301701215-Best-Ever-Woodworking-Jigs.pdf

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Tablesaw ligs Thin- S t r ipRippi n gJ i g F e e ls a f e rs i z i n gt i n y p i e c e s .

Four-SidedTaperingJig Shape table legs fast.

10

Dead-On90' Crosscut Sled Squareboards easilyon your tablesaw.

12

Jig Rais ed- P anel Createthree styles of doors.

16

Corner-RabbetingJig Dress up miteredframes with face keys.

18

S pline- Cut t ingJ i g Giveframe corners a new look.

Router Iigs 20

Two-PartDado Jig Rout dadoes for perfect-fittingshelves.

22

M ult i- HoleDow e l i n gJ i g Positiondowels for even sPactng.

24

Two Pushsticks With these projects,it's all about safety.

26

RouterTrammel F o r a c c u r a t ec i r c l e s ,y o u ' l ln e e d t h i s j i g ,

29

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Flus h- T r im m in g F e n c e on plywoodpanels Put a professronaledge

32

M or t is ingJ ig Rout dead-on lz"-wide mortises.

33

K ey hole- Rout i nJgi g H a n g i n gp r c t u r ef r a m e sj u s t g o t e a s i e r .

33

Jig P anel- Rout ing C u t s u p e r - s i m p l ep a n e l sf r o m M D F .

34

Circle-CuttingTrammel T h i n k b i g , p e r f e c tc i r c l e sw i t h t h i s j i g .

35

Router-TablePush Pad R i g h t - a n g l es u p p o r tt o m t n i m i z et e a r o u t .

36

Dovetail-KeyJig Cut dovetailkeys with ease.

38

Router-PlaningJig This surfacingjig tames wild grain.

35 More Iigs 47 51

Drill-PressTable

52

S anding- Dr umD u s t C o l l e c to r Removefine dust at the source.

AlignableBandsaw Fence U s e t h i s . a n d r i o c u t s w i l l n e v e rw a n d e r .

C i r cl e-C utti ngGui de Make perfect disks at your bandsaw.

Transformyour drill press into a shop star.

45

Ba ndsawMul ti -Ji g Make your 14" bandsaw do more.

Drill-Press Iigs 40

#

54

Ji g Bi s cui t-Joi nter Cut slots in 3/+"materialeffortlesslv. Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

Homemade Tools 57

Hand Plane This littleshaverfits your hand like a glove.

61

HeightGauge Set the precise saw blade height every time.

62 64

MarkingGauge Relyonthisclassic toolforproject layouts. Dead-BlowMallet

Workcenters & Supports

Coax parts togetherwith this tool.

68

Marking Knife Scribed lineshave never looked cleaner.

72 74

108 RollingWorkshop Storage Mobilizeyour storage and organization.

SandingBlock Prepprojects withthisshopmade beauty.

1O9 Tapes-to-goWall-HungDispensers

Centerfinder/Trammel

11O Rock-SolidWorkbench

Simplifythe layoutof circlesor arcs.

Readyto roll when you need them.

Build this basic workbench in a weekend.

Shop Organizers

111 WorkbenchUpgrades yourbench's Sixadd-ons increase versatility.

78

115 Outfeed Table Ina supporting role,thistableshines

Tool-CabinetSystem Find lots of drawers, shelves,and dividers,

79

Mitersaw Work Station Expandyour tool's horizons.

80

Sheet-GoodsRack Buildhorizontalstoragefor bulky plywood.

81

Wall Gabinet Tidyupyourshopwiththissolution.

82

Drill/DriverOrganizer Multitieredbox bdngs order to your bits.

85

Storage Tray yourwall-hung Tucktoolsbeneath cabinets.

88

ClamshellCabinetDoors yourspacefortoolsandhardware. Double

89

Quick Clamp Rack yourclamps Corral atthisstation.

92

Lumber Storage yourwoodforgood. Organize

96

Lathe-StandRetrofit yourlathe. Create storage beneath

98

Utility Cabinet System Whipyourgarage orshopintoshape.

1O7 RevolvingStorage platform Lazy-Susan expands storage.

woodmagazine.com

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Editor-in-Chief BILLKRIER Managing EditorMARLEN KEMMET Deputy EditorDAVE CAMPBELT Publication WriterCARL V0SS Techniques EditorB0BWILSON Tool& Techniques EditorB0BHUNTER Multimedia EditorLUCAS PETERS Multimedia EditorCRAIG RUEGSEGGER Project EditorLARRY J0HNST0N Design EditorKEVIN B0YLE Senior Design EditorJEFFMERTZ Production/0ffice Manager MARGARET CL0SNER Administrative Assistant SHERYL MUNY0N Photographers MARTYBALDWIN, JASONDONNELLY DEAN SCHOEPPNER, JAYWILDE Contributing lllustrators TIMCAHILL, L0RNA J0HNSON, ROXANNE LeM0lNE Contributing Craftsman JIM HEAVEY Contributing Proofreader JIMSANDERS ArtDirectorKARLEHLERS ProjectArtDirector0N-PURPOS, lNC. Associate ArtDirectorGREG SELLERS Assistant Art DirectorCHERYL A. CIBULA SUBSCRIB SE EB RVICE o to woodmaqazine.com,,help P.O.Box37439, or writeto WOODmagazine, Boone.lA 50037-0439 PublisherMARKL. HAGEN ADVERTISING ANDMARKETING

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MEREDITH PUBLISHING GROUP President JACKGRIFFIN Executive VicePresident DOUGOLSON ChiefRevenue 0fficerTOMHARDY Finance MIKERIGGS & Administration Manufacturing HESTON BRUCE Marketing Consumer DAVIDBALL Corporate SalesMICHAEL BROWNSTEIN Meredith JACKBAMBERGER 360O Interactive MediaLAUREN WIENER Corporate Marketing NANCY WEBER Research BRITTA WARE ChiefTechnology 0fficerTINASTEIL NewMediaMarketing Services ANDYWILSON

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BEruOO8 Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers

sk seasonedwoodworkersabout the benefitsof stocking a shop with a variety of hardworking jigs. They'll likely tell you that somejigs get used again and again, while others gather dust. We guarantee that these six jigs will be worth your investment in time and materials.

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For example,afteryou takean eveningor two to build the sledon page 10,we predict that you'll constantlyuse the crosscutsled for repetitivecuts.Thefour-sided taperingjig jig provideyou with more andspline-cutting specialized techniques. We constructed mostof theseshophelpers from Baltic birch plywood and hard

maple. If you pref-er,you can substitute medium-densityfiberboard (MDF) for plywood and anotherdensehardwoodfor maple.SeeSources on pctgeI I for help in buyingthe inexpensive hardwareitems you'll needfor thejigs in this chapter. Seepage 6l for a simple height gauge that complements thesetablesawjigs.

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t*ruypd*r*:es, o n r e t i n r e sy o u n e e d t o r i p s e v e r a l thickthin strips of wood to eclr-ral ness to serve as ed-uin-u.veneer. o r b e n c l i n gs t o c k . S l i c i n e o f f t h i n stock on the f'enceside of the blacle.I'urwThat's becartse ever. could prove Lrnsal'e. it beconres awkwarcl to use your blacle guarci and pr-rshstickwhen yoll cLlt close to the I'ence.Tlie solLrtion:Run the wicle portion ol- yoLrr workpiece between the f'encearrclblacle.cLrttin_s tl'restrips on thc sicleol'the blade opposite the f'ence.YoLr c o u l c l a c c o n i p l i s ht h i s b y n r e a s u r i n - fuo r '

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To make a cursor, scribe a line across t h e a c r y l i ci n d i c a t o rw i t h a s h a r p k n i f e a n d a s q u a r e .C o l o r t h e s c r i b e dl i n e w i t h a permanentmarker.Wipe off the excess i n k w i t h a c l o t h , l e a v i n ga f i n e l i n e . h

CLrt a piece of 7i" plywoocl to the c l i n r e n s i o n ss h o w n t i r l t h e b a s e o n yrgc 7. Cut a clitcloon the bottclrn sicleof the base lbr the guicle bar. where sl.town. Now. cut the y'+"clacloon the top side ol' t h e b a s el u r t h e s l i d i n e b a r .

