TEST KITCHEN TIPS Simplify Your Thanksgiving, p. 95
FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO COOK
TOOLS OUR
FAVORITE CHEFS Can’t Live Without
4 TAKES ON
C raz y- D Deelicious PO R K C HO P S GET CREATIVE
with
LEFTOVERS
Buttery CRUMB-TOPPED CRUMB-TOPPED
Cake, Cookies, and Muffins
OCT/NOV 2017 No.149 o.149 www.finecooking.com
HOLIDAY MAINS V EG E TAR VEG TARII AN S WILL LOVE
N I N W I A FREE Y C E L E B R I T C R R U U I I S S E !
D E TA I LS Pa g e 118
B ’ ’ .
Moree delicious Mor delicious results every time. Ev Even en the first. Wolf ’s precise control of heat and airflow airf low takes guesswork out of cooking. Tell Tell our convection steam oven what you’re making. Its digital sensors know precisely the combination of steam and dry heat to make even daunting dishes a piece of cake. Or a tray of soufflés, souff lés, as the case may be. wolfappliance.com
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J O I N O U R
EX X PL OR E OU R R EC I PE S E on
COLAVITARECIPES.COM
CONTENTS octob er/novem ber 2017 issue 149
features
56 Vegetarian Holiday Three experts create delicious, meatless dishes that can play a starring role at any holiday feast.
64 Make Fennel a Favorite Become a fan of its anise flavor in four fabulous recipes. By Martha Holmberg Holmberg
70 Dressed Up Pork Chops Seared, stuffed, pan-roasted, and breaded and panfried, these four recipes will soon become some of your favorite go-to go-to dinner options—even for guests. By Ronne Day
78 Chefs’ Fa Favorite vorite Tools The pros tell us what kitchen equipment they love the most and why.
80 Get Rolling Pogaca, light, airy rolls from Turkey, Turkey, are wonderful with, well, turkey; turkey; try them plain or stuffed. By Maura Kilpatrick
86 Streusel Usually a supporting s upporting player, player, this crumbly crumbly,, buttery topping gets its chance to shine in desserts dess erts and baked treats. By Karen Karen DeMasco Crisp fennel pairs with oranges, black olives, and pistachios for a refreshing salad; see p. 69.
6
/ S E P T
2015
CONTENTS oct/nov 2017 issue 149
28
30
96
28
97
27 27
95
departments
27 What We’re Cooking Now Guava, Chanterelles, Watercress, Mustard Greens, Parsnips, Pears, Pecans
in every issue
3 WA WAYS YS WITH...
34 Leftover Turkey
Transform extra Thanksgiving turkey into a glorious pasta, a satisfying
28 Go with the Grain
Wood is the material of the moment, bringing durability and warmth to the kitchen and table.
B OOK S T H AT C OOK 32 The Reading List
Delicious dishes created with the home cook in mind
MENUS
22 SOURCES 100 100 101 NUTRITION 102 RECIPE INDEX
soup, or a terrific turnover. turnover.
GREAT FINDS
15 EDITOR’S NOTE 18 CONTRIBUTORS 21 #FINECOOKING
39 Make It Tonight Fresh and easy weeknight cooking
95 Test Kitchen
Tips, techniques, equipment, ingredients, and more, for your best Thanksgiving
p. 95
p. 78 p. 70 p. 34
p. 86
p. 56
8
Cover photograph by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
THE TASTE OF I R E L A N D, IN YOUR BACK YARD.
M a d e i n I r e l a n d w i t h m i l k f r o m g r a s s - f e d c o w s, i t ’s a t a s t e t h a t s a y s a t h o u s a n d w o r d s.
10
AD VE RT IS E ME NT
FALL FOR COPPER CORE It’s easy to cook delicious harvest dishes with high-performance cookware. Markets and grocery store bins are brimming with gorgeous fresh vegetables and fruits right now, so there’s no better time to prepare fabulous meals. Start with high-quality pans, such as the AllClad Copper Core line, to help you turn this season’s bounty into amazing dishes your family will love. Known for remarkably high-quality cookware, All-Clad offers superior heat distribution and rapid temperature responsiveness in its five-ply Copper Core line. The pots and pans perform perfectly on all cooking surfaces and clean with the ease of stainless steel. Cookware Cookwar e provided by All-Clad
roast chicken with carrots, baby potatoes, leeks, and bacon
EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR RECIPES 2-qt. Copper Core Saucepan
10-in. Fry Pan 6-qt. Round Roaster 6-qt. Saute Pan
5.5-qt. Dutch Oven
butter dried Elegant ye thanks to t and the ric
Melt the but over mediu ally, until the
5 minutes. R zest and juic
spiced parsnip soup The parsnip’s sweetness is perfectly complemented by the Madeira wine.
In a large Dutch oven or soup pot heat the butter and olive oil over medium high heat
until the butter has melted. Add the onions and cook until they are soft and browned in spots, about 4 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to cook for another 15 seconds. Add the Madeira and bring to a boil, continuing to cook until the liquid has been absorbed, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth, bay leaf, parsnips, cinnamon, nutmeg, curry powder, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Bring to a boil and cook until the parsnips are very tender, about 15 minutes. Using an immersion blender or working in batches and transferring to a blender, blend until smooth. If using a blender, return the soup to the pot. Bring to a low boil. Lower the heat to medium, add the heavy cream, and heat through. Served garnished with the basil and olive oil.
The All-Clad Copper Core Dutch Oven is ideal for slow-cooking meats and vegetables or simmering soups and stews.
butternut squash with rainbow chard, dried cherries, and pine nuts Elegant yet comforting, this side dish has layers of flavor thanks to the flavorful squash and bright cherries, the fresh chard, and the rich salty-toasty top notes from the cheese and nuts.
Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from to thecombine. heat, add the lemon zest and juice, and swirl
Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the squash and ½ tsp. salt; toss well to coat. Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about 1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low and cook, gently stirring occasionally, until the squash begins to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. As the mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle. Turn the heat down to low, add the chopped stems, onions, and cherries and cook, stirring occasionally and then gently pushing the vegetables back into a single layer so that most have direct contact with the pan, until the vegetables are tender and browned, 12 to 15 minutes more. Add the chard leaves and lemon butter and toss gently until the chard is wilted, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese and pine nuts. Season to taste with salt. Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat gently over medium-low heat.
Deeper than a traditional fry pan, the All-Clad Copper Core 6-qt. Sauté Pan features a large surface area and tall, straight sides that hold in juices and prevent splattering,
al
FINECOOKING.COM
37
roast chicken with carrots, baby potatoes, leeks, and bacon Sautéing the leeks and garlic before layering them with the potatoes renders them meltingly tender and slightly caramelized. The roast chicken on top comes out incredibly juicy juicy,, with delicate herbal notes.
son very lightly with salt and pepper, then scatter the leek mixture over top. Layer the remaining carrots and the potatoes over the leeks, and season very lightly with salt and pepper. Pour the broth over the vegetables. Pour 1 Tbs. of the reserved bacon fat into the cavity of the chicken. Rub the softened butter over the bird’s skin, and sprinkle with the chopped thyme. Set the chicken, breast side up, on the vegetables.
warm pear compote with vanilla cream This thick, syrupy reduction is simple and delicious. Serve over ice cream or with whipped whi pped cream.
y a D e n n o R y b g n i l y t s d o o f ; s p i l l i
h P t o c S y b s h p a r g o t o h P
Discard the giblets from the chicken, trim off any excess fat from the cavity and neck, and pat dry with paper towels. Generously season the chicken inside and out with 1 Tbs. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Stuff the cavity with the parsley sprigs, 3 of the bay leaves (if fresh, crush lightly), 2 sprigs of thyme, and the dark leek greens. Tuck the wings behind the neck of the chicken, using the wing tips to secure any loose neck skin, if necessary. Tie the legs together with string. Let rest at room r oom temperature for 20 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. In the 6-qt. round roaster, cook the bacon in the oil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, about 7 minutes. Leaving the bacon in the pan, spoon out and reserve all but 1 Tbs. fat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the leeks, garlic, and the remaining bay leaf and thyme sprigs, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, l eeks Transfer leeks are soft and translucent, 5until to 7the minutes. to a plate. In the same pan, arrange half of the carrots and potatoes in an even layer, sea38
The All-Clad Copper Core Round Roaster yields impressive roasts and braises from stovetop to oven. An accompanying domed lid promotes heat circulation and locks in moisture.
In a small saucepan, combine the cider, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat and reduce by half, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a sauté pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the pears and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with ½ cup of the granulated sugar and cook, stirring frequently, until the pears are very soft and nicely browned, about another 10 minutes. Add the cranberries and cook for 3 minutes. Toss Toss the pear mixture with the cider reduction. Set aside to cool. Serve over ice cream.
Roast the chicken until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 165°F to 170°F, about 1 hour. Transfer the chicken to a platter, remove the string, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf and keep the vegetables warm in the oven. carrots and potatoes with theSprinkle choppedthe parsley, arrange them around the chicken, and serve.
/
The All-Clad Copper Core 10-in. Fry Pan produces beautifully browned and seared ingredients. A flat bottom and flared sides allows for easy turning with a spatula.
NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard Lasagne (p. 59).
Pogaca rolls (p. 80).
Stay Calm and Baste On I’ for more than 20 years, and although I’ve gotten good at it, I can’t say it’s ever a breeze.
Kitchen section on p. 95 is all about cooking the great American dinner, from advice on roasting and carving the turkey to making
dishes that you can find on a special section of our website, FineCooking.com/Tanksgiving . So stay calm and baste on. Te tips and
Planning and timing are always a challenge, even for seasoned cooks. Plus, something always seems to unexpectedly go awry on the big day: grabbing eggnog instead of cream for the mashed potatoes (they were actually very tasty), the dog eating the coveted homemade apple pie, the power going out in the middle of cooking. But over the years, I’ve learned some invaluable lessons, as I’m sure most of you who host this holiday have, too. Te best piece of advice I give to cooks who are on tap to prepare the feast is to relax: Remember, it’s just dinner. More practically, always include one or two dishes that can be
the gravy ahead. If cooking for Tanksgiving seems daunting, we hope these tips and techniques will make it less so. One big question for me is what new dishes I’ll bring to the table this year. As I taste some of the delicious dishes in this issue, I’m considering quite a few. I can tell you for certain that I will be making the Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard Lasagne (p. 59) for all the vegetarians (and omnivores, too), and one of the sides will be the fresh f resh and flavorful flavorful shaved fennel salad (p. 69). Te airy dinner rolls (urkish pogaca) on p. 80 definitely rise to Tanksgiving occasion, and I plan on
recipes in this issue and on FineCooking .com will help make your meal a success— just watch watch out out for for the dog. dog. Enjoy! Kathy Kingsley, editorial director
made and to sermanage served at room temperature, temperature, whichahead helps you mved anage the last-minute rush of getting everything on the table. For more tips on pulling off the day, our est
serving at least two variations: Teraisins spicedare date butter and caramelized apple with too good to pass up. Beyond what’s on these pages, there are many more holiday-inspired
this as weand travel to Italy,year France, beyond to cook some amazing food with top chefs.
@finecooking @katings_
I’m excited to announce that Season 5 of Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking is now airing on local PBS stations. Join us
FINECOOKING.COM
15
d r a r e v E + r e h c a e l B y b o t o h p m o t t o B ; y a D e n n o R y b g n i l y t s d o o f ; s p i l l i h P t t o c S y b s h p a r g o t o h P
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HARVEST DINNER This easy, seasonal, and flavorful dish provides the perfect opportunity to unwind at the end of a busy workday. Just sauté turkey steaks, make a quick and
WITH
flavor-packed rice pilaf, and supper is served. Keep the relaxed mood going by opening a bottle of Edna Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir to accompany this seasonal meal. The wine’s vibrant pa late is a perfect partner for turkey and fall sides.
TURKEY BREAST WITH CHESTNUT WILD RICE Juicy, lean turkey tenderloin steaks are a gift to weeknight cooks. They pair beautifully with wild rice, and the plate brims with fall flavors. Serves 4
2
Tbs. butter
1
medium shallot, minced (¼ cup)
¼
cup white or red wine
¼
cup dried cranberries
1
cup roasted chestnuts , peeled and chopped
1
Tbs. maple syrup
2
cups wild rice, cooked
2
tsp. fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4
turkey breast steaks (about 1¼ lb.)
2
Tbs. olive oil
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and c ranberries, and cook until the wine is mostly absorbed. Add the chestnuts and maple syrup, and cook until lightly glazed. Toss with the wild rice and parsley; season with salt and pepper. Season the turkey steaks on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 1 Tbs . of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Add as many steaks as will comfortably fit in a single layer and cook until browned on both sides, and just cooked through, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep adding warm. Repeat with the1 Tbs. remaining cutlets, the remaining oil if needed. Divide the turkey steaks and rice among four plates, and serve.
PINOT NOIR Situated in the heart of the warm, sunny Central Coast of C alifornia, Edna Valley Vineyard is renowned for coaxing layered and complex flavors from their grapes. Their Pinot Noir is beloved for tasting rich in style, being light on the palate, and having a luscious, silky mouthfeel. Rose petal, black cherry, and blackberry pie are the prominent flavors. The wine’s bright acidity and long finish make it a perfect pairing for a wide range of foods, including the harvest dinner here. Cheers!
FINECOOKING.COM
17
contributors
(“Get Rolling,” Maura Kilpatrick (“Get p. 80) earned her graduate certificate in baking at California Culinary Academy and has worked with many of Boston’s top chefs. She and chef Ana Sortun developed the concept for the restaurant Oleana, followed by Sofra Bakery Baker y & Cafe. Kilpatrick has earned several nominatio nominations ns from the James Beard Foundation Foundation for outstanding pastry chef and the title of best pastry chef from Boston Boston magazine. magazine. Along with Ana Sortun, she is co-writer of the cookbook Soframiz . take take a walk! all all kinds of seasonal fruit. changes changes all the time. I love reading the intros and stories in cookbooks. I’m currently rereading Momo fuku Milk Bar and and a book on Greek baking.
(“Make Fennel a Martha Holmberg (“Make Favorite,” p. 64) is a food writer based in Portland, Oregon. She’s become especially keen on vegetable cookery aer co-writing Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables with chef Joshua McFadden. A former editor of Fine Cooking , Martha is also the current CEO of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). an extravagantly expen sive, big, gorgeous, muscular aluminum colander. Good for draining, but it’s also like a sculpture on my shelf. gardens. gardens. Every house, sidewalk strip, and highway embankment is full of blooms. chef Fernand Chambrette, one of my teachers at cooking school in Paris, so I could show him that I actually can cook well now; Barack and Michelle Obama (can they count as one person?), because they seem like the most delightful dinner-party dinner-party guests; and the author Evelyn Waugh, because he’d keep us all laughing.
Christine Burns Rudalevige (“Make It onight,” p. 40) is a food writer and recipe developer who lives in Brunswick, Maine, with her husband, two teenage children, and a much-loved hound-mix mutt named Teodore Roosevelt Rudalevige. Her first book, Green Plate Special , recently received the 2017 Boston Readable Feast Socially S ocially Conscious book award. sausage sausage and thyme stuffing baked in the bird. lots of homemade pizza to help warm the kitchen in my old house. my melon baller. Tere are a million jobs it can handle—like removing cores for picture-perfect poached fall pears, for example.
W I N
Y C E L E B R I T C R U I S E ! D E T TA A I L LS S E R E H 18
Pastry chef and recipe developer Karen DeMasco (“Streusel,” p. 86) lives in Brooklyn, New York, with her two daughters. She was voted outstanding pastry chef in 2005 by the James Beard Foundation. homemade cold-brew coffee, Ruby Red grapefruit seltzer, and Califia almond milk. a a maple bourbon pumpkin pie made with a lard crust and topped with whipped cream. made-for made-for Instagram food that is grossly over the top.
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MENUS
Family Family Gathering Wild Mushroom Soup with Sherry & Tyme FineCooking.com
Shaved Fennel Salad with Oranges, Black Olives, and Pistachios
Oktoberfest
page 69
Saturday Night with Friends
urkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells
Parsnip, Potato, and Scallion Pancakes
page 34
FineCooking.com
Streusel Coffee Cake
Sausages with Red Cabbage and Apples
page 91
page 40
To drink: Barbera
Mussels with Fennel and Fregola
Raspberry Jam Bars
page 65
To drink: Oktoberfest beer or Riesling
page 90
Potato and Leek Galette with Rosemary and Sea-Salt Crust page 63
Pear and Ginger Crisp page 90
Kid-Friendly Meal
To drink: Viognier
Shaved Cucumber Salad page 41
urkey and Spinach Hand Pies page 36
Autumn Dinner Figs with Ricotta, Pistachios, and Honey FineCooking.com
Pork Chops Milanese page 74
Vanilla Ice Cream Streusel Sundaes with Candied Cherries page 93
To drink: Pinot Grigio or crisp Chardonnay
Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Streusel Cookies page 92
To drink: Sparkling cider (mixed with sparkling wine for the grown-ups) grown-ups)
22
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
TASTE T ASTE FOR TRAVEL If you’re a cook, exploring and discovering new avors, ingrediens, and coinaions is always par of e appeal of raveling eer i’s rying a regional s or sourcing locally-grown produce, culinary creaiviy coes in any fors ere, cefs fro oveale eas and eleriy ruises sare eir inspiraion for vacaion cooking
Little Gem Salad with Prosciutto, Pete Evans (next page)
ood cooking always sar s wi op uali y ingrediens res s rig ou of e waer, frui picked fro e ree a ’s sill war fro e sun or vegeales a were arvesed is orning wi soil sill on e I ’s eauiful ingrediens like ese a inspire y cooking
Corneli us Gallaghe Cornelius Gallagherr | Associa Associate te VP, Food & Beverage Celebrity Cruises
LITT LE GEM SA LA D WITH PROSCIUTTO
If Little Gem lettuce is unavailable, bright green, crisp hearts of romaine or baby romaine are a ne substitution. Serves 6 to
chopped
1
small clove garlic, grated
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1
Tbs. whole-grain mustard
2
tsp. honey
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 / 3
cup thinly sliced fresh chives
4
heads Little Gem lettuce, trimmed and quartered
3
oz. thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma, cut in half lengthwise
In a small bowl, whisk the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest and juice, mustard, honey, ¾ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Drizzle in the oil, whisking until emulsi ed. Gently stir in the chives. Arrange the lettuce on a platter, drizzle with most of the vinaigrette, top with the prosciutto, drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette, and serve.
