25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle

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25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle by irwinner on September 13, 2007

Table of Contents intro: 25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

step 1: The Parts... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

step 2: The Chamber... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

step 3: Gun Body... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

step 4: The Stock and The Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

step 5: The Bolt and Barrel Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 step 6: Scope Mount and Other Add-ons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 step 7: trigger assemlby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Customized Instructable T-shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

intro: 25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle ***Disclaimer*** The following is for informational purposes only, i take no responsibility for what you do with this knowledge. i can not be held responsible for any property or medical damages caused by this weapon. i would advise you to check your local laws. These types of guns are illegal in some areas, and i would highly advise you against building one of these in said areas. Pneumatic rifles can be very powerful and should never be pointed at a person or animal. Lastly when dealing with pneumatics never over pressurize them and always use NFS-PW pipe (as apposed to DWV) well before we begin i must state a few things... -PVC can only be used at half or less than half the pressure rating stamped on the pipe when pressurized gases are used in the pipe -i would suggest never pressurizing this cannon above 150 psi, remember its only plastic -never store any type of PVC pneumatic with pressure still in it -always allow a full 24hours for PVC glue to dry before pressurizing -when building pneumatics always use metal or PVC pipe (never ABS) -PVC is shock sensitive meaning if its dropped on a hard its very likely it will be damaged and it would be very dangerous to pressurize after damaged -PVC becomes very brittle below 32 degrees (Fahrenheit) and is very likely to explode if pressured in such conditions -when building pneumatics pressure rated pipe should always be used (none of that cell core or DWV crap) -the most important part of any pneumatic are the PVC welds AND I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU READ THIS TUTORIAL before you even think about starting this. -when you are dealing with high velocity projectiles always remember you safety glasses -always be sure of your back stop when shooting any form of rifle, pistol, gun, bow.... anything that can fire some vague form of projectile -and use common sense! -do not use un-regulated HPA or CO2 in a PVC cannon ever they are stored at to high of pressures to be safe in PVC, but if you have a properly regulated setup they can be used ( if you lower the pressure to about 100psi) Now onto the good part... this is my entry for the launch it challenge, it is a 25MM Pneumatic Cannon. it has 2.5 foot long one inch diameter barrel with a custom bolt action mechinism, of course we have the 3-9X40 sniper scope, and a 1" modified sprinkler valve as the primary firing valve. The Video...

Video

remember always wear safety goggles, you never know where or when something will ricochet especially when its traveling at 300+FPS Fun Fact: PVC shards can't be picked up by X-Rays (this is a safety tip! don't rush or you'll get a PVC shard in you and you probably wont get it out. im not saying you should sneak one of these into your luggage and go threw airport security. it would be way to big any way) better video coming soon If you like this instructable please register and vote for it in the launch it challenge (by click the plus icon next to the title) DETAILED SPECS power source------------------compressed air power source pressure-----100psi chamber volume--------------45 ci (approx.) barrel volume------------------25 ci (approx.) c/b ratio--------------------------1.8 to 1(approx.) firing valve----------------------pneumatically actuated sprinkler valve (a "modded sprinkler" valve) pilot valve-----------------------blow gun valve fill valve--------------------------female quick disconnect fire rate--------------------------single shot, bolt action caliber---------------------------25MM ( one inch) projectile velocity-------------unknown (coming soon) effective range----------------unknown (coming soon) maximum range-------------unknown (coming soon) optics---------------------------3-9X40MM rifle scope primary material used------PVC pipe I WOULD SUGGEST YOU DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE UNDER TAKING THIS PROJECT, LOOK INTO THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PIPE AND THERE RATINGS, HOW TO SOLVENT WELD PVC (THIS IS A MUST), HOW TO PROPERLY DRILL AND THREAD HOLES FOR FITTINGS, THE TYPE OF CONDITIONS PVC CAN BE USED AND STORED IN. THE MAJORITY OF THIS INFORMATION IS CONTAINED WITHIN THIS INSTRUCTABLE BUT IT IS BECOMING CLEAR THAT MANY OF YOU ARE NOT READING ALL OF IT. I HAVE ONE FINAL SUGGESTION BUILT A BASIC PNEUMATIC OR COMBUSTION FIRST IF A BASIC CANNON FAILS IT WILL BE LESS DANGEROUS

