January 30, 2017 | Author: JoaoBorges | Category: N/A
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REPERTOIRE Mechanical restrictions on JC22 █ Barrel drawing Fr & UK – electronic restrictions on JC22 De-restricting top engine █ other restrictions (cutting shunt on CI639 & overview) Top-end rebuild , schedule , barrel & piston sizes █ polishing █ head bolts precautions Buying a JOLLYMOTO █ how to fit it █ Irridium sparkplugs █ carbon reed Dismantling carb ,tray , access to RC control unit, taking off CDI, locking servo-motor the Carburettor : Dismantling , float tank level , jetting , various tricks Electronic de-restrictions : CDI & RC valves control unit The workshop manual (English) █ Micro-fiches █ shock absorbers █ starter repair Batteries : charging & checking █ RC Valves sequence of working Periodic maintenance █ Ignition bug ? help ? what to check DIY a flywheel puller Fairing repairs █ chain & sprockets kit █ the air box filter modifications Which Tyres █ Working on Brakes (liquid change , air draining ,back light switches) Bugs watch and where to look for Headlights & bulbs █ Leds █ Tuning : Clocks modifications (taking off) Clocks screens (dismantling and replacing) █ Sealing paste various Greasing (oil pump, cables, gear box drainer) , forks , chain █ a nice windscreen Servo-motor & CDI function principles R/C opening Diagrams (comparison UK & FR) CARB size 34 install Replacement LEDS

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NOTE of the AUTHOR If I could carry out this collection , it is thanks to all those which work on our forum Geneva-racing in particular LIMP (the originator of the forum) and especially DAVNAV which carries out research and the designs of projects such as measures TDCI and CASES of the VALVES, the plate with FREDO . I want to also thank: - TIM at David Silver Spares who is always available when I need information - Ronnie AMIGHETTI (owner of jollymoto) which enables us to buy its lines of exhaust - Mattew at Dellorto which enables us to obtain jets in 4-5 days - all the other English "PROS" (beedspeed, chestshire salvage, bike revival, etc....) who provide us in parts, untraceable or out of price in France. - all members of the forum like those of the English forum (BCF, 125ccSPORTBIKE FORUM)

THE DE-RESTRICTION The only common restriction to the JC22 and JC20 is the muffler (see 125nsr.free.fr)

MECHANIC RESTRICTION ON JC22 In 1993, due to the law reforming the motorbike licences, and in order to limit the JC22 to 11KW, HONDA made certain modifications on the top-engine: - decreased and redrawn Transfers (lower and slightly smaller) - Exhaust ports definitely smaller - exhaust chamber straight and smooth (different valves) - smaller Jets 132, 38, 55, the JC20 have 145, 45, 70



The CDI unit has the advance timing limited around 10000 rpm The RC valves control unit has opening limited at 70% (TV-124 model see page 13)


SCHEDULE - 7500 miles (12000 kms) ►rings change - 15000 miles (24000 kms) ►piston & rings change - 22500 miles (36000 kms) ►top-end change All these operations need de-coking , barrel & head polishing and these spares :  piston pin , 2 clips , small end bearing  base cylinder seal , cylinder head gasket , oil seal (valves crank)


Replacement forged pistons Much stronger than cast pistons , these are provided with rings ,pin & clips around £100

what parts to polish it’s important to polish as a mirror : squish of the head , top piston . this avoid the coke to stock on them the round of piston can be cleaned with waterproof sandpaper # 400 or 600 only by rubbing vertically the valves , valves crank & exhaust port must be de-coked seriously but not polished Note : as the top piston is polished you wont see anymore the way of mounting, so always look that the rings close facing back . Also the head can be skimmed by 0.6mm but not more

Head bolts mounting precautions When you put the bolts on a new barrel or new bolts on a barrel , you should not force when you screw them in . lock 2 nuts together then use a short spanner drop a bit of locking paste on the thread before screwing , then screw and stop as soon as you see the last bit of thread disappearing . if you continue until it’s hard you will crack the strip causing water leaks , sometimes the leaks come when the engine is warm


kit cyl-piston 12105KY4 505 Piston rings 13010 KY4 305 Piston pin 13111 KM4 000 Bearing small end 91101 KR1 761

£115 £22 £7.50 £6.50

clips (2) 13115 KM7 700 Base cyl seal 12191 KY4 971 Cyl head gasket 12251 KY4 902 Oil seal 91201 PA9 004

£2.10 £1.75 £7.50 £2.55

Post 1993 import models (France,germany,switzerland) must be added Flap left 14201 KY4 901 Flap right 14202 KY4 901 Base guide 14301 KY4 90 * Flaps shaft 14211 KY4 900

£19.78 £19.78 £17.12 £18.81

Plate guide 14321 KY4 900 Base guide cover 14302 KY4 901 * Cylinder head 12201 KBS 900 * Nut , shaft 90310 634 980

* If required because in bad shape http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk shipping)

