01 EXPRESS Apparel Performance Standards Guidance Manual- REV 2-6Jan 201....pdf

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

 

Fabric & Garment Performance Standard Manual

 

 

Testing is required by EXPRESS to ensure all products meet or exceed our performance standards in finished products. Suppliers are accountable for meeting all requirements in all products sold and shipped to EXPRESS. 

January, 2017

EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 1 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

TABLE OF CONTENTS Bulk Fabric Quality Submission Process- General Guidelines…………….………………….… pg 3 Garment Testing Process-General Guidelines….………………………………………………………….. pg 4 Test Request Form- Intertek…………………………………………………………………………………….…….. pg 5 Test Request Form- Bureau Veritas………………………………………………………………….……………. pg 6 Test Request Form- TUV…………………………………………………………………………………………………….pg 7 Revision History……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..……pg 8

SPECIAL CASE PERFORMANCE STANDARDS Fabric or Garment Express Care Verification Only ECV-0001………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 11 Small Orders ESO-0002………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 12

FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS Woven Fabric Non-pile, excluding >5% Wool EWF-1000………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 14 Woven Fabric Pile, excluding >5% Wool EWF-1001………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 17 Woven Fabric-Wool and >5% Wool Blends EWF-1002………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 21 Woven Fabric-Rigid Denim EWF-1003…..…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 24 Woven Fabric Linings EWF-1004..……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 27 Leather & Suede EWF-1005………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 29 Knit Fabrics EKF-2000………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 31 Knit Fabric- Sweater Knitting Yarn EKF-2001………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 34 Knit Fabric - Santoni EKF-2002….………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….pg 36

GARMENT PERFORMANCE STANDARDS Woven Garment EGP-6000………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 38 Denim Garment EGP-6001………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 42 Knit Garment EGP-6002………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 46 Knit Garment-Sweaters EGP-6003…..…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 49 Bras EGP-6004..……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 52 Panties, Boxers, and Underpants (Knit/Woven, Men’s & Women’s) EGP-6005………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………pg 55

EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 2 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

