock.

N.

18.

Traps and Hints for Trap-

2.

Early Experiences. My First Real Trapping Experience. Some Early Experiences. Some early Experiences. (Concluded). ^ A Hunt on the Kinzua. My Last Hunt on the Kinzua. Fred and the Old Trap-

10.

Camps and Camping. Deer Hunt Turned Into

3. 4.

5. 6. 7.

8.

of

E.

pers. 20.

Dog on the Trap Line. Two Cases of Buck Fever.

25. 26.

Advice From a Veteran. The Screech of the Pan-

27.

Handling

28.

The Passing of the Fur

11. 12. 13.

29.

Bearer. Destruction of

Words on Dead-

ther.

Bears in 1870— Today. Incidents Connected With Bear Trapping. Pacific Coast Trip. Some Michigan Trips. Hunting and Trapping in Pennsylvania in 18G9. Hunting and Trapping in Pennsylvania (Con-

Game 30. 31.

eluded). 15.

Trapping and Bee Hunt-

IG.

Hits

17.

Trail. Lost in the

32. 33. 34. 35. 36.

ing.

and Misses on the

This book

is

Woods.

bound

in cloth,

Sx7

or giTen free to our subscribers for

A. R.

HARDING,

Raw Furs and

Other Notes.

_

14.

Partner a Necessity.

A Few falls.

per. 9.

10.

a

Bear Hunt. 21. 22. 23. 24.

Game and

Birds.

Southern Experiences on the Trap Line. On the Trap and Trot Line in the South. Trapping in Alabama.

Some

Early

Experiences.

The White Deer.

A A

Day of Luck. Mixed Bag.

inches, price 2 new subscribers

$1.00

Publisher, Columbus, Ohio

HOME TAXIDERMY TN/pRonf A Guide for those who wish to prepare and mount animals, reptiles, etc., for

home, den or

office decoration.

THE

author, ^Ir. Albert B. Farnham, in the among other things says: Introductioi. "This vohime of the Pleasure and Profit Library is offered to the hunter, trapiier, fisher, In vacationist and out of door people in general. the study and practice of taxidermy for several years I have failed to find any work written primarily for these evtry day nature lovers, though they probably handle a greater number of interesting specimens of wild anima! life than all other Thoroughness, patience and classes of people. some love for nature are qualities highly desirable

I'ljoriEluaoEwir

in

this

art.

Work

prepared by one possessing

these qualities need not be ashamed and practice bring skill and perfection. As a handicraft in which the workman has not been displaced or made secondary by a machine taxidermy is noticeable also, and for many reasons is v.orthy of its corner in the home work-shop. In this work the ladies can take a very effective hand, and nuinliers have done for there is no doubt that a woman's taste and lightness of touch so enables her in some liranches of taxidermy to far excell the average man. Especially in the manipulation of frail skins and delicate feathers, in bird taxidermy is this so." This practical book contains 246 pages, 107 illustrations, 31 chapters, and is by far the best way to learn taxidermy and at a cost

~

%':

will

;

compared to Correspondence .Schools and much less than any book on the subject. Read the chapter headings and note how thorough the book is XV. Mounting Large Animals I. History of the Art. XVI. II. Outfit Tools and MaHeads of terial. Small Animals, Birds III. Preservative Preparaand Fish. XVII. Mounting Heads of tions, Formulas, etc. IV. Panels, Shields and NaLarge Game. XVIII. Mounting Horns and and Artificial t u r a 1 Mounts. Antlers. XIX. Mounting Feet and Hcofs V. Field Work, Collecting. VI. Skinning and Preserving X-\. Mounting Fish. trifling

reliable

:

—

Mounting

XXI. Mounting Fish

Skins.

VII. Making Scientific Skins. Preparing Skins for Mounting. IX. Mounting Small and

V'lII.

Medium

Birds.

X. Mounting Large Birds. XI. Tanning, Cleaning and Poisoning Skins.

XII. Making Animal Fur Rugs. XIII. Fur Robes and How to

Make Them. XIV. Mounting Entire Animals.

Taxidermy

gartel

— Baum-

Method.