£4.55 £6.50 £20 £0.69 Ph : 01728 833 020 (prices ex VAT &

OTHER DE-RESTRICTIONS CUTING THE SHUNT ON CI639 The cut of the bridge which one sees the position on the figure of left would make it possible to cancel the effect of spluttering beyond 10500 RPM and would get a slightly higher torque. After having released and having cut this shunt, it is recommended to weld a switch before filling there the hole with adhesive or silicone, not to have to reopen if you are not happy - To adjust the jets for the JC22 with 135,42,60 and if you fit a race exhaust or de-restrict your genuine 138,42,65 Jets available http://www.dellorto.co.uk (£10 shipping 3 days) - to mount a race system, nearby prices (£210-250) or on EBAY : a) JOLLYMOTO 402 silencers Aluminium or carbon: light, good heat exchange, maximum longevity, ideal efficiency http://www.jollymoto.it b) GIANELLI lower output, good longevity, good heat exchange, black point: no guarantee if defects of welding. http://www.giannelli.com/eng/prodotti/lin.asp?id=43 - Mount sparkplugs IRRIDIUM http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk (BR9EIX or BR10EIX at £6.84 ex VAT) - Mount reed valves carbon http://www.blue-oil-france.com/default.php?cPath=210 (£23)



The model for our NSR is the 402, Aluminium can £205 , carbon can £ 245, prices including all taxes and delivery . How to proceed: - send me a pm with your name, address, email or phone (no mobile), kind of silencer wanted and to await my answer (I pass a mail to the boss and a phone call to see whether all is OK) - if all is well, I pass to you a mail with the banking co-ordinates of JOLLYMOTO and the total bill , then you go under 48H at your bank to carry out a wire with their co-ordinates or billing invoice that it sends to me (and that I forward to you) - You will receive your package 10 to 15 days after their account will be credited (3 to 5 days wrought)

INSTALLING THE EXHAUST - remove the lower fairings (it’s easier) and the old exhaust (to recover the large exhaust gasket) - take the aluminium flange and install O-ring (slightly oiled) inside it - assemble the flange on the exit driving exhaust with the large gasket between them - assemble the silent-block under the footbrake pedal in the place of the original fixing (and to tighten) - introduce the exhaust in the flange while turning it left-right-hand side on itself (well push in) - bring the mounting foot on the silent-block, put the nut 1 turn just for holding - check if the footbrake pedal (push firmly down) does not touch the exhaust .If yes: upwards increase the hole in "bean" with a round file or by boring a secant hole on the fixing leg. Re-install, check again - present the silencer with its mounting collar and check if it goes without too much forcing If yes: to fold a little the tube of exit upwards - check again and it is finished for the adjustment - put the springs between the flange and the exhaust pipe - In the order to tighten firmly: the 2 nuts of the flange, the silent-block nut, the can fixing and the canpipe bolt

IRRIDIUM SPARKPLUGS ADVANTAGES: - Better distribution of the spark thus more powerful lighting and smoother engine - Saving in fuel (yes, yes!!) profit 1/2 to 3/4 L on full tank, lifespan doubles ** DISADVANTAGES: - they are expensive £6.84 ex. VAT THERMAL INDEX: - October-April of normal use BR9EIX , May-September or intensive use BR10EIX ** ** A clogged exhaust, an engine coked or with piston-rings worn, a too rich adjustment, too much oil can even clog this type of plug, clean and that sets out again TEST the STATE of YOUR ENGINE with The SPARK PLUG http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html CARBON REEDS They are worth £23. http://www.blue-oil-france.com/default.php?cPath=210 ref : 360451 They are not BOYSEN (expensive, more torque in bottom) or AKTIVE (even more expensive, more torque in top) but that is worth the blow. Profit of power, flexibility engine, performances increased in top on all the beach of use

DISMANTLING CARB & SERVO-MOTOR (Access to the RC valve control unit)

- take off tank (1 bolt in the back , watch the fixing bits , do not loose one) and air box (2 bolts then unscrew the fixing collar with the carb , live it on the pipe) - disconnect any pipe coming in the carb (hold the oil pipe [the black rubber pipe] as high as possible lock it on the right side with a piece of wire) - undo the screw on top of the choke and pull it out , undo the 2 screws on top of the throttle and pull it out (do not dismantle) - unscrew the collar between carb and intake pipe , then carb is your's TAKING OFF THE PLASTIC TRAY This tray holds servo-motor assembly and connectors protection in a cubic box and need to be taken off when you want access underneath (especially for the RC valves control unit) It has on the left side a fixing bolt , and on the right side 2 hollow bumps where go 2 rubber bits . these bits have a hole , onto the frame it's 2 pins which receive the rubbers and hold them , so to take the tray off you must escape these 2 pins horizontally or slightly lifted from the left DISMOUNTING - On the left side you see a cubic box (about 2"x2") , it has a plastic lock , push that and open the cover - Unplug the servo-motor connector and the loose wire , take out the servo loom from the 2 hooks on the tray - The servo has a holder with 2 bits , press them and it will come out (it's not necessary to dismantle anything , just take off cables from stopper and put on side) - The tray has a screw (diameter 6 , use a 10 socket) , so undo it , unplug the connectors (when refitting you cannot make a mistake they are different) - Only from the left , lift up a bit the tray and pull it right to left , it will come out