Cut two pieces of rnaple to size fbr the nriter-slot-guidebar (acliustthe dir l e n s i o n s s h c l w ni f n e c e s s a r yt o f i t y o u r s a r .C c t t t a b l e s a w ' ss l o t s )a n d t h e s l i c l i n - b ter tl'remiter-skrt-uuiclebar in the bottont c l a d o .a n d g h - r ei t i n p l a c e . D r i l l a p a i r o f /r," holes in tl'resliclin-gbar. where shown. scrollsawthe nraterialbetweenthetl. attcl sn.rooththe insicleof the slot with a file. Set the jig in yor.rr tablesit\/'s lel.t slot. Place the sliclingbar niiter--eau-{e in tl-recladowith its lelt enclfh"rshwith the base.Slide the ji-s tbrward. and mark the

S i z ey o u r t h i n - s t r i pr i p p i n gj i g t o s u i t y o u r t a b l e s a w ,s o t h a t a 1 " s c r e w i n t h e g u i d e b a r c a n c o n t a c tt h e b l a d e .l n s t a l l a z e r o clearancethroat plate to preventthe s a w n s t r i p f r o m f a l l i n gi n t o t h e s a w .

R e m o v et h e j i g b e f o r em a k i n gt h e c u t s o the workpiece doesn't bind betweenthe rip fence and the screw head. Replacethe j i g i n t h e s l o t w i t h o u t m a k i n ga n y a d j u s t ments to set up the next cut.

e a c h c u t . b L r tt h a t ' s t e c l i o u sa n c l i t r a c c u r a t e . T h i s t h i n - s t r i p r i p p i n - t. j i - l c l o e st h e job saf-ely.accurately.anclcluickly. Ref'erto Sources or.l/)rr,ga11 lbr harclware firr this prolect.

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point wherea left-leaningsawbladetooth - touchesthe bar. Make a secondmark t/2" closer to the base.Removethe bar, and crosscutit at the secondmark. 7/e+"pilot hole in the slid',rl Drill a tfing bar, centeredon the end you just cut. Drive a brass screw halfway into the wood. (We used brass to avoid any chance of damaging a tablesaw blade.) You'll turn this screw in or out to finetune your jig's basic "zero" setting,or to adjustit for a blade of different thickness or with a different tooth set. fiFrom the bottom sideof the assembly, Udrill andcountersinka Vq"holethrough the miter-slotguide bar and basefor the machinescrewthatholdstheplasticknob. Sandall of the wood parts to 180grit, and apply three coatsof clear finish. ftMake a mark 1" from the left end of uthe sliding bar. Cut the first lr/2" from woodmagazine.com

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MITER-SLOT GUIDEBAR

an inexpensivesteelrule, align its left end with the mark, and attachit with epoxy. a piece of t/q" acrylic to the JCut f dimensions shown for the indicaror. Drill and countersink the two mounting holes, and scribe and mark a cursor line. as shown in Photo A. Attach the indicatorto the base,and add the knob.

Now, cut some strips To cut a thin strip with the jig, place its guide bar in the left-handmiter gaugeslot on your tablesaw.Loosenthe knob, set the cursorto zero (the bottom end of the rule), and retightenthe knob. Slide thejig so that the brassscrewheadis besidethe sawblade. Turn the screwin or out with a screwdriver until the head lightly contactsa leftleaning tooth. Pull the jig toward you, loosen the knob, setthe cursorfor the desiredstrip thickness,and retightenthe knob.

Position your workpiece againstthe rip fence,and move the fenceto bring the left edge of the workpieceagainstthe screw head, as shown in Photo B. Lock the fence,setthejig out of the way, and you're readyto cut a strip, as shownin Photo G. After completingthe cut, clean up the workpieceon the jointer. Replacethe jig in the slot. Then unlock the rip fence, move it to bring the jointed edge against the screwhead,lock the rip fence,remove the jig, and saw anotherstrip. Repeatthe process as many times as necessaryto produceall of the strips that you needfor your project..F Writtenby Jim Pollock with Jeff Mertz and Kevin Boyle lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

Four-$ided Tapering Jig Here'sa slick way to taper four sidesof a table leg-all with one simplejig.

ou can taperone sideof a table leg without much head-scratching, but taperingall four sidesequally presentsmoreof a challenge.With thisjig, however,youcancutall four tapers without changingyour setup.You simply rotateyour workpiecebetweencuts. Locatethehold-downsto suitthelength of your workpiece.(The pivot block can sit at eitherendof thejig.) If your tablesaw hasa 10"blade,youcanhandleworkpieces up to 2" thick. Refer to Sources on page I I for hardware for this project.

Buildthe jig

zA" ply@ For the base.cut a piece of & wood to the size shownon Drawing 1, then cut a pieceof t/q"hardboardto the samedimensions. s/s"dadoes3Ao"deepin one face ffiCut &of the plywood, where dimensioned. Glue the hardboard to the dadoed face with yellow glue. Now, clamp the assembly between two scrapsof plywood to ensure even pressure.After the glue dries, removethe clamps,set your dado blade for a t/+"-widecut, put an auxiliary fenceon your miter gauge,and cut a slot throughthe hardboard,centeredovereach plywood dado,as shownin Photo A. r/qx3/8x12", ffiCut a piece of maple to ffi1fen cut two 3" pieces and one 3t/2" piecefrom this blank for the guide bars. For the hold-downbases,cut a piece of 7+"plywood to lv2xl2". Cut a t/q"groove down the center of one face of this plywood,wheredimensioned on thedrawing. Drill two /+" holesnear oppositeendsof 8

the groove,with eachhole centeredin the grooveandVz"from theend.Cut a 3" piece from each end to make two hold-down bases.Next, glue one guide bar piece in the grooveon eachhold-downbase.After the gluedries,drill a t/q"holethrougheach assembly,using the previously drilled holesas guides. t/qx2xl2" to ;fi Cut a maple blank to afmake the pivot block.(We begin with an oversizedpieceto assuresafetyduring the cutting process.)Cut a rabbeton one end of the blank, where shownon Drawing la. Now, drill two holesto form the ends of the adjustmentslot, remove the materialbetweenthe holeswith a coping saw or scrollsaw,and clean up the slot with a file. Cut aVq"sroovecenteredon the

bottom edgeof the blank. Next, drrll a Vq" hole centeredin the groove2Vz"ftom the rabbetedend. Glue in the 3t/2" gurdebar piece, making it flush with the rabbeted end. After the glue dries, drill a t/q"hole through the blank, using the previously drilled hole as a guide.Trim the blank to 3/i' rn length.Sandandfinish the assembly. fiAssemble the hold-downsas shown. t#For the pivot block, file or grind one edge of the washer flat, as shown on Drawing 1a, and then assemblethe nut, screw,and washeras shown. Adjustable up or down in the slot, this screw serves as an indexingpin. Once setfor a particular workpiece, it guaranteesthat every cut in the sequenceis an equal distance from the centerof the workpiece.

After cutting dadoes in the plywood base, glue the hardboard to the dadoed face. Mount the two outside blades of a dado set in your tablesaw,and cut slots through the hardboard centered over each dado.

Diagonal lines on the end of the workpiece locate the hole that fits onto the indexing pin. Draw the cutline for the final shape, and extend the lines to the edges to help you position the workpiece on the jig.

