2a

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PLAN YOUR TRIP

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

2 6 18 20 21 26 30 35 42 49 52

Welcome to

the USA

CIITY CITY C TY T original orig or ginal • The • Comprehensive • Adventurous

Bright Lights, Big Cities

On the Road Again

merica is the birthplace of LA, Las Vegas, hicago, Miami, Boston and New York ity – each a brimming metropolis whose ame alone conjures a million diՖerent otions of culture, cuisine and entertainment. Look more closely, and the American uilt unfurls in all its surprising variety: he eclectic music scene of Austin, the easyoing charms of antebellum Savannah, the coconsciousness of free-spirited Portland, he magniÀcent waterfront of San Franciso, and the captivating old quarters of New rleans, still rising up from its waterlogged shes.

This is a country of road trips and great open skies, where four million miles of highways lead past red-rock deserts, below towering mountain peaks, and across fertile wheat Àelds that roll oՖ toward the horizon. The sun-bleached hillsides of the Great Plains, the lush rain forests of the PaciÀc Northwest and the scenic country lanes of New England are a few Àne starting points for the great American road trip.

DISCOVER D SC DISC SCOVER OV OVER Best of • Best-of • Photo-packed • Inspirational

NATIONAL NATIO NATI ONA PARKS ONAL PA ARK AR KS KS Deta ailed itineraries ailed itinerarie itin • Detailed • Hikes and drives • Family-friendly

Food-Loving Nation Cuisine is another way of illuminating the American experience. On one evening in the US, thick barbecue ribs and smoked

England in Fall P MONTH BY MONTH

Welcome to the USA ...... 25 Top Experiences ....... Need to Know ................. What’s New ..................... If You Like... ..................... Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Road Trips & Scenic Drives ................ USA Outdoors ................ Travel with Children ....... Regions at a Glance .......

Get the right guides for your trip

The beer-loving city of Portland pulls out the stops and pours a heady array of handcrafted perfection (www.oregonbrewfest.com; p1039). Featuring 80 diՖerent beers from around the country, there are plenty of choices; and it’s nicely set along the banks of the Willamette River.

major event, one approaching epic proportions in New England (p162): watching the s change color. You can do it just about anywhere – all you need is one brilliant tree. But if st people, you’ll want lots of trees. From the LitchÀeld Hills in Connecticut and the BerkMassachusetts to Stowe in northern Vermont, entire hillsides blaze in brilliant crimsons, nd yellows. Covered bridges and white-steeple churches with abundant maple trees put nd New Hampshire in the forefront of leaf-peeping heaven. New Hampshire (p222)

Pageant of the 1 Masters

This eight-week arts fest (www.LagunaFestivalofArts. org; p915) brings a touch of the surreal to Laguna Beach, CA. On stage, meticulously costumed actors create living pictures – imitations of famous works of art – which is accompanied by narration and an orchestra.

USA Outdoors Best Wildlife Watching Bears in Glacier National Park, MT Elk, bison and gray wolves in Yellowstone National Park, WY Alligators, manatees and sea turtles in the Florida Everglades Whales and dolphins on Monterey Bay, CA

Top Aquatic Activities White-water rafting on the New River, WV SurÀng perfect waves in Oahu, HI Diving and snorkeling oՖ the Florida Keys Kayaking pristine Penobscot Bay, ME

Best Multiday Adventures Hiking the Appalachian Trail Mountain-biking Kokopelli’s Trail, UT Climbing 13,770ft Grand Teton in Grand Teton National Park, WY Canoeing portaging and camping in the

Towering redwoods, a hills, chiseled peaks, lu dramatic coastline of u USA has no shortage of for a bit of outdoor adv we’ve described just o In the other 49 lie an a of natural wonders, fro and lush rainforests to tains and vast stretches of people but full of end No matter your weak kayaking, rafting, surÀn rock climbing – you’ll À to commune with the if you’re thinking of tr the USA is a great plac hone your craft. For outdoor activitie lent infrastructure and for planning an adven entails trekking some ( lachian Trail, mountain carving up the legend in the Rockies; for som

Newport, RI, a summer haunt of the well-heeled, hosts a world-class music fest (www.newportfolkfest. com; p205) in late July. Top folk artists from every corner of America and beyond take to the stage at this fun, all-welcoming event.

August

Looking for other travel resources?

UNDERSTAND 1099 THE USA

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

PAGE

1100 1103 1115 1120 1122 1128 1132 1142 1146 1150

Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see population per sq mile AUSTRALIA

You can follow the Lewis and Clark expedition on its extraordinary journey west to the Pacific and back again online at www.pbs.org/ lewisandclark, which features historical maps, photo albums and journal excerpts.

, g another hurdle, linking Midwestern farmers with East Coast mar In 1836 a group of Texans fomented a revolution against Mexico member the Alamo? See p667.) Ten years later, the US annexed the Republic, and when Mexico resisted, the US wage war for it – an they were at it, took California too. In 1848, Mexico was soun y e and ceded this territory to the US. This completed the USAs conti expansion. By a remarkable coincidence, only days after the 1848 treaty Mexico was signed, gold was discovered in California. By 1849, su rivers of wagon trains were creaking west Àlled with miners, pio entrepreneurs, immigrants, outlaws and prostitutes, all seeking the tunes. This made for exciting, legendary times, but throughout o a troubling question: as new states joined the USA, would they be states or free states? The nation’s future depended on the answer.