BOURBON
MOJITO
By switching up traditional rum for bourbon, Chef Lamas the Cuban cocktail a certain spiciness. If gives your rocks glasses are fragile, muddle the mint and sugar in a mortar or other more-sturdy vessel, then transfer it to the glass. Yields 1 cocktail
4
large fresh mint leaves plus more for garnish
2
Tbs. fresh lime juice
1
Tbs. granulated sugar
1½
oz. bourbon
Pete Evans Chef/Host Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking “This quick, tasty salad is
Soda water
Lime wedge for garnish
the perfect light lunch to have when you come in from a day at the beach sur ng.”
and sugar. Fill the glass with ice and add the bourbon. Top off with the soda water. Stir to combine comb ine and garnish with mint and the lime wedge.
In a rocks glass, muddle the mint, lime juice,
Anthony Lamas Chef/Seviche/Owner, Louisville, Kentucky “There’s nothing more refreshing than a ‘Bourbon Mojito’ on a hot summer day...a little Latin America meets the Bluegrass state! ”
Travis Haugen Chef Southside Bistro, Anchorage, Alaska “When you have fresh wild salmon it doesn’t require more than a simple topping to be delicious.”
SALMON
WITH
T O M A T O -A N C H O V Y
VINAIGRET TE
This sure-to- impress grilled salmon dish is quick and delicious. Perfect for warm nights. Serves 6
2
large ripe beefsteak tomatoes (about 13 oz. each), coarsely chopped
½
1½
¼
cup coarsely chopped Kalamata olives
Tbs. capers, coarsely chopped cup lightly packed fresh parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
1½ ¼
Tbs. fresh lemon juice cup extra-virgin olive oil; more for grilling the salmon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6
6-oz. pieces skin-on
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium high (400°F to 475°F). In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, anchovies, olives, garlic, capers, parsley, par sley, lemon juice, and oil. o il. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside. Brush the salmon with oil, season generously with salt and pepper, and transfer to the grill. Cook until medium rare, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Serve with the tomato-anchovy vinaigrette.
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AT THE MARKET
Whatt we’re cooking now Wha Fine Cooking editors editors and a reader share some delicious ideas for in-season ingredients.
Guava Ginger Guava Ginger Mojito
Flatbread with with Mustard Greens
Purée boiled, strained guava, then mix with a little freshly grate d gin ger and h oney. In a cocktail shaker, muddle some fresh mint. Add some of the purée, white rum, and ice; shake and serve.
Strip the leaves from the stems of mustard greens, and cut into thin ribbons. Toss with olive oil, a squeeze of orange juice, chopped jarred sweet red pepper, granulated garlic, salt, and pepper. Grill flatbread until light grill marks appear. Top the bread with the greens and toasted pine nuts.
—William Stewart
Chanterelle Puff Chanterelle Puff Pastry Bites Sauté sliced chanterelles in butter. Add a little white wine and heavy cream, then cook until thickened. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a little white balsamic vinegar. Spoon the mixture into puff pastry shells and bake. Sprinkle with chopped tarragon and serve.
—Ronne Day
Stir-Fried Stir-Fried Watercress Watercress Heat toasted sesame oil in a large skillet. Add sliced garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant. Add watercress, a splash of soy sauce, and a little stock or water. Cook, stirring, until the watercress is wilted.
—Diana Andrews
Smoky Parsnip Parsnip Chips Chips Toss thinly sliced slice d parsnips with vegetable oil and roast in a 350°F oven, flipping once, until crisp and lightly browned. Meanwhile, mix equal parts kosher salt and smoked paprika. Sprinkle over the chips and serve.
—Joanne Smart
Pear Grilled Cheese Pear Grilled Sandwich Using hearty bread, make a sandwich of mild blue cheese and sliced pears. Butter both sides, then toast on a griddle until browned and crisp.
—Chris Hoelck
—Lisa Lahey ONE READER’S SEASONAL SPECIALTY
Honey-Butter Sweet Potatoes with Toasted Pecans Melt butter and honey together. together. Arrange peeled and quartered sweet potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with half of the butter mixture, then season with salt and coarsely ground black pepper. Roast for about 30 minutes, until the butter mixture is absorbed. Flip, drizzle with remaining butter mixture, mixture, and gently toss. Season Sea son with more pepper and top with w ith chopped pecans. Roast until tender. Serve with any sauce from the pan, and garnish with a little freshly grated nutmeg. —Emilee McCaffrey, Bismarck, North Dakota
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 27
Photographs by Scott Phillips, except bottom left courtesy of Emilee McCaffrey
GREAT FINDS
Go With the Grain Wood is the material of the moment, bringing durability and warmth to the kitchen and table. BY REBECCA FREEDMAN
1
Stand strong
Show off your pies, cakes, and tarts with this handsome acacia wood cake stand. $64;dejumo.com.
2
2 Get the scoop
Bay-area designer Melanie Abrantes fashions her work from cork, wood, and sometimes both. canister, which you can use for coffee storage, of course, but really for any dry goods. We especially love that the removable scoop doubles as the lid’s handle. $125; melanieabrantes.com.
1
3
3 Ahead of the carve knife isn’t just for brisket; it’s meant for any large blade roasts in a single keeping slices these pass, tects the blade. $255; shun.kaiusaldt.com. 4 Super
bowls
When it’s time to make salad, we’ll be reaching for Farmhouse Pottery’s crafted wooden bowls and servers; their rustic look and substantial feel transport us straight to the country. Hand-carved from New England ash and finished in the company’s Bowls, $48 to $295; servers,
7
$48; farmhousepo farmhousepottery.com ttery.com.. 5 Stacked
up
Apples, pears, and all those other ripe fruits will need a landing place in your kitchen this fall; look no further than these sleek pine and powdercoated steel platform bowls, which can be used on their own or stacked for a tiered effect. $32.50
each; supergoodthing.com.
6 4
6 Hanging around Edgewood Made’s gorgeous Leicester boards are designed to hang on a hook so that they (black, walnut, and cherry). Boards, $85 to
$135; hook, $45; edgewoodmade.com. 7 Just
right
Handcrafted in Colorado, these stylish walnut and ceramic tumblers are great for both hot and cold drinks; the wood acts as an insulator, keeping beverages at their intended temperature.
$36 each; davidrasmussendesign.com. continued on p. 30 »
5
28
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
OUR AGING ROOMS At BelGioioso, cheesemaking is an art. ®
Our American an 18-month 18-mon th Extra Aged Parmesan,Grana takes ,patience to produce. We deliberately choose not to cut corners and aging rooms are our commitment to traditional cheesemaking methods. By aging on natural wooden shelves, our Master Cheesemakers follow the proper steps to ensure what is best for this cheese. Available in the specialty Available specialty cheese section in wedges and shredded cups.
Aging Room, BelGioioso Pulaski Plant, WI
December 2016
belgioioso.com
GREAT FINDS
More kitchen products on our radar
9 8
8 Mash
in a flash
While most potato ricers call for a downward squeezing motion, Joseph Joseph’s Helix ergonomic food press’s handles move horizontally, requiring less force to make your mashed potatoes. $20; josephjoseph.com josephjoseph.com..
10 9 Cheers to this
If you’re a cocktail aficionado without much space for a collection of bar tools (or if you just need a handy one to tote along on vacation), just the thi thing. ng. It impre impressed ssed us with with its abil ability ity to tackle a range of tasks, from peeling and muddling to stirring, straining, and more. $16.95;
13
amazon.com. 10 Rest up
Surprisingly, it’s not easy to find a good-looking spoon rest; so many on the market are just, well, kitschy. So when we recently came upon love at first sight. Available in a range of tranquil hues, they’re pretty and functional. $24;
pigeontoeceramics.com. 11 Ready
to wear
these heavy-duty cotton aprons are customizable, since their adjustable, d etachable braces, made of washable paper, are sold separately.. Choose from an array of colors, separately and mix and match as you please. Apron,
$84; paper braces, $20 to $30; shopuash mamausa.com.
12 11
12
Pantry pesto A combination of oils, including walnut, gets infused with garlic and basil to produce La fresh herbal and nutty finish to anything you’re cooking; try whisking it into a vinaigrette, brushing it on crostini, or drizzling it over tomato soup. $6.99 for 250 ml; latourangelle.com. 13 Open
sesame
oak barrels only once to age bourbon, so it’s life: using the wood to smoke spices and of tasty smoked spices and seasonings, but we were particularly impressed with their boldly flavored smoked sesame seeds; they’d be delicious sprinkled over a salad or used as a coating for fish, meat, or poultry. $6 for a
2.25-oz. tin; bourbonbarrelfoods.com.
30
Handcrafted in Japan
When the food you’re cutting is tough on the outside, but tender on the inside, that’s when serrations shine. Shun’s razor-sharp 16° serrations slice through resilient exteriors without squashing delicate interiors. From its proprietary VG-MAX cutting core and beautiful Damascus cladding to its traditional-style handle, it takes over 100 handcrafted steps to make this
Classic
extraordinary—and rather brilliant—knif brilliant—knife. e.
6" Serrated Utility
shuncutlery.com
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BOOKS THAT COOK
The Reading List Delicious dishes created with the home cook in mind B Y J O A N N E S M A R T
Dining In
The Home Cook
Myers + Chang at Home
Highly Cookable Recipes
Recipes to Know by Heart
Recipes from the Beloved Boston Eatery
By Alison Roman (Clarkson Potter; $30)
By Alex Guarnaschelli (Clarkson Potter; $35)
Recently, I followed a suggestion from Twitter: “Pick up the nearest book to you, turn to page 45. The first sentence explains your love life.” I grabbed Alison Roman’s debut cookbook and found this: “Asparagus and I have a very complicated relationship.” I don’t know what that sentence says about my love life, but it definitely encapsulates Roman’s wonderfully quirky voice as she writes about how to cook unfussy but really tasty dishes at home. The former Bon
By Joanne Chang with Karen Akunowicz DeMent (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; $32)
In her debut cookbook, Alex Guarnaschelli jokes that she became a chef just to keep up with her family.. (Her mother is famed cookbook editor family Maria Guarnaschelli, and apparently her dad was no slouch in the kitchen, either.) Trained Trained at La Varenne Culinary School in France, she worked at Guy Savoy in Paris and at an American Place and Daniel in New York City. Now a familiar presence on TV cooking shows as well as mom of a 9-yearold daughter, Guarnaschelli knows full well what
Appétit senior senior editor has not lost her hip cred since leaving the magazine. Her recipes feature plenty of “it” ingredients, like kimchi, pistachios, and za’atar, but they all make delicious, craveworthy sense. To persuade readers to try her Sour Cream Flatbread, she shows off her foodworld knowledge while keeping it real: “Making your own flatbread doesn’t need to be an insane experience,”” she writes. “This is not the Tartine experience, Cookbook .” .” The gorgeous photo of the bread topped with ricotta and her Oil-Roasted Mushrooms almost makes such convincing unnecessary, however. Like all of the photos in the book, it looks both amazing yet doable. Indeed, flipping through Dining In, I wanted to read every word and make every dish; there’s
it’s like to cook at home where there’s no one but you prepping your ingredients or washing your pots. To that end, her recipes are very accessible—a term chefs hate but home cooks love. Her roast chicken may be spatchcocked (back bone removed and flattened), but the ingredient list is just chicke chicken n and salt. Indeed Indeed,, part of what’s what’s so enjoyable about her book is seeing so many recipes that fit, easily and with white space, on a single page. Though straightforward, the recipes, such as Orecchiette with Bacon, Lemon, and Cream, are sophisticated and appealing. Unlike in many chef-written books, desserts get a lot of attention. Guarnaschelli loves to bake—she calls cake her favorite food group—and it shows, much to the reader’s benefit.
not too many cookbooks I can say that about.
Don’t miss: Avocados with Everything. The bagel-like topping is great, but it’s her takedown of avocado toast that seals the deal.
A great idea: Dark Chocolate Mayonnaise Layer Cake. The not-so-secret ingredient keeps the cake super moist.
Not only is Myers + Chang a beloved Boston eatery, but Joanne Chang is also a beloved contributor to Fine Cooking. Though we mostly feature her mad baking skills (her Flour bakeries are another Boston fave), we’ve also enjoyed the bold flavors featured at the Asianinspired restaurant she opened 10 years ago with her husband, Christopher Myers. ( You can find their signature Indonesian Fried Chicken on FineCooking.com.) Like that recipe, most of the recipes in the book contain multiple components, and ingredients and techniques that may not be familia familiar. r. But don’t let that scare you. For one thing, the authors include lots of information on ingredients and equipment, as well as tutorials on how to velvet, shape dumplings, and even use chopsticks. More important, the vibrant flavors and exciting textures that result from recipes like Wok-Roasted Lemongrass Mussels with Garlic Toast, To ast, Smashed Fingerling Potatoes with Thai Chili Jam, or Korean Braised Short Rib Tacos are worth every second of the time invested in making them.
Super simple yet scrumptious: scrumptious: Grilled Grilled Corn with Sriracha Butter Butter.. The hot sauce counters smoky-sweet kernels, kernels, but it’s the scallion finish that makes this easy dish sing.
32
Photographs by Scott Phillips
This year, focus your feast on something everyone around the table can enjoy— herbivores, carnivores, and even vegan and gluten-free guests. Fill your glasses with Tito’s! For recipes and more visit titosvodka.com
3 WAYS
WITH...
Leftover Turkey Transform extra Thanksgiving turkey into a glorious pasta, a satisfying soup, or a terrific turnover. turnover. BY DIANA AND REWS
turkey and ricotta stuffed shells This take on classic stuffed shells features diced turkey in place of ground meat. Pine nuts, currants, and arugula add a crunchy sweet-peppery burst in every bite.
Serves 6 to 8
the currants, garlic, egg, pepper flakes, Gently fold in the turkey. Season to
Cooking spray or olive oil
taste with salt and pepper flakes.
Kosher salt 12 oz. jumbo pasta shells
Lightly oil the bottom and sides of
of the marinara over the bottom of the
1 lb. 12 oz. ricotta (3 cups)
12 oz. mozzar mozzarella, ella, coarsely grated (3 cups)
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
of the filling (you will not use all of the shells), and transfer to the baking dish,
½ cup plus 2 Tbs. finely chopped arugula
arranging as many shells, open side
¼ cup plus 2 Tbs. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano
up, in a single layer as comfortably fit. over the shells. Add the remaining filled
¼ cup dried currants
shells on top, nestling them into a ny
4 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 large egg
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes; more to taste
2 cups diced (½ inch) cooked turkey 4 cups homemade or store-bought marinara
remaining mozzarella and the remain Lightly oil one side of a piece of foil large enough to cover the dish. Cover the shells with the oiled side of the foil,
Cooked-turkey talk
Use white, dark, or a mix of white and dark for these recipes.
Be thorough when picking the turkey carcass of meat.
Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.
and bake until the cheese melts and the
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil, and cook the shells according
Remove the foil, turn the oven to broil,
to package directions until al dente. Drain and rinse with cold water until
and broil until the cheese begins to
utes, and garnish with the remaining
sheet in a single layer, and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the
Don’t forget to turn the bird over, too.
Securely wrap and refrigerate leftover turkey; it will keep up to four days.
If your turkey was brined or is kosher, the meat will already be quite salty. Go easy when adding salt to dishes using leftov leftovers. ers.
sauce, and pass at the table.
Any recipe calling for leftover turkey would also work well with chicken. Or use thick-cut turkey breast from the deli.
34
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
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. C L L , s d o o F d e g a k c a P e l o D 7 1 0 2 © & M T , ®
T H R E E W AY AY S W I T H . . .
turkey, escarole, and white bean soup with cheesy crouton A cross between white bean soup and French onion soup, a bowl makes a hearty meal. Serves 4
Bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a
Divide the soup among four bowls and sea-
boil, and cook the pasta according to package
son to taste with lemon juice. Float a crouton
directions until al dente. Drain and rinse under
on top, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve.
cold water until cool.
Heat the oil in a 4- to 5-quart Dutch oven or
Kosher salt
other heavy-duty pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until
1 cup ditalini or similar small pasta
2 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed
1 large sweet onion, coarsely chopped (about (ab out 1 cups) c ups)
5 medium cloves garlic, 4 minced and 1 halved lengthwise
1½ qt. unsalte unsalted d chicken stock
2 Tbs. Dijon mustard; more to taste Freshly ground black pepper 1 large head escarole (about 1 lb.), cut crosswise crosswis e into ¼-inch-t -inch-thick hick ribbons (about 6 packed cups)
2 cups diced (½ inch) cooked turkey
1 15.5-oz. can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 baguette
8 slices Swiss cheese
Fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
utes. Add the minced garlic and cook, stirring, Add the stock, bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Add the mustard, combine. Add the escarole in batches, waiting until it begins to wilt before adding more. Stir in the turkey, pasta, beans, and pepper flakes. Season to taste with mustard, salt, and pepper. Cover and keep warm. Position a rack 6 to 8 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Cut four ½-inch-thick slices sli ces of baguette on a sharp diagonal. Brush lightly with olive oil, then rub each slice with the garlic halves. Cover each cutting the cheese to fit. Broil until the cheese
turkey and spinach hand pies These turnoverlike pastries make a nice lunch paired with a green salad. Or enjoy them for a casual weeknight dinner. Serves 6
2 17-oz. boxes frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 10-oz. box frozen chopped spinach, thawed, squeezed very dry, and coarsely chopped
6 oz. Monterey Jack, coarsely grated (1¾ (1 ¾ cups cups))
In a large bowl, combine the spinach, cheese, mayonnaise, hazelnuts, roasted red pepper, garlic, lemon zest and juice, pepper and set aside. In a small bowl, beat the egg
½ cup c up mayonnaise
cup hazelnut hazelnuts, s, toasted and coarsel y chopped
cup coarsel y chopped roasted red pepper
each sheet in half into two rectangles. Mound
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
dle of one side of each rectangle. Brush the edges of the pastry with the egg wash. Fold
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
Kosher salt
2 cups diced (½ inch) cooked turkey
1 large egg
All-purpose flour
Toasted Toa sted sesame seeds, for garnish
On a lightly floured work surface, roll each
the pastry over the filling, and seal by pressing the edges with the tines of a fork dipped in remaining egg wash and cut four slashes in a crosshatch pattern on top. Sprinkle with the
sesame seeds, and bake until golden brown,
ing to package directions. Position a rack in
a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment.