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

2008

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lE PtvorBLocK Tap into tapering To taper a leg, cut your workpieceto its finished length,then rip it to the square dimensionsthat you want for the untaperedsectionat the upperend.Draw a line on all four facesto mark wherethe taper will begin. Drill a t/q" centeringhole 3/s" deepat the centerofthe bottom end, and add cut lines to show the final dimensionsof that end, as shownin Photo B. Draw cut lines on the face connecting the leg-bottom marks with the taperstart marks. This helps you visualize the final shape,andservesasa safetyreminder as you pushthejig acrossthe saw. Mount the leg-centeringhole on the indexingpin. Slide the pivot block until the plannedoutsideface of the leg aligns with the edgeof the jig. Thrn the knob to lock the pivot block in place. Now, near the upper end of the leg, align the taperstart cutline with the edgeof thejig. Slide the hold-downblocks againstthe leg, and tightenthe nylon nut on eachoneto setthe block's position.Tighten the top knob on eachhold-downto clampthe leg in place. Raise the saw blade t/q" abovethe leg. Butt the jig to the fence,move the fence until the saw blade just clears the left side of the jig, and then make the cut, as shown in Photo C. To make each of the three remaining cuts, loosen the holddown knobs, rotate the leg one-quarter turn clockwise(asviewedfrom the pivoting end),reclamp,and cut. woodmagazine.com

This jig alsoservesanotherpurpose,as shownin Photo D. When you needto cut a singletaper,mark its start and stoppoints on the end and edge of your workpiece. Remove the indexing pin from the end block, andnestthe endof the workpiecein the notch.Align the marks with the edge of thejig, andclamp.Placeyourhold-downs againstthe workpiece.Tighten the pivot block in place,and make the cut. i

31/2"

" rabbets/ro"deep

3/1"

e/sz"slot th" gloove i 3/a x 31/2" 3/6" deep, IDE BAR centered

Hold the taper jig tightly against the tablesaw rip fence as you cut. Before starting each pass, make certain that your left hand is well away from the line.

' t/+"washer, filedto allow nut to engage the rabbet

The width and adjustability of the taper jig allow you to handle a wide range of angle cuts. Here,with the jig flipped endfor-end, we're shaping a simple leg.

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Sled Crosscut Whenyou build this sled,Your accuracy and efficiencyat the tablesawwill soar.

rf Selecta flat pieceof 3/q"plywood, and I cut the platform to the dimensions shownon Drawing 1. f)Cut two 72x3x30"maplepiecesforthe &fence, and cut a s/a"groove%e" deep in the face of one piece, where shown on Drawing 1a. Glue the two blanks together,keepingthe edgesflush and the groove on the interior of the lamination.

After the glue dries, cut a Vq"groovecenteredon the s/s"groove.Then, cut a rabbet along the front of the bottom edge and a t/2"groovecenteredalong the top edge. flFrom 3/+"maple, cut the blade guard Usides and end.Glue and screwthe end to the sides.Now, screwthe blade guard to the fence,whereshownon Drawing 1. f, Cut the front rail from:/+" maple.Use rfa jigsaw to cut a notch, where shown, for the blade to passthrough. Attach the front rail and the fence to the platform with screws. frCut, sand, and finish two toP blade tfguard supports.Using a fine-toothed tablesawblade, cut a piece of Vq"clear acrylic to size for the blade guard cover. Attach the cover to the supportsand the front rail. 3/q"maple stock, cut two strips ftFrom [Jto serveas miter-slotguide bars. Set your tablesawrip fence 8%" to the right of the blade, and lower the blade below the table'ssurface.(Note: Make sureyour

fence is parallel to the miter gauge slot before proceeding.)Apply double-faced tape to the top of each guide bar, and attach the bars to the platform, as shownin Photos A and B. Remove the assemblY from the saw,and permanentlyattachthe bars with screws. JCut a piece for the stopblock,and cut f a dado in the back, where shown.Cut a guide bar, and glue it into the dado. Drill a shankhole through the block and bar, where shown.Now, cut a pieceof Vq" acrylic plasticto sizefor the stopblockindicator.SeeDrawing 1b. Drill, saw,and file smooththe slot, where shown.Make a cursorline, as shownin Photo A. QRemove the top bladeguard, sandthe l0iig, and apply three coats of finish. Reattachthebladeguard,assembleandinstall the stopblock,placethe crosscutsled on your tablesaw,and make a cut from the front edge through the fence. Use a rule to setthe stopblock4" from the kerf. Mark the centerof the stopblock on its top

Two pennies shim the miter-slot guide bars slightly above the tablesaw surface. Place a couple of these stacks in each miter-gaugeslot, and set the bars on top.

Keepingthe rightend of the platform against the rip fence, set the sled assembly on the guides. Press down firmly to stick the bars to the platform.

Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence as you make a cut. Keep your hands outside the blade guard, and don't cut through its end.

ieliable tablesaw miter gauge t handles a lot of crosscutting tl but not all. It rides in just fltutks,. rone slot, and suPPortsthe worka pieceon just one sideof the blade,allowing for slop. This problem disappears, however,with an accuratecrosscutsled. Our designis both inexpensiveand simple to build. Plus, it includes reliable, adjustablestopsfor repeatablecuts.From the momentyou put this jig to useat your tablesaw, you'll discover that making right-anglecuts is easierand safer.

Build a real workhorse

10

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

2008

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end,align the 4" line on the self-adhesive measuringtapewith thatmark,andattach the tapein the fencegroove.Usetin snips to cut off the portion of the tape extending beyondthe left end of the fence.Place the indicatoron the stopblock,align the cursorwith the tape's4" line, and attach the indicatorto the block with a screw.

Now, let's go sledding If a workpiece fits between the fence and the front rail, you can cut it on your crosscutsled,as shownin Photo C. Use the stop block to cut multiple pieces to the samelength,providedthatlengthfalls within the stopblock'srange.Removethe stopblockwhencutting piecesthat extend beyond that range. When you install a blade of a different thickness or with a different tooth set than the one used to calibrate your stopblock, check the setting with a rule, and adjustthe cursor.lF woodmagazine.com

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1"

_1 Scorea line on the acrylicwith a knife, and color it with a permanentmarker.

Sources Forthejigsonpages 5-13,weusedthese Sources: Stainless steel ruleno.06K20.06, each; $1.95 plastic four-arm knobno.00M55.30, each. $1.90 CallLee Valley at800-871-8158, orgotoleevalley.com. (boltandknob); Hold-down no.145831, self$4.99 adhesive rule,no.08Y42, CallWoodcraft at $9.99. 800-225-1153, orgotowoodcraft.com.

11

,ci

---=\-

-

.---

Witlrthis *ne jig, ysili*#n build thr** psputar styles of for your donr pffin:els next *abinet project.

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aisedpanelshave long been a sign of fine craftsnranship-perhaps beciluse they appear difficult to make. But as yoLr'llsee here, that rreed not be the case. On puge 14, we'll show yoLr:.rsimple method for Lrsingthis jig to cut panelswith a tablesarw. Combine scrap material with a f'ew harclwareitems and yor.r'llhave a jig destined lbr a lif'etime of service. See puge 11. lbr a hardware soLlrcefor the knobs.

Start with the basics Cr,rt two pieces of iA" MDF to the d i n - r e n s i o n si n t h e M a t e r i a l s L i s t to nrake the upright (A) and base (B). S c r o l l s a w o r b a n d s a wt h e l % " r a d i i o t t the two cornel'sof (B). cuttin-uoutsidethe l i n e . T h e n s a n c tl o t h e l i n e .

Using yor.rr dado blade. cut two '/-r" dadoes /-r"deep in the top of the base. whereshownon Drawing 1. Afteradding an auxiliary f-enceto yoLlr saw tablesaw rip f-ence.cut it rabbet %" wide and t/t" deep along the bottom ed-qeof the upright (A). where shown on Drawing 1. Next. drill %r," l'rolesin the upri-eht (A) and at the ends of the slot locations in the base.Lay or.rtthe sidesof the to shapewith a slots, and scrollsaw ther.r-t # 1 2 b l a d e .C u t t w o b r a c e s( C ) . a s d i m e n s i o n e do r r D r a w i n g 2 . Drill y'::" pilot holes, and then glue and screw the ji-e together using #8xlth" brass screws. where shown. T i p : U s e b r a s ss c l e w s u r t y t i t l e y o u r j i - e ' s screw holes are close to the saw blade.

