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@chiacrafts, copyrighted. Pattern for sale

 

:)  Read me, I’m the licence! :)  Hello, and thank you for having purchased this pattern! It was made with lots of love, and I hope it will be useful This pattern  was prepared by me, Chiara Cremon aka @chiacrafts. Plea Please se DO  NOT NOT redi redist stri ribu bute te this this patt patter ern, n, an and d gi give ve cred credit its s to the author when posting online or selling the product. If you  are going to share pictures on Instagram, please remember to:

insert “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and use the hashtag #chiacraftspatterns. If you  don’ n’tt, I would very much like to rec receiv ive e a pi pic cture of  your work anyway :)

For any doubt, you can contact me on Instagram!

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@chiacrafts, copyrighted. Pattern for sale

 

Stitches ★ st = stitch  ★ MR = Magic Ring ★ sc = single crochet ★ inc = increase (invisible sc increase) ★ dec = decrease (invisible sc decrease) ★ dc = double crochet ★ hdc = half double crochet ★ ch = chain ★ sl = slip stitch ★  tr = treble crochet ★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the inner

loop when working in rounds) ★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the outer

loop when working in rounds) ★ [ ] = the stitches are to be done in the same stitch

Indications ★ Rounds

are  worked with continuous rounds

technique. ★ When working  in rows, work through the entire

stitch, not  back loop or front loop only (unless specified elsewise). ★ The last  loop to be made at the end of each row is

not counted  between those indicated in the patt tte ern. You  should ould always ays add add it if not indic ndicat ate ed elsewise. ★

After fter a  chain hain,, alwa always ys work work from from seco second nd loop loop from from hook if not indicated otherwise

Tips ★ Use stitch markers ★ Count your stitches

Work the  body tight, but work normally everything else.  You could use a 2.5 hook instead of  a 2.0 one to help you working a bit more loosely! 

@chiacrafts, copyrighted. Pattern for sale

 

 

Material used ★ 2.0mm hook ★ 2.5mm hook  (to substitute the 2.0 to work more

loosely, see the Tips section) ★ 3.5mm hook (for hair only) ★ Tapestry needle ★ 2 black safety eyes size 6mm

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★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill)

Yarn rn:: I  used used Yarn YarnAr Artt Jean Jeans s (col (color or code code indi indica cate ted d in ★ Ya brackets)

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Beige (07): Skin

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Bright red (90): Fez

Black (53): Hair Violet (50): Vest Light beige (05): Pants Cacao (71): Patch Mustard (84): Pants and patch details

You can  of course use your ow own n fav avor oriite yar arn n br bra and nd!! You will have  a good result as long as you use yarn of the same size  to work all the parts and use a hook 1 size smaller than indicated! NB:: Th NB The e  on only ly ex exis isti ting ng me meas asur ure e Fo Forr Ya Yarn rnAr Artt Je Jean ans s is 33-3. 3.5. 5. However, it’s  reported being size 2 on some websites. Despite this,  you will receive the 3-3.5. You can’t get it wrong. Usin ing g th thiis  materia ialls, the finis ish hed dim ime ens nsiions shou ould ld be 17cmx6cm

@chiacrafts, copyrighted. Pattern for sale

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Work the entire body with beige yarn and 2.0 mm hook

Legs

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R1: 6 sc in MR (6) R2-R14: 6 sc (6) Make two legs. For the  first leg: pull out the yarn and cut it (leave a long tail in case some sewing should be needed). Ins nsttead, aft fte er  making the second leg, don’ n’tt cut the yarn rn;; you’ll keep on working from there to join the legs.

Torso First, join the legs:

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R15: 3  sc in 2nd leg, ch 3, 6 sc in 1st leg, 3 sc in back of   the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (18)

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Now we’re enlarging to create the booty! R16: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 11 sc (20) R17-R18: 20 sc (20) R19: 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 11 sc (18)

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Booty finished :) R20: 18 sc (18) R21: (7 sc, dec) x 2 (16) R22: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14) Star artt st stuf uffi fing ng th the e bo body dy,, ke keep ep st stuf uffi fing ng wh whil ile e go goin ing g to towa ward rds s St the neck. Don’t over do it: stuff just enough to keep the shape. R23: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) R24: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10) R25: (3 sc, dec) x 3 (8) R26: (2 sc, dec) x 3 (6) I advise  you to do the embroidery for the pecs now, before stuffing that part of the body.

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2 rounds for the neck R27-R28: 6 sc (6)

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Head R29: 6 inc (12)  

R30: 12 inc (24) R31: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36) poiint nt,, your stitc tch h marker is pro roba bab bly somewhere At this  po behind the  doll’s back (use the booty as a reference to unde un ders rsta tand nd wh whic ich h  is th the e fr fron ontt an and d wh whic ich h is th the e ba back ck). ). Yo You u must now  make enough stitches to position the stitch

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with the next round. shape to  the head to make the face… To give this asymmetrical shape,  in R32, the (1sc, inc) x 9 are

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marker right  on the left side of the doll before moving on Why this is??  Because we’re abou outt to give an asymmetr triical

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suppo pos sed to  be on the fron ontt, whereas the 18 sc sho hou uld be on the  back. For this to be true, you must be positioned on the  left side at the beginning of R32. If you’re already close to  the left side, you can simply continue with R32. Otherwise, you  must make some additional sc so that you’ll start R32 from a good position. If you’re  indeed on the back, this operation should not increase the  number of rounds on the face of the doll. However, if  you were somewhere just past the left shoulder, you  are indeed adding one round to the face. This won’t  impact too much the look of your doll, don’t worry! R32: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45) R33-R34: 45 sc (45) R35: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38) R36-R42: 38 sc (38) R43: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)

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Stop and  place the safety eyes between R37 and round 38, 8 stitches apart. If yo you’ u’d d li like ke to ma make ke an em embr broi oide dery ry fo forr th the e eye yes, s, th that at’s ’s th the e best moment  to do it (there’s a tutorial in my Instagram profile on how to!) Also Al so,, pr prep epar are e  tw two o ey eyeb ebro rows ws us usin ing g bl blac ack k yar arn n an and d 2. 2.0 0 mm hook (work tight). Each eyebrow is ch4 Sew th the em  right ab abo ove the eye, on one e extre rem mit ity y @R39 and the other @R40

@chiacrafts, copyrighted. Pattern for sale

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  R44: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30) R45: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) Keep stuffing while you close the head! R46: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18) R47: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12) R48: 6 dec (6) Cut the  yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tap ape estry needl dle e,  pass th the e tail thr hro ough all th the e loop ops s of the las astt rou ound nd,,  and pu pull ll.. Make a knot and hi hid de the yarn insid ide e the doll’s body.

Arms R1: 6 sc in MR (6) R2-R10: 6 sc (6) Then make  a slip stitch, turn, make 2 sc, one more slip stitch. This should  give you the curvature for the shoulders (there’s a  video tutorial on how to do it on my Instagram profile). Make 2 arms. At the  end of each arm, pull out the yarn and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the  arms so that the upper part corresponds to round 24 of the body (right below the neck).

Hair The hair is formed by two wigs.

Work both  the wigs with black yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.5 hook (p hook (pay ay  at atte tent ntio ion n to thi his s ho hook ok cha hang nge: e: thi his s ma mak kes th the e hair ha irs s lo long nger er  an and d th thic icke ker. r. Cr Croc oche hett in inte tent ntio iona nall lly y lo loos osel ely y to keep the hair straight).  

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Lower layer wig  wig  To pr pre epar are e  the hair wig, you must star artt wi witth a lo lon ng cha haiin (main chain)  long 9. You’re going to crochet one single hair in each loop of this chain.

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1st hair:  sc in second loop from hook of the main chain, ch  7, 6 sc from second loop from hook of   the chain  you’ve just made, sc in next loop of the main chain

@chiacrafts, copyrighted. Pattern for sale

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2nd to  7th hair: ch 7, 6 sc from second loop from hook of  the chain you’ve just made, sc in next loo loop of the main chain

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8th hair:  ch 7, 6 sc from second loop from hook of  the chain you’ve just made

 

You can  add more hairs if needed (you must check for   them to cover the head). You can  also vary the length of the hairs if you think they are too short or too long.

Upper layer wig  wig 

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1st hair:  sc in second loop from hook of the main chain, ch  10, 9 sc from second loop from hook of   the chain  you’ve just made, sc in next loop of the main chain

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2nd to  9th hair: ch 10, 9 sc from second loop from hook of  the chain you’ve just made, sc in next loo loop of the main chain

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10th to  11th hair: ch 13, 12 sc from second loop from from hook hook of the the chai chain n yo you’ u’ve ve ju just st made made,, sc in next next loop of the main chain

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Pants Work with light beige yarn and 2.0 mm hook Start by making to pants legs: R1: ch 8 (8) R2: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10) R3: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12) R4: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14) R5: 14 sc (14) R6: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12) R7: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10) R8-R9: 10 sc (10) Make 2. Pull out the yarn and cut it after making the first leg, but don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg. You’ll move on from there to join the legs. R10: 5 sc in 2nd leg, ch 1, 10 sc in 1st leg, 1 sc in back of the chain, 5 sc in 2nd leg (22) R11-R12: 22 sc (22) d>4

Change to mustard yarn. Keep working with 2.0 mm hook

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Pull out the yarn and cut it. Leave a long tail for sewing. Once done, put the pants on the doll. You can help yourself pulling putting some yarn loops to the feet of the

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Then pass the mustard tail left through all the FL of R13, and pull gently. Sew the bottom of the pants as well.

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Patch Work with cacao yarn and 2.0 mm hook. This part is worked in rows. Row1: ch 3 (2) Row2: 2 sc (2) Row3: 2 sc (2) You obtain a small square. Fasten off

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Sew the patch to the pants using mustard yarn.

Fez Work with bright red yarn and 2.0 mm hook. R1: 6 sc in MR (6) R2: 6 inc (12) R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18) R4: 18 sc BLO (18) R5-R6: 18 sc (18) Z4x

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@chiacrafts, copyrighted. Pattern for sale

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