(1881) The Dress and Cloak Cutter

TT 520 .H45

Copy

1

THE Dress and Cloak Cutter, A TREATISE ON THE

THEORY AND PRACTICE OF CUTTING

DRESSES

AND OVERGARMENTS FOR LADIES.

FOR TAILORS' USE.

Charles Hecklinger. )r.

BURLINGTON, I

88

I

VT.

.

I^i o)

\^-^

Entered according

to

Act of Congress,

in the

vear iSSo, by

Charles Hecklinger, in the oflice of the Librarian of Congress, at

Washington, D. C.

^^3^^^^'

PREFACE. manner herein adopted

believed that the

It is

Fraclice of the cutting of dresses

in a great

is

of treating

Theoiy and

tlie

measure new.

But few works of any value have been published on dress-cutting, and most of those consist merely of a few practical rules, without reference to an)' theoret-"

and the author

ical basis,

is

not aware that the attempt to base the whole practice

of the modern art on a sure fundamental principle, namely, the combination of a

good construction as produced by a correct measure, has ever been attained. It

has often been urged that the cutter must apply the measure in connection

with his draft practice

;

maxim

but this has usually been only given as an incidental

;

of

never been treated as the main principle of work from which suc-

lias

it

cess springs.

Tiie nearest approach to this attempt, the author has met with,

This author makes the true principle consist in

French work.

is 'in

this,

a

little

what he

propounds as the novel method of combining the hight of the individual with size around.

But as he was unable, only

collection of bights as a necessary into practice, his

work does

he was obliged nor.

conform

making

still

The young

student

an idea

:

if

knowledge.

will not

only be satisfactory

them the principle he already

is

much

and

it is

in the

But there are

dark as

it

soon ceases

more

many

cutters of

to

be diPicult, and becomes

rational

if

it,

is

much

they would,

b\' a little

and svstematic manner.

how

easier than

more experience who

to the true merits of the scientific principles

desirable to impress on this large class

would be increased

accomp-

bv Nothing can be more erroneous than such

dilFicult.

learnt on proper principles

usuallv supposed.

still

to

acts upon, but

often repelled from acquiring a scientific svstem,

an attractive study, and to attain moderate proficiency in is

combination principle

author leads him to believe that an exposition

clearer to

complicated and

it

his

perfect a

greater advantage in teaching those of limited experience.

be found of

thinking

this

to

form but an imperfect system, and therefore

fundamental theor}' of construct'on

lished cutters, b}' will

tlie

an appro.ximate way,

means of carrying

to true scientific

Tiie varied experience of oftlie

to

in

are

and S3stem,

greatly the benefits to them

study, learn to cut and design in a

In the ever increasing competition of Ladies' dress, also, has risen higher conformity with the rules of

in all

branches of industry, the designing

in the last years, to a

standpoint more in

art.

Unfortunately, the mass of dress-makers have not kept up with this progress,

Many

and many have not acquired these progressive principles.

of them yet

pursue the old taught system of superficial measuring, and teach cutting after the few uncertain patterns of ancient date.

Yet, sometimes they boast, with ostentation, to teach cutting thoroughly in a few days by a few rules, as

if

paper cut patterns

who

in their

body could be judged only

the structure of the

Endowed

by a measure of length or width?

with superficial ideas and some

possession, they dismiss their scholars, even those

require practical skill to earn their bread as dress-makers.

place before the dress-makers a change in this slovenly

To

the author undertakes to transfer the tic tailors,

and

to

adapt

Himself a practical with the co-operation of

it

same

to the use of

designing a

tailor of a large

many

and varied practice, he has endeavored, same line, to bring the art of dress-

to

succeed

sentation. strictly

modern

make

this science

a

common

whole mass of dress-makers.

Having been hopes

artis-

friends in the

cutting to the standard of an exact science, and to benefit to the

manner of work,

among skilled garment for women.

principles in use

The

for

years active in the literature of the clothing branch, he

fully in

becoming

practical rules

intelligible in

the necessary

and directions given

in the

way

work, are

all

of repre-

deduced

from our formed theory, are identical with those sanctioned by the best authorities,

and adopted by the best modcr'i

cutters.

THE AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTION. Dress-making it

demands

without question, one of an

is,

technical skill in putting together,

in

The

in its intelligent

to

artistic

character of dresses call into action the best powers of the mind,

To

study and practice.

we must

bring

bear upon

to

investigate thoroughly

as

it,

The

explain, reasoning of a high order.

erable

much

it.

artistic

principles,

and while

profession,

artistic

besides involves so

mental energies and highest judgment of those

taste as to call for the greatest

engaged

it

we

sliall

into use

;

fundamental

observation must be keen, a consid-

power of drawing inferences, and of tracing appearances

must be brought

its

by and by have occasion

and we must exercise judgment and

to

their causes,

ingenuity

taste,

of contrivance, and such a general course of thought and action as must,

if

it is

to

be successful, be dictated by competent and well trained mental powers.

The

changes

style

no two similar ones

continuall}'

may be

we may make hundreds of dresses, and yet Each new one will possess some novel

;

called for.

feature, oflering special interest of the

most diversified kind; sometimes

novelty of the goods, or the style, the

unbounded scope

mand

(or artistic

for fine dress

pains to do

it

well.

making, It

demands of

is

really

astonishing to find

has been remarked

in

vet

how amplv

How never

then

been

knowledge,

is

repays a

it

little

trouble devoted to

deficiencv to be accounted for?

this

admitted requires

that

dress

study.

give

cutting,

how few

take

tlie

our hearing, by one of the largest

manufacturers, that good cutters are seldom to be met with

And

the

is

it

etc.,

Considering the great increasing de-

manipulation. it

customer,

the

like

its

— fine

ones scarcely.

acquirement.

Simply because

other

branches of

commonly supposed

that

has

it

artistic

after

acquir-

ing the simple construction of a waist, practice alone will suffice to

make

a goo.l

experience abundantly shows.

We

cutler.

Tliis

is

It

a great mistake, as

is

who have practiced the greater part of may be steadily occupied, work by such

ually meet with cutters vet w!io. though they t(i

that sanctioned

by experts

in the art.

as

scarcely to be

fit

contin-

their lives,

and

a crude system, to

be mentioned

beside them.

We

have alread}' alluded

construction. to do.

It is

to the

wonderful variety of cutting and mode

with this latter element that

we have now more

of

especially

Although the construction of a

few minutes, yet

sucli

with the same method ing

what the

to

Now it is fering

preferred for study

?

on what grounds does

is

place,

and so superior

This

will

there

is

is

it

i"

dillerent

which ma}' be

the

Theory on which

work

endeavor

to

to

would be

we have belter

by

ought

draft

to

good as

as

The

fact

a best

is

iJiat

is,

b)'

the assertion that cutting

system

is

ters, in a tolerably

of

it

by

taught

th.-

to

sjstems

may be done in difierent ways, may always be left for

proved by

near agreement

its

acknowledgement by

among them

all,

as to

what

work preferable all

this

said, essentially requires to

the best cut-

system

is.

be learnt and

has been the result of long experience, and careful and intricate deduc-

It

it is

his it,

that

of cutting, and although a wide latitude

This sv.stem, as we have already

and

as

set of pat-

often unsuccessful.

individual judgment and skill, yet the existence of a system of

studied.

will

and so

and one wa}-

good

a

and their objection

b_y

like almost everything else that

way

to all others, is sufficiently

tion,

who

an)',

be by some such method as a chart which produces an even and

usually backed

there

In

:

so distinct

and system whatever, declaring

regular pattern, and the cutters judgment alone, is

And

?

But there are others more

capacity.

their

to

object to rules

is

indilierent cutters,

own system

nothing- to sa}' to them, extrept

adapted

who

be

to

based

answer these questions

on. If the}' cons'der Dress Cutting inereiy a thing of chance,

worth)' of attention,

dil-

ident-

being distinguished as the best system?

particularly

argiiethat opinions vary, that they think their

terns

it is

anv particular mode of constructing, which

to all others as to merit

as another,

ways, accord-

superiority rest?

its

commonly be denied,

good

that eviMi

skill,

and which consequently ought

What is

m

might br Icniu'd

be.

not one in particular

ot'i^rs, it

the object of the present

It is first

there

to all

what

number of

a

in

tii^t

whether among so various modes and notions,

ot!ier,

If so,

so simple

gives for individual

it

good cutting might

a natural inquiry,

and delined as superior

ified

the

can be worked

it

cutters notion of

much from each

sii

tlie (Iralt is

the scope that

is

scarceh' possible for anv one individual to arrive at the knowledge

own

practice

or his

own judgment, however shrewd, and he must

as students in other scientific

As no

made

attempt has e\er been

!):•

branches are. to

work out and

to

explain the funda-

mental theor\- of construction, and believing that the thorough understanding of this

is

the best possible preparation lor using the system aright, and lor acquir-

ing an intelligent style of cutting,

how

it

becomes developed

in the

we propose

to state the

theoiy fully, and sho

shape of practical construction.