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

Now, add the extras Cut the guide strip (D) ts fit your I miter-gauge slot in depth and width. Trim the pieceto 28" long, and drill countersunk t/+"holes centeredon the strip 3" from each end. Attach the guide strip to the baseusing the hardware shown. QCut the upright stops (E) to size, and &drlll the hole and counterbore hole, where shown on Drawing 2. Securethe stopsto the ends of upright (A). {

{tCut the clamping bar (F) to size, and tJdrill %0" holes, where shown. Lay out and shapethe clamping bar curve, as shown on Drawing 1, using a bandsaw. Sandsmooth. ;l Next, attach the clamping bar to '?the jig using the hardware shown. Tip: If you havetrouble finding extra-long machine screws, cut two pieces of allthread. Then secure the four-arm knobs to the screwsusing 5-minute epoxy.

fRemove the hardware and the clamptJing bar and guide strip, and sand all parts to 150 grit. Now apply two coats of finish, sanding between coats with 180grit abrasive. a piece of adhesive-backed fiCut Yl2}-grit sandpaper,and apply it to the jig face, as shown on Drawing 1. Then, reassemblethe jig. lF

-T I

8" 3u

|-

-l

s/q" rabbel V+" deep

111/2'

I

7Yz"

L

E EXPLODEDVIEW 1Y4tr /+-2Ox4Y2'F.H. machinescrew

Curveon this edge ' 1Va"

-J

#8 x 1tl2"brass F.H. wood screw

L

-1

4 x 24"aonesivbt-r=--backed 120-grit

s/sz"

pilothole /q" dado t/a" deep

*:ffi

tA'flatwasher

/q-2Oknite thread insert Vq" tabbel't/a" deep

/a" holes,countersunk on bottom face

upright B base

/q" 11Y2" 28"

C braces D guidestrip

MDF

1

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7Y2" 111h" MDF

2

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{to

28"

E upright stops

/e"

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F clamping bar

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29'

tilaterlalakey: MDF-medium-densityfiberboard, M-maple. Sppfbo: #8x1Y2",#8x1" brass flathead woodscrews; (21,V+20x4t/t (2); l+-20x2" flathead machine screws Vq-20low-arm (81;llzx%| knobs(4);/+"flatwashers compression (2);V+20 springs (2); knifethread inserts 4"adhesive-backed 120-grit sandpaper. woodmagazine.com

r/c-2Ox 2" F.H. machinescrew

LocatepreviousWOODmagazine projectarticlesat wood m a gazine.com /i ndex

13

Howto Sut

Panels Rai$ed Cu$tom Cut raisedpanels with a tablesaw For the woodworker who doesn'thave a router table or the budget for expensive raised-panelbits, cutting raised panels on the tablesawis an effective alternative. This methoddoeshaveonedrawback: You'll needto investtime andelbowgrease into finish-sandingthe panelbevels. To solve the challenge of supporting panelssafelywhile cutting bevels,build jig shownon page 12. the panel-cutting

THREEPOPULARPANELSTYLES PROUD PANEL

BACK-CUT PANEL

PLAIN-BEVEL PANEL

Preparethe panels Before cutting the door panels to size, matchthe wood tonesand arrangethe grain patternsfor best appearance.For example, centerthe cathedral(inverseV) patternon narrow single-boardpanels.When gluing up wider panels,use piecescut from the grain andcolor. sameboardfor consistent Next, decide which style of panel you want. The drawing at right showsthree popular styles:a plain-bevelpanel, one that'sflush with the frame (calleda backcut panel), or a proud panel (with the panel raised abovethe frame). All will give panelsa custom look. Glue up the stockneededto make your panelblanks. Then,cut your panelsto finishedsize. Note: To minimize wood movement,we suggestusing boards no wider than 5" when gluing up your panels.

Te"rabbet t/+"deep Shoulder 1vq' )

s/a"raisedpanels

PROS . contemporarylook . easy-to-sandbevels

coNs

. no paneldetailto catch the eye

PROS . shoulderdetail catchesthe eye

coNs

. bevelsare a bit more difficultto sand

PROS . can decorateshoulder with profilerouterbits

coNs

. bevelsare a bit more difficultto sand

Mark the bevels Looking at the endof the panelblank,lay out the desiredbevelusinga slidingbevel square.Also, if your panelneedsa tongue and rabbetlay them out, at this time. To cut a raisedpanelwith shoulders(the squarelip on the face of the panel),first adjust the tablesaw'sfence 1/+" from the blade.Cut a saw kerf t/e"deep(34o"deep if making proud panels)and I3/q"from all four edgesand ends of the panel'sface, as shownin Drawing 3. This kerf will determinethe shoulderlocation.

Set up the jig for smooth, accuratecuts For yourjig to functionwell, it must slide parallelto the saw bladewith its upright at a right angleto the saw'stabletop.With eitherbladeor upright out of alignment, scoringand burning will occur. 14

The following set-up procedure assumes that your miter-gaugeslot aligns parallel with your sawblade.If not, make that adjustment. With a steelrule, measurethe distance from the saw blade to the jig's upright. Move the jig sideto sideas neededso the distancebetweenthe saw blade and the jig is the sameas the panel'stongue(and rabbet)thickness.When the uprightis the correct distancefrom the blade,and parallel to the blade,tighten down the knobs in the guide strip. Now, adjust the blade bevel,asshownin the photooppositetop.

Let's cut a raised panel Clamp your panel into the jig, exterior faceout, andcut the bevels.Panelscanbe cut in four passesthroughthe saw.First, cut acrossthe endgrain to reducechip-out.

Then cut the bevels on the panel edges. Move through the blade at a consistent speed,slowingdown only if the sawstrains. Note: If your saw bogs down in the cut, you may need to use a thin-kerf blade or malr/

@ rrrrrceHEAD s/qx 1Y2"birch

33/a

\a11/2"

7sz"shank holes,countersunkon bottomside. Requiresa7/aq"pilotholes/q"deep drilledinto bottomof fence'boOV@ Locatescrews to avoid groove.

2V4"

13/sz"hole, centered

over groove

F-

woodmagazine.com

11/q"--4

51

Multi-Jig Bandsaw

Circle-Cutting Guide t/ax3/a" flat { Crosscut two pieces of I steelto 18" long. Cut two piecesto t/sxlxl7/rc"for the stop. See Drawing 1 for reference.Drill and tap the holes in the stoppieceswhereshown. flCut the arms (A) to sizefrom %" solid Astock (we usedbirch). (B) QCut the arm spacers and sliding Utrammel (C) to sizeplus 12"in length from t/2"stock. t/+" rabbet t/+" deep along the 1/lCut a t?bottom outsideedgeof eacharm (A), where shown below. Tesrfit the newly createdtenon on eacharm into the mating slotsin the table.Seepages47-50. 3/s"deep, centered fiCut a %" groove tJalons the inside edee of each arm (A) and along the extrallong blanks for the arm spacers(B) and sliding trammel (C), whereshownin Drawing 1a. Check that the t/sx3Axl8"flat steel stock slides smoothlywithout slop in the groovesin parts A, B, and C. Then, crosscutthe partsB and C to lengthfrom the 12"-long blankswhereshownin Drawing 1. frDrill a'ls" hole,centered,in the slidLling trammel(C). Drive at/+"threaded

insertsquareinto the slidingtrammel. 'f Hacksaw the f heads off two tA" hexhead bolts with smooth upper shanks. Cut to 3/1" long to form the two 7+"-longtrammel pointslike thoseshownin Drawing 1a. (lAssemble (dry-fit)the flat steel into Llthe groove in the arms (A), and position parts B and C betweenthe steel stock.The trammel (C) must slide back and forth on the flat steel. Sand the groovesin the trammelif necessaryuntil it slidesfreely. flEpoxy the steelstockinto the grooves {fin the arms (A). Immediatelvremove any excess epoxy. Later, position the spacers (B) and sliding trammel (C) keepingthe betweenthe two assemblies, ends of the spacersflush with the end of the arms. Epoxy the spacersin place; the trammel must be le.ftfree to slide on the steel stock Rub a bit of paraffin on the bars if necessaryso the trammel slidessmoothly.