36
It tastes like you actually know what you’re doing. Thanks to the outstanding quality of GOYA® Black Beans , your recipes will always be exquisite, even when you’re improvising a bit. Because you can trust that each U.S. #1 Grade bean* will be whole, plump and delicious from the first bite to the last. ® GOYA Black Beans, the perfect ingredient for Real-Life Chefs
Quinoa and Black Chili Serves 6 | Prep time: 20 min.Bean | Total time: 40 min. IIngredients ngredients 1 cup GOYA® Organic Quinoa 2 tbsp. GOYA® Extra Virgin Olive Oil, divided 1 large onion, chopped chopped 1 tbsp. GOYA ® Minced Garlic 1 tbsp. chili powder 1 tbsp. GOYA ® Ground Cumin 1 tsp. GOYA ® Oregano Leaves 1 can (8 oz.) GOYA ® Tomato Sauce 2 cans (15.5 oz. each) GOYA ® Black Beans, drained and rinsed
½ large green bell pepper, seeded and diced large red bell pepper, seeded and diced ½ 1 tbsp. GOYA® Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce, finely chopped 1 can (15.25 oz.) GOYA® Whole Kernel Golden Corn, drained and rinsed Fresh cilantro, chopped
For step-by-step preparation instructions, visit goya.com/chili
*As defined by the USDA, when Mother Nature permits.
. c n I , s d o o F a y o G 7 1 0 2 ©
M A K E I T TO N I G H T Fresh and a nd easy week weeknig night ht cooki c ooking ng
Sausage with Red Cabbage and Apples, p. 40
FINECOOKING.COM
MAKE IT TONIGHT
SEASONAL EATS
sausages with red cabbage and apples Fully cooked sausages are a great choice for speedy weeknight dinners. Pair them with red cabbage braised in beer plus vinegar, cloves, and red currant jelly for your own mini Oktoberfest. Serves 4
3 Tbs. olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced sliced
Kosher salt
½ head red cabbage, thinly sliced (about 6 cups) 1 large Granny Granny Smith apple, peeled and chopped
pork, lemongras lemongrass, s, and noodle stir-fry While delicious on its own, this slightly spicy Thai-style stir-fry pairs well with the bright, crisp, and refreshing cucumber salad at far right. You can also make this dish with ground chicken or turkey. Serves 4 to 6 ¼ cup soy sauce
3 Tbs. minced lemongrass (from about 3 stalks)
3 Tbs. grated or minced fresh ginger
2 Tbs. finely chopped Fresno chile
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste
1 lb. ground pork
6 oz. vermicelli rice noodles
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 cup unsalted chicken stock
2 tsp. granulated sugar
tsp. groun ground d clove cloves s
5 oz. baby kale, tough stems removed remov ed (about 5 cups)
3 Tbs. coarsely coarsely chopped chopped fresh fresh mint mint
2 oz. (4 (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, butter, cut into pieces ¼ cup lager-style beer ¼ cup red currant jelly ¼ cup red wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper 4 bratwurst, knockwurst, or other cooked sausage of your choice
Mustard, for serving (optional)
cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about
3 Tbs. coarsely coarsely chopped chopped fresh fresh cilantro cilantro
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, lemongrass, ginger, chile, garlic, and lime juice. In a medium bowl, combine the pork and half Prepare the noodles according to package
directions until tender. Drain, pat dry, transfer to
cook, tossing occasionally, until softened, about
In a large skillet or wok, heat the remaining
ongrass mixture and stir-fry until fragrant, about
it into small pieces, until cooked through and
sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until
chicken stock and sugar. Stir in the kale, and sim-
mustard on the side, if you like. —Laraine Perri
to the noodle bowl, add the herbs, and toss. —Christine Burns Rudalevige
Pair With: LAGER As always, the beer or wine in a recipe is a good candidate to serve alongside it. This medium-weigh medium-weightt lager will have spice and even slight sweetness to stand up to the similar flavors in the food.
Pair With: OFF-DRY RIESLING RIESLING Riesling and Thai flavors are a match made in heaven. The slight sweetness of the wine balances the slight heat of the dish, while the wine’s fresh, tropical notes ,complement ginger ginger, and mint. the lemongrass,
39
40
three speedy sides shaved cucumber salad
Serves 4 to 6
In a medium bowl, combine ¼ cup rice vinegar, 2 Tbs. seeded and minced Fresno chile, and 4 tsp. granulat granulated ed sugar. sugar. Trim and peel 4 medium cucumbers. With a vegetable peeler, shave the cucumbers into the bowl in long, wide strips. Toss and let sit briefly before serving with the stir-fry at left or with seared steak or salmon. —Christine Burns Rudalevige
pearl couscous with orange, cranberries, and almonds Serves 4 to 6 In a medium bowl, whisk 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, 1 Tbs.
fresh orange juice, ½ tsp. finely grated orange zest, ¼ tsp. kosher salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Melt 1 Tbs. unsalted butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add 1 cup pearl couscous and cook, stirring, until light golden, about 3 minutes. Add 1 cups cu ps lower-salt chicken broth, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until nearly tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup coarsely chopped dried cranberries, cover, and cook for 1 minute more. Toss the couscous, ¼ cup coarsely chopped roasted almonds, ¼ cup sliced scallions, and 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint with the vinaigrette and serve. —Laraine Perri
french potato salad with white wine and tarragon
Serves 4
Put 1 lb. halved fingerling potatoes in a pot of cold, wellsalted water. Bring to a boil, and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and transfer to a clean cl ean kitchen towel to dry. In a medium bowl, combine 2 Tbs. dry white wine, 1 Tbs.
TIP For easier eating, snip very long noodles with scissors before tossing them with oil.
white wine vinegar, 1 Tbs. minced shallot, 1½ tsp. Dijon mustard, 1 tsp. minced garlic, ½ tsp. kosher salt, and ¼ tsp. granulated sugar. Whisk in 3 Tbs. extra-virgin extra-v irgin olive oil; season to taste with freshly ground black pepper. Add the potatoes, toss gently, and let sit for 5 minutes. Just before serving, stir in 3 Tbs. sliced scallions, 2 tsp. thinly sliced chives, and 1 tsp. minced fresh tarragon; season to taste with salt and more vinegar. —Laraine Perri
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 41
MAKE IT TONIGHT
mini meatloaves wrapped in bacon These single-serving meatloaves are super cute and tasty, tasty, too. Serve with mashed potatoes and extra ketchup
TIP
If you don’t have mini loaf pans or ramekins, you can shape freeform loaves on a baking sheet and drape the bacon over them.
Pulse the onion, parsley, and garlic in a food processor until chopped, 4 to 5 pulses. Add the breadcrumbs, egg,
on the side. Serves 4
ketchup, Worcestershire, Worcestershire, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Pulse 3 to 4 times to blend.
Transfer Tr ansfer to a mixing bowl, add the ground
8 slices bacon
½ cup coarsely chopped onion cup fresh flat-le flat-leaf af parsley leaves
1 medium clove garlic
beef,, and mix until well combined. beef Lightly spray four mini loaf pans or 6-oz. ramekins with cooking spray. Cross 2 slices
½ cup dry breadcrumbs, such as panko
of bacon in each pan or ramekin, press-
1 large egg
ing the bacon along the bottom and up
3 Tbs. ketchup; more as needed
½ tsp. Worcest Worcestershire ershire sauce
the sides. (Let any excess hang over for now.) Divide the meatloaf mixture among
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
the pans, gently packing it in. Fold the
1 lb. ground beef, preferably 85% lean
Cooking spray
Barbecue sauce (optional)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Arrange the bacon on the sheet with some room between each slice, and bake until crisp along the edges, about 10 1 0 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to cool.
excess bacon over the meatloaf. Bake until cooked through (165°F), about 30 minutes. Remove from the pan and transfer to a cooling rack. If you like, combine an equal amount of ketchup and barbecue sauce in a small bowl and brush some on the meatloaves before serving hot.
—Lynne Curry
Pair With: ZINFANDEL A classic American wine—one that complements both bacon and ketchup—goes with a classic American meal.
42
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T
HOLIDAY CHEER CELEBRATE EBRATE THE SEA SEASON SON WITH MOUTHWA MO UTHWATERI TERING NG CHOC CHOCOLATE OLATE TREATS. CEL DURING THE HOLIDAYS, everyon everyonee is up for indulging in decadent desserts. Especially when those sweets are made Berger chocolate.
world’s best cacao cacao beans from sustainable sustainable farms. The beans are then gently processed below, to bake delicious desserts like the rich,
Berger products and start the celebration today.
Flourless Chocolate Almond Cake Instead of flour, this moist dense cake is made with ground almonds that are first toasted for extra flavor. Serves 12 6
oz. Scharffe Scharffen n Berger 70% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate
¼ cup espresso or double double strength strength coffee coffee 10 Tbs. butter ¾ cup plus 2 Tbs. sugar 6 large eggs, separa separated ted ¼ tsp. salt 2
cups almonds, toasted and finely ground
Confectioners sugar for sprinkling, optional
Whipped cream (optional)
Preheat oven to 375°F 375°F.. Lightly grease and flour the t he pan and line th e bottom with parchment paper. paper. In the top of a double boiler or in a bowl placed over a pan of simmering water, melt the chocolate and coffee, stirring frequently. Set aside to cool slightly. With a hand held mixer, or heavy-duty mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and ¾ cup of the sugar until ivory colored. Add the egg yolks, two at a time. Continue to beat until the mixture is light and airy. Fold in the chocolate. In a clean dry bowl using clean dry beaters, whip the egg whites with the salt until soft peaks form when the beaters are lifted. Gradually Gradually beat in the remaining two tablespoons sugar until the egg whites are stiff but not dr y. Fold the ground almonds into the whites. Fold the chocolate mixture into the egg white mixture. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly. evenly. Place the pan in the oven and immediately turn the heat down to 350°. Bake 15 minutes. Turn the oven down to 325°F. Bake an additional 45 minutes. Turn the oven down to 300°F and bake 15 to 20 minutes. Turn the oven off and leave in the oven, with the door ajar, for another 30 minutes. Cool on a rack. Remove the sides of the pan and transfer to a serving platter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. Serve slices with whipped cream, if desired.
Tawny Port Por t Vani anilla lla Truffle Truf fles s Rich and luxurious, there’s there’s no better way to end a holiday meal than with a dark chocolate truffle infused with the harmonious flavors of tawny t awny port and vanilla. Makes about 40 1 cup heavy cream 18 oz. Sharffen Berger bittersweet (70%) chocolate, finely chopped (about 3 cups) 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened 2 Tbs. tawny port 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract Kosher salt ¾ cup sparkling sanding sugar, more if needed
In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil over medium
heat, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. In a large bowl, pour the cream over the chocolate, let sit 3 minutes, then stir with a silicone spatula until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the butter, port, vanilla, and a pinch of salt until well combined. Cover Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until unt il firm, about 2 hours. Remove the chocolate mixture from the refrigerator, scoop it into 1-inch balls using a melon baller, small scoop, or rounded
teaspoon. Roll the truffles to create balls and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Put the sparkling sanding sugar in a small shallow bowl. Roll the truffles one at a time in the sugar to coat and transfer to another parchment-lined baking sheet. Cover with plastic and refrigerate up to 2 hours or overnight. Let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes before serving. Truffles can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
FINECOOKING.COM
45
MAKE IT TONIGHT
chicken and corn chowder Here’s a perfect soup for cold fall nights. Adding the corn cobs to the pot along with the kernels
amps up the sweet corn flavor. Serves 4
2 oz. (4 Tbs.) Tbs.) unsalted butter ½ lb. skinless, thin-cut boneless chicken breast
Earth, Fire & Flavor The Pie Dish
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
½ lb. red potatoes, cut into ½-inch pieces
3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
4 cups lower-salt chicken
« HAUTE CERAMIC » FROM BURGUNDY MADE IN FRANCE SINCE 1850
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
broth 4 ears corn, kernels removed and cobs cut in half and reserved
1 cup heavy cream
Thinly sliced fresh chives, for garnish
—Erica Clark
Pair With: CHARDONNAY Chicken, corn, cream: If ever there were a combination of ingredients that called for Chardonnay, this is it. A crisp one will provide nice contrast to all the richness.
46
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with FINE COOKING
heads to Europe.
JOIN US FOR SEASON 5 Our newest adventures take us to Bologna, Parma, Livorno, Turin, Dijon, and Paris. Look for the show on your local PBS station. For showtimes, recipes, and more, go to finecooking.tv
“Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking” is a production of WGBH Boston and distributed by American Public Television. Television. © 2017 The Taunton Press
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 47
MAKE IT TONIGHT
WILD RICE-APRICO RICE-APRICOT T BROWNED BUTTER STUFFING MAKES 8-10 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS 3/4 cup (about 5 ounces) uncooked wild rice 10 ounces sourdough bread, cut into cubes 1/2 cup butter plus additional for baking dish 6 slices bacon 1 medium onion, chopped 4 ribs celery, sliced 1 cup (6-ounce bag) chopped Sun-Maid Dried Apricots 1 medium pear, cored and chopped 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried 2 cups unsalted chicken stock
TIP
For the classic rectangle shape, look for pumpernickel labeled Westphalian.
DIRECTIONS COOK wild rice according to package COOK wild directions and set aside. HEAT oven HEAT oven to 300°F.
DINNER FOR TWO
PLACE bread cubes on baking sheet. Bake PLACE bread 10 minutes until bread is toasted. Remove bread from oven.
sweet sw eet and spicy tuna tartines
INCREASE oven to 375°F. Butter a 3-quart INCREASE oven baking dish.
This elevated open-face tuna sandwich packs a ton of disparate
Drain the tuna well, transfer to a medium
COOK 1/2 cup butter and the bacon in large COOK 1/2 saucepan (4 quart) over medium heat 4-5 minutes until butter starts to foam and is slightly browned, stirring occasionally.
flavors that come together for an incredible bite. Serves 2
mayonnaise, hot sauce, gherkins, dill, and ¼ tsp. pepper.
ADD onion and celery and cook 6-8 minutes ADD onion until vegetables start to soften, stirring. ADD apricots, pear, parsley and thyme. ADD apricots, Cook 4 minutes until vegetables are softened, stirring as needed. STIR in bread cubes, rice and chicken stock STIR in until stuffing is evenly moistened. Turn into prepared baking dish. BAKE 30-35 minutes until heated through BAKE 30-35 and golden. SERVE warm SERVE warm with poultry.
Find hundreds of holiday recipes at
SUNMAID.COM/RECIPES
bowl, and break apart with a fork. Stir in the
Evenly divide the tuna salad among
1 6- to 7-oz. jar tuna packed in olive oil, preferably yellowfin
the slices of bread (it will be a thin layer). Squeeze a quarter of the lemon over each
¼ cup mayonnaise
sandwich, then evenly distribute the bell
2 Tbs. hot sauce, such as Cholula
2 Tbs. finely chopped sweet gherkins
pepper, onion, and cucumber over the tuna. Sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt,
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill
—Ronne Day
Freshly ground black pepper
4 slices seedless German pumpernickel
1 small lemon, cut into quarters
3 Tbs. finely chopped red bell pepper
2 Tbs. finely chopped red onion ½ Persian cucumber cucumber,, very thinly sliced
and serve.
Flaky sea salt, for serving
Pair With: HARD CIDER Enjoy a grown-up version of apple juice with this elevated version of a tuna sandwich. The bubbles will complement the tartine’s bright elements while nicely contrasting with the creamy mayo.
48
FILL YOUR
HOLIDAY TABLE WITH
WILD RICE-APRICOT BROWNED BUTTER STUFFING SEE RECIPE ON OPPOSITE PAGE
ADVERTISEMEN T
COU NT NTER ER CUL CU LTU TUR RE Sophisticated Sophisticat ed and a nd versatile, this high-quality versatile, multi-function cooker is a welcome addition to the kitchen. Wolf Gourmet’s new multifunction cooker is much more than a slow cooker; it can also sous vide, cook rice, sauté, and sear. Cooks can create fabulous meals with a flexible variety of customizable slow-cooking modes and pre-programmed settings. Now it’s easier than ever to serve sous vide sea bass, rich, tender veal shanks, or a flavorful pilaf.
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Osso Buco with Mustard & Horseradish Gravy Serve over mashed potatoes or egg noodles, along with roasted root vegetables or sautéed greens. Serves 4
2 Tbs. olive oil 4 veal shanks (about 4 lb.)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup homemade or lower-
salt canned chicken broth 1 cup dry white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc)
2 Tbs. tomato paste 2 carrots, peeled and cut in quarters crosswise
1 medium yellow onion, peeled, root trimmed but left intact, and quartered lengthwise
3 cloves garlic, smashed
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 large bay leaf
3 allspice berries
2 Tbs. brandy
½
tsp. prepared horseradish
½
tsp. grainy prepared mustard
1 tsp. all-purpose flour
2 Tbs. sour cream 2 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley Set the multi-function cooker to high sear and heat the olive oil until shimmering. Pat the shanks dry with paper towels, and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Sear the shanks in the cooker until deep golden brown on one side, about 5
minutes. Turn and sear the other side, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium, remove, and set aside the shanks. Whisk the broth, wine, and tomato paste and add to the multi-function cooker. Bringscraping the broth mixture to a simmer, the bottom to loosen any browned bits. Turn the cooker to manual low and add the carrots, onion, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and allspice. Nestle the shanks on top of the vegetables, cover, and cook until fall-apart tender, about 4 hours. Transfer the shanks to a cutting board and tent with foil to keep warm. Strain the contents of the vessel through a sieve into a heatproof bowl and discard the solids. Skim any fat from the top of the strained liquid (or use a fat separator). Return the liquid to the cooker, and turn to high sauté. Bring to a boil and then simmer rapidly until reduced half, about 10 minutes. Whisk by in the brandy, horseradish, and mustard. In a small bowl, mix the flour into the sour cream, stir in a few tablespoons of the sauce, and then pour the sour cream mixture into the sauce, whisking vigorously to blend. Cook over low sauté, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Meanwhile, transfer the shanks to 4 plates. Serve with the gravy and a sprinkling of parsley.