TAKING OFF THE CDI Unit The CDI unit is under your seat near the backlight . It's fitted as the RC unit with a rubber holder .You probably have to take the back side fairing out . What i have done on mine for having a better access , is to cutting with a blade of a steel saw , half of the plastic vertical partition (the back) to give me access to the connectors . unplug the 2 connectors and the loose wire on a round terminal . Lift it up vertically turning front to back to escape the seat lock . It's not so easy , but it comes out . REMEMBER: if you change your CDI unit by a different country specs check carefully if it’s compatible or you will have to modify the wiring . Example fitting a UK specs CDI (CI626) on a FRENCH IMPORT bike require to cross the green and the black/yellow on the connector (the one with 4 wires) . Report to page 7


CARB should be cleaned at the approach of the winter to avoid starting bugs . To blow the jets with the compressed air or using bomb easy to find in data processing. clean the strainer. There is however some care to take and in particular the position of the brass strip located between the 2 floats, because its position determines the height of gasoline in the float chamber. If you fold it to the top you will decrease the height of gasoline, and to the bottom you will increase. In theory it is regulated for a height of gasoline of 24mm. it could happen, if you fall down, that this strip (it is slim, 4 or 5/10 mm) be distort or that the punch himself wedge in its housing. This will be able to cause a flooded CARB and you will have to adjust all that. How to proceed? Use the draining screw , with the little pipe drain the fuel in a little bottle . take off float chamber hold the big screw to block the hole then put the drained fuel in the chamber . now the height can be seen

On the left ,see how works the float valve (languette flotteur = brass strip , entrée essence = fuel entry)


DIFFERENCE UK & FR, DE CDI UNIT (France CI639) 30410 KBS 621

Couleur Fr Noir/blanc Rouge/noir vert bleu Rouge/blanc Noir/jaune Vert/blanc

Colour Uk Black/white Red/black green blue Red/white Black/yellow Green/white

Va à (Fr) Contact à clé Charge CDI masse Capteur allumage vitesse→Valves RC Etincelle+compteur Sécurité béquille

Go to (Uk) Start key CDI charge ground Ignition timing RC valves timing Spark+tachometer Security stand

CDI unit (UK & IT CI626) 30410 KBS 901

You can note that the black/yellow & green wires are reversed, it is necessary thus, if you fit a UK CDI unit on a French bike to make the following manipulation: On the 4 wires connector 4 leaving the loom, use tweezers with sharp ends. Side opposed to the entry of wire you can see the end of the 4 terminals, introduce a end between the plastic and the terminal (that frees the stop) and pull out gently the wire .You do that with black/yellow and the green, then cross them and refit in the connector. In addition, whilst the two terminals are out, grip them a little to optimize the contacts (a small pliers with fine nozzles is perfect). In more pay attention to push well the terminal inside the bottom of the connector. This CDI unit is negotiated on EBAY around £45 (it becomes rare) but is worth £87 new including all taxes, in the same way for the R/C valves unit (less rare) and which is worth £130 RC Valves CONTROL UNIT The Case to be gone up is TV-78 the U.K. & IT (31810 KBS 901), no modifications to do, dismounts the TV124 (31810 KBS 621) and replace by the TV-78 (see diagrams in page 13). This case allows an opening of the valves 90-95% however the TV-124 plus the FREDO plate (see http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~davnav/ ) produced the same effect and will cost you only approximately £12 because it will be necessary for you to equip it with a connector to ensure the reliability of the system (see http://www.gotronic.com )


Since 1993 (beginning of JC22) not a lot of spares, except fairings, have been changed, prior of 1993 the name was JC20. Honda references of new parts for the JC22 have been changed from KY4 to KBS http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/NSRmanualDOC.zip (whole manual) 64,3 Mo Electrical wiring - http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/schema_R.jpg - http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/schema_F.jpg



http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/NSR125refs.zip Fairings & stickers 1999-2001 http://www.geneva-racing.ch/~alains/nsr125deco.zip

SHOCK ABSORBERS For the JC20, trade mark BETOR price £100 top-of-the-range and adjustable, delivered in 3 days (wrought). Recall: HONDA price £200 http://bikerevival.co.uk/page1.html Important infos The Shock absorbers for JC22 have several differences: fixings are in diameter 10 (8 on the JC20) , the length is 295 mm (instead of 270) . I did not find yet a BETOR for JC22, I wait until the manufacturer wants to give me information, on this subject. I seek also other marks because the Honda are really too expensive!

MAINTENANCE or REPAIRING the STARTER The sources of breakdowns are primarily the relay and the brushes - For the relay, nothing to do to check it, in general the breakdowns come from the contacts "puffed out" by the sparks to starting - For the starter, the breakdowns come primarily from worn brushes, softened springs and collector clogged. Buy new brushes and springs (peanuts). Dismount the rotor, put it on a good drilling machine, to turn while passing a fine sand paper in order to clean the inequalities. With the scraper (see picture) to dig bakelite between each blade approximately 1mm of depth (see handbook 17-5 and will see the trace left by the brushes and the features of the between-blades). Pass by again a fine sand paper to level the burs. Now you can assemble and do not forget to lubricate the stages with petroleum jelly oil. FOOT-NOTE: if the new brushes have a flat end, pose an end of abrasive cloth fine on the collector and use gently to obtain a curved print, the contacts will be better and the sparks will be reduced. These scrappers are made with an old blade of steel saw and put in shape with a grinder , they are basic tools , cost peanuts but very efficient Translation GRATTOIRS Scrappers A affûter …………………. to sharp as a knife Démarreur …………………. Starter Sans importance …………… no matter Bougies ……………………. sparkplug commutor , the other for top to clean the sparkplugs The top one isstarter for scrapping the collector, thetheother


