Overlock sewing

Everything you need to know about

OVERLOCKING LESSON BOOKLET Overlockers, also known as Sergers, can simplify and speed up so many of the common tasks used in  sewing. Working at more than twice twice the speed of a domestice sewing sewing machine, an overlocker overlocker is a plea-  sure to use and makes the task of sewing much quicker, neatening edges as you sew.

This booklet

Getting started

has been designed to enable you to keep a record of the different types of stitching (basic, special or decorative) that you will achieve if you follow the lessons in our DVD ‘Everything you need to know about overlocking’.

Sample Fabrics

The physical record of each stitch type will be a reminder when you come to use your overlocker  for future projects. projects. The data you record record here will specically relate to your own machine.

You will also need knitted fabric or lycra, super  stretchy fabric, ne fabrics and rm fabric enough of each of these t hese to create samples.

To follow the basic lessons we suggest you prepare samples of calico cut to t the booklet pages. Most samples will require two layers.

Threads Our students usually purchase a folder with clear  plastic pockets to place their page and samples into.

For the purposes of practicing, we suggest you use the colour threads that your machine is colour  coded for, so that you can easily see on your  samples how each needle or looper thread is working. It will be easier easier to make tension or other  adjustments accordingly. We wish you all the best as you learn from these lessons. We hope you will become much more condent with the use of your machine. From the team at Sewing With Condence.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

Threading the Overlocker

1

Threading is the first step in using an overlocker, but is the most important step, as faulty threading will result in no stitches or faulty stitches forming. Threading an overlocker might look challenging but a good quality overlocker, will assist you by making this important step as easy and time saving as possible.

 Your Overlocker should have ►  A threading diagram on the machine indicating the sequence and colour coding for  each thread. ►

Each thread’s path should be colour  coded on the machine, from the thread stand to the needle or looper.

►  A self-threading lower looper. ►

Clip-off presser feet that enable you to reach the needles and loopers easily.

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Tension which releases as soon as the presser foot is lifted.

Start at the beginning ►

Choose a good quality thread.

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For regular sewing with normal tension, use the same type of thread for the loopers and the needles.

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Try not to use one large cone for one looper and a small 1000 m reel for the other looper as this could result in uneven tension.

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Do not use woolly thread referred to as ‘flock’ or  ‘floss’ in the needles, as this will keep on breaking,  jamming, perhaps even breaking the needles.

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Thread one reel at a time, starting at the thread stand and following the indicated path up to the needle or looper.

►  Always start with the upper looper then the lower  looper.

Note: Follow the threading sequence for your specific model.

 Always start with the upper looper, following the indicated path. Pulling in a new thread. You can knot and pull a new thread through by following these basic guidelines. 1. Cut the threads between the thread stand and the thread spool. 2. Knot the new threads in position. 3. Remove the needle threads as the needles have to be threaded last. 4.

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Bring all threads under the presser foot to the back and drop the presser foot.

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If you have a problem it is always better to remove the threads and start right from the beginning.

Put the tension levers to the lowest number and lift the pressure foot to disengage the tension.

5. Pull one thread at a time to let it run through the thread guides. 6. Check that each thread is threaded correctly. 7. Do a test after each thread change.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

1

Threading your overlocker  After you have completed your threading using the 4 different colour  threads, and the test is to your satisfaction note the settings below. Left Needle -

Right Needle -

Upper Looper -

Lower Looper -

Cutting Width -

Stitch Length -

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BASIC LESSON

2

4 thread overlock stitch ► Two needles and two loopers are used. The 4-thread overlock will allow for fabric elasticity, which makes it an ideal stitch to use on knitted fabric, e.g., track-suiting and T-shirts ► Because the finished stitch width = 6mm, this stitc h can be used to sew and overlock a seam in one operation. For example, in making tracksuits it will be strong enough. ► Preferably use calico for this test.

Cutting width test: Stitch length test:

4 thread SL = 2.5 CW = 2

Cut fabric 15cm long & 6cm wide. Divide in 3 equal segments = 3 cutting widths Cut fabric 16cm long & 6cm wide. Divide into 4 equal segments = 4 stitch lengths

Varied Stitch Width CW = 1, 2 & 3

Varied Stitch Length SL = 1, 2, 3 & 4

The 4 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for  ►

Sewing up highly stretchable fabrics, e.g. gym and swimwear where seams will be under high strain.

►

Special techniques, e.g. sewing on elastic, gathering with the overlocker, making piping and securing it in position.

►

Decorative stitching, e.g. when doing tucks.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

3 thread overlock stitch The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH is formed by one needle thread, which anchors 2 looper threads. The two ‘looper’ threads meet on the edge of the fabric and the needle thread acts as a straight stitch.

