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1940s HAIRSTYLES
DATE DUE
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DANIELA TURUDICH \
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SROOAIH
Cal No 23·221
STREAMLINE PRESS
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opyright © 2001 by Streamline Press. All rights reserved. No part of 1is book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or 1echamcal means Including information storage and retrieval systems lithout permisSIOn m writing from the publisher, except by rev1ewer,
CONTENTS
1ho may quote brief passages in a review. ublished by Streamline Press 535 E. 3'• Street
INTRODUCTION HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
ii
ong Beach, California 90802 www.streamlinepress.com
[email protected] 'irst Edition SBN 1-930064-01-2 :dited by Glenn Soberman )ther fine books from Streamline Press are available from your local Jookstore or direct from publisher.
CHAPTER ONE
BASIC HAIRCUTS THE SHINGLE HAIRCUT THE SHINGLE PLUS HAIRCUT THE BABY HAIRCUT THE MIDDY HAIRCUT THE MIDDY PLUS HAIRCUT
oVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN MADE to trace and acknowledge all copynght
THE LONG LENGTH HAIRCUT
�elders. Streamline Press and the author would like to apolog1ze if any
COMBINATION HAIRCUTS
:redit omissions have been inadvertently made. If brought to our attention, we will gladly make changes to any subsequent editions. Distributed to the book trade by lPG, Chicago. Pnnted in CANADA
THE BASICS CURLS WAVES
ROLLS
unending amounts of constructive crit1cism, to my family whose never
POMPADOURS BANGS
ending phone calls showed much support and love, to my answenng machme who saved me from those millions of loving phone calls, to James who kept me company throughout the day...
3 4 5 6 7 8
1 1 14 18 21 24 29 31
CHAPTER THREE
SELECTING THE RIGHT HAIRSTYLE
... and finally, thank you to the my sarcastic, loving, and patient editor
HAIRSTYLES FOR THE FIVE FACE TYPES
and soon to be husband, without whom, life would be a very bonng
CAMOUFLAGING IMPERFECTIONS
thing.
2
CHAPTER TWO
HAIR PARTS
Thank you to all the people who gave and are still givinQ huge and
1
' HOLLYWOOD HOWDY-DO s 12 MUSTS FOR A GOOD HAIRDO
33 34 36 38 39
CHAPTER FOUR
INTRODUCTION
41
BASIC STYLES
42
CASUAL STYLES
60 CAREER GIRL
67
Half has always been a woman's most versatile accessory. Throughout history woman have always taken great lengths to style their hair to make them look more attractive.
WARTIME STYLES
BUT ... it's the 1940s woman who, Without a doubt, first mastered the CHAPTER FIVE
79
FORMAL STYLES & UP-DOs
art of keepmg her hair in place while breaking a sweat. The 1940s woman during the beginning of the decade worked to support the war effort. She jomed the armed forces, helped sell war
CHAPTER SIX
HAIR ACCESSORIES
91
bonds, or wielded heavy mach1nery- and she looked good while doing
92
it. Looking good and not letting her appearance falter was considered
BRAIDS
94
RIBBONS & BOWS
95
SNOODS & HAIRNETS
96
SCARVES & TURBANS
98
FLOWERS
as important to the war effort and maintaining a fighting man's morale as building airplanes and organ1zmg scrap dnves. The war and safety came first but beauty was always a close second. It was during this time that the 1940s woman had to become creative with her hairstyling. Busy and short on time, she needed a versatile hairdo that could be styled Without much fuss, while still appearing feminine. Hair was cut short, permed, and styled in waves or curls. Short hair
101
PROBLEM SOLVING
103
BACK INTEREST APPENDIX A
104
KIT 1940s BEAUTY SUPPLY TOOL
BEAUTY SUPPLIES APP END IX B WHERE TO FIND
108 ilO
INDEX
offered easy manageability and allowed her freedom from having her hair set and styled at the salon each week. Short crops looked professional, were safely away from spmning machinery, looked good under a cap, and allowed her an evenmg look with just a flip of the comb. After the war and with some extra t1me on her hands, the 1940s woman was again able to spend time fussing about with her appearance. Hair was left to grow longer. Styles became more loose, femimne and flattenng.