There are 2 types of batteries: the lead-acid batteries and the batteries iron-nickel the batteries motor bikes are all containing lead and of electrolyte (liquid mixture) acid sulphuric at 28°. They are made up of plates covered with an amalgam whose composition imports us little. Each element has a voltage of 2.2 Volts at the end of the charge and 1.8 Volts at the end of the discharge. A battery of 12 V is thus made up of 6 elements (6 V = 3 elements) what gives 13.2 Volts at the end of the charge and 10.8 Volts at the end of the discharge. The battery capacity is measured in Ampere-hour (Ah) and is a function of the surface of the plates, the quantity of matter on these plates and of the volume of electrolyte. With the use the plates are degraded and the quantity of matter on them is reduced, which leads the battery to have a reduced capacity. A battery which charges heating (touch it at the time of an external loading) and more the current (intensity in A) is strong, plus it heats. That causes a deformation of the plates with loss matter important: a run down battery freezes with approximately -10° and you can throw it if it has frozen CHARGING HIS BATTERY A lead-acid battery does not like a fast charge, it is always necessary to charge with a maximum current of 10% of its capacity, that is to say 0.5 A for a NSR (capacity 5Ah) during 8 to 12H. After a load, let the battery cool down 1 Hour then to measure its terminal voltage. If it does not reach 12.8 Volts change it. Do not assemble it immediately, take again its voltage 5 to 8 H later and if it lost more than 0.3 volts throw it . FOOT-NOTE You can make these operations without dismounting the battery, but take care to disconnect the positive or ground and to connect you directly on the terminals of the battery. Indeed the electronic rectifiers and circuits do not appreciate, it is thus necessary to isolate all the circuit from the bike.


Translation Jeu entre arrêt et gaine=play between stop&sheath Contact=key on , ralenti=idle , ressort=spring Réglage=adjuster, pas de jeu=no play, not tight The arrow show way of rotation Note : at idle the valves are on high and stay there as long as rpm do not go over 2000 , otherwise they will go on low and stay until you go over 7000 (see diagram page 20). On the JC22 Fr, the positions of these cables are reversed and you must control that the sequence is the same as shown above


The Piston Rings the rings must be changed every 7500 Miles , you can go up to 9500 but it is risky . In any event it is necessary to de-coke the top-engine at each time, also plan this : - 7500 Rings only (not to forget to locate the size of barrel ABCDE) running in 200 miles - 15000 piston-rings (with the size of the barrel) running in 300 miles - 22500 all top-engine running in 500 miles At each operation it is necessary for you to change: Piston pin, small end bearing, clips, base cylinder seal, cylinder head gasket, axis valves seal. There are 2 types of piston : those of JC20 have the 2nd segment with a groove expander, the JC22 do not have, the two models can be interchanged but you cannot put rings from JC20 on a piston JC22 or vice versa. with regard to the rings, they be "locate" as for their position high-low either it there be a mark, either they be of form trapezoidal and it need the part sloping to the top (in general one can not them put with back) and for the direction of assembly of piston it there be in theory a arrow, but if it have disappear the closing of rings face back of bike Note : The top face of piston & the cylinder head chamber must be polished as a mirror WARNING: The nut of the valves axis has a step on the left, it unscrews clockwise

THE IGNITION BUG Ignition is composed of a coil with a large black wire on which is screwed a cap, of a CDI unit, of a pair of charging coil in the alternator (about 200V AC), of a impulse coil. What do I have to do if I am broken down? Initially test Front system: check that your plug cap is engaged completely. Watch your plug, if it’s fatty of gasoline you’ve got an ignition problem .A small test will be easy: Put the plug on the cap and flat pose it on the cylinder head, give 2-3 blows of starter 1) If you see sparks on the plug, your ignition seems ok, probably a question of timing (see impulse coil). 2) if not, test in the order the coil and then the alternator. 3) If everything ok your CDI is probably worn , prior of changing it , check your wiring and the connectors Note : the spark is normally blue , if it’s yellow-red it could be the sign of low charging by the alternator checking the coil You need an ohmmeter of good quality and preferably digital (more precise). A coil is an autotransformer with a primary (wire black/yellow and green) and a secondary (the large black wire with the cap) - Primary 0.1 - 0.3 Ohms - Secondary with the cap 6500 to 9700 Ohms (bottom inside and a terminal on the coil) - Secondary without the cap 2700 to 3500 Ohms (unscrew the cap, test middle black and terminal) The cap has a value ranging between 3000 and 7000 Ohms and to test it is enough to make the 2 measurements above, if you to replace it buy one Bent. Checking alternator The measurement of the stator 0.7 Ohms between each yellow (they are coils production of current) and 80 to 180 Ohms between red/black and green (charging coils of CDI). For information: each yellow wire corresponds to 3 coils (poles) in series, the 3 wire yellow are connected in Y as in a three-phase electric system, this is why if you test between 2 yellows you has 6 coils in series (either 6 poles). The stator thus has 9 small poles (3x3) + 2 large poles (CDI charging with 2 reels in series). Checking impulse coil ignition is timed by a small coil which creates the releasing current of the CDI THYRISTOR door, this coil has 2 wires blue and green/white , the wire of exit on the alternator are located close to wire of exit of the load. the ohmmeter must indicate to you between 180 and 280 Ohms.