CANADA

The Civil War

The US Constitution hadn’t ended slavery, but it had given Congre power to approve (or not) slavery in new states. Public debates rage stantly over the expansion of slavery, particularly since this shap balance of power between the industrial North and the agrarian So

1849

1861-65

1

After the 1848 discovery of gold near Sacramento, an epic cross-country gold rush sees 60,000 ‘forty-niners’ Áock to California’s Mother Lode. San Francisco’s population explodes from 850 to 25,000.

American Civil War erupts between North and South (delineated by the Mason-Dixon line). The war’s end on April 9, 1865, is marred by President Lincoln’s assassination Àve days later.

Freed black m given the vote, South’s segrega ‘Jim Cro (which rema the 1960s) eՖe disenfranchise from every mea sphere of da

The USA Today Memories from the Past on omest ion omest per ,200 oy%

The 21st century has certainly been a tumultuous one for the USA. As Americans looked toward the future, many found it di՗cult to leave the past behind. This was not surprising since wars in Afghanistan and in Iraq, launched a decade prior, continued to simmer on the backburner of the ever-changing news cycle. Add to that the 10-year anniversary of September 11, which again brought back memories of that day when thousands perished in terrorist attacks. Earlier in 2011, in a subterfuge operation vetted by president Obama, Navy Seals raided Osama Bin Laden’s Pakistan hideout, bringing an end to America’s greatest public enemy

LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile

EBOOKS Guidebooks for your reader lonelyplanet.com/ebooks

MAGAZINE For travel stories, inspiration & ideas lonelyplanet.com/magazine

Economic Woes Following his sober announcement describing the raid, Obama saw his

ISBN 978-1-74179-900-2

9 781741 799002

usa-7-cover.indd 2

USA

≈ 11 people

JOHN ELK III/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

The USA Today ............... History ............................. The Way of Life .............. Native Americans........... American Cuisine ........... Wine, Beer & Beyond ..... Arts & Architecture ........ The Music Scene ............ The Land & Environment ................. Wild Things .....................

REG R REGIO EG ONA AL L REGIONAL Culturall Cultura • Cultu • Day trips and itineraries • In-depth

» (above) Thanksgiving Day Parade, New York City. » (below) Mardi Gras, New Orleans.

Newport Folk z Festival

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

52999

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

twitter.com/ lonelyplanet

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

facebook.com/ lonelyplanet

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter

2/12/2011 3:31:02 PM

ON THE ROAD

PAGE

56

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

ME

WA

Pacific Northwest p1001 OR

MT

ND

Rocky ID Mountains p703

MN

WY NV

CA

California p882

AZ

Great Plains p598

CO

KS OK

NM TX

Texas p651

MI

CT

PA

Great Lakes p500 OH

IA

NE

UT

Southwest p785

WI

SD

New New York, England New Jersey & VT NH p162 Pennsylvania MA NY p58 RI

IL

WV

IN KY

MO

MS

The South SC p320 AL

GA

LA

Florida p440

FL

AK

Alaska p1061

Washington, DC & the Capital Region p244

VA NC

TN

AR

NJ DE MD

HI

Hawaii p1079

SURVIVAL 1153 GUIDE PAGE

Directory A–Z ................. Transportation ............... Index ................................ Map Legend ....................

1154 1168 1187 1204

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory A-Z Accommodations he listings in the accomodations sections of this debook are in order of erence. For all but the pest places and the t seasons, reservaadvised. In highrist hot spots, ok up months al, many s on their chains

Bed Online (w BedandBrea (www.bedandbrea BnB Finder (www.b com) Pamela Lanier’s Bed & Breakfast Inns (www. lanierbb.com) Select Registry (www. selectregistry.com)

Hostels Hostels are mainly found in urban areas, in the northeast, the PaciÀ Àc Northwest, California and the Southwest. Hostelling International USA (HI-USA; %301-495-1240; www.hiusa.org; annual membership adult/child/senior $28/ free/$18) runs more than 50 hostels in the US. Most have gender-segregated dorms, a few private rooms, shared baths and a communal kitchen. Overnight fees for dorm beds range from $ to $45. HI-USA membe entitled to small disc Reservations are a (you can book o advised durin when ther night

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Regis St Louis Amy C Balfour, Michael Benanav, Andrew Bender, Glenda Bendure, Sara Benson, Alison Bing, Jeff Campbell, Nate Cavalieri, Sarah Chandler, Jim DuFresne, Lisa Dunford, Ned Friary, Bridget Gleeson, Michael Grosberg, Beth Kohn, Mariella Krause, Emily Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, John A Vlahides, Karla Zimmerman

Look out for these icons: author’s A green or No payment oOur recommendation Ssustainable option Frequired

NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY & PENNSYLVANIA . . . . 58

WASHINGTON, DC & THE CAPITAL REGION . . . . . . . . . . 244

NEW YORK CITY . . . . . . . . . .62

WASHINGTON, DC . . . . . . .248

FLORIDA . . . . . . . . . 440

NEW YORK STATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Long Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .114

MARYLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . .270 Baltimore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271 Annapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281

NEW JERSEY . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Jersey Shore . . . . . . . . . . . 130

DELAWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . .287

SOUTH FLORIDA . . . . . . . 445 Miami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Fort Lauderdale . . . . . . . . 459 The Everglades . . . . . . . . . 463

PENNSYLVANIA . . . . . . . . . 134 Philadelphia . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Pittsburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155

NEW ENGLAND . . . . .162 MASSACHUSETTS . . . . . . . 167 Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 Cape Cod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Martha’s Vineyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 RHODE ISLAND . . . . . . . . .201 Providence. . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Newport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 CONNECTICUT . . . . . . . . . .207 Hartford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 VERMONT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Burlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 NEW HAMPSHIRE . . . . . . .222 Portsmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Manchester . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 MAINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Acadia National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Bar Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . 240

VIRGINIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Fredericksburg . . . . . . . . . 295 Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 WEST VIRGINIA. . . . . . . . . . 315

THE SOUTH . . . . . . . 320 NORTH CAROLINA. . . . . . .324 Charlotte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 SOUTH CAROLINA . . . . . . 339 Charleston . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 TENNESSEE . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Memphis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Nashville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 KENTUCKY . . . . . . . . . . . . .370 Louisville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371 GEORGIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 Atlanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Savannah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 ALABAMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .397 Birmingham . . . . . . . . . . . 397 MISSISSIPPI . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Mississippi Delta . . . . . . . 403 Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 LOUISIANA . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 New Orleans . . . . . . . . . . . 410

ARKANSAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 433 Little Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434

ATLANTIC COAST. . . . . . . .474 Daytona Beach . . . . . . . . . 476 Jacksonville . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 WEST COAST. . . . . . . . . . . .481 Tampa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481 St Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . 484 CENTRAL FLORIDA . . . . . 489 Orlando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489 Walt Disney World Resort .493 FLORIDA PANHANDLE . . 495

GREAT LAKES . . . . . 500 ILLINOIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505 Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 505 INDIANA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .535 Indianapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . 536 OHIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .542 Cleveland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 Amish Country . . . . . . . . . 548 Columbus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549 Cincinnati . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551 MICHIGAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . .555 Detroit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555 WISCONSIN . . . . . . . . . . . .572 Milwaukee . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572 MINNESOTA . . . . . . . . . . . .582

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road Minneapolis . . . . . . . . . . . . 582 St Paul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590

GREAT PLAINS . . . . 598 MISSOURI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 St Louis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 603 Kansas City . . . . . . . . . . . . 612 IOWA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616 Des Moines . . . . . . . . . . . . 617 NORTH DAKOTA . . . . . . . . 620 SOUTH DAKOTA . . . . . . . . .624 NEBRASKA . . . . . . . . . . . . 634 Omaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 634

WYOMING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741 Cheyenne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 742 Yellowstone National Park . . . . . . . . . . 744 Grand Teton National Park . . . . . . . . . . 750 MONTANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .754 Bozeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 754 Missoula. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 758 Glacier National Park . . . 761 IDAHO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .763 Boise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 763

SOUTHWEST . . . . . . .785

KANSAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 639 Wichita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 639

NEVADA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790 Las Vegas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790

OKLAHOMA. . . . . . . . . . . . 644 Oklahoma City . . . . . . . . . 644

ARIZONA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 808 Phoenix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 809 Flagstaff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 818 Grand Canyon National Park . . . . . . . . . . 823 Tucson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 832

TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . .651 SOUTH-CENTRAL TEXAS. . 653 Austin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656 San Antonio. . . . . . . . . . . . 666 Houston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 672 SOUTHERN GULF COAST 680 DALLAS-FORT WORTH . . 682 WEST TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . 694 Big Bend National Park . . 694 Guadalupe Mountains National Park . . . . . . . . . . 702

ROCKY MOUNTAINS . . . . . . 703 COLORADO . . . . . . . . . . . . .709 Denver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 709

UTAH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .837 Salt Lake City . . . . . . . . . . 838 NEW MEXICO . . . . . . . . . . .857 Albuquerque . . . . . . . . . . . 858 Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 863 Taos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 871

CALIFORNIA . . . . . . 882 LOS ANGELES . . . . . . . . . . .887 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 911 Disneyland & Anaheim . . .911 San Diego . . . . . . . . . . . . . 916

PALM SPRINGS & THE DESERTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .927 Palm Springs. . . . . . . . . . . 928 Joshua Tree National Park . . . . . . . . . . . .930 Death Valley National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 933 Big Sur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 940 SAN FRANCISCO & THE BAY AREA . . . . . . . . . .947 San Francisco . . . . . . . . . . 947 NORTHERN CALIFORNIA . .975 Wine Country . . . . . . . . . . 975 Sacramento. . . . . . . . . . . . 984 SIERRA NEVADA . . . . . . . . 989 Yosemite National Park . . 989 Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks . . . . . . . . . 994 Lake Tahoe . . . . . . . . . . . . 998

PACIFIC NORTHWEST . . . . . .1001 WASHINGTON. . . . . . . . . .1007 Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1007 OREGON . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1034 Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1034

ALASKA . . . . . . . . . .1061 SOUTHEAST ALASKA . . 1064 ANCHORAGE. . . . . . . . . . . 1074

HAWAII . . . . . . . . . . .1079 OʻAHU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1082 HAWAIʻI THE BIG ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1087 MAUI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1091 KAUAʻI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1095