. '
She lasted th1s way until the end of the decade when Christian Dior brought in the New Look. Hair again was cut short to fit the new dress lines and took the 1940s women mto the next decade. This book was written for all women that find a little bit of beauty and sophistication in the hairstyles of the 1940s.lt's written by a regular girl for a regular girl. All of the tips, instructions, and remedies !except for the modern method instructions) have been compiled from period sources so they are authentiC in nature.The modern method instructions have been developed by consulting With professional hairdressers and as always ... age-old tnal and error. Daniela Turudich
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK This is a regular girl's guide to creating 1940s hairstyles. It uses basic
techniques and practices that someone can replicate at home with a
little bit of practice. I should warn you that the first time you try some of the techniques and styles, it will not come out looking as planned. It's
CHAPTER ONE
going to take a little bit of practice, patience, and elbow grease to get a good looking style. Once you've gotten the basic techniques down,
you'll be able to whip up any period do in a matter of minutes.
BASIC HAIRCUTS
The most Important thing to remember while reading this book is that it's meant to be an 1dea guide. If you don't like a style or it doesn't work
for you, by all means modify it. The goal is to find a period hairstyle that works for you and brings out your best features.
The book begms with period 1940s haircutting guidelines. A period haircut is not needed to do a 1940s hairstyle, but will really make a
difference if you would like to maintain an authentic 1940s look. On the opposite end, if you decide to get a period haircut, in no way does that
mean that your hair will only go into 1940s styles. All of the haircutting guides encompass layers that can be quickly modified to assume a more
modern styling. Unless you are an experienced hairstylist, I suggest you have a professional do the cutting. Next up are the typical period hairstyle elements. This IS the most
important section of the book.This is where you figure out how to make
waves, pin curls, rolls, etc. using both period and modern day methods.
Really take your t1me in learning the various techniques. A little bit of
extra time and practice will really show up in your fimshed hair do.
Lastly I've tried to add a variety of complete styles to Ehoose from so that you can find what works for you. Many of the hairstyles pictured in
this book have accompanying illustrations of pin curl sets, but some of• them don't. If you have any questions regarding the complete hairstyles
and how to do them, instructions for each element can be found in the
basic elements section of the book. Remember any style can be modified or mixed and matched to come up with a style that looks good on you.
1940s hairstyles require haircuts which have layers upon layers to work with. The less layers, the flatter the style, the less period the look !unless you are going for the sleek long mane like Veronica Lake). You do not have to have a period haircut in order to create a period look; however period cuts lend themselves to the styles of the penod more.
Nevertheless, all you really need is good, layered cut.
There are six bas1c haircuts from the 1940s that lend themselves to the fabulous hairstyles of that era. Instructional guides for these haircuts are provided within th1s chapter. Take them to your stylist or try them at home. Important notes regarding various haircuts: •
The lengths of hair in the shmgle and shingle plus haircuts are exactly the same behind both ears.
The length of hair behind both ears for the baby, middy, middy plus, and long haircut is four inches.
For haircuts shingle plus, middy, middy plus, long, the back of the hair makes a "u" shape as it curves toward the ears. This shape was very flattenng for most women and was much in demand.
Be sure to check out the combination haircuts on page 8 for other
variations and options.
THE SHINGLE
THE SHINGLE PLUS
VERY SHORT
SERVICEABLE SHORT
The shingle haircut is about 2 inches long with a soft-feathered neckline.
Th1s is longer version of the shingle haircut found on the previous page.
A modern version of this cut would be the pixie or short boyish cuts. Since the hair is very short m this cut, most styles are going to be very close to the head. Pin curl sets and w1sps would look very cute here and add some style.