N1 N2 N3 N4

nut 28x150-17.5 ref Peugeot 331817 (£5) steel pipe internal diameter 350 length 550 fat washer (even 2) inside 12 outside 36-40 nut 10x150 full height or more

Bolt 10x150 length 750

cheers to our mate YOYO if soldering are not very good , doing it was not obvious and finding the right nut too . Note : the tool sold by Honda cost £45 HONDA ref : 07KMCHE00100 Soudures = electric soldering 10x150 means : diameter 10 , thread size 150/100 mm all size are in mm

FAIRING REPAIRS The plastic is welded with difficulty. For a long slit, to make points all the 2cms while dissolving the plastic using a soldering iron and to sandpaper the bumps created polyester can go but with use that is not due. There are various products of repair often rather expensive. For the specific products here an American site : http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/search/search.aspx?keywords=plastic+repair UK site : http://www.plastex-uk.com/

CHAIN & SPROCKETS KITS WHICH SIZE TO CHOOSE ? With origin the JC20 are equipped with wheels of 18" with front of 13 and rear of 35 the JC22 " "" " " 17"with front of 14 and rear of 36 the front are accessible into 13-14-15 teeth and the rear from 34 to 44 . Taking off a tooth in the front will make you lose 8mph on top-speed but you will gain in nervousness, adding a tooth will gain 8mph on top speed and lose in nervousness. adding a tooth to the rear will make you lose 3mph and gain in nervousness and vice versa .If you have evil to hold your 6th (9500-9800 turns) put a lower front and if you are in put 1 tooth more at the back, if you are below 9500 turns to control your compression, it’s may be time to change rings and decoke.




It is simply a question of increasing the elbow of air intake, because this elbow guides the air in box but also it attenuates the noise of the aspiration. If you make a direct opening in the base beside the elbow the result is a sucking noise which is increased with RPM , so a broader elbow will partly avoid this . Only problem: with what and of how much can I do it ? I thought of something simple and that costs peanuts: electric sheath accordion vulgarly called "CINTRO". to use CINTRO from 14 to 16 interior , bores 2 holes with the diameter of the CINTRO used (is needed that the passage of the sheath forces a little), drill these holes touching, then one cuts 2 ends (to heat by the hair drier if it is too stiff) which one forms in elbow with 90° angle , inserts them in the holes until the interior part arrives at the short-nap cloth of the foam filter without crushing it. There is not any more but to give the lid (even if that forces a little because this sheath is not very flexible) and it is good! One turns over the box to air and one cuts the surplus of cintro to maximum 1cm then a silicone blow to block and to isolate. I must say that I am rather satisfied with the result, little noise and especially more air available!

WHICH TYRES To buy tender gums: faster wear but real adherence!!! To throw: genuine Dunlop ArrowMax MT-75 Are good: Dunlop SportMax Bridgestone BT-45 Battlax and BT-39 Michelin Sporty Pirelli Sport Demon Balancing: required for the front wheel, optional for the rear wheel (that cannot be bad)

WORKING ON BRAKES The price difference being marginal, I advise you to fit genuine pads, at least we have no surprise on the quality. 3 things to be reminded : 1) Avoid putting plaques with a deformed disk (less efficiency and premature wear pads) 2) deglaze the surfaces of friction (make some lines crossed with a point 3) run in your pads during around 20 miles brake liquid replacement - Undo the cover plate of the reserve and dismantle the calliper - push back the pistons and take off pads - undo the joint pipe-caliper over a bowl, all the liquid is going to leave - fit back the joint without tightening - fill up the reserve - when the liquid goes out of the banjo, tighten it fermly - clean oil everywhere and put back pads and calliper Air draining The reserve level must be full and it’s necessary to unblock the bleeding bolt , because it’s a conical closure and you will have problems to unscrew when draining . best tool is an eye-spanner hexagonal, it’s the only one which wont cause any damage , you may fit a plastic tube on top avoiding any splash everywhere 1) Pump several times with the handle (or pedal for rear) 2) stay pressed and do not release 3) open bleeding bolt, some liquid or air will go off 4) tighten the bleeding bolt normally without forcing 5) release the handle , every 3 times control liquid level and begin again in 1 when the handle is hard , no air bubbling last time , block bolt seriously and complete level , fit cover