t/q-20machine screw, { flUsing the I usecure the stopto the steelstockso the stopwill slideon the flat steelstock. { { Cut the tranrmeldisc (D) to shape, tr I anddrill a %:" holein its center.For useof thisjig, seeDrawing 2. dP

'lg" B* arm soacers

1/z' 11/z' 11/z'

C* slidinotrammel t/2" 11/z' 11/z' H 3%" diam. D trammeldisc -Cutpartsmarked Trimto inlength. withan* oversize totheinstructions. finished sizeaccording

key:B-birch, H-hardboard. Materials flalsteel 36"long,%x1" flatsteel Supplies:l/axs/t" hexhead bolts inserl:2-th-20x2" long,t/+threaded 3tl2" 1/q-20x1/2" points), (fortrammel machine screw flathead (trimmed long). tou/ro'

DETATL l! suotNc TRAMMEL

vrEW I exeloDED

hexhead Use 1/a-20 boltswith headscut

s/0"chamferon inboardbottomend of arms

offto formpins,.

\ ziJi rJ\ ("-

1/q-20 F.H. machinescrew trimmedto z/ro"long

pont.

,.n'19 =\$\l-" "';['fr,i1"o Vl

Inboardend of guide ../

Saw a screw driverslot in bottomends of trammel points.

t/q" hole. centered and countersunk t/e"flat steel 1 " w i d e x 1 z l r o "l o n g

t/q" rabbel t/q" deep

r7oq" hole,tappedfor machinescrew

TRAMMEL @ slrorr.rc 1/+"rabbel t/+"deep -

52

Grindtop half of bbtt

7e"hole, centered

t/e" grooves 7a" deep, centered on edge of stock /a" flat steel 3/q"wide x 18" long

t/e" grooves 3/8"deep

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

BesbEver

YardFigurePlans ;# ri'

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B usrrucrHE ctRCLEC U T T I N GG U I D E

,*" ,'€:. ,

GUIDE CIRCLE-CUTTING STOP

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SLtDtNG TRAMMEL and PIN

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Set stop to achieve radiusof circleto be cut.

PlanOFS-I003 513.95

Angels HeavenlyWinds PlanOFS-I080 513.95

Sittin'Pretty Santa PlanOFS-I060 513.95

Sleigh PlanOFS-I011 513.95

Sleekand StylishReindeer PlanOFS-I068 513.95

All-StarLuminaria PlanOFS-I049 59.95

spacerguide,and Removethe right-hand guide. replaceit withthe circle-cutting Positionand securethe slidingtrammel so the distancefromthe centerof the pin to the bladeis eoualto the radiusof the circlevou wantto cut.

.ti .ri

SLIDING TRAMMEL

s i n g d o u b l e - f a c e dt a p e , a d h e r e t h e

trammeldisc to the bottomcenterof the stock.Positionit ontothe oin.

dru Startwith the edge of the stockagainst the blade.Turnthe saw on, and slowly rotatethe stock intothe blade.At the sametime,slowlypushthe stock (mountedto the discand slidingtrammel) towardthe bladeuntiltheslidingtrammel comesin contactwiththe stop.Bladewill beginto cut a perfectcircleat this point.

AngelicChorus PlanOFS-I019 513.95

JumboTransferPaper TS-1010 S9.9s

plans at: Seemorethan1,000 otherwoodworking

ne.com woodmagazi /plans perorderto havethesefull-sized patterns Add53(5+H) mailed to you.Calltoll-fiee:

l-888'636-4478 woodmagazine.com

haveyourcreditcardavailable. Please

AccurateAlignment

BiscuitJig Joiner Mountyour biscuit joinerto this handyiig, and step up to a new levelof precisionand conveniencewhen cutting slots in 3/a"-thick material.

Start with the base .fl From /+" plywood,cut the base(A) to I the finished size of 18x233/+". From t/q"temperedhardboard,cut the top (B) to l8t/+x24". flUsing a dado bladein your tablesaw, &cut a 7s"groovet/s"deepin the top of the base,whereshownon Drawing 1 and dimensioned on Drawing 2. f}Ar shown in Photo A, use scrap Vl/1" plywood for a platen,cauls, and spacers,to adherethe oversizetop (B) to the base (A) with yellow woodworking glue. Centerthe top with an equal overhang on all edges.After the glue dries, trim the top flush with the baseusing a flush-trimbit in your router. a{ Refit vour tablesawwith a t/+" dado G*utua..'Then cut a r/+"-deep groovein the top (B) centeredover the 7s" groove in the base (A), where dimensionedon Drawing 2. (This forms a T-slot for the alignment-guide toilet bolt, whereshown on Drawing 1.)Now changeto a /g" dado groove in the blade, and cut a 3/a"-deep base/top,where dimensionedon Drawing2. (This grooveholdspartsin position whenplungingslotsin bevelededges.) '/+" plywood, cut the brackets ffiFrom sJ(C), fences(D), and cleats(E) to the sizeslistedin theMaterialsList. Position 54

Edge-to-edge joint With the jig clamped to your workbench, position the workpiece against the fixed fences. Align the marks, and cut the slot.

Beveled-edge joint Hold the part against the fixed fences with the beveled edge in the 3/sx3/e" groove. This offsets the slot toward the inside face.

90o corner joint For a 90" joint, place the workpiece against the square edge of the 90'/45' alignment guide. Position the guide to alignthe cut.

45o corner joint To cut a slot in a 45' mitered end, position the workpiece against the angled edge of the guide. Flip the guide to cut the other end.

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

the fences against the brackets, where shown,with the ends and bottoms flush. Drill mountingholes,and drive the screws. ftClamp the fence assemblies(C/D) \Jin position on the base/top (A/B), where shown on Drawings 1 and 2, with the front face of the fences flush with the back edge of the r/a"groove. To keep the fences aligned, clamp a scrap piece of 3/q"plywood as a straightedge to the front of the fences. Check that your biscuitjoiner fits in the openingbe-

tween the fences with the biscuit-joiner fence flush against the straightedge. If your joiner has a dust-collectionport, make sure you have sufficient clearance for the hose attachment.If needed,trim the fenceassembliesto fit the joiner, and then remove the joiner. Twith the straightedgeclampedto the f fences,glue and clamp the fencesto the top (B). Drill mountingholesrhrough the brackets (C) into the base/top, and drive the screws.Removethe straightedge. Glue and clamp the top (B), centered, to the base (A), using a plywood platen and cauls to evenly distribute the clamping pressure.

-

90"/45" ALIGNMENG T UIDE

)'tt

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Four-armknob

-.-- 1/+"flat washer 1/.tt 4l^+..,^^1^^.

ia

#8 x 11/z'F.H. wood screw t/n"grooves s/o"dgep

FENCE ASSEMBLY

th-2o x2r/q" loilel bolt ---

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7oz"shank hole, countersunk

2',

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woodmagazine.com

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ClPosition the cleats (E) on the bot{Oto- of the base (A), where shown on Drawings I and 2. (The cleatsposition the jig againstthe front edgeof your workbench.)Drill mounting holes, and drive the screws. fiDraw t/2" radii on the corners of the Ybase/top and brackets (C). Cut and sandthe radii smooth. I nUsing a Forstnerbit, drill l" holes I llJ(for hanging the jig) through the base/top,where dimensionedon Drawing 2. Use a backerto preventtear-out.