This cut is a great length for those that are trying to recreate wartime styles. The hair is cut about 2 1/2 inches in length, perfect to fit snugly under a service woman's cap and off her collar. Depending on how it was styled, this cut can also work for a late 1940s look when the poodle look was the rage.
IMPORTANT NOTE Period styling requires that the top hair be left longer (4
-
6 mches) so
that it can be curled, rolled, or waved regardless of the length of hair cut on the rest of the head. However, this is not a hard and fast rule. Discuss your plans with your hairstylist to determine if the extra length
NOTE
it If your hair is st1ck stra1ght and you don't plan on curling or perming women on best works haircut The you. in any way, this haircut is not for with naturally wavy or curly hair.
on top 1s necessary for your basic styling needs.
EACH OF tHESE
SJDE HAIII PLU$ 5;1o4All POR110N OF N'PE HA!ll
PANELS IS
EACH OF tHESE
1110!-IT
/
PANELS IS " 1
DEEP
PLVS SMALl. POUION or NA�t !!All
/
1"
DEEP.
THE BABY
THE MIDDY
WAR TIME STANDARD
MOST POPULAR
The hair is cut to three inches in length all around the head. This is my
A very versatile length, the hair is cut 4 inches long. This length became
favorite length for wartime ha�rstyles. This haircut was very popular
popular during the war with women who refused to cut their hair too
during the early 1940s and was considered fashionable on college
short but still wanted to show support for the war effort. Considered a
campuses. Women were loping off their hair for the war effort but this
medium cut, this was the most popular length of the decade. It
length gave them much more flexibility with styling than the shorter
offered the most flexibility in styling techniques and could easily be
cuts. When curled and styled, this haircut becomes curly around the ear
worn up or down without much effort.
area. This haircut is still considered rather short and was the standard length for women in the armed forces.
NOTE Ivan of Hollywood was the first to introduce this haircut. It was considered the most flattering and ideal cut for most women of the period.
THE MIDDY PLUS
LONG LENGTH FEMME FATALE
SCREEN SIREN A very Hedy Lammarr length. The middy plus haircut is cut to about 4 1/2 inches in length and extends to the shoulder area. Th1s cut lends itself very nicely to a smooth pageboy or curled fluff around the neck and shoulder area. This is also a convenient length for updos. NOTE All of the prev1ous cuts have a slight curve to them, but here we beg1n to see the elongated "u" shape.
The is the length donned by various starlets including Rita Hayworth and Lana Turner.The length of this cut is 6 inches and comes to just below the shoulder area. This does not mean you have to cut your hair this short to msure a period look. If you'd like it longer, make sure to tell you stylist. A longer length is fine, but make sure not to lose the elongated "U" shape very apparent in the cut.
COMBINATION HAIRCUTS
TOP HALF-WAVE POMPADOUR LENGTH The top hair near the face should be cut eight and one-half inches in length and work your way back until it 1s seven and one-half inches
Combination haircuts are JUSt that - a combination of different lengths
long, near the crown.
in order to get the look you want. The top ha1r, which IS normally left 46 inches in length can be varied with any haircut depending on what
TOP FULL WAVE POMPADOUR LENGTH
your styling plans are. These cuts become very useful if you need extra
The top hair near the face should be cut nine inches in length and work
length for rolls, waves, and pompadours. Any of the following cuts can
your way back until it is eight inches long, near the crown.
be combined with any of the basic haircuts. Mix and match to create
SIDE HAIR VARIATIONS
your own style and get the look you want.
TOP HAIR VARIATIONS
SIDE REVERSE ROLL LENGTH The hair nearest the face should be cut six inches in length and worked
TOP REVERSE-ROLL LENGTH
back until it's five inches in length.
The top hair near the face should be cut six inches in length and work its way back until it is five inches long, near the crown.