USA › USA 0 0

500 km 300 miles

Seattle Trend-setting coffee lover near 120ºW lush wilderness (p1007)

130ºW

ELEVATION

110ºW

100ºW

16,000ft 12,000ft 9000ft

2000ft

REGINA

-500ft

Spokane

ssouri Mi

Ca s c ad e

Portland SALEM

Washington e

Seattle OLYMPIA

Sea Level

Ra ng

500ft

San Francisco Hilly grand dame with a 40ºN bohemian soul (p947)

Missoula

HELENA Bozeman

Oregon

ke

CARSON CITY

SALT LAKE CITY

PACIFIC OCEAN

170ºW 160ºW 150ºW 140ºW a Se i ARCTIC ch 70ºN

0ºW

2

3

2

1

17

Anchorage

Kodiak Island

DA NA CA

ºN

60

Seward Peninsula Alaska

1

150ºW

San Antonio

Rio

Grand Canyon Vast, wondrous and utterly unforgettable (p823)

e

Ch

OCEAN

Texas

an d Gr

uk

El Paso Ciudad Juárez

MEXICO 0 150 km Kaua‘i 100 miles O‘ahu 0 Ni‘ihau HONOLULU Moloka‘i Lana‘i Maui Hawaii Kaho‘olawe Kailua- 20ºN

Kona

Hilo

Hawai‘i

JUNEAU

Gulf of Alaska 120ºW

Fort Worth

Tucson

Nunivak Island

Bering Sea Aleutian Islands

SANTA FE

New Mexico

Fairbanks

20ºN

Kansas

Albuquerque

MEXICALI

500 km 300 miles

DENVER Colorado Springs

Colorado

d

ra

lo

i oR

Arizona

Die San Diego Tijuana Tiju

RUSSIA

Boulder

Flagstaff

Los Angeles Multicultural 'hoods, beaches and endless amusement (p887)

St Lawrence Island

r

ve

Co

Los Angeles

Nebraska CHEYENNE

Utah

Las Vegas

California

PIERRE Rapid City

Wyoming

Nevada

Yosemite National Park Waterfalls, granite peaks and dreamlike landscapes (p989)

BISMARCK

South Dakota

Ri

Great Salt Lake

Reno

North Dakota

Montana

s Mo u nt ai n Ro c k y e l Divid etna nt in Coe r v

BOISE

SACRAMENTO San Francisco San Jose

Ri ver

Idaho S na

0 0

CANADA

VICTORIA

1000ft

30ºN

Lake Manitoba

Calgary

Vancouver

5000ft

160ºW

140ºW 110ºW

PACIFIC OCEAN 100ºW

Top Experiences Experiences › 90ºW

80ºW

70ºW

WINNIPEG

Thunder Bay

rior Supe ke La

n re QUÉBEC

Maine

Burlington

AUGUSTA

ron e Hu ak

p ssi p ssi

NH MONTPELIER Mic CONCORD L hig New York VT BOSTON TORONTO ALBANY MA PROVIDENCE HARTFORD RI CT LANSING Detroit Pennsylvania New York

an

Wisconsin ST PAUL Green Minneapolis Mi Bay MADISON

OTTAWA

Lake Michi gan

Minnesota

Montréal

St La w

ce

Chicago Stunning architecture and lakefront festivals (p505)

60ºW Boston Follow the cobblestones into history (p167)

River

New York Famed metropolis and cultural capital (p62)

N

40º

Cleveland Philadelphia TRENTON Milwaukee HARRISBURG NJ Chicago Toledo DOVER DE Baltimore Illinois Indiana Ohio Pittsburgh ANNAPOLIS s Iowa COLUMBUS WASHINGTON, DC INDIANAPOLIS WV MD Cincinnati SPRINGFIELD LINCOLN RICHMOND Kansas St Louis CHARLESTON Virginia City a FRANKFORT hi ac TOPEKA l a JEFFERSON Kentucky North RALEIGH CITY Wichita Carolina National Mall NASHVILLE Wilmington Missouri Charlotte Iconic monuments on

R

i

Ap p

n

Mo un ta in

iver

DES MOINES Omaha

Memphis

Miss i s si ppi Riv er

Oklahoma

Augusta

AUSTIN

Georgia

Savannah

JACKSON

Alabama

BATON ROUGE

ATLANTIC 30ºN OCEAN

MONTGOMERY Jacksonville

TALLAHASSEE

St Augustine

Orlando

Louisiana Houston

America's front lawn (p249)

COLUMBIA Charleston

ATLANTA

Birmingham

Mississippi

Dallas

South Carolina

Greenville

Tennessee

Tulsa Arkansas OKLAHOMA LITTLE ROCK CITY

New Orleans

Blue Ridge Parkway Drive among the scenic Appalachian Mountains (p39)

Tampa

Florida

Corpus Christi

New Orleans Cajun cookin', hot jazz and Mardi Gras (p410) Austin Creative and indie-loving music capital (p656)

Hawaii Beaches, volcanoes and tropical island allure (p1079)