3

Record your machine settings below in each column for each sample you create. WIDE

NARROW

VERY NARROW

Left Needle-

Left Needle-

Left Needle-

Right Needle-

Right Needle-

Right Needle-

Upper Looper 

Upper Looper 

Upper Looper 

Lower Looper 

Lower Looper 

Lower Looper 

Cutting Width-

Cutting Width-

Cutting Width-

Stitch Length-

Stitch Length-

Stitch Length-

The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used ►

To finish off frayed edges on woven fabrics or to form an open or closed single seam.

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To sew and finish off a seam in one operation when sewing lightweight knitted fabric, such as T-shirting.

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To sew decorative finishing, e.g. flat seams, decorative edges, tucks and making cords.

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To sew roll hemming and its variations such as pintucks and lace insertions. © 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

4

2 thread overlock stitch using the ‘UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER’ ► Only one needle and one looper are used. The needle thread anchors the lower looper  thread, which rolls or loops over to the top of the fabric.

2 thread seam finishing

2 thread Roll Hem

2 thread Flatlocking ► For►a►2-thread►overlock►stitch,►use►the► upper►looper►converter.► ► The►stitch►looks►like►a►3-thread►stitch► from►the►top,►but►the►needle►thread► forms,►an►even►‘V’►on►the►bottom.► ► Test►for►the►correct►stitch►setting►by► pulling►the►fabric►for►the►stitch►to►lie►flat.

The 2 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for: ►

Finishing off raw edges on woven fabrics especially on very lightweight fabrics where a soft seam finish is required and where a 3- thread overlock stitch will be too thick and bulky.

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Decorative stitching such as flatlock seams, as it will pull open and lay flat

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Roll hemming and its variations © 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

5

4 thread overlock stitching using DIFFERENTIAL FEED  All overlockers today offer this feature. It means that the feed mechanism is divided into two parts, which can operate as one or as separate parts It can be set as follows:

► Normal setting (N) for regular sewing. The two parts work together and the fabric is fed through evenly. ► Special setting (1.5 to 2) for knitted fabric. The front section of the feeding mechanism moves up to twice the distance of the back section, resulting in the fabric being “pushed” together and thus preventing it from stretching during sewing. ► Special setting (0.7) for thin and difficult to handle fabrics. The back section of the feeding mechanism moves over a longer distance than the front section, resulting in the fabric being pulled through to the back, thus preventing the fabric from puckering. The differential feed feature will also enable you to gather with the overlocker and create a Super Stretch Stitch which is a very elastic stitch formed using two needles and the lower looper. This stitch requires the Upper Looper  Converter and Woolly Nylon Thread (Also called ‘floss’ or ‘flock’.)

Knitted fabric & lycra

Thin Fabrics

Super Stretch Stitch

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

Gathering

BASIC LESSON

6

Roll hemming The new overlockers will sew roll hemming with great ease. No presser feet or stitching plates need to be changed. This stitch is ideally used as an edge finish on frills, sleeves and hems in fine fabrics.

Special hints when sewing rolled hems Set the overlocker as follows ► Use a narrow three thread overlock or a two-thread overlock stitch. ► Set the cutting width to the lowest setting. ► Set the stitch length to 1mm depending on the thread and the required effect. ► Set the tension dials as per your instruction manual.

On firm fabric

► When sewing a very fine and loosely woven fabric, use a slightly wider cutting width to ensure a strong, neat edge finish. Also start by cutting 4 cm off the seam allowance so that the needle will enter the fabric with the first stitch, ► Use a wide cutting width and tighter lower looper tension when sewing stiff fabrics. ►  Avoid ‘dog ears’ on corners: Start sewing, cutting 5 mm deeper than the required amount and move towards the cutting line. Sew up to 3 cm from the corner; sew at an angle towards the corner to cut off 5 mm more than normal.

On lightweight fabric

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

On fine fabric

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Finishing Off Chains Because of the way an overlocker is designed, special techniques are required to use it effectively, e.g. overlockers do not sew in reverse, so to finish off beginnings and endings of  seams the following techniques could be used.

SEAM BEGINNING 1. Sew a 3-4 cm thread chain. 2. Sew 2 stitches onto the fabric. 3. Lower needle into the fabric. 4. Raise the presser foot. 5. Straighten out the thread chain and remove stitching from the stitch finger. Lay the threads from the left back to the front and lay it under the presser  foot. 6. Lower the presser foot. 7. Sew over the thread chain for  2 cm and cut off the excess chain with the knife

SEAM ENDING 1. Sew to the end of the seam. 2. Raise the needle and presser  foot. 3. Remove the stitching gently from the stitch finger. 4. Turn the fabric over towards you and lay it under the presser foot so that the needle enters the fabric with the first stitch. 5. Lower the presser foot. 6. Sew carefully over the previous stitching without cutting for about 2 cm. 7. Raise the tip of the foot and turn the work away from you. 8. Stitch off the edge.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

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Sewing Outside Corners

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1. Cut into the corners where you will be using this technique, cutting off the extra fabric you would normally cut off with the blades - about 3-4 cm. 2. Sew up to the corner and one stitch over the edge of  the fabric. 3. Raise the needle and presser  foot. 4. Pull the work slightly to the back to clear the stitch finger. 5. Turn the fabric and lay it under the presser foot so that the cut edge of the fabric is against the knife. 6. Lower the presser foot and needle. 7. If necessary, pull all the threads tight above the first machine guide. Continue sewing.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

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Sewing Inside Corners

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1. Prepare your fabric with a square shape cut out (as for  a square neckline).