,v

DEVELOPMENT OF THE THEORY In order that best

we may

hope of success,

let

acquire the following illustrated problems, with Uk;

us consider

it

simplified

as

by certain arbitrary

limita-

tions.

may,

It

be rsserted that by previous observation and expe-

in the first place,

we may and commonly do

rience,

arrive

at

with more or less confidence, to select from

holding

For example, we know

us, tor

This has been

by .measuring the form and the deductions tVom the ditlerence

baild, with as

much completeness

admitted

it is

measuring say

that the proportionate size of a figure

invariably found in most points of relative ratio.

is

4)roved botir

If

some proof

the evidence

to a certain opinion.

34 breast,

riable

some conclusion which enables

among

sequence of

correspond with

tha,t

as anything can be proved

the figure

governed by a law of proportion, the inva-

is

a certain size, then

its

basis of

ot

by these .means.

it is

measurement

;

equally true that most

all

the sizes will

namely, the "Breast Measure".

Granting the principle of the uniformity, what probability

is

there that in

most cases the same proportion may exist? It

evident, unless this probability exist in a high degree,

is

to practical certainty, that either the

proportion

is

greatly exagerated, or

confidence with which

some one consideration

amounting almost

we regard which may

this

law of

exist in the

unilormity of the figure has been omitted.

In

all

cases of induction,

we can do no more

than prove a certain law

to

be

probal.ile-

If ity

our t)bservation and experience be numerous and successtul,

proved

Now

mav it

be a high one,

if

can hardl\' be doubted that

rience and subsequent induction

and

hardly worth while

it is

this probability

And

it

lew they

may

is still

to

we can

we

may be

tiie

probabil-

slight.

are correct in saving that

expe-

b\-

arrive at nothing better than prcihabiHl}-,

enter into any study about

how important

a part

exert.

more open

proportion, will permit us

to

to

question whether a legitimate application of simple

hold belief with anything like

tiiat

certainty, as

many

—

attach to

even granting

it,

all

the premises which they are in the iiabii ol claim-

ing.

Let wliich

modern method,

us, in order to see the difference, turn to the basis of the

lies in

body and

the relation existing between the proportions of the

its

measure. a fundamental feature of the construction of this

It is

method, that these two,

the proportion ard the measure, are intended to act, not singly and independently,

but

in

And

combination.

it is

the full recognition of the fact, carried into

and give

it its

This

superiority over all others.

and

draft, but

still

some degree of consideration

mak'ug

The "Modern bined interest of apart from

tlie otlv.T.

measures

to the

two but

much

to the I'ullest extent.

commands

farther.

It

treatment of both in

establish certain natural lines on the body,

and by which we are informed of the size,

oi

Others will go in rectifying the

we

which

position,

carries the

It

com-

forbids consideration of one strict

conjunction

in

this object

we

For

fact, to construct a froportio7iatc draft by the measure.

produce the

ignore this rela-

the proportionate standard the chief object.

Theory,'' however, goes

t!ie

who

good proportion.

curve.* intended to give a draft of

further, giving

cutters

and .the measures; who rely mainly on a combination

tion of the proportion lines

by

as yet but imperfectly appreciated

is

all

modern system,

the ramifications of the drafts and designs, which characterizes the

need

the construction,

in

and the measures are taken

and thus we obtain certain points by which our judgment

to is

directed to the best advantage.

This principle of ihe combination of is

self evident,

'cver,

a proportionate basis

two objections sometimes brought against

First,

handsome

it is

and the measures

There

and none can doubt the resulting advantage.

said that

in outline,

principles to give

tit

satisfaction,

and appear superior on an to

sacrifice

to

ill

how-

notice.

shape,

perfect in

only perfect Ibrms. are regarded

and that us ng actual measures may lead one

are,

which deserve brief

"correctly proportioned garments,

intended to

more

it,

rin

general

sliapetl

form,

a great extent the

proportionate ajipearance."

This objection is

applied

to realize

,

is

merely founded on misapprehension as

tor a study of the resulting

any advantage the proportionate basis

changes may be required according is

system will show that

indubitably bettered thereby.

to

may

to

how

it is

the principle

fully calculated

possess, while whatever

measure, are only those where the dralt

—

Then, secondly, produce a correct

tit

it

objected

is

— one which

involves a contusion in reasoning. used, the result would be equal lielp will

The

even with the measure,

tliat

cannot be improved by

;

For but

if

it

indifferent

good

give the advantage to those using the

it

cutters,

on.

not al\\a\s

But

practical workers, the additional

new method.

in its application.

individual qualifications of the cutter will

discriminate in cases where

ma}- be proper to adiiere to the proportionate method or not.

Such cases may

be of constant occurrence, but they do not atlect the general ad\ antage of

modern

tiieory,

this

wJKitexer method

however, that the general adoption of the principle should by

i'act is.

no means supersede the exercise of judgment

The

we do

trying;

which

is

sufficiently established

on

a

sound

tl;e

basis, as the result of

long experience. Accepting, therefore, ciatc the

I'hat

tliis

sj'stem as the preferable one,

fimdamenlal theory of the modern sj'stem, which tlie

is

we

are able to enim-

:

proportionate build and measures shall be used combined

that, in order to

carry out most eflectually this

adopt the measures as the most correct means

;

principle of combination,

to get a

and \\

e

proportionate construction.

THE MEASURES. By Practical and Scientific Principles.

We

now proceed

explain the measures

to

— how

them, and

to take

why

taken are practicable.

sucli as are

by

Tlie measuring

modern

the

basis has for

its

object not onh* to obtain the

length, or to locate the main points of the draft, but the measure aught to, at the

same time, give us

a

comprehensive idea of the build and position of the

back and

B\' the relation of the

formed

if

the figure

is

proportionate, erect or stooping, and

and the width of back, demonstrates

the blade measure,

we

lengths as taken,

front

tliis

are

in

at

figure.

once

in-

connection with

and with

to a certainty,

no cavil of doubt, what the figure requires.

But as we take the measures we

and relation

shall explain their value

to the

draft.

The most from which

it

important part, which we proceed

measure from and

make

neck, and lay

to

a

mark

there with chalk.

to

arm over hips

held firmly and level

While and

at

at

upper edge

it

we mark t!ie

^i'

at

two points

rest across the

back, and

doNvn over the aip and

I

and (hrectiy nnder arm

back

them

nuw

:

these it

is

at

hip,

two marks necessary

correct.

THE BACK LENGTH.

measuring, which

down

tape at socket bone, and measure actual length of the back.

i}

two important places, and

at

Illustrated by Figure to

arm

rest close

square atC, (see figure

that care should be exercised in getting

Now we come

locale

to

is

both back aiul hip.

position

in this

Thus

at side.

find

we find wiiere the socket bone is at Then take the conmion square and

across the waist in such position that the long

the short

as F,

First,

to.

If the waist

waist and according to st}le,

we

is first

to the

i.

the back

mark

:

for this

at waist,

which

we applv

the

will give the

should be required longer than the natural

also take the length

wanted without removing

the tape.

Next we for skirt.

In

appl}- the tliis

case

measure

at the

we pay nu

length from waist to floor

;

for

waist mark, and take the length to floor

attention to the st\le,

'uit

merely get the actual

should a short dress be wanted

the right proportion, and also add for

trail.

we can deduct

in

)

FRONT LENGTH.

2

Is

taken from

tom of waist

measure

tlie

Illustrated on Figure 2. same point at back, down in front

it

Giving as

inch in front. ;

it

It

should not be drawn in too close

it

does the position,

F at botTliis

we cannot be

arm, but about

at

too careful in taking

be taken rather easy.

siiould

WIDTH OF BACK.

3

acU

to

of great use, and must be taken correct, not to close on such shoulders

is

as sink in at collar bone. I

shoulder

of

with mark, and from front of arm straight down.

at side, level

From

centre

al size

without regard to shape of dress measured over.

seam of back E between shoulders

ARM-HOLE

4

arm

to

This must be the

P.

SIZE.

Close around arm-hole, but easy.

HIGHT UNDER ARM.

S

The

best

way

to

take this

have a small square made, which havinor a

to

is

sbort tape measure attached at inside corner can be applied under arm, and close in front. Tiiis square also luij AiioUier inciies of front,

Place CO

ui-'t^l

tins

tlie

Hold

tape fastened on

and hanging down, by which square under the arm so that

it

upper edge within two

its

measure the length under arm.

adhere close, but not so firm as

at

it

backof arm with

Ai.-o .et the

the

left

hand, and

at the

same time take hold of

down

to the

mark

from H

to

|.

measure of hight under arm gives a sure guide

s'nnulders, the

measure

case, and in both cases the

will

arm

be longer

showing

for

down

;

the

if

as in the

wnen low shoulders

tlian

is in it

the IS

same

c;ise

are

ihu

tape backwards over

th.e

smooth, and measure

the figure be full over blade or not.

tJiis

figure,

to

centre of back over the

must be taken

of shoulder blade, and

delerniines

measure give us a clear idea of the

4.

position, slip the

liiglu'st part if

to

located in different positions.

is

Illustrated hy Figure blade, taking notice that

F-

THE BLADE MEASURE.

6

While the square

waist at

and measure

(see figure 3.

arms, and therefore also the shoulders, are high up, or low liiuli

at

person extend her arm straight dovvnwanls,

wrist, for the length of sleeve,

of

to

person measured to raise the shoulder.

the tape with the right hand, and measure

Tills

to

and

whethtr

in

close.