Gulf of Mexico

MEXICO

90ºW

BAHAMAS Fort Lauderdale NASSAU Miami

Key West

HAVANA

CUBA 20ºN

Miami Cuban food, art deco and sultry beaches (p445) 80ºW

Karla Zimmerman Great Lakes As a life-long Midwesterner, Karla is well-versed in the region’s beaches, ballparks, breweries and pie shops. When she’s not home in Chicago watching the Cubs, er, writing for newspapers, books and magazines, she’s out exploring. For this gig, she curled in Minnesota, caught a wave in Michigan, heard the curds squeak in Wisconsin and drank an embarrassing number of milkshakes in Ohio. Karla has written for several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. Read more about Karla at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

Bradley Mayhew Rocky Mountains An expat Brit, Bradley currently calls southeastern Montana home. Half a lifetime of travels through Central Asia, Tibet and Mongolia has made him feel quite at home in Big Sky country. He is the coordinating author of a dozen Lonely Planet guides, including Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal, Central Asia and Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks and he hikes nearby Yellowstone Park and the Beartooth Mountains every chance he gets. See what he’s up to at www. bradleymayhew.blogspot.com. Carolyn McCarthy Rocky Mountains Carolyn became enamored of the Rockies as an undergraduate at Colorado College. She studied, skied and hiked her way through the region, even working as a boot fitter. In the last seven years she has contributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet titles and has written for National Geographic, Outside, Lonely Planet Magazine and other publications. You can follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.

Kevin Raub The South Though Indiana born, Kevin grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. The rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle took its toll, so he needed an extended vacation and took up travel writing while ditching the States for Brazil. This homecoming, covering Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas and Louisiana, only reaffirmed a bumper sticker he has contemplated for years: Hoosier by Birth, Southern by the Grace of God! This is Kevin’s 13th Lonely Planet guide. You can find him at www. kevinraub.net. Brendan Sainsbury Rocky Mountains, Pacific Northwest UK-born Brendan lives in White Rock, Canada within baseball-pitching distance (almost) of the USA and the Pacific Northwest. He has been researching the area for Lonely Planet since 2007 and his forays across the border have included fine-dining in the San Juan Islands, hitchhiking in western Montana and running 100 miles unassisted across the Cascade Mountains in a so-called endurance race. Brendan is also a co-author of Lonely Planet’s Washington, Oregon & the Pacific Northwest guidebook. Read more about Brendan at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/brendansainsbury

Andrea Schulte-Peevers California Andrea fell in love with California – its pizzazz, people and sunshine – almost the instant she landed in the Golden State. She grew up in Germany, lived in London and traveled the world before getting a degree from UCLA and embarking on a career in travel writing. Andrea has written or contributed to some 60 Lonely Planet books, including several editions of this one as well as California, Los Angeles and Southern California.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Great Plains Ryan first drove across the Great Plains with his family in the 1960s. Among his treasured memories are a pair of Wild West six-shooters he got at Wall Drugs in South Dakota and which he still has (in a box someplace not under his pillow). Through the years he never passes up a chance to wander the backroads of America’s heartland finding beauty and intrigue where you least expect it. Find more at www.ryanverberkmoes.com. Read more about Ryan at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes

John A Vlahides California John cohosts the TV series Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled, screening on National Geographic Channels International. John studied cooking in Paris with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and is a former luxury-hotel concierge and member of Les Clefs d’Or, the international union of the world’s elite concierges. He lives in San Francisco, where he sings tenor with the San Francisco Symphony, and spends free time skiing the Sierra Nevada. For more, see johnvlahides. com and twitter.com.johnvlahides. Read more about John at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides

Ned Friary & Glenda Bendure New England Ned and Glenda hail from Cape Cod, their home since the 1980s. Ocean swims, long bike rides and road trips around New England are favorite pastimes. The highlight of their latest trip was a climb to the summit of Acadia Mountain in Acadia National Park, where the jaw-dropping views reminded them just how wildly diverse New England is. They’ve written extensively on the region and are co-authors of Lonely Planet’s New England and Discover USA’s Best National Parks guides.

Bridget Gleeson California A journalist who divides her time between California and Argentina, Bridget has written about food, wine, hotels and adventure travel for Budget Travel, Afar, Delta Sky, Jetsetter, Continental, Tablet Hotels and Mr & Mrs Smith. Follow her travels at www.bridgetgleeson.com. Read more about Bridget at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/bridgetgleeson

Michael Grosberg New York, New Jersey & Pennsylvania Growing up Michael spent family holidays crisscrossing NY, NJ and PA and with his large New York City family and grew to know their neighborhoods as if they were his own. After several long overseas trips and many careers, some abroad, Michael returned to New York City for graduate school and taught literature in colleges. He’s lived in three of the five boroughs and takes every opportunity to hit the road and explore these diverse states.

Beth Kohn California A lucky long-time resident of San Francisco, Beth loves to be playing outside or splashing in big puddles of water. For this guide, she hiked and biked Bay Area byways, lugged a bear canister along the John Muir Trail and selflessly soaked in hot springs – for research purposes, of course. An author of Lonely Planet’s Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks and California guides, you can see more of her work at www.bethkohn.com.

Mariella Krause Texas Although she currently lives in California, Mariella will always consider Texas home. She lived in Austin for 15 years and still sprinkles her language with Texanisms whenever possible, much to the amusement of those who don’t consider ‘ya’ll’ a proper pronoun. Fresh off last year’s Texas guide, Mariella is as proud as a kitten in a pickup to once again share her favorite places in the Lone Star state.