Cut out square 2. Snip into the corner up to the stitching line. (You may find it easier to trim the seam allowance to between 3 -6 mm depending on your Stitch Width).

Cut

3. Sew into the corner. 4. Straighten out the fabric. 5. Continue sewing

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

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Sewing a Continuous Edge

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1. As the blade of an overlocker  is positioned in front of the needle, special sewing techniques are required. 2. Cut away a 4cm section out of the seam allowance. 3. Raise the needle and presser  foot. 4. Position the fabric under the presser foot with the cutaway edge against the knife. 5. Lower the presser foot and sew until the seam is complete. 6. Sew a few stitches over the previous stitches without cutting them. 7. Raise the tip of the presser  foot. 8. Turn the work away and sew off the edge.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

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Decorative Stitching

LESSONS

An overlocker can be used to its fullest  potential by using it for decorative effects. It has become so easy to sew decorative stitching. ►

With easy to set tensions and easy selections of stitches e.g. roll hemming without the need to change presser feet or stitch plates.

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The possibility to convert a 3-thread stitch to a 2-thread overlock stitch in seconds.

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 And the availability of specialized presser feet and accessories, e.g. gathering, piping, cord work, etc.

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See the section on Overlocker Accessories

Some Tips for using Decorative Threads: ►

Decorative threads specially made for  overlockers are becoming widely available. You may need to change the tensions when using special threads on an overlocker:

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When using slippery decorative thread use the spool nets for even unwinding.

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This is important only use decorative threads in the loopers.

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Threads must move easily and without resistance through the thread guides and looper  eye and this should be taken into account when purchasing the thread.

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The thicker the thread, the looser the tensions. To set the tension, set one tension at a time.

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 An important TIP sew slowly when using decorative threads and pull the thread chain gently backwards when starting to sew.

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 ALWAYS test-sew when using decorative threads.

If you are not sure if you have enough thread, you can calculate the amount of decorative thread needed for your project as follows: Looper threads will require 7 mt of thread for every 1 mt length of stitching. So measure the length you need to sew and multiply it by 7.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

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LESSON

1

Decorative Tucks Decorative tucks can be very effective, Turn and lock the upper blade away. Fold the fabric and guide the fold on the guide mark on the presser foot.

TUCK VARIATIONS 1. Use a wide 3-thread overlock stitch with different thread colours in the loopers. 2. Overlock parallel tucks. 3. Always start the tucks at the same end and position the fabric so that when you sew the pucks down you will get the effect you are wanting. 4. Now sew the tucks down with a sewing machine in alternative directions (See the lesson)

DECORATIVE EDGES 1. Use a 3 thread narrow overlock stitch(See lesson 3 of basic lessons). Use decorative threads in the loopers. 2. Set the stitch length very short - to a satin stitch length. 3. The looper threads must meet at the edge of the fabric. (This is not a ROLL hemming stitch).

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

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LESSON

2

Decorative Roll Hemming  Apart from roll hemming being a practical stitch; it can be used very effectively as decorative stitching. (See Lesson 6 under the basic stitches section on how to set your machine for roll hemming). Remember decorative thread is only used on the upper looper . When using decorative thread your settings may need ro be adjusted.

Try these variations Use a decorative thread in the upper looper.

1. Set the machine for a short stitch length and sew a “satin stitch” rolled edge.

2. NOW DO A TEST 3. You may need to adjust the tension to suit the thread thickness.

Pin Tucks This is very effective on shirts, skirts & yokes. Turn the blade away and sew the rolled edge on folded fabric to form a pin-tuck.

Lace Insertions Place the wrong sides together  when you sew the lace in position using a roll hem.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.

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LESSON

3

Flatlock Seams Flat seams are formed by sewing a 2 or 3 thread overlock stitch to join two pieces of fabric or on the fold of the fabric. The fabric is then pulled open so that the stitch lies flat.

Settings for Flatlocking 1. Use a 3 or 2 thread overlock stitch. Set the needle tension at the lowest setting, and the lower  looper tighter.

2. For a 2-thread overlock stitch, use the upper looper converter. (See lesson 4 in basic lessons.)

3. The stitch looks like a 3-thread stitch from the top, but the needle thread forms, an even ‘V’ on the bottom. These threads must meet at the edge of the fabric

4. Test for the correct stitch setting by pulling the fabric for the stitch to lie flat.

© 2011 Sewing With Condence Ltd.