EXPRESS Bulk Fabric Quality General Processes Fabric Standards: If the fabric standard was set up with the Express NY R&D team through another vendor or directly with the mill, you will need to request reference of the approved fabric standard from the Express Textile Technologist. Bulk Fabric Quality: Bulk fabric must have fabric quality approval from Express or an Express Calibrated Vendor Partner following initial bulk fabric production before shipping from the mill.  Bulk fabric quality testing must be completed with a 3rd party testing lab or an Express accredited testing lab o Express Test Request Form (TRF) must be submitted to 3rd party testing labs to ensure all performance requirements have been met o Express accredited labs must utilize a 3rd party lab for all regulatory testing (i.e. Flammability, fiber content etc.)  For ongoing or core programs, a new full package bulk fabric quality submit is required for review by Express or an Express Calibrated Vendor Partner every 6 months o Bulk fabric quality test reports are only valid for 6 months  If multiple color ways are being produced simultaneously, the darkest color must be submitted to the lab for “Full Package testing”. Additional colors must be submitted to the labs as “Additional Color way testing”.  Trim Testing: Follow Express Trim Performance Standard. Testing required annually on metal trims; every 6 months for all other trims. Trim testing should follow above guidelines. Bulk Fabric Quality Submission Requirements:  The vendor must initiate an email to the Textile Technologist to alert him/her of the bulk fabric quality submit: o Attach Fabric Adoption Sheet (FAS) & bulk fabric test report in the email o Advise delivery details & deadline for approval o Highlight bulk fabric testing failures or any variance from the fabric standard and advise action plan to correct o Provide airway bill number for the physical submit package (AWB#)  The physical bulk fabric quality submit to the Textile Technologist must include: o Copy of the initiation email o Copy of the Fabric Adoption Sheet (FAS) o Copy of the Bulk Fabric Test Report o Bulk Fabric Quality Submit Form completely filled out  Attach the bulk fabric quality cutting 17” X 22” to the submit form  Attach a punch of the fabric weighed in G/M2 Trim Testing: Required annually on metal trims; every 6 months for all other trims. Trim testing should follow bulk fabric quality guidelines. Re-Test: It is the vendor’s responsibility to submit a re-test request for bulk fabric quality testing failures  Re-Test must be conducted by the same lab that performed the original test  The fabric submitted for a retest must reference the failed report number on the test request form. Additional Color way:  Additional color ways can be submitted separately or with the full package test. If they are submitted separately, the full package test report number needs to be reference on the TRF.  Additional color way test reports do not need to be submitted to Express for approval unless there are failures Prints: A separate full package bulk fabric test report is required for solid and print version of a fabric quality Liability: To re-validate LIABILITY yardage, new full fabric package testing is required to be submitted to Express or an Express Calibrated Vendor Partner NFG Orders (Non Finished Goods): If an NFG order is placed directly with the mill and a vendor has not been allocated, the mill should submit a bulk fabric quality submit directly to the Express Textile Technologist.  Upon receipt of the order, the vendor should request a copy of the Textile Technologist’s bulk fabric quality approval from the mill for their records Fabric Qualities used by multiple Vendors from the same mill: Once initial bulk fabric quality approval has been given by Express or an Express Calibrated Vendor Partner on a given fabric any vendor may precede with an order based on this approval.  Each vendor must obtain a copy of the approval for their records  As this is your order you are still responsible for the fabric quality, and it is highly suggested that you double check the physical bulk fabric against the standard to ensure hand feel, appearance, and weight are consistent to the standard and the bulk fabric tested approval.  If the fabric is still being used after the 6 month expiration mark then it is the vendor with the current order responsibility to resubmit full bulk fabric quality testing and confirm the approval o Any bulk fabric testing failures that cannot be improved must be confirmed with Express Test Orders: Full Bulk Fabric Quality testing is not required for orders under 1000 units, 300 for Outerwear  For any bulk order following a test order, the vendor must request full fabric testing

EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 3 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

EXPRESS Garment Quality Procedures Bulk Testing Full package testing must be conducted at initial bulk production and at any change of supplier  All testing reports expire at 6 months (6 months must be within GAC date). Please be sure to check the report is valid before your garments ship from the factory.  All garments must have testing conducted per the performance requirements and approved by an Express Textile Technologist or Calibrated vendor on EVERY STYLE before shipping EXPRESS Test Request Form (TRF) must be submitted with samples for full package testing, (Note: Individual test item selections are permitted as needed, but individual testing may not be submitted in lieu of full EXPRESS testing package.) A production garment for testing must be in the exact fabric, trims, construction, workmanship and finish (i.e. garment wash); manufactured by the factory that will be producing the bulk production  Garment testing must be submitted in a timely manner in order to allow sufficient time to correct any problems that may arise during the testing procedures The cost of testing and re-tests are at the responsibility of the supplier  All Testing should be done at an accredited ASTM or AATCC testing labs  If testing through an Express accredited lab, 3rd party testing for content and flammability must be conducted at an ASTM or AATCC accredited testing lab Related Styles Related styles with slight alterations (i.e. same style with multiple sleeve length (long/ ¾ lengths) or multiple inseam sizes (crop/ full length) may be tested together, but all style numbers must be listed on the TRF. Re-Tests If submitting a re-test request for a failing test report, re-test must be conducted by the same testing lab that performed the original test. The garment submitted for a retest must reference the failed report number on the test request form. Additional Color way If several colors are being bulk produced simultaneously, test and submit in the darkest color. a. The physical bulk fabric submit must be the same color as the corresponding fabric test report in the submit package Additional color ways can be submitted separately or with the full package test. If they are submitted separately, the full package test report number needs to be reference on the TRF. Test Orders Performance Standard ESO-0002  Follow for General Apparel orders under 999 units  Follow for Outerwear orders under 299 units  Follow for Men’s suiting orders under 499 units Failing Test Reports Failing garment test reports must be sent to the EXPRESS Textile Technologist for review if they cannot be improved, including test orders following ESO-0002.  Exception: submissions managed by a calibrated agent of Express  Please work to improve the failure before asking Express to accept a failing test result. The subject line of the email containing the garment test report must list the following: Express style #, GMT test report, factory x date and status of the report  Example: 75F1234 – Gmt test report- HKGT00012345, 9/25x Fail  Any failures in the test report must be listed in the body of the email with corrective action plan or explanation of waiver request General Certificate of Conformity (GCOC) Once testing has been approved a GCOC needs to be filled out for each style for flammability. All color ways must be included.

EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 4 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 5 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 6 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 7 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

Revision History Issue No. Issue 2.3

Revision Date 8/31-2015 8/28/2015 8/28/2015 8/28/2015

8/14/2015

Issue 2.3

8/5/2015

Issue 2.3

7/15/2015

EXPRESS

Changes EGP 6003 Added by request to ASTM D2594 EGP 6003 Dimensional Stability and Appearance after laundering/Dry Clean are N/A to additional colorway Zipper Strength removed from all Garment Protocols Added comment ‘If garment is lined, lining must be tested as per below. Lining tests will be charged as applicable separate from base package’ back to all garment protocols. Add perspiration AATCC 15 to EGP 6003 Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A on EGP 6003 was updated to N/A, removed burn out style only in special instruction. Denim EGP6001 tear strength ASTM D1424 corrected wet process and resin treated to match EWF 1003 Denim EGP 6001 fix special instruction to reference woven garment protocol EGP 6000 instead of EWF 1003 Remove 30 min pilling requirement from rigid denim EWF 1003 EWF 1004 added special instruction for visual appearance EWF 1005 added flammability back All protocols accept EWF 1003 added crocking statement back ‘if failed per care instruction 1 cycle retest and report after wash as data’. EKF2000 added dye transfer in storage back AATCC 163, determination of dry time AATCC 199 was in twice, removed repeat line EWF 1000 and EWF 1002 abrasion was changed back to D3885 instead of D4966 pH added EWF 1003 added back EWF 1000 added back below items Abrasion, bonded D 3135, wrinkle free, water vapour E96, Drying Time AATCC 199, Anti bacterial, snagging, water resistance. EWF 1003 added flammability back Protocol numbers were changed; check table of content Department 90 added for performance wear pH EGP 6001 added 3D whisker description, added special comment EGP 6001 and EWF 1003 comment added ‘ refer to EGP 6000 for fabrics less than 8oz/yd2 EGP 6003 updated dimensional stability requirement for 3x wash to -5%-+1% EGP 6003 included special instruction under skew to report both percent and actual inches EGP 6003 added comment in direction of stretch only Added valid up to GAC date to introduction EXP 32 removed Phthalate limit updated to max 1000ppm EWF 1002 wovens, wool lightfastness changed to 3.0 EWF 1003 Rigid denim and EGP 6001 is the same as EWF 1003 rigid denim