Sear and slow cook the shanks -
Browning the shanks well is essential for juicy,
Slowly cooking the shanks in a subtle and
deeply flavored meat.
sophisticated wine and tomato sauce yields a rich gravy.
Watch a video on perfecting Osso Buco in the Multi-Function Cooker at finecooking.com/osso-buco
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
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Sous Vide Chilean Sea Bass with Brown Butter, Carrots, and Snap Peas Nutty brown butter and tart fresh lemon complement the rich flavor of sea bass, and the accompanying carrots and sugar snap peas add texture and earthy sweetness. If you can’t find sea bass, use halibut instead. Serves 4
4 5- to 6-oz. skinless Chilean sea bass fillets (about ¾ inch thick)
Kosher salt
4 oz. (½ cup) plus 2 Tbs. unsalted butter 8 thin lemon slices plus 1 Tbs. juice (from 1 medium lemo n) 4 medium carrots, sliced on the diagonal 4 oz. sugar snap peas, strings removed and thinly sliced on the diagonal (1¾ cups)
½
tsp. toasted sesame seeds; more for garnish
1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 4 quart-size zip-top storage or freezer bags
Chopped fresh dill, for garnish
Pat the fish dry and season on both sides with 1 tsp. salt total. Transfer to a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and chill for 1 to 2 hours. In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, saucepan, melt 4 oz. of the butter over medium heat, swirling frequently, until the milk solids turn golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Immediately transfer the butter to a bowl with 4 of the lemon slices. Let cool to room temperature, then strain and discard the lemon slices. Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter on the low sauté setting in the multifunction cooker. Add the carrots with a pinch of salt and cook with the cover
on, stirring until crisp tender, about 4 to 6 minutes. Add the peas and cook, stirring often, until the peas are bright green and crisp tender, about 2 minutes. Add the sesame seeds and the red pepper flakes, then season to taste with salt. Tr Transfer ansfer to a bowl to to cool, before dividing among the zip-top bags. Divide the butter and the remaining 4 lemon slices among the bags. Put 1 piece of fish in each bag. Seal the bags, pressing out as much air as possible, and gently massage the fish to coat it all over. Fill the multi-function cooker with 5 quarts of lukewarm water and turn to sous vide at 135°. When the water has reached the appropriate temperature (this can be adjusted for desired doneness of fish), put the bags of fish and vegetables in the water (the tops of the bags can stick out). Cook until the center of the fish registers 125°F on an instant-read thermometer (open the bags to check), 30 to 40 minutes. Transfer the bags to a rimmed baking sheet and let sit for 5 minutes. Using scissors, snip off one corner of each bag and drain the butter into a small bowl. Stir the lemon juice into the butter and set aside. Add the bags of carrots, sugar snap peas, and fish to 4 dinner plates. Pour the reserved lemon-butter mixture over the fish, garnish with the lemon slices and sesame seeds, and serve.
Sous vide the fish
Use the multi-function cooker’s sectioned insert to separate and allow for easy removal of sous vide bags.
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WOLF GOURMET MULTI-FUNCTION COOKER The Wolf Gourmet multi-function cooker includes a variety of helpful settings for slow cooking meals. One is the program setting which allows for two different heat and time cycles in the same cooking session. Or, use the temperature probe to cook meals to a specific temperature. Another useful feature is meal timer, an intelligent setting that determines the most appropriate temperature for the amount of time you program. Explore these settings and many more when you cook with the multi-function cooker.
Cook the pilaf
Sauté the mushrooms in the Wolf Gourmet multi-function cooker on sauté/sear mode before adding the rice to the cooker.
Mushroom Mushroo m Pilaf Rice pilaf is a snap in the Wolf Gourmet multi-function cooker. First, sauté flavorful ingredients, then rely on the rice setting for light, fluffy results. Serves 8 4 Tbs. unsalted butter /3 cup finely chopped shallots (about 4 oz. or 4 medium shallots)
2
1 oz. dried chanterelle mushrooms, rehydrated in chicken stock and chopped, broth strained and reserved
black pepper 2 tsp. finely chopped tarragon; more sprigs for garnish
2 cups long grain white rice
Melt the butter in the Wolf Gourmet multifunction cooker on the low sauté setting. Sauté the shallots and the rehydrated and fresh mushrooms until softened but not browned, about 5 to 6 minutes.
4 cups chicken broth
Stir in the rice and cook, stirring for 1 minute.
2 sprigs fresh thyme
Pour in 4 cups chicken broth (you may need to supplement with up to 1 cup of water for the broth absorbed by rehydrating the mush-
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh chanterelle mushrooms
Kosher salt and freshly ground
rooms), the thyme and ¾ tsp. kosher salt. Turn the multi-function cooker to rice setting Rice 1, cover and allow rice to cook until the cooker turns automatically to warm, about 20 to 25 minutes. Fluff and separate the rice grains with a fork. Don’t stir vigorously or the rice may get gummy. Fold in the chopped tarragon, add salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with tarragon sprigs.
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VEGETARIAN Three experts create delicious, meatless dishes that can play a starring role at any holiday feast. Whether you or your guests are vegetarian, Thanksgiving dinner—with all of its emphasis on turkey—can be challenging. Too often, vegetarians end up with a plateful of sides—and only those without bacon bacon in them. With this in mind, we asked three culinary experts who love vegetables to develop dishes that taste and look extra-special, and also pair well with the elements of the traditional Thanksgiving table. These mains can also be made ahead, at least in part, so they won’t take much effort on the big day. The only real difficulty they present will be having enough for everyone, because even those who will be eating turkey will want at least a taste.
HOLIDAY
ButternutSquash and Swiss Chard Lasagne, recipe p. 59 >
FINECOOKING.COM
57
SERVE WITH Crisp Roasted Parsnips Mixed Green Salad with Red-Wine and Dijon Vinaigrette
s e t a B h p e s o J c e l
A
IRVIN LIN Irvin Lin is a designer and art director turned awardwinning photographer, writer, and recipe developer who writes the acclaimed blog Eat the Love. He’s also the author of Marbled, Swirled, and Layered , touted by the New York Times as one of the best baking cookbooks of 2016. While Irvin’s blog focuses on baking, he is equally adept at savory cooking (as his lasagne proves). Says Irvin, “Even though every vegetarian I have ever had over for Thanksgiving has said they are happy to make a meal out of the side dishes, I like to make sure there is at least one main-course option for those who don’t eat turkey.”
Make ahead Prepare the butternut squash sauce and the chard mixture, and refrigerate separately in covered containers up to three days before assembling, baking, and serving. The lasagne may be assembled up to one day ahead, wrapped, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before baking.
(Recipes available at FineCooking.com)
butte but ternu rnutt squa squash sh and swis wisss cha charrd las lasag agne ne Satisfyingly cheesy like a traditional lasagne but bursting with the autumnal flavors of squash and chard, this dish makes a satisfying Thanksgiving Thanksgivin g entrée. Serves 6 to 8
Scoop the flesh from the squash into a medium bowl, and mash with a fork until free of lumps. Add the squash, ½ cup of the Parmigiano, the sage, nutmeg, 1 tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper to the sauce in the pan, and season to taste with more salt
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
and pepper. Heat the 2 Tbs. of oil in a large skillet
1 medium butternut squash (about 2¾ lb.), halved lengthwise and seeded
over medium heat. Add the onion and
3½ cups whole milk
4 Tbs. unsalted butter
6 Tbs. all-purpose flour
1½ oz. finely grated ParmigianoReggiano or Grana Padano (about 1½ cups) ½ tsp. finely chopped fresh sage tsp. fres freshly hly grate grated d nutm nutmeg eg
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small yellow onion, coarsely
chopped chop ped (abou ( aboutt cup) 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 lb. Swiss chard (about 2 large bunches), stems thinly sliced and leaves cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide pieces
cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chard stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the chard leaves in batches, stirring and allowing to wilt before adding another batch. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the reserved 1 cup of sauce, ½ cup of the Parmigiano, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper, and stir to coat the chard. In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, egg, the remaining ½ cup of Parmigiano, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Lightly oil a 9x13-inch baking dish.
1 lb. ricotta
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Evenly spread 1¼ cups of the squash
8 oz. instant (no-boil) lasagna noodles
sauce in the bottom of the dish. Cover
9 oz. fontina, grated (about 2¾ cups)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400°F 400°F.. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and lightly brush with oil. Put the squash cut side down on the sheet, and roast until fork tender, about 60 minutes. Set aside to cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Heat the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat until bubbles form around the side of the pan, about 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and cover. Melt the butter in a medium sauce-pan over medium heat. Add the flour, and whisk until smooth. Continue to cook, whisking constantly without browning, for about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add the milk and cook, continuing to whisk, until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Remove 1 cup of the sauce, cover, and reserve. Remove the pan with the remaining sauce from the heat.
with a layer of noodles, then layer in one-fourth of the remaining squash sauce, one-fourth of the chard mixture, and one-fourth of the fontina. Dollop one-fourth of the ricotta mixture on top. Beginning again with a layer of noodles, repeat the layering as directed above three more times. Bake until the edges of the lasagne are browned and bubbly, rotating the pan halfway through baking, 45 to 55 minutes. Heat the broiler on high. Broil for 1 to 2 minutes to brown the top. Cool for about 15 minutes before serving. Pair With: CHARDONNAY This dish could pair with either a light red or a heavy white. Because of the softer flavors here, white wins. Try a Chardonnay from California—its richness will offset any bitterness in the chard.
FINECOOKING.COM
heirloom bean and potato cassoulet With deeply developed flavors and aromas that satisfy and entice, this cassoulet has everything you would expect from this homey French classic, except all the meat. Serves 8 1 lb. dried beans, preferably yellow eye or cranberry, picked over, rinsed, and drained
the kale, stirring and adding it in batches onion and cook, stirring occasionally,
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into medium dice (about 5½ cups)
the cooked onion to a blender with
3 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into medium dice (about 3½ cups)
¾ cup plus 2 Tbs. olive oil
shallots and cook, stirring, until lightly
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 bunch kale (about 1 lb.), stems removed, leaves and stems cut into 1-inch pieces 2 medium white onions, diced (about 3 cups)
4 cups plus 3 Tbs. vegetable stock or broth; more as needed 2 medium shallots, minced (abo ut cup) c up)
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs. pickled jalapeños (or sweet pickled peppers), finely chopped; more for serving
1 cup plain panko
and bring to a simmer over medium until the beans soak up some of the stir in the roasted potatoes, kale, lemon
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Put the beans in a large pot with enough
a boil over high heat, cover, remove
large skillet over medium-high heat,
(Alternatively, soak the beans refriger-
Sprinkle the top of the cassoulet
the water from the beans, cover with
with the remaining parsley, top with the
panko, return to the oven, and bake until
a simmer, and cook until tender, about
Position a rack in the center of the Put the sweet and russet potatoes in Spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until slightly tender and just beginning to brown,
Pair With: GRENACHE Fruit flavors to work with the sweet potatoes, potatoe s, weight to work with the overall depth of flavor, and acidity to cleanse your palate and ready it for another bite—this wine has it all.
SERVE WITH Sautéed Spinach with Shallots Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Brown Butter and Lemon
59
60
m o H a s s i l e M
S U ZAN N E CU P P S Suzanne Cupps is executive chef of Untitled and Studio Café, Union Square Hospitality Group’s restaurants at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York Yo rk City. City. After earning earning a math degree, Suzanne attended culinary school, then worked in some of the best kitchens in New York City. She creates vegetablecentric menus inspired by the seasons. “I like shifting the focus from meat to vegetables,” Suzanne says. “It’s not about removing meat from our plates but highlighting great seasonal produce and cooking it in delicious ways so that it becomes the star of the meal.”
Make ahead Prepare the beans, roast the potatoes, purée the onion, and sauté the kale, and refrigerate each separately in covered containers up to two days before assembling, baking, and serving. Warm each component, or allow to come to room temperature, before assembling and baking the cassoulet.
SERVE WITH Cider-Glazed Turnips & Apples Grilled Sweet Potato, Pistachio, and Pomegranate Salad (Recipes available at FineCooking.com)
n o s n e B w e h t t a M
CARA MANGINI Cara Mangini is chef and founder of the Little Eater restaurants and farmstand in Columbus, Ohio, and author of the awardwinning book The Vegetable Butcher . Her mission is to putofvegetables at the center the American plate. Cara embraces vegetable cookery every day of the year, but sees extra opportunities at Thanksgiving. “Harvest season is the perfect time to let vegetable-focused main dishes inspire the meal,” she says. “The season presents a range of so many vegetables in their prime; they deserve to be celebrated.”
Make ahead Prepare the leek filling and refrigerate in a covered container up to three days before assembling, baking, and serving the galette. The dough can be made, wrapped tightly in plastic, and refrigerated two days before assembling, or made, wrapped, and frozen for longer storage.
62
Photographs, except where noted, by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
potato and leek galette with rosemary and sea-salt crust butter y Potatoes and leeks baked in a buttery crust are punctuated with the snap of aged provolone and the flavor of rosemary.
comes too dry, about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat
Serves 8 to 10
to cool.
to low, add the cream, and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 1 minute. Set the leeks aside In a large bowl, toss the potatoes with the oil,
FOR THE DOUGH
½ tsp. fine sea salt, 1 tsp. of the rosemary, and ½ tsp.
9 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour
of the lemon zest. In a small bowl, lightly beat the
1 Tbs. granulated sugar
egg with 1 tsp. water to make an egg wash; set aside.
1 tsp. minced fresh rosemary
1 tsp. fine sea salt
MAKE THE GALETTE
5 oz. (10 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter butter,, cut into small pieces
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat
¼ cup ice water water,, plus up to another ¼ cup as needed
to 400°F. Lightly flour the dough, a rolling pin, and a piece of parchment cut to fit a large rimmed baking sheet. Roll
FOR THE FILLING
the dough from the center outward on the parch-
2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more as needed
ment to form a 14-inch diameter circle. (Don’t fret
3 large leeks, white and light-green parts only, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (about 6 cups)
about making a perfect circle, but try to maintain an
Fine sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper
½ cup heavy cream 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (about four medium), peeled and sliced inch in ch thi t hick ck 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1½ tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 large egg
½ cup whole-milk ricotta
3 oz. aged provolone, coarsely grated Flaky sea salt
MAKE THE DOUGH
Pulse the flour, sugar, rosemary, rosemary, and salt in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Add the butter, and pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Sprinkle ¼ cup of the water over the mixture, and pulse to combine. Gently squeeze a handful of crumbs; they should hold together. If they easily break apart, add water 1 Tbs. at a time, up to an additional ¼ cup, pulsing and then checking the consistency after each addition. Dump the mixture onto a work surface, form into a ball, ball , then flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic pl astic wrap, and refrigerate for a minimum of 45 minutes or up to two days. MAKE THE FILLING
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks, l eeks, ½ tsp. t sp. of the fine f ine sea salt, s alt, and a nd tsp. pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender, adding more butter if the pan be-
even thickness.) Transfer the parchment and dough to the baking sheet (the dough will hang over the edges at this point). Leaving a 2-inch border, evenly spread the leek mixture in the center. Stir the potatoes, then lift from the bowl, leaving behind any liquid, and distribute evenly over the leek mixture, overlapping the slices. Tuck any irregularly shaped potato slices under or between the more perfect rounds, making sure to maintain the 2-inch border. Dollop the ricotta over the potatoes, and sprinkle with ½ tsp. flaky sea salt and the remaining ½ tsp. lemon zest, topping each dollop of ricotta with a small pinch of salt and lemon zest. Top the filling with the provolone, the remaining ½ tsp. rosemary, and a grind of fresh pepper. Fold the edge of the dough up and over the filling, pleating it as you go. If the dough sticks to the parchment, refrigerate for 5 to 10 minutes, then continue folding. Brush the folded edge with the egg wash, and sprinkle with ½ tsp. flaky sea salt. Bake, rotating the baking sheet halfway through, until the crust is golden brown, the cheese is golden in places, and the potatoes are tender, 45 to 60 minutes. If the top of the galette is browning too quickly, tent with foil and continue to bake until the potatoes are tender. Transfer to a cooling rack, and let cool for about 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Pair With: VIOGNIER The richness in this galette points points to almost almost any big white white wine, but Viognier has an aromatic quality that’ll nicely complement the creamed leeks.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 63
MAKE
Become a fan of its anise flavor in four fabulous recipes. BY MARTHA HOLMBERG
64
, , , — . Here in the United States, not so much. It may be that people more familiar with fennel seeds (see p. 68), which come from a different variety of fennel, worry that the aniselike flavor might be too strong. But But the vegetable veget able’’s flavor flavor is more more subtl subtle, e, which which mean meanss you you don don’t hav havee to be a black-licorice-lovin black-licorice-lovingg Swede like me to appreciate appreciate it. Read on for more reasons to become a fan.