BRAKE SWITCH Front switch It’s sited under the brake liquid reserve and is operated by a united finger of the handle In case of not functioning, to check that it is not connection problem . Disconnect the 2 wires, contact key on then connect wires together, if back light ignites, your switch is worn , otherwise you must investigate bug in the wiring . Ref switch 35340 MM5 600 ( ~£15 ) Rear switch It’s sited on the frame above the heel of the pedal. it has a spring and its position is adjustable simply by screwing or unscrewing the 2 nuts. same action as above . if it is OK, put the length at shortest and if that does not ignite you will have to change the switch , if not adjust length. ref. switch 35350 MT4 000 ( ~£14)


rubber at exit of the oil bottle several owners had a leak due to a cracked item .replace it preventively . As it is necessary to recover remaining oil in the bottle, buy this part and at next filling bottle , change it

ref.: 55107

KBS 900 (cost peanuts) -

Ignition terminals

Oxidation of the coil and rev counter feed are very sensitive to oxidation. there it is

necessary for you thus to clean them, tighten them and put a little grease for battery lead connections. the terminals of the CDI could slackened (those exiting the loom) but can be tightened using tweezers. when you have intermittent bugs with your ignition , think there in priority -

Fuse and fuse holder are subject to the same disease (oxidation) the ends are vulnerable because holder is not waterproof . clean, tighten , grease ends before the plastic. you may also fit aftermarket model accepting large wire and 15Ampères fuses . certain models to be screwed are perfect


Cold starts are difficult 99% of cases is because your slow jet is too small, replace by a 4 to 6 points bigger . engine must start in 1s choke on & no acceleration. if this problem persists it is necessary for you to think about a good carb cleaning, tank (tap), air filter foam & sparkplug change


Bike seems starving remember that the fuel valve works as a loo flush. a awl connected to the floats closes the fuel line when the chamber level is reached. if this level is too low you have this problem ,also if, because of a dirt, the awl is stocked close. in general a good cleaning erase the problem but you can try to knock the carburettor side with a plastic mallet .


Carb overflow same as above with a stocked fuel valve in open position or the float chamber adjusted too high . first try the plastic mallet


Engine starts OK but dies when hot if your engine is tuned normally it is a characteristic of a faulty choke which does not return correctly when pushed down . the piston choke has a rubber curvature which closes a hole when the choke is pushed back. if it does not fully return this hole is not stopped and all the mixture is distorted. either the pull knob is clogged or it makes a too tight turn. to clean it, dismount it as well as the piston


My idle is too high and I am not able to lower it once again it is a cable problem . the breakdown can have 2 origins. either the cable starts to split (at handle in general) or there is no play at the throttle entry . if no adjuster exist you can change your throttle cover with adjuster (see DELLORTO 28PHBH/FD ) . in case of splitting cable you must replace it . this cable starts from the handle goes to a relay where starts 2 bits : 1 goes to the throttle the other to the oil pump . eventually check for any sharp bends and if you dismount or replace it’s necessary to adjust your oil pump


My brake handle squeek handle axis is seized up. dismount, clean , use graphite grease My brakes react slowly rubber pipes tired, to replace or fit reinforced models (expensive) My front brakes heat and make noise generally comes from a defective Master-cylinder. front piston of brake can be changed easily : take off dust seal , with special clips pliers remove the clips then the piston comes out. replacement kit : reference 45530 KB9 960 (approximately £18)


Brake pads are worn very quickly uneven discs or seized up calliper pistons. in this case dismount the pistons, clean with waterproof sandpaper 600 with oil and change the seals ref. 06451 KBS 405 (2 seals per piston approximately £16 )

Bulbs go off quickly the vibrations are your enemy, most fragile bulbs are headlights and rear . this is why, except for the indicators I recommend a bulbs change with LEDs (see further). the best headlight are quartz halogen 35/35W (I have had mine for more than 2 years) . you must also check the charging voltage. the voltage is normally 13,2V at idling and of 14,2V at 5500 RPM & over. the battery which is used as plug must be in good condition (see higher how to control it)

BULBS Winkers -

For aftermarket , buy only models where you can fit 10W bulbs or LED with resistor Most of have 21 or 23W bulbs which require to change the relay and remember that the generator has a limited power so some drawbacks can appear (voltage falls , bad battery charging) Now you can fit leds winker with a change of the relay (see led sites) Headlights power max 35W otherwise unit worn within 15 days, best are Halogen 35/35W Ba20d socket



http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm quartz anti-vibrations & 50% brighter. £22 for 2 (shipping included) . A rebate will be apply if you buy 10 or more (grouping order with mates) http://beedspeed.com/advanced_search_result.php? search_in_description=1&inc_subcat=1&keywords=ba20d&categories_id=&osCsid=32e30bb4b47a6eb d32b4ed22cc4a9c3b model to select : price £7.99 or £6.99 clear .You’ve got also semi-halogen (some picts are not right but models are OK) the black side of these bulbs is that the sockets are made with very soft grey plastic but some other bikes (don’t ask me) were fitted with these connectors made with a different material , the best is bakelite generally they are colour black or sand

Led bulbs These bulbs have low consumption, indestructible,colour available . Use for : back light ,side light and clocks see details page 19