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Prepared by S. Monastra

Approved by L. Messmore

S. Monastra

L. Messmore

S. Monastra

L. Messmore

S. Monastra

L. Messmore

Page 8 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

Issue 2.4

12/29/2015

2/29/2016

3/25/2016

3/25/2016

2.5

3/25/2016 4/15/2016

2.6

1/1/2017 1/1/2017 1/1/2017

1/1/2017

1/1/2017 1/1/2017

EXPRESS

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD Removed 30 sec from all stretch and recovery requirements AATCC 143 visual appearance added special instruction ‘applicable to foiling, pleating, and special finishes.’ EGP 6001 heat aging comment removed report ad data only. AATCC 143 added whiskers and removed wrinkle free. pH updated to whites / colors 5.0-8.0; performance Wear 4.0 – 7.5) Scope of EGP 6001 changed to denim Added special instruction for Burnt Gas AATCC 23 Applicable to 50% or more white color block or prints. Added Comment to Dimensional Stability select test should include weight (+/- 5% per claim) to all protocol accept EWF 1005 Change AATCC 61 to AATCC 61 2A on all fabric protocols with comment Follow 1A with EXP approval. Conduct 1A condition if 2A fails. Report 2A as failure and 1A as data Dye Transfer in storage AATCC 163 on EKF 2000 additional color changed from N/A to X. Added comment in guidance document on small footwear order. Added fabric standard statement to guidance: Fabric Standards: If the fabric standard was set up with the Express NY R&D team through another vendor or directly with the mill, you will need request reference of the approved fabric standard from the Express Textile Technologist. Fiber Content updated to remove additional colorway requirement. Added statement ‘Burnout required on additional colorway’ in special comments. Updated comment on dimensional stability select test to remove value of requirement and added ‘requirement as per corresponding fabric protocol’. Version # updated to 2.5 Updated pilling on sweater and denim protocol to add 30 min test item, requirement 4.0. Denim will report 30 min as data. Updated EWF 1002 tensile strength to match EGP 6000 tensile strength Updated Express Bulk fabric quality general process to include metal trim report ‘valid for up to 1 year.’ Updated EKF 2000 stretch and recovery requirements to include both growth and recovery. The requirement is now applicable to all knits, not just intimates. ESO-0002 updated units to General ApparelOrders fewer than 999 Units; OuterwearOrders fewer than 299 Units; Men’s Suiting Pieces-Orders fewer than 499 Units and page 4 in intro EWF-1000, EWF 1001, EGP-6004, EGP 6002, EKF 2000, EGP 6000 updated wicking claim to include original and 5x wash or as specified EKF 2002, EGP 6002 added gsm conversation to burst requirement

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



S. Monastra

L. Messmore

S. Monastra

L. Messmore

S. Monastra

L. Messmore

S.Monastra

L.Messmore

S.Monastra S. Monastra

L.Messmore L. Messmore

S. Monastra

L. Messmore

s. Monastra

L. Messmore

S. Monastra

G. Scorah

S. Monastra

L. Messmore

S.Monastra

L. Messmore

S.Monastra

L. Messmore Page 9 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017 1/17/2017

1/25/2017

1/1/72017

1/25/2017

1/25/2017

EXPRESS

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD Added special instruction to denim garment protocol EGP 6001: Any denim fabric under 8 oz/yd2 should be tested in EWF 1000. Removed any requirement below 8 ounces. EGP 6004, EGP 6005 added CF to light, CF to Chlorine Bleach & Non Chlorine Bleach. Added comment to CF tests: Required for Garment Dye Reference previous fabric report where possible for same fabric reference number. Conduct if no fabric testing available EGP 6002 EGP 6000 added CF to laundering, CF to perspiration, CF to water, CF to Bleach and Non Chlorine Bleach, CF to Light applicable to garment dye only. Added Comment to CF tests: Required for Garment Dye Reference previous fabric report where possible for same fabric reference number. Conduct if no fabric testing available EGP 6003 added comment to CF testing Required for Garment Dye Reference previous fabric report where possible for same fabric reference number. Conduct if no fabric testing available Added to all protocols appearance after wash (garment) AATCC/TS-008 & (fabric)AATCC 143 ‘report with and without UV suppressor. Pass/fail based on lowest result.