Add the alignmentguide { From-/+" plywood, cut the guide (F) I to size. Then cut a V+" gtoove 3/ro" deep on both faces of the guide, where dimensionedon Drawing 2. Now drill a t/q"hole through the guide, centeredin the groove,where dimensioned. 6Mark the 45' angle on the guide. lBandsaw or jigsaw to the line, and sandthe edgesmooth. 4lTo form the long and short guide tJbars (G, H), plane or resaw a piece of t/qx2xl6" hardwood (we used maple) to W" thick to glide smoothly in the Vq" groovein the top (B). Rip a 7a"-widestrip from the piece. Then crosscuttwo 5Vz"long bars and two 2V+"-longbars from the piece.Glue the bars in place in the guide (F), leaving a l" spacebetween them,whereshownon Drawing 1. After the glue dries,trim the endsof the short guide bars flush with the angled edge of the guide using a fine-tooth saw.

Position your biscuit joiner on the jig, and clamp it to the straightedge.Then mark the centerpoints of the joiner-base mounting holes (shown at right).

Finishup, and rig the iig

{ Finish-sandthe base assemblyand I alignmentguide,andremovethe dust. Apply three coats of satin polyurethane, sandingto 220 grit betweencoats. fJTo mountyour biscuitjoiner, reclamp Athe straightedgeto the fences.Then positionthe joiner on the jig, and mark centerpointsfor the joiner-base mounting holes on the top (B), as shown in Photos B and C. (Due to the tight space with somejoiners, you may need to use a nail insteadof an awl to mark the centerpoints.)Drill shank holes through the base/topassembly,and countersinkthem on the bottom face. (The screws must not protrude from the base.)Fastenthe joiner to the assemblywith suitablehardware. (To mount our Porter-CableModel 557 joiner, we drilled 3/ro"shank holes through the base assemblyand secured flathead machine the unit with 3Aex2Vz" screwsand3/te"flat washersand nuts.)

Note: If your biscuitjoiner doesnot have mounting holes, check if it has a removable baseplate attached with machine screws. If so, drill holes in the iig base assembly matching the baseplate hole pattern, and mount the unit using the samesize machinescrewsexceptI" longer to account for the thicknessof the base assembly.If your joiner does not have a removablebaseplate,you'll need to drill holes through the baseplate. r/q-20x2va" toiletbolt, {! Finally,installa l)V4" flat washer.and four-arm knob on the alignment guide, where shown on Drawing 1. Then slide the guide onto the base assembly,engaging the toiletbolt headin the T-groove,and tighten the knob. Now clamp the jig to your workbench,and plungeaway!lF

base

Gutting Diagram

B* top

1/+' 18" 233h" TH

1

C brackets

3/c"

BP

2

D fences

3/t'

2'

87/a'

BP

2

3/q'

11"

11"

BP

51/+u 8?/8"

cleats

guide G* longguidebars

1/+u 3/a' 51/z'

H

3/e" 21/+" H bars H* shortguide -Parts initially cutoversize. Seetheinstructions.

3/qx24x 48" Birchplywood G

1/ax 24 x 24" Temperedhardboard

Pj

3/qx31/2x24" Hardwood(.7 bd.ft.) *Planeor resawto the thicknesslistedin the MaterialsList.

56

Writtenby Owen Duvall Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine

plywood, TH-tempered Materialskey:BP-birch hardboard, H-hardwood. (16), wood #8x1%" flathead screws Supplies: 1A-20x21/q" knob. four-arm toiletbolt,t/q"flatwasher, router bit, set,flush{rim Bladesandbits:Dado-blade bit. 1"Forstner

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

2008

Hand Plane After assemblingthis little gem,Voumay be temptedto place it in a displaycase.But go aheadand put it to work. This sturdy planewill do wonders in your shop. woodmagazine.com

First, let's make the parts .f Cut a maple blank to ItAx2r/zxl4" I (enough material for two block planes,and long enoughto run through a thickness planer). If you don't have lzA"-thickmaple (8/4 stock),laminatethe blank from thinner piecesof maple.Preparean identicalsizedscrapblank. f)Plane both blanks to Itt/ro" thick, lkeepine all sidesof eachblank square to each other. Set aside the scrap blank for now. ff Crosscutthe mapleblank to 6Vz"long, \land adherethe FrontCoreBlank, Rear Core Blank, and Wedge Block full-size patterns(Drawing 6) on page 60 to the

top face with spray adhesiveor rubber cement.Cut the core blanks (A and B), and the wedgeblock (C) to shapewith a bandsaw,staying just outside the lines. Sandthe parts to shapeusing a stationary sandingbelt or disc set absolutelysquare to its table. On your tablesaw,trim the wedgeblock (C) to 1/s" thick. Setit aside. /lFromt/q" padauk,cut two plane sides rt(D) to 2t/zx6t/2".Cut the Side fullsize pattern (Drawing 5) found on page 60 along its bottom edge. Next, adhere it to one of the side pieces,being careful to precisely align the bottom edge of the pattern with the bottom edge of the sidepiece. 57

ll eoov ASSEMBLY

Now, shape up the body UsingDrawing 1 as a guide,position I parts A, B, and D on a flat surface, such as the top of your tablesaw.Place waxedpaperunderneaththe parts. fiGlue andclampthe front andrearcore 4blanks (A and B) to the side(D) with the applied pattern.Be careful to align the part bottoms,and leavea t/tr,"space betweenthe front and rear core blanks. After the glue dries, glue and clamp the othersideto the coreblanks. flCut thescrapblankto 5" longandinsert \Jthis piece(unglued)intotheopenthroat It shouldfit snugly, of the planeassembly. but loosely enough so you can remove it later.The scrapservesasa chip breaker for the cutting and drilling that follows. ,1| Next, cut the assembly to length, rtusing Drawing 5 as a guide.Cut the curvedportionswith a bandsaw.Sandthe edges,ends, and bottom with 100-grit abrasive.Take care to keep the bottom flat and squareto the sides. {

A few final touches and you'llbe planing Place a t/t" brt in your drill press, and I set its table squareto the bit. Drill the t/,+"hole at the location marked on Drawing 5 through the assembly.(SeePhoto A atright.) Drill therTo+"holes,where shown on the pattern, through the assembly. Remove the pattern and scrap blank. f)Cut five pieces of /+"-diameterbrass &rod to 2j/rt" long. Near the ends of one of the brass rods, reduce the diarneterjust slightly (by about r,/o+") with light sanding. Insert this rod into the t/+"hole, withdraw it about t/2",apply epoxy to both rod ends, and reinsert. Apply epoxy to the remaining holes and insert the other brass rods. The rods should protrude evenly on both sides of the plane. Afier the epoxy cures, use a stationary sander to flush the ends of the five brass rods with both plane sides. '1/t"core-box bit in a router {lSet up a Vtable, as shown on Drawing 2. Place the bottom of the plane against the router fence with either end against the righr side stopblock. Lower the plane onto the {

58

spinningbit, holdingit firmly againstthe f-ence andtable,and slidethe planeto the left until it contactsthe other stopblock. Lift the planestraightup and off the bit. Rotatethe plane end for end and repeat this routingprocedureto cut a rnatching fin-eerrecessin the othersideof the plane body,as shownon Drawing 3. ,{ Round the edges of the wedge -?block (C) and the plane sides (D) with a %" round-overbit, where indicated on Drawing 4. Sand smooththe areasyoujust routedin the lasttwo steps. E F i n i s h-sand the enti re pl ane w i th of 150- and 220-gri t t l a s u ccessi on We appliedtwo coatsof Olyrnabrasives. pic InteriorAntiqueOil Finish.lP

The scrap blank preventsthe side stock from tearing out when you drill lhe'r/q" holes for the brass rods.