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

PS - DON'T ATTEMPT THIS AT ALL IF YOU HAVE NO COMMON SENSE OR A LOW IQ

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

step 1: The Parts... we will be making this particular pneumatic out of mostly PVC so it is relatively inexpensive to make. here is what your going to need. Parts... ( 1x ) 2" PVC cap ( 1x ) 2" PVC coupling ( 1x ) 2" to 1" PVC bushing ( 2x ) 1.5" PVC couplings ( 2x ) 1.5" to 1" PVC bushings ( 1x ) 1" PVC tee ( 2x ) 1" PVC 90 degree elbows ( 2x ) 1" PVC male threaded adapters ( 1x ) 1" to .75" bushing ( 1x ) .75" PVC cap ( 1x ) .75" PVC tee ( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows ( 2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows ( 1x ) female quick disconnect 1/4" ( 2x ) 3/8" by 1/4" compression fittings ( 1x ) blowgun valve ( 1x ) 1" sprinkler vlave a few inches of 1/4" ID flexible tubbing assorted bits of 2", 1.5", 1", and .75" pipe Tools... a dremel a band saw a drill (preferably a drill press) PVC primer (make sure its primer and not cleaner or it could end badly) PVC glue

Image Notes 1. a pre-modded sprinkler valve 2. quick disconnect 3. compression fitting

step 2: The Chamber... REMEMBER READ THIS BEFORE STARTING and read all of it! The chamber in a pneumatic cannon is a buffer zone between the valve and the bike pump/ compressor. It allows a large amount of air to be stored and exhausted very quickly when fired. this is my chamber, it is a 12 inch long piece of 2" PVC pipe with a 2" cap on one side and a 2" coupling on the other, attached to the 2" coupling is a 2" to 1" reducing bushing. After the chamber was glued i let it sit for an hour (so the glue could partially cure) then i drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of the 2" cap so i could thread in the brass quick disconnect. do not use any Teflon tape on this fitting, if it starts leaking put some epoxy putty or JB weld on the section where the threads meet the chamber.

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Image Notes 1. cutting 2" pipe using a hack saw, a band saw would be faster but the hack saw was easier to find

Image Notes 1. 2" to 1" reducing bushing 2. 2" coupling 3. 2" cap 4. 12 inches of 2" pipe

Image Notes 1. a properly primmed joint that is about to be glued, note the blue tape that prevents the ugly purple primmer from dipping down the pipe

Image Notes 1. the 2" cap glued on

Image Notes

Image Notes

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1. the last part to be glued to the chamber

1. completely glued chamber

Image Notes 1. 1/2" hole being drilled on a high speed drill press with a vice grip

Image Notes 1. yay its finished

step 3: Gun Body... the gun body connect the chamber to the valve and all the other parts of the gun (trigger, stock, ect) first cut a piece of PVC double the length of a 1" socket and glue it into one of the 1" PVC elbows. then insert a a long piece of 1" pipe into the 1" elbow and the 1" tee( but don't glue it) this will help you get the joint between the 1" elbow and 1" tee perfectly straight. now glue the short piece of pipe sticking out of the the 1" elbow into the base of the 1" tee, use the long pieces of pipe to make the joint as straight as possible or the barrel will be off to the left or right of the gun. next is a rather odd step listen closely, i want you to glue the outside of the 3/4" end cap into the the back of the 1" tee. there are two things you want to remember here not all end caps will work do a dry test before you glue it and this is the part where the stock is connected to the body so make sure you insert the cap the right way (so the socket part is facing outwards making it possible to insert a piece of 3/4" pipe). next cut 7" piece of 1" pipe and glue it into the remaining socket of the 1" elbow.now cut a short piece of pipe and connect one of the male adapters to the remaining socket of the 1" Tee. the last piece your going to need a dremel for you need to modify one of the 1" 90 degree elbows to it can slid along a 1" piece of pipe relatively easy. sadly there is no trick to doing this your just going to need to take of a little material at a time until you get it just right. once the elbow has been modified glue the 1" to 3/4" reducing bushing into its unmodified socket then slide it onto the 7" long piece of pipe which is now glued in place. then glue the other side of the 7" long pipe to the chamber. you have now finished the body of the gun.