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



S.Monastra

L. Messmore

S.Monastra

L. Messmore

S.Monastra

L. Messmore

S.Monastra

L. Messmore

S.Monastra

L. Messmore

Page 10 

Rev. 2.6– January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

 

FABRIC OR GARMENT PERFORMANCE STANDARD: ECV-0001 SAMPLE: FABRIC OR GARMENT

|

SCOPE: Express care verification only

Note: *indicates additional charge item as applicable or requested

Test Package Full

Test Name

Add. Color

Performance Requirements

Test Method

Special Instructions

CONSTRUCTION X

N/A

Weight

ASTM D 3776

Report as Data

Report in GSM and Oz/Yd2

Labeling

X

X

N/A

*Fiber Content

AATCC 20/20A

For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/0% tolerance

N/A

*All New Material Label for Filled, quilted, padded or stuffed items only

Provincial Regulations of Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec for Stuffed & Upholstered Goods

Label verification per regulation

AATCC/ASTM TS001

4.0 (indicating proper bleaching instruction)

COLORFASTNESS TESTING Chlorine & X N/A Non-Chlorine Bleach PERFORMANCE TESTING Dimensional Stability to X N/A Washing, 3 washes *To DryX N/A cleaning, 1 cycle

AATCC 135

Woven

-3 to +1%

Knit

-5 to +1%

-2 to +1%

AATCC 158

Color Change Self-Stain Color Stain

X

N/A

Appearance After Laundering/ Dry-Cleaning

Skewing

4.0 4.5 3.5 Woven 3% Knit 5%

AATCC/TS-008 Appearance must be satisfactory, no visual defect or distortion, no detachment or breakage of decorative embellishments

Reference previous fabric report where possible for same fabric reference number. Additional colorway required for burnout. Check for presence of all new material label containing registration number; Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined, chemical analysis is required

3 home launderings or 1 Dry-cleaning Test as per submitted Express Care Code Report skewing in percentage and actual inches Dimensional Stability select test should include weight (as per corresponding fabric protocol) Report with and without UV suppressor. Pass/fail based on lowest result.

  EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 11 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

GARMENT PERFORMANCE STANDARD: ESO – 0002 SAMPLE: GARMENTS

|

SCOPE: SMALL ORDERS (No Bulk Fabric Test Required) General Apparel- Orders fewer than 999 Units Outerwear- Orders fewer than 299 Units Men’s Suiting Pieces-Orders fewer than 499 Units

Note: *indicates additional charge item as applicable or requested

Test Package Full

Add. Color

Test Name

Performance Requirements

Test Method

Special Instructions

Labeling

X

X

N/A

N/A

*Fiber Content

AATCC 20/20A

*All New Material Label for Filled, quilted, padded or stuffed items only

Provincial Regulations of Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec for Stuffed & Upholstered Goods

For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance

Label verification per regulation

Reference previous fabric report where possible for fabric reference number. Additional colorway required for burnout. Check for presence of all new material label containing registration number; Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined, chemical analysis is required

ANAYLTICAL TESTING X

X

X

X

X

X

*pH

*Phthalates:

*Lead Content

X

X

*Free Nickel Content (Qualitative)

X

X

*Nickel Release

EXPRESS

AATCC 81

Whites/Colors

5.0 - 8.0

Department 90 Performance Wear

4.0 – 7.5

DEHP

Maximum 1000ppm

BBP

Maximum 1000ppm

DBP

Maximum 1000ppm

Surface Coating

Less than 90ppm

Substrate (excluding hardware)

Less than 200ppm

California Proposition 65, Solvent extraction GCMS/LMS analysis

California Proposition 65 EPA 3050B / 3051A / 3052 modified

EXP 01

Applicable to accessible metal components only Negative

BS EN 1811

< 0.28 micrograms / cm² per week

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Test only if no fabric stage test report including pH is provided OR for any garment wash items Refer to fabric stage test report, if provided. Test all PVC, vinyl, synthetic leathers (PU), and soft plastics, as per California Proposition 65 Composite when possible. Refer to fabric/raw material test report, if provided. Test all PVC, Neoprene, plastics and plasticized materials that were not tested at raw material stage, as per California Proposition 65. If submitted sample contains multiple colors, composite up to 3 colors If Positive or Inconclusive, proceed with Nickel Release and report as DATA. Test only if spot test is POSITIVE Page 12 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD ESO – 0002 Continued