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

REcESS E noureR-TABLEsETUpFoR FTNGER

vtEW ElstDE

Fingerrecess,routedwith a 7a"core-boxbit t/e"deep

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C* wedgeblock

1s/d' 1%d' 31sAd' M

D sides

1/;'

2t/e"

6"

-Cutpartsmarked withan* oversized, Trimtofinished sizeaccording totheinstructions, Materialskey:M-maple, P-padauk, t/a" Supplies: brass rod12"long, epoxy, oilfinish.

s

round-over BLADE

Sources

@

SIDE /+" brass rods 2slo" long

170+" holes,drilled

Pfaneblade.Hockls/sx4r/2" blade, item04835, $36.99. Woodcraft, 800-225-1153 toorderorgoto woodcraft.com, t/" padauk, Woodandbrassrod.Enough 1ttl0"maple, /+"brassrod,andscraplo makeoneplane. KitLP-15, plusshipping. Schlabaugh andSonsWoodwork$9.95 ing,call800-346-9663, schsons.com.

afterassembly

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REAR CORE BLANK

Writtenby Bill KrierwithJim Downing ProjectDesign:PaulHamler lllustrations: Kim Downing;LornaJohnson

1/q"hole, drilled after assembly

Fingerrecess No round-over

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& woodmagazine.com

@ FRONTCORE BLANK t/a"round-overs, outsideedge only

170+" holes,drilledafterassembly

59

PATTERN E SIDEFULL-SIZE 61/2"

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WEDGEBLOCK FRONTCORE BLANK

60

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

2008

0uick-and-Easy

Height Gauge

Raiseyour cutting accuracyto new levels. et the cutting depth of tablesaw bladeseasilyusingthis adjustable gauge. To ensure accuracy, we outfitted it with a steel rule. See Source belowfor the parts. Start by cutting the body to size from 34" maple,as shownon Drawing 1. Plow groove,sizedto fit your rule, a t3/tz"-deep in one face of the body, where shown. Next, set your dado blade to V+",and cut the combinedrabbetandgroovein the body for the slidingbar.To do this, place the gaugebody on edge (ungroovedface againstthe fence).Cut the rabbet/groove in three passes,with the last one at Is/s", whereshownon Drawing 1a. Drill and countersinkthe screw hole. Then sandand finish the body. Usea copingsawor scrollsawto shape the t/+"acrylic sliding bar to the dimensions shown.Createthe adjustmentslot by drilling a pair of s/re"holes, where shown,and cutting out the material betweenthem.Smooththe edgesof the slot and the outeredgesof the bar usinga fine file. Buff the outer edgesif you want to make them super smooth. Now, scribe a cursor line on the back face, where shown, using the method describedin Photo A, page 6. Attach the steelrule in the grooveusing double-facedtape. Placethe bottom end of the rule t/+"from the bottom of the body.Then install the slidingbar. To usethe gauge,setthe cursorline to the desiredheight. Hold the sliding bar in its groovewhile adjustingthe gaugeto keep the bar squarewith the base.Place the body on the tablesawtop besidethe blade,as shown in the photo, and raise the bladeto setthe height.?

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woodmagazine.com

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Hardware. Stainless steelruleno.06K20.06, $1.95; plastic 1t/2" four-atm knob(t/+-20 threads) no.00M55.30 each. CallLeeValley at800-871-8158, orgoto $1.90 leevalley.com.

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61

but $imple Effective

Marking Gauge ln a short evenitrg, you can turn a few scraps of wood into an accurate,easy-touse layouttool. a't tough to beat a marking gaugefor l layoutlines. I creatingcrisp,repeatable I Consistingof a beam,a sliding fence I held in placeby a small wedge,and a scribingpoint, this time-testedtool sets up quickly. (To learn how to use it, see "Get More From Your Marking Gauge," opposite.) To build one, start by cutting the beam to the size shown on Drawing 1. Then, to create the thumbnail profile on one edge,chuck a Vz"round-overbit in your table-mountedrouter, and rout the parfial round-overusingjust a portion of the bit. Now drill a hole near one end to receivea 6d finish nail. Insert the nail, allowing the point to project t/s".Cut off the head leaving %" exposedon that end, as well. Sharpenboth ends to create the scribingpin. Make the wedgeby tracing the full-size pattern (Drawing 1b) onto a piece of s/ex4x2" stock, running the wood's grain lengthwise. (An oversizepieceis saferto handle asyou shapethe wedge.)Bandsawthe wedgeto shape,and then sand it smooth so it slideseasily againstthe beam and along the inside edgeof the fence. To createthe fence,first cut it to shape using Drawing 1a as a guide.Next, bore a 3/a"hole through the fence where di62

mensioned.Using chisels,a flat file, and a round file, expandthe hole, and shape it into an opening that fits the beam and wedge.Note that one side of the opening tapersto matchthe wedge(Drawing 1b). Be sure to test-fit the beam and wedge periodicallyas you shapethe opening. To protectthe marking gauge,top it off with a coupleof coatsof oil finish. ?

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2008

GetMore FromYour

Marking Gauge hen it comes to marking cutlines and laying out joints, it's hard to beat the simplicity and accuracy of a marking gauge. To uncover the fundamentals of m4rking gauge setup and use, we consulted renowned master craftsman Frank Klausz. Here's how Frank gets the most from his favorite layout tool.

What a marking gauge can do for you A marking gauge provides a fast and accurateway to mark lines parallel to the edgeof a workpiece, either with the grain or acrossit. A marking gauge'sadvantage over a pencil is that its pin, which Frank sharpensto a knife edge,producesa very fine mark that does not broaden, and it scores the workpiece for chiseling and saw cuts (preventing splintering). Here are a number of ways you can use one: . Mark the centerof boardsfor resawing. . Mark stock edgesfor joining. . Lay out lines for cutting joints, such as dovetail or mortise and tenon.

along the beam to set the required marking distance to the pin. A locking device, such as a thumbscrew or wedge, secures the fence to the beam at the set position. Somegaugeshavea removable marking pin, which makes it easy to sharpen the pin or replaceit. Also. the beams of some gaugesare ruled to allow for direct setting of the marking dimensionwithout the needfor measuring. One type of marking gauge, a mortising gauge (photo above), has a single marking pin for general layout and another pair of pins on the opposite side of the beamfor easymortiselayout.Onepin is fixed and the other slidesin the beam to set the mortise width.

@ errusHAPEDETATL Grindor file tip to a knife edge and buff smooth.

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The basic marking gaugeconsistsof four parts: an 8- to l2"-long beam, afence,a fencelocking device,and a marking pin, as shownon Drawing 1. The fenceslides LOCKING THUMBSCREW

BEAM 8-12"long

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GAUGE (BOTTOM vrEW)

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Tips for using a gauge

. Becausethe fencefollows the stock's edges,make sure they are straight and smooth for accuratemarking. . After securing the fence, recheck the settingto be sureit hasn'tchanged. Practice marking on scrap first to verify the setting. . Position the fence againstthe stock's edge,and apply light pressureto keep it flush. Rotatethe beam so the pin is at an angle to the stock (as in the photo above), then lightly drag the gauge to make your mark. i

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1 116"

woodmagazine.com

DETATL @ erruANGLE

Let's get to the point For a marking gauge to work correctly, Frank notes, you need to focus your attention on its smallest part-the marking pin-and make sureit hasthe correct shape,projection,and angle. . Shape: Most new marking pins havea conical point, which will tear wood fibers rather than slice through them. To prevent this, sharpenthe pin to a knife edge,as shownon Drawing 1a.

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. Proiection: For bestcontrol, adjustthe pin so it projectsVra"from the beam. . Angle: Because a gauge works best when you pull it toward you, angle the point about 5o away from the fence, as shownon Drawing 1b.The angledpin will draw the fence againstthe edge of the stock when marking.

FrankKlausz,of Pluckemin, N.J.,worksout of his unpretentiously named "Frank'sCabinetShop."

63

Heirloom Persuader

Dead-Blow Mallet hether coaxing together the closely fitted dovetails of a drawer,finger joints of a box, joints of or mortise-and-tenon a cabinetdoor, you'll appreciatethe concentrated no-rebound striking power of this handsomemallet. Filled with about 5 ouncesof looseleadshotand facedwith thick leatherpads,it packsa wallop without leaving a mark. You can make the mallet from shopscraps,or seeSources for the necessarysupplies.