Fennel is versatile. Raw fennel is crisp and refreshing, especially when very thinly sliced or shaved for salads and slaws. Fennel takes well to all kinds of cooking methods, too, including searing, grilling, roasting, and braising. When cooked, it becomes tender and even more sweet and makes a great side dish or condiment. Fennel is available year-round. A cool-weather crop—it tends to bolt in very hot weather—fennel’s main season is October through April. Tat said, in cooler climates, it’s harvested in summer, so most supermarkets will carry it year-round. Tough it may look a little intimidating at first—large fennel bulbs with their stems and dill-like fronds make me think of bagpipes—your main consideration for choosing and eating is the bulb. It can be quite rounded or slightly flat, but it should look bright white and green with no browning. Te hardy vegetable will keep, like celery, for up to a couple of weeks in the crisper. tri m off the Fennel is a cinch to prepare. o begin, trim stalks; they’re quite fibrous and best saved for stock. Te frilly fronds attached to the stalks can be used like an herb, adding flavor and making a pretty garnish. Te bulb is what you want to eat. For most preparations, you’ll cut the bulb in half lengthwise, which exposes its core. Use a paring knife to remove most of it, but don’t don’t throw it away as it holds lots of flavor, something I learned from f rom testing recipes for Six Seasons, a new cookbook I co-wrote with Joshua McFadden, chef of the veg-centric Ava Gene’s in Portland, Oregon. I now use the core in my cooked fennel dishes, but because because it’s more fibrous, I slice it more thinly or chop it more finely. Once trimmed and cored, you then cut the bulb as the recipe directs.
Fennel plays nice with other foods. Given that fennel hails from the Mediterranean, it’s no surprise that it pairs well with ingredients like oranges, olives, and oregano. You’ll find all of those in the delicious recipes that follow. Once you try these dishes, fennel will become more popular in your cooking, too. Martha Holmberg, Holmberg, a former editor editor in chief of of Fine Cooking , is a food writer, wr iter, recipe developer, developer, and chief executive e xecutive officer of the
mussels with fennel and fregola This recipe comes courtesy of my friend chef Joshua McFadden; a dish similar to this is in our cookbook. I love it so much—it’s fragrant, colorful, and satisfying—that I had to share it here. Feel free to garnish it with a fennel frond or two. Serves 4
1 cup fregola or Israeli couscous Kosher salt
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
1 lb. fennel (about 1 medium bulb), trimmed, cored, and sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick
1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded
stirring occasionally, until soft and golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the garlic and set it aside. Add the fennel, season with ½ tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Increase the heat to medium high. Add the mussels, chorizo, and pepper flakes. Return the garlic to the pan and toss. Add the wine, cover, and cook, shaking the pan
¼ lb. cured into smallchorizo, dice cut ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
occasionally, until the mussels open, about 5 minutes. If some are not open, give them another
½ cup dry white wine
1 to 2 minutes. Discard any
½ cup chopped fresh flatleaf parsley; more to taste
unopened mussels. Add the parsley, zest, juice,
1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
and butter, and shake the pan to
½ cup fresh orange juice
incorporate. Add the fregola, cover cover,,
and remove from the heat for 1 to
2 Tbs. unsalted butter butter,, cut into pieces
Cook the fregola or couscous in well-salted water according to package directions until barely al
2 minutes to warm the fregola. Uncover,, toss, and serve drizzled Uncover with olive oil and topped with additional parsley, if you like.
dente. Drain well, toss with a drizzle of oil, and set aside. Heat the oil in a 7-quart Dutch oven or similar pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook,
Pair With: TORRONTÉS Mus-
cadet is considered classic with mussels, but fruity and aromatic Torrontés also goes well with the orange in this version.
International Internat ional Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 65
pasta with roasted fennel and tomatoes As the fennel and tomatoes roast, their juices mingle to create a luscious sauce. Finocchiona, salami flavored with fennel seeds ( finocchio finocchio is Italian for fennel), reinforces the fennel flavor of the dish. Look for it in the deli or cheese section of your market. Serves 4
1 oz. thinly sliced finocchiona or other salami, cut into thin strips (about ¼ cup)
¼ cup grated pecorino romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano; more to taste
2 Tbs. extra-virgin extra-virgin olive oil; oil; more more as needed
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
8 oz. cavatappi, penne, or other short pasta
4 oz. fresh mozzar mozzarella, ella, coarsely grated ¼ cup drained and chopped mildly spicy or hot peppers in oil (such as Mama Lil’s brand)
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Position a rack in the center of the oven and
1¾ to 2 lb. lb. fennel fennel (1 very large or or 2 medium bulbs), trimmed, cored, and sli ced lengthwise len gthwise inch thick
Pair With: SANGIOVESE Easy on fruit flavors but full of good acidity, Sangiovese is almost always good for tomato-based pastas.aIn fact,choice the wine is known for having flavors of roasted tomato,, just like the ones in this dish. tomato
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fennel “confit” with grilled lamb Like caramelized onions, slowly cooked fennel becomes deep, rich, and sweet tasting. Paired with a lemony, gremolatalike herb garnish, it’s a great accom paniment to lamb chops coated in crushed fennel seeds. Serves 4
Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a large
fennel seeds onto all sides. Let the chops sit
skillet. Add the smashed garlic, and cook until
at room temperature for 20 minutes, or cover
it’s soft, fragrant, and lightly browned, 2½ to
and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Just before cooking, combine the parsley,
3 minutes; don’t let it get too dark, which would make it taste bitter. Add the fennel, toss with ½ tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper, reduce
lemon zest and juice, oregano, and minced
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
the heat to low, and cover the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fennel is slightly soft
salt, pepper, and lemon juice; it should taste bright and zingy.
3 medium cloves garlic, 2 smashed and peeled, 1 minced
and translucent, about 20 minutes. Remove
1 to 1¼ lb. fennel (about 1 medium bulb), trimmed, cored, and sliced lengthwise length wise inch thick (reserve (re serve some fennel fronds for garnish)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. fennel seeds
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
8 lamb rib chops
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
Grill or sear the chops over medium-high
the lid, and continue to cook over very low heat,
heat, flipping once and adjusting the heat as
scraping occasionally. You’ll begin to see the
necessary,, until cooked to your liking, 4 to 6 minnecessary
juices caramelizi caramelizing ng on the base of the pan—yo pan—you u
utes total for medium rare (130°F). Serve the chops topped with the herb mixture, the confit,
want to scrape those up and incorporate them into the fennel. Continue cooking until the fennel is very tender and sweet, 40 to 50 minutes total. If not using right away, let cool, then cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days. Reheat gently before serving. Combine the fennel seeds and pepper flakes in a mortar and pestle, and crush the fennel seeds. Season the chops with salt
1½ Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more more as needed 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh oregano
garlic in a small bowl; season with a bit more
and pepper, and press the pepper flakes and
and fennel fronds, if you like. Pair With: SYRAH Big, bright, and full of lush fruit flavors, Syrah is almost always amazing with lamb, but it’s especially perfect here because of the fennel confit—the wine has green herbal notes that’ll make the dish sing.
How to core and shave fennel
All about fennel Fennel seeds: seeds: Harvested from common
fennel, which bulbless, fennel seed has aisstrong licorice flavor and is often used whole, crushed, or ground in cahoots with fresh fennel. It pairs especially well with pork.
Fronds: Fronds: fronds make a lovely garnish while adding delicate flavor.
Fennel pollen: With hints of honey and citrus as well as licorice, this golden powder packs a lively punch, and a
Bulb: where the action is. When a recipe calls for fresh fennel, it means
sprinkled on fish or whisked into a vinaigrette.
this part.
To core fennel, remove the w oodiest part of the core with a paring knife. If slicing the bulb lengthwise, leave enough core to keep the slices intact.
Stalks: While Stalks: too fibrous for most cooking, stalks can infuse flavor
in stocks and may be pickled, too.
Use a mandoline to shave fennel. In raw dishes, like salad, you want the thinnest possible slices. Slicing lengthwise creates good-looking pieces.
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shaved fennel salad with oranges, black olives, and pistachios With its sweet and salty flavors, this colorful salad makes a superb first course and would also work well as a side to a rich braise. A short soak in ice water makes thin slices of fennel super crisp and refreshing. Serves 4
1 to 1¼ lb. fennel (about 1 medium bulb)
3 medium blood oranges or small navel oranges
cup roasted and shelle shelled d pistach pistachios, ios, half coarsely chopped and half finely chopped
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red-wine vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
cup oil-cure oil-cured d black olives, pitted and halved 3 Tbs. coarsely coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf flat-leaf parsley parsley
Pinch or two fennel pollen (optional)
If the outside of the fennel bulb looks very fibrous, peel the outer layer using a vegetable peeler. p eeler. Cut the bulb in half lengthwise, and slice it lengthwise as thinly as you can, preferably with a mandoline. Pile the slices in a large bowl and fill with ice water. Soak about 20 minutes to make them crisp. Meanwhile, segment the oranges: Cut a thin slice off the top and bottom of an orange to make flat surfaces. Stand the orange on the work surface, and slice off the peel and the underlying white pith, working your way from top to bottom following the curve of the fruit. Holding the orange over a bowl to catch the juices, carefully slide the knife between the flesh and the membrane of each segment, freeing the flesh. Tip the segments into the bowl as you release each one. When you’re finished, squeeze the remaining membrane to capture any juice. Repeat with the remaining two oranges. Pour off most of the juice into a small bowl. Drain the fennel slices thoroughly, and pat dry with paper towels. Toss the fennel, orange segments, finely chopped nuts, vinegar, and enough of the reserved juice to make make the salad nicely nicely moist; you you won’t need need all of it. Season generously with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning so that it’s very vibrant. Add the olive oil, and toss again. Transfer to a platter or plates. Scatter the olives, coarsely chopped nuts, parsley, and fennel pollen, if you like, on top; serve cold. Pair With: SPARKLING WINE Salads with vinai grette dressings dressings are wonderful wonderful with sparkling sparkling wine because both are bright, light, and refreshing. Besides, is there a better way to start a meal than with bubbles?
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
FINECOOKING.COM
Dresse Dr essed d Up Up
Pork Chop hopss Seared, stuffed, pan-roasted, and breaded and
pan-fried, these four recipes will soon become some of your favorite go-to dinner options—even for guests. BY RONNE DAY
, pork chops might not spring to mind. We
rib pork chop, with each delivering a different approach to flavor and preparation.
tend to associate this affordable and accessible cut of meat with weeknight meals, but the truth is that the t he humble pork chop can be deliciously dressed up to suit any occasion. Mild in taste, they are perfect for absorbing the flavors of brines, marinades, and rubs. Te important thing is not to overcook them. (Pork now can be safely cooked to medium/medium rare. For best results, monitor doneness by temperature not cooking time. Look for an internal temperature from 135°F to 140°F for just slightly pink chops, which is the key to keeping them juicy and tender tender.) .) As a food stylist as well as a recipe developer,, I’m partial to bone-in rib developer chops, especially when the bone is frenched (see p. 72). Not only does this cut look impressive on the plate, but the bone also delivers on flavor and juiciness as it insulates the meat around it during
Simple-to-prepare Simple-to-p repare breaded bonein pork chops are the perfect foil for peppery greens topped with a lemony dressing studded with citrusysweet mostarda. Succulent and flavorfully browned, pan-seared pork chops are transformed into something grand when draped in a decadent sauce made from veal demi-glace and bacon lardons. Roasted bone-in chops with artichokes and potatoes glazed in balsamic and thyme make a flavorful one-pot meal. And finally, double-thick chops are brined, then stuffed with sauerkrau s auerkraut, t, apples, rye breadcrumbs, and cheese for an impressive meal. You’ll find that these pork chop recipes easily fit the bill whether they’ree for a weeknight dinner or a they’r holiday meal.
cooking, helping to keep it moist. Te four recipes that follow celebrate the versatility of a bone-in
Ronne Day is senior food editor/stylist for Fine Cooking. Cooking.
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FINECOOKING.COM
TIPS FOR GETTING
A GREAT SEAR Start with thick chops. They are forgiving and can be seared
Use high heat. Make sure the pan is well heated before adding the
to a deep golden brown without overcooking. Thick chops are also versatile and can be pounded thin for quick-cooking techniques like pan-frying.
chop(s), and don’t overcrowd the pan. Crowding will make the surface temperature of the pan drop rapidly, increasing browning time and the chances of overcooking.
Blot the surface of the chop dry before searing. To promote the development of a good brown crust, the surface of the chop should be dry when it hits the pan.
Sear the sides of the chop, too. Lift the chop with w ith tongs while it is browning in the pan, and rotate the chop, keeping the fatty edge in contact with the hot surface to brown it evenly.
how to FRENCH a chop
1
Trim meat, fat, sinew away from the inner and outer curvethe of the end of and the bone.
2
Scrape the bone clean with the sharp edge of your knife.
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72
roast pork chops with baby artichokes and new potatoes This skillet dinner—with a pinch of cumin and a splash of balsamic—develops a sauce that delivers on flavor. To To serve four, you can double the recipe and transfer transfer everything to a roasting pan after searing the chops. Serves 2
1 tsp. cumin seeds Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 thick bone-in rib pork chops (about 2 lb.), trimmed and frenched (see facing page)
2 Tbs. olive oil
9 oz. fresh baby artichokes or frozen artichoke hearts, thawed
8 oz. baby new potatoes, halved
3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2½ cups lower-salt chicken broth
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1½ Tbs. white balsamic vinegar
1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
2 tsp. finely sliced fresh chives
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400°F. In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds, stirring over mediumhigh heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a powder, then combine with ½ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper. Season the pork chops all over with the spice mix. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and sear the chops, in batches if necessary, while spooning oil from the pan over the bone to baste, until each side is deep golden brown. Then, using a pair of tongs, lift the chops to sear the sides (see facing page), about 4 minutes total. Tr Transfer ansfer the chops to a plate. Add the artichokes and potatoes to the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned in spots, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add 1½ cups of the chicken broth to the pan, stirring to scrape up any browned bits. Cook until the potatoes are just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Nestle the pork chops in the pan, add the thyme, and roast until an instant-read thermometer thermometer inserted in the center of a chop reads 135°F, about 6 minutes. Leaving the thyme sprigs in the pan, p an, transfer the chops and vegetables to a plate, and tent with foil. Return the skillet to the stovetop over medium heat, and reduce the liquid in the pan until almost completely evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the vinegar, stirring to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, then add the remaining 1 cup broth, and bring to a boil. Remove the thyme springs, then whisk in the butter. Cook to reduce slightly, about 2 minutes, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the chops to the pan and spoon some sauce over the tops. Add the vegetables, sprinkle with the chives, and serve.
Artichokes okes are considered Pair With: CRISP CHARDONNAY Artich challenging for food and wine pairing, but a dish’s overall characteristics are always more important than its individual ingredients. Here, meaty chops, rich potatoes, and a bright, buttery sauce all point to Chardonnay.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 73
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
pork chops milanese You can’t have too much of the sweet-sour dressing to sop up the crispy bites of pork chop—it’s a perfect marriage. Serves 4
Have ready three shallow bowls large enough to hold one pork chop at a time. In one bowl, combine the flour and red pepper; in another, beat the eggs with 2 Tbs. water; and in the third, combine the panko, Parmigiano, Parmigiano, parsley, 1 tsp. salt, and ½ tsp. pepper.
½ cup fresh lemon juice ½ cup finely chopped mixed-fruit mostarda (see Note)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cups olive oil
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 200°F.. Put an oven-safe wire rack on a rimmed baking 200°F sheet and set it in the oven. Dredge each pork chop in the flour, then egg, and finally panko, lightly pressing the panko to adhere.
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
4 thick bone-in rib pork chops (about 3 lb. total), trimmed and frenched (see p. 72)
Transfer Tr ansfer to a plate. Heat ¼ cup of the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large nonstick skillet. Fry one chop at a time, continually
4 ½ oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour
basting by spooning the hot oil over the thicker side of
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, ground in a spice grinder
the chop until golden brown and just cooked through,
4 large eggs
2 cup plain panko
½ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
6 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 packed cup baby arugula
Lemon wedges, for serving
Flaky sea salt, for serving
about 2½ minutes per side, then transfer to the wire rack in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining chops, wiping out the pan and adding ¼ cup oil for each. Serve the chops with the arugula and a drizzle of the dressing. Pass the lemon wedges, flaky salt, and any extra dressing at the table.
In a small bowl, combine the lemon, mostarda, ½ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. p epper. Whisk in i n cup of the t he olive oil o il
Note: From Northern Italy, Mostarda is a relishlike candied and spiced fruit condiment. If you can’t find it (see Sources, p. 100), consider switching the dressing to a honey-mustard vinaigrette to mimic its flavor.
and the extra-virgin olive oil. Set aside. Put each chop between two pieces of plastic wrap, and pound with a mallet until about ¼ inch thick (because of the bone, it will not be of even thickness). Season both sides with salt and pepper.
Pair With: PINOT GRIGIO Although these chops are hearty from the breading and pan-frying, the bright acidity of the dressing and lemon wedges calls for a similarly bright wine.
POUNDING the chop
Pounding the chop allows iton to cook quickly; leavingitthe bone in gives a beautiful presentati presentation and helps to ensure stays moist during cooking. Pound the chop between two pieces of plastic wrap until it is ¼ to ½ inch thick.
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75
seared pork chops with watercress mashed potatoes The briny bite of the green peppercorns is essential to this sauce and pairs wonderfully with the rich flavors and textures of the dish. If you don’t have them on hand, you can substitute capers. Serves 4
2 large russet potatoes (about 1 lb. 12 oz.), peeled and cut into large chunks Kosher salt
4 oz. crème fraîche (about ½ cup)
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
½ lb. slab bacon, cut lengthwise into ½-inch slices and crosswise into ½-inch lardons ½ cup finely chopped shallots (about 2 medium)
2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
1 cup dry white wine
3 oz. veal demi-glace, such as Demi-Glace Gold
2 Tbs. green peppercorns, preferably jarred, rinsed
4 bone-in rib pork chops (about 3 lb. total), trimmed and frenched
3 Tbs. olive oil ¼ cup heavy cream
2 Tbs. finely chopped watercress, plus small sprigs for garnish
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh tarragon
Put the potatoes in a large pot, and add a liberal sprinkle of salt and enough water to cover
heat to medium low and simmer, uncovered, uncovered, until the potatoes are easily pierced with a Put a rimmed baking sheet on a rack in the Put the lardons in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring, until Cook the shallots in the fat remaining in the pan, stirring frequently until they begin the wine and cook, stirring, until the pan is
Generously season the chops on both
Heat the oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat, and sear the chops, in batches if necessary, while spooning oil from the pan over the bone to baste until each side is deep rimmed baking sheet in the oven and bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted in Meanwhile, stir the heavy cream into the sauce and bring to a low simmer, stirring Fold the chopped watercress and tarragon lean a chop on the potatoes, drizzle with the sauce, and top with a few lardons, a couple of sprigs of watercress, and a few grinds of Pair With: PINOT NOIR Look for a Pinot from France, aka Red Burgundy, or Oregon—it’ll have more earthyand notes to complement the bacon peppercorns.