This measinx-

connuclinn

erect or stooping.

wliji

front

BUST MEASURE.

7

The

square hciiiy yel

front, that

same

the

as

i-ait ol boj^oin.

by

position,

be straight and no wrinkles

it

body, over the highest hist

m

slip|»ing

tlic

t.npc

round

to

.;rm, take the distance to centre of

lUid'-^r

shown on

ligure 5, from H to B-

l-'-i '.h:s

be taken loose. 8 nil

This

is

taken close under

bosom and blade, and must be tape does not drop b;dow the

and with

tlie viev.'

It

being

tlie

lal^en

around

tlie

medium

close

shLni:^!r-r

of preventing

the customer in taking

EAST MEASURE. rui,

.".

,«ucii

blade, or

it

body, over the

— be sure

in

would give

an occurrence,

it

is

to

it

will be evident tliat

9

It is

well to

small

a

part o( that

tlie

measure,

better to stand hchind

:l.

it

needs carelul aliention. (see

fig.

3.)

THE WAIST.

This we take around the smallest part of the waist, wliere it

it

measure by which some imjiorlant points on the construction

draft are pr.;t!uced,

sharpest, and

fullest

taking

it

is

defmed the

should be taken rather close.

become

proficient in taking all these

measures

in a correct

way-

Appl}' the tape smooth and even, neither close nor loose.

10

THE HIP MEASURE. Figure

Over the highest are close to body-

part of hip

3.

and closely taken,

for all

garments now worn

THE PRACTICAL DRAFTING OF BODY WAISTS. Ry Measure as taken on the Body.

We duced

in

shall

now

biggin to explain the

Illustrated

v.y

and

Figs. 6, 7, 8

9.

system by which dress-waists are pro-

conformity with the person measured

;

we

shall try

and make

by the use of diagrams illustrating every stage of drafting, and explain

clear

this

so that

it

none may go amiss. In order that

we may more

measure with which

to

intelligently proceed to

draft this elementary

pattern,

work, we

and

this

shall give a

measure being

taken from a mass of such in our book, and one very nearly of good proportion, will bu

found as good an example to connncnce with as any.

The measure we of back 6|,

Arm-hole

Front length paper. in

order

It is

to

shall use, 16,

Now we

iSi^.

always

is

Length first

better, as

Jlreast

_^3,

undei-

;ivirj

draw a

it is

7,

Front of arm or over blade io\.

about one inch from the edge of

easier to be rlrawn upon, to use pattern

produce the pattern, and

cloth, both in time

Inie.

Waist 24, Back length 14^, Width

far

more economical than

draft

to

it

paper

on the

and material.

F

^

F

E;Fig.

Fig 7.

o

o

Having drawn edge

0,

and

upwards on ure) which

this line, as sho'.vn ni figure 6,

at right

is

angles with

it

measured

front hne, the distance 7 inciies,

and dot

breast measure (35) equal 17^- inches

on

all

tiill

;

h inch, this will

make

pivot,

sweep down

to D,

to

one-half of breast measure

developed forms,

Now

placfc the

where the sweep cut hne

Next, place the straight edge on

which represents the centre of back. back (i4i inches), and from A draw a trum

A,

from

B,

B one-half oi

always

is

it is

necessary

to increase

more nearly meeting

tape at B and using point E as 0,

we make

point D,

(see fig-

81

•^

ure 8.)

lowei

E draw a Hne over to

the draft easier for such form, and

the requirement of a slim build

off

under arm (5lh meas

measure from E over

this

its

grown iorms and large persons, but when we

draft for children or very indifferently it

From

a point at

Next mark

to D-

for height

£, (see figure 7).

also at right angles with line E 3. then

sulhcient for point B

we make

draw another one

then raise point 2 above N

I

and B and along

it

draw

a line 9 A.

7rom D upwards measure the length

os

line over to N, v/hich latter is 2 inches over

inch and form the curve of back neck

;

again

place the square on the front edge in such a

reaches over

it

may

just be at the

both front and back of one height, or as should the front be higher or lower,

From

ing.

I

R

we might say

name of

be more or

but

less.

J.

manner of

lines

;

this

measure

is

10^.

From

In the centre between the points

up

at the three points.

draft-

on top of back draw a straight

line.

B also forward J

and H mark

Then from

R place one-quarter of the arm-hole measure (16) which 2

:

would demonstrate a more erect or stooping

"front of arm"'

and draw perpendicular

to

This gives

good proportion

in

to figure 9, for a further illustration of the

placed the width of back to

to

wlien the long arm

tliat

as point 2, figure 8.

B to H on line under arm place the length of blade measure, or as

mostly called by is

it

may

position, according as the deviation

Let us now turn

manner

same height

is

I

upwards

4 inches, and from

The

we

next step

near

and

2,

draw

will take, is to

der line above straight

inside at S because b)-

and draw the

As

measuring

seam

side

make

thence

troiri

style has greall\' to

t'rom 7

We

generally 4 inch.

to the line,

do

we

From

6 at blade tbrin

make

a short

at Q one-eighth, of breasi

In practice

we

lo 2

wc

of the waist

tit

sidchudy

Tlu> seam however

to withiji

in

sweep

inch of back

\

From

at Q.

measure

mches wide,

some garments

is

it

essential to have the

waist close to measure.

From

to

sweep from corner F by

for neck.

3,

Take

1

and H

Q to

1,

give

changeable

it,

make

it

^ to

it

|

also take a

and apply

^7

inch below

measure down it

from

Q

to

Now we which

is

it

draw

point

at

point U around \b.

(see

Then

tlie

arm-

jO;.

from Q towai"ds 16, and hx

f

Q

Y,

which

the line, then to

a straight line as

a suitable

inch

Then from

beyond

at

Yet

above or ij.

tig.

by going out bevond 10

inch to Y.

bottom of waist

is

\

inch

going back

T the front length, less

tVom T

front, to get the

to 11.

correct

Wc

can

Icnir'.'i

to T-

In the middle from E and H,

and H mark point

it

easier

is

would an-

line, either

a

sweep

tix a jjoint at

Measm-e from

inside \ inch to T-

width of back, and

most cases

order to cnnstruct the

good shape, or about

inside of front line, curve out towards E ^ inch

over line, draw

the width

inches.

in

size in

Measure from

finish, sa}'

the arm-hole look a

Form neck by dropping

it

F measure over to sweep

practice in measuring.

to intersect

the width ot back shoulder and place

and

to

which gives C:

2,

short and stout, 16

liltie

neck

arm, and

to 16, the size of

point, then curve front shoulder

distance to

at

F square with front draw

below as the measure happens

hn!e past

it'

;

This can easily be learned with a

better.

here give

c;\:i

is

majority of such sizes measure 15 inches.

Should the neck appear slim, 14 comes nearer swer

line

for proportionate build, 2|

for the

it,

than

the least.

use mostly the neck measure, which

arrived at without taking

5

bottom li

;il

line

this less

leacl,

to

place the front measure from P up towards Q, deducting from

of back, and

for

we draw

:

the shape of the back,

wiiii

any position, without adectiiig the

H

to

measure

hjul die

the back

runs over the straight

it

inch

J,

|.

to S-

only an average shape as an exanicle.

now

by ciirving the shoul-

first

;

from U form arm-hole towards S where

also

thence curving downwards and below

line,

back

the

i inch, near arm-hole, and curving back to line again

lint:

mark

a point 5

— and also

in the

middle between

8-

have come

to the

placing the darts

most

in their

difficult

part of the dress

proper places.

— waist

designiii'

24

We we

shall take a proportionate build,

shall

manner

of getting their size

with

measure.

tiie

We

have a

line D 0, that

If,

same

the

it

is

The

one-half the waist measure. to

is

in all cases,

size of waist of 24 inches, one-half of

by measuring the

value

and place them accordingly.

show under what conditions they require changing

15 inches, while

size

suitable

which it

is

ought

Later on

in position, yet the

and

harmony

Now we

12. to

in

find

be only 12, or

deducted from the length

0, gives the

be taken out in one or more darts. as in the case of

be no darts needed the size of breast

:

many men,

there were no taper to the waist, there would

but as in every case of female form, the difference between

and waist

is

considerable, then

it

becomes evident

ference must be reir.oved by darts, in order that the waist

may

that this dit-

set close.

Q

t

A

7/

As is

this difFerence

between these two

y

sizes determines the vrdue of the darts,

it

evident that the fuller the bosom, and smaller the waij-t, the larger will be the

chirts

and

;

in a

contrary case, the

.smaller they are

flatter the breast, as

As we have already

leaves 3 inches, these are taken out in

each of a size of one-half of these

and

Then Irom

.!{

L.

From

5

draw

.1

place the size of darts

to 7

and K

Thev should

to 6

3 inches, or

Divide the

shall voe place them:' [{

•

spa.".(;

From

line to Kftjiially

also from L to 3

between P

4,

\

See

inch higlier.

gis'es

L-

on each side of line, that

and

where

which

into 3 parts,

8 one to

2 darts,

Now

equal to li inch each.

and draw ihem

not reacli up ovei" ^ of the distance from K to

arm-hole can be

to the waist, thr;

stated that the size of the waist should be 12 inches,

which deducted from the length

points

compared

needed.

^^

of an inch

diagram.

one nearest

I'lie

5-

also a fciiowing article

is

'ike the

j.bi.nii

the height ol

darts in different builds.