SIDE HALF-WAVE REVERSE ROLL LENGTH The hair nearest the face should be cut six and one-half inches in length
l
TOP HALF-WAVE REVERSE ROLL LENGTH The top hair near the
and worked back until it's five and one-half inches in length.
face should be cut_
SIDE FULL WAVE REVERSE ROLL LENGTH
__
s1x
and
one-half
inches in length and work your way back until it is five and one-half inches long, near the crown.
TOP FULL WAVE REVERSE ROLL LENGTH The top hair near the face should be c u t seven
inches
length a n d
in
work
l
should
be
cut
seven
1nches i n length and
1
worked back until it's SIX Inches in length. '
....:::- . -..._
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THE HAIR LENGTH IN THIS SECTION PERTAINS TO BOTH SHII>IGLE AND SHINGLE PLUS
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your way back until it is six inches long, near the crown.
POMPADOUR LENGTH The top hair near the face should be cut eight inches in length and work your way back until it is seven mches long, near the crown.
The hair nearest the face
6"
,..._.
. %"
L.EFT SIDE ._
;::::-HAIR ......
""
CHAPTER TWO
THE BASICS
THE BASICS HAIRSTYLE ELEMENTS, TERMS, AND HOW-TOs
Backcomb - Holding the sectioned off hair away from head with one hand, comb the hair back towards the scalp while still holding the hair with the other hand. Only the backside of the section should be backcombed. The front (or part that will be facing outside) should be left as smooth as possible.
1940s hairstyles are made up of various elements that fit together to create a complete look. Before creating any 1940s hairstyl e, you should understand what makes up a period do and how it is constru cted. The techniques offered in this chapter, including both period and modern methods, and will allow you to recreate any of the styles shown in the remainder of this book. You should be aware of the following terms, as they will be used extensively throughout the book:
Barrel Curls -Curls that look like a hollow tube. Created by curling the hair with a curling iron and not combing the hair out afterwards. Brush Out -After the curls have been set and dried, they are brushed out. Rolls, bangs, and pompadours should be brushed out separately. Fluff - Fluff is the backbone behind most 1940s hairstyles. Brush the hair out to fluff it. Once the hair has been brushed a bit stick the brush towards the bottom of the half and lift up, letting hair fall from the brush to create a fluffy mass. Fluff Roll -A roll made of sectioned-off large barrel curls. Hairspray-There are two types of ha1rsprays called for on th1s book The : first 1s a light hold ha�rspray that 1s used when curling the hair w1th a curling iron. The second is a medium hold ha�rspray that is used to spray the entire coiffure once it has been styled. Please make sure to only use a minimum amount to hold the hair, steering clear of creating a helmet head. For extra hold while dancing, parading, or p1cnickong, secure elements like rolls or pompadours on place by sprayong the base of the element first. Once the base has been sprayed, blow-dry the base to harden the spray. Loose Curls- Large curls that are used to JUst bend the hair instead of adding tons of curl. They are usually used to obtain smoother styles. Pin Curls -Winding a one-half inch section of hair around your finger and then pinning in place to dry. Ringlet Curls - Elongated tube shaped curls. Sausage Curls- Small, tight barrel curls. Smooth-To brush out curled half vigorously to create a smoothed look to the curls. There should be no separate defined curl. All curls are brushed smooth. Th1s styling creates volume, wave, and body without having the hair look curly. Tight Curls -Very small curls with a small hollow center.
intersecting over the hollow center of the curl.
CURLS SEE APPENDIX A FOR CURLING SUPPLIES
METHOD 2
Very rarely did anyone in the 1940s have straight hair. If 1t wasn't naturally wavy or curly, you e1ther had it permed and set, or curled it. That's just the way it was. If you had straight hair and did not want to have it permed and set lor had naturally wavy or curly hair and wanted it more manageable) you did one of the
Wind the curl starting at the base and workmg out. Tuck the ends into pm curl clips) the center of the curl. Secure using two bobby intersecting over the hollow center of the curl.