MODIFYING MY CLOCKS The discs of the meters are only plexiglass on which the graduations are painted , a German manufacturer do add-on with thick plastic films http://www.wunschtacho.de/ http://cgi.ebay.fr/Honda-NSR-125-TACHOSCHEIBEN-tachoTachofolien_W0QQitemZ150174991017QQihZ005QQcategoryZ49827QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem Choice of several aspect (colours , mph, Kms/H) .Set of 3 : 28 euros shipping included Important : these films must be cut out and all holes drilled at the same dimensions before fitting You can change the bulbs with blue led : set of 4 28 euros (shipping inc) http://www.motorrad-bach.de/ Taking off the clocks - except deposit the screws of careenage, each side, lowest (the careenage swivels downwards) - take off mirrors, go and face the windshield, seize the air pipes, make them escaping their entries and pull the whole block for 4” then disconnect the cable from meter - disconnect the auxiliary beam right and the indicators, remove the front unit - remove the 2 fastening screws of the plate support of the meters - disconnect the 2 connectors on the frame (they have a blocking with strip and are fixed rather hard) Dismantling the clocks The foam part wrapping the rev counter and the gauge of temperature is a hub cap (if one can call it as that) held by 3 plastic bits (in fact is not used for nothing!) - undo the 4 fastening screws of the back plastic cap and to remove it - undo the 3 nuts of the plate and pull out lightings dials nicely (they are well tightened) - turn over the meter and to remove the frontage

dismantling needles & dials The needle rest are plastic, to withdraw them with a grip with fine nozzles, warning nevertheless it is fragile. Harder are the needles to be withdrawn, use a small tart fork (see picture) and it is necessary to force to withdraw them (to be noted that the needle of the thermometer comes with its axis). When the needles are removed undo the 2 screws which hold each plate, to remove painting with waterproof sandpaper size 400 or 600 until it’s clear , apply then 2 or 3 small points of superglue and sticks the new dials, then fit the screws and the needle rest (small point of adhesive). Refit the speedo needle but not the 2 others Refitting the needles and finishing Go on the bike and fit the 2 connectors (not necessary to fit fully) , key on (do not start), place the needle of the rev counter against the rest and made a light pressure to insert it. For the temperature it is more delicate, it should be fixed about 2 mm off the rest , because at -15° Celcius it will come against the rest . Push down very slightly and look at where it is stabilized, rectify if necessary then when it is OK apply a good pressure but not too strong . Key off, disconnect the connectors and will finish reassembling your meters. FOOT-NOTE: avoid moisture otherwise you will have mist on your dials, clean the glass with alcohol

My forks

silver dials, blue leds


This paste is really the ideal for all your seals, practises, not need to put slices of bread of them, is preserved a long time (if the tube is well stopped). Resist 180° and +, use for all the oil seals, water and mechanics and in particular the connections admission. It does not stick the parts and is effective with tightening. It can even ensure the sealing of a cylinder head gasket. It can slow down a pin of cylinder head at the time of a disassembling, and on this subject too extremely do not tighten your pins of cylinder head if not station to the cracks! Thus your pins must be assembled with a paste-brake without excessive tightening, this paste is different from the paste-joint because it behaves a little as of SINTOFER i.e. it hardens and becomes very hard to remove. Thus never of excess! But not to forget!!!

VARIOUS GREASING & OILING THE OIL PUMP At the time of a de-carbonizing and during running in you can fix the pump with 1mm above its normal reference mark that will help your running in and will avoid disasters .It will happens too with a weak mixture too. Of course, after finished running in, it will be necessary to re-set at its optimum adjustment. With this intention consult the handbook of workshop section 2 figure 4. THE CABLES The moisture which infiltrates in the cables can cause serious troubles. Imagine: it is -6° C, after having made heat your engine, a little top-speed and when you want to decelerate impossible to do it , there it is not too serious, that would it have occurred in the event of emergency braking?... a big bang Before each winter dismount your right handle and introduce oil (with a oil-can or a spray) between the sheath and the cable by making it go and come manually, and do not be afraid to put some! Idem for the cable of clutch, it should also be dismounted handle to lubricate. Do not forget to take off the axis of front break handle, clean it , grease it (graphitic grease) and re-fit THE GEAR BOX DRAINER BOLT When you change gear box oil, the metallic dust comes out and a bit get stock in the bolt thread. Sometimes when you re-fit the bolt it’s difficult. Make a very simple tool, a tap 8x125, 4-5 inches steel rod (diameter 7) an other 2-3 inches soldered in “T” with stainless (electric ark) and then solder the tap at the end of the “T”; clean excess of soldering. Turn the tap inside the engine for 5-6 turn, if it’s hard, do not force too much, take it off, clean it and re-do it. The bolt will fit perfectly. THE FRONT FORKS To change the oil of its forks must be done every 5000 miles or every 2 years. HONDA recommends using ATF 10, personally I advise you to adapt oil to your weight or the weight that your motor bike is accustomed to transporting (duet by ex.). Up to 9 stones it is OK, up to 13 stones use 15 and beyond use 20. That will avoid you "typing" on the bumps or while descending the pavements. Also considering the seals do not cost a fortune, change them on this occasion. QSP by fork 280 CC

A DOUBLE BUBBLE SCREEN Cheaper than a genuine one , it offers a better air protection and a better look (103 euros options of colours) http://www.bullster.com/fr/catalogue-produit.php?id=2031&typerecherche=moto