Now line at G-

Then out

},

it

remains only

to finish

Also drop point 9

the wrdst line from

(;ne-q!ip.rter

divide the side-bod}' from

]]

-unning

to C,

it

f

above

below.

.d)0iit

the centre between

J

and

I

to G,

taking

inch curve.

This concludes drafting measure,

is

'.he

waist to

measure

;

produced idenlic.diy ihe same, only

measures may be of difTerent

sizes

;i;id

lengths.

and as every deviating

size,

in

so

whatever the far

as

the

LARGE

SIZE DRAFT. Fig. II.

The manner

of drafting this, as well as

similar to those already explained,

it

all

kinds of waist-patterns, being

seems quite unnecessary

to

go over any

lengthy discussion.

We

The

lie

make

clearer

points being produced

"igures 8

iuid

will only

and

lo.

some few

points in regard to drafts of large sizes.

by measures, by the same process as used

But one point we must be careful about, which

shoulder broad on such large sizes.

In fact,

it

never

outside of the line at U above S for width of shoulder.

is

is

in drafting

never to cut

necessary to go over

27

And waist 34

again, as

arm

front of

tlie

measure by which

sponding

I2r,

to tlie

was reduced

this draft

is:

Breast 42^

;

width of back 7| arm-hole 18 size over blade to height under arm 6, and front length 20, we get a size corre-

length of back 15

;

;

;

;

increased measure.

We

;

find also that the distance of line D

being 20, and half the wai^t but 17, an excess of 3 inches

to

be taken out

in darts

at t'ront.

Then sizes,

it

again, the space between back and

will

answer better

to

first

get a close, smooth

and one somewhat forward of G and between G and to

closer over

fit

At one

point

all

i

It is

to

size.

This

is

fix it

up

enable the waist

is

that point P

this point as

changed,

we

start

by the measure.

also well to take the length from top to bottom at front on these sizes, it

should be cut

In the matter of darts, in order that the form it

will

caused by the erect position gen-

Then from

get the dis.ance of Q, and

in order to better regulate the correct place

tage,

put in tvo cuts, one at 6)

This

large sizes deviate from ordinary build, this

inch below line.

accompanied by large

our measure up

P.

and along the waist.

should be lowered erally

dart being so great in large to

fit,

seems right

better on

bosom

to

place the darts

-so that

to.

may appear

they reach well up.

— a ibrm most necessary on this build.

to better

This

advan-

will close

Body-waist Lengthened Below Waist-line. Fig. 12.

This diagram shows two

different

shapes

These deviations

bottom.

at the

of shapes are easily produced, and need no particnhir exphmation.

But

lengthen the waist so that

to

and

size of the hips,

make

the

it

amount

will

be of a size

correspond

to

in the right place,

is

what we

witli

the

now

shall

clear.

Clinging the

to put

way

our idea of thorough completeness in our work, befcue giving

to

of extra increase of size of hips, which on

proportionate forms

all

generally 12 inches over waist, v/e shall find where this extra increase

We

with.

will take the standard of waist proportion to

is

is

met

be 12 inches less than

would be accompanied with hips measuring 36.

hips, so that a waist of 24 inches

This would not always hold good, and some would say that a greater difference

would be the general formation, but would be

fij_!;ures

would be 6 inches on This amount each

indi\-idual,

is

still

in the

Supposing then

right.

strictest

our

proportionate figure,

be 12 inches, there

this diflerence to

a side to be added.

not distributed

around, neither

all

is

it

distributed alike in

number

the forms are so simihir in a large

of cases, that a

rule jviay be laid dovvri wliich will suit a large majority of forms.

The

rale

is

of the increase

Now

that the largest

is

at 7, 8,

figure 12

shows a

there have 3 inches to

amount of increase

is at

9 and 10, and one-fourth each

b^:

draft for designing aftd',.*d

the sides, that one-half

at front

and back.

one of an increase

on one side, and ih inclies

at

We

in length.

back and

at

i.]

front.

From amtunt back,

've

At Iv

to

ad

1

h

we go >in

o\

out to hip

down

^ inch

On

the side seams.

on back of scam, and the same

the side bod}' seams which

join

the

inch for a good curve.

front the line

any increase

curve

B

curve

ot

to

is

run along the straight line as on the diagram, with scarce-

speak of; bat the darts are drawn down each seam, havino- a

i^ inch.

Now

it

remains only

have a sum of 3 inches

When

a great

to

to

add on the side-body scam.

dispose

of,

amount of increase

side-body narrow, and

make another

Tliis will be,

giving a strong outward curve of is

needed,

it

is

always desirable

cut farther forward, like

',

J.

i.^

as

we

inch.

to cut the

In this case

29 the

amount

The

'"lottom

ot" liip

size

can be

can b2

jlivl.l^'.l

between

tlic

re„'..lateJ to ranc\- or style.

two openings, giving ij

for each.

THE PRINCESS STYLE

Dr^ESS. we

After having drafted the dress-waist to measure, separate the back side-body and front, and

The method

here used puglit

to

learned, for every sack style garment

(See

produced

Then draw along

15.)

fig.

length at C a straight line.

requires to be lengthened as

according

it

apart

— that

is

to the

requirements

If the dress it

needed.

is

and thoroughly

be carefully gone over

is

the back pattern against a line at 0, and

6, 2 inches. to

cut

those separate parts design the

garment.

skirt for this

Lay

b}'

same way.

in the

away from back

the

made in The width is

ot a close or loose fitting

this line at waist at

and

pattern,

also from B

a train skirt, this line is made may be an

bottom

at the

garment, and

average of 12 inches.

From E to D draw a line, and on both seams curve somewhat out over hip. The side-body (Fig. 14.) is laid also against a line, having its upper part Curve the seam from down on line at A, and D being i.^ inch away from it. beyond the

line

From B from waist

The

i?,

inch and back to B-

to C is the to C a line

front

is

laid

same

down

as

D at bottom draw a straight

Measure from curve over

at

back and

2

or 3 inches more, then

draw

shown, point C being

i

inch from

line.

From

C to

line.

over to E. 25 inches, and draw a line from E to

E.

thence

hip near H very strongly for room for the hips.

The diagram its

as the

curving also over the straight one.

is

drafted to a shape verv nearly proportionate, and would in

length and width be an average, but as the fiishion changes suitable changes

would be needed, especially

The

darts are extended

so that they will give a

in the

width of the lower end of the

down below

skirt.

waist line, tapering to a sutEcient length,

good shape.

Apph' the hip measure, and make take off on the side-seams, to accord

the dress 2 inches more,

witli

it.

then add on or

THE The and

SKIRT.

drafting of skirts for dresses

fully defined in text books,

to

is

my

a subject which has not been so clearly

Most

mind, as might be.

all theorists

have their own peculiar point of producing a pattern, some of which are quite wanting

in a

sound basis, either as regards balance or shape.

The much

superior

way

balance and correct shape,

is,

of producing a skirt, in order to attain a perfect

undoubtedly, a mode similar to that used

b}' tailors

Such a one, we have always found, would answer and give a skirt superior in hang and shape, and always

in cutting the skirts of coats.

every

made upon

call

ready to be adapted

The diaoTam which a

it,

to

any

skirt is drafted,

First

draw a

tom

at waist

Now

I

method

line like

such a posit on

thai the

away

I'rom

Then

B.

it

along

it

manner

in

sufficient for

to line, as at A,

same

position as

from shoulder point as pivot, sweep from R

for

be

a

lay the pattern of front of waist on the line

at D. in fact in the

Then

arm may run over and touch

will

:

middle of breast be close

the lowest wai?t point on side. short

however chanc;eable.

and the following explanation

clear understand'ng of the

in

style,

Figs. i6 and 17 will give an illustration of the

and the bot-

when

drafted.

to front for top line.

R

is

lay the square on the front line so that the

the curved line near 2, second dart, then

draw

upper edge.

Next measure the length of

skirt

from E at square line down

B

to

for full

length of skirt.

Although the measure so

little

that

it

will

is

taken at the back, yet

answer equ

iliy as well for

we

find the variation to

be

Yet some

the length in front.

prefer, while measuring, io take the length in front as well, which, of course,

gives additional

From X st}le.

This

Some

securit}'-.

as pivot for

sweep B

to

S and P.

is

bottom

size at i*f

ladies even prefer a skirt so scant as onlj- to

whole circumference, which indeed It is,

The

a medium size of 36 breast, would be

measure 2^

regulated by P.

j-ards in the

rather small.

of course, self evident that stout ladies would

a size of 3 j-ards or over, as the size of the person room3- garment.

is

yard from B to

is

in

the

same

ratio

need

large, or the desire is for a

34

Having placed

point P,

\vc put a

While

in the direction of F-

long edge, and move the two together

you form

P

to

and

la}'

a square line

from P by

upper edge from R

its

it

upper part of

to F

to P.

Now draw a

till

Then draw along

F to R on waist point of front.

and also

long straight edge on

so placed lay the square along

measure from F

line

from S

to R,

and place the same distance from P

to R,

which

is

for the

Divide the distance S B into 3 parts 1^ inch and form the curve.

and

to S,

back breadth.