IMPORTANT NOTE
following:
Make sure that when winding the curl in either method, you
CURLING METHODS
do not twist the sect1on of hair.
PIN CURLS METHOD 1
If the ha1r is twisted, the curls will not go in the direction you
Start off with slightly damp hair and
want them to.
apply a setting lotion spanngly. Section off a p1ece of hair about half an inch
$
wide. If too little hair is taken, the resulting curl will look frizzy, if too much
HOT ROLLERS/STEAM
ROLLERS
hair is taken, the resulting curl will be
If you don't have t1me to pin curl
flat. Half way up the section, place it on
or use regular curlers, hot rollers
your index finger. Stretchmg it, wrap it
or steam rollers can be used to qu1ckly curl the entire head of hair. Curls made m this way usually don't stay m as long as if they were pin curled, but hot rollers are a great
smoothly around your finger. If you've wrapped it too tightly, you will notice having a hard time pulling the curl off of your finger. As you pull the ringlet off your finger, let the hollow orcle m the center of the loop tighten. Once the loop has tightened a b1t, roll the curl down to the base of the scalp and pin in place. Section off a new piece of hair, trymg to -keep each new section the same size as the last, until you've complete your full head or the section you want curled. Pin curls created on the top of the head should be allowed to stand up while being secured by two bobby pins lor pin curl clips)
intersect i ng
in
the
hollow center of the curl. Pin curls created on the back of the head and on the sides should be allowed to lie flat while being secured by two bobby pins !or pin curl clips)
qwck fix if you're short on time.
CURLERS Curlers come in a variety of sizes. Again, start with damp hair with added setting lotion. Use small curlers for tight curls and fluff, medium curlers for normal curls, and large curlers for extra body and wave.
PAPER CURLERS Start off with a plain 8 'h x 11 sheet of paper. Each sheet of paper will yield 4 curlers. Fold in half ?� FORWARD ROLL BANGS The half for these bangs should be five inches long m front and seven inches long in back. Making a rectangular part, set the
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hair as you would for a top reverse roll or curl with a curling iron. When the set has dried, or the hair has cooled (if using a curling iron), brush out the curls, roll forward over the palm of the hand !tucking the ends under), and pin securely.
BETTY GRABLE BANGS
� � � � '
For Betty Grable bangs you need bangs that are three to four mches in length. If they're shorter, they'll frizz, if they're longer the curls will be too large. Section off your bangs by usmg rectangular part. Set the half as shown, or use a skinny barrel curling iron to create
12
the tight curls needed. If usmg a skinny .
"·
section off curl
as
each
in
s
11
barrel curling iron, make sure that you the
8
w
7
4
'
the set has dned, or HOW TO KEEP YOUR POMP LOOKING FRESH
'
Women in the 1940s v;oulo generally get their hair set once a week. In ren-:een settings, they needed to find vays to keep the nairstyle looklng fresh insteact of flat. Here is a r:eriw tlp on
j ust how to cto
that:
First you should comb out the entire pompadour. Then part the ha1r neatly. Make sure that the part is curved in a half-moon shape (with the
curve towards the back of the head), and that it ends an inch above the ears.Th1s is to ensure that when the hair is set, the part will not be seen.
Comb the topknot forward, shape it over your hand, and push into place. Comb the s1des back up. If the roll is flat or limp, tease the hair a little. Tuck the s1des underneat h the topknot and mold into a smooth pompadour.
Of using a curling iron), brush out the curls
and
fluff.
These
are
great
.,,
bangs to use with
'
any curly up-
,,� ''A
do. ,,,�,.