Test Package Full

Add. Color

Test Name

Test Method

Performance Requirements

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

CGSB-4.2, No. 27.5

Must PASS (Canada)

Special Instructions

PERFORMANCE TESTING

X

X

*Flammability

Test only if no fabric stage test report including flammability is provided OR for any garment wash items

     

 

EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 13 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARD: EWF – 1000  SAMPLE: Woven

|

SCOPE: Non-pile, excluding >5% wool

Note: *indicates additional charge item as applicable or requested

Test Package Full

Add. Color

Test Name

CONSTRUCTION Ends & Picks X N/A Yarn Size & Type X N/A

Performance Requirements

Test Method ASTM D 3775 ASTM D1059

X

X

Weight

ASTM D 3776

X

N/A

Fiber Content

AATCC 20/20A

Special Instructions

Report as data Report as data Standard + 3%

Report in GSM and Oz/Yd2

Laminated + 5% + 3% for blends ONLY No tolerance single fiber

ANALYTICAL TESTING Whites/Color X

X

pH

AATCC 81

X

X

Formaldehyde Spot Test

EXP 33

X

X

*Formaldehyde Levels

JIS L 1041

X 

X 

*Phthalates: 

California Proposition 65,  Solvent extraction  GCMS/LMS analysis 

Department 90 Performance Wear

5.0 - 8.0 4.0-7.5

Negative 75 ppm Maximum Maximum DEHP 1000ppm Maximum BBP 1000ppm Maximum DBP 1000ppm

General Apparel: Resin Fabrics, PU, and PVC If positive proceed with Quantitative Test Test only if spot test is positive Test all PVC, vinyl, synthetic leathers (PU), and soft plastics, as per California Proposition 65. Composite when possible.

COLORFASTNESS TESTING X

X

Laundering

X

X

*Dry-cleaning

AATCC 132

X

X

Perspiration

AATCC 15

X

X

Water

AATCC 107

AATCC 61 2A

Color Change Self-Stain

4.0 4.5

Color Stain

3.5

Color Change Self-Stain Color Stain Color Change Self-Stain Color Stain Color Change Self-Stain Color Stain Dry

4.0 4.5 4.0 4.5 4.5 3.5 4.5 4.5 3.5 4.0

Wet

2.0

Follow 1A with EXP approval. Conduct 1A condition if 2A fails. Report 2A as failure and 1A as data

If failing, wash per care instruction 1 cycle and retest- report after wash as DATA.

X

X

Crocking

AATCC 8 / 116

X

X

Chlorine & NonChlorine Bleach

AATCC/ASTM TS001

X

X

Light

AATCC 16.3

X

X

*Dye Transfer in Storage

AATCC 163, Opt 1

4.0

X

X

*Sea Water

AATCC 106

Color Change Color Stain

4.0 3.5

Swimwear Only

X

X

AATCC 162

Color Change

4.0

Swimwear

EXPRESS

*Chlorinated Water

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230

4.0 (indicating proper bleaching instruction)

20 AFU



3.0 Mandatory for any color block or high contrast styles

Page 14 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

EWF – 1000 Continued Test Package

Performance Requirements

Full

Add. Color

Test Package

Test Name

Test Method

X

X

*Ozone

AATCC 109 1 Cycle

Color Change

4.0

X

X

*Burnt Gas

AATCC 23 1 Cycle

Color Change

4.0

All indigo dyed and white fabrics All indigo dyed and white fabrics Applicable to 50% or more white color block or prints.

PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTING X

X

X

X

X

X

Flammability Dimensional Stability to Washing, 3 washes *To Dry-cleaning, 1 cycle

16 CFR 1610 CGSB-4.2, No. 27.5

Class 1 Must PASS (Canada)

AATCC 135

-3 to +1%

AATCC 158

-2 to +1%

Per care instruction, if ironing is noted in care instruction Pass/Fail based on after ironing result

Color change

X

X

N/A

Visual Appearance

X

*Visual Appearance, Durability of Finish

AATCC 143

4.0

No noticeable visual defects (i.e. discoloration, fraying, bleeding, etc…) No noticeable degradation of finish after 3, 6 and 9 launderings

AATCC 143

Dimensional Stability select test should include weight (requirement as per corresponding fabric protocol) Report with and without UV suppressor. Pass/fail based on lowest result. Applicable to any foiling, pleating, special finishes, or by request

3%

X

X

N/A

Fabric Skew

N/A

Pilling (Random Tumble)

2% max prints or yarn dye

AATCC 179

ASTM D3512

30 minutes

4.0

60 minutes

3.0

Initial Stretch

X

N/A

*Stretch: Apparel

ASTM D3107

Regular>4% Elastic

20%

Comfort4% Elastic Comfort15% 270-410gsm >12 oz/yd2 or >410gsm Wet Processed

X

N/A

Tear Strength

ASTM D1424

Warp

Fill

8.0

6.0

10.0

8.0

Warp

Fill

6.0

4.0

>8-12 oz/yd2 or >270-410gsm >12 oz/yd2 or >410gsm Resin Treated Wet Processed

8.0

6.0

Warp

Fill

>8-12 oz/yd2 or >270-410gsm

5.0

3.0

>12 oz/yd or >410gsm

5.0

3.0

2

*Coated fabric requirements based on raw fabric weight Any denim fabric under 8 oz/yd2 should be tested in EWF 1000

             

EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



Page 25 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

EWF – 1003 Continued Test Package Full

Add. Color

Test Name

Performance Requirements

Test Method

Special Instructions

Minimum (lbs) Rigid

Warp

Fill

>8-12 oz/yd or >270-410gsm

115

65

>12 oz/yd or >410gsm

150

100

Warp

Fill

95

55

2

2

Wet Processed

X

N/A

Tensile Strength

ASTM D5034

>8-12 oz/yd or >270-410gsm 2

>12 oz/yd or >410gsm Resin Treated Wet Processed

130

65

Warp

Fill

>8-12 oz/yd2 or >270-410gsm

75

45

75

45

2

X

N/A

*Abrasion: Apparel

X

N/A

*Bonded, Fused and Laminated Fabrics or Garments

X

N/A

Flammability

ASTM D3885

>12 oz/yd2 or >410gsm 410gsm 2

130

Resin Treated Warp Wet Processed 2 >8-270-12oz/yd2 or >410gsm

EXPRESS

One Express Dr. Columbus, OH 43230



75

Fill 65

100 Fill 55 65 Fill

*Coated fabric requirements based on raw fabric weight * All Denim fabrics that are less than 8.0 oz/sq yd must be tested using the Woven Fabric EWF 1003

45

45

Page 44 

Rev. 2.6 – January 2017

EXPRESS APPAREL PERFORMANCE STANDARD

  EGP-6001 Continued Test Item Full

Add. Color

Test Name

Performance Requirements

Test Method

Special Instructions

Minimum (lbs) Rigid >8-12oz/yd2 or >270-410gsm >12oz/yd2 or >410gsm

X

N/A

Tear Strength

ASTM D1424

Wet Processed >8-12oz/yd2 or >270-410gsm >12oz/yd2 or >410gsm Resin Treated Wet Processed >8-12oz/yd2 or >270-410gsm >12oz/yd2 or >410gsm

Warp

Fill

8.0

6.0

10.0

8.0

Warp

Fill

6.0

4.0

8.0

6.0

Warp

Fill

5.0

3.0

5.0

3.0

Minimum (lbs) X

X

X

N/A

N/A

N/A

Seam Slippage

ASTM D434

*Pocket Strength

AATCC / ASTM TS 010

*Water ResistanceOuterwear

>8oz/yd2 or >204gsm

25

Minimum (lbs) Non20 lbf Functional 30 lbf Functional

AATCC 35