76
beer be er-br -brin ined ed por pork k cho chops ps wit with h wild wild mu mushr shroo oom m stu stuffing ffing Stuffed, seared, and baked, these chops are infused with the flavors of the filling while the juices from the chops seep see p into into the the stuff stuffing ing to to make make a heav heav-enly marriage of the two. Serves 2 to 4
high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring once or twice, until they begin to brown, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer half of the mushrooms to
the chop
STUFFING
a small bowl. Transfer the remaining mushrooms to a medium bowl and combine with
2 double rib pork chops (about 3 lb. total), trimmed
the sauerkraut, apple, ¼ tsp. salt, and ¼ tsp. pepper. Let cool to room temperature,
and frenched (see p. 72) 2 12-oz. bottles German beer, such as Oktoberfest; more as needed
then toss with the cheese and bread.
Kosher salt
Remove the pork chops from the brine and pat dry. Pack the stuffing, evenly divid-
¼ packed cup dark brown sugar
ing it into the two chops and pressing it
¼ cup cider vinegar
firmly into the cavity as you go. Thread two
1 tsp. crushed juniper berries
or three toothpicks through each side of
1 tsp. black peppercorns
the opening to seal. Season both sides of each chop generously with salt and pepper.
¼ cup plus 3 Tbs. olive oil
3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter 8 oz. sliced mixed mushrooms, such as oyster oyster,, shiitake, cremini, and maitake (about 4 cups)
½ cup drained sauerkraut
1 small apple, such as Gala or Honey Crisp, peeled and cut into small dice, (about ½ cup) Freshly ground black pepper
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 375°F. Heat the remaining ¼ cup of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and sear the chops, in batches if necessary, while spooning oil from the pan over the bone to baste until each side is deep golden brown. Then, using a pair of tongs, lift the
½ cup grated Emmentaler
chops to sear the sides (see p. 72), about 5
1½ cups seeded rye bread, lightly toasted and cut into ½-inch cubes
minutes total. Place the chops in a roasting
¼ cup all-purpose flour
instant-read thermometer inserted near
2 cups lower-salt chicken stock
but not touching the bone registers 135°F 1 35°F,,
2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
15 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a serving plat-
½ tsp. spicy brown mustard, such as Kosciusko
pan, transfer to the oven, and cook until an
ter, remove the toothpicks, and tent with
Cut a 5- to 6-inch horizontal slit in the
foil for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, set the roasting pan over two
center of the side of each double chop,
burners on low heat, and add the remaining
and wiggle your knife up and down inside
3 Tbs. of butter butter.. As the butter melts, scrape
the cut to form a generous pocket (see
up any brown bits from the bottom of the
above right). Reserve ½ cup of beer. In a large
pan. Sprinkle the flour into the pan. Whisk-
saucepan over medium heat, combine the
beer and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes.
remaining beer with 2 cups of water, ¼ cup
Slowly pour about ½ cup of the chicken stock
salt, the brown sugar sugar,, vinegar, juniper berries, and peppercorns, stirring gently until the salt
into the pan while whisking vigorously. vigorously. As soon as it thickens, whisk in another ½ cup
and sugar dissolve, about 1 minute. Remove
of stock. Whisk in the remaining stock, add
the pan from the heat, and allow the brine to
the reserved mushrooms, bring the gravy
cool to room temperature, then transfer to a
to a simmer over medium-high heat, and
large heavy-duty zip-top plastic bag. Add the chops, and expel as much air as possible as
cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens, about
you seal the bag. Refrigerate for a minimum
per, the dill, and mustard, and serve with the stuffed chops.
of 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
ing constantly, constantly, add the remaining ½ cup of
8 minutes. Season with ½ tsp. salt, ¼ tsp. pep-
In a large skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil and 3 Tbs. of the butter over medium-
Pair With: OKTOBERFEST BEER or
MÄRZEN The beer or wine that’s that’s in a recipe is always a good bet to serve alongside. Here, it’s especially so—the beer has richness, toasty notes, and a slight sweetness to marry with similar
Make a deep horizontal cut in the center of the double chop. Open the pocket wider for stuffing by moving your knife up and down.
qualities in the food.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 77
CHEFS’ FAVORITE FAVORITE T TO OOL OLS S The pros tell us what kitchen equipment they love the most and why. W . While some of these items are universally indispensable, you may be surprised to find that many are simple, inexpensive gadgets. Read on, then let us know what cooking tools you can’t live without at
[email protected].
Oliver Ridgeway Executive chef, chef, Grange Restaurant & Bar, Sacramento, California
“My Microplane grater has many good uses, the most obvious being zesting citrus and grating cheese, nutmeg, or fresh ginger and garlic. But it’s also really good for adding intense intense fresh flavors, such as that nice tang of fresh horseradish to beef tartare. I use it to grate fresh purple purple cauliflower over a brilliant white cauliflower cream soup; it’s stunning! I’ve also grated macadamia nuts so that they look like snow atop snapper ceviche.”
Marcus Samuelsson
Bill McDaniel
Chef, Red Rooster, Harlem, New York
Executive chef, Motel Morris, New York, New York
“Everyone should have a cast-
“To get super-thin slices of onion for
iron skillet. It’s the pan for everything. It goes easily from stovetop to oven, has fantastic heat conductivity that is even and constant, and the surface is perfection in nonstick. It’s the tool I use most often. The best seasoned are those that have been handed down through generations.”
cooking or eating raw, or for cutting vegetables of uniform thickness to make them au gratin, there is no better tool than the Benriner mandoline. It’s light and compact, and the blade maintains a sharp edge. For the price, there isn’t a better mandoline on the market.”
Charlie Foster Charlie Executive chef, Woods Hill Table, Concord, Massachusetts
“One of my favorite tools to have in the kitchen is a good boning
knife with a flexible f lexible blade. It’s versatile, yielding clean cuts of meat as well as fillets of fish. ”
78
Sara Bradley Owner/chef, Freight House, Paducah, Kentucky
“It can be challenging to tell what is going on inside food as it cooks. That’s why I love my cake tester; the tester; the metal skewer tells me what’s happening inside what I’m cooking. I rarely use it on cake, but almost exclusively on meat, vegetables, and other savory items. It’s so sensitive that when I pierce something, I can tell how soft or firm it is, and when I remove it, by touching the metal, I can feel its internal temperature, too.”
Ravi Kapur Chef, Liholiho Yacht Club, San Francisco, Francisco, California California
“I love my Gangy Japanese can opener. It’s virtually indestructible.”
Germano Minin Executive chef, Village Tavern, Ridgefield, Connecticut
“I can’t live Melissa Harrison Chef/owner, Seasonal Montana, Ennis, Montana
“My My Vitamix Vitamix emulsifies emulsifies like no other, making the best sauces, vinaigrettes, aïoli, and purées. It will blend almost anything you put in it and makes great juices and soups. It’s great for making delicious milkshakes and smoothies, too.”
without my old-style metal old-style metal potato peeler. It’s peeler. It’s perfect for making fine shavings of vegetables or of hard cheeses like Parmigiano for salads and pastas. I also use it for shaving a block of chocolate to garnish my desserts. I even use its handle to scale whole fish—it works like a charm. ”
Will Horowitz Brian Murphy Executive chef, Nostrana, Portland, Oregon
granite mortars, stone-age technology that modern “I like big marble or granite mortars,
Owner/executive chef, Ducks Eatery, New York, New York
“A good pocket knife is invalu-
engineering has yet to replace. They are heavy enough to stay put through pounding, and the rough surface has the right toothiness to grind ingredients
able. Currently, I am loving my Kershaw Leek knife. From knife. From foraging and harvesting in the gar-
thoroughly. The food processor begs to take over pesto duty, but it can’t replicate the flavor or texture I can get with a mortar and pestle. And if there’s music playing in the kitchen, it’s hard not to pound along with the beat. ”
den to the kitchen where I use it to shuck oysters and break down boxes, it just can’t be beat. ”
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 79
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
Get Ro Rolling Pogaca, light, airy rolls from Turkey Turkey,, are wonderful wonder ful with, well, turkey; try them plain or stuffed. BY MAURA KILPATRICK
A S, that I opened with che Ana Sortun in 2008 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, Massachusetts, most o my baking ocuses on sweet and savory
and baking. Te filled breads may be served simply shaped into an oval or more elaborately ashioned in an impressive rose shape that’s easier to make than it looks, especially with the help o the t he step-by-step photos on p. 84. Fillings can be savory or sweet, and the options are endless. Some o the fillings
dishes rom the Middle East. I’m not Middle Eastern, and neither is Ana; we met in 1996 when both o us were cooking under Monce Meddeb, the esteemed unisian che, at his 8 Holyoke restaurant, also in Cambridge. In the ensuing years, we’ve both traveled extensively throughout Lebanon and urkey studying ingredients, recipes, recipes, and techniques. All this t his is to say that when it comes to making rolls or
I offer here are Middle Eastern inspired, such as eta and parsley or a ragrantly spiced date butter. [Editor’s note: We ell hard or the date filling.] I’ve also come up with some flavors that speak to my own American holiday memories. My mom put sausage in her turkey stuffing, so one pogaca always on our Tanksgiving menu is based on that; the roll itsel takes the place o the bread, and the sausage is cooked with amiliar stuffing flavors like onion, celery celer y, and thyme. As I am a pastry che by training, I just have to offer up a sweet filling, in this case tenderly cooked, lightly caramelized apples or a sweet roll that can take the place o a slice o
Tanksgiving, I make pogaca, a light, sof, airy piePogaca at dinner’s roll that hails rom urkey. are end. best served on the day they are Pronounced po-ah-cha and loosely transmade. But don’t ret; you don’t have to do all made. lated as “hearth bread,” pogaca are most o the work on Tanksgiving Day. You can fill ofen served at breakast and with tea. Whether and shape your pogaca a day in advance. Te plain or stuffed with cheese, vegetables, or pogaca can also be rozen right afer shaping meat, they also fit right in at the dinner table. and baked resh on Tanksgiving (see p. 83 A basket o them, especially i some are filled, or details). Given all o this, there’s there’s really no would make Tanksgiving—or any holiday, reason not to include a little urkey urkey with your really—eel even more special. turkey this year. Pogaca are easy to make, especially i you have a stand mixer with a dough hook. Te Maura Kilpatrick Maura Kilpatrick is executive executive pastry chef dough comes together beautiully and is a and partner of Sofra Bakery. She’s also codream to handle. Tere are many varieties and author, with chef Ana Sortun, of Soramiz: shapes or pogaca, which is ound in other cuisines, too. Making plain round rolls is just Vibrant Vibra nt&Middle Bakery Cae. Eastern Recipes rom Sora a matter o shaping pieces o dough into balls
80
A variety of shapes shapes and fillings makes an an impressive basket fit for the holiday table.
FINECOOKING.COM
81
pogaca rolls These Turkish Turkish rolls can be made in different shapes and with or without fillings, filli ngs, which makes them fun to tailor to the Thanksgiving menu and beyond. Note that there are a re three sets of instructions for shaping within the recipe below, two of which are a re for stuffed rolls. Makes 17 plain or stuffed oval rolls; makes 13 rose-shaped rolls FOR THE DOUGH
MAKE THE DOUGH
TO SHAPE ANDBAKE PLAIN PLAIN,, UNFILLED UNFILLED ROLL ROLLS S
Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment.
1 Tbs. (9 grams) active dry yeast
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the milk, yeast, and sugar. Set aside until foamy, about
2 tsp. granulated sugar
5 minutes. Whisk in the egg and oil. Put the
1 large egg
dough hook on the stand mixer mixer.. Add the flour fl our
the dough out onto it. Deflate the dough and
½ cup canola oil; more as needed
and salt, and mix on low speed until the flour
13½ oz. (3 cups) all-purpose flour; more as needed
is incorporated, scraping the bowl as needed.
each piece into a ball and place on the baking
Increase the speed to medium low, and knead
less if you like the flat-edge look shown above.
(Alternatively, combine and knead the dry
Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room
ingredients by hand.) Lightly flour a work surface, and lightly oil
temperature until an indentation remains after
1 cup whole milk, warmed to 105°F
2 tsp. kosher salt
FOR SHAPING AND BAKING
Filling of your choice if making stuffed rolls (see recipes, p. 85) 1 large egg
1 tsp. whole milk
surface and sprinkle lightly with flour. Shape
3 Tbs. sesame seeds or poppyseeds (optional) or 2 Tbs. demerara or
into a ball, and transfer to the bowl. Cover with
sanding sugar (optional), depending on filling choice
Lightly flour a clean work surface, and turn
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of Whisk the egg and milk, and lightly brush
plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature
each roll with the wash. Sprinkle with poppy
directed in one of the following three ways.
or sesame seeds, if you like. Bake until golden sheet set on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature, preferably on the same day.
82
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
TO SHAPE AND BAKE FILLED OVAL ROLLS
Lightly flour a work surface, and turn the dough onto it. Deflate the dough and divide into 17 pieces, about 1½ oz. each. Roll each piece into a ball, cover with plastic wrap, and let l et rise at room temperature until an indentation remains after you press a roll with a finger, 30 to 40 minutes. Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment. Press or roll a dough ball into a 4- to 4½-inch circle. Place about 1½ Tbs. of the filling in the center of the dough circle. Pull up two sides to enclose the filling. Seal the dough by pinching with your fingertips. Turn the roll over so that it’s seam side down, and gently roll into an oval or football shape. Place seam side down on the prepared baking sheet, and cover with plastic wrap. Repeat with the
Center the filling on the dough round.
Pull up the sides around the filling.
Pinch the two sides closed.
Flip and gently roll into an oval.
remaining balls of dough, leaving at least 2 inches between the rolls. Let rise at room temperature until almost doubled in size, 30 to 40 minutes. Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350°F. Whisk the egg and milk, and lightly brush each roll with the wash. If using the sausage or date filling, sprinkle with sesame seeds. If using the apple filling, sprinkle with the demerara sugar. Bake, swapping and rotating the pans about halfway through, until light golden brown, 28 to 33 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet set on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature, preferably on the same day.
Make ahead You can can shape the pogaca a day ahead. Before the final rise, cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Let them have their final rise at room temperature as directed, and then bake as directed. You can can also freeze them on a baking sheet before the final rise and transfer to a freezer bag once frozen solid. Thaw overnight in the before allowing riserefrigerator at room temperature for 1 toto 1½ hours, then bake as directed. The great thing about this option is that you can thaw just a few at a time and
have pogaca whenever you want.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 83
Make four evenly spaced slits in the dough circle,
Place a heaping tablespoon of filling in the middle.
leaving the middle uncut.
Fold one-quarter one-quarter of dough the around the filling
Fold the opposite quarter up, folding about ¼ inch
to partially enclose but not cover.
of the dough edge back to form an open petal.
Fold another quarter up and around in the same manner.
Repeat with the final quarter quarter,, tucking the sides of the
Gently pinch the dough where it meets to secure.
final petal under the flower and pinching to secure.
84
FUN WITH FILLINGS TO SHAPE AND BAKE BAKE ROSE-SHAPED FILLED ROLLS
From an easy two-ingredient herb and cheese mixture to a sausage flavored like Thanksgiving stuffing to sweet apples perfect for dessert, pogaca fillings can run the gamut. Use the ones here or experiment with others, such as caramelized onions, mashed potatoes, or sweetened cranberries. The yields make enough for one batch of dough.
Lightly flour a work surface, and turn the dough onto it. Deflate the dough, and divide into 13 pieces, about 2 oz. each. Roll each piece into a ball, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until an indentation remains after you press a roll with a finger, 30 to 40 minutes. Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment. Lightly flour a work surface. Roll or press a dough ball into a 5-inch circle. Starting from the edge and heading toward the center, cut four evenly spaced slits, each about 1½ inches long, into the circle (see photos at left). Place about 1½ Tbs. of the filling in the center.. Wrap one quarter of the dough center around the filling; the dough will partially cover but not fully enclose the filling. As you wrap, fold ¼ inch of the top of the
thanksgiving-style sausage A sauté of celery, onions, and thyme gives this sausage filling the flavor of a classic stuffing. Makes about 3 cups Melt 1½ Tbs. unsalted butter in a large skillet over low heat. Add 1½ cups chopped yellow onion and ½ cup finely diced celery, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate or shallow bowl to cool. Add ¾ lb. sweet Italian sausage (casings removed) to the skillet, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally and breaking up any chunks, until browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the sausage to the onion mixture, and let cool completely. Stir in 1½ Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, 1½ tsp. chopp chopped ed fresh thyme, ¾ tsp. tsp . kosher
mint through a medium-mesh sieve into a small mixing bowl to remove any bits bi ts of stem and make a fine powder. Add 2 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper and 1 Tbs. each of ground cinnamon, cinnamon, nutmeg, nutmeg, cumin, and coriander. Add 1½ tsp. ground allspice, allspice, and stir well. (The spice rub will keep for months stored airtight.) In a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine 2 cups chopped pitted Medjool dates and 4 oz. (8 Tbs.) softened unsalted butter on medium speed until the butter is no longer visible. Add 2 Tbs. of the spice mix, then mix by hand until incorporated. Transfer Transfer to a small bowl. (The butter can be prepared up to one week in advance; keep covered and refrigerated.)
fresh ly ground black pepper. salt, and ½ tsp. freshly (The filling can be prepared up to 3 days in advance; keep covered and refrigerated.)
dough edge back to form an open petal. Fold the dough quarter opposite the first quarter around the filling and fold back
feta and fresh parsley
the top to form an open petal. Secure the dough on the bottom with a pinch. Wrap
Though this filling couldn’t be easier to make, it packs a bright punch of flavor, and the green flecks make it especially pretty. Makes about 2 cups
and fold a third quarter in the same manner. Then, when folding the final quarter over,, tuck the edges underneath the over rose, and pinch to secure. Place on the
Combine 8 oz. crumbled feta (1¾ cups) with
prepared baking sheet, and cover with
3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley parsley..
plastic wrap. Repeat with the remaining balls of dough, leaving at least 2 inches between the rolls. Let rise at room temperature, until almost doubled, 30 to
Peel, core, and cut 2 lb. apples, such as Granny Smith Smit h or Honey Crisp into ¼-inch
Position a rack in the center of the
dice to yield about 5 cups. Combine Combi ne ¾ cup
oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Whisk the egg and milk. Lightly brush
sesame seeds. If using the apple filling, sprinkle with the demerara sugar. Bake, swapping and rotating the pans about halfway through, until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet set on a wire rack. Serve warm or room temperature, preferably on the same day.