Break

for the 3 breadths.

oft'

at front

too at C

Divide the distance from R to E also in 3 parts and mark them. out the quantity of darts, whatever they

Curve the seams and draw

lines

may

be,

from top

to

between bottom

5, 6, 7, 9,

to

Then and

take

at 10.

separate the ditTerent

breadths.

This manner skirts, or

will

produce a

skirt for a

walking dress, and

is

the base tor

For a

skirt longer at

back, or a train,

this

method

differs

only in putting

side-body on the upper seam of skirt in the manner shown by the diagram

running a

beyond S

all

any garment which reaches below the knee.

line

down by

;

tiie

then

the spring, and giving a slight curve, and springing out

to the extent of train

wanted.

In this case

it

requires to be longer from

the second breadth back.

The back

is

drafted with a straight line, the

length increased from line S to conform with

it.

same

as a short skirt, but

its

SHORT SACK JACKET. Fig. 19.

In cutting sacks, the attain this,

certainty of

We

all

good

its

upper corner

part be, for regular built,

Now

trace

at the

inch

i?,

neck

rests

away from

it

on the

down

shown

the line as

neck, measure

to

curve gradually out toward the straight line

length desired, and from

tlie

style of these jackets

and get the

—

being close, and

and the lower

at C-

Then trom

inches above C begin

should be a continuous curve.

this

for

to 2

i

line like

on a straight

line at 0.

along the pattern, following closely the edges.

all

at

The

points,

case of a dress-waist.

in

take, for instance, the pattern of the back, lay so that the

fig. 18,

be good, we retain

if it

we would

as

fit

a good balance, and in order to

is

a belter guide than the body-pattern to

nor never can be

is

In using this,

follow.

same

there

consideration

first

giving a narrower eiTect.

make the back too wide for this reason make die bottom from From the point at waist i, draw curved line to E.

well not to inches.

;

garment

If the

intended

is

to

be heav)' and used as an over-garment, certain

additions are required at top. on back, on shoulder and at sleeve, \ inch.

F commence adding

curve the line

Draw

with

inch, increasing

]

a line,

i

inch from B.

trace the side-body,

Having got the

as pivot

then curve over

it

considerably

go

in at

like

from

ment

,

i

inch.

From From D

fig.

with point H resting on

it,

it,

In cases where the hips are

20.)

i^ inch.

side-line

measure the length as pro-

at waist,

tVom

to A-

at hips,

to N-

From

in order to

i

to

between D and

N draw a straight

have room

for

i

at

line,

them.

the bottom of side-body as wide as the back.

the back

it is

is

cut

always well

front (fig 21,) is to E.

Lay

i

to

D on the side-body

The

is

sweep from A

it

When

at

right length, fix a point in the centre

and from

garment,

(See

and from D

duced by the back, then curve the

Make

till

and place the s'de-body against

very large, the the distance from B

waist,

it

we add

to E.

and the waist being

Now

it is

B to E 6

i

inch from D at waist, and take a inch,

drawn

little

let it

is

intended as an outside

and then curve the

side line.

Draw a straight when intended for a thin

in the following wa}'.

the front pattern against

but for a heavy one,

it

of the width of the side, therefore then

it,

be | of an inch from

it

at breast,

and

i

line,

gar-

inch at waist.

37-

New bottom ever

From

trace the edges of the pnttern.

Place the side body from H

at E.

it may be. From shoulder

to N,

the waist hi front

and by

it

draw

•

garment add on out at N

I

Now the side.

at

sweep from F over

point A as a pivot,

For an over-

to E.

shoulder \ inch, the same at neck, one-quarter at H, going

inch.

take the measure of the hip

body measure

;

find out

how much

2

the

back and

inches over for seams and ease.

This

to be,

and must be the

will give a point

Then from N through this last point draw a line to the bottom at F. Draw in the same darts, or when it is not wanted close one it

running more forward

Sometimes

side-

as they are cut, then apply the balance from the front over towards

This measure gives the width the sack ought

measure and

then

a line to

get the length to F where-

also a cut

is

at top.

taken out under the arm of i inch

size.

is

full

below

N.

used, and

LOOSE SACKS. Figs. 22

and

23.

In continuation of our endenvor of giving every style of cut.

and 23,

worn

made

illustrate the

for a

tlie

diagrams 22

of drafting a loose sack, such a garment as

morning jacket, and well adapted

is

usually

also for an out-door garment,

when

out of suitable material.

This, like a line at

and

manner

lix

and

all

2

the point

our designs,

inches

is

drafted

away from

where the length

by the body

pattern,

this line at the waist. is

wanted, as

at 6.

the back to 2, and next with a graceful curve to point 6.

which

is laid

on

to

Next measure down

Now

from

draw along

39

From

as a pivot

sweep from 6 over

the back in a simihir position as

it

Now

to 8.

occupied

lay the side body against

when being

Make from

a point from the waist, 3 inches, as

through

7

draw

3

Should we want one closer it

closer in size at the waist,

after

the

drawing the

one from the lower waist point of the side-body this last line,

shown on

we adopt

fitting,

and

arm

This gives the back

a line to 8.

which gives one having a

close

fit

and draw along

drafted,

the pattern on top of back, over the shoulder, along the

to 7.

the diagram, and then

for a loose sack.

same means, but only make from

line

7 to 8,

we

also

draw

and cut the pattern out by

to 8,

and yet giving enough

at waist,

material to cover the hips and the skirt well.

In drafting the front, take the body-pattern and lay

may

touch at A on top of the front

inches

away from

Now

trace

at

neck, and

let

it

on the line so that

it

the waist be 3 inches or 2^

the line at C.

all

along the pattern

at

neck

— over shoulder— along the the arm

hole.

For a loose sack we add

inches over the body-pattern at

2

point at side, while for a close sack

got

b)' first

placing

2

we draw from

2 to X.

It is

2,

lower waist

evident point X

is

inches at waist, and then drawing the line for the loose gar-

ment.

Next apply seam on

the

Add

back along the

Then sweep

the front.

the lap in front

1J7

front,

which

locates the length of the side-

the bottom from the shoulder point as a pivot.

inches for single, and 2h inches for double-breasted.

LOOSE OVER-SACK. Figs. 24

We

here introduce a plate of a

and

25.

Loose Over-sack, which

is

cut long and suit-

able for a Water-proof.

The necessary lies.

similarity of this with figs. 22 to give

The back Over

side.

the

any added description.

is

laid

away from

P,

where

At

it is J^

front

so close that

will

it

show where

seems hardly the difference

for

an over

\ of an inch, and for one of heavy ^ of an inch.

From

inch larger,

we

is

Yet we

the line 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches on the

back and shoulder,

garment of Hght material,

and 23

we draw

also on the arm, there

is

added,

a straight line through 3 inches to bottom.

lay the pattern ^ inch from line at breast, and 4 inches at waist.

THE LONG OVER-SACK. Cut by the Body-Pattern.

Figs. 26, 27, 28,

In cutting a long sack, two points have to be decided

added

for extra size

Garments made of

and second, how much

;

skirt is

is

used

to

29.

what must be

needed over hips

light, thin material require less size

goods, and therefore the cutter's judgment

and First,

:

to set well.

than those of thick heavy

decide what additions should

be made.

But

trace the

Draw

us begin to draft.

let

back, resting on a line at

back seam, and

down

length wanted

to

a line like

and li inches from slightly curve

bottom, at B-

it

8.

Then

below C down

From

lay the pattern of

Now

(See hg. 26.)

line at C.

to B.

sweep over from B

From to F,

apply

and make

F 6 inches from B-

The increased

size if

give

I

a broad

At R add

i

narrow

for

is

back

is

curved a

The

the

trifle

At

over the straight

;

add

At

inch lor thin goods,

for

pushed back by the arm.

on back

is

an over-garment,

This

is

because

it

for if

it is

done,

E-

coming

Apply

I

in h

inch at bottom

the back at

and

l\.

On

a

Make

and one inch from line

Front.

F,

curving over hips.

a half inches to

D

we draw

|.

the blade

;

then at centre H E sweep tor bottom.

Fig. 28.

straight line lay the pattern so that the centre of front rests within

line,

and bottom K

the side seam

be

cover a

bs-ttom F to A 6 inches.

find the length Till':

inch of

to

Fig. 27.

Then draw from S along side-body to and Should the hips be full, make the d'stance from E one and The side-bodv point D is moved over J inch, and from line

will surely

we must add more because

a straight line place the side-bodv. touching at S.

bottom

it

more width

requires no

up more.

The Side-Body. at

heavy.

for

calculated for an ordinary pro-

but on a round back, on the contrary,

;

that will take

l

over the hips both seams are

but on flat-backed, very erect built, Vicver add any extra width

between the shoulders,

On

\

line

line.

addition in width at E and

surface

E

back as per diagram.

portionate person

flat

but can be

inch over back pattern, which makes back wider and better suit-

able for this style of garment.

Then shape

such as are worn now,

skirt,

desired.

i

i

inch outside

inch, then trace along s\e E to C, and tVom C ot U-

J

draw

43-

Next

lay the side-body on C, and N on F to get length.

Then measure over

hips on the back and side-body as cut, and lay the balance ot the measure on front, line,

adding on

2

inches extra, and get point P;

and curve beyond

it

now from

N through P, draw a

h inch for the side-seam.