Image Notes 1. modified 1" 90 degree elbow 2. 1" 90 degree elbow with short pipe glued into it 3. 1" Tee 4. 3/4" cap 5. 1" male threaded adapter 6. the chamber

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Image Notes 1. 90 degree elbow with a short piece of pipe glued into it

Image Notes 1. this joint shouldn't be glued (yet) 2. this joint shouldn't be glued (yet) 3. 1" elbow 4. 1" Tee

Image Notes 1. once this joint is glued the two pieces of pipe can be remved

Image Notes 1. 3/4 cap with the OUTSIDE primed 2. back of 1" tee

Image Notes 1. 3/4" cap glued in place with socket facing out

Image Notes

Image Notes

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1. this is a joint thats is about to be glued note the use of tape again 2. 7" long piece of 1" diameter pipe

1. 7" long pipe glued in place

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow 2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow 2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow 2. normal 1" elbow

Image Notes 1. modified 1" elbow slid over the 7" long piece of pipe

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Image Notes 1. male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued in it

Image Notes 1. joint that is about to be glued

Image Notes 1. male threaded adapter glued in place 2. preparing to glue chamber and body toogether

step 4: The Stock and The Valve now build the stock, you should be able to figure it out using the pictures, i don't have any specific length measures becuase i just kinda guessed. the stock is one of the few thing that do not need to be glued although it would be a good idea to do so. also you can use whatever design you want be creative find a combination that looks cool. in case you wonder this is what you needed the ( 1x ) .75" PVC tee,( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows, ( 2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows were for... onto the valve, my valve is an orbit jar top that i have modded. normally it would be triggered by an electronic pulse but this does not allow the valve to open quickly so i modified to to run completely pneumatically , there are many tutorials on how to do this for example here is one here is another. if you cant figure out how to mod the valve i suppose you can buy one from here, i know the guy who runs that place hes not going to scam you and his work is very good quality. anyway to install a sprinkler valve on this particular cannon aply a good amount of Teflon tape to the 1" threaded adapter then remove the top of the valve and screw on the valve itself.then go ahead and put back on the top. do not put on the blowgun as of yet. side note: be sure to put the sprinkler valve on the right way, becuase it will only work in one direction. there should be an arrow some where on it indication the direction of flow, remember the air is going to be flowing from the chamber to the barrel

Image Notes 1. stock made entirely from 3/4" PVC

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Image Notes 1. part of the compression fitting 2. other part of compression fitting, note the order i put the part on the hose 3. don't use this tubing its not pressure rated instead use the more opaque kind which is rated to a much higher psi. i have since replaced this on my gun

Image Notes 1. compression fitting screwed on to the valve

Image Notes 1. applying Teflon to the 1" male adpater

Image Notes 1. valve with top removed so it could be screwed on to the body of the gun

Image Notes 1. valve with top put back on

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Image Notes 1. How a Sprinkler Valve works