While savory rolls are delicious with dinner, sweet ones make a lovely des sert or breakfast breakfast treat. This one will remind you of apple pie. Makes 2 cups
45 minutes.
the dough with the egg wash. If using the sausage or date filling, sprinkle with
caramelized apples and golden raisins
spiced date butter The spice mix used here, called baharat, is a signature flavoring at the restaurant, and it takes this driedfruit filling to the savory side. The spice mix is also delicious on roast lamb, chicken, squash, pumpkin, carrots, and
granulated sugar with 2 Tbs. water and granulated 1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice in a large skillet. Heat over medium-low heat without stirring at first and swirling the pan to cook the sugar evenly, until a light caramel color, about 10 1 0 minutes. minutes . Add the apples and cup golden raisins. raisins. Cook, tossing occasionally, until the apples are soft when pierced with a knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool, and then refrigerate until cold. (The filling can be
more. Makes about 2 cups
prepared up to 3 days ahead; keep covered and refrigerated.) Stir the filling thoroughly
Pass 2 Tbs. dried oregano and 2 Tbs. dried
before using.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 85
Usually ato supporting player, this buttery topping gets its chance BY KAREN D MASCO shine in desserts andcrumbly, baked treats. E
I — , , — when I was a pastry cook at Gramercy avern in New York City. One o our popular desserts was a ruit crisp. While the seasonal ruit was always a hit, our customers went wild or the
huge at any point in the year, but especially during the holidays. I’m never too ar away rom a batch o jam-filled bar cookies or a coffee cake. Streusel is also versatile, both in flavor and in how it’s featured. I’m sharing three o my avorite streusels here: Marcona almond;
crunchy, nutty, cinnamon-spiked streusel, a perect complement complement to the t he warm baked filling. Streusel’s deliciousness needn’t be limited to ruit crisp and crumb cake, however. Because it’s so versatile, streusel—a German word meaning sprinkle—has become one o my baking staples. It’s the perect crunchy, buttery element to add to cookies, muffins, or even an ice cream sundae. Making streusel is easy. It’s just a matter o pouring melted butter into a flour and sugar mixture, then stirring briefly to moisten. You need only one bowl to make a batch, whether by hand or with a mixer. It’s also a great make-ahead item. I prepare big batches o streusel and always have bags o it in my reezer. reezer. Tat kind o time-saver is
cardamom, cocoa, and cacao nib; and coconut and macadamia. Tey all have a flour-and-oat base, but each one pops with its own distinctive flavor. Tey are all sweet, o course, but I balance that with a briny hit o salt or contrast. In a couple o recipes, I also call or the streusel to be baked so that it’s nice and crisp beore it’s incorporated with the rest o the ingredients. Te streusel variations are interchangeable among the recipes eatured eatured here, so eel ree to mix and match to enjoy your avorite flavors. It won’t take you long to realize streusel is more than just a crumb topping. Karen DeMasco is pastry chef at Hearth in New York City and is the author of Te Craf o Baking. Baking.
CHOOSE YOUR STREUSEL These recipes make big batches of streusel. If you don’t have a 6-quart or larger stand mixer, mixer, get out your biggest bowl and mix it by hand.
marcona almond streusel
cocoa cardamom streusel
coconut macadamia
Buttery Marcona almonds enhance this
This streusel offers a satisfying crunch
streusel
classic cinnamony streusel with a salty crunch. Makes about 11 cups of streusel
delivered from the cacao nibs while the cardamom offers a sweet, floral undertone. Makes about 8 cups
Coconut and macadamia nuts give this streusel a tropical flair.
1 lb. (2 cups) unsalted butter
1 lb. 6½ oz. (5 cups) all-p all-purpose urpose flour
16 oz. (2 cups) unsalted butter
2 cups salted Marcona almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped (see Note)
1 lb. 6 oz. (4¾ cups) all-p all-purpose urpose flour
1 cup cacao nibs
1 cup rolled oats
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 packed cup dark brown sugar
½ packed cup plus 2 Tbs. dark brown sugar
¾ cup granulate granulated d sugar
½ cup demerara sugar
½ cup plus 2 Tbs. demerara sugar
½ cup unsweeten unsweetened ed cocoa powder
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. kosher salt (see Note)
10 oz. (2¼ cups) all-p all-purpose urpose flour ¼ cup plus 2 Tbs. granulate granulated d sugar ¼ packed cup dark brown sugar ¼ cup demerara sugar
2 tsp. ground cardamom
1 cup unsweetened flaked coconut
1 Tbs. kosher salt
1 tsp. kosher salt
ment. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat; keep warm.
parchment. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat; keep warm. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
paddle attachment, combine the flour, almonds,
the paddle attachment, combine the flour, fl our,
oats, sugars, cinnamon, and salt. Mix on low
cacao nibs, sugars, cocoa, cardamom, and
salt. Mix on low speed until combined, about
the mixer running, slowly pour in the butter. Stop the mixer as soon as the butter b utter is incorporated,
but crumbly.
pour in the butter. Stop the mixer as soon as
Divide the streusel between the prepared
baking sheets, spreading it to cover each pan and breaking up any large clumps with your fingers.
baking sheets, spreading it to cover the entire pan and breaking up any large clumps
with your fingers. Refrigerate for at least
overnight. Use right away, or transfer to a zip-top
transfer to a zip-top bag and freeze airtight
Note: almonds.
8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter
1 cup salted toasted macadamia nuts, coarsely chopped
Line two large rimmed baking sheets with
Divide the streusel between the prepared
Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parch-
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
Makes about 6 cups
Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat; keep warm. Combine the flour, sugars, nuts, coconut, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on in the butter. Stop the mixer as soon as the streusel will appear moist but crumbly. Scrape the streusel onto the prepared baking sheet, spreading it to cover and breaking up any large clumps with your or overnight. Use right away, or transfer to a zip-top bag and freeze airtight for up to
88
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
cranberry cr anberry streusel muffins muffins Sweet, crumbly streusel balances bursts of tartness from the cranberries in these tender sour-cream muffins, muffins, shown here with Marcona Almond Streusel.
Position racks in the upper and lower
pressed, about 25 minutes, rotat-
Serves 18
thirds of the oven and heat to 350°F.
ing and swapping the pans halfway.
Coat two 12-cup muffin tins (preferably nonstick) with cooking spray,
Cool for 20 minutes in the tins on a wire rack, then loosen with an offset
including the tops of the pans. In a large bowl, whisk the sugars
spatula before transferring to
½ packed cup dark brown sugar cup grapesee grapeseed d or vegetabl e oil
with the oil. Add the egg and yolk,
1 large egg plus 1 large yolk, at room temperature
and whisk until combined. Whisk in
2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
Cooking spray
½ cup granulated sugar
1½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest ½ cup apple cider, at room temperature ½ cup sour cream, at room temperature
6 oz. (1¾ cups) fresh or frozen cranberries, coarsely chopped
2 ¾ cups chilled streusel of your choice (see facing page)
the zests. In a small bowl, whisk the cider, sour cream, and vanilla. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, oats, cinnamon, baking soda, car-
½ tsp. pure vanilla extract 6 ¾ oz. (1½ cups) all-purpose flour
and cider mixture to the egg mixture.
cup roll ed oats 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
Using a large flexible spatula, gently fold in the cranberries.
½ tsp. ground cardamom ½ tsp. kosher salt
are golden and the center of each muffin bounces back when lightly
damom, and salt. In three additions, alternately add the dry ingredients
¾ tsp. baking soda
Place each muffin tin on a rimmed baking sheet, and bake until the tops
Evenly divide the batter among 18 of the muffin cups, then evenly divide the streusel among the cups of batter.
a rack to cool completely.
pear and ginger crisp
raspberry jam bars
A liberal topping of streusel (shown here with Coconut Macadamia Streusel) makes the layer of fork-tender juicy-sweet pears a wonderful surprise. Top Top a serving with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, if you like, and you’ve got the perfect dessert for a brisk autumn evening. Serves 6
This lunchbox-friendly treat (shown here with Marcona Almond Streusel) is like a fruit crisp in bar-cookie form. Try Try it with other jam flavors, if you like. Serves 16
Cooking spray 6 ripe Bartlett or Bosc pears, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch dice
Cooking spray 6 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88) 1 cup raspberry jam or preserves
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to
¼ cup granulated sugar
350°F.. Line the bottom of an 8-inch square baking 350°F baki ng
1½ Tbs. grated fresh ginger
pan with parchment. Lightly coat the parchment and
the sides of the pan with cooking spray.
2 tsp. cornstarch or tapioca starch
2¾ cups chilled streusel of of your your choice (see p. 88)
Press 4 cups of the streusel into the baking pan. Spread the jam evenly over the streusel. Sprinkle the
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350°F. Lightly coat an 8x8-inch or other 6-cup
remaining streusel in an even layer on top. Bake, rotating the pan about halfway through, until
ovenproof baking dish with cooking spray. Line a large
fragrant and the top is golden brown, 35 to 40 min-
rimmed baking sheet with parchment.
utes. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack,
In a large mixing bowl, combine the pears, sugar, ginger, and cornstarch. Scrape the pear mixture into the baking dish, and top with the streusel. Bake on the prepared sheet until the streusel is golden brown and the juices have thickened, about 40 minutes. Let cool at least 10 minutes before serving.
then cut into 2-inch squares. Store in an airtight container for up to a week.
streusel coffee cake If you’re a fan of New York York-style -style crumb cake, you’re going to love this version, which is more streusel (shown here with Cocoa Cardamom
Position a rack in the center of the oven
the parchment and the side of the pan.
olive oil mixture into the eggs. Turn the
Streusel) than cake. cake. Too Too much of a good thing? Nah. It’s just right.
Evenly spread the streusel in the prepared pan. Transfer to the oven and bake
mixer to low and add the dry ingredients, stopping as soon as they are incorporated
Serves 8
for 10 minutes. Set aside.
and scraping the side of the bowl as nec-
2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter; more for the pan
over low heat and keep warm.
6 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88)
2 large eggs
third full of water and heat to just under a simmer.
barely cover the streusel. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through,
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the eggs, sugar, and zest. Place the bowl over the
until the cake is golden and bounces back
and heat to 350°F. Line an 8-inch round cake pan with parchment. Lightly butter
In a small saucepan, melt the butter
½ cup granulated sugar 2½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest cup oli ve oil
Fill a medium saucepan about one-
simmering water, and whisk until the sugar
With the mixer on medium, drizzle the
essary. Fold in the melted butter. Pour the batter over the streusel, spreading it to cover evenly. The batter will
to the touch in the center, 38 to 40 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire
dissolves, about 2 minutes. Fit the mixer with the whisk attachment, then whip the egg
rack for about 20 minutes. Run a knife
mixture on medium high until thick, pale yel-
a serving plate. Dust the cake with confec-
¾ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. kosher salt
low, and double in volume, about 3 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil, milk,
tioners’ sugar, if you like. Serve warm or at room temperature.
and lemon juice. In a separate small bowl,
2 Tbs. whole milk
1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice
4 oz. (1 cup plus 3 Tbs.) cake flour
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)
whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt.
around the edge, then invert the cake onto
FINECOOKING.COM
91
chocolate chip oatmeal streusel cookies Baked nuggets of oaty, nutty streusel (shown here with Marcona Almond Streusel) are right at home in this twist on a classic cookie. Makes 48 cookies
3 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88)
2 cups rolled oats
6 ¾ oz. (1½ cups) all-purpose flour 1½ tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
7 oz. (14 Tbs.) unsalted butter butter,, softened
1 packed cup dark brown sugar
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature
12 oz. (2 cups) bittersweet chocolate chips
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350°F. Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment. Gently spread the streusel on one of the baking sheets and bake, rotating the pan halfway through, until golden brown and fragrant, 12 to 15 minutes. Let the streusel cool to room temperature in the pan on a wire rack before using. (The cooled baked streusel can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days). Leave the oven at 350°F. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the oats, flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, sugars, and vanilla on medium me dium speed until smooth and creamy, about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until combined and scraping down the bowl before adding the next. Add the dry ingredients in three additions, beating between each addition and scraping down the bowl as needed. Using a wooden spoon or large flexible spatula, fold in the chocolate chips and a nd the streusel. Drop the dough by rounded tablespoons onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving 2 inches between each. Bake one sheet at a time for 12 to 14 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the cookies are cracked and golden brown around the edges. Transfer Tr ansfer the baking sheet to a wire rack, and let rest 10 minutes before removing the cookies to a cooling rack. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Shape and freeze for bake-to-order treats. Scoop tablespoonfuls of dough onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and place in the freezer. Once the dough balls are frozen, place them in a ziptop bag and store in the freezer. Place frozen dough on a parchment-lined baking sheet and let sit at room
temperature for 10 minutes before baking as directed.
92
Because the streusel recipes make more than you need for these desserts, you’re going to have leftover streusel. This is a good thing. Here are some ideas for enjoying it:
Sprinkle unbaked streusel on top of quickbread batter before baking.
Roll up unbaked streusel in your favorite sticky bun dough.
Use baked streusel in place of granola in a yogurt parfait for breakfast.
Garnish a frosted cake or cupcakes with baked streusel crumbs.
Crumble baked streusel over a dish of your favorite pudding.
Eat baked streusel as a snack.
vanilla ice cream streusel vanilla streusel sundaes with candied cherries Layers of streusel (shown here with Cocoa Cardamom Streusel) provide a surprising buttery crunch that contrasts with the cool, creamy scoops of ice cream and the luxurious l uxurious cherries. Imported Italian maraschino cherries are a splurge for this sundae, and they’re worth it. Makes 3 sundaes
2 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88)
1 pint vanilla ice cream
1 jar good-quality maraschino cherries, such as Luxardo Maraschino (see Sources, p. 100)
1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350°F.. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parch350°F ment. Spread the streusel on the baking sheet and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until the streusel is golden brown and fragrant. Let cool to room temperature. (Use right away, or store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.) To assemble the sundaes, sprinkle about ¼ cup streusel in the bottom of a sundae glass (or similar), then top with a scoop of ice cream, 1 Tbs. liquid from the jar of cherries, and two halved cherries. Repeat to make a second layer. Top the sundae with a dollop
of whipped cream, a sprinkle of streusel, and a cherry.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 93
B a g
This Easy One Pot Meal is All Natural and Extra Juicy
Parchment nt Roast Roasting ing Bags. with NEW If You Care Non Stick Parchme RECIPE
Juicy Roasted Chicken Thighs in a Bag Serves 4-6
Ingredients
Sustainable. FSC and Non-GMO. Non-GM O. Non-T Non-Toxic. oxic. Gluten and Allergen Free. Preparation Totally Chlorine Free. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Vegan. Vegetari egetarian. an. In a small bowl, mix together Maille Dijon Originale Mustard, white wine, lemon juice and zest, garlic, and thyme, then set aside. Renewable Resources. Place potatoes, leeks, and shallots in an If You Care Medium All Natural. Non Stick Parchment Roasting Bag, seam side up on a rimmed
mustard mixture on top of the chicken and vegetables and fold the open end of the bag tightly towards the top as many times as possible to seal. Roast in the oven for 35 minutes, then remove and open the bag by either ripping ripping or cutting with scissors scissors to expose expose the top of the chicken. Baste chicken with butter, then place back in oven to baking sheet or roasting pan. Then season the chicken with roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until desired brownness, the garlic powder, salt and pepper and place inside the bag on top of the vegetables. Place the lemon slices in the bag and pour
then serve and enjoy!