Emily Matchar The South A native Tarheel, Emily lives and works in Chapel Hill, North Carolina (when she’s not bopping around the globe, that is). Though she doesn’t have a Southern accent, she does know how to smoke a hog, hotwire a pickup truck and bake a mean coconut cake. She writes about culture, food and travel for a variety of national magazines and newspapers, and has contributed to a dozen Lonely Planet guides. Read more about Emily at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/emilymatchar

Sara Benson USA’s National Parks, California, Hawaii After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She has bounced around the Golden State ever since, in between stints living in Asia and Hawaii and working as a national park ranger. The author of 50 travel and nonfiction books, Sara dodged avalanches in Lake Tahoe and rockslides along Big Sur’s splendid coast while writing this guide. Follow her adventures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com and www.twitter.com/indie_traveler. Read more about Sara at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/Sara_Benson

Alison Bing California After 18 years in San Francisco, Alison has done everything you’re supposed to do in the city and some things you’re not, including falling in love on the Haight St bus and eating a Mission burrito in one sitting. Alison holds degrees in art history and international relations – respectable diplomatic credentials she regularly undermines with opinionated culture commentary for newspapers, magazines, TV, radio and books, including Lonely Planet’s USA Trips, California, San Francisco and San Francisco Encounter guides. Jeff Campbell Florida Jeff is the great-grandson of Florida pioneers who cleared the pines, mined the phosphate, and paved the roads in central Florida. As a child, he remembers searching for alligators in the local lake, and riding Space Mountain the year it opened. As an adult, he’s been a travel writer for Lonely Planet since 2000. He was the coordinating author of Florida, as well as three editions of USA, among other US titles.

Nate Cavalieri California A native of central Michigan, Nate lives in Northern California and has crisscrossed the region’s back roads by bicycle, bus and rental car on a tireless search for the biggest trees, the best camping and the hoppiest pints of craft beer. In addition to authoring guides on California and Latin America for Lonely Planet, he writes about jazz and pop music and is the jazz editor at Rhapsody Music Service. Photos from his travels in Northern California and other writing can be found at www.natecavalieri.com. Read more about Nate at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/natecavalieri

Sarah Chandler Southwest Long enamored of Sin City’s gritty enchantments, Sarah jumped at the chance to sharpen her blackjack skills while delving into the atomic and alien mysteries of rural Nevada. In Vegas, Sarah learned the secret art of bypassing velvet ropes, bounced from buffets to pool parties, and explored the seedy vintage glamour of downtown. Sarah is currently based between the US and Amsterdam, where she works as a writer, actress, and lecturer at Amsterdam University College. When in doubt, she always doubles down. Read more about Sarah at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/sarahchandler

Jim DuFresne Alaska Jim has lived, worked and wandered across Alaska and even cashed a Permanent Fund Dividend check. As the sports and outdoors editor of the Juneau Empire, he was the first Alaskan sportswriter to win a national award from Associated Press. As a guide for Alaska Discovery he has witness Hubbard Glacier shed icebergs the size of pickup trucks off its 8-mile-wide face. Jim now lives in Michigan writing for www.MichiganTrailMaps.com and regularly returns to the Far North to update Lonely Planet’s Alaska. Lisa Dunford Southwest As one of the possibly thousands of great, great grand-daughters of Brigham Young, ancestry first drew Lisa to Utah. But it’s the incredible red rocks that keep her coming back. Driving the remote backroads outside Bluff, she was reminded of how here the earth seems at its most elemental. Before becoming a freelance author 10 years ago, Lisa was a newspaper editor and writer in South Texas. Lisa co-authored Lonely Planet’s Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks.

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Regis St Louis Coordinating Author, Washington, DC & the Capital Region A Hoosier by birth, Regis grew up in a sleepy riverside town where he dreamed of big-city intrigue. In 2001, he settled in New York, which had all that and more. He has also lived in San Francisco and Los Angeles and has crossed the country by train, bus and car, while visiting remote corners of America. Favorite memories from his most recent trip include chasing the bluegrass scene across southern Virginia, chanting with Krishna devotees in West Virginia and crab feasting all over Maryland. Regis has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet titles, including Washington, DC and NYC. Read more about Regis at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/regisstlouis

Amy C Balfour Southwest Amy has hiked, biked, skied and gambled her way across the Southwest, finding herself returning again and again to Flagstaff, Monument Valley and, always, the Grand Canyon. On this trip she fell hard for Bisbee and Chiricahua National Monument. When she’s not daydreaming about red rocks and green chile hamburgers, she’s writing about food, travel and the outdoors. Amy has authored or co-authored 11 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including Los Angeles Encounter, California, Hawaii and Arizona.

Read more about Amy at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/amycbalfour

Michael Benanav Southwest Michael came to New Mexico in 1992 and quickly fell under its spell; soon after, he moved to a rural village in the Sangre de Cristo foothills, where he still lives. A veteran international traveler, he can’t imagine a better place to come home to after a trip. Aside from his work for Lonely Planet, he’s authored two nonfiction books and writes and photographs for magazines and newspapers. His website is www.michaelbenanav.com. Andrew Bender California Andrew is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in Los Angeles but because he’s made it his own. Two decades ago, this native New Englander packed up the car and drove cross-country to work in film production, and eventually realized that the joy was in the journey (and writing about it). His work has since appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Forbes, over two dozen Lonely Planet titles, and on his blog, www.wheres-andy-now.com. Current obsessions: discovering LA’s next great ethnic enclave, and winter sunsets over the bike path in Santa Monica. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 7th edition – Mar 2012 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 900 2 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Itineraries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.