step 5: The Bolt and Barrel Assembly in this particular bolt assembly the barrel moves with the bolt which could cause accuracy problems if the bushing is not modified correctly. but anyway its a modified version of THIS. the first thing you need to do is attach a 14 inch long piece of 1.5", then use epoxy putty to attach it to a piece of wood. This will make it a lot easier to cut, then you need draw a box that is about 10 inches long (refer to the pictures if you are confused). this will be the line you cut along with the band saw after the box has been cut out you will need to cut off the last inch on each side where the epoxy was holding the pipe to the wood. after the excess has been cut off each side attach a 1.5" coupling to each side. next you will need to modify the 1.5" to 1" bushings so that a piece of pipe can be slide completely through them with relative ease. in a stock bushing there is a stopper at the end off the bushing that prevents pipe from going all the way through. this will need to be ground off with a dremel, you might also have to also slightly enlarge the 1" socket of the bushing also. after the bushing have been modified glue them into the 1.5" bushings. then take a1.5inch long piece of 1" PVC and glue it into the 1" male threaded adapter and insert it into one of the bushings (it doesn't matter which). then cut a small notch into one side off the end of the bolt assembly (this doesn't make much sense so just look at the picture) now we must build the the actual bolt handle; it's one of the simpler pieces. it is a hose clamp with a hole drilled through it and a dowel held in place with a wood screw. it does take a bit a measuring and test fitting to get the hole in the right place, but its worth the time to get it right. after you have screwed the handle onto the clamp insert the barrel into the bushing then put the hose clamp on it loosely. now force the barrel as far back as it can go, you should notice that it can actually go into the other bushing and it is very important that it does. once this is complete, tighten the clamp onto the barrel very tightly. note : you can make the barrel pretty much however long as you want it. mine was 2 and a half feet of 1" pipe

Image Notes 1. epoxy putty 2. epoxy putty

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Image Notes 1. the "box" you need to cut out approx. 10 inches long

Image Notes 1. i removed the PVC from the wood using a 5lb weight but it would have been easier to cut off the last inch on both sides

Image Notes 1. the cut marks 2. cut mark

Image Notes 1. modified piece of 1.5" inch pipe 2. 1.5" coupling 3. 1.5" coupling 4. 1.5" to 1" bushing 5. 1.5" to 1" bushing

Image Notes 1. pipe with couplings glued on

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Image Notes 1. 1" male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued into it 2. 1.5" to 1" bushing

Image Notes 1. inserting the bushing into the coupling

Image Notes 1. stock bushing note the small ring in the 1" socket 2. modified bushing with ring removed by dremel, it has also been enlarged a bit (hard to tell)

Image Notes 1. the hose clamp as the hole is being drilled (1/8" bit)

Image Notes 1. hose clamp 2. screw 3. dowel

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Image Notes 1. what it looks like after everything has been tightened and the dowel is cut down to the right length

Image Notes 1. insert the barrel like shown before putting on the hose clamp

Image Notes 1. finished bolt assembly note the small notch i cut with a dremel that is used to lock the bolt in postion

Image Notes 1. bolt in the forward position

Image Notes 1. hose clamp tightly on the barrel 2. excess bit of hose clamp, can be cut off using wire cutters or tin snips

Image Notes 1. the bolt on the gun yow may need to take out the barrel to screw the bolt assembly into the sprinkler valve (which means removing the hose clamp bolt

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

handle temporarily)

step 6: Scope Mount and Other Add-ons in this step i will discuss the additional parts that are not necessarily required but add a nice touch. my biggest recommendation is paint it makes the cannon look so much better, it makes it look truly intimidating. if you do decide to paint it i would suggest using Krylon Fusion for plastic it gives a terrific finish. i went with ultra flat black but i bet a sweet camo paint job would look really nice on this. when you do paint i would suggest protecting the first 12inches of the barrel other wise the paint will make the bolt very hard to operate (found out the hard way so don't get any paint on it) barrel supports are small pieces of wood (in most cases) cut to the profile of the pipe, they add stability to the launcher when fired and take a great deal of stress off the joints. i would highly recommend you make some for you own safety. i traced the outline of the pipes onto card board then transfered that to a piece of pine that was cut by my band saw to make mine. next up is the scope, my particular scope was made for an airsoft gun (almost identical replicas of real guns ) and it used an RIS mounting system. this meant i needed a RIS rail to put on the body of the rifle. for me RIS rails are very common and easy to find becuase i happen to have about 10 semi working airsoft guns (i got them in trade for a piston valve). if you don't have any buy a crappy gun for $10-$20 off hobbytron.com or a similar supplier. the RIS rail was attached to the gun using 2 hose clamps it took a bit off adjusting but eventually i could shoot the gun pretty accurately. additional items to consider... a "noise reducing barrel extension" *cough* silencer *cough* but if your caught with that your screwed and that is exactly why im not telling you how to make one. a bi-pod, i have one from an AK support type gun but cant find a good way to mount it laser sight, well it would only be useful at night