Add on shoulder ^ inch, advance point A \ inch avd form gorge from A as pivot by F for bottom to g. Draw

front line J D K to B

I

to J.

Sweep

over front, and then add for lapel for single or

double-breasted, according to the style wanted.

Place darts farther back, (see

fig. 3,)

The Sleeve. The

addition on this

is i

sleeve seam, also i longer, as

and make them

I

inch less in size.

Fig. 29.

inch on back seam, ^ on top and i inch on lower

shown on diagram.

WALKING JACKET. Figs. 30 to 34.

The smart looking jacket of now much worn, especially by

IF

whicli

given a design as

is

)'oung ladies.

It tiierefore

With

:ippearance, which can be produced by finely sliapeci lines.

becomes

necessar}- that the

seams

looks

it

when

clone,

should have a smart

view

this in

it

back should have no sudden round over

in the

side-bod}-, but only a gradual curve.

The seam on skirt, it

it

sticks out

it

detracts from the style and spoils the

In order to produce a skirt

fvrm R I

to

back

plait is

produce

l^reventing the tendency of

Our diagram

is

good

close-fitting

when

the dress, for

^vhoe garment.

i

The

inch from s'veep.

shrunk

waist seam

made

is

giving more room over the hips, and

in,

gaping behind.

gives a double-breasted iacket

to a single or to

a

to

these essential Tualilicauons. the top line

v.itl)

dropped down

inch longer, and this extra

changed

To

shoulder must be iiigh up.

necessary that the lower edge or bottcm. clinj in

is

any

.

as

tins,

is

evident, can be

style of cut-av.'a}/

In order to produce the pattern, having

ihe bodv-pattern, as cut to anv measure.

the

all

Oi

good

qualities of a

rin^ pattern

we

fit,

we

take

place the back on a

drawn on paper, touching al C. and moving C a.t bottom of the away from the line li inch. Then curve tlie back seam a little above C,

line previously

waist

adding over C

\

inch, thence running

down

an extra length where

m'

St

it

B at bottom to length wanted.

to

In measuring for jackets, alwavs take,

li-side's

would appear best

the nattn-al waist length, also

that the se;

m

should be;

this is the

prominent part of the hips, and

is

generrdly 4 to 5 inches below the waist.

seam

is

placed from the waist pattern

This extra

lenj^t'i

of waist

down from

C to the honk.

As

an over garment,

this is

goods ma}- be of

and

at

light or

arm hole add

down

to 0.

to the

bottom

which

this

The

flat

| to

h

;:f

l""!-.!;-.!

and hook.

at this line,

making up.

as the

on lop of back, on shoulder

At F add a

trifle,

going

about 5 inches.

is

Before proceeding further,

back the width of back must not be increased

Next take the side-body, which place against ing

an inch for

inch from the jiattern. thence with a slight curve

distance from B to E

also lor the plait

observe that on a

allow

amount over wa>;-pa;tern.

latter point is i

at E.

Then add

we

heavy material.

and the waist point being

i

a straight line

mch from

,

let

us

at F.

point H touch-

line at B, for all ordinary

46

But on

forms. tlie

such forms whose increase of hips

all

we move

waist,

draw along the

down from B The top

i]

to i

wo

until

at the full

slight

rectify that of

side-bodv.

and

a

pattern,

}

moved over

is

outward curve

the

sweep

straigiit

Then add

^

inch

at D,

and

34.

it is

within | inch of the line

the front line outs'de ot the body-

:

all

along from top

then the shoulder, adding

At H we add

h inch,

and

at

N

i

\

to

inch

inch.

curve, and leaving the piece between the darts pretty nearly

t^.:it

R spring out the

to

liip

at

line.

measure, and deducting from

i

and measure

in front,

it

the width of

tlie

back and

adding to the measure

to R,

inch-

2

point R in or out to the s'ze.

apniv the side-body at H

A,

Figs. 33

body

apply the length of back and

give extra width to the jacket,

down

In a ciosinf; -position touching at R

to the front.

F \ to ^ inch, then from F

much

:-aovir:g-

Then from

Then distance

extending them downward, by curving below like our diag.,

side-body, apjiiy

i\i)\\

The

at H-

.;,i;t.s,

Next take and

Now

to A.

Then draw

neck, adding

;ilso tlie

Frou: N

straight.

to

lay the front, so that

thr-nce along the ra'm-hole to H.

;

giving nut too

it.

it

at waist.

iiicii

this will

;

Draw

Draw

es,

and on

E,

J

inch

b(jtlom. to C

line

and

at breast,

touching line

K,

round of the blade, and from thence gradually

The FoRErART. Draw

more than lo inches over

arrive at a point i inch inside of lower point of side

and down with a tlie

is

the line at this point i^ inch.

regulated by the length on back from D to button.

is

of the side-body point

draw the seam touching go inside

away from

body from

side

N

to

the waist

to R, to get the correct length,

top of shoulder point as pivot, F.ay

tlie

square

and leave

and up along the seam an inch or two.

at front line,

sweep from A on side-body, and touciiing

at first dart,

past R

draw the

from thence forward. for lapel,

making

it

2I inches at waist, 3 inches at breast at top.

Also lurther regulate the front shoulder by the back.

Drop the

From

skirt line

below the sweep. position

from the

R to back plait

Then

Now by

dart h inch to P.

the

sweep by curving

it

downward

it

plait line

draw the

by laying

plait to the

bottom

tlie

inch

square on the spring

F.

measure the length by the back, and sweep the bottom from F

A, the

i

place the sidi-bDdy on this changed line in a closing

on waist seam, and draw the

of the side-body and along

front

th'st

we change

shoulder point.

Finish by curving plait line over straight h'ne

h

inch.

to the

THE CIRCULAR. Fig. 35.

This garment, although made up

sUU

in a variety

In order to design them, the waist pattern

This

on a straight

laid

is

bottom of back,

Then

pf different

styles

and shapes,

the simple construction, as given in the diagram.

in all will retain

line close at D

also used as base to

is

work from.

and about two inches inside

place the front closing at sleeve head on shouMer E. and placed so

that a right-angled line from

will

run along the front

to K.

For a very large, loose garment, having a great deal of

down from

we can move

the shoulder,

hanging

drLi])ery

the front pattern out uiore,

letting

still

touch at E closely to back, which of course causes point P to come closer

Then we For

have

will

always about

moved

line at

oi'

C-

draw the

to

tVom S front

front line

inch distance from

i

way

;

that

The

be farther away from back.

by

the balance drafted

tlu:

done, and the

is

which

closer towards the centre,

is,

biea.~l to K. Icriving

01

J.

a close-hawging garment, the opposite to this

the otiier

it

back.

ro

front line then

same manner one

is

car.ses

drawn by the

Now

as another.

pf.ltern

;:•.

P

^x>

;jo;rit

and

front,

trace nljrg

tl-.e

pattern for the top of back, and both shoulders and neck, to R.

Then draw

a line from

between the two points

back point

in the centre.

to

P,

From

Next measure the length desired from

Then sweep

the lower

reach

to.

circle

needs straightening both

line, as

shown

From R

at

to S

B and

we

Whatever is

size,

always the pivot

Sometimes

down through

it

is

These nation,

and

to

to front at

at front,

K

a line to E.

wherever

or

B,

b}'

it

F as pi/ot.

mav 'J'li:^;

square with from and

liat

k

is

';aken

bottom.

and whether close or loose-cut circular for the

is

drafted, the f.oiut

lower circular edge.

advisable to cut thetn with a seam

which obviates

slight modifications to

to

shoulder point and dot

make

K-

the centre to bottom.

fold of the goods,

on back

edge from 6 back and

t'ront

retain the curve of front pattern, thence Lhe tVoii"

along the straight line

L

at

on

this centre

a

Then seam

ruti-.i-ntr

the centre of the back in

o\'er sl-oiihler is

laid

on the

back.

can easily be determined without further expla-

any practical cutter any variations may

at

once occur.

TALMAS, OR WRAPS, Fig. 36,

Are,

general construction, similar to a circular, as regards the shoulders

in

and neck, and used

The taps

also the covering tor the back.

Therefore a method identical

is

designing them.

in

only difference

is

where

attributable to the front,

coming down low and cut square, or when

it

is

it

cut the

is

cut either with

same

in

shape

at

front as at the back.

After the pattern has been laid on the line,

and then curve

it

to line

we

follow along

it

to the waist,

again.

Drait the shoulders and neck, and when it is intended to come to the front, we simply follow that of the waist pattern, and form the lower part in any shape we desire, while the back may retain the shape we have designed on the diagram. However, when we want one cut in a very close form, and simply hanging down from the shoulder, then the front line deviates so far, that it starts from the

shoulder point, and takes the curve of front

to waist,

thence curving inwards to

bottom, similar in shape to our diagram. It is difficult to

only point pattern

;

is

give any close rule to adhere to in forming this garment.

the shoulders,

the lower points are as yet only a matter of taste, and must be pro-

duced by the judgment, and there are such a variety of it

would be impossible,

eral idea.

The

which must be produced by the shoulders of the body-

in a

work of such

different changes, that

limits as this, to give

more than

a gen-

THE SLEEVED TALMA. Figs.

and

;)7

38.