MOTOR : Black & Black/white POTENTIOMETER : White/red & Green/blue

cursor : light green

the servo is composed by a direct courant motor (white & black/white) , a reducer , a pulley (you see it on the right side of the bike under the tank) and a potentiometer fitted on it’s axel . the servo move left or right function of the voltage and obviously of the RPM . the potentiometer ,fed under 8 volts ,gives on the cursor a certain voltage ,function of it’s position ,showing the image of the valves position . for exemple the lowest is 2.2 volts , the highest is 5.25 Volts . this voltage is returned to the control box which control if the right position has been reached . you have 2 connectors on the control box , one with 4 wires and one with 3 wires plus a loose wire (light green) . on the 3 connector one is a white/red which is the number of impulses coming from the CDI to tell the control box at which rpm you are . if the engine is running you’ve this info , but as I said nothing else is related with the CDI

consequently if you’ve a loose contact on this wire or a damaged CDI the info will not come out and the servo will not move . HOW WORKS THE CDI The CDI is composed by a condenser charged under 200 volts AC provided by the 2 big poles of the alternator , a thyristor which is open by impulse coming from the small coil on the alternator (wires blue and green/white) . during a rev the condenser charge , then when the small coil produce the impulse , the thyristor opens and the condenser discharges in the ignition coil . a part of the condenser goes to the counter revs to feed it . the CDI adjust the ignition advance function of the revs , so it’s easy electronically to fix le max level of advance . What’s the advance : more your engine runs at high speed and more you need to have the ignition earlier because of the time taken to burn the mixture . actually on CI639 the advance is limited at 9800 rpm , on CI626 it’s 12500 rpm . Also the diagram of advance is more calculated on high rpm for the CI626 and the engine goes up more smoothly . Wires allocation : a) 4 wires connector - blue impulses from auxiliary coil - green ground - black/yellow spark & rev counter feed - red/white RPM info to RC/valve control unit b) 2 wires connector - black/red Capacity charge from alternator stator - Black/white Key & Kill switch c) 1 wire round terminal Green/white security stand

RC VALVES CONTROL UNIT (31810 KBS 621 France) Marked TV-124

HI bridé ……………………..Valves opening restriction Cont …………………………key ON Ouverture................................level of opening Régime ………………………engine speed Trs/min.....................................RPM

31810 KBS 900 (UK & IT) Marked TV-78

The thick line shows the level of the valves opening and the voltage provided by the control unit You can see on the French one that the valves are fully open at idle but will open only 70% at 7500 rpm The UK model is open 95% at idle and will open 95% at 7500 rpm

Diagrams made by DAVNAV with ALAINS cooperation

FITTING A CARBURETTOR SIZE 34 Intake pipe tyga-performance http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?currency=EUR&cPath=71_22&products_id=972 to fit the carb on the pipe , put the rubber in boiling water , sligthly oil carb entry and use strength silicone 45° bend 65mm http://www.rp-motorsport.de/turbolader/turbolader-samco-schlaeuche.htm how to fit to remove the plastic pipe carb-airbox. to increase the hole at the new pipe diameter (~ 70 mm) , clean (to degrease) airbox hole . to fit the carb on the intake pipe (towards the engine). to cut out an end of the pipe silicone (to leave ~ 2 cm from the interior of the elbow). to assemble the silicone pipe (of with dimensions crossed) on the carb and to fix it. to stick inside the pipe on the airbox with silicone high temperature glue. to stick outside when it’s dry and to cut off inside everything extra

Bottom-left : foxeye model fitted with an intake pipe found at a car breaker (diameter 70mm) The others show how it fit with a JC20 (1989-1992) model . as you can see no difference in angle or diameter fitting . just remember that the foxeye has the pilot & idle screws on the right , earlier models are on the left .

1 T10 bleue 6leds + 3 T5 spark blue

signals T5 xenon white

2 T10 xenon white 6 leds

REPLACEMENT LEDS http://stores.ebay.fr/warden-jp2002_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQtZkm

A- 2pcs T10 W5W Wide Angle 6 LED (Spark Blue) Wedge Bulb 3,43€ B- 2pcs 501 Wide Angle 4 LED (Spark Blue) Dash Wedge Bulbs 2,60€

C- 2pcs 501 W5W Wide Angle 6 LED (White) Dash Wedge Bulbs 3,46€ D- 2pcs 158 168 194 T10 W5W 6 LED (Xenon White) Wedge Bulb 3,18€

E- 2pcs T5 Wide Angle LED (Spark Blue) Dash Wedge Bulb 1,27€

F- 2pcs T5 Wide Angle LED (Xenon White) Dash Wedge Bulb 1,27€

G- 2pcs 1157 Halo Refractor 35 LED (Red) Stop/Tail Bulb 7,06€ WHAT DO YOU NEED AND WHERE PUT THEM ? All the posted elements are sold by 2. it is also advised that you place a total order not to pay 5 times the carriage costs. For those which have funds of Noirs meters I advise you to choose in AMBER all the leds of colors. Lighting of the Pilot meters : 1xA or 1xB and 2xE Back edge 2xF Bi-wire 1xG Night lights headlights 1xC or 1xD (I like the software of the xenon) FOOT-NOTE - the indicator dashboard should not be replaced by led because your indicator will not function any more except if you have a special relay due that leds are diodes and work only in one way - it is necessary thus to check its direction before positioning it back, if it does not ignite to turn it of 180° - the profit of electric output is 18W in front and of 10+36W in the rear

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