XXII. Mounting

Reptiles, Frogs

and Toads.

XXIII.

Skulls and

XXIV. Sportsmen's XXV. Odds and dermy

Skeletons. Trophies.

Ends,

Taxi-

Novelties.

XXyi. Groups and Grouping. XXVII. Animal Anatomy. XXVIII Casting and Modelling.

XXTX

.XXX Small

Market Trophy Hunting. Collecting and Mounting for Sale.

XXXI.

Prices for

Work.

and profitable business and can be learned at home from simply reading and following instruction given in my book TAXIDERMY FOR PLEASURE AXD PROFIT. This book is iust as reliable and practical as others of Harding's Pleasure and Profit Books, for the author knows taxidermy from is

a pleasant

— HOME

A

to Z.

Price, postpaid, cloth bound, to

A. R.

HARDING

any address,

75 N. Ohio Ave.

$1.00.

COLUMBUS,

O.

Home Manufacture

Furs and Skins

of

how to tan, dress, color and into articles of ornament; use or wear.

A book of practical instructions telling facture or

make

manu-

THE

author, who has been in close touch with trappers, hunters and other outdoor people for more than twenty years as a practical tanner, furrier and taxidermist in the introduction "Probably one of the oldest human indussays:

Home Dressing and Manufacturing of is Furs and Skins, as this method of clothing the body has persisted from the early days (even back to the stone age) to the present time. As a happy combination of dress and ornament furs will always continue to lead. At the present time tlie manufacture of furs has been highly developed, with the aid of machinery and specialized workmen it is conducted on a scale which compares However, favorably with any business activity. the principals remain the same, and good results can still be attained pleasure to outdoor njan it is positive a by hand labor. To the average see the stiff, dirty, raw skin develop into the soft, clean, flexible macold and an terial, and later to shape it into a protection from the ornament combined." This new, practical and only hook on the subject contains 285 pages, 91 illustrations, 34 chapters, and offers at a small cost a way for you to learn a pleasant and profitable business enabling you to tan, dye, dress and manufacture not only your own catch but to engage in the Read the chapter headings, which will show you business if you wish. hov/ complete the book is XVIII. Fur Dyeing, Uses and I. Some Facts and General Principles. Principles for Fur and XIX. Dyeing Material and Skin Workers. tries

m

:

II.

III. I\'.

V. VT. VII. VIII. IX.

Correct Modes of Skinning Fur Animals. Stretching and Curing. Handling Other Skins and Hides. Storing and Shipping — Raw Furs. Indian Skin Dressing. Indian Fur Robes. Tools and Appliances. Tanning Materials and

XX. XXI.

plies.

Furs

and

XXIV. Fur Rugs, With

and

XXII. Making Up Garments.

XXIII. Fur Robes.

Mounted

Without Heads.

XXV. Trimmings

and

Heads and

Terms.

and

XXVI.

XT. Preliminary Work, Soak-

XXVTI XXVIII XXIX. XXX. XXXI.

X. Tanning

Appliances. Colors and Formulas. Furriers' Tools and Sup-

Formulas

Recipes.

Natural

Tails.

Cellars, Cuffs Pieces.

and

Odd

Coats pnd Capes.

Fleshing, DeCaps, Mittens. Gloves. greasing. Muffs and Neckpieces. XIT. Sijftening, Cli'aning Skins Moccasins and Pacs. XIII. Small or Light Furs. Utilizing Fur Waste. XIV. Heavy Furs. XXXII. Cleaning, Repairing and XV. Deer Skins, Buckskin. Storing. XVT. Sheep and Goat Skins. XXXIII. Prices for Tanning and XVII. i s c e 1 1 aneous Skins, Other Fur Work. XXXT\^. App-ndix. Gator, Snake, Birds. If vou like to handle furs, skins and hides ing,

M

TURE OF

FUR.S

AND SKINS

HOME MANUFAC-

will

show you how

to

make more

money

out of your catch or buy by tanning, dyeing and manufacturinsj into articles for which there is usually a ready market at prices much higher than the raw skins will bring. This book like others on hunting. traf)ping. etc., that I publish is practical and written so that it is easily

unclt-rstoo