The garment here represented takes bn more the nature of the Dolman but is one made genei-ally of hghl summer goods, and merely a wrap, it may be ;

as

it

placed in the same class as Talmas proper.

back and a

In order to

manner

drai't

it,

we use

of drafting gives

Lay

has, as will

It

the

draw along

back on

liie

body

and ease

tit

to 1.

Apply

notch, and

when

a wide sleeve

ther out fiom back, and

ordinary distance

line to E

and

the top of the sleeve,

down along

Now

Then make the hack at D as Then at C to F place 5 inches.

wanted swing the lower part

is

when

a close sleeve

making

front

it

t'--..t

when

it

the

seam

probably will come

to

make

to

that from S to

as wanted,

in front of

SO-

Then

produce the sleeve and the back

in

i

An

it

may

draw from 6 along at

and

front,

sweep from

S

;

or

if it

bottom of back, then sweep

one piece.

I

full

at

draft the sii.ipe of bottom as

of

the

back

may

the front any longer than paciern sleeve at

have the French back, then draw from B towards

siiould

the sleeve far-

sleevtt-h.ead

as plvor,

to the

to

inch, thence to nothing at

ot

desired, nearer to back.

to S-

skcve should come down

be desired, but be sure not will

is

a little scanter than

from shoulder point of back

wanted

It

to

i

F.

when it is in such a position Having placed the sleeve

is

measure 24 inches.

This

From

to C-

place your sleeve pattern in such position, notch of sleeve on the back

.N'exi

S.

say 3 inches.

it,

Ninv irom B draw a nice curved

F,

Then

inch trom D-

line.

Also draw along top of back and shoulder.

from

i

wanted

the length

no

state that

in worliing as this.

and

a straight line touching at 0,

wide as the style should make

is

French

seen, the

and we may again

pattern,

such a guaranty of

the pattern from

C draw a straight

curving

Ije

circular, loose sleeve.

and

E,

Should at

it

be desired

E take out a space

F.

ahvavs be borne

in

mind, whatever the

st\ le,

round of sleeve head, but, on the contrary, lake

only retaining the hight, which

is

essential, otherwise

it

be sure and

off the

would

Jiot

round

pull

retain

in front,

down on

the

shoulder.

Turning now

0,

and be

to the front,

drawn on

previously 1

1 inch

lay the front pattern of waist model against a line

the paper, and let

away from

it

touch on

line at waist H-

llie

middle of the breast, as

at

53

Now

trace aJorg the pattern, retaining the

Now

arm-hole seams. Just drafted,

ought

We

allow for fullness of top

the

C-

This

inch.

off

is

Now

determined

for hips, will bring

Then mark to is

Now made

in

front

arm seam comes, which

supposing

to C,

Make

and swing the bottom out

head measured

this sleeve

from F on front shoulder

inches

7

;

leaving

a dot on C, place the

to 0.

This

will

be easily

nearly far enough, for a curved line drawn along the side seam oi

if

forepart, from under the

comes

neck, shoulder and

front,

(we mean the loose sleeve

found by measuring the sleeve head.

inch to be worked in on top of the sleeve.

I

sleeve on C. notch on dot,

S

i

we would measure

8 inches,

where the

so that the exact point

)

De notched, will rest on

to

same

lay the sleeve on the back,

it

arm

to waist,

and thence sprung

out, as

is

customary

about right.

the length

by the length of

sleeve, for

where the lower part

at

found point D.

curve your bottom line of front to

many

different

ways

—

it

may

suit

any shape desired.

be cut perfectly circular

;

The

front

or again straight across from D towards the front, about half-way, and then

ing a square-shape piece of point A.

is

or longer at A

;

mak-

THE SURTOUT. Tlate Tiiic 15ai_k.

Take from

the waist pattern and lay

bottom of back.

line at

down

ij, thence

E

full

to

Now

D-

Draw from

length.

i.

on a straight edge

it

Draw

tig. i.)

measure from

to 0, the

on shoulder

at top \ inch,

a straight line, then curve

From

make

E to F

back

the

R

at

it

l

away from

it

I

it

it

The Front. and

a straight line like

C

inch side

to F-

3.

Then

\n\ the pattern so that the

away

from and larger than waist pattern,

},

inch of

Also draw the shoulder, making

and

i

along

at

inch for ease at waist

Make

Now

i

same

size,

to

Extend the

see

shown if

darts

in the

the size

is

down

diagram

at front,

correct

and on side bodv

at

:

to

inch

the scye;

to ? an;!

] at

N add

h

length at

E.

at

it

to front to get the

first

D-

slioulder

inch, to

i

piv.it,

Having then

let

dart to D.

front,

shape.

the

giving^ach seam

.Now

last

a slight curve,

apply the hip measure

should the draft be too small add on

F also.

Ni^w draw

at S-

to E.

making shoulder-point

bottom of

to give

i

adding only seams.

seam of side-body on

sweep from E

and

over pattern, and als3 add

Draw

lapel.

the front be square with front line from

as

I

thence curving out

:

the darts the

lay side

the length,

neck near

it

it,

to F.

i incii in.side at natural waist,

it

the front line of breast

top

F

i

thence curving

at i,

Fk;.

B.

and

I

fro.-n

to

draw the

at top,

Then from

upper part of breast lay within

point,

for flat

\

and from A

at A,

Finish the line at bottom from E

spring to E.

for

inch

i.',

the outlines.

inch outside from

'

draw

scye

Fiut

the arm-hole.

qualities required in a perfect sleeve,

that

it,

the

be the cause of a general derangement

carefulness

be based on the form of the arm-hole, and

it

the position of the tbrm.

must touch

ist, that

must be

it

where the wearer prefers

the wrist,

to

way

possible by any other it

may

it

conditions of a perfect sleeve" are.

the measure taken,

natural,

ano

facilitates or hinders the

of measuring than ours

2d

;

,

just the it.

when

length

a thing

the

arm

im-

hano-s

and any extra width produced

in front at the cufi' at wrist,

by fashion must be added, and should hang back

3d, the top of the sleeve

;

requires to be of a size proportionate to that of the arm-hole, to enable the wearer to

her

raise

arm

like a cylinder,

upwards on the

horrizontal without too great a strain

and thus causing a drag

;

when

4th,

and not lay

flat

—

arm

the

is at rest,

wai.st,

the top should curve around

can be produced by a judicious distribudon

this

of the fullness.

The curved inspiration,

line that

forms the top of the sleeve

is

not the result of a capricious

but an operation based on geometrical principles.

For an

explicit

and comprehensive demonstration of the theory on which sleeves are desitmed, and the particular shape inherent

to

them, would require more space than

our disposal and belongs to a more elaborate work a suOicient guide for

all

;

is

at

vet our explanations will give

practical purposes.

The Manner of Drafting Sleeves.

We in front

can see by looking on the diagram,

and back by the perpendicular

are apart is

one-half of the scye.

And

the breast-line., to the line at top, R,

This square we adopt as 16,

and square

which

is

at top line

for a 16

a

B-

scve 4 inclies

lines,

guide

Now

is

in

tig.

40, that the sleeve

which on

that from the line

is

bounded

proportionate s'lapes

all

under the arm, which

one-fourtii.

drafting the sleeve.

from

to point 4.

we go down

We

first dra\\'

line

one-fourth of arni-holc,

Now and draw

divide this distance into 4 parts, which will lines across at ever}' point.

Now

case 8 inches.

from the two points. line

48-

H

Now F

is just

is

a line from 4 to B,

From

to

make them B

is i

apart

i

inch,

of scve. or in this

and make point C

in the

middle

thence draw a short straight line to H, square with

from C one-third of the scye, or

2-|

inches.

take the tape, and H as pivot, sweep the top curve from F each way-

above H

Now

draw

Next, from

in a

perpendicular

line.

from 4 measure length of arm (16)

to point

16.

At half

the distance

)

59-

make lines

line i-J,

bottom and

Now From be

will

The

Now

to

in at

make width

i

one inch

straight

to

form the front lines by.

Square with

Also draw back

line P i6

draw

and E

L which must

line lor

to st\le (5 inches. ;

finish top

L, in a slight curve.

down draw

curve from D

Curve the

front

to 4

to

and back seams

a line to P for lower sleeve,

like

diagram.

and curve

it

so that

inch inside of top sleeve at P coming to 16.

distance gone out from E to L

draw undersleeve from A

Draw from A down The sleeve must be in

i

N parallel with front.

turn to diagram 41

be on line A

it

and dot

from B down

some below L and

to front

is

placed inside from E

near

4,

dropping

\

to

below

A to get point A. line.

a line perpendicular to K, thence to R. close as that is the prevailing style, and should be curved

A-

Point E sews in on back notch, and point sleeve, with some added for fullness at top.

at front,

they being half of the

«

.«,

CM

THE DOLMAN. Of

the garments which are usually

all

made by

" Dolman."

The

That

is

difficulties

when

to say,

should

it

placed inside

body,

more

} et

back, in order

at

must have such

ii

striking in this than

The

well and be well made.

lit

To

should give the form of

it

undoubtedly the

is

may

are associated with special features, which

said to belong entirely to this garment.

wrap, and yet

the one presenting

tailors,

the greatest difficulties, both to the cutter and the maker,

a

is

a loose

body, and while a piece of tape

around the waist, and hold

to tie

form

the.

almost be

begin with, the dolman

it

is

close, to the

hack, as will retain the peculiar cut,

in the

anv other garment.

shoulder, in order to place the sleeve seam in the proper place, high up,

must be cut narrow, which counteracts the tendency of the sloping form of shoulder,

more on

so liable to occur

The

than any other outside garment.

this

sleeve should have just the right proportion of fullness,

hang gracefully without drawing.