CANADA Maine

Vermont New Hampshire É

• # Portsmouth

Salem # Concord • Provincetown

# Bennington •

• #• #

Boston Massachusetts

É

New York

É

30

• #

É

Connecticut

• # Cape Cod Rhode Island

É • # Hamptons

Pennsylvania

• #

New York

Two to Three Weeks

East Coasting The great dynamo of art, fashion and culture, New York City is America at her most urbane. Spend four days exploring the metropolis, visiting memorable peoplewatching hoods such as the West and East Villages, the Lower East Side, Soho, Nolita and the Upper West Side, with a museum hop down the Upper East Side. Have a ramble in Central Park, stroll the High Line and take a detour to Brooklyn. After big-city culture, catch your breath at the pretty beaches and enticing charms of the Hamptons on Long Island. Back in NYC, catch the train to Boston, for two days visiting historic sights, dining in the North End and pub-hopping in Cambridge. Strike out for Cape Cod, with its idyllic dunes, forests and pretty shores. Leave time for Provincetown, the Cape’s liveliest settlement. Back in Boston, hire a car and take a three-day jaunt taking in New England’s back roads, covered bridges, picturesque towns and beautiful scenery, staying at heritage B&Bs en route. Highlights include Salem and Concord in Massachusetts; Bennington, Vermont; and Portsmouth, New Hampshire. If time allows, head all the way up to Maine for lobster feasts amid beautifully rugged coastline.

31 Olmpic San Juan Glacier CANADA National Islands National Park • # Park Seattle ÷• # # ÷ Bob Marshall # • # Mt RainierR • #Wilderness Complex Spokane • Nth Dakota Minnesota # Washington Montana Missoula Mt Rushmore & New Rhode Wisconsin #Bozeman Crazy Horse Oregon Yellowstone • Minneapolis York Island Cody Corn • National Park # # ÷ • # Michigan Palace # New York Idaho • # • # ÷ Deadwood• # • # Madison • # Harrisburg Grand Teton ÷ Sth Dakota • # # Chicago # • # • # • National Park Pine Ridge Badlands • # Iowa Philadelphia Wyoming Indian National Park Indiana Ohio Pittsburgh Nevada Reservation Nebraska Illinois Utah West Virginia É

É

É

É

MEXICO

Three Weeks

Northern Expedition For a different take on the transcontinental journey, plan a route through the north. From New York City, head west toward Harrisburg via Philadelphia, but stop first to explore the idyllic backroads of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Next is Pittsburg, a surprising town of picturesque bridges and green spaces, cutting-edge museums and lively neighborhoods. Enter Ohio by interstate, but quickly step back in time on a drive through old-fashioned Amish Country. Big-hearted Chicago – aka Second City, the Windy City – is the Midwest’s greatest city. Stroll or bike the lakefront, marvel at famous artwork and grand architecture, and take a culinary journey amid Chicago’s celebrated restaurant scene. Head north to Madison, a youthful green-loving university town. Detour north to the land of 10,000 lakes (aka Minnesota) for a stop in friendly, arty Minneapolis, followed by a visit to its quieter historic twin, St Paul, across the river. Return to I-90 and activate cruise control, admiring the corn (and the Corn Palace) and the flat, flat South Dakota plains. Hit the brakes for the Badlands National Park and plunge into the Wild West. In the Black Hills, contemplate the nation’s complex history at the massive monuments of Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse. Watch mythic gunfights in Deadwood and learn about Native American culture at Pine Ridge Indian Reservation. Halfway across Wyoming, cruise into Cody to catch a summer rodeo. Then take in the wonders of Yellowstone National Park, home to geysers, alpine lakes and waterfalls, with magnificent wildlife watching. Next, hike past jewel-like lakes and soaring peaks in Grand Teton National Park. Through rural Montana, the outdoorsy towns of Bozeman and Missoula make fun stops. Hit the boutique- and cafe scene, enjoy a fabulous meal, then head off again into the alpine beauty of Glacier National Park followed by a trek through the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex. After a few days out in the wild, surprising Spokane is a great place to recharge, with a pleasant riverfront and historic district sprinkled with enticing eating and drinking spots. For more cosmopolitan flavor, keep heading west to Seattle, a forward-thinking, eco-minded city with cafe culture, abundant nightlife and speedy island escapes on Puget Sound. If you still have time, the region has some great places to explore, including Mt Rainier, Olympic National Park, and the San Juan Islands.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

BAHAMAS

JERRY ALEXANDER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

STEPHEN SAKS/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

» (above) Vineyard, Napa Valley (p975) » (left) General store in a small Texan town

33 CANADA

Rhode Island

New York • # # Philadelphia •

Napa Yosemite Valley National Nevada • # Park & Utah ÷ Sequoia # • # Kings Canyon San Colorado National Park ÷ Francisco # Las Vegas Grand Canyon National Park • # California ÷ # • # Taos ÷ # • # • # Santa Fe Mojave National Sedona New Preserve Arizona Mexico