Image Notes 1. note the blue tape protecting all threads and open pipe 2. blue tape on quick disconnect

Image Notes 1. barrel support

Image Notes 1. barrel support on the gun

Image Notes 1. painted barrel support

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Image Notes 1. RIS rail from a cheap $10 mp7 2. hose clamp 3. hose clamp

Image Notes 1. RIS rail on the gun 2. sprinkler valve 3. stock

step 7: trigger assemlby the trigger assembly consists of only a few parts but ti requires heavy modification. the first step is modifying a short 4 inch long piece of 3/4" pipe. you need to cut two slots in it length wise so a blow gun valve can be inserted into it. it is rather hard to describe so just look at the pictures. the next part is the 3/4" 45 degree elbow, you need to make a hole in it so you can connect a hose to the blow gun. once again refer to the pictures of this piece also but before you cut the hole remember to glue in a short piece of PVC into th elbow. after the pieces have been modified connect the elbow up to the rest of the gun (using the 90 degree 1" elbow that was modified earlier) and hold in in place with a screw of some sorts (so the trigger doesn't twist to the side as your firing). once the elbow is secured on the gun feed the hose through the hole in it and connect up the blow gun valve. then your pretty much done, congratulation's you have a 25MM sniper capable of doing some serious damage If you liked my instructable be sure to vote for it in the instructables launch it challenge

Image Notes 1. standard piece of 3/4" PVC (4 inches long) 2. modified 3/4" PVC

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Image Notes 1. stock 3/4" elbow

Image Notes 1. elbow with a short piece of pipe connected to it

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Image Notes 1. the hole, note its location and angle in relation to the short piece of pipe, its very important

Image Notes 1. blow gun valve in the modified piece of PVC (which is now painted) with a strange type of compression fitting which makes it a lot easier to hook up the hose in the next step

Image Notes 1. elbow in the gun

Image Notes 1. IMPORTANT : don't use this type of flexible tubing (the very clear kind) it isn't pressure rated and if it burst it will cause the gun to fire automatically. instead use the more opaque kind (almost white in color) its rated to 125psi

Image Notes 1. the hole thing connected up

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Comments view all 658 comments

50 comments Add Comment

iluvmatools says:

Jan 21, 2009. 1:22 AM REPLY Yo man just want to say thanks for the great Instructable!!! you have inspired my mate and I and we have developed our own little versions.. my mates being a pump loading shotgun version which is promising and if we get it down pat we will load an Instructable for sure!! just having a little issue with the Australian orbit watermaster inline valve not balancing correctly we have one last mod to try but has anyone else had trouble with the 25mm orbit watermaster from Bunnings?

Majafero says:

Feb 2, 2009. 5:38 PM REPLY

how much do the inline valves cost?? im planning to make a few different versions of these

Majafero says:

Feb 2, 2009. 5:36 PM REPLY

how much should all this cost???

leprik0rn says:

Jan 8, 2009. 8:50 PM REPLY hey i was wondering, is it possible to make everything the same, same measurements and all.. except instead of PVC, use copper. ive been told that copper might be hard to use becuase of the solenoid magnet, or something like that in the valve. any advice? Thanks

collard41 says:

Jan 29, 2009. 2:14 PM REPLY

copper is not magnetic, but it does conduct electricity quite well

colt_python says:

Jan 28, 2009. 1:26 AM REPLY

the project is really impressive, but can anybody tell me what a blow gun valve is ? and where i can get one ? thanks

micronxd says:

Oct 17, 2007. 1:43 PM REPLY

I am SOOO gonna make one of these... (was gonna build a fully automatic CO2 powered BB gun, but this i way cooler) I'm gonna use multiple pressure chambers tho... just so all i need to do between shots is drop the projectile in. thanks for postin!

santdogg says:

Jan 7, 2009. 5:11 PM REPLY

Hey how does using multiple pressure chambers work to make you only have to put the bullets in after each shot?