Why you need a dead-blow mallet The head of this malletcontainsloose lead shot for controlledimpactwithout As the malletstrikesthe work surface,the shot movesforwardimbounce-back. mediatelybehindthe blowto dampenthe reboundand solidlytransmitthe force. It'sthe idealtoolfor assembling And becauseit puts two tightlyfittingworkpieces. moreweightbehinda shortswing,a dead-blowmalletworksgreatin closequarters. T o s e e morehandtool si n thi sseri es,go to w oodmagazi ne.com/han dt ools.

Make a laminatedhandle For the handle sides (A), cut two I t/sxIt/qxlg" morado blanks. (For an explanationof our wood choices,seethe sidebarfar right.) Then for the handle core(B),headcapandbase(C),faces(D), andfiller (E) cut oneVzx3x12"ashblank. From this blank, cut a lrAxSs/s"piece for the core and set the rest aside.Glue and ciamp the core betweenthe sides,keeping the edgesand one end flush. f)Joint one edge of the handle (A/B) Znusn and sqriareto the face and rip it to lsAz" wide. Then joint /zz" from the sawn edge for a finished width of 1%".Make a copy of the Handle pattern (Drawing 4) on page 67. Adhereit to the handlewith sprayadhesive,where shown on Drawing 1. Install a zA" dado blade in your tablesaw,and cut IVz"rabbets%" deep, where shown on the pattern. Now with the pattern facing up, bandsawand sandthe handleto shape. QChuck a /s" round-overbit into your tJtable-mounted router,attachan auxiliary extensionto the miter gauge,and finish rounding the end of the handle,as shownin Photo A. Then movethe routertable fenceawayfrom the bit and rout the {

64

handle edges,where shown on the pattern, and as shownin Photos B and C in the sidebar,oppositeaboveright.

Form the head parts

Retrieve the t/2"-thickash, and cut a I t/qxg" blank for the cap and base(C). Make a copy of the Cap and Base patterns (Drawing 5), adherethem to the blank with spray adhesive,and form the end rabbets,as shown in Photo D. Then flip the blank over and cut the dadoesin the tops of the parts. Now cut the parts from the waste, and bandsawand sand the curved edges. For filling the head with lead shot after the mallet is assembled, drill a s/rc"hole in the cap, centered in the dado,whereshownon Drawing 2. f)For the faces (D) and filler (E), lcut three t/z.xlVs"pieces from the t/2"-thickash. QFor the cheeks(F), planea3/qxlt/zxl2" 9morado blank to s/e"thick. Lay out the 4"-long cheeksat each end of the blank andthecentered\tla"dadoesW' deep,where

shownon Drawing 2. Chuck a Vq"roundover bit in your table-mountedrouter and rout the outsideedgesof the blank. Now cut the dadoes,checkthe fit of the handle, and then crosscutthe parts from the blank.

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To accommodate the handle offset, place a spacer betweenthe handle and the miter-gaugeextension,and round over the end.

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

2008

Safe freehand routing with a starter pin Whenthe shapeof a part,suchas the mallet handle,preventsyou fromsupportingit withthe router-table fencewhilerouting,you depend on the bit pilotbearingto guidethe piece. But you'llhaveto routawaysome material beforethe partcontactsthebearing,and the bit can suddenlygraband pullthe partfrom your grasp.To preventthis, some router-table insertsare equippedwithstarterpins,or you can simplyforma pointon a pieceof stockand clamp it to the routertable,as shownat right. Eitherway,beforeengagingthe bit,placethe partfirmlyagainstthe pin or point,as shownin PhotoB. Then pivotthe parton the starterpin or pointand easeit intothe bit untilit contacts the pilotbearing,as shownin PhotoC. Now routalongthe part length.

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To cut the end rabbets, back the cuts with a miter-gaugeextension. Position the blank for the cap and base (C) with a stopblock, and cut the rabbets.

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woodmagazine.com

Choosincr wood for your rnallet

Tropicalhardwoods,because of their stability and density,have beenfavoredby toolmakersfor generations.Rosewood,long a favorite,meets requirements with the addedad3/8"round-overs these utilitarian vantageof unsurpassed beauty.But withgenuine rosewoodlogged nearlyto extinction,hardwood dealerssubstituteotherlook-alike tropicalspecies. For outsidepartsof this malletwe used morado, sometimescalledBolivianrosewood. For the core of the handleand head,we chose ash.Baseballbatsand hammerhandlestraditionally use wood speciessuch as hickoryand ash, knownfor their resilience. A handleas short as this one doesn'trequiremuch resilience, but the ash contrastsnicelywith the moradofor a pleasing appearancethat matchesother tools in the Collector's Series.lf youwish,youcanconstructyour malletfrom any contrastinghardwoodscraps. 65

Insert a t/2"-thickspacer between the handle sides (A).Apply glue to the dado in one cheek (F),then glue and clamp it to the handle.

Applyglueto the baseandcap (C)and the faces(D),positionthem,andseatthe facesin the baseand cap rabbets.

Assembleand applyfinish

back of the leather with 80-grit sandpaper, gettingit as smoothaspossible.Then useordinary woodworkingglue to adhere the pads to the slightly domed mallet faces.as describedand shown below in the Shop Tip. ,1t|With the glue dry, use a utility knife rfto trim the leatherflush with the mallet head. Then finish-sand the mallet, smoothingthe edgesof the leatherpads as you sand.Apply a clear finish to the mallet, including the edgesand facesof the leatherpads.(We appliedthree coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish.) Now show off the newestaddition to your fine tool collectionto your friends.dF

Glue and clamp the headparts to the I handle,as shownin Photos E, F, and G. With the glue dry, file and sanda t/re" dome on the faces of the mallet head, whereshownon Drawing 3. t)With the mallet upright, use a funnel Ato fill the head with .095"-diameter (#7Vr)lead shot. While filling the head, tap the side to settle the shot so you can pour in as much as possible.Then glue the filler (E) in place, where shown on Drawing 2. Sandthe filler to match the curve of the cap (C). ffCut two 2x2" pieces of %0"-thick \Jleather for face pads. Sandthe rough {

Apply glue to the base and cap (C),faces (D), and side (A). With the base, cap, and faces seated,clamp the cheek (F) in place.

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flushwith the mallethead afterassembly

Materials List

Foarn pads ensure a croodbond on sliitrtty curved iurfaces To applyeven pressurewhen gluingthe leatherpads to the domed malletfaces,line your benchvise jaws with rigid-foaminsulation.Spreadglue on the mallet facesand applythe oversizeleatherpads.Positionthe malletand pads betweenthe foam. Then tightenthe vise,slightlycrushingthe foam to make it conformto the domedsurfaces.

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1/2"

1/2"

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1/2"

3/a,

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4"

C* capandbase

-Parts initially cutoversize. Seetheinstructions. Materials key:M-morado, A-ash. Supplies: Spray adhesive. Bladesandbits:Stackdadoset,/s"andt/a"round-over router bits.

Gutting Diagram

Sources 3/qx31/z x 24" Morado(.7 bd. tt.) *Planeor resawto the thicknesseslistedin the MaterialsList.

Writtenby Jan Svec with Kevin Boyle Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz l l l u s t r a t i o n sR: o x a n n eL e M o i n e :L o r n a J o h n s o n

Woodandsupplies. Morado tothickness andashplaned 3Aax2x4" pieceofleather, forthepartslistedabove, 5 oz. (#7r/z\lead of.095" shot.Kitno.W165-M, $16.00. Heritage Building Specialties. Call800-524-4184, or gotoheritagewood.com. Leadshot..095'(#71/z) leadshotno.9030K23, $32.02 plusS&Hfora 5-lb.package. McMaster-Carr. Call 609-223-4200, orgotomcmaster.com. Youalsomay check localgundealers whocarryreloading supplies.

3 / q x 3 1 / zx 1 2 " A s h ( . 3 b d . f t . )

66

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

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