The

so that

it

may

front should also be narrow, so that the

swing of sleeve be forward, and although the leading features must take on more or less the

same form

in

each garment, yet there

variety of style in the various details as round In order to

overcome the several

difficulties in

take up the original " Dolman," which

By commencing be better able

As it

will

to

we

from

to

I

to C place the

tern to E

Now From

opposite

4 and F,

narrower. is

perhaps, none with greater

designing

this, let us, first ofall,

sack form, with a flowing sleeve.

more

will acquire the principle

and thus

readily,

design intelligentlv any other style.

back

F

is

laid

lengtii as

against the back, close at top, and about

From

a loose

be seen on diag. 42, the back

From

at B-

with this,

is

is,

and square sleeve.

on a

inches from

2

and

line at 0,

Now

wanted. it

i

inch from

lay the side-bodv

at waist, point 2.

B to C draw a straight line, and trace along the back pattern is

^ inch

inside

of pattern

Draw from F around arm-hole From lower side point I inch.

from E through dot

at

2

draw

at

at 2

point G,

From

to H.

making

place outwards

a straight line,

the shoukU

r

H side-body point of pat-

which

2

inches. will

reach

to

0.

4 as pivot, sweep lower line from C to D.

We

now

take the forepart, diag. 43, and lay

centre of breast, and ih inch

away from

along the'edges of the pattern, so that

it

it

at F-

will be

it

within

While

I

inch of line at

;j,

in this position trace

marked out on

the paper.

Then

62.

tVom C up to lo add

Diaw

^

and draw the sliouldtr from lo

inch,

i

nothing

to

inch outside of H to top of front, K-aving the straijfht line from H

at D.

down-

wards, the front line of dolman.

On

the side add

i

inch at

Now

E-

place the hip measure from the front to N,

on side, deducting the width of back, but adding 3 inches more

From

point N.

Apply

late

by

Then from

the back at E to get the length.

sweep iVom B

to

A

tlie

bottom

Also appl}'

line.

and

fix

C shoulder point as pivot

back on shoulder, and regu-

tiie

the front shoulder at 0-

it

When

garment

a closer

is

wanted, having more shape

seams of the back and the front are curved inward about is

for ease

E through N draw a straight line, which gives point B-

at side, then the side-

inch each, and a cut

i

put in also under the arm, which suppresses the extra luUness above the hips.

When

the pattern

On

is

drafted, the arm-hole

diag. 44 a line

inches from

has been

Then

0-

is

also pared out about i inch lower.

is

drawn and the sleeve

laid

down

i| inch from 5,

trace along the round top of sleeve.

made narrower, add over

the top of sleeve the

When

and

5

the shoulder

same amount taken

off

shoulder.

The This

seam

front of sleeve

done, that

is

it

may

is

curved out from the pattern

much

not wrinkle

at inside

are crooked up or while being carried in a muff.

the crooked sleeve, should be careluily looked

good sleeve be produced, one that

Form tern

forward

This sleeve

to

is

Let us now turn

in like

When

the

back as It

is

it

A

arms

at,

for only

any desired shape.

way can

in this

To

is

a

bent.

get the correct

point

2

the

same length as the sleeve

pattern.

This diagram shows the sleeve attached

to the

dolmans.

back has been drafted as by our previous explanations, then lay

and place a pin should be

to

at

and

it,

so tiiat the notch on

notch to hold

it

in place.

it

will be

on the notch of

Then swing

it

forward, or

produce the right quantity of fullness wanted.

will give a loose sleeve

close to 8,

the

This peculiarity of dolmans,

t'urther in the construction of

the pattern of the sleeve against the back,

3 inches.

any other.

to fig. 45.

back, and giving a step

i

when

near elbow, and move the bottom of pat-

oi sleeve

Then make

2.

sewed

point

hang smooth when arm

will

the lower part of sleeve in

length stick a pin at centre

at

of arm-seam,

when

an}^ distance farther

close sleeve will be produced

it

lays in such a position that the back

away from

when

it

seam

point 8, will give a larger fullness.

is

swung back

so far that the-

seam

63-

The

overlaps S more or less.

Whatever

point 8 one inch.

Now and

stick

held up in a

5 so far that

seam from H

the front

Then by

pattern at 5.

is

to 5,

and

the shoulder point of back,

put in, the front point

of one-half of the armhole. to

position of the sleeve,

elbow, then swing the sleeve it

tor-

when

is

It

i

is

sewed

the length of the sleeve-

fix

sweep tVom

make the lower part of the sleeve any shape called The front, fig. 46, is produced the same as diag.

the sleeve

covers

middle of forearm

to the tiie

gives the shape of the arm, crooked as

it

it

mutl'.

Now mark or

and down

the pin at notch without disturbing

at the centre, point A, opposite the

it

ward toward

wou'd be when

desired, the subsequent drafting is the same"

is

trace along the top from N to F.

Remove

seams.

farthest point of closLncss

size

5 to

the back at

1,

for.

43.

shows turther how

It

which

in at J,

front

latter is the

amount of

will thus give the regular

fullness

be laid over the sleeve-head.

The

lower sleeve

the armhole from

to

i

Then

other sleeve. Of course

it is

is

cut

6

to

by the upper, along the

from 6 down evident the line from 6 cut

from

front

within 3 inches of N, and this

it

movement of the arms. We now come to fig. 47 for

to 5, to 5

i

to 4,

sewed

is

and along

any

in like

and curve over tVom 5 to 4. remain loose, which gives play

to the

further

a

This figure being

illustration.

drafted by the explanations thus tar given, and the sleeve being designed,

now

will draft the

line

to

French back.

blade, thence to

2

at

This

is

done by starting from

which

waist,

is

about

2

F,

we

curving a

inches from the back

and making the whole width 4 to 5 inches. From 2 we curve outward The distance between C and is made 5 or 6 inches. toward Q and at bottom. pattern,

I

I

Then, again, till

at waist

start at blade,

we have

i.^

inch space, then

This taking out such a

where

it

goes on

sleeve pattern to

to r-

from

J,

and dot

cut,

i

come back gradually

inch at

is

2

J,

to line

again atQ.

gives the back a closer shaper

where

draw

a dot

to inside

is

made.

to

Notch point G 6 and J. above the

to flatten

it

at 6,

Thence go down

elbow, and front of sleeve

2

going inches

2

inches above where

it is

being drafted by the same process as diag. 43,

we

On

at L.

represented too low down, fa fault of the engraver)

should, to give the correct shape, be front

separate from the line just drawn,

Curve upper part of sleeve from G

From

also.

diagram point L

The

to

match the narrower back, and begin

inside of pattern lully

this

and begin

.

It

drawn. will

now change

65-

it

to a ditVerent

back,

down

to

draw

it

K and V;

from K

When is

the front notch

is

we can make

or

R and

to

the back

cut from Q to

is

goods

is

it

I,

made

fiLf-

sewed

is

in.

by

4/'

narrow as shoidder

as

where steeve

to

From

first

fit

the

S dratt

yet a larger opening for the armhole, and

wide enough, but

found too narrow, when

it

|.

is

to the front,

where

it is

represented by

when

then cut in one piece with the front,

in cutting a large or

it is

which

clear the extra width cut away,

is

must be added

This

the letters R, D, B. Q-

the liack and sleeve of is

Q-

and

the piece R, D.

from D which

line

Point S

to S-

harmom' with

in

style,

drawing the curved

the

long garment the material will be

making

better that the piece be cut from R to B,

a

straight seam, in preference to adding a three-cornered wheelpiece at bottom.

Before cutting the pattern by the S,

E and V,

till

last lines

the front against the back closing at P (see

weight on

Now,

it

to

hold

it

for a close

To

is

fig.

fit

taken off

at 0, E,

and a

line

produce the lower sleeve, draft

lower point

and move

6,

us retain the piece at best done

by laying

49,) and at bottom N.

amount between the curve

it

drawn from

Put a

it

to

at

The

thing

first

towards the back,

it

b}-

X,

to

X,

bottom.

out on the upper sleeve, then

sleeve above the front pattern', in order to handle at

is

over the dress, the piece taken off the back and, added

afterwards be traced out on another paper.

it

let

This

in place.

the front, will be found too large, just the

which then

drawn,

the tinder sleeve has been drafted.

is to

raise the

it

can

upper

better, then take hold of

folding

it

upwards

till

point

H of the sleeve be resting at A of forepart, then C will touch D, which must be

marked.

which

While

it is

in this position 5 will

under sleeve from C

giv-es line for

to 5.

Draw along from A F. Then curve over from 5 to

touch

to

F,

4 for

lower edge. In sew'ing

it

in the

sleeve from C to 5

opening

left

is

from F

armhole, point H goes on

sewed on from

to

is

taped.

to F-

to A,

Point

point C to is

sewed on

and the under to E,

and the

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

014 062 017 8

«