Dr. Explosion says:

Jan 27, 2009. 1:40 PM REPLY

You would only use one chamber per shot, and then fill them all up at once when they are empty.

craz meanman says:

Jan 10, 2009. 3:33 PM REPLY i was wondering if it was possible for me to only give the valve current for like .20 of a second, and have multiple shots? i want to make a pvc nerf gun (lol)

Dr. Explosion says:

Jan 27, 2009. 1:39 PM REPLY I doubt it, the tank empties pretty fast, you wouldn't have enough, if any, pressure left to get even a second shot in. You would need some sort of regulator to control how much air each shot uses.

Valdravulfr says: I was thinking that when it explodes it shards right? What if you wrap tape around everything so that it stays together.

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

Jan 20, 2009. 3:01 PM REPLY

LaughingM4n says:

Jan 25, 2009. 3:50 PM REPLY

if the pressure is great enough to rip PVC apart, tape wont stand much in its way. thats just my opinion tho

Valdravulfr says:

Jan 25, 2009. 5:57 PM REPLY Fair enough. It may slow down the shrds a little bit though... Heaps of layers however may be able to stop the shards entirely...

awaite says:

Dec 21, 2008. 4:47 AM REPLY

Do u need to be around a air compressor to use this or is this portable?

bylerfamily says:

Jan 15, 2009. 7:55 AM REPLY

If it has an air tank than it is portable.

roman874 says:

Jul 9, 2008. 10:32 PM REPLY

i really want to biuld one of these so can u tell me ware to get the parts like: if u could give me any of this information i would be happy brand name what it is were i can buy it website

Dr. Explosion says:

Aug 23, 2008. 2:06 PM REPLY

You can get everything at the Home Depot.

santdogg says:

Jan 7, 2009. 5:28 PM REPLY

Um does any1 know if you can get these parts in australia? im pretty sure a know a place but i just want comfirmation.

fraggature says:

Jan 12, 2009. 1:52 AM REPLY

You should be able to purchase most, if not all, the parts at your local Bunnings Warehouse or Mitre 10

popomaster says:

Aug 26, 2008. 9:58 AM REPLY

or lowes

lug big lug says:

Dec 30, 2008. 10:48 PM REPLY Ohh ya, and also this gun looks alot like a P.A.C. 3 from xinventions.com with several mods. Really, is it. I wont hold anything against you considering I have never built the P.A.C. 3 but I have the P.A.C. 6 (the best air cannon in the world for intermediate builders) for my 5th grade science fair project. I am surprized that they let me bring it in the school loaded and pumped up ready to compete against my science teachers hairspray powered on... But any how NICE GUN great idea, good looks and design, and great functionability. A electric valve, an interchangeable barrel, and a breech loader (if it does not already have one (I only skimmed over ur instructible paying only attention to the pics) would be some nice mods.

Baldwin1993 says:

Nov 5, 2008. 11:30 PM REPLY

PLEASE HELP!!!!!! Where do i get a sprinkler valve from? please reply asap

cheeseboy says:

Nov 22, 2008. 1:06 PM REPLY sprinkler valves can be bought from most hardwarestores, like home depot or lowes, if your aussie or kiwi bunnings or mitre 10 they cost about $35 and can also be called inline valves so look for both names

lug big lug says:

Dec 30, 2008. 10:33 PM REPLY Just switch out the manual valve for a electric sprinkler valve. You would power it with three nine volts hooked up +/-~+/-~+/- (whith the first + to the valve and the last - to a doorbell button (these work THE best) then to the valve. The doorbell button, the batteries, just about all the pipe work, the sprinkler valve, and wire can be found at Home Depot. The battery attachments can be found at Radio Shack or you can solder them directly onto the batteries. I would suggest that you have a main power switch inbetween the batteries and the door bell to keep the batteries from going dead (it can also be found at radio shack).

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

llamafur says:

Dec 1, 2007. 3:26 PM REPLY

you should shoot unused co2 bottles. they might explode on contact when they hit something

Carl6310 says:

Jan 20, 2008. 11:26 PM REPLY

isnt that a good thing

llamafur says:

Dec 29, 2008. 9:42 AM REPLY

yes. thats why i said you should use.