94
TE ST KI TCHEN Tips/Techniques/Equipment/Ingredients/Glossary
TECHNIQUE
K S T H A N G G I V I N
g C o o k i n A L S P EC I
Tableside carving done right If you plan to carve your turkey whole at the table and want tender, juicy slices of breast meat, be sure to slice against the grain. Here’’s how: Begin Here B egin by making a cut to sepasep arate the leg from the breast. Ten run the knife along the breast bone to separate the meat from the bone. Finally, slice the breast vertically with the tip of your knife pointing toward the breast bone.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 95
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Diana Andrews
TEST KITCHEN
TECHNIQUE
TOOL
Turkey roasting roasting tips Follow these tips or juicy, tender turkey. Fresh or frozen: A resh turkey will yield a moister, juicier roast bird, but i you buy rozen, allow one day or every 5 lb. to ully derost in the rerigerator beore roasting. Let it dry: o promote the development o crisp skin during roasting, afer derosting (i rozen) and brining (i you choose), pat the turkey dry with paper towels, and rerigerate, uncovered on a rimmed baking sheet, or 4 to 12 hours beore roasting. Oven temperature: While some cooks like to blast the turkey with high heat (425°F) or 30 minutes and then reduce the temperature, a low, steady temperature o 350°F rom start to finish is more careree. Te high-heat method may shave 30 to 90 minutes off the cooking time, but re-
salt (unless you’ve already brined it) to help crisp the skin. To stuff or not to stuff: Far be it rom us to mess with amily tradition, but stuffing the turkey means it takes longer to roast, and there’s there’s a greater risk that it will cook unevenl u nevenly. y. We We preer to bake stuffi s tuffing separately in a baking dish, which also gives the stuffing a nice ni ce crisp top. I you choose to stuff the bird, do it loosely to give the stuffing room to expand, exp and, and take ta ke the temtem perature o the t he stuffi ng as well as a s the bird to determine i it is done roasting (170°F in the thigh and 165°F in the center o the stuffi st uffing ng). ). Avoid scorching: I the bird is browning quickly but not near its target doneness temperature o 170°F, tent it loosely with
membering to lower the temperature is one more thing to worry about on a busy day. Browning: Rub the turkey all over with olive oil or melted clarified butter; this helps the turkey to brown evenly. (You can also use melted whole butter, but the milk solids might make the turkey a little spotted.) Sprinkle the turkey with kosher
oil and continue roasting. I the drippings seem to be getting too dark, add a couple o tablespoons o water to the pan to keep them rom burning. Let it rest: Te intense heat o the oven orces the juices into the center o the bird, so afer roasting, let the turkey rest or roughly 20 minutes. Te juices will redistribute, and you’ll get moister slices.
IS YOUR BIRD BIG ENOUGH? TURKEY WEIGHT WEIGHT
AVERAGE AVERA GE SERVINGS SERVINGS
Keep the flavor, lose the fat One way to separate liquid at rom pan drippings is to let the liquid cool completely, then lif off the hardened at on top. I you use a at separator, which is basically a measuring cup with the spout attached to the bottom o the cup, there’s no need to wait. Pour all o the liquid into the separator, and the at, which is lighter and less dense than the juices, naturally floats to the top. Tis allows you to pour off the juices, which are are heavier heavier and settle settle to the bottom o the cup. Use both to make your gravy, i you like.
TIP
AMPLE SERVINGS with SERVINGS with leftovers
12 lb.
12
8
14 lb.
14
9
16 lb.
16
10
18 lb.
20
12
Hold the twine Don’t truss your bird. It will take longer to cook and will cook more unevenly. If you feel you must truss,
20 lb.
22
14
96
leave the bindings loose.
Food styling by Diana Andrews; bottom left by Ronne Day. Illustration by Janet Stein.
TIP
Gravy Everyone lovesmath gravy, so make sure you have plenty. The chart below shows how to scale your favorite recipe so that you have enough eno ugh for about cup gravy per person. As a general rule, use about 1 Tbs. of fat (such as butter or turkey fat from the roasting pan) and about 1½ Tbs. of flour to make the roux to thicken each cup of liquid (the combined volume of liquids you use to make your gravy: stock, broth, wine, water, and so on).
TECHNIQUE
Just a bite
For 6 servings
For 10 servings
3 Tbs. flour
5 Tbs. flour
2 Tbs. fat 2 cups liquid
3 Tbs. fat 3 cups c ups liq liquid uid
For 8 servings
For 12 servings
4 Tbs. flour 2½ Tbs. fat 2 cups c ups liq liquid uid
6 Tbs. flour 4 Tbs. fat 4 cups liquid
Want a taste of every dessert? Mini tarts let you do just that. Experiment by miniaturizing your favorite pumpkin or pecan pie. The tart tamper shown above makes quick work of lining a muffin tin with tart dough. Then fill, and bake, adjusting baking time as necessary.
INGREDIENT
Dry, not stale, bread for stuffing Most stuffing recipes call for day-old bread. What you really want is for the bread to be a bit drier. This is easily achieved by lightly toasting fresh bread cubes, which will also add flavor to the stuffing.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 97
TEST KITCHEN
Te Poetry of Sea Salt Fleur de Sel is an incredibly rare and delicate sea salt crystal with the complexity of a snowflake and nuanced whisper of the sea. Under perfect conditions it “blooms” on the sea surface in a few areas of the world, most notably, Camargue, and is quickly harvested before it disappears in a breeze. Te moist crystals have a subtle but profou profound nd impact on taste buds; they are sprinkled on food just before eating to elevate elevate a dish from a meal to a culinary experience. Le Saunier de Camargue salt artisans are renowned for managi managing ng our centuries-ol centuries-old d salt beds and harvesting the delicate crystals by hand following time-pr time-proven oven ancient tradit traditions. ions. TIP
Make-ahead fruit pie You may already know that you you can freeze pie dough, but how about freezing the whole unbaked pie? A fruit pie can be fully assembled and frozen for up to a month. After assembling, put the entire pie (pie pan and all) into a loose-fitting plastic bag, tightly seal, and freeze. Allow it to thaw in the refrigerator a day before you plan to bake it as directed.
98
Food styling by Diana Andrews
Stress-free gravy Delicious gravy is the unifying factor in the traditional Tanksgiving meal. It’s so important that leaving it to the last moment—so that you can incorporate the pan drippings from the bird—can be unnerving. Tat’s Tat’s why we love a make-ahead gravy, which is also good goo d if you are roasting a kosher or brined bird, as either may yield pan drippings too salty to use. Te gravy below can be held for up to three days in the refrigerator and is delicious as is, but you can certainly add some pan juices to it. RECIPE
make-ahead mushroom gravy The woodsy flavor of porcini mushrooms makes this gravy something special. Serves 12 ½ oz. (½ cup) dried porcini mushrooms
1 qt. turkey or chicken broth (see web link below)
2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
6 Tbs. all-purpose flour
2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme
1½ tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
1
2
Add the flour to the hot butter and cook, stirring to combine.
Whisk in a portion of the stock or broth while stirring vigorously to prevent lumps.
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Soak the porcini in 1 cup of very hot water until soft, 10 to 15 1 5 minutes. Remove the porcini and slowly pour the soaking liquid into the turkey broth, leaving any sediment from the mushrooms behind; you should have about 4 cups combined liquid. Finely chop the porcini. Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan 1 and use a flat whisk or wooden spoon to combine it with the butter. Cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Slowly Slow ly pour ½ cup
2
of the broth into the pan
while whisking vigorously to disperse the flour. The liquid should thicken quickly. quickly. As soon as it thickens, whisk in another anothe r ½ cup broth. Repeat until the gravy starts to look more like a smooth sauce; then whisk in the remaining broth 3 and bring to a simmer. Add the thyme and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the thyme, and stir in the chopped porcini 4 and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice.
3
4
Pour in the remaining stock or broth while continuing to whisk.
Stir in the chopped mushrooms, and season to taste.
Find a recipe for Quick Turkey Giblet Broth and other Thanksgiving tips and recipes at FineCooking.com/Thanksgiving.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 99
SOURCES
Vegetarian Holiday, p. 56
Yellow-eyed Yellow-e yed beans, $6 for a 1-lb. bag;
barryfarm.com; 419-741-0155.
Cranberry beans and other assorted heirloom varieties, from $4.69 for a 1-lb.
11-oz. bag; bobsredmill.com; 800-3492173; or a well-stocked supermarket.
Make It Tonight, p. 39
Linked mini loaf pans, $21.99 for
an 8-loaf pan; chicagometallicbakeware .com.
Sumac, $14.95 for a 4-oz. jar; usimply
Get Rolling, p. 80
season.com; 888-243-7770 888-243-7770..
Medjool dates, Natural Delights Medjool
dates, from $17.99 for three 1-lb. containers; naturaldelights.com; Terrasoul Superfoods Organic Medjool dates, $17.99 for a 2-lb. bag, amazon.com; Sunbest Medjool dates, $11.49 for a 1-lb. bag, amazon.com.
Pierced white charger charger,, $7 each or
$28 for a set of 4; D.K. Shulman Design; 800-868-4300; dkschulman design.com
Test Kitchen, p. 95
surlatable.com, 800-243-0852 800-243-0852..
Streusel Desserts, p. 86
Tart tamper, $6,
Cacao nibs, $7.99 for a 6-oz. pouch;
scharffenberger.com; 855-972-0511; scharffenberger.com; or amazon.com.
Fennel, p. 64 Enamel dinner plates, Crow Canyon
Home, 10-inch diameter, $7.99 each; New Preston Kitchen Goods; 860-868-1264 860-868-1264..
Luxardo cherries, $19.99 for a 14-oz. jar;
williams-sonoma.com; 877-812-6235; or a well-stocked supermarket.
Pork Chops, Cho ps, p. 70
Demi-glace, $6.95 for a 1.5-oz. container;
olivenation.com; 617-580-3667; or a wellolivenation.com; stocked supermarket.
Marcona almonds, $17.99 for a 1-lb. bag;
nuts.com; 800-558-6887; 800-558-6887; or a wellstocked supermarket.
Three Ways With..., p. 34
.com, 860-361-9306.
Long cake platter, platter, Astier de Villatte,
Medium slip bowl, $35; bantamtilewo bantamtileworks rks
Sperlari Mostarda,
$14.54 for a 19.7-oz. jar; amazon.com.
$140, John Derian & Co., johnderian .com, 212-677-3917.
100
Photographs by Scott Phillips
NUTRITION Recipe
Calories Fat Cal (kcal) (kcal)
Total Fat (g)
Sat Fat Poly Fat Mono (g) (g) Fat (g)
Chol (mg)
Sodium (mg)
Carb (g)
Fiber (g)
Sugar (g)
Protein (g)
9
145
1190
50
5
10
41
LEFTOVER TURKEY, P. 34 Turkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells
660
300
33
15
5
Turkey, Escarole, and White Bean Soup wCroutons
980
270
30
13
3.5
11
125
1370
107
11
4
64
Turkey and Spinach Hand Pies
1310
830
93
18
46
24
115
1010
81
5
2
38
Sausages with Red Cabbage and Apples
580
420
47
17
4
23
95
1030
29
3
19
13
Pork, Lemongrass, and Noodle Stir-fry
350
150
17
5
4
6
50
830
32
1
4
17
Shaved Cucumber Salad
30
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
6
1
5
1
Pearl Couscous with Orange, Cranberries, and Almonds
210
70
8
2
1
4.5
5
65
30
3
6
6
French Potato Salad with White Wine and Tarragon
190
90
10
1.5
1
7
0
510
20
2
1
3
Mini Meatloaves Wrapped in Bacon
340
180
20
7
1.5
8
130
650
12
1
4
29
Chicken and Corn Chowder
550
330
37
22
2.5
10
130
410
37
4
7
23
Sweet and Spicy Tuna Tartines
520
250
27
4.5
13
5
40
2100
40
5
6
31
620
310
34
18
2
11
120
960
53
8
10
28
Heirloom Bean and Potato Cassoulet
630
260
29
6
3
19
10
470
78
20
6
19
Potato and Leek Galette with Rosemary and Sea-Salt Crust
400
230
26
14
1.5
8
80
580
34
2
3
8
Mussels with Fennel and Fregola
500
280
32
10
3
17
50
730
33
4
7
16
Pasta with Roasted Fennel and Tomatoes
470
170
19
7
2
8
35
1030
57
8
9
19
Fennel “Confit” with Grilled Lamb
390
250
29
9
2.5
16
85
260
8
3
3
28
Shaved Fennel Salad wOranges, Black Olives, and Pistachios
240
140
16
2
2.5
11
0
410
22
6
13
4
Roast Pork Chops with Baby Artichokes and New Potatoes
780
390
44
15
4
21
165
540
36
5
5
62
Pork Chops Milanese
930
610
69
13
8
45
240
510
29
1
15
46
Seared Pork Chops with Watercress Mashed Potatoes
870
440
49
19
4
21
165
1520
43
4
2
54
Beer-Brined Pork Chops with Wild Mushroom Stuffing
840
530
59
21
5
29
160
760
25
3
5
49
Pogaca Rolls
160
70
8
1
2
4.5
25
150
19
1
1
4
Thanksgiving-Style Sausage Pogaca Feta and Fresh Parsley Pogaca
210 210
100 100
12 11
2.5 3
2.5 2.5
6 5
30 35
280 270
21 20
1 1
2 2
6 6
Spiced Date Butter Pogaca
270
130
14
4.5
2.5
6
40
150
33
2
13
5
Caramelized Apple and Golden Raisin Pogaca
230
70
8
1
2
4.5
25
150
37
1
18
4
Marcona Almond Streusel (per 2 Tbs.)
50
25
3
1.5
0
1
5
15
6
0
3
1
Cocoa Cardamom Streusel (per 2 Tbs.)
60
35
3.5
2.5
0
1
10
25
7
1
3
1
Coconut Macadamia Streusel (per 2 Tbs.)
50
30
3.5
2
0
1.5
5
20
4
0
2
0
MAKE IT TONIGHT, P. 39
VEGETARIAN HOLIDAY, P. 56 Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard Lasagne
FENNEL, P. 64
PORK CHOPS, P. 70
POGACA ROLLS, P. 80
STREUSEL, P. 86
Cranberry Streusel Muffins
290
120
13
4.5
4
4
35
130
39
2
20
4
Pear and Ginger Crisp
510
200
22
10
2.5
8
40
115
77
7
43
6
Raspberry Jam Bars
380
160
18
8
2
7
35
90
51
2
29
5
Streusel Coffee Cake
910
470
53
22
5
23
130
320
100
4
47
13
Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Streusel Cookies
190
80
9
5
0.5
3
25
95
25
1
14
2
Vanilla Ice Cream Streusel Sundaes wCandied Cherries
1240
760
85
48
6
26
310
280
104
4
38
18
60
40
4. 5
2.5
0
1.5
10
150
4
0
0
1
TEST KITCHEN, P. 95 Make-Ahead Mushroom Gravy The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian
dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without with out
is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper aren’t specified, the
at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre-
specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or por tion
analysis is based on ¼ tsp. salt and tsp. pepper per serving for entrées, and tsp. s alt and tsp. pepper per se rving for side dishes.
F I N E C O O K I N G . C O M 101
RECIPE INDEX
Cover Roast Pork Chops with Baby Artichokes and New Potatoes ....... 73
Mini Meatloaves Wrapped
Shaved Cucumber Salad ................. 41
in Bacon .................................................42 Pasta with Roasted Fennel and
Shaved Fennel Salad with Oranges, Black Olives, and Pist achios .......... 69
Tomatoes To matoes ...................................... ....... 66
Salads, Soups & Breads
Pork Chops Milanese ........................
Caramelized Apple and Golden
Stir-fry ................................................... 40
Raisin Pogaca ....................................... 85
74
Pork, Lemongrass, and Noodle
Roast Pork Chops with Baby
Desserts Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Streusel Cookies ................................92 Cocoa Cardamom Streusel .......... 88
Chicken and Corn Chowder .......... 46
Artichokes and New Potatoes ....... 73
Coconut Macadamia Streusel...... 88
Feta and Fresh Parsley Pogaca...... Pogaca...... 85
Sausages with Red Cabbage
Cranberry Streusel Muffins ............89
French Potato Salad with White Wine and Tarr Tarragon agon ............................. 41 Pogaca Rolls ......................................... 82 Shaved Cucumber Salad ................. 41 Shaved Fennel Salad with Oranges, Black Olives, and Pis tachios .......... 69 Spiced Date Butter Pogaca ............ 85 Thanksgiving-Style Sausage Pogaca ................................................... 85 Turkey, Tur key, Escarole, and White Bean Soup with Cheesy Croutons .......... 36
and Apples ........................................... 40 Seared Pork Chops with Watercress Mashed Potatoes ....... 76
Pasta Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard Lasagne ................................................. 59 Mussels with Fennel and Fregola .. 65 Pasta with Roasted Fennel and Tomatoes To matoes ...................................... ....... 66
Marcona Almond Streusel ............. 88 Pear and Ginger Crisp ...................... 90 Raspberry Jam Bars ......................... 90 Streusel Coffee Cake ........................ 91 Vanilla Ice Cream Streusel Sundaes with Candied Cherries ... 93
Extras Make-Ahead Mushroom Gravy .... 99
Pearl Couscous with Orange, Cranberries, and Almonds .............. 41 Pork, Lemongrass, and Noodle
Seafood
Stir-fry ................................................... 40
Mussels with Fennel and Fregola .. 65
Turkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells .. 34
Sweet and Spicy Tuna Tartines Tartines .... 48
Turkey, Turk ey, Escarole, and White Bean
VEGETARIAN: May contain
Soup with Cheesy Croutons .......... 36
Poultry Chicken and Corn Chowder .......... 46
Meatless Mains Butternut Squash and Swiss
Turkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells ..34
Chard Lasagne .................................... 59
Turkey Tur key and Spinach Hand Pies Pies....... ....... 36
Potato and Leek Galette with
Turkey, Tur key, Escarole, and White Bean Soup with Cheesy Croutons .......... 36
eggs and dairy ingredients MAKE AHEAD: AHEAD: Can
be completely prepared ahead (may baking, need handsoff cooking, or reheating to serve) QUICK: Under 30 minutes QUICK:
Rosemary and Sea-Salt Crust ....... 63 Heirloom Bean and Potato Cassoulet ............................................. 60
Beef, Pork & Lamb Beer-Brined Pork Chops with Wild Mushroom Stuffing .................. 77 Fennel “Confit” with Grilled Lamb .. 67
Side Dishes French Potato Salad with White Wine and Tarragon ............................. 41 Pearl Couscous with Orange, Cranberries, and Almonds .............. 41
What to drink
with what’s in this issue Select recipes in this issue include pairings by our drinks editor, Jill Silverman Hough.
102
W E L C O M E TO T O T H E T E A H O U S E. PREMIUM ORGANIC TEA. EXQUISITE INGREDIENTS. EXTRAORDINARY TASTE.
Also available in these flavors: Fuji Apple & Ginger
Valencia Orange Peel
Wild Blackberry & Sage
®2017 ®201 7 PURE LEAF and TEA HOUSE COLLECTION are trademarks of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.
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