_ Maryland Washington DC #

É

É

É

Outer West Virginia # Banks Williamsburg • • # Virginia • # Cape • # Hatteras North Carolina Ocracoke South Carolina• # Charleston Georgia • # Savannah Mississippi Texas Alabama Louisiana • #New Florida Austin • # Houston • # Big Bend # # ÷ San • • # Orleans BAHAMAS National Park Galveston Antonio Island MEXICO É

One Month

Coast to Coast The Great American road trip: It’s been mythologized hundreds of ways. Now live the dream, driving the length and breadth of the USA. Start in New York City (but hire a car in cheaper New Jersey) and hit the road. First stop: Philadelphia, a historic city with a burgeoning food, art and music scene. Continue on to Washington, DC. The nation’s capital has a dizzying array of sights, plus great dining (crab feasts, global fare) and revelry, after the museums close. Continue south through Virginia, taking a detour to visit the fantastic historic settlement of colonial Williamsburg. Stick to the coast as you drive south, visiting Cape Hatteras with its pristine dunes, marshes and woodlands. Catch the ferry to remote Ocracoke Island where the wild ponies run. Further down, take in the antebellum allure of Charleston and Savannah, two of the south’s most captivating destinations. Next it’s on to jazz-loving New Orleans, with a soundtrack of smokin’ hot funk brass bands, and succulent Cajun and Creole food. The big open skies of Texas are next. Hit the beach at Galveston Island outside Houston. Follow the Mission Trail and stroll the tree-lined riverwalk in thriving San Antonio, then revel in the great music and drinking scene in Austin. Afterwards, eat your way through barbecue-loving Hill Country, then walk it off in jaw-dropping Big Bend National Park. Head north to New Mexico, following the Turquoise Trail up to artsy Santa Fe and far-out Taos. Roll west to red-rock Sedona, one of Arizona’s loveliest and – to Native American tribes – most sacred places. The awe-inspiring Grand Canyon is next. Stay in the area to maximize time near this great wonder. Try your luck amid the bright lights of (luck be a lady tonight?) Las Vegas, then skirt the vast desert wilderness of Mojave National Preserve on your ride into California. From there, it’s onto the lush towering forests of majestic Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks in the Sierra Nevada, followed by hiking and wildlife watching in Yosemite, California’s most revered national park. The last stop is in hilly San Francisco, an enchanting city spread between ocean and bay with beautiful vistas, world-class dining and bohemian-loving nightlife. If there’s time, tack on a grand finale drinking in the vineyards and gourmet produce of Napa Valley.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

New York

34

CANADA • Washington Seattle # Rainier ÷ Mt # National Park • Portland #

Montana

É

RMt Hood Sisters R • Bend # Crater • Lake # Oregon Redwood • # National & # Ashland ÷ State Parks # • Arcata • Eureka # Lost Coast

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

PA C I F I C OCEAN

Idaho Wyoming

• Mendocino #

É Napa &

• San Francisco #

Sonoma Valleys

Nevada Utah

• Santa Cruz # • Monterey # • Big Sur # California • Hearst Castle # • San Luis Obispo # • É Santa Barbara # • Los Angeles # Channel Islands • San Diego #

Colorado

Arizona

New Mexico

Three Weeks

The Left Coast Geographically and politically, the West Coast couldn’t be further from Washington, DC. This is a trip for those who lean left, and who like their nature ancient and wild, and their horizons and beaches wide-open. Start in Seattle, taking in sprawling food markets, microbreweries and waterfront scenery. Heading south, visit Mt Rainier National Park, with superb hiking and relaxing inns nestled beneath the snow-covered peak. Continue on to the cutting-edge city of Portland, known for its sprawling parks, environmentally minded residents and progressive urbanism – plus food carts, coffeehouse culture and great nightlife to boot. After your culture fix, jump into nature’s bounty by driving east along the Columbia River Gorge. Then turn south and make for Mt Hood for winter skiing and summer hiking. Further adventures await in the Sisters, a trio of 10,000ft peaks, and the striking blue waters of Crater Lake. Catch a Shakespearian play in sunny Ashland, then trade the mountains for the foggy coast. Enter California via Hwy 199 and take a stroll through the magnificent old-growth forests in Redwood National & State Parks. Hug the coast as it meanders south through funky Arcata and seaside Eureka, lose yourself on the Lost Coast, then catch Hwy 1 through quaint Mendocino whose scenic headlands and rugged shoreline make for a requisite wander. Make your way inland to the Napa & Sonoma Valleys for a wash-up and wine tasting amid rolling vineyards. Then continue south to the romantically hilly, ever free-spirited San Francisco. Return to scenic Hwy 1 through surf-loving Santa Cruz, stately bayfront Monterey and beatnik-flavored Big Sur, where you can get scruffy again. In no time you’ll reach the surreal Hearst Castle and laid-back, collegiate San Luis Obispo. Roll into Mediterranean-esque Santa Barbara, then hop aboard a ferry in Ventura to the wildlife-rich Channel Islands. The pull from Los Angeles is strong. Go ahead, indulge your fantasies of Hollywood then cruise through LA’s palm-lined neighborhoods – from Santa Monica to Los Feliz, Beverly Hills to Long Beach. After wracking up a few sins in the city of Angels, move on down to picture-perfect San Diego, visiting the historic Mission, the world-famous zoo, and of course those enticing beaches.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’