Bomb Guy says:

Mar 13, 2008. 9:57 AM REPLY

post a list of ammo u can use plz???

llamafur says:

Dec 29, 2008. 9:43 AM REPLY

razor blades wedged in clay. nails wedged in clay. screws wedged in clay. darts.

anikid says:

Mar 13, 2008. 3:14 PM REPLY i would use hobby nails in a empty loo roll tube (cut to specs of bore and nail lenght) place a sheet of loo roll over both ends and secure. this is for my stubby shotgun and pistol rounds (pvc) warning may damage barrle and the round itself may burst under sudden shock. i am not responseble for youre irrisponseble actions p.s spred the word. =D

Bomb Guy says:

Mar 13, 2008. 4:53 PM REPLY

thanks u think i can mak barrel smaller and shoot pellets??? (need quick reply) :)

anikid says:

Mar 13, 2008. 5:27 PM REPLY

yes either 177 or 22 id say 22 yu will need a 2 end caps

irwinner says:

Dec 11, 2007. 8:52 PM REPLY i have beaten a cartridge with a large rock several times and only after about the tenth strike did it puncture, and even then it just kinda leaked out slowly. i doubt the effect would be any different than an empty one

Woolnut says:

Dec 15, 2008. 5:16 PM REPLY

Hey man well done on your rifle I like it alot. =]

HaloFreak says:

Dec 14, 2008. 4:29 PM REPLY

BTW, what does the RIS rail help do?

HaloFreak says:

Dec 13, 2008. 5:55 PM REPLY Read the Instructable before you put up something. Yeah, I sound like some kind of Forum Mod but, it just kinda annoys me when people post something thats inside the instructable. But, if your lazy like me alot of the time, it's air powered.

1204 says:

Dec 13, 2008. 5:32 PM REPLY

does this really work??? what is its power supply

Ryan53 says:

Dec 7, 2008. 5:54 PM REPLY this is amazing. you know how to do this stuff (sort of) and you can't even use the correct whole/hole in your captions. other than that, nice gun

http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/

jake_1289 says:

Dec 3, 2008. 4:42 PM REPLY

been looking into a cannon and i think i found one worth making. How much did it cost you?

ducttapechemist says:

Dec 2, 2008. 8:53 AM REPLY

i am currently working on one similar to this that is using an electronic sprinkler valve. i'll post a link when i finish it.

El Chucko Norris says:

Dec 2, 2008. 6:28 AM REPLY

im in homemade warrior

El Chucko Norris says:

Dec 2, 2008. 6:25 AM REPLY

want to join my group? this is an awsome instructable good job man

Punished07 says:

Dec 1, 2008. 6:33 AM REPLY I was thinking about putting 2 air chambers on by just using a Y and a two ball valves and was wondering what you thought. Is there a better way?

MAXIMADEMON says:

Nov 6, 2008. 10:23 AM REPLY hello irwinner you are the man!!! kudos to you!!! you did it!!! so how about to make the rifle a little heavy!!! steel!!! and just one more cuestion... actually what are you studing?

irwinner says:

Nov 29, 2008. 7:23 PM REPLY

what?

MAXIMADEMON says:

Nov 30, 2008. 9:51 AM REPLY

jejeje forget it hey man do you know whats the last age to get in the air force? sorry i dot know im 7 years

Vinicius says:

Nov 29, 2008. 5:37 AM REPLY

the video is here: YOUTUBE but my question is how to connect the Chamber to the sprinkler valve? apreciated

gsplay says:

Nov 27, 2008. 9:48 AM REPLY

well i want to ask you what type of compressor u using and where do you put it??

blugyblug says:

Sep 13, 2008. 7:47 PM REPLY Wats with all the noobs demanding plans and information. If they thought about it for a second they would figure it out easily. We arent gonna spoonfeed you ya know. Dont ask questions like "How far does it shoot"or "How do i make a silencer" It depends on how much you pump it and how high you are shooting. And if you actually searched google/wiki "silencer" there would be heaps of info telling you how it works. Building it is easy because you know what they look like on the inside

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http://www.instructables.com/id/25MM-Pneumatic-Sniper-Rifle/