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illustration. When the hair has cooled
'
J \_
-inch
SCARF HEADBAND
measure. Place the gathered matenal at the
A scarf tied up and around the
begmning of your hairline 1n the center
nape of the neck will keep the
front, mark the turban, as shown in B. Split
hair back and neat for sporting
the unfinished end through the center of
events. See Right.
the fabnc up to the mark on the material, so that the ends can cross and wrap around the head. Tie the turban and make sure you have split it so it ties at the most
SCARF TRICK, CIRCA 1944 The scarf tnck is an easy practical way
becoming angle. When the effect is JUSt what you want, hem the unfinished edges.
to control ha1r neatly for active sports and keeps the ha1r off the neck during hot summer days. Make a full-leng th
center part and div1de the ha1r into two strands at each side behmd the ears. Fold a large square scarf diagonally and
arrange headband fash1on across the front of the head. Braid scarf ends w1th strands of hair. Bnng braids together at
nape of neck and tie scarf ends 1n a pert
bow.
ROSIE STYLE A scarf tying the hair back a
Ia Rosie the Riveter. Taking a square scarf, fold in half to make a triangle shape. Place the long, straight folded edge across the nape of the neck. Bring the two longer corners up towards the forehead and the shorter center corner up over the crown. Tie the two longer corner together trying to knot in the center corner. Pin in place to secure if needed. Th1s is also a great cover up while your ha1r IS 1n a pin cud set.
FLOWERS & OTHER INTERESTING
HEADBAND Transform a daytime do into a
THINGS
nighttime do in seconds! Attach
Flowers can be used to liven up any hairdo, add color, and camouflage
your favorite silk flowers to a
hairstyling mistakes. The use of real or silk flowers depends on what look
headband with a hot glue gun.
you're going for. Real flowers are by far the most beautiful but tend to
You can make sure to attach
wilt rather quickly. if you can find a vanety that holds up well, you should
enough flowers so you cover
use them. Otherwise silk is the next best thing.
the band completely, or attach flowers only at the sides of the
Silk flowers can e1ther look really fake or really good. Try to find flowers
headband close to the ears.
that look as real as possible and are medium m s1ze.
Wherever you decide to place
NOTE
balanced and neat. See left.
the flowers, make sure they look The most Important thing regarding flower placement IS to try and create balance in the hairstyle. It JUSt looks bad if flowers are sticking out s1deways from your head. On the followmg pages are a few ideas for flower use and placeage.
EVENING HAIRDO FOR SPRING, CIRCA 1945 Ha1r is swept up into barrel rolls on top. Then an adorable ha�rdo gadget is wound around the rolls. The gadget is wired ribbon, bent into shape, then
ROMANTIC SUMMER DO. CIRCA 1945 Gently waved at the temples and
covered with flowers. Wire ribbon can
topped with curls. This works best for
be found at fabric and craft stores. Silk
hair about six inches long with a
flowers can be sewn on or hot glued.
natural curl or good permanent. Secure real or silk da1s1es in the hair to complete the look. See Right.
FALL LEAVES Silk leaves can be attached with bobble pins to the back of a hairstyle to add back interest. Great 1dea for a fall season look. You can modify th1s look for the Christmas season by replacing the leaves with poinsettias. See Left.
FLOWERS TUCKED INTO ROLLS OR KNOTS Try tucking flowers into rolls or knots at the nape of the neck. Make a roll at the nape of the neck or a knot of short curls t1ed together in back. Pin small flowers around the roll or knot. See left.
PROBLEM SOLVER
Q+A Question: Do I need to get a vintage haircut to create a period style? Answer: Although a period haircut will make tt easter to create vintage styles, you do not need to have one. The most important thing ts to have layers m your hair that you can work with. Question: If I get a penod haircut, do I have to always style my hair penod? Answer:No. A period haircut is reallyjust a shaped layered cut. Having layers
tit�;�t \I '8
allows you to easily style your hatr modern or period.
__,
Question: What do I need to hold my hair in place and keep it up?
_
I �::.'-\..
.\
Answer: Hatr combs and crinkled bobbie pins seem to work the best.
2. AI right 11idc•. �h·m i-J 